IMPLEMENTING INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING AS A TOOL IN THE INDUSTRY

A dissertation submitted in partial Fulfillment of

the requirement for the award of Degree in

Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)

Submitted By
KARUNA SINGH

Under the Guidance of

MR.T.S PRAKASH

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology, (Mumbai)
 ABSTRACT

This is true today Millions of dollars are wasted each and every day in organization, through lack of
awareness of this need to constantly improve productivity. If there is no I.E. department in the industry
then it can face problems like Low operational performance as lot of non valuing added activities will
also be done , increased manufacturing cost , Fail to delivers high quality garments, Longer lead
times ,production efficiency will not be that efficient ,which the company expects .
This all will lead to low productivity for the garment .Therefore Industrial Engineering is one of the best
tool to tackle all these issues.

This project is on “Implementing Industrial Engineering as a tool in the industry”.

The company wants to Improve the sewing section, which is the most problematic area in the industry .
The problems were like Traditionally low productivity, longer production lead time, high rework , poor
line balancing ,attitude problem among operators, abseentism , no standard way of working .These
problems were addressed in this study by the implementation Industrial Engineering tools like Time study,
SAM , Target calculation, cycle time, operator efficiency, line efficiency ,creating proper layouts for the
sewing lines , Keeping a board to check Hourly production board, Making Operation Bulletin for every
style for the systematic working , Creating Time and action plan to track delay in any process . After
implementing these tools the changes can be observed the sewing line started working systematically, less
attitude problem, better productivity , Daily targets were achieved along with shorter throughput time for
the sewing section .

Keywords – Time study, SMV, SAM , Line Balancing , Operational bulletin , Layouts
 CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that this project report entitled “Implementing Industrial Engineering as a tool in the
industry” is based on my, Karuna Singh‟s original work, conducted under the guidance of Mr. T S Prakash
towards the partial fulfillment of the requirement for award of the Bachelor‟s Degree in Fashion
Technology (Apparel Production), of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai.

No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever borrowed has been duly
acknowledged.

Signature of Author

Signature of Guide
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This report has been prepared for the graduation project in partial fulfilment of the Bachelor‟s Degree in
Fashion Technology from National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai. The project on “Implement-
ing Industrial Engineering as a tool in the industry” has been conducted in XYZ Company . I have suc-
cessfully completed my project and compiled this report as the summary and the conclusion that has been
drawn from the graduation project experience.

I would like to thank Mr. T S Prakash, our faculty guide for constant encouragement and helping hand
whenever we needed, as well as our faculties Mr. Ajit Khare, Mrs. Kavita Pathare, Mr. Ranjan Saha for
their help in improving our project.

I am immensely grateful to the management of XYZ, especially to Mr. Munawwar Tamankar, Quality
Control manager , for his help and guidance throughout our project.
 INDEX
1.INTRODUCTION…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….6
2.NEED OF THE PROJECT …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………7
3. OBJECTIVES …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………8
3.1.SUB OBJECTIVES……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..…….........8
4. LITERATURE REVIEW………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..……..….9
4.1 CASE STUDY …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..………….13
4.2 RESEARCH PAPERS………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..……25
5. METHODOLOGY…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………27
5.1 DATA COLLECTION …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….……..27
5.2 TIME AND ACTION PLAN ……………………………………………………………………...…….30

6. RESULTS ……………………………………………………………….………………………………………………………………………………….…….….32
7. LIMITATIONS AND SCOPE……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….………….34
8. CONCLUSIONS………………………………………………………………………………………………………...….….35

9. APPENDICES
9.1Appendix 1
9.2 Appendix 2
9.3 Appendix 3
INTRODUCTION

Present techno economic scenario is marked by increasing competition in almost every sector of economy.
The expectation of the customers are on the rise and manufacturers have to design, and produce well in as
many variety as possible (concept of economics of scale is no more talked off) to cater to the demands of
the customers. Thus there is a challenge before the industries to manufacture goods of right quality and
quantity and at right time and at minimum cost for their survival and growth. This demands the increase in
productive efficiency of the organization. Industrial Engineering is going to play a pivotal role in
increasing productivity. Various industrial engineering techniques are used to analyze and improve the
work method, to eliminate waste and proper allocation and utilization of resources. Industrial engineering
is a profession in which a knowledge of mathematical and natural sciences gained by study, experience and
practice is applied with judgment to develop the ways to utilize economically the materials and other
natural resources and focus of nature for the benefit of mankind. American Institute of Industrial Engineers
(AIIE) defines Industrial Engineering as follows: Industrial Engineering is concerned with the design,
improvement and installation of integrated system of men, materials and equipment. It draws upon
specialized knowledge and skills in the mathematical, physical sciences together with the principles and
methods of engineering analysis and design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from
such systems.

The prime objective of industrial engineering is to increase the productivity by eliminating waste and non-
value adding (unproductive) operations and improving the effective utilization of resources .

In apparel industries sometimes it is difficult to identify the key areas and practices, which can be used to
improve the current system & situation in the processes. Delivering high quality garments at low cost in
shorter lead times are the major challenges faced by the apparel manufacturers .SMV and such like others
tools can be effectively applied to apparel industries for better production efficiency. Using this tool, it is
possible to map the current status and subsequently analyze to achieve better target. However, the work
provides some ways of improvement to increase the line efficiency by applying time study and line
balancing techniques. As a consequence, good line balancing with small stocks in the sewing line has to be
drawn up increase the efficiency and quality of production. Line balancing is very crucial in manufacturing
sector especially in apparel manufacturing industries. The line needs to balance so that the line has the
high value of efficiency. Higher value of line efficiency indicates that the line have the approximately
equal cycle time between operators along the line. Besides that, the workload between operators also
distributed equally which make the higher line efficiency and the target output can be achieved without
having overtime. Therefore, organizations of similar type can use the research outcomes as a knowledge
base to identify their problems and come up with suitable remedies.
. To deal with the recent problems & challenges industries have to improve production efficiency &
productivity; reduce lead time, ensuring proper quality requirements. There is no doubt that sewing section
in an apparel industry is the most momentous and teeming department that plays a vital role in the whole
firm. To improve the existing situation of this section and increasing productivity time study is a very
effective technique. In time study, Standard Minute Value (SMV) has been calculated for each operation or
job. Based on this technique each operators capacity is measured and balanced to eliminate the bottlenecks.
Here, by applying these techniques significant improvements in the sewing section have been achieved
such as SMV, man power, bottle neck, capacity achievable, production/hr, performance rating, balance %
and line efficiency.
NEED OF THE PROJECT

Higher productivity brings higher margin in a business. And increment in Production efficiency
level reduces garment manufacturing cost. Hence factory can make more profit through
productivity improvement.

The sewing section in a garment firm is a most problematic section as compared with other value chains .
Most of the time, failure to meet delivery time is because of the sewing section. Sewing operations (with
respect to cutting and finishing) demands high skill in machine handling as well as material handling and
more chances of producing defective products. So we have to give more attention to stitching tasks than
fabric cutting and other value chains of garment production.

Firstly, high WIP in traditional type of batch production is the major problem faced by industries. Due to
high WIP, the throughput time as well as rework level is very high. In some cases, even though the
operator has completed the sewing operations, the garment cannot be packed because of high WIP. Also,
the defective parts are hidden inside the batches and it is very difficult to clear them while completing the
final order quantity. This is the reason why garment professionals seem to work like fire fighters; because
they are always in hurry for searching the missing garment pieces all over the shop floor.

Secondly, in batch processing (Progressive Bundling system), flexibility towards the style change over
cannot be achieved easily; which is the current demand (Decreasing order size and increasing number of
style) of retail industry. To meet this requirement, production layout should be designed in such a way that
it should hold minimum WIP and should be flexible enough to the changing need of order.

Thirdly, in batch process, since the operators are given specific jobs, they know one or few more
operations only. Though he /she may have good skill and can work more efficiently on one (allocated job
only) operation; he /she cannot work immediately on some other operation. This is another need of today‟s
industry, because the fashion is changing frequently and the work force should be capable enough to cope
with this change. To achieve this operator should be multi-skilled; which can be served by regular training
and converting long assembly lines into small manufacturing cells.

Workload fluctuation and process balancing among operators is another problem in batch processing,
because one operator is given one operation at a time. So the operator who is performing easier and low
time consuming jobs can pile up a huge amount of WIP whereas in the critical operations (operations
which need more time and skill) there is lagging which causes unbalanced WIP between machines and the
work load. This research tries to address all these problems of garment industry by implementing lean
manufacturing tools in an apparel firm.
OBJECTIVE
To implement Industrial engineering as a tool in the industry

SUB OBJECTIVES

1) To create layout for sewing lines which includes KNITS line and WOVEN line ( Brand -Barbie).

2) To introduce new production system in the line i.e. Progressive Bundle System (PBS).

3) Conduct TIME STUDY FOR the respective lines.

4) To study the bottlenecks for the line.

5) Calculate operator efficiency, line efficiency, target, SAM or SMV ,cycle time for the lines.

6) Create Time and Action plan to avoid delays in processes.

LITERATURE REVIEW

The aim of IE department is to provide specialized services to production departments, such

as methods improvement, time study, and Job evaluation and merit rating and to head new
projects if required.

The basic objectives of Industrial Engineering are-:

1. Improving operating methods and controlling costs.

2. Reducing these costs through cost reduction programs.

Operational terms prior to project are as follows -:

Productivity is measured by achievement toward established goals based on relationships between inputs
and outputs . Generally in sewing section line balancing means allotment of operations or jobs based on
the objective of minimizing the throughput time as well as the work in process and thus increasing
productivity. In sewing room, the breakdown of the total work content of a garment into operations has
traditionally included long, medium and short operations, the actual length being influenced by the amount
of work content in the garment, predicted quantity of output of an individual style, and the number
employed in the company manufacturing it, with the consequent potential for specialization among its
operators and managers. In this case an operation was the amount of the work content of a garment that
was undertaken by one operator . An operation is one of the steps in a process that must be completed to
convert materials into a finished garment. An operation breakdown is a sequential list of all the operations
involved in cutting, sewing and finishing a garment, component or style.

Line lay out: A line lay out operates on the principle that each unit is produced exactly the same and those
operations are performed in a specified sequence. Work often flows from the back of the layout to the front
and from workstation to work station until the garment is completed. Line layout is most efficient with
long runs (high volume of identical products) when the sequence of operations and equipment does not
have to be changed frequently . Depending on the volume required, a plant may have several lines making
the same style or several lines each making different styles. Line layout does not necessarily mean each
m/c is different. Several operators and helpers may perform the same operation. The objective is steady
work flow through succeeding operations. If a style requires only one operator to hem the pockets and
three operators to set pockets in order to keep work in process moving smoothly, then engineers will build
that into the layout.

Advantages of line layout may be less work in process than a skill center configuration and less handling
between operations. This means faster throughput time and less buildup of parts between operations with
high quality.

Disadvantages of a line layout include potential bottlenecks (work buildup) and work load imbalance.
Each operation depends on the previous one, and downtime, absenteeism, and slow operators may
interrupt the work Flow.

To counteract these problems, some operators may need to cross-trained to perform more than one
operation, and substitute machines must be readily available for immediate replacement if equipment
breaks down. New trainees may be expected to meet production standards before being placed in a line
position. Failure to meet production schedules for whatever reason may create a need to reroute work, shift
personnel, or schedule to avoid further days . The managerial requirements of operation design in the PBU
relate to the need for operators to be highly trained on the specific tasks that form the sequence of
operations in the assembly of a particular garment style, and for the flow of work through these operators
to be tightly controlled and well balanced .

Scientific work station layout: The purpose of designing a good workstation layout is to minimize the
material handling time as much as possible. Thus you can reduce operation cycle time. Secondary benefit
of good workstation is operators can work at same pace without fatigue. When designing a workstation
layout don‟t forget to consider ergonomics. .

Improve line balancing: Purpose of balancing a line is to reduce operator‟s idle time or maximize
operator utilization. In a balanced line work will flow smoothly and no time will be lost in waiting for
work. At time of line setting select operators for the operation matching operator skill history and skill
required. Following this method you will select highly skilled operators for higher work content operations.
Once line is set conduct capacity study at a regular interval. Use pitch diagram method to find bottlenecks
inside the line. Once you start increasing operator utilization through line balancing you will get extra
pieces from the same resources in defined time.

Use work aids, attachments, guides, correct pressure foots and folders: These are some kinds of time
saving devises that facilitate operator to perform their work effectively with less effort. If work aids are
used effectively operation cycle time can be reduced many fold than existing cycle time. In new and small
factories where there is no experienced technical person (maintenance, IE personnel or production manag-
er) generally not aware about the usage and availability of work aids.

Continuous feeding to the sewing line: It is not a fault of production department if they did not get
cuttings to sew. All plans and efforts towards productivity will fail if line is not been fed continuously. “No
feeding or irregular feeding” is one of the top reasons for lower productivity in poorly managed factory.
Poor production plan, wrong selection product mix in seasons and ineffective cutting department are the
reasons that stop continuous feeding. Once operators get the rhythm, they should be given non-stop
feeding until style changeover to keep up the productivity. If you know there is unavailability of cutting in
near future then plan accordingly and don‟t call all operators for that duration.

Training for Line supervisors: Line supervisors are shop floor managers. So each supervisor must be
trained with fundamental management skills and communication skill. Still in most of the supervisors in
Indian factories are raised from tailors. They don‟t acquire technical qualification in supervising. But their
main job is providing instruction, transferring information. For which communication skill training is
required for supervisors.

Secondly, supervisor should understand the fundamental of industrial engineering like operation bulletin,
skill matrix, workstation layout, movement, capacity study and theoretical line balancing etc. If they
understood these, they can help engineers or work study boys to improve line performance. The above
training will bring changes in managing and controlling the lines and will improve labor productivity.

Training to sewing operators: Operators are main resources in the apparel manufacturing. They are most
valuable resource to the company. So, factory must work on developing operator skill where required.
“Training is not cost but an investment” said by many experts.

Production from an operator depends on his skill level to the task. A low skilled operator will consume
higher resources (time) and give less output. You will find quality related issues with low skilled and
untrained operators. As the skill level of the operators is increased through training lines output will
improve. Training does mean lot of time and money. Training should be given only on specific tasks that
will be performed by the operator.

Setting individual operator target: Instead of giving equal target to all operators working in a line, give
individual target as per operator's skill level and capacity. Set an achievable target for each operator so that
they would try to reach the target. This will help improving operator‟s individual efficiency. Use tricks for
increasing target step by step. Take care of the operators who are under target. They may need skill train-
ing.

Operator motivation: Operator‟s will is the most crucial part in productivity improvement. If they are
motivated, they will put enough efforts on the work. Employee motivation generally depends on various
factors like work culture, HR policies, bonus on extra effort or achieving target. In garment manufacturing
operator‟s motivation come through extra money. Operator motivation can be improve by sharing certain
percentage of you profit made from operator‟s extra effort. .

Progressive bundle system: The Progressive bundle system gets its name from the bundles of garment
parts that are moved sequentially from operation to operation. This system often referred to as the
traditional production system, has widely used by apparel manufacturers for several decades and still is
used today. The technical advisory committee of AAMA (1993) reports that 80% of apparel manufacturers
use bundle system. The committee also predicts that use of bundle systems would decrease as firms seeks
more flexibility in their production systems. A progressive bundle system may require a high volume of
work in process because of the number of units in the bundles and the large buffer of backup work that is
needed to ensure a continuous workflow for all operators .

Time Study: At ANSI in 1982 Institute of Industrial Engineers state time study as, "A work measurement
technique consisting of careful time measurement of the task with a time measuring instrument, adjusted
for any observed variance from normal effort or pace and to allow adequate time for such items as foreign
elements, unavoidable or machine delays, rest to overcome fatigue, and personal needs.” Time study is
most popular and used method for line balancing and solving bottlenecks. One problem of time study is
the Hawthorne Effect where it is found that employees change their behavior when they know that their
being measured .

Cycle time: Total time taken to do all works to complete one operation, i.e. time from pick up part of first
piece to next pick up of the next piece .

SAM (Standard allowed minute): The amount of time required to complete a specific job or operation
under existing condition, using the specified & standard method at a standard pace when there is plenty of
repetitive work .

Standard time = (Average observed time X Rating %) + Allowance%.

Allowance: Different types of allowances are allowed in apparel production floor. Such as personal time
allowance, Delay allowances, Fatigue allowances etc.

Balance: Balance is an important factor. In traditional performance measurement approach, the most
important goals of evaluation is performance measurement while modern approach has focused on
evaluated growth and development capacity . Peter Drucker in 1954 argued that one potential solution was
to introduce „‟balanced‟‟ sets of measures. Market standings, innovation, productivity, physical and
financial resources, profitability, manager performance and development, worker performance and attitude,
and public responsibility are appropriate performance criteria. Modern evaluation system results in
satisfaction improvement, efficiency improvement, and finally improvement in effectiveness of
organizational activities .

Bottleneck: A constraint for smooth flow of operation, limits the flow of production rate, productivity,
efficiency is usually termed as bottleneck.

Hourly operator capacity check: Employ work study personnel (if you don‟t have) and start checking
operator capacity hourly or bi-hourly. Compare actual operator‟s hourly production with their capacity. If
production is less then question them why? It helps in two ways – first, when operator‟s capacity is
checked at regular interval they will be under pressure. Secondly, work study personnel start thinking on
methods how cycle time can be reduced. Using the capacity data, you can move ahead in balancing the
line.
1 . CASE STUDY - Application of industrial engineering in Garments Sewing Floor .

This project is on “Application of Industrial Engineering In garments sewing floor”. Traditionally

operated garment industries are facing problems like

1. low productivity,
2. longer production lead time,
3. high rework and rejection,
4. poor line balancing,
5. low flexibility of style changeover

These problems were addressed in this study by the implementation of lean tools like cellular
manufacturing, single piece flow, work standardization, just in time production, etc.

After implementation of lean tools, results observed were highly encouraging. Some of the key benefits
entail production cycle time decreased by 8%, number of operators required to produce equal amount of
garment is decreased by 14%, rework level reduced by 80%, production lead time comes down to one hour
from two days, work in progress inventory stays at a maximum of 100 pieces from around 500 to 1500
pieces. Apart from these tangible benefits operator multi skilling as well as the flexibility of style
changeover has been improved. This study is conducted in the stitching section of a shirt manufacturing
company. Study includes time studies, the conversion of traditional batch production into single piece flow
and long assembly line into small work cells.

Techniques of Industrial Engineering :

Method study: To establish a standard method of performing a job or an operation after thorough analysis
of the jobs and to establish the layout of production facilities to have a uniform flow of material without
back tracking.

Time study (work measurement):This is a technique used to establish a standard time for a job or for an
operation.

Motion Economy: This is used to analyses the motions employed by the operators do the work. The prin-
ciples of motion economy and motion analysis are very useful in mass production or for short cycle repeti-
tive jobs.

Value Analysis: It ensures that no unnecessary costs are built into the product and it tries to provide the
required functions at the minimum cost. Hence, helps to enhance the worth of the product.

Production, Planning and Control: This includes the planning for the resources (like men, materials and
machine) proper scheduling and controlling production activities to ensure the right quantity, quality of
product at predetermined time and pre-established cost.

Job Evaluation: This is a technique which is used to determine the relative worth of jobs of the organiza-
tion to aid in matching jobs and personnel and to arrive at sound wage policy.

Ergonomics (Human Engineering):It is concerned with study of relationship between man and his work-
ing conditions to minimize mental and physical stress. It is concerned with man-machine system.
Functions of I.E. Engineer-:

Method Study: Space environment, Equipment, Machine attachment, Element study, Effective and inef-
fective time segregation, Handling and movement, Contingency, Improve worker performance, Find better
way of work, Reduce ineffective time and Increasing needling time, Selling better method to others.

Work Measurement: Cycle check, Observed time, and SMV, Production study, Time study, setting time
standard and sampling.

Breakdown and Layout: Operation breakdown, Time setting, Process sequence, tight& loose flow, In-
centive or No incentive layout, Operation & workers selection.

Calculation: Feeding time, Produced time, Efficiency, Target setting, productivity gap, Individual per-
formance and capacity, Potential pieces, Required production days/hours/workers, Accuracy & confident
level, Ratio, Load range, Sewing time, Effective time, SMV.

SMV and Production Plan: SMV estimation and update production plan.

Incentive Package: Analysis and control production plan as higher performance level.

Reporting: Efficiency, Performance, Capacity, Production statement, Earning statement, Comparison,

Factory/line capacity, Incentive calculation and management key information as required.

Keeping History: Standard data, Product, Earning, Efficiency, Performance, Progression, Target and tar-
get efficiency analysis.

Motivation: Training, Job facilities, Life standardization and techniques presentation.

Standard Time and Target Setting -:

Many companies do not use standard time systems; target setting is based on guesswork and experience.
Establishment of Standard times and the development of the best method to manufacture is vitally impor-
tant to improve productivity. Every company that wishes to compete in the future must realize this.

Method Analysis -:

Most of the companies are using poor methods, operators are left to establish best way to do the job, de-
cide on the number of bursts of stitching, folding and unfolding of parts, unnecessary matching and addi-
tional handling, all of these motions add to the time it takes to manufacture the garment and should be
eliminated. Method study can be implemented in any type of production system whether it is in-house or
on a contract basis. Proper method analysis can improve productivity by at least 15%.
Workplace-:

The management wants to fit as many machines in the factory as possible, reducing the scope for methods
improvement. The space between machines is insufficient in many cases.

A good workplace layout will eliminate unnecessary motions and fatigue resulting in substantial increase
in the efficiency of the operator.
Just look at the picture alongside and think how efficiently you will be able to work 8 hours a day sitting in
that posture.

Operation Sequence -:

Some of the production departments work without a properly planned or written operation sequence. This
is a critical step in garment production and a mistake or negligence at this stage can result into huge losses
later in terms of operator time, work content and quality.
Work Aids and Attachments-:

Use of work aids and attachments is insufficient. Many new and inexpensive attachments and folders are
being continuously developed, it is vital that these developments are known to ensure a program of
constant improvement. Many new and inexpensive attachments and folders are being continuously
developed, it is vital that these developments are known to ensure a program of constant improvement.

Operator Monitoring -:

Most of the companies do not have the means to establish their performance against standard, so they have
no idea where they stand. There are no proper measurements so their efficiency levels are at best a guess, it
is impossible to understand how they will be able to continue to compete unless they have proper controls
in place, and have established productivity improvement programs to move forward in the future.

Cycle Checks -:

A simple technique aimed at establishing operator potential against their actual performance, this can be
done by relatively inexperienced work study personnel and is a great aid to factory performance
improvement. None of the companies perform cycle checks. The chart below shows the comparison
between factories in Group A (with work study department) and Group B (without work study department)
on various aspects of apparel production.
Looking at the comparison shown below it is obvious that group A factories are more productive than the
group B factories. This fact is further strengthened when the overall factory survey results are compared.
The factories in group A have a combined score of 61% for overall performance whereas factories in
group B achieved a score of only 48%.

Work-study is the need of the hour and it is high time that the industry stalwarts understand its importance
and its contribution to profitability.

Calculation for the machine requirement in a line-:

Follow the following steps to estimate how many machines and what types of machines you need to make
your garment in an assembly line. The primary information you need to calculate number of machines are
–

1) Daily production target –it means how many pieces you want to stitch per day.
2) Number of hours in a shift –How many hours you plan to work each day
3) SMV of each operation –Standard minutes for each operation
4) Present efficiency of the factory (in case you don‟t aware about present factory efficiency, use 50% ef-
ficiency). Efficiency is required because production will depends on how efficiently workers may do their
job.

Step 1: Operation breakdown –Select a garment for which you want to calculate machine requirement.
Analysis the operations required to sew the garment and list down operations in a spread sheet in a se-
quence. For example, take operation break down of a Crew neck Tee.

Step 2: Identify machine type –Observe what stitch class has been used in the operations and according
to those select machines against each operation.

Step 3: SMV of each operation –write down SMV or standard minutes at right column of machine type.
SMV is the most important part for calculating machine requirement. You can use SAM of each operation
from your database. If you don‟t have database for standard minutes then calculate.

Step 4: Calculate Theoretical machine requirement –Set your production target for the day (8 hours
shift). Example-400 pieces per line. Use present efficiency level of the factory. And now, calculate ma-
chine requirement using the following formula. It is called as calculated machine number. Because formu-
la gives you fraction of machine but in real you can‟t able to use fraction of machine.

= (Target quantity in pieces* individual operation SMV)/ (8 hrs.*60 minutes*desired efficiency)

= (A*C)/ (B*60*D)

Step 5: Physical machine requirement –Now simply round off the machine number. Or you can club
operations those use similar machine class. To do operation "Serge margin" half machine is required and
the operation "sew side seam with label" required 1.4 machines. So can use first 4TOL machine to do the
second job. Hence you can reduce the machine number and increase machine utilization.
Example: Operation bulletin for Tee Shirt (Crew Neck)

Machine requirement Summary:

Single Needle Lock Stitch (SNLS): 2 No.

Four thread Over lock machine (4TOL): 4 No.
Three thread Flat lock machine (3TFL): 3 No.
Sewing Process Flow Chart for Crew neck T-Shirt-:

It is always easier to understand a picture than just description. How to make a T-shirt can be explained
many times but students learnt it completely when they see it in the production floor. A process flow chart
gives them the logic how operations follow sequence one after another.

A sewing process flow chart has been depicted in the following figure to guide learners how a T shirt is
being made in a bulk production system. It is assumed that T shirt has neck tape (self-biastape). The
process flow is also showing the sequence of operations that is generally being followed. Some factory
may have a slightly varied sequence.

A crew neck T shirt has six components –Front, Back, Neck rib or Collar, Neck tape and two sleeves. In
the figure, on the top four sections of the garment component have been shown. The arrows show the flow
of operations and inside the red circles operation sequence number and name of the operations has been
written.

Sewing Process flow for T-Shirt:

Garments Production and Efficiency Calculation-:

To estimate production following information is necessary.

1) Standard allowed minutes (SAM) of the garment. It means how much time is required to make one
complete garment including allowances.

2) How many operators are working in the line?

3) How many hours line will work in a day?

4) Average Line efficiency level?

5) Total break time for lunch and tea.

Formula for production estimation -:

Daily production = Total man minutes available in a day/SAM * Average Line efficiency

Total available man-minutes =Total no. of operators X Working hours in a day X 60

Suppose, SAM of the garment is 20 minutes, 30 operators line, works 8 hours shift day. Line works at av-
erage 50% efficiency. Operators get total 45 minutes for lunch and tea break.

So, Total available man minutes = 30 X (8 X 60 –45) = 13050 minutes

Daily estimated production = 13050 /20 * 50% = 326 pieces

You can expect above output from that line if everything is gone well. You can see the production of a line
is directly proportional to the line efficiency; no. of operators and working hours. And production is re-
verse proportional to the garment SAM. If efficiency of a line increases you can expect higher production.
Similarly if SAM of style reduces at that also you can expect higher output.

Calculate SAM Or SMV Of a Garment -:

SAM or Standard Allowed Minute is used to measure task or work content of a garment.

There are two methods for calculating -:

Method 1-Using synthetic Data

Method 2 -Through Time Study

Step 1:Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM.

Step 2:Take one stop watch. Stand by side of the operator. Capture cycle time for that operation. (cycle
time –total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation, i.e. time from pick up part of first
piece to next pick up of the next piece). Do time study for consecutive five cycles. Discard if found ab-
normal time in any cycle. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time you got from time study is called cycle
time. To convert this cycle time into basic time you have to multiply cycle time with operator performance
rating.
[Basic Time = Cycle Time X performance Rating]

Step 3:Performance rating. Now you have to rate the operator at what performance level he was doing the
job seeing his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is 80%. Suppose cycle
time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes

Step 4:Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal
allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time.
Now you got Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes.

Calculate efficiency of a production batch or line -:

Like individual operator efficiency, efficiency of a production line or batch or section is important for a
factory. Daily line efficiency shows the line performance. To calculate efficiency of a line for a day, you
will need following data (information) from the line supervisor or line recorder.

1. Number of operators –how many operators worked in the line in a day

2. Working hours (Regular and overtime hours) –how many hours each of the operators worked or how
many hours the line run in a day

3. Production in pieces –How many pieces are produced or total line output at the end of the day

4. Garment SAM –What is exact standard minute of the style (garment)

Once you have above data you have to calculate following using above information –:

1. Total minutes produced by the line: To get total produced minutes multiply production pieces by SAM

2. Total minutes attended by the all operators in the line: Multiply number of operators by daily working
hours.

Now, calculate line efficiency using following formula:

Line efficiency = Total minutes produced by the line/total minutes attended by all operators For example,
refer following table. Data calculation formula has been given on the header row of the table.
LINE EFFICIENCY

The Concept of Operator's Performance Rating -:

Definition of Performance Rating :

Rating is a subjective comparison of any condition or activity to a benchmark, based upon our experience.
While the mechanics of time study record the time a task did take, applying a rating will determine the
time a task should take.

Calculate Operator Worker efficiency -:

In apparel manufacturing, skills and expertise of a sewing operator is being presented in “Efficiency” term.
An operator with higher efficiency produces more garments than an operator with lower efficiency in the
same time frame. When operators work with higher efficiency, manufacturing cost of the factory goes
down.

Secondly, factory capacity is estimated according to the operator efficiency or line efficiency. Hence, effi-
ciency is one of the mostly used performance measuring tools. So how do you calculate operator efficien-
cy in factory? To calculate operator efficiency you will be needed standard minutes (SAM) of the garment
and operations your operator is making. Use following formula and calculate operator efficiency.
Efficiency calculation formula:

Efficiency (%) = [Total minute produced by an operator/Total minute attended by him *100]
Where,
Total minutes produced = Total pieces made by an operator X SAM of the operation [minutes]

Total minutes attended = Total hours worked on the machine X 60 [minutes]

Example: An operator was doing an operation of SAM 0.50 minutes. In an 8 hours shift day he produces
400 pieces. So according to the efficiency calculating formula, that operator‟s overall efficiency
= (400 x 0.50) / (8 X 60)*100%
= 200/480*100%
= 41.67%

From the above case study I concluded the Industry have used Industrial Engineering as a tool in
their industries have experienced-:

1) Improvement in operational performance through eliminating waste and non value added steps
2) Reduces manufacturing cost
3) Delivers high quality garments
4) Shorter lead times
5) Increases production efficiency
6) Reduced manpower
7)Reduced reworks
2) Research paper - Improving Sewing Section Efficiency through Utilization of Worker Capacity
by Time Study Technique

This paper represents the use of some tools and techniques for improving apparel sewing section efficiency
throughout the production process. Now a day‟s apparel manufacturing industries are trying to develop
their current production system and situation and continuously looking for new production tools and
techniques in order to keep swiftness with the rapid changes of trend in consumers of apparel products.

To deal with the recent problems & challenges industries have to improve production efficiency &
productivity; reduce lead time, ensuring proper quality requirements.

There is no doubt that sewing section in an apparel industry is the most momentous and teeming
department that plays a vital role in the whole firm.

To improve the existing situation of this section and increasing productivity time study is a very effective
technique. In time study, Standard Minute Value (SMV) has been calculated for each operation or job.
Based on this technique each operators capacity is measured and balanced to eliminate the bottlenecks.
Here, by applying these techniques significant improvements in the sewing section have been achieved
such as SMV, man power, bottle neck, capacity achievable, production/hr, performance rating, balance %
and line efficiency. The findings can be extended to similar apparel industries in future.

From the above case study I concluded that the Industry have used tools of I.E. with its help they
were able to achieve –

1) Bottlenecks were reduced from the sewing line

2) Sewing efficiency was increased
3) SMV was reduced to some extend
4) Manpower was reduced
5) Production was increased through utilization of worker capacity that ultimately leads to increase
the efficiency.

3) Research paper - Application Of Industrial Engineering Technique For Better Productivity In

Garments Production

The paper comparing the productivity and efficiency before and after applying the Industrial engineering
technique. This is true today Millions of dollars are wasted each and every day in organization, through
lack of awareness of this need to constantly improve productivity. Most of it can be stopped.

By using method, time, capacity and production study, it is possible to improve productivity while
reducing wastage.

Two important attributes have been considered, one is possible standard method for each process and
another is considerable time.

Time study took to record the actual individual capacity of each worker. The time has been recorded to
make each process for each and every worker to find out the optimum number of operator and helper, type
of machines, basic and standard pitch time and individual capacity. To find out the (standard minute value)
S.M.V, process wise capacity has been calculate.
Advantages they received after implementing tools of I.E. are as follows -:

1. Labors of all levels, i.e., unskilled, skilled, semi-skilled labors, are involved in this
system where the operations are broken into small simple operation. Hence the cost of labor
is very cheap.

2. The quantity of each component is checked during the individual operation itself, so
the quality is good.

3. The components are moved in bundles from one operation to next operation, so there is
less chance for confusion like, lot mix-up, shade variation, size variation, etc.

4. Specialization and rhythm of operation increases productivity.

5. As the WIP is high in this system, it is a stable system. Because of the buffer, the
breakdown, absenteeism, balancing of line, change of style can be easily managed.

6. An effective production control system and quality control system can be implemented.
(a) Time study, method study techniques; (b) Operator training programme; (c) Use of
material handling equipments, such as centre table, chute, conveyor, trolley, bins, etc.

From the above case study I concluded that the Industry have used tools of I.E. with its help they
were able to achieve –:

1) Better manpower utilization

2) Increase in productivity
3) Less absenteeism
4) Reduced cost of labor
5) Systematic way of working
METHODOLOGY

Firstly, I did SWOT analysis for the project to propose a method and to identify the problem area .

Strength – Strength for the project is that the management /CEO wanted to change the current practice in
the industry. So were willing to incorporate the changes. Hence the production efficiency can be
accomplished .

Weakness- 1) Lack of machines .

2) Lack of operators to set up a proper line .
3) Lack of skilled operators, Therefore creates problems for line balancing.
4) Rigidness of operators & supervisors for not accepting the system.

Opportunities – 1) Can increase the production efficiency by incorporating the change.

2) They can take more orders , if the efficiency is increased .
3) Quality can be improved.
4) Less alterations can be achieved .
5) Operators can get more skilled by working on different machines .
6) Systematic way of working can be done .
7) Company can increase its market value .

Threat – 1) Proposing so many changes , can offend the operators and supervisors and can opt to leave the
organization.
2) To maintain the changes and continue them afterwards also is again a challenge for the management .

Now, the methodology for the project includes-:

1) Data Collection

Setting layouts for the line according to the style .

1) For that firstly , prepare Breakdown of the operations for that particular garment .

2) Assign machine and attachments (if needed ) for every operation.

3) Then conduct time study .

4) Then by the help of time study calculate SMV , Cycle time , SAM , Potential output/hr, M/c
requirement , Operator requirement , Target /day, operator efficiency , Target days for a style.
 5) Create a operation Bulletin

*Refer to Appendix 1

6) Then after getting the above data set the line .

 7) Now, monitor the line productivity by Hourly Production Board

2) Time and Action Plan

Setting time and action plan to track the delays in any process , if happens .

And can catch hold of the concerned persons for that process .
*Refer to Appendix 2

I worked upon 6-7 styles in three months , there were many problems that came after the implementation .
In initial styles the problem which occurred are as follows -:

1) The operators allotted to certain operations have no clarity of operation , Hence creating
bottlenecks .
2) Lack of coordination among the operators . Therefore increasing the WIP in line
3) Lot of attitude problems created problem for the line
4) Lack of operator skills
5) Difficult to make one operator to work on another operation inspite of using the same machine
6) Operations are altered again and again , which disturbs the line setting
7) Lack of machines
8) Lack of operators
9) Frequent operator absenteeism
10) No planning of which style should go in line first

Some of the solutions which I gave to rectify the problems are as follows -:

1) Training of low skilled operator

2) Utilization of every machine kept on the floor to reduce machine problem
3) Admitting new operators to solve lack of operator problem
4) To finalize the operations of the garment before going to line only
5) Training of supervisors , so that they too can guide and handle operators
 RESULTS

There were around 6 styles I worked upon. In initial styles the degree of implementing I.E was not up to
the mark but slowly and gradually it had increased .The things which had to be achieved are as follows -:

1) Line layout
2) Line balancing
3) Operator efficiency
4) Line efficiency
5) Hourly output
6) Followed OB
7) Planning (manpower+ m/c)
8) Recording hourly data
9) Target production

The below mentioned is the result of project –

*Refer to Appendix 3

Implementation of I.E
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1 Implementation of I.E
0
TSSFA161083

TSSFA161044

TSSFA161083
JEAFA161370

VTSFA161161

JEAFA161060/61
 * Refer to Appendix 2

The above table shows that same category (jeggings ) when stitched with partially implemented I.E takes 9
days to come out of the sewing line while when stitched by religiously following I.E takes almost 3 days to
be out of the sewing line .

Hence , It can be concluded that Industrial Engineering as a tool has been successfully implemented
in the industry .
Limitations
1) Time shortage
2) lack of information providing attitude
3) Lack of space
4) To make operators and supervisors , understand the use of system was really tough

Scope

The project can be used further for implementing various other I.E. tools that can be
 To create Skill matrix for the operators
 To pre-define the operator efficiency
 To standardize certain operations from the data
 CONCLUSION
Industrial engineering is an important and essential part of any apparel industry. Implementations of the
processes which I have studied theoretically. It gives me an opportunity to compare the theoretical knowledge
with practical facts and thus develop knowledge and skills.

The productivity and efficiency of the sewing lines (studied by me) has been increased . .Now , they have
accepted I.E. as a tool in the industry .Hence started working systematically .
 BIBLIOGRAPHY

Farhatun Nabi 1, R. M. (n.d.). Scientific and academic publishing. Retrieved 2016, from Improving sewing
section efficiency through utilizing worker capacity:
http://article.sapub.org/10.5923.j.textile.20150401.01.html

Khatun, M. M. (n.d.). Retrieved 2016, from Application of I.E in the industrty for better productivity:
http://www.ijset.net/journal/212.pdf

Roy, S. S. (n.d.). Retrieved 2016, from Application of I.E on the sewing floor :
http://dspace.daffodilvarsity.edu.bd:8080/bitstream/handle/123456789/848/Application%20of%20Industri
al%20Engineering%20In%20Garments%20sewing%20floor.pdf?sequence=1