KULLU CAP / KULLU TOPI

Caps, the glorious crown of Himachal Pradesh are now a recognized fashion logo in every
hue. Colourful caps fascinate everyone at first instance. These Topi are an essential part of
man’s clothing and act as a symbol for the residents of Himachal Pradesh. It is round in
shape with a flat design on the top. Its design with a colourful border adds beauty to its
pattern.

The portion covering the head is made of woollen yarn or cotton. The traditional yet stylish
headgear has derived its name from the place of its origin. Locally, it is called as Kullu topi
and is an important part of a local man’s attire/apparel/garments. Alike Kullu district, in some
of the other districts also, cap is an important part of male’s attire. The designs of the caps
represent the area. The Kullu cap is round in shape and is flat on the top. A band of colourful
border brightens the front with beautiful pattern, which is separately woven on small looms
and the back portion, which covers the head is made of local woollen yarn and sometimes is
also made of cotton or any other light material. These days, plain velvet caps in maroon and
green colours are also available in the market. Once use of bright colours in the cap was the
significant feature of the caps but nowadays, vegetable colours are being used. These caps
are categorized as small, medium and large. The price of a Kullu cap depends on the cloth
used and the pattern on the border.

Value chain

Sourcing

Sourcing

Kullu Caps are known for their sharp geometrical patterns and vibrant colours. Apart from
the neat geometric patterns, these shawls can also be seen with floral motifs that can be
both in the centre or the corners. Colour range generally consists of 4 to 8 different colours
of yarns with bright shades of yellow, red, magenta and blue among others.

For Kullu caps two types of yarn usually sourced – Cotton and wool yarn with different
colours. Which will further used in weaving of caps patti. Side band of topi are made from
wool or linen fabric
Which is sourced from local vendors/ along with yarn for patti
WEAVING

Handloom weaving is done on the four-pedal Loom. The weavers do weaving at home, and
most men are involved in the process. Warp yarn is loaded to the beam, where the old warp
yarn is preserved for continuing the new cloth weaving. The threads are knotted to the past
yarn present in heddles, and the shaft is fixed to the handloom where the weaving process
occurs. Weaving is an interlocking of two separate yarns at right angles like weft thread and
warping yarn, which makes a fabric. In the handloom, the weft yarn is spun to the small
bobbins that are placed inside the wooden instruments called a shuttle. The weft
yarn-loaded shuttle is moved between the warp yarns, which makes the weaving process
appear. Heddles hold the warp yarns in the Loom. The alternate warp yarn is picked up by
one heddle, and the rest of the other warp yarn is owned by other heddles. The movement
of the pedals moves two heddles up and down, which makes the warp into two parts and
opens a small passage every time the pedaling is done. That passage is where the shuttle is
moved from right to left and left to right, correspondingly. Thus, the weft yarn is weaved and
interlaced between the alternate warp yarns. The shuttle can be moved by the hand or
pushed with force with a small hand mechanism applied that is called a fly shuttle. Once the
shuttle is moved, the weft yarn is tightened and advanced towards the previous weaved
yarn with the help of a reed beater. Reed is a wooden block with tiny passages made for the
warp yarn to insert. Reed is moved to and fro for tightening the weft yarns. This is like a
repetitive process, which happens only when a weaver pedals with the legs, runs the fly
shuttle with his/her right hand and moves the reed beater with the left side. All these
movements should occur in correspondence to acquire the smooth flowing of the weaving
process.
Cutting: For making a cap, the woolen cloth is cut in a round shape and also cut like a strip.
The woolen fabric is cut in a round shape for making the crown of the cap according to the
required measurement. The two layers are required for the top of the cap. Then the
necessary piece of strips is cut for the sideband according to the measure.

Stitching: Firstly, the top portion of the cap is prepared by attaching the two round-shaped
cloths. The canvas is placed in between the two finished-shaped fabrics, and circular
stitching is done on the machine. The canvas gives stiffness to the cap. Then both the edges
of the strip and top are stitched together using the sewing machine. The front part of the
cap is attached to a designed border. At last, the prepared cap is put upon the wooden
block and ironed to remove wrinkles.

Pricing : kullu topi is priced between Rs 50 to

Rs 250 ; Cost mostly depend of type of raw
material used. If it from linen and wool patti
its usual price vary from 120 -180 in market.
Benchmark craft – Kullu Shawl

This craft is vastly similar to the Kullu cap(Topis). The

handlooms that make the shawls also make the woven
patches for the topis. These patches are the most
important aspect of a Himachali topi and carry the most
significance

Some of the issues raised are inherent to the industry

and its people. One of the biggest issues is that the
supply of authentic shawls is mostly in the valley (for
most tourists) This market is all about the difference
between hand-woven mature Kullu shawls and
powerloom shawls. To meet this demand, we need a
stable supply of shawls, which are supplied to many
parts of the world and throughout the country in the
valleys.
The most important of these is the fact that large
companies in the valley produce the majority of the
inventory, as they supply to retail chains and small
export markets (through government-organized craft
shows).
As the number of valley artisans willing to work full time
dwindles, they are unwilling to expand.
Furthermore, in these companies, the inability to use
raw materials and interior decoration facilities is
reducing the incentive to hire more weavers.
At the level of workers, more and more weavers leave
their jobs to go to gardening, travel and even to the
nearest hydroelectric power station to look for work.
Most of the existing weavers work part time.
Complex problems don't end there.
The government attempted to revitalize the industry by
introducing various subsidies and programs to
cooperatives to help reduce the decline in the number of
weavers. This resulted in corruption, and combined with
the cooperative's huge bureaucracy, the funds rarely
leak to the grassroots.
In addition, small industries / cooperatives that require
the support of the Ministry of Commerce must show
earnings for at least three years to do so.
Local tourists with average purchasing power are only
looking for souvenirs locally, and this demand is to buy
shawls in Kullu, no matter where or how they are made.