SouthNarc’s PSP 1

Okay this starts with forward

aggression from baseball
cap. I’m in a non-violent ready
position sometimes called
the “Jack Benny”. Hands are
close to the head and golden
column. Not aggressive at all
but prepared.

Baseball cap swings a right

haymaker to my grape. I cover
with the left arm in a shielding
motion (Filipino flava’) and also
bring my right up just below my
eye line. This is a good “flinch”.
Easy to pull off even when the
attack is spontaneous.
I now drop my left shielding arm
and hook his head because I
don’t want him getting away
from me. From this point, two
good options are the palm strike
and the elbow. Let’s go with the
elbow.

Beginning arc of the elbow.

When you do this don’t just
grab the back of his head but
kind of slap/pull it towards you
so you get that little occipital
hit. That’s why my left hand is
spread open.
Completed elbow. OUCH!
Remember that this is forehand
energy or a #1 in FMA.

From the elbow I’m going to arc

back into an edge of forearm
blow (back hand or #2 energy).
This is the beginning of the arc
and because it’s so tight, I’ve
already caught him with the
lower edge of my forearm.
Completed #2 forearm strike,
smashing through into that nice
steel door.

Let’s continue the energy of

the back forearm blow on
downward keeping his head
controlled while pulling.
This will continue into the knee
strike to his face.

As my knee drops back down,

I’m going to slide my left hand
from where it’s checking his
right arm, across his body
downwards, and grab his head.
Now I have both hands on his
head.
Now we go from pulling to
pushing his head across the
body because we’ve pivoted the
hips to the left and it’s no longer
a pulling motion.

We’ll end the progression by

launching his melon as hard as
we can (think about a bowling
ball) into the other steel door.

That’s it for this one guys.

Nothing complicated or frilly.

Enjoy!
SouthNarc’s PSP 2

Okay guys here’s a second

progression, again simple and
direct. This one again starts off
with forward aggression from
baseball cap. I’m in different
relaxed ready position this time.
I’m in a high arm fold but my
arms are not wrapped around
one another. Just folded over
the top.

Baseball cap again swings a

haymaker right. Because it’s
a wide arcing punch I catch
it on the inside when I cover.
My cover is the off-side raised
vertical elbow. The strong hand
comes up again, right below my
eye line. Both elbows are kept
in close to the body. I didn’t get
as close to him as I’d like to be,
(flinched away a bit more) so
I’m going to use a longer tool
than my preferred elbow when I
attack.
I hit him with a palm strike to
the chin, driving him through
and back. I continue to monitor
his right arm with my left hand.

I continue to press forward,

close to him, shifting and hitting
with the left horizontal elbow
strike (forehand energy). My
right hand shifts from the palm
strike downward to monitor his
left arm.
From the left horizontal elbow
I’ll shift again into a back hand
forearm strike. Since this is so
close this could be a strike or a
kind of face scrape. The back-
hand is a natural strike from
this position and it also opens
up another good target, the left
side of his head/face. My right
hand continues to monitor his
left.

Continuing the backhand

forearm strike, I’ll peel his face
back to his right and begin
another elbow strike with my
right hand.
Completed elbow strike.

That’s it for this one. Quick,

down, and dirty! Follow this
one up however you like.
Remember that we’re just
mixing up tools.
SouthNarc’s PSP 3

A third progression. This one

starts off with our beloved
“Baseball Cap” again up
my ass. I’m standing in a
“surrender” position, hands
high, ready, and non-
threatening. So far I’ve shown
three different non-threatening
ready positions in the various
progressions. The “Jack
Benny”, arms folded high, and
the “surrender” that you see
below. Use any, all, or none
depending on what you already
know or do.

He smokes a right hand, but

this time it doesn’t arc at all. It
shoots straight like a good box-
er’s cross. I still flinch with a left
vertical elbow and right cover
hand, but this time because
there is no arc, the straight
line punch kind of skid/deflects
where my forearm cuts it off. I
also didn’t close as much as I
would have liked to because his
center line is well covered with
that straight right hand.
I’m going to clear his right hand
by snatching his punch arm
down. All I’m doing here is just
letting my curled elbow unfurl
straight down and carrying his
punching arm with me. If you
have the reference point, it’s
like rolling from Tan-Sao to
Bong-Sao; that kind of energy.
If you don’t know a Lop-Sao
from a how-now-brown-cow,
then don’t worry about the anal-
ogy. I do this to clear his body/
upper line for a right hand tool
that I’m going to throw.

As I start forward, he smokes

another punch towards my face,
this time a tight arced left, or
boxer’s hook. I zone hard at
a left forty-five degree angle
forward (the female triangle)
and jam the hook with my right
forearm, cutting it off. There is
a lot of power behind that left
hook and I’m starting to lose the
right as he is following my push
and will probably roll upwards
into another punch.
I attack the lowline with an
oblique with an oblique kick us-
ing the inside edge of my foot.
This is a Sipa in FMA/Silat. It
doesn’t matter what you call it
though, and everyone does it.
When I do this kick I continue
through my forty-five degree
forward angle. Aimed at the
knee and done with kind of a
thrusting/stomping energy, it’s a
nice shot to hurt him and desta-
bilize his base. When I desta-
bilize the right leg it takes a lot
away from any power in his
right hand, allowing me to let go
of his right hand and use a left
hand tool.

I’ll now step straight across my

right, away from his unmoni-
torted right hand and his him
with my left elbow, keeping his
left arm checked with my right.
This is the roof of the female
triangle.
Shifting back to my left and
forward, again at forty-five de-
grees (left leg of female triangle
right leg of male triangle). I hit
him with a right upward palm
strike trying to fracture his skull
with door. I also monitor his
right hand with my left.

Let’s finish this with a right

knee to the groin, because his
chimes are down there feeling a
little ignored.
Gon’s Supplement
This is the vertical elbow shield
from a front view. Notice that
the tip of my elbow covers my
center line and my arm is slight-
ly angled in. My head is tucked
but I can still see, chin in. My
body angle can be adjusted
as needed by pivoting my hips
either to the left or the right.
If he throws an arcing attack
then the elbow covers the head.
You want to step in when you
do this. This is a top view to try
and show the angle.

If he throws a straight punch

then the punching hand will
deflect off of the elbow and
through, kind of skidding off
your arm. All you’re doing then
is cutting it off or redirecting it.
But not passively, everything is
aggressive and forward. This
will also upset his center line as
his momentum and upper body
will usually cross over his lower
body.

The point of all this is not to

have to think about whether
the punch is arced or straight in
the moment of the attack. Just
flinch and let the mechanics do
their thing. No, it’s not perfect
but it works surprisingly well
and it’s one less thing that you
have to think about.
Okay, on to your next ques-
tion about him rolling his arm.
Lets start from where you jerk it
down.

If he follows my energy and just

rolls his elbow over, he cracks
me in the face like so.
The counter for this is again to
cut the elbow off by jamming
it. I’ll do this by angling into this
elbow at forty-five degrees and
using my right forearm/elbow
to jam it. If you don’t put all
your mass behind it, he’ll crash
through. That’s why you have
to stay aggressive and drive for-
ward. Seek safety at the heart
of danger.

From the other side. Those are

the mechanics. From here we
can launch into several counter
attacks.
The first is to pass his elbow
with my jamming hand (my
right) and begin a mid-line at-
tach with my left.

The shovel to the oblique works

nicely; again, closest tool to
closest target.
A second counter after you’ve
jammed his elbow is to use your
left to jam (trap) his elbow back
into him and then hit with your
right arm. This would be like a
pak-sao/sat-sao in Wing Chun.
I’ve broken them up indepen-
dently for the pictures, but you
would want to jam and hit simul-
taneously in real time. This is
the jam (trap).

Here’s the edge of forearm hit,

still keeping him checked.
A third option is to dive in and
hug him to you so he can’t use
his arms, simultaneous with ac-
cessing a weapon, in this case
a folder in my right front pocket.
This is the beginning of the
dive/hug/clinch.

Hugging his tight, accessing a

weapon.
Weapon is complete accessed.
This is where knives come out
in the real world. Don’t ever
let him see it; only feel it. It’s
also something that you have
to constantly be aware of which
is also another reason to con-
stantly keep him rattled with
striking while you are doing
body manipulations (locking,
grappling, etc.).

I’ll complete this third option

by shifting my grab/hug a little
higher so I can pull him back-
wards wile I stab him in the
kidney. Since I’m edge in point
down, once I stab him, I’ll rip
back and tear through, using
my hips.
 Basic Concepts of Joint Locking

More often than not as police officers, we will have to lock someone after they’re grounded to cuff
them. In most of our programs we’re taught “techniques” instead of concepts. In PPCT we teach the
“Transport” wrist lock and the straight arm bar take down. Anything other than these two methods, or
any variation of these techniques is considered a no-no. I think this is the wrong approach.
What is a “joint lock”? It’s really
nothing more than the hyper
extension of a joint beyond it’s
normal range of motion. That’s
it, nothing more. So if we take
the wrist for example, there are
four normal ranges of motion.
They would be:

The wrist bending down.

The wrist bending up.

The wrist rotating to the outside

of the body.
And finally, the wrist rotating to
the inside of the body.
Now, other than those four
directions that’s it. There
is nothing else. There are
four ways to lock the wrist.
Everything else is where
you are at in the moment. To
illustrate this, what follows are
variations of the transport wrist
lock. The wrist is still being
hyper extended in the same
way as the text book PPCT
technique. The only difference
is everything else. I feel that
it’s important for officers to be
able to pick up a lock wherever
it presents itself versus looking
for the perfect “escort” position.
So here goes. Remember that
essentially they’re all the same.

Standing bent wrist lock.

Standing bent wrist lock with
neck and head control.

Standing bent wrist lock, arms

intertwined.
Standing bent wrist lock, arms
not entwined with elbow control.

Bent wrist lock with elbow con-

trol, opponent’s arm high.
Bent wrist lock with face control,
opponent’s arm high.

Bent wrist lock, grounded in

side mount.
Bent wrist lock, grounded in
side mount with elbow in the
point of the neck.

Bent wrist lock opponent strad-

dled in a semi-mount.
Bent wrist lock, opponent
mounted, with arm bar and
half choke. Fancy, and you’d
probably never get here, but
just for the sake of concept it’s
included.

Bent wrist lock, opponent

grounded, reverse cross mount.
Bent wrist lock, opponent
grounded in side mount. In this
one I’m not pushing the hand
down but pulling the elbow,
after I’ve posted the top of his
hand in my deltoid area.

Standing bent wrist lock, oppo-

nent’s hand posted flat on my
center, pulling on his elbow.
Standing bent wrist lock, hand
captured in my armpit, pulling
the elbow into my body, which
locks the wrist. Shoulder is
controlled also.

So in essence, in all of
these pictures, I’m using the
exact same lock, which we
understand is the bent wrist,
and is nothing more than
pushing it in a normal direction,
beyond innate flexibility. The
only thing that’s different is my
positioning and plane.

Master the concept and you can

pick it up anywhere in the fight.
Techniques are just moments
in time, and will probably never
repeat themselves.
PSP 5: Car Combat

Fighting a standing assailant

from the driver’s compartment
of your vehicle is a difficult
problem. It’s a given that if
you can, try and drive away.
Sometimes you might not
be able to, however. He has
several advantages over me.
First he has the mobility of
his lower body which I really
don’t at this point. Secondly, he
has superior position from the
standpoint of height and pelvic
alignment. The pelvic alignment
is pretty critical in that he’s
cutting my center line via our
relative positioning of him at 90
degrees to my flank. He can
generate a lot of downward/
forward striking power, while I
really can’t.

From forward aggression I’m in

a modified “Jack Benny” ready
position, with my strong/right
hand on the wheel.
Okay he throws a hard right.
My flinch response is to lift
my left elbow high from the
window, tucking my chin into
my deltoid, and cover my face/
head. The right hand covers
my face, close in. At the same
time I’m going to lean back to
my right and begin to swivel my
hips towards him by scooting
counter clockwise in the seat on
my ass.

Beginning of my flinch,
beginning of his punch.

Completed flinch, completed

punch.
Closer shot of flinch.

His forward/downward
momentum has carried him,
and he lunges into the driver’s
compartment. As his left arm
reaches through, I’ll check it
with my right on the inside. At
the same time, as he’s closing,
I’ll straighten my shielding
elbow out, on the inside of his
punching arm and grab the
back of his head/neck. I also
continue to swivel towards him,
so even though I’m seated, my
pelvis is forward aligned, facing
him.
I really can’t hit him with very
much power because of my
limited mobility and positioning.
I’m going to improve my
position and lessen his, by
clinching him around his neck
with my forearms tight, and
pulling him into me. What this
does is reduce his striking
power because I’ve essentially
taken his lower body away from
his upper body. Try leaning over
a table and striking, not moving
your feet. That’s what you want
to do to him.

Continuing to improve my
position and disadvantage
him further, I’ll swivel back to
my right with my hips, pulling
his left arm with my right and
carrying him with me. At the
same time I’ll lever forward into
his neck, with my left forearm,
pushing him. This will cause
him to spin/ torque/spiral and
unbalance him even more.
I opened it up a bit for the
picture, so everyone could see
the mechanics a little better, so
just remember that you would
be a little tighter than this.
I continue to pull him
downwards and into my lap. I’ll
also drive forward and into his
throat with my forearm in kind
of a bar choke/strike. Now my
position is much better.

After he makes a few chicken

squawks from my bar choke,
I’ll drive upwards, scraping his
face with the tip of my elbow
and try and open a striking line
for my right hand at an upward
angle.
The line is opened and I hit
him with an upward palm strike
under the chin, driving his head
as hard as I can into the roof of
the driver’s compartment.

After the palm strike, I’ll uncurl

my grinding left elbow, and
hit him with a back forearm
strike/hack, bashing him into
the windshield. I’ll drop my palm
striking right hand, back to his
left forearm and monitor it.
Let’s get him out of the car.
I’ll scrape his head across
the windshield, from where I
smashed it, and to my left, back
towards the window. I’ll pivot
again to my left, in the seat and
cock my left leg.

I’ll shove him back as hard as I

can with my left arm and pivot
almost completely in the seat,
leaning backwards and setting
up a longer tool.
While he’s still in range I’ll kick
him in the face ejecting him
completely. At this point you can
escape out the passenger side.

That’s it. Enjoy!

Gun Grappling

The scenario is that you’ve

been grounded with gun in
hand, mounted, and then your
adversary gets a gun in hand.
Both of you then grab each
other’s muzzles/slides. Where
from here?

This is an extremely challenging

problem.

So I took my lunch time to

kick it around a bit and here
are some possibilities. Again,
nothing here is absolute, just
how it turned out today.

Okay it starts like this, which

sucks.

Another view.
Okay things to consider.

Our position is bad from the

standpoint of him having me
mounted. I’ve got to somehow,

A) Keep him muzzle averted.

B) Get his gun out of his hand.

C) Keep him from disarming me.

D) Make him let go of my gun.

E) Improve my position.

F) Set up a shot.

In playing with this I’m going to

combine some FMA stick stripping/
disarming methodology with BJJ
position work.

In the pic he has slapped the

muzzle into my chest and I’ve
muzzle averted him. We’re
strength to strength right now and
considering the size difference
I can’t hold this but a second
or three. I’m going to begin by
following the downward energy of
his grabbing hand across my body
and back up which will start to
cross his arms somewhat.
Okay from here I will shoot my
gun-hand straight up and over,
across his right hand/forearm
which is the one holding my
gun.

Simultaneously I will bridge up

and to my right.

Another shot of the tie-up/

bridge.
And another shot of the tie-
up/bridge. What I’m not doing
in this picture that I should be,
is trapping his left foot and leg
with my right heel.

Following my bridge, I will roll

into him keeping the tie up. The
puts me on my right side and
him on his left.
Another view.

I continue to roll, on top of his

crossed arms. He has lost con-
siderable grip strength on his
own gun at this point.
Another shot.

Okay I’ll now tear his gun out

of his hand while levering down
on his hand which is holding my
gun, with my elbow, crushing
and grinding it. I’ll facilitate my
strip of his gun by continuing
to roll while pulling, using my
momentum and hips.
Another shot.

Completed strip. Okay, now

that I control his gun I’ve got to
completely get mine back.
I’ll do this by pulling my gun
while grinding either his palm...

... or his fingers with my elbow,

whichever is available. I’ll still
pull with my hips and roll, us-
ing my torso against his hand
strength.
When I rip my gun out finally, I’ll
continue to roll, clear a firing line,
and dump my magazine into his
oblique.

That’s it.
 PSP 9: ECQ Knife Defense

Most knife defense sequences are taught at range against attacks that always have nice long, clean
angles. This is usually not the case against an attack that comes in close where you have no room to
zone.

Your initial response at ECQ should be to do whatever is necessary to keep that blade from being
sunk into your body. There are two options; jam it or pass it.

Jamming means to intercept the blade’s momentum with your arm and the forward drive of your body.
“Jamming” connotes a more active, aggressive posture than blocking and that’s why I like to use this
term. Jamming usually occurs on the inside of the attack.

The other option which is preferred but not always available is passing. Passing doesn’t interrupt the
blade’s momentum but redirects it away from your body. Passing usually occurs on the outside of the
attack, but you can (and should) pass after you jam.

You can jam or pass with either arm.

So what dictates what you do? Simple.

The closest tool responds to the attack and whether you jam or pass is dictated by your relative
position to the arc of the attack.

That’s my opinion on knife defense. How does it work? Well let’s see.
In this first picture I’m getting
a forehand attack. I’m at close
quarter and I can’t zone. My
left foot is leading my right just
slightly (that’s where I happen
to be), which has pivoted my
hips to the right. This puts my
left hand slightly ahead of my
right, thus it is the closest tool.

Because of my relative position

to the arc of the attack, I’m
caught on the inside. Because
I’m caught on the inside and I
have no room to zone I have no
other option but to...

...jam it. Jamming is done

simultaneous with an attack
of my own, in this case a palm
strike.
Followed by a knee strike.

The palm strike/knee combo

has rattled him sufficiently to
break his forward drive so I’ll
quickly improve my position by
passing the knife to the outside.
This starts with an edge of hand
blow to the arm holding the
blade...
...which follows through,
passing his knife across my
body. Now I’m in a better
position.

The last thing I like to do with

a guy is attack the low-line. I
feel like this is very important
because it destroys his mobility,
and with very little area to work
with at ECQ, mobility is critical.
So we’ll end this with an inside
edge of boot kick to the knee
which drives the knee cap into
the ground.

After destroying his mobility,

pummel and stomp until he
doesn’t get up.
In this attack my left foot is
again slightly leading my right
which makes my left hand the
closest to the attack. The arc
of the attack this time is tighter
so now I’m not caught on the
inside. So I initiate a pass by
striking the outside of his arm
with an edge of hand blow.

After my left-handed, edge of

hand blow I’ll drive forward and
hit his knife hand again with a
right handed edge of hand blow,
which has allowed me to grab
his sleeve. I’ll keep that control
and continue to drive, hitting
him with an edge of hand/
forearm blow in the throat.
Once again, I’ll attack his
mobility with an inside edge of
boot kick. Stomp and pummel
afterwards.

Okay this time my right foot

is leading my left a bit which
has pivoted my hips to the left
slightly. Now my right hand
is the closest to the attack.
My relative postion to the arc
(which is tight and straighter)
is to the outside so I’ll initiate a
right handed pass with a right
handed edge of hand blow.
I’ll drive forward and hit him
with a palm strike to the head,
keeping that knife hand to
the outside. Whether you’ve
grabbed it or just deflected it
doesn’t really matter as long as
the knife is to your outside. I’m
grabbing in the pictures but you
may miss it.

I could hit him again with

something but from where I’m
at I can go ahead and attack
the low-line. Pummel and stomp
again after you’ve destroyed his
mobility.
I’m somewhat neutral here
but his attack (a tightly arced,
upward thrust to my gut) makes
my left hand the closest tool.
I’m caught on the inside of it, so
I jam and hit with a palm strike
just like before.

After the palm strike, I’ll hit

his knife arm with an edge of
hand blow which again follows
through with a pass to the
outside.
I’ll hit with a knee strike and
follow that with the inevitable
low-line destruction.

Let’s change the environment

up a bit. I have an attacker who
I don’t see (‘cause I’ve got my
head up my ass on this day), off
to my left.
He moves in with a hooking
thrust. I’m caught on the inside
and my left hand is the closest
tool.

I jam it and hit him with a chin

jab.
Followed with a knee strike...

...followed with an edge of hand

blow pass which puts me on the
outside.
Forward drive allows me to
follow the pass into a slam into
the car. A knee strike afterwards
is right there.

Again I’ve got my head in my

ass and miss the skel off to my
right.
The attack this time is a wide
hooking forehand which I’m
caught on the inside of. My right
hand is the closest so I jam on
the inside with an edge of hand
blow.

I’ll take that edge of hand blow’s

momentum into a pass to the
outside, pivoting my hips as I
drive forward and hit him with a
heel of hand (palm) blow.
Followed with a knee strike that
drops him to the deck.

And a finishing edge of hand

blow to the back of his neck.
Attacker to my right gives me
an arcing overhand. My right
hand is closest and I’m not
caught on the inside.

Pass is initiated with an edge of

hand blow to the outside of his
knife arm.
Forward drive into the palm
strike.

Edge of boot kick/stomp to the

knee, driving into the concrete.
In summary.

1) When you can’t zone you can either jam the attack or pass it.

2) The closet tool responds to the attack.

3) Whether you jam or pass is dictated by your relative position to the arc of the attack. Passing is
preferred as it puts you on the outside of his body, but don’t try and pass when you can’t.

4) After jamming or passing (preferably simultaneous with) attack viciously.

5) Destroy his mobility.

6) Pummel, stomp, stab, shoot, or haul ass.

That’s it. Remember it’s not the way just a way.

Enjoy!

ShivWorks