I M O G E N D AV I E S

D AV 1 5 4 4 3 3 1 2
‘ P O RT F O L I O ’
 P T. 1

‘ T H E S TAT E O F T H I N G S ’
GRACE is a bespoke womens wear label
which is challanging the way we perseve
bespoke tailoring. In a current fashion
climate where quality is greatly
overshadowed by societys perception of the
brand who has produced it.

Within this collection I have examined the

relationship between craft & comodification
within the modern world and our
relationship with the clothes we are buying.
This collection finds the balance between
bespoke tailoring and the demands of a
moderns fashinable woman. Creating piec-
es that are timless, chaning the perception
of the viewer and making people question
what actually is Bespoke Tailoring today?
*craft

noun

an activity involving skill in making things by

hand.
“the craft of cobbling”
*commodification

noun

the action or process of treating

something as a mere commodity.
“the commodification of knowledge”
Londons archiitectural beauties have been in-
vaded by the brands. People are
underappreciating the craft and beauty of the
buildings, they are only seing the chain
coffee shop that inhabits the building at eye-
level. This is the same issue that is happening
within the fashion industry.
OMG HOW BIG IS
YOUR BRAND?

THE CURRENT FASHION CLIMATE

We live in a current fashion situated dominated how big a
brands logo is plastered all over the garment. The quality
of the garment is a nonentity in the consideration of an
indervidual when purchasing. This is allowing big com-
panies such as gucci, to charge astromoical amounts of
money for badly made garmetns as they know they can
get away with it becuase the brand will sell.

EVERYONE LOOKS THE SAME

The current
Fashion world is a
product of us not
Really caring about
the craft behind the
product we buy.,
Rather we are just
looking at what celebs
are wearing what and
what brands are ‘cool’
enough to wear.
 Analyising the hottest
Products of 2018 q2

Bold branding
Smaller price point, more
Accessable to the larger market, all
products price point is gernally between
£100-£400, which for luxury fashion
items from large houses is the cheapest
range of products.
All of the items are quite flashy, and you
can teell the brand by jut a glance.
Acsesssories, so can be worn more with
more things
Whats the point of
Spendng all that money if people dont
know?
C R E AT I N G A N E W
ENVIROMENT
 B E S P O K E TA I L O R I N G I S A S O L U T I O N T O
T H E M E S S T H AT T H E FA S H I O N W O R L D I S
I N R I G H T N O W.
S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

Fashion has become disposable, wether it be disposable high street or

luxury. The quality of how things are made has become an after thought.
Within a world in a state of climate crisis, bespoke has a vital role in
changing how things are done. Instead of spending an arm and a leg of
a gucci jacket full of holes, they should be educaed and invest that mon-
ey in buying a bespoke garment that will last a lifetime. Bespoke is one of
the most climate friendly within the fashion industry, fabric mainly sourced
within the UK, reducing the carbon footprint of the garment. Also using
mainly naturl fibers (wool, cotton ...) Bespoke garments last a life time.

POLITICAL

With the doom of Brexit looming, it is vital for the fashion industry to invest
in UK mills and textiles industry. Not only is this decreasing the garments
carbon footprit, it is keeping a vital industry to the bespoke world alive. To
keep the UK tsextiles industry alive, fashion has to change and use suppli-
ers from within the UK.
Josep h -
C hi c , beaut ifuly cut , classic
styl e s wit h t wist s. faded pal-
l e ts, making masculine shapes
f e m i n i n.
CURRENT MARKET
COMPETITION

Jil San d e r -
Fl owi n g, neut r al t o nes, classic
styl e s. Sa nder do esn’t fo llo w
tre n d s a nd t he co llect io ns are
ti m e l e ss.
Ellery -
Mi x b e tween classic st yles and
a va nt gu a rd fashio n fo r ward
p i e c e s. Mix o f pat t er ns neut r al
tone s.
Market P lacemen t -
GRACE bes p ok e s its in the
high end, luxur y ma r k e t,
providin g the q ua lity tha t
Savile Row d os e w ithin the
luxury mark e t. High p r ic e p oint
w hich w ill re f le c t the q ua lity of
the produ cts . Fitting in
alongside J il S a nd e r, Elle r y
and Joseph, GR A CE w ould
apeal t o the s imila r ma r k e t.
WHO IS SHE?
Who will wear this collection? My client
is the woman who isn’t interested in what
other people are wearing, what brands are
deamed as the ‘coolest’, they are the wom-
en who dress for themselves, who use thier
clothing as a way to express who they are
and enable them to live thier lives.
I asked three friends, who I would describe
as my client, to answer the simple question
of;
‘ W H AT D O S E FA S H I O N M E A N T O Y O U A N D
HOW YOU DRESS?’
All the girls responded from an emotional
place and a personal place. This is my wom-
an, wether its high street or prada, clothing
means something more than just a label and
quality is an essential.
BIANKA SAVATH
WELLBEING COACH
30
LONDON

MARISA ABELA
3RD YEAR @ RADA
22
BRIGHTON
 P T. 2

‘ D O U B L E TA K E ’
FINDING A BALANCE BETWEEN THE
TRADITIONAL AND PUSHING TAILOR-
ING TO THE FUTURE.
FA B R I C , FA B R I C ,
FA B R I C
When balancing old and new, with the fabric choices of
garments i wish to have very classic styled/patterend fabric
all with a slight moder n touch to them. For
Example a traditioanl pin stripe in contrasting colours.
 I felt that to create my own
monogram would be a perfect
way to sumerise the concept of
my project , as all of the highest
seeling itmes on the BOF list in-
clude a print of the brands mon-
ogram or logo on there some-
where. Also using the pad stitch
which is know to be one of the
longest processes within the
bespoke process. Making this
long process into something
that can be reproduced quickly
onto anything and everything,
tieing into my concept of co-
modification.
 THE MONOGRAM

In the luxury fashion cli-

mate of today the golden
ticket of guarnteed sales
for most huge fashion hous-
es is to create an iconic
house monogram, Quick
and easy to print onto
everything, from scarfs and
bags, to coats and t-shirts.
 craft is construction
The make up of a building is
the same as that of a suit. Nuts
and bolts, basitng threads and
pad stitches.
T H E E S S E N TA I L B E S P O K E
ELEMENTS TO WARP:

COLLAR
PA D S T I T C H I N G
CANVAS
WAISTBAND
making process
first fit toile
toile 1
initial toile
 LOOK 1

LOOK 1 -
BACK TO FRONT JACKET
BELL BOTTOM TROUSERS
LOOK 1
LOOK 2 -
TWO PART ASYMETRIC DRESS. BONED
DRAPED SIDE.
LOOK 2
 LOOK 3
LOOK 3-
LONG LINE GILET
BONED JUMPSUIT
LOOK 4-
DRAPED DRESS
LOOK 4