COSMETICS

The word ‘cosmetic’ is derived from greek word ‘kosmitkos’ meaning ‘having the
power to arrange, skilled in decorating’ .Cosmetics are the articles intended to be
placed in contact with various external part of the body for cleansing, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness and altering appearance.

HERBAL COSMETICS

Herbal cosmetics are now getting more importance as its side effects are
comparatively less than that of synthetic one. Different plant part such as leaves ,
stem, bark ,root,rhizomes are used in cosmetics. There are different methods of
extraction are used .The plant should be identified and then a standardized
materials like extract, tincture should be used.

CREAMS

Cream is a topical preparation consist of medicament dissolved or suspended in

water removable or emollient bases, intended for application on skin or
accessible mucous membrane to provide localized and sometimes systemic
effects at the site of application. The use of finger tip unit concept may be helpful
in guiding how much topical cream is required to cover different areas.

TYPES

1.Oil in Water (O/W)-creams which are composed of small droplets of oil

dispersed in a continouse watery phase.
2.Water in Oil (O/W)-creams which are composed of small droplets of water
dispersed in continouse oily phase.

USES

1.To aid in the retension of moisture

2.cleansing

3.The provision of a barrier to protect the skin. This may be physical or chemical
barrier or as with sunscreen.

4. Emollient effects

5. Vehicle for drug substance such as local anaesthetics, as anti inflammatories,

hormones ,antibiotics ,antifungals or counter irritant.

COMPOSITION

The main ingredients of cream:

1. Emulsifier

2. Thickening agent

3. oil

4. Active constituent-Saffron and Papaya extract

EMULSIFIER

Emulsifier are used in creams and lotions to mix water with oils. since water and
oil do not mix but stay separated.An additional agent emulsifiers are necessary to
form a homogenous mixture keeping water and oil together.There are two types
of emulsifiers:oil in water(O/W) emulsifier that keep oil drops packed in water
while water in oil (W/O) emulsifier keep water drops packed in oil .W/O
emulsifiers are used for a fatty feel.eg:night and sun protection creams.O/W
emulsifiers are used in moisturizing products .eg:body lotions ,day creams.
Example: O/W emulsifiers: Polysorbate, Cetostearyl alcohol

W/O emulsifier: Sorbitan stearate, Lecithin

THICKENERS

Thickners are used very often in various cosmetic product . they enhance the
consistency , volume and viscosity of cosmetic products, there by providing more
stability and better performance.

Example: Bees wax,cocoa butter,woolwax,cetylalcohol.

OILS

Oils are primarily used for skin softening and smoothing properties and also used
to adjust the consistency and appearance of cream. Oil soluble herbal ingredients
like resins dissolve and become incorporated into these phase which give cream
richer and heavier feel. Many oils are susceptible to oxidation or rancidification
over a period of time.

Example: almond oil, sesame oil, sandal oil

USES

Cosmetics are used to enhance or protect the appearance/odour of human body.

Cosmetics act as bridge between personel care product and pharmacueticals.

Cosmetics has been the consumers trend towards healthy lifestyle.
Cosmetics does not change the skin,it is just used to cover and

beautify skin.

AIM AND OBJECTIVE

The main aim of the work to formulate and prepare a cosmetic cream which
matches the needs like anti-aging and preventing pigmentation.

The specific aim deals with the development of a herbal formulation that contains
Saffron and papaya extract and to characterize the above for a better dosage
form.

PLAN OF WORK

1.Selection of Active Drugs

2.Selection of excipients

3.Collection and extraction of active drug

4.Formulation of cream

5.Preparation of cream

6.Evaluation of cream

RELEVANCE OF WORK

 Cosmetics are used to enhance your appearance.

 The importance of cosmetics has increased as many people want to stay
young and attractive.
  Cosmetics are available in both herbal and non herbal formulation
 Herbal formulation are widely used due to less side effect.
 In our formulation crude drug is directly added rather than extracting
particular active constituents in order to reduce side effect.
 They also have additional benefits for skin protection.

LITERATURE REVIEW

1.SKIN CARE WITH HERBAL EXFOLIENTS

Exfoliation is the process of removal of removing the old, dead skin cells that cling
to the skin’s outermost surface. The two types ofexfoliation are mechanical and
chemical. People’s opportunities for seeking dermatological assistance for a
myriad of conditions,including acne, rosacea, striae, photodamage, and skin
cancers have increased in recent years. Chronological aging is a process of
intrinsic or normal aging of the skin. Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light
leads to photodamage of the skin, which is the leading cause of extrinsic aging, or
alteration of the skin due to environmental exposure.Management options for
photodamaged skin include alpha-hydroxy acids, antioxidants, antiandrogens,
moisturizers and exfoliants. Many treatments are available to reverse the
damage, but their efficacy remains to be proven and they may also produce
unwanted side effects. Herbal Exfoliant is a cleansing formula and treatment mask
that detoxifies the skin and stimulates its metabolism. It enhances absorption and
retention of moisturizing agents and restores the skin’s own natural moisture
factor. Skin exfoliation improves the quality and tone of skin by assisting in the
removal of dead skin cells from the surface. Herbal Exfoliant produces soft, supply
re-energized skin and prevents premature skin aging.[6]
2 A REVIEW OF SAFFRON AS AN ALTERNATIVE THERAPY IN MEDICINE AND
DERMATOLOGY

Saffron is a spice derived from flower Crocus sativus L., is an herbaceous

perennial–cormous plant which is believed to show many pharmacological
actions. The plant contains important constituents like crocetin, picrocrocin,
safranal (main component for characteristic aroma). Safranal is the aglycon of
picrocrocin; those are responsible for many pharmacological actions. In ayurveda,
saffron is used to cure chronic diseases such as asthma,arthritis, skin diseases,
spasmodic disorders, digestive disorders, digestive disorders, kidney disorders.
Saffron is also useful in liver and spleen enlargement. Very few modern preclinical
and clinical studies have been performed on the plant. In this review we have
made an attempt to compile saffron as an alternative therapy in medicine and
dermatology.[12]

3 CARICA PAPAYA LINN : AN OVERVIEW

Papaya (Carica papaya Linn) is commonly called as paw-paw and it belongs to the
family Caricaceae. Papaya is commonly known for its food and nutritional values
throughout the world. The properties of papaya fruit and other parts of the plant
are also well known in traditional system of medicine. During the last few decades
considerable progress has been achieved regarding the biological activity and
medicinal application of papaya and now it is considered as valuable nutraceutical
fruit plant. Papaya possess excellent medicinal properties for treatment of
different ailments. The different parts of the Carica papaya plant including leaves,
seeds, latex and fruit exhibited to have medicinal value. The stem, leaf and fruit of
papaya contain plenty of latex. The latex from unripe papaya fruit contain
enzymes papain and chymopapain. This review focuses on different properties of
papaya as a multi-faceted plant.[7]
4 .CARICA PAPPAYA :FORMULATION EVALUATION OF NEW DOSAGE FORM
DESIGN

Phytosomes are recently introduced drug delivery system andnovel botanical

formulation to produce lipophilic molecular complex to improve absorption and
bioavailability of phytoconstituents. The objective of the present study was to
formulate and evaluate tablets of Carica papaya phytosomes. Solvent injection
method was used for the preparation of phytosomes. Carica papaya phytosomes
were characterized by particle size,Zeta potential, Scanning electron microscopy,
Fourier Transform InfraredSpectroscopy, Differential scanning calorimetry, and in-
vitro drug release.The results showed that the average particle size and zeta
potential of theoptimized phytosomes formulation were 135.8 nm and −36.7 mV.
In-vitro drug release studies revealed that the cumulative % drug release of
tablets ofCarica papaya phytosomes was found to be 85.32%. Cytotoxic effect
ofaqueous extracts and phytosomes on human leukemia cell line K-562 was
evaluated by performing Sulforhodamine B (SRB) assay. The GI50 value of
aqueous extractand F2 was found to be 75.2 μg/mL and 48.4 μg/Ml respectively.
The result showed that the phytosomes exhibited better anticancer activity than
Carica papaya aqueous extract. Hence it was concluded that Carica papaya
phytosomes serve as useful novel drug delivery system and provide more
bioavailability than conventional [3]

5. SKIN CREAM AS TOPICAL DRUG DELIVERY SYSTEM:A REVIEW

From time immemorial creams as topical preparations are considered an

important part of cosmetic products. Creams may be considered pharmaceutical
products as even cosmetic creams are based on techniques developed by
pharmacy and un-medicated creams are highly used in a variety of skin conditions
In ancient times, creams were simply prepared by mixing of two or more
ingredients using water as the solvent. With the advancement in technology,
newer methods are used for formulation of creams. These semi solid preparations
are safe to use bnt to use cream by all the age group of people. The types of
creams with their examples are discussed in this article. In coming future, more
advanced technologies and methods will be used for preparation, formulation
and evaluation of creams. Also the demand of herbal constituents based creams
are increasing day by day.[2]

6.MEDICINAL USES OF CARICA PAPAYA

Medicinal plants have been used for various diseases traditionally in many
countries, because of its advantages like easy availability, effective and
economical in therapeutics. Carica papaya, also called as pawpaw is traditionally
cultivated for fruit. Carica papaya belonging to the genus Carica. It contains the
enzyme papain, chymopapain which is biologically active and has medicinal and
nutritional values. All parts of the plant like leaves, fruits, seeds, flowers and roots
can be used by humans as food and medicinal purposes. This plant has
therapeutic uses like anti-amoebic, anti-microbial, anti fertility activity, anti-
ulcerogenic, anti-fungal, antitumor, hypolipidaemic and employ in wound-healing
activity, free radical scavenging activity, diuretic activity, uterotonic activity.[9]

7.POLY HERBAL ANTI AGING COMETICS : THE MAJOR PLAYERS AND RECENT
MARKET TRENDS

Aging in humans is an invertible process that occurs at one stage of a person's life.
This process is a result of continual damage of cellular DNA and protein and
affects different parts of a person body. As result, to slow down the process,
different polyherbal anti- aging cosmetics have been developed and set into
market to address the process. Hence, this research was conducted with an
objective to analyze the major polyherbal plants used, most preferred
formulations and the players in the market through different pharmacological,
pharmacognosy studies, recent cosmetic market trends and statistical data
obtained from a survey in Haryana, India and Tanzania. It was found that, a lot of
plants have emerged in the field but the commonly used were turmeric, Aloe
vera,neem and jojoba. These anti-aging cosmetics have shown to play a vital role
in the field having a vast number of benefits. As result, this work sets a ground for
future development of advanced polyherbal anti-aging cosmetics after taking into
account an analysis of the top herbal plants used prior to the major players in the
market field.[10]

8.DOES SAFFRON HAVE ANTI SOLAR AND MOISTURIZING EFFECTS ?

The objective of this study was to investigate the effects of saffron as a natural
sunscreen and moisturizer. The pollens of the saffron were dried and powdered in
a grinder. The experimental formulations included a homosalate (8%) lotion
reference, lotions with 2, 4 and 8% of grinded saffron, and the control lotion base
without saffron. The lotions containing saffron were prepared like homosalate
lotion reference according to FDA . The sun protection factors (SPFs) of the
formulations were determined by an in vitro spectrophotometry method. The
moisture contents of the skin before application and after 30 min and 3, 5 and 7 h
post-application of formulations were measured in human volunteers using
Corneometer. The results indicated that, there was no significant difference
between the SPF values of the 4% saffron lotion and homosalate lotion reference.
However, the SPF of 8% saffron lotion was significantly more than that of
homosalate lotion reference. These results showed that in equal concentrations
saffron lotion could act as a better antisolar agent compared to homosalate.
Furthermore, there were no significant differences in skin moisture saffron lotions
and the control lotion without saffron during the 7 h post-application period.
Saffron can be used as a natural UV absorbing agent. The 4% saffron lotion
showed an SPF value equivalent to the 8% homosalate lotion reference by an in
vitro method. There were no significant differences of skin moisture contents
after application of the saffron lotions and the control base lotion without
saffron.[11]

9.FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF HERBAL MULTI PURPOSE CREAM

Herbal Medicine sometimes referred to as Herbalism or Botanical Medicine, is the

use of herbs for their therapeutic or medicinal value. The herb is a plant or plant
part valued for its medicinal, aromatic qualities. Herb plants produce and contain
a variety of chemical substances that act upon the body. The Herbal Cosmetics
defined as beauty products, which possess desirable physiological activities, such
as skin healing, smoothing, and appearance, enhancing and conditioning
properties because of herbal ingredients. The herbal 88prepared and evaluted
with an aim to design and developed new formula for herbal multipurpose cream.
Formulations were evaluated for various physicochemical parameters include
appearance, type of emulsion, Stability of color and odor, extrubility, pH, Texture,
feel upon application, particulate contamination, spredability, etc. Formulation C
was found to best with regards to its used and demonstrating better product
stability. Such a superior performing stable formulation could be attributed to its
use.[1]

10.TRADITIONAL AND MEDICINAL USES OF CARICA PAPAYA

Papaya, botanical name Carica papaya, is an lozenge tropical fruit, often seen in
orange-red, yellow-green and yellow-orange hues, with a rich orange pulp. The
fruit is not just delicious and healthy, but whole plant parts, fruit, roots, bark,
peel, seeds and pulp are also known to have medicinal properties. The many
benefits of papaya owed due to high content of Vitamins A, B and C, proteolytic
enzymes like papain and chymopapain which have antiviral, antifungal and
antibacterial properties. Carica papaya can be used for treatment of a
amenorrhoea, general debility, expel worms and stimulate reproductive organs
and many, as a result Carica papaya can be regarded as a Neutraceutical. The
present article reviews the pharmacological uses of Carica papaya and side/toxic
effects. Carica papaya contains an enzyme known as papain which is present in
the bark, leaves and fruit.The milky juice is extracted, dried and used as a chewing
gum for digestive problems, toothpaste and meat tenderizers. It also contains
many biological active compounds including chymopapain and papain which is
the ingredient that aids digestive system, and again used in treatment of
arthritis.[4]

REFERENCE

1. Laxmi Banjare and Pranita Kashyap. FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF

HERBAL MULTIPURPOSE CREAM, 5(1) ed. Chhattisgarh: International Journal of
Pharmacy & Therapeutics; 2014.

2. Tanesh Sahu, Tarun Patel, Sagar Sahu, Bina Gidwani. Skin Cream as Topical Drug
Delivery System: A Review, 4(5) ed. Chhattisgarh: Journal of Pharmaceutical and
Biological Sciences; 2016.
3. Swati Patil and Priyanka Ayare. CARICA PAPAYA: FORMULATION AND
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4. Aravind. G , Debjit Bhowmik , Duraivel. S , Harish. G . Traditional and Medicinal

Uses of Carica papaya, 1 ed. Andhra Pradesh: Journal of Medicinal Plants Studies;
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5.Ashwini S Dhase, Somishwar S Khadbadi, Shweta S Saboo Formulation and

Evaluation of Vanishing Herbal Cream of Crude Drugs. Formulation and Evaluation
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6. Nilani Packianathan, Ruckmani Kandasamy. Skin Care with Herbal Exfoliants,

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7. Vijay Yogiraj, Pradeep Kumar Goyal, Chetan Singh Chauhan, Anju Goyal,
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Ghasemi, Amirhossein Ahmadi. The Effect of Saffron (Crocus Sativus) Extract for
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9. Anitha B, Raghu N, Gopenath TS, Karthikeyan M, Gnanasekaran
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10. Dr. Prerna Sarup, Majule S. A., Manisha Bhatia. Polyherbal Anti-
AgeingCosmetics: The Major Players and Recent Market Trends, 46(1) ed.
Haryana:International Journal Of Pharmaceutical Science; 2017..

11. Shiva Golmohammadzadeha , Mahmoud Reza Jaafarib and Hossein

Hosseinzadehc. Does Saffron Have Antisolar and Moisturizing Effects?, 9(2) ed.
Iran: Iranian Journal of Pharmaceutical Research; 2009.

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