INTRODUCTION

GENERAL
This section has the description, repair and adjustment
procedures for the W/B40CL and W/B40–60XL units.
A troubleshooting table for the lift mechanism is at the
end of this section. The lift mechanism is operated by
the hydraulic system. The lift mechanism raises the
fork weldment.
DESCRIPTION (See FIGURE 1.)
Most of the lift mechanism fastens between the main
frame and fork weldments. The parts of the lift mecha-
nism are the cylinder, links, tension rods and load
wheel assemblies. The cylinder fastens between the
main frame and the fork weldments. Four links also
fasten between the weldments. Each tension rod fas-
tens between a bottom link and a wheel support. When
the cylinder retracts, it lifts the fork weldment and
makes the links move. When the bottom links move,
they pull each tension rod to make the wheel supports
move down. This action raises the tips of the forks.

1. MAIN FRAME
2. FORK FRAME
3. CYLINDER
4. LINKS
5. TENSION ROD
6. WHEEL SUPPORT
7. TIPS

B40CL SHOWN
(OTHER UNITS SIMILAR)

FIGURE 1. THE LIFT MECHANISM

1
 REPAIRS
REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY (See 2. W/B40–60XL Resistor Units – THE ELEC-
FIGURE 2. through FIGURE 5.) TRICAL SYSTEM 2200 SRM 279

Some parts of the electrical or hydraulic systems must
be removed for access to parts of the lift mechanism.
The following list has the sections giving the correct re-
moval and installation procedures. Select the section
by the truck series and the system that includes the
parts that must be removed.
Electrical System:
1. W/B40CL Resistor Units – THE ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM 2200 SRM 120
3. All SCR Units – CABLEFORM CONTROL,
Repair 2200 SRM 185
Hydraulic System:
1. W/B40CL – THE WALKIE HYDRULIC SYS-
TEM (Stone) 1900 SRM 160
2. W/B40–60XL – THE WALKIE HYDRAULIC
SYSTEM (Fenner Stone) 1900 SRM 278

*W/B40CL
**W/B40–60XL

1. FORK FRAME 8. LOAD WHEEL ASSEMBLY 15. SHIM

2. FORK 9. WHEEL SUPPORT 16. BUSHING
3. TIP 10. ANCHOR PIN 17. SHAFT
4. MAIN FRAME 11. COTTER PIN 18. PIN
5. CYLINDER 12. ROD END 19. EYEBOLT
6. LINK 13. SETSCREW 20. CLEVIS
7. TENSION ROD 14. JAM NUT 21. KEEPER
22. NUT

FIGURE 2. LIFT MECHANISM

2
Separate parts of the lift mechanism can be removed
without disassembling the complete mechanism. It is
not necessary to do EACH step of the procedure to re-
move just one part. This procedure has steps to remove
and disassemble the complete lift mechanism. Read
the procedure and do only the necessary steps.
1. Put a solid wood or metal block under each side of
the main frame near the lower links. Each block must
be approximately 75 mm (3 in.) thick and 150 to 200
mm (6 to 8 in.) long. The blocks must be thick enough
to just fit under the main frame. The main frame must
not lower or tilt when the fork frame is removed. Fully
raise the forks.
2. Put solid wood or metal blocks under both sides of
the fork weldment at the tips of the pallet arms and at
the battery. The four blocks must prevent the fork
frame from tipping to either side. Push the “LOWER”
button.
3. Remove the battery as shown in the PERIODIC
MAINTENANCE section. Remove the hood from the
main frame.
4. To remove the lift cylinder, remove the cotter pins
from the anchor pins for the cylinder. Remove the an-
chor pin from the rod end of the cylinder. Hold the cyl-
inder and remove the anchor pin from the top of the
cylinder.
5. Lift the cylinder and put it in position so that the hy-
draulic lines are at the top. There is oil inside the cylin-
der. Remove the hydraulic lines and put caps on the
hydraulic lines and fittings.
6. See FIGURE 3. and FIGURE 4. to disassemble the
cylinder. Do the following steps during the disassem-
bly of the standard or optional cylinder.
a. Hold the cylinder over a container and remove
the caps from the hydraulic ports. Drain the oil
from rod port of cylinder into the container by
pulling the rod.

1. CYLINDER SHELL 5. O–RING 9. BACKUP RING

2. LOCK NUT 6. ROD 10. WIPER
3. PISTON 7. RETAINER 11. LUBRICATION RING
4. SEAL 8. LOCK RING 12. BEARING

FIGURE 3. LIFT CYLINDER

3
 b. Loosen the jam nut and the set screw in the rod
end. Remove the rod end.
c. Find the slot in the cylinder near the rod end. Put
a screwdriver tip under the end of the lock ring as
shown in FIGURE 4. The lock ring can be
installed from either direction. The directions of
removal can be the opposite of what is shown in
FIGURE 4.
d. Use a special wrench to rotate the retainer toward
the screwdriver. Continue to rotate the retainer
until the lock ring is out. See FIGURE 4.
e. Pull the rod to remove the rod, piston and retainer.
f. If the piston must be removed, put the flat sur-
faces of the rod in a vise. Do not damage the
threads. Remove the piston nut. Remove the pis-
ton and the plug from the rod.
g. Remove all seals, O–ring, back–up ring and wip-
er.
REMOVAL
FIGURE 4. LOCK RING
7. To remove the links, use the rod end to hold the shaft
as the shaft is removed from each link. Remove the up-
per links by removing the pin or eyebolt from the end
of the shaft. Use a punch to carefully remove the shaft
from each end of the link. Use a press to remove the
bushings from the link. Remove the hydraulic pump
4
and motor assembly for access to the pivot pin by the
pump motor. Remove the two capscrews that fasten
the assembly to the main frame. Move the pump and
motor assembly to the side. Use wire or rope to fasten
the assembly. Do not disconnect the electrical or hy-
draulic lines. For access to the pivot pin on the oppo-
site side, emove the electrical system part or parts. Put
a tag on any wires or cables that must be removed.
8. Remove the pins or eyebolts from the shafts of eachr
link. Remove the four shafts that fasten the lower links
to the main frame and fork frame.
9. Remove the pin from the shaft that fastens each
wheel support to the tip. Remove each shaft. Remove
each wheel assembly and tension rod from the fork.
Check each shaft for flared ends. Replace all shafts
that have flared ends.
10. Remove the pin from the shaft at each end of each
tension rod. Remove the shaft at each lower link and at
each wheel support. Remove each link and each wheel
support.
NOTE: The lift linkage must be adjusted if the nuts at
the clevis are removed.
Bend the keepers to let the nuts turn. Remove the nuts,
keepers and clevis from each tension rod. Use a press to
remove the bushings from the tension rods and lower
links.
11. See FIGURE 5. and the following list to disas-
semble the load wheel assemblies.
SINGLE WHEEL ASSEMBLIES:
a. Use a small punch to remove the pin that holds the
axle shaft in the wheel support.
b. Use a press to remove the bushings.
c. Do not damage the bores during removal of the
bushings.
W/B40CL TANDEM WHEEL ASSEMBLIES:
a. Loosen the setscrews before removing the socket
head capscrews.
b. Use a small punch to remove the pin that holds
each axle shaft in the wheel bracket.
c. Use a press to remove the bushings.
d. Do not damage the bores during removal of the
bushings.
W/B40–60XL TANDEM WHEEL ASSEMBLIES:
a. The axles and wheels MUST be removed before
the wheel brackets can be removed.
b. There is a plug for the grease fitting on each
wheel bracket. This plug is removed during re-
moval of the bushing. Do not lose the plug.
c. Use a press to remove the bushings.
d. Do not damage the bores during removal of the
bushings.
ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION (See
FIGURE 1. through FIGURE 5.)
1. See FIGURE 5. and the following list to assemble
the wheel assemblies.
NOTE: Some trucks have protection for cold storage
operation (FRE) or for corrosion protection (CRE).
Special procedures are used during assembly of these
units.
CAUTION
Some W/B40CL load wheel assemblies do not have
grease fittings. Use multi–purpose grease to fill the
space between the inside ends of all bushings on these
units.
SINGLE WHEEL ASSEMBLIES:

This assembly and installation procedure is for a com- a. Use a press, a bushing tool or a block of wood and
pletely disassembled lift mechanism. Use only the a hammer to install new bushings in the wheel
steps necessary to assemble and install the parts that supports. The ends of the bushings must be even
have been removed. with the outer surface of the support.

1. WHEEL SUPPORT
2. WHEEL BRACKET
3. WHEEL
4. SHIM
5. BUSHING
6. NUT
7. WASHER
8. WAVE WASHER W/B40–60XL
9. BEARING
10. PLUG
11. GREASE FITTING
12. AXLE SLEEVE TANDEM WHEELS
13. AXLE
14. THREAD GUARD
15. PIN
16. SETSCREW
17. AXLE SHAFT
18. SOCKET HEAD
CAPSCREW

W/B40CL

W/B40–60XL
W/B40CL

SINGLE WHEEL

FIGURE 5. LOAD WHEEL ASSEMBLIES

5
 b. Install the bearings, wave washers and thread
guard in each wheel. Make sure the seal of the
bearing is towards the outer side of the wheel. If
the unit has CRE or FRE protection, fill the area
between the bearings and thread guards using
Never–Seeze.
c. Hold each wheel in the correct position in each
wheel support and install the axle shafts. Install
the pin in each axle shaft. Each pin must be even
with the surface of the wheel support.
d. If the grease fittings were removed, install them.
W40CL TANDEM WHEEL ASSEMBLIES:
a. Use a press, a bushing tool or a block of wood and
a hammer to install new bushings in the wheel
supports. The ends of the bushings must be even
with the outer surface of the support.
b. Install the bearings, wave washers and thread
guards in each wheel. Make sure the seal of the
bearing is towards the outer side of the wheel. If
the unit has CRE or FRE protection, fill the area
between the bearings and thread guards using
Never–Seeze.
c. Hold each wheel in the correct position in each
wheel bracket and install the axle shafts. Install
the pins in the wheel bracket and axle shafts.
Each pin must be even with the surface of the
wheel bracket.
d. Hold each wheel bracket in the correct position in
the wheel support and install the socket head
capscrews. Tighten each capscrew to 82 N.m (60
foot pounds) torque. Tighten the set screws.
e. If the grease fittings were removed, install them.
W/B40–60XL TANDEM WHEEL ASSEMBLIES:
a. Install the new bushings in the wheel brackets
and wheel supports. Use a press, a bushing tool or
a block of wood and hammer. The ends of the
bushings must be even with the outer surface of
the bracket or support.
b. Install the plug for the grease fitting. Use a punch
and hammer to make three dents near the edge of
the plug. The dents expand the circumference to
6
hold the plug in the bore. The dents must have
equal space between them.
c. Install the bearings, wave washers, washers and
axle sleeve in each wheel. Make sure the seal of
the bearing is towards the outer side of the wheel.
If the unit has CRE or FRE protection, fill the area
between the bearings and washers using Never–
Seeze.
d. Install each of the wheel brackets on the wheel
supports. Install the wheel assemblies between
the wheel brackets and install the axles. If neces-
sary, add shims for zero clearance between the
wheel brackets and the wheel support. Tighten
the axle nuts to 68 N.m (50 lbf ft.) torque.
e. If the grease fittings were removed, install them.
2. Use a bearing tool or a block of wood and a hammer
to install the bushings in all the links and the tension
rods. Install the bushings in the bores so that the end of
each bushing is even with the surface.
3. Hold the wheel supports in the correct position on
the tension rods and install the shafts in the wheel sup-
ports. See FIGURE 2. Install the pins in the wheel sup-
ports and the shafts. The pins must not extend past the
surfaces of the wheel supports.
4. Make sure the forks are on blocks. The tops of the
forks must be parallel to the floor and approximately
150 mm (6 inches) above the floor. Make sure there is
clearance to install the links, tension rods and wheel as-
semblies. Make sure the bottom edge of the main
frame has blocks and is parallel to the floor. The fork
frame and main frame must have the correct clearance
between them to install the links. Use a link to measure
the clearance.
CAUTION
Make sure the vents for the hydraulic tank and mas-
ter drive unit are replaced with plugs before tilting
the main frame.
NOTE: If the main frame and fork frame is completely
separated, another method permits easier alignment.
Use a crane to put the end of the main frame on the
floor. The side toward the battery must be up. Use
blocks to keep the main frame from falling. Use a
crane to align the fork frame over the main frame. The
forks must be up.
5. Install the shafts to connect the lower links to the d. Use a special wrench to rotate the retainer. The
clevis of each tenison rod. Install the pins in each cle- hole in the groove must be in alignment with the
vis and shaft. Install the shafts to fasten the lower links slot in the cylinder. See FIGURE 4. Put the end
to the main frame and fork frame. If necessary, add of the lock ring in the hole. Rotate the end plug to
shims between the link and the frame for zero clearance pull the lock ring into the correct position shown
and alignment. Install the pin or eyebolts to hold the in FIGURE 4.
shafts.
e. Install the rod end on the cylinder rod. Do not
6. Hold each wheel support in the correct position in tighten the set screw and jam nut.
the tip. Install the shafts in the tips and wheel supports.
Use groove pins and install the pins in the tips and 9. Hold the cylinder in the correct position for installa-
wheel supports. Install a nut and a keeper on each ten- tion. Install the anchor pin to fasten the base of the cyl-
sion rod. Install each tension rod in the clevis and inder to the main frame. Install the cotter pin in the an-
loosely install the other keepers and nuts. chor pin. Move the cylinder rod to align the rod end
with the mount on the fork frame. Install the anchor
7. Install the shafts to fasten the upper links to the main
pin and cotter pin. The rod length will be adjusted at
frame and the fork frame. If necessary, add shims be-
the rod end later.
tween the link and frame for zero clearance and align-
ment. Install the pins or eyebolts to hold the shafts. NOTE: If the alternate method of assembly was used,
Hold the hydraulic pump and motor assembly in posi- lower the truck to the floor. The alternate method is de-
tion. Install the capscrews and washers to fasten the as- scribed in the note following step 4. Remove the plugs
sembly to the main frame. Install the electrical system in the vent ports of the hydraulic tank and master drive
parts and connect all cables and wires as marked during unit. Install the vents.
removal. Lubricate all grease fittings for the lift mech-
10. Install the hydraulic lines on the cylinder. The
anism as described in the PERIODIC MAINTE-
large pressure line connects to the cylinder port at the
NANCE section.
rod end. Use the adjustment procedure in this section
8. See FIGURE 3. and FIGURE 4. and the following to adjust the lift mechanism. After the adjustment is
list to assemble the cylinder. complete, operate the system through several cycles to
a. If necessary, install the piston on the rod. Put O– remove the air.
ring lubricant on a new seal and install the seal in
the groove of the rod. Install the piston and the
locknut. See FIGURE 3. Put the flat surfaces of
the rod in a vise and tighten the nut to 73 to 89
N.m (54 to 66 lbf ft) torque.
b. Put O–ring lubricant on all new seals, O–ring or
lubrication ring for the piston. Install the seals,
O–rings or lubrication ring as shown in
FIGURE 3. Lubricate the inside of the cylinder
using the oil shown in the PERIODIC MAINTE-
NANCE section for the hydraulic system. Care-
fully install the rod and piston in the cylinder.
c. Put O–ring lubricant on all the new seals, back–
up ring and wiper for the retainer. Install the
seals, back–up ring and wiper on the retainer.
Carefully install the retainer in the cylinder.
Make sure the lock ring groove is in alignment
with the slot in the cylinder.

7
 CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Check and adjust the lift mechanism as follows:
1. Make sure the following conditions are correct be-
fore beginning the adjustment:
a. The lift truck is on the wheels and all blocks are
removed.
b. The cylinder rod is fully extended.
c. The nuts and keepers on each tension rod are not
touching the clevis.
d. The load wheels are fully lowered and against the
stops of the tips.
e. The unit is on a flat level area.
Adjust the rod end on the cylinder rod so that dimen-
sion “X” in FIGURE 6. is correct as shown in the fol-
lowing list:
W/B40CL: 90 + 1.5/– 0 mm (3.50 + 0.06/– 0 in)
W/B40–60XL: 92 + 2/– 0 mm (3.60 + 0.08/– 0 in)
Use a bar to lift the weight of the fork frame and twist
the cylinder rod. The rod can normally be turned using
your hands if the weight is removed. Align one flat
surface with the set screw hole and tighten the set screw
and jam nut.
2. Tighten nut “A” on the end of each tension rod to put
tension on each rod. See FIGURE 6. Each nut must be
tightened so that each wheel support just begins to
move away from the stop. Tighten each nut “B”
against the clevis to the correct torque as shown in the
following list:
W/B40CL: 224 N.m (165 lbf ft)
W/B40–60XL: 375 N.m (277 lbf ft)
Bend the keeper over all four nuts to keep the nuts from
loosening.

1. DIMENSION ”X”
2. STOP
3. NUT ”B”
4. KEEPER
5. NUT ”A”
6. ROD END
7. SET SCREW AND JAM NUT
8. CYLINDER ROD

W/B40CL SHOWN
W/B40–60XL SIMILAR

8991

FIGURE 6. ADJUSTING LIFT MECHANISM

8
 TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM
Forks will not raise.
Forks will not hold a position.
Forks will not lower.
Forks do not raise or lower evenly.
CAUSE
Hydraulic oil level low. See the PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
section.
Hydraulic pump motor is not operating. Check motor electrical
power and control circuits. See THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
and THE WALKIE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM sections. See THE
DC MOTOR section.
Lowering solenoid or valve stays in the lowering position..
Control valve or solenoid is damaged. See THE WALKIE HY-
DRAULIC SYSTEM section.
Hydraulic line has a leak.
Cylinder seals have a leak. See THE WALKIE HYDRAULIC
SYSTEM section.
Solenoid or control valve is damaged.
Solenoid control circuit has a fault. See THE WALKIE HY-
DRAULIC SYSTEM section.
Damage to the tension rod linkage or is not adjusted correctly. See
Checks and Adjustments in this section.
Solenoid control circuit has a fault. See THE WALKIE HY-
DRAULIC SYSTEM section.