热堆肥

 堆肥过程是通过回收再利用有机物质而模仿自然的一个过程。
 伴随着分解，有机物发生了变化，变成了我们所熟知的腐殖质。在这个过程中，有机物质被土
壤微生物，蚯蚓和昆虫转化成了一种类似土壤的物质，这种物质可以在菜园/花园中施用。
 堆肥可以用来提高土壤的质量。它能增加土中的营养和有机物，有助于农作物的生长
 堆肥是利用好氧分解的原理把分解和回收的有机物质作为肥料和土壤调理剂
 在最简单的层面上，堆肥过程需要将一批被称为绿色废物（叶子，食物废物）的湿的有机物质
物料在等待数周或数月后分解成腐殖质
 可快速取得大量堆肥
 制作堆肥的基础：碳，氮，氧，水
 碳 - 能量; 碳的微生物氧化产生热量(高碳材料往往是棕色和干燥的)
 氮 - 生长和繁殖更多的生物体以氧化碳 (高氮材料往往是绿色的或多彩的，如水果和蔬菜
和湿的）
 氧 - 用于氧化碳，分解过程
 水 - 正确地维持活动而不引起厌氧条件
 材料: 大量碳资材与少量氮资材注意碳氮比例 - 25:1 至 30:1 较合适
 工具:柴刀、草叉、手套、铲子

褐料 - 富含碳质，干燥 绿料 - 富含氮质，潮湿
 棕色物质（含碳量高物质）  绿色物质（含氮量高物质）
 含有大量碳为主的有机质，有大量孔隙，  绿色物质可以促进堆肥过程中产生热量。
可吸附水份和气体分子  氮含量较高的有机质，可以加速腐烂，但
 例：撕碎的報紙或紙板、枯枝枯叶、干草、 氮资材比例过高时容易有恶臭
木屑、稻桿、碎蛋壳、蛋盒等等  例：新鲜菜叶、果皮、豆类植物、尿液、
动物粪便、青草（没有结籽的）、茶叶和
茶包、咖啡渣等等

 备注：
 慎重决定是否添加那些缓慢腐烂的物质，比如厚重的树枝、折叠的报纸、草木灰、木刨花和
修剪下来的树枝。
 这些东西都可以堆肥，但你堆肥的时候要注意先把它们分解，因为这些材料比其他材料更难
分解，尤其是在寒冷的气候下短时间堆肥时。
 如果可以，撕碎这些厚重的材料帮助它们更快地分解。

热堆肥的益处
 堆肥会产生一种有益的腐殖质，它将有机物还回到土壤中
 堆肥会减轻垃圾掩埋中有机废弃物的有害影响（比如：水污染，强效温室气体甲烷的排放，以及
各种臭气
 堆肥可以减少菜园/花园对化学肥料的需求
 堆肥可以减少垃圾回收的成本
 自己制作堆肥还可以节约钱财
 堆肥可以减少填埋垃圾所需要的空间
 换句话说，热堆肥可以将整个完成过程缩短，消除病原体（疾病）并将不需要的种子和物质分解
成非常好的堆肥，但需要比冷堆肥方法更多的人力和时间来管理及照顾。
 热堆肥能在短时间内完成，使成品在三到四周内便可派上用场。

制作热堆肥步骤

步骤 Step1： 步骤 Step2：
准备堆肥桶 将所有材料分层堆叠
 堆肥桶有助于保持地面整洁，减少被食物  以碳 - 氮 - 碳 - 氮 - 碳 - 氮 - 碳
残渣吸引来的动物 的顺序将所有资材堆叠成直径一米或高一
 可使用多种不同材料，包括细铁丝网、木 米半
材、胶合板、砖块和混凝土砖等  每层的厚度不宜超过 5-10 厘米
 根据堆肥桶的构造来调节桶内的空气湿度  将包括草屑在内的所有材料层的厚度限制
和温度 在 5-10 釐米内
 堆肥箱必须坐放在土壤上，堆肥的最小尺  每增加新的一层都要用水充分浇湿
寸 是 0.76 到 1 立方米，体积不大于 5 立  在中间可以放一些氮含量高的资材加速腐
方米 熟，如：尿液、腐熟的堆肥
 可採用黑塑胶布或麻袋作为衬垫，对温度  在正中间可以插入一根棍子帮助通风进气
和湿度加以控制  不宜加入猫/狗/人类的粪便、肉类、鱼类、
 在木桩上缠绕网状框架，并以报纸或纸板 骨头、油脂和侵入性杂草
作为内衬来保留热量  材料越细碎，完成堆肥的速度就越快 –如
需快速完成堆肥，纤维性材料的粗度应当
与您的手指相仿（2 厘米），长度则不应
超过 10 厘米
 肥料堆最上端应有覆盖物，如塑胶盖、地
毯、防水布等

步骤 Step3： 步骤 Step4：
维护堆肥 定期整理堆肥
 在堆肥桶里把各种材料分层混合好，让他 每周翻动一次或者两周翻动一次，清除堆
们均匀接触，避免形成大的团块。尤其要 肥里的杂质，直至堆肥完全腐熟
避免大量绿色物质压缩在一起，他们会迅 用干草叉移动整个堆肥到某个位置，等上
速形成厌氧块状物 一段时间把堆肥移回到原来位置。按这种
 可向堆肥加入堆肥催化剂或催速剂以加快 方式混合堆肥有助于空气在堆肥中流动，
自然分解过程，如海草、聚合草或荨麻叶、 加快有氧分解
少量血和骨头、马/ 牛/ 羊粪或商业堆肥 尝试从内到外，从上到下地翻动堆肥。把
催化剂 结块或者粘连在一起的物质打散
 洒上未经处理的木灰可帮助平衡酸硷度并 如果堆肥看起来很干，加水或潮湿的绿色
减少臭味 物质；如果堆肥看起来太潮湿，加干燥的
 肥料堆的湿度应与拧干的海棉相仿。如有 棕色物质
需要请加水，特别是在“褐料”干燥的情 如果你要增加堆肥的体积，在翻动时添加
况下 新材料，并把新材料和旧堆肥混合均匀
 如果保持堆体湿润，将加快分解速度。如 当堆肥转为无臭味的深色疏松物质，且无
果没有降雨，应该每个星期湿润堆体一次 法分辨其中的原材料时即可供使用
 以覆盖物挡雨，防止堆肥过于潮湿 至摄氏 30 度，颜色偏深棕色至黑色，温暖、
湿润、膨松、柔软而带有泥土香气
 堆肥需要升温至摄氏 60°C 到 70°C。请
如果对堆肥维护得当并经常翻动，可在短
不时检查堆肥的中心部分是否加热，在触
至 6-8 周内完成。如果从不翻动的话，则
及时应感到暖意
将需要 12-18 个月才能腐熟
 可向堆体中部插入一根小树枝或钢棒数分
热堆肥可以快速取得大量堆肥，但需要人
钟，再拿出来观察。如果分解已经开始， 力照顾，若不急着使用，则可以用时间换
树枝或钢棒应该会是温的 取人力节省
 堆肥需要氧气 – 请对其进行翻动和混合 将腐熟的堆肥 铺 洒 在 土 壤 上 （作为 护盖
以利于通风和加快分解速度。如果您有空 物），或埋入花园地下，还可以将堆肥用
的话，每两周翻动一次会有所帮助 于盆栽或盆栽育苗
 不宜用于堆肥的材料

 理论上来说，任何有机物都能用于堆肥，但在自己家中进行堆肥时，最好不要使用某些材料。

材料 原因
1. 猫狗粪便  可致病
2. 肉类、鱼类、油脂、骨头、脂肪、乳酪  会吸引鼠类
3. 非有机物，如锡、玻璃和塑胶  无法分解
4. 侵入性杂草，如蔓生狼尾草、鸭拓草、  可能在您的花园内外蔓延 – 但这类杂草在经过
茉莉 处理后可用于堆肥（参阅第 7 页）
5. 大量松叶或胶树叶  具对抗性 – 对堆肥中的微生物构成不利环境
6. 粗度大于您的手指的木质材料  分解速度过慢
7. 感染病虫害的植物（如枯萎病）  病虫害可能会扩散
8. 竹子、亚麻和甘蓝树叶  不适用于堆肥，堆肥公司亦不会接受（埋入地下
或送至垃圾转运站运往垃圾填埋地）
 待其干燥后可用作引火柴

常见堆肥问题
问题 原因 解决办法
1. 肥料堆发臭并渗出黏  通风不良  以园艺草叉翻动肥料堆
液  过于潮湿  添加褐料（如干叶、撕碎的报
 含氮量过高 纸、干草、树枝等）以增加空
气隙
2. 材料不分解  肥料堆过小，或过于干燥  加大肥料堆的体积
 由于缺乏绿料或水分，热度不  添加绿料（如粪便或血和骨
足 头）和水
 肥料堆中的材料过大  将材料分解成细碎的小片
3. 肥料堆吸引苍蝇、蟑  添加了错误的厨余  不要加入肉类/ 骨头/ 鱼类/
螂、老鼠和耗子等害  堆肥箱没有防鼠装置 乳酪
虫和害兽  将厨余埋在肥料堆的中心部分
 在堆肥附近放置杀鼠饵剂
 为堆肥箱安设防鼠装置
4. 果蝇(vinegar flies)  肥料堆的酸度过高  翻动肥料堆。添加更多褐料
 在肥料堆上覆盖聚合草叶
5. 蚂蚁  肥料堆过于干燥  加水及/ 或翻动肥料堆
6. 其他“小动物”，如  这不是问题 – 此类小生物是  您应当感谢它们付出的劳动！
甲虫和蚯蚓 堆肥过程中必不可少的一部分
 HOT COMPOST

 Compost is organic matter that has been decomposed in a process called composting. This
process recycles various organic materials - otherwise regarded as waste products - and
produces a soil conditioner (the compost).
 Compost is rich in nutrients. It is used for example in gardens, landscaping, horticulture,
urban agriculture and organic farming. The compost itself is beneficial for the land in many
ways, including as a soil conditioner, a fertilizer, addition of vital humus or humic acids,
and as a natural pesticide for soil.
 In ecosystems, compost is useful for erosion control, land and stream reclamation,
wetland construction, and as landfill cover.
 Composting is a method of recycling naturally decomposing matter. Ingredients, size of
the pile, local weather conditions, and your maintenance habits will affect the outcome.
Note that shredded leaves, chipped wood, and chopped food scraps generally decompose
more quickly than whole or large pieces.
 The process involves decomposition of organic material into a humus-like material, known as
compost, which is a good fertilizer for plants.
 Composting requires the following three components: human management, aerobic
conditions, development of internal biological heat.
 Composting organisms require four equally important ingredients to work effectively:
 Carbon — for energy; the microbial oxidation of carbon produces the heat, if included at
suggested levels. High carbon materials tend to be brown and dry.
 Nitrogen — to grow and reproduce more organisms to oxidize the carbon. High nitrogen
materials tend to be green (or colorful, such as fruits and vegetables) and wet.
 Oxygen — for oxidizing the carbon, the decomposition process.
 Water — in the right amounts to maintain activity without causing anaerobic conditions.
 At the simplest level, the process of composting requires making a heap of wet organic
matter (also called green waste, such as leaves, grass, food scraps) and waiting for the
materials to break down into humus after a period of months.
 However, composting also can take place as a multi-step, closely monitored process with
measured inputs of water, air, and carbon- and nitrogen-rich materials.
 Hot compost comes from a compost pile constructed with a balance of nitrogen-rich and
carbon-rich materials that are turned regularly, at least every couple of weeks.
 When skillfully done, hot compost can reach a temperature of more than 130 degrees
Fahrenheit, so hot it's uncomfortable to put your hand in the center of the pile and hot enough
to kill many disease pathogens lurking in the garden as well as weed and other seeds. Use
on the top surface of the soil.
 The advantages are clear, but making this type of compost takes a bit of skill and monitoring.
Some even use compost pile thermometers to make sure they pile reaches optimum high
temperatures.
 Cold, or passive, composting uses many of the same type of ingredients as hot composting
and requires less effort from the gardener, yet the decomposition takes substantially longer
—a year or more.
 THE BENEFITS OF HOT COMPOSTING

 Compost is the single most important supplement you can give your garden.
 Enriches soil, helping retain moisture and suppress plant diseases and pests.
 Reduces the need for chemical fertilizers.
 Encourages the production of beneficial bacteria and fungi that break down organic matter
to create humus, a rich nutrient-filled material.
 Reduces methane emissions from landfills and lowers your carbon footprint.
 Enhance your garden’s ability to grow healthy plants while reducing your volume of trash.
 The benefits of hot composting are:
 Speed. Hot compost does its thing in short order, making the finished product available
within three to four weeks.
 Reduced space needs. A hot compost pile can be built when you need it and removed
in as little as a month. A cold compost pile can take up garden space for as long as a
year, requiring a commitment in advance.
 Full control. Some gardeners like the amount of control hot composting gives them
over the finished compost. They can easily adjust the temperature or decomposition
speed by just turning the pile. To them, monitoring the pile is not a chore; it is an art.
 Sterilization. This is probably the #1 reason that gardeners choose hot composting
methods. As the compost pile heats up, many pathogens and weed seeds get fried.
 Toxin degradation. Are you using ingredients that were not grown organically? Hot
composting can break down and neutralize the pesticides present on that orange peel
and the residue of any medications you might have administered to your horse that are
now lurking in the stable bedding.
 No pests. Assuming the composting process is working correctly, that is. Most insects
and rodents will leave a hot compost pile alone. A poorly made compost pile can still
attract every type of pest from ants to raccoons.
 Helpful heat. The heat put out by a good compost pile can be put to work. One of the
most common uses for this composting byproduct is heating a greenhouse.
 In other words, hot composting speeds up this process to a matter of months, eliminates
pathogens (diseases) and breaks down unwanted seeds and the material into very fine
compost, but requires much more attention than cold composting methods.
 Hot compost does its thing in short order, making the finished product available within three
to four weeks.
 Proper temperature control, regulating the input of fresh or ‘green’ vs. ‘brown’ additions to get
a 2:1 carbon to nitrogen ratio and aerating, turning, and watering the mixture are all
important to maintaining a hot compost system.
 You can even add a compost accelerator with microbes to speed the process up even
further.
 ADD MATERIAL

GREEN BROWNS WHAT TO AVOID

（GOOD SOURCES OF NITROGEN） (GOOD SOURCES OF CARBON)

 Materials that are high in  Materials that are high in  Diseased plants
nitrogen are typically carbon are typically dry
moist  Leaves  Weeds with seeds
 Grass clippings or roots
 Coffee grounds and filters  Straw
 Fruit and vegetables waste  Dog or cat feces
 Egg shells  Sawdust (from untreated wood)
 Toxic chemicals
 Manure from herbivores
 Newspaper
(do not use if an animal is
 Charcoal
sick)
 Yard waste (best cut to sizes 2″ briquettes
 Tea bags
or less)
 Hair and feathers (human  Fats, oils, and
or animal, may be slow to  Paperboard (break into small grease
degrade) pieces)
 Grains  Meat scraps,
 Dried grasses bones, and
cheese
 Wood ash
 Treated logs
 shredded paper

HOW TO COMPOST

1. Choose a type of bin - Holding bin to keep composting piles confined to a smaller space.
Keep the bin 4 feet or lower for easy access for turning or have a compost tumbler or
barrel.

2. Choose a location - Your location should be a level, well–drained surface at least two feet
away from any fence or structure, with easy access to water.

3. Lay twigs or straw first - A few inches deep. This aids drainage and helps aerate the pile.
 4. Add compost materials in layers - Alternating moist and dry. Moist ingredients are food
scraps, tea bags, seaweed, etc. Dry materials are straw, leaves, sawdust pellets and wood
ashes.

5. Add manure - green manure (clover, buckwheat, wheatgrass, grass clippings) or any
nitrogen source. This activates the compost pile and speeds the process along.

6. Add water - As you build the pile to evenly distribute moisture throughout. Keep as moist
as possible (microbes require moisture to survive).

7. Keep compost moist. Water occasionally, or let rain do the job.

8. Cover with anything you have – wood, plastic sheeting, carpet scraps. Covering helps
retain moisture and heat, two essentials for compost. Covering also prevents the compost
from being over-watered by rain. The compost should be moist, but not soaked and
sodden.

9. Turn. Every few weeks give the pile a quick turn with a pitchfork or shovel. This aerates the
pile. Turning or mixing the pile periodically has many benefits, including: Reducing odor,
adding oxygen, breaking up compacted material, helping to destroy unwanted disease,
helping maintain beneficial microbes and helping maintain an optimal temperature.

HOT COMPOSTING, STEP BY STEP

With the 18 day Berkley method, the procedure is quite straightforward:

1. Build compost heap
2. 4days – no turning
3. Then turn every 2nd day for 14 days
DAY 1

Mix together ingredients by laying then in alternating thin layers of “greens” and “browns”.

Wet the compost heap down very well so it is dripping water out of the bottom and is saturated.
 Can put activator in the middle of compost heap to start off composting process. Activators include
comfrey, nettles, yarrow, animal, fish, urine, or old compost.

DAY 5

Turn the compost heap over, outside turned to inside, inside turned to outside.
To explain in more detail, when turning compost, move the outside of the pile to a spot next to it,
and keep moving material from the outside to the new pile. When you’re done, all the material
that was inside will be outside and vice versa.

Ensure that moisture stays constant. Put gloves on and squeeze a handful of the compost
materials, should only release one drop of water, or almost drips a drop.
 If it gets too wet, can spread it down, or open a hole about 3-4” wide with the handle of the
pitchfork, or put sticks underneath for drainage.

DAY 7 & DAY 9

The compost heap should reach its maximum temperature on these days. As an simple guideline.
if you can put your arm into the compost up to the elbow, then it is not at 50 degrees Celsius, and
is not hot enough. Best to use a compost thermometer or a cake thermometer.

Need optimum temperature of 55-65 degrees Celsius. At temperatures over 65 degrees Celsius a
white “mould” spreads through the compost, which is actually some kind of anaerobic
thermophilic composting bacteria, often incorrectly referred to as”fire blight”. (It appears when the
compost gets too hot – over 65 degrees Celsius and short of oxygen. It disappears when the
temperature drops and aerobic composting bacteria take over).

Temperature peaks at 6-8 days and gradually cools down by day 18.

Turn the compost heap over every second day (on day 6 and again on day 8).

 If the compost pile starts coming down in size quickly, there is too much nitrogen in the compost.
 To heat up the compost faster, a handful of blood & bone fertiliser per pitchfork when turning
speeds it up.
 If it gets too hot and smelly and goes down in size, it has too much nitrogen, need to slow it down,
throw in a handful of sawdust per pitchfork when turning.
 Using the this system, the Berkley method, methane is released from the compost.
DAY 11 to DAY 17

Continue to turn the compost every 2nd day

DAY 18

Just warm, dark brown, smells good.

When earthworms move into the compost, you know it is finished and ready, because it’s cooled
down and full of nutrients!
* Some important points to note:

 Locate your compost heap in an area protected from too much sun or heavy rain, to prevent the
compost from drying out or becoming water-logged and slowing down the composting process.

 Space required for for your heap should be about 1.5 x 1.5 metres, and enough space in front of it
to stand when turning the compost.

 Water each layer until it is moist as you build the heap. After three or four days, give the compost
air by mixing and turning it over, then turn every three days until the compost is ready, usually in
14-21 days. Remember, frequent turning and aeration is the secret of successful composting.

 Turn the compost using a garden fork, or even better, a long-handled pitchfork.

 In cold or wet weather, you can cover the compost heap with a tarp or plastic sheet, to prevent
the rain cooling it down, since the water will penetrate into the core of the compost pile. Even
though cold outside air will cool the surface, but not the core of the compost heap, by covering it,
this prevents some heat loss from the surface to cooler outside air, and retains the heat within the
compost heap better.

TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL COMPOSTING

TIPS DESCRIPTIONS
1. Location  When choosing a location for your compost bin, look for a spot in the
yard that is not in the full sun or underneath or near large trees.
 Avoid putting your compost bin near a wood shed or a fence, since
you want good air circulation to encourage decomposition.
2. Follow the  1. Chop larger materials as you add them.
composting 1-2-3  2. Mix the brown materials with the green materials.
 3. Maintain the moisture as damp as a wrung-out sponge.
3. Two parts brown  The best mix of nutrients for healthy compost is two parts carbon-rich
to one part green "brown" materials, such as dried leaves, mixed with one-part nitrogen-
rich "green" materials, such as grass clippings.
 Other proportions of brown to green can still create good compost,
but may decompose more slowly.
4. Provide air and  A compost pile functions best when the materials are as damp as a
water wrung-out sponge and have many air passages.
 Extremes of sun or rain can adversely affect the balance of air and
moisture in your pile.
5. Chop it small  Smaller pieces of material compost faster.
 Chop garden debris with shears or a machete, or use a chipper-
shredder or lawn mower to shred material.
6. Pile size matters  Compost piles can trap heat generated by the activity of millions of
if you like it hot microorganisms and this speeds composting. A 3- by 3- by 3-foot
compost pile is considered a minimum size for hot, fast composting.
 If you achieve a good balance of carbon and nitrogen, chop it small,
have a good volume of material, and maintain adequate moisture and
aeration, the temperature will rise over several days.
 The most efficient decomposing bacteria thrive in temperatures
between 110 degrees and 160 degrees Fahrenheit. If your pile is not
hot, don’t worry – cold piles can make great compost too.
7. Worms Can Help  Worms known as vermicomposting. Vermicomposting is a great way
to keep your compost going year-round so it’s ready for spring
gardening.
8. Compost Too  If you find your compost is too wet, add some dry material and cover
Wet? it. Use “brown” materials such as strips of newspaper and dry grass
clippings or straw to help absorb the moisture. You can also add dried
leaves to help cut down on moisture.
9. Compost Too  Add green material if your compost is too dry. Fruit and vegetable
Dry? scraps and green grass clippings will help add moisture to your
compost because they contain nitrogen.
 Just be sure not to add weeds, as they can reappear once the
compost is added to the garden.
10. Consider a  A barrel tumbler will convert waste to compost much faster than
Tumbler stationary bins since it allows you to churn to aerate what’s inside.
 You can build your own compost barrel tumbler in just one day.
11. Protect Against  You can limit animal visits to your compost by turning it frequently and
Animals keeping a good green to brown ratio (wet material to dry material).
 Also, make sure to keep meat and any leftovers with oil and dairy out
of your compost bin.
12. Keep Insects  You will have some bugs in your compost pile, but all those scraps can
Under Control become a breeding ground for unwanted insects.
 Some flies and beetles are common, but if bugs get out of hand,
increase brown material and try turning the compost more frequently.
 You can also bury new food waste under the compost to discourage
bugs.
13. The Smell Test  Your compost should smell “earthy,” not foul. While the point of
composting is to generate good bacteria to help your plants and
flowers, if your compost smells bad it could mean you’re growing the
wrong kind of bacteria.
 If your compost produces a foul smell, try increasing brown matter and
turning it more frequently. Also, make sure you aren’t adding meats,
fats or dairy.
14. Is There Enough  If the material isn’t breaking down in your compost bin, it may not have
 Heat? enough heat.
 Try adding more moisture and turning it more often. You can also use
a tarp to cover the compost and attract heat, just make sure the pile
doesn’t surpass a temperature of about 170 degrees F, as that’s when
the heat can start to kill off beneficial microorganisms.
15. Prepare for  Finished compost should be dark in color and will be crumbly, like soil.
Planting  If you started your seeds indoors this winter, apply a finished layer of
compost to your garden before planting.
16. Mix With Topsoil  After planting this spring, mix some topsoil with finished compost to
top-dress your vegetable garden and flower beds.
 When used this way, the composting material will supply nutrients to
the plant roots, while also acting as a mulch to protect soil from heavy
rains and extreme temperatures.