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THE

NEW
SOUNDS
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FEATURING
ORVILLE PECK
LIL NAS X
ONEFOUR
DOMINIC FIKE

TAMEIMPALA
KEVIN PARKER STEPS OUT OF THE SHADOWS
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Contents

January | February 2020

27 Brief 70 Fit
THE
Meet Orville Peck, the masked singer We all know meditation is beneficial,
NEW but how many of us actually practise
SOUNDS giving country music a shake-up; a chat
OF
SUMMER with Sex Education’s Asa Butterfield; it regularly? We consult the experts on
FEATURING
ORVILLE PECK
LIL NAS X
art phenomenon Daniel Arsham on how to do it – and stick to it.
ONEFOUR
DOMINIC FIKE working with Dior; and more.
72 Men of the Year
36 GQ&A A look inside GQ’s night of nights.
An honest chat with Justin Langer,
the man tasked with repairing the 94 A bitter pill
reputation of the Aussie cricket team Festival season is upon us but Australia’s
after ‘Sandpapergate’. pill-testing debate shows no sign of
being resolved. Is it time for a rethink?
42 Taste & Travel
TAMEIMPALA
KEVIN PARKER STEPS OUT OF THE SHADOWS
For a nation that loves to travel, we
tend to overlook our own backyard.
Here, the Aussie destinations to add
100 Dominic Fike
A colourful shoot with the Florida-
native who’s redefining pop music
to your 2020 bucket list. for the Instagram-era.

ON THE COVER
Jacket, $2700, and T-shirt, $1450, both
46 Stylist 116 Australia’s most wanted
by Dior Men; pants, $1525, by Stella Gucci’s Alessandro Michele on leading How OneFour from Sydney’s Mount
McCartney; necklace, $2999, by Hardy
Brothers; ring, $2950, by Tiffany & Co. fashion’s genderless revolution; this Druitt captured the attention of
season’s freshest accessories are a nation – and the police.
Photography James J Robinson.
Styling Petta Chua. seriously fun; the spas with treatments
worth travelling for. 122 Chaos at the top
64 Watch
of the world
The 2019 climbing season was one
Find a new timepiece to match of Mount Everest’s deadliest. We visit
your personality. base camp to hear the untold stories
of those who survived that infamous
66 Cars human traffic jam, as well as those
A look inside the luxury auto world’s who didn’t make it home.
pivot towards sustainability.

68 Inc.
Ten steps to achieving business
success with our GQ Men of the
Year Audi Innovation Award
winners, Sipp Instant.

12 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020 GQ.COM.AU


ROB WHITTAKER
MMA FIGHTER
Contents

PHOTOHRAPHY: JAMES J ROBINSON.

82 Tame Impala
With a new album
on the horizon, Kevin
Parker is finally ready to
embrace the limelight.

14 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020 GQ.COM.AU


Editor’s Letter

P ositivity is underrated. So is being kind to one another. 2019


could well go down in history as one of the darkest (and
perhaps also the silliest) years on record. So as we embark on a New
Year – indeed, a new decade – it’s more important than ever to act as
we wish to go forward. As well as embracing positive vibes for the
future and being generous in spirit, we wanted to begin 2020 with a
special issue dedicated to the sounds of summer. After all, there is no
better time of year than the Aussie summer, and I don’t know about
you but nothing raises the spirit or heals the soul better than music.
I’m stoked to have Tame Impala’s Kevin Parker on our cover this
issue. Without doubt one of the country’s greatest musical exports,
the enigmatic singer’s new album is set to once again blow both our
minds and eardrums when it’s out next month – in fact, for the making
of this issue I had ‘It Might Be Time’ on repeat. There’s no doubting
now is Parker’s time. International stars Dominic Fike and Lil Nas X
also feature as does the controversial yet compelling figures of Aussie
drill, OneFour, whose story is one you need to have on your horizon.
In terms of new horizons, after seven years at GQ and in Australia,
I’ve taken the very difficult decision to move on. And I know what
you’re thinking: what better time to head home to the UK than
in mid-winter. What was I saying about the joys of the Australian
summer, again?
It’s been such a privilege leading this great brand and while there is
so much I’ll miss fondly – not least of all the weather – I’m so chuffed
to be handing over the editor’s reins to Jake Millar for the March/
April 2020 issue of the magazine. He’s been a wonderful companion
during my time at GQ and he will be ably supported by Christopher
Riley, who will be stepping up as GQ’s deputy editor. Together, they
Mike getting in the first and the last of his barrels before he swaps Sydney for the Big Smoke. will provide the dynamism, direction and impetus to continue to
drive GQ forward as the leading men’s lifestyle title in the country, so
please join me in wishing them the best of luck.

PHOTOGRAPHY: JARRAH LYNCH FOR URBNSURF.


Thanks for having me Australia, and thanks for your continued
support of GQ – long may it continue. Enjoy the issue and remember:
stay positive and be generous wherever 2020 takes you.

Mike Christensen Follow


Editor @christensenmike

16 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020 GQ.COM.AU


Contributors

James Tolich Angus Fontaine Hattie Malloy


PHOTOGRAPHER WRITER FLORIST
How was Dominic Fike to Have you always been What was it like being on set
shoot? a cricket fan? with Dominic and his team?
He was a total dream. He has a I’ve been selling print since Fabulous! Dominic is down
graceful presence in front of the I was 10 and my paperboy to earth which made working
camera; a true angel. He was wages went on any cricket mag together wonderfully easy. I also
engaged and connected with the I could get my sticky mitts on. enjoyed working with both Petta
creative concept which always Allan Border was my God. Chua and James Tolich on this
makes for more powerful portraits. What are some of your early job. It was such an energetic and
James Tolich What’s your favourite shot? memories watching Langer? relaxed team!
The one shot from above with A hazy summer in ’93, Nirvana Can you talk us through some
him holding a flower. It reminds on the radio, the West Indies of the flowers you featured in
me of TV Hits magazine! in their pomp, a little debutant the shoot?
Are you familiar with his from the west being hit by fast The botanical elements I used
music and story? balls but hanging tough. He got in the shoot included poppies,
I’m not. I just want to shoot people 54 runs and 154 bruises. Safe orchids, rose bushes, kangaroo
as people. I never research them to say I liked Langer from the paw and water lilies. My work is
and don’t really need to know what get-go. usually inspired by the flowers
they do – this is how you capture Having spent some time I come across at the market; that
someone’s essence and what talking with him – are you morning at the Sydney Flower
I believe true portraiture is about. convinced he’s the man to turn Markets I was super inspired
Is this the most flowers you’ve the Australian team around? by flowers I don’t usually come
ever had on set? Hundred per cent. He’s a warrior, across in Melbourne.
Hundred per cent. Hattie was a searcher, a guru and a good bloke What’s the best part of your job?
amazing. I loved working with her. with an iron moral code. That’s I love looking back at my work and
You seem to always be on the precisely the compass Australia’s seeing how my style has developed,
move – what’s the best thing cricketers need right now. and how it also evolves over the
about travelling for work? Where does ‘Sandpapergate’ Australian seasons.
I live in Sydney and travel very rank in the list of sport’s great Any secret tips for ensuring
regularly to Paris and NYC. I enjoy controversies? we don’t kill all our house
hanging with my good friends Globally, pretty low. Here plants within the first week?
in Paris and New York but I miss in Australia, very high. For me, less is more. I have only
Angus Fontaine my wife and two boys a lot so try I can’t remember one that hurt one plant in my house, which
to pick and choose the jobs and more. Trying to explain it to was my grandmother’s peace lily.
opportunities that’re worth flying my 11-year-old son was gut- It’s about 25 years old now and
to the other side of the world for! wrenching. I give it all my love and attention.
What was your highlight of If you could change one thing Always buy plants you know you
the past decade? from the last decade what have the capacity to care for.
Marrying my wife/love of my would it be? Got a favourite ‘flower
life, Georgie, and having my two Complete, unified, resolute moment’ in popular culture?
beautiful boys, Taika and Jimmy – and immediate global action on I’m a huge RuPaul’s Drag Race fan.
all before 30! climate change. And Tom Petty Season 9’s final ‘lip sync for your
Who’s on your list to shoot to still be strumming. life’ battle when Sasha Velour
in 2020? Any New Year’s resolutions whipped off her wig, allowing red
Nobody. Let’s see who comes for 2020? rose petals to fly out all over the
my way. Speak less, do more. stage was simply iconic!

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AUSTRALIAN OPEN
As we count down to
the (often questionable)
MENSWEAR Australian Open style
MOMENT moves, we give you the
low-down on one of this
A new year country’s biggest sporting
means a new events, match by match.

season on the
men’s fashion
calendar. And
with AW20
looking to be
a wild one,
SUMMER STYLE
we’ve got our Now that it’s hot enough to
break out your shorts, tees
street-style and printed shirts, it’s time
photographers to bolster your weekend
wardrobe without breaking
ready to capture the bank. And, yes, we’re
all the can’t- here to help.
miss fits, from
just-dropped

WORDS: NIKOLINA ILIC. PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES.


streetwear to
superb tailoring
– plus all the
new digs from
AWARD SEASON
your favourite If it’s not enough to have the
designers. Golden Globes roll out the
red carpet in the first week of
2020, the BAFTAS and Oscars
are also heading our way this
summer. Head to GQ.com.au
Follow us @GQAustralia Tag us #GQAustralia for all the updates.

22 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020 GQ.COM.AU


The Columnist

DAN ROOKWOOD

Decides it’s time to have ‘The Snip’


H ow’s this for a stat? One in four men in Australia over 40 have had their torpedo decommissioned,
aka The Snip, aka a vasectomy. That’s the second-highest vasectomy rate in the world, after New
Zealand. But I never thought it’d be necessary for me to down tools. Y’see, my wife and I were told we
probably couldn’t conceive in the usual way. Having tried for five years without success, we ended up having
our twin girls via IVF. It therefore came as quite the surprise to discover that we were expecting number
three, a little boy. I’ll admit my first reaction was a celebratory fist-pump that actually my cock and balls
work just fine after all thankyouverymuch. But then the realisation set in: three kids. Three. Kids.
Our doctor recommended that my wife Sam give birth via C-section. “And while we’re in there, would
you like me to perform a tubal ligation?” she asked casually – tie off Sam’s fallopian tubes to ensure no more
surprises. “Or,” she said, turning to me, “are you going to get a vasectomy?” Oh! A pregnant pause. And
then, like that moment when the bill arrives and you and your mate both reach for your wallets at the same
time, I found myself magnanimously saying, “No, no, please – I got this”.
Of course, Sam and I talked about it at length afterwards. And since there are more potential physical
and psychological complications for a woman to take the ultimate responsibility for birth control (via
tubal ligation or a hysterectomy) than for a man (via the ol’ snippety-snip), it feels as if I should do my
bit. So to speak.
I try not to make a big song and dance about it, like the fairweather father who wants a bloody medal for
changing the odd nappy or making the occasional dinner. In the grand scheme of things, this is the least I can
do. But as my appointment with the cock-doc approaches, I sense a lengthening shadow of melancholy. Will
I feel less of a man? (Spoiler alert: actually, no.) There’s just something so… so drastic and final about it. (It is
actually reversible, albeit without guaranteed success.)
As if to read my concern, a text prompt arrives from the urology clinic, like a reminder for a restaurant table.
“Press 1 to confirm, 2 to cancel.” Having experienced the heartache of unexplained infertility for so many years,
it now feels somehow ungrateful to choose sterilisation. And then I think of our three children, whom we love
dearly, the little sleep thieves who drain us of what little energy, time and money we have. And I think of Sam
who has put her career on hold for the last four years. So yes, three is enough: let’s tie a knot in it.
It takes balls to have a vasectomy. I cup mine tenderly, almost apologetically as I sit on the gurney, naked
from the waist down, awaiting the urologist. The room is cold and unlovely and my dick shrinks itself shy.
The walls are busy with anatomical diagrams of male genitalia which look like charcuterie from a distance.
The doc is reassuringly matter-of-fact. He tapes my banana out the way like it’s an Art Basel exhibit (oh,
you’ve seen the memes) and then sets about my scrotum with a disposable razor to make a clearing. I look
away. “You’ll feel a small prick,” deadpans the doc as he injects my ball-bag with local anaesthetic. I do.
The procedure is uncomfortable but the urologist’s bedside banter helps distract me from the matter in (his)
hand. At one point I hear a sizzle and see a thin plume of smoke emerge from between my legs. The sulphurous
smell momentarily transports me back to high school biology. The deed is done in 15 minutes. Cut and shut.
“You’ve done the right thing,” says the doctor reassuringly as he heads to his next appointment.
I gingerly tuck my numbed nuts into the tighty-whities he advised me to bring and call a cab.
V-Day tends to be a Friday so that convalescents can spend the weekend lying flat in bed watching The
Irishman, wincing for tea and sympathy, and be back at work on Monday almost like nothing happened.
The following day I delicately inspect the damage to my undercarriage: I’m black and blue, swollen like a
ripe avocado. For a week, the pain is a dull ache enlivened spasmodically with sharp bolts, as if I’ve been
roughly kicked in the swingers and occasionally Tasered. But compared to childbirth? Nope, not even on
the same spectrum – so man up.

“You’ll feel a small prick,” deadpans the doc as he injects


my ball-bag with local anaesthetic. I do.

24 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020 GQ.COM.AU


For
knowing
where you
stand
Edited by Amy Campbell
Brief
PHOTOGRAPHY: LOUIE BANKS. STYLING: LUKE DAY.

Orville Peck
Cowboy, crooner, international mystery man. Meet the original masked singer who is making country music cool again.

GQ.COM.AU 27
Brief | Music

O rville Peck is tired of being asked


about the mask. He doesn’t say that,
exactly – he’s far too gracious and nice – but
his shift of tone gives the game away. We
don’t blame him, either. From The New York
Times to Gay Times to country music mag
The Rodeo, Peck has been quizzed, endlessly,
about the meaning of his famous disguise.
“The only reason I don’t talk about it in
depth is not because I want to dodge any
questions, but because I want people to have
their own take on it,” he says. “I don’t want to
lay it out and pin it down. I just don’t think
that’s important.” We leave it at that.
It’s difficult to talk about the rise and rise
of Orville Peck without recognising the
cultural groundswell that’s given country
music a popular shake-up of late. Peck
released his first single ‘Dead of Night’ in
late 2017, just before Kacey Musgraves’
iconic ‘yee-haw couture’ quote went viral and
Lil Nas X transitioned from SoundCloud to
world domination. By the time Peck’s debut
album Pony dropped in March last year – a
nostalgic soundscape that’s knitted together
by tangy slapback echoes, historical country
references and Peck’s deep, sexy croon – the
cowboy movement was in full swing.
“The timing was really serendipitous,” he “A year and a half ago, I was working two
says, “it’s actually been nothing but helpful to
me and that’s why I don’t have a problem with
jobs, there were times when I didn’t know
people talking about me in relation to it.” how I was going to pay my rent.”
The uncertain nature of the months leading
up to Pony’s release may or may not have where to place it, they didn’t know what to labels when they asked, ‘Do you have a band?
something to do with Peck’s unpretentious call it, they didn’t know whether the mask Have you played shows?’” He lets out a hoot-
attitude toward the wave (horse?) he’s found would work and they didn’t know how like laugh in spite of himself, pointing out
himself riding. people would react to it.” that it’s even funnier, given his label is sitting
“A year and a half ago, I was working two To conventional music fans and industry in on our interview.
jobs, there were times when I didn’t know execs alike, Peck makes for an unconventional “I had nothing. I spent a month scrambling
how I was going to pay my rent, I was hand- country star. He is gay, he performs in to find people who would play these songs,
sewing outfits, sending 20 to 30 emails a day disguise and while his songs are intimately and the first shows we booked were favours
to anyone who would listen,” he recalls. “I personal (in ‘Big Sky,’ he croons about past – I begged a friend to let us open for him just
believed in it, but there were times when relationships with a boxer, bull rider and so I could say I’d played a show.” The label
people straight-up told me this wouldn’t jailer – none of which sound particularly bought it and soon after, so did the rest of the
exist in the country world, this wouldn’t healthy) there is little trace of his former life world. Peck has barely stopped touring since
exist in the indie world – they didn’t know on the Internet. “I basically lied to a bunch of Pony dropped.

28 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


NEW YEAR, NEW MUSIC
Four more fresh albums fit for high summer rotation.
“Straight, white, middle-aged men HOW I’M SUDDENLY,
actually make up a big portion of my fan FEELING, CARIBOU
base. They probably can’t relate to exactly LAUV Marking
what I’m singing about but they connect to Lauv – “like Dan Snaith’s
the music on a different level,” says Peck. “I’d the word fifth album
like to think it’s because there’s a sincerity to ‘loud’ but as Caribou,
it. That’s what country music is, it’s sincerity with a v at Suddenly
combined with bold storytelling and the the end,” is the 25-year-old sees the Canadian producer
theatricality of performance.” American artist behind fetching offer more of himself, lyrically,
pop anthems like, ‘F***k I’m than we’ve heard before. But
Does he think the country scene is
Lonely’ and ‘I’m So Tired’ (ft. the surprises don’t end here,
becoming more accepting of artists who don’t
Troye Sivan) – both of which so buckle up and hold on tight.
fit the stereotype? “Slowly, yeah,” he responds.
appear on his debut studio Because just as the record
“Sadly there hasn’t been an abundance of
album, How I’m Feeling. But settles into that hauntingly warm
those voices in country – I mean, they’ve soundscape we’ve come to know
this is no conventional record.
always been there, minorities are an integral A true son of the Internet, Lauv Caribou for, Snaith swerves into
part of cowboy culture, so if anybody feels like has been drip-releasing singles unexpected territory, where
they’re not, they very much are.” “as they’re ready,’’ the end rousing instrumentals and a
He likes to think that Lil Nas X, Brandi result being a glittery synthesis goulash of samples collide
Carlile, Yola – and himself – are giving of tracks with a certain radio- to echo the suddenness of a
closeted country artists the confidence to friendliness that belies the change in the artist’s own life.
write and perform in the genre. “I think record’s existential themes. Yes, it’s all very clever. Out
the next five years are going to be really So 2020. Out March 6.* February 28.*
exciting. I also think that people care less
– they just don’t care as much about the MANIC, HOTSPOT,
details anymore.” HALSEY PET SHOP
He wears elaborate masks and doesn’t shy If you’ve BOYS
away from a rhinestone, but Peck’s most been rooting Pet Shop
* FOR FULL INTERVIEWS WITH LAUV AND CARIBOU CHECK OUT GQ.COM.AU

impressive quality is his dedication to the for Halsey Boys walked


music. “I’ve worked in the entertainment since she so the rest of
industry since I was 10 years old, as an actor broke onto house music’s
and a dancer and a musician, to varying the scene with ‘Ghost’ in 2014, sad synthy acts – Hot Chip,
degrees of success and varying degrees of this record will probably make LCD Soundsystem, Cut Copy
you want to fist pump and – could run. And they’re still
happiness,” he says. “I think I spent a lot of
shout something embarrassing, going strong. Hotspot will be
my life trying to figure out who I had to be
like, Get it, girl! Because after the 14th album to come from
in order to be successful, in order to be liked,
lending her voice to so many Neil Tennant and Chris Lowe,
in order to be happy. I’ve finally got to the
EDM toplines (some would and the third to be produced
point where I’ve realised that ol’ thing where
argue she carried tracks like by Stuart Price, who, having
the only person to be is yourself; it’s the best Benny Blanco’s ‘Eastside’ to won multiple Grammys for
version of yourself.” such popular acclaim), the his work with Madonna and
It’s a version others seem to be enjoying, success of which potentially Coldplay, is kind of a big deal.
too – Dior Men designer Kim Jones among overshadowed her solo Pet Shop purists will be happy
them, who tapped Peck to play the after stuff, Manic feels like Halsey to know Hotspot contains many
party for his Pre-Fall 2020 show in Miami, smashing pop music’s glass of the band’s usual tricks while
last December. ceiling to fully, finally arrive. those vying for something fresh
“Yeah,” he laughs, gratefully. “It seems to Like we said, Get it, girl. won’t be disappointed either.
be working out so far.” n Out January 17. Out January 24.

GQ.COM.AU 29
Brief | Fashion

Eyes on the prize The awards


to know
Generous cash rewards, celebrity ambassadors and enough spectacle to
rival the Oscars. Welcome to the lucrative world of fashion design awards.

W hen the International Woolmark


Prize launched in 1953, it was one
of the only global fashion competitions offering
practices in a concise way,” says Adams Dolan.
“What your values are, how you work, what
you’re interested in – these competitions really
emerging designers a cash prize. Fast-forward to force you to crystallise these ideas.” But he’s
today and the world of fashion prizes is worth pragmatic, too. If Adams Dolan was to win, he
millions of dollars. Kanye and Kim Kardashian- says he’d use the winnings to further develop
West are practically CFDA/Vogue Fashion his team, “to realise the relationships [he’s] been
Fund groupies; Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford are fortunate to develop through the prize”.
honorary members. Each year, Louis Vuitton But the Woolmark Prize isn’t Adams
ambassadors like Jaden Smith and Emma Stone Dolan’s first rodeo. Now based in Italy, the
present the LVMH Prize, and in 2018 the designer – a favourite of Rihanna’s – was
CFDA even introduced an Influencer Award. named a 2018 finalist in both the LVMH and
Ms Kardashian-West won it. CFDA Prizes. And this isn’t unusual. Samuel
According to the Business of Fashion, over Ross of A-COLD-WALL* is another IWP
$16.8m in prize money has been handed out by finalist with a bevvy of past nominations and
various fashion awards since 2014, when LVMH wins to his name.
– the luxury conglomerate that owns Louis In some part, fashion awards offer big
Vuitton, Dior and now Tiffany & Co. – launched industry players the chance to throw around
its own design prize. In 2019, the winner of the some money in the hope of discovering the Yves
LVMH Prize, South African designer Thebe Saint Laurents and Karl Lagerfelds of tomorrow.
Magugu, walked away with just under $490,000, But designers today don’t necessarily have the
making the LVMH Prize the richest of them all. luxury of ‘starting slow’ like young Laurent and
It might be an enticing factor, but money Lagerfeld did – social media killed that right off.
isn’t the only reason young designers enter And so, strapped with the pressure to burst onto
themselves in awards like the LVMH Prize, the the scene fully fledged, young brands need cash.
CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, the Association For designers like Adams Dolan, then, winning
Nationale pour le Développement des Arts de la the International Woolmark Prize could be the
Mode (ANDAM) Prize and, closer to home, the difference between investing in new technology,
National Designer Award – or so we’re assured. processes and people, or not.
Matthew Adams Dolan, an Australian- When the winners are announced next
American designer and 2020 International month, the fashion awards circuit will begin
Woolmark Prize finalist, says the opportunity again. But unlike Oscar winners, for young
to forge connections with Merino wool farmers designers, winning a fashion prize is just the
and mills while distilling his brand messaging beginning. It’s maintaining the momentum
has been just as valuable. “These prizes really that’s the real challenge. Winners of the 2020
force you to focus and talk about your brand and Woolmark Prize will be announced February 18.

Clockwise from top left, nominees for the 2020 International Woolmark Prize: Emily Bode of BODE, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Shin
Kyu Yong and Ji Sun Park of Blindness, Richard Malone, Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh of Botter; Samuel Ross of A-COLD-
WALL*, Serhat Isik and Benjamin A. Huseby of GmbH, Matthew Adams Dolan, Dilan and Lezan Lurr of Namacheko, Feng Chen Wang.

30 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020 GQ.COM.AU


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Brief | Art

D ior Men is leading the way when it


comes to today’s luxury fashion labels.
With one-of-a-kind collections shown in
Tokyo, Paris and Miami, 2019 saw the French
maison ascend to new heights as it continues to
shape a legacy likely not to be challenged for
years to come. While the genius of Kim Jones
is at the heart of Dior’s success, it’s the array
of artists the Brit has engaged that have helped
fill the new collections with a fresh sense of
character and relevance.
Inspired by geology as well as ideas of the
past, present and future, Arsham’s influence can
be seen all over Dior’s SS20 show in Paris last
June, where he collaborated with Jones on the set
design as well as the jewellery and prints used
for different garments. As the collection hits
Australian shores, here’s what the American had
to say when quizzed on bringing it to life.
GQ: Tell us how the collaboration with
Dior came about.

Daniel Arsham Daniel Arsham: Kim and I have a lot of


mutual friends. I’ve followed what he was doing
at LV, and even back to his London days with
The New York artist discusses his unique relationship with Umbro so when Kim asked me to work on this,
Kim Jones as the pair collaborate on Dior Men’s new collection. I knew it was an incredible opportunity. Also,
Words Mike Christensen my wife is French so the Dior house and the

32 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


significance of that name has been such a part of
my experience. One of the things Kim told me
from the beginning was that he really wanted
to find artists he thought Christian Dior would
be interested in if he was alive today. People
who were touching history, people who were
touching this moment in time.
GQ: What excited you the most about
working with Jones?
DA: Initially, just being able to access the level
of craft that they were able to achieve in the
collections. Because my first impression was,
how do we translate crystallised objects into
wearable things that are going to fold up and
be resilient? The jewellery really has a physical
quality that’s so similar to the actual work.
There’s inset crystals and everything and
they’ve done this kind of applique technique
to a lot of the garments where the materials
are embedded. Some next-level shit.
GQ: What was the most challenging thing
about transferring your art to clothing?
DA: Kim was adamant about how the translation
of my work was done through the collection.
They had brought a couple of samples to my
studio in New York and there was one that I was
looking at a little bit too long and Kim was like,
‘I can tell you don’t like it – we’re nixing that’. Surfboard chic
There were a couple of things that if they couldn’t From Disney to Dior, Pharrell Williams
achieve it exactly in the highest quality, they just to Future Relic, Arsham has combined
didn’t do it. We approached so many different forces with some of the most talented
avenues in terms of materials and techniques that creatives to produce other-worldly
I didn’t even know existed. collabs. As part of an exhibition
GQ: How do you ensure your work is currently at Selfridges in London, he
relevant today? designed a surfboard with Aussie
DA: Looking back into the archives, we pulled shaper, Hayden Cox of HaydenShapes,
out things where we were almost trying to like you’ve never seen before.
combine three eras in one: the past, this present “I grew up in Miami near the water
moment, and this imagined future where these and the ocean has always been a huge
objects become archeological objects. We talked part of my life. I can’t say that I surf
a lot about how although these words appear as but I can stand up on a smaller wave
if they’re kind of falling apart, but they’re made so when Hayden approached me, I’d
never done any kind of collaboration
of crystal, which is growing, so they could be
like this,” says Arsham. “He started
growing into this completion. That kind of
going into all of these techniques that
ambiguity sits well within my work and certainly
he had developed that never really
with what Kim’s done in the collection.
became part of anything. They were just
GQ: Can you talk us through your process
experiments. One of them was this idea
JACKIE NICKERSON; LEWIS RONALD.

of working? of having a clear board, which is what


PHOTOGRAPHY: ADRIEN DIRAND;

DA: My approach is to make things that we’ve done – with erosions so they look
I need and want that don’t already exist. It’s a like they’re broken almost. You actually
bit like alchemy. You’re taking one material can see through it. I assumed it wouldn’t
and transforming it into another and imbuing Clockwise from far left: the set designed by Arsham for be functional – Hayden injected it with
it with meaning. It’s an obsession for me but Dior Men’s SS20 collection in June last year; ‘Heinz Tomato helium and sealed it off so we literally
Soup Can With Sign’ by Daniel Arsham; an eroded Porsche
it’s the making that’s the obsession for me. n courtesy of Arsham on display in Selfridges; the translu- pressurised the interior on it.”
Arsham is currently exhibiting at the cent surfboard created by Arsham and Hayden Cox; Dan- The board will be available for purchase
iel Arsham; one of the wearable accessories concocted by
NGV International. Arsham for the SS20 Dior Men collection. from April at danielarsham.com

GQ.COM.AU 33
Brief | Culture

The
hustle is
Queer

Tan France Jonathan Van Ness

Bobby Berk

Antoni Porowski Karamo Brown PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES.

34 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


Brief | TV

Let’s talk about sex


We speak to Sex Education star Asa Butterfield, as he returns with a second
instalment of the most cringeworthy, bingeworthy show on TV.
Words Jake Millar

T eenagers seem to be everywhere


right now. Euphoria, 13 Reasons Why,
whatever TikTok is – people can’t get enough
Awkward as it may be, his mother’s frank
advice soon comes in handy when Otis teams up
with bad-girl Maeve Wiley (Emma Mackey) to
school bully; Lily Iglehart (Tanya Reynolds)
who pens alien erotica and is determined to lose
her virginity as soon as humanly possible; and
of them. But while many series focus on the become his school’s resident sex expert. Despite Anwar (Chaneil Kular); the unlikely leader of
dramas and difficulties of Gen-Z, few celebrate his own complete lack of personal experience, mean-girl clique ‘The Untouchables’.
the sheer awkwardness of high school quite he’s soon guiding classmates through their “It’s a huge talking point right now,” says
like Netflix series Sex Education. “I’ve noticed various sexual antics and escapades. Butterfiled of inclusivity on screen. “But I think
you’re pretending to masurbate,” Dr Jean “We all have our fair share of revealing or our show does it in a way that’s not just ticking
Milburn casually mentions to her son, Otis, at embarrassing moments,” says Butterfield. “Otis boxes because the characters are so real and so
one point in the first season. “Would you like to actually gets off quite lightly compared to some honest. You don’t believe they’ve just been shoe-
talk about it?” Turns out he would not. of the others in season one, but when we signed horned in to appease a certain community.”
This cringe-inducing dynamic between up for this project, we knew it was part of the Viewers clearly didn’t think it felt forced.
Otis (Butterfield) and his sex therapist mother story. And as well as that, it was never grotesque, As well as being diverse and funny, the show
(played by Gillian Anderson) soon becomes it was always done tastefully, to show an aspect was also hugely popular – Netflix claims it hit
central to the show. And as Otis’ oversharing, of the character. In a sense it was embarrassing 40 million streams within its first month.
overbearing mum, Anderson’s performance is at times, but you get used to it.” “You never really know when you’re making
nothing short of hilarious. Her delivery of lines One of the show’s key strengths is its diversity. it,” he says of Sex Education’s success. “We
such as “Jizz. Spunk. Man milk!” is easily one Rounding out the young cast is Eric Effiong knew people would talk about it because of the
of the highlights of the series, if not her career. (Ncuti Gatwa), Otis’ gay best friend who comes subject matter – it doesn’t shy away from being
She didn’t get to say that on The X-Files. from a religious Ghanaian family; Adam Groff bold and being upfront about its issues. But we
“Gillian was a treat,” says Butterfield of (Connor Swindells) the headmaster’s son and didn’t know it was going to be such a hit. Seeing
his co-star. “Me and Gillian didn’t have any
rehearsal time together, actually – we shot all “We knew people would talk about it because
of her scenes in the space of about four weeks,
so it was really intense and a lot of fun. But
of the subject matter – it doesn’t shy away from
yeah, Gillian is lovely.” being bold and being upfront about its issues.”
the response in the first week was amazing and
really reaffirmed that people wanted this kind of
show. They wanted something that is honest and
frank about what teenagers are going through.”
The show was renewed for a second season
last February, which hit screens earlier this
month. And while things mightn’t have been
too risqué for Otis in the first instalment, the
same can’t be said for season two. Not that
Butterfield is complaining.
“Otis is growing up, he’s got a girlfriend
now, so he’s finally exploring that whole side of
himself,” he says of what to expect. “And when
you’ve got 15 years of pent-up sexual tension
and it’s finally released, it is quite... explosive.
So he’s enjoying that.”
“Things heat up, for sure. But I came in
prepared and I probably would have been
disappointed if they hadn’t. We know these
characters now, we’re able to push things and
take them further. It’s exciting.” Season two of
Sex Education is now streaming on Netflix.

GQ.COM.AU 35
&A

Justin Langer
After a string of resounding – and embarrassing – defeats, a heavily publicised cheating
scandal and a cultural identity all but destroyed, Australian cricket was in a shambles.
Charged with plotting its return, the former batsman’s leadership strategy is a simple
one: treat your players with honesty and respect and, in return, they will deliver.
Words Angus Fontaine

M ost cricketers, you’ll watch their eyes turn from water to


stone, over a career. Such is the test of character this game
places on players. No other team sport is so individual an odyssey.
It wasn’t always thus. Langer’s first ball as a Test batsman almost
killed him, and he endured a roller-coaster career of struggles,
exiles and triumphs. The ledger shows 105 tests for 23 centuries and
Sure, there is batting in partnership, bowling in tandem and fielding more first-class runs than any Australian in history. But it was the
as a unit. But ultimately it is bat versus ball, bowler against batsman. billion bruises in between that made him a coach. Taking a missile to
Blink and miss. Flinch and fall. Fuck-up and fade to black. Game over. the ribs only to bounce up with a grin, eyes twinkling, was the
Justin Langer’s eyes have gone the opposite way to most. They Langer trademark. It disarmed bowlers, delighted crowds and
sparkle like coal. They say: Hello darkness my old friend. Bring me inspired teammates.
pressure to make diamonds. That’s Langer’s mission as head Australian Take the hit – then hit back. Sounds like a mantra for Australian
cricket coach – restore the dignity of a team that shamed a nation by cricket’s future.
cheating. And help them win – games and hearts. GQ: Last October, one of your stars, Glenn Maxwell, played
It’s said sport has no soul and no memory but ‘Sandpapergate’ tests a brilliant innings, performed a freakish run-out and did it all
that claim. Langer had a brilliant pedigree when he took the reins in with a smile. The next day he withdrew to deal with mental
May 2018 post-scandal. But it was character Australia needed. And no health issues on your advice.
one in the summer game walks the path of the righteous like ‘JL’, a Justin Langer: Often it’s the greatest entertainers and brightest
decent man, a Christian soul and one tough nut. This is a man driven talents who wear masks as an armour against reality. I see it a lot with
by family, fitness and faith – and a job that is more of a quest. sportsmen and people in the public eye and I get it because I’ve done
Meeting Langer today he seems still to crouch on toes as if facing it. I’d noticed the mask slipping with Maxy for the past 12-18 months.
a fast bowler. Yet his handshake has nothing to prove, and his smile He loves playing cricket so much he just doesn’t stop. But anyone who
is warm, unwary. At 49, he’s father to four daughters with childhood doesn’t stop burns out, mentally and physically. So I asked: ‘How ya
sweetheart Sue, a black belt in Zen Do Kai and a master of transcendental going?’ He said ‘Not that good actually. Maybe we should talk.’ And
meditation. Author of four books, including Seeing the Sunrise and behind his mask was a human being with a serious issue.
The Power of Passion, he counts Margaret Court as a neighbour, John GQ: Is the pressure of a cricket life greater today? Or are modern
Howard as a mentor, and both Jesus and Buddha as confidantes. players less equipped to deal with it?

36 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


Vintage Langer in action
during the 1997 Ashes tour.
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES.

GQ.COM.AU 37
&A

JL: Modern sportspeople get paid very well, that’s no secret. The hardest. They love the Australian team and when we let them down
danger is when they judge themselves on how much money they they hurt and they bleed. When I try to make our team better people
earn as what they’re worth. When I was coaching state cricket we and better cricketers, it’s those kids in the front of my mind.
tried hard to get players working or studying or doing things other GQ: The new mindset you’ve brought includes players walking
than cricket. Ever since I’ve been a coach I’ve made it my business to barefoot on the field before battle and cleaning up their own
develop cricketers as people. When I started playing I only got paid if dressing rooms after a game. How do those actions change the
I got picked in the first XI. So I worked desk jobs in a bank and for a culture of Australian cricket?
stockbroking firm. And I laboured, grinding the paint off swimming JL: Everyone talks about culture but that just means the sum of
pools and installing airconditioners. I had to put money on the table individual behaviour. There’s a perception that brilliant individuals
because cricket didn’t. It made me a better person and gave me an destabilise a team. I don’t agree. If a player’s individual character
understanding of how most people live. And after all day in front of a gets revealed negatively they’re out of the team. The guys whose
computer, I’d get to training with crazy energy for it because cricket character reveals a great team man with an honest work ethic, they’re
was love, not work. the champions of the game you keep around. And just because people
GQ: Is there a greater danger to modern players than too work hard doesn’t mean their characters can’t emerge, having a beer or
much money? a smoke after the game. Sandpapergate said our culture had to change.
JL: Absolutely. If I could give any sportsperson advice I wouldn’t say, How long will it take to do that? A million positive behaviours. Maybe
‘Watch the ball,’ I’d say, ‘Don’t do social media’. I hear this crap about two million. It’s infinite. But one thing is for sure. It will only take
‘it builds your profile’ but what really builds your profile is being a great one piece of bad behaviour for people to say, ‘There you go, that’s the
cricketer and a good human being. That’s number one. Steve Waugh Australian cricket team. Their culture is still shit’.
said to me recently: ‘I’ve got to a point in my life where I don’t give GQ: Let’s go back to the flashpoint. You weren’t yet coach. How
a fuck what anyone thinks of me’. But for a young person that’s hard. did you hear?
Kids want to be popular but that pursuit also makes them a target. JL: I was on the couch. My wife was in London so I had the girls with
I don’t do social media because I don’t want those voices in my head and me. We turned on the telly and I saw it. ‘Pray that’s not Cameron
that poison in my veins. Grumpy old man? Maybe. Or wise old man [Bancroft]’, I said to my youngest, because we love Cam at our place.
speaking from experience? See, I’m an old pro but when I came into But sure enough it was. I was numb. Next day I was at Fremantle
this job I let the scrutiny affect me. I kept telling the players not to get Markets with my hippy daughter Ally-Rose. We go every Sunday
distracted by white noise, but the truth was I was distracted. So when morning. She plays me her funky music on the way, then we sit, have
we got to England for the Ashes I didn’t read one word of press for five a coffee and a gozleme and we talk. For six or seven years that’s been
months. Man, it was so liberating. I de-personalised everything. And our ritual and people leave us in peace. But that day 50 people came
the journos I’d wanted to go Mike Tyson on, I just smiled at. over, angry, sad, wanting answers. Then 300 guys in hard hats bailed
GQ: Almost two years into life as the Australian coach, how do me up on a work site: What is going on? I didn’t know what to say. But
you define the job? I saw how much it meant to people.
JL: Father. Uncle. Brother. Headmaster. Policeman. Therapist. Soap GQ: Did you get to the bottom of what actually happened?
opera director! Sure, you’ve got to understand the game but I leave JL: One thing I’ve hopefully brought to this team is something my
bat and ball to the specialist coaches. My job is looking after people. father taught me: honest conversations can fix everything. I had very
If my guys are happy off the field they’ll be happy on it. Ultimately honest conversations with Davey [Warner], Smudge [Steve Smith] and
my bosses will judge me on win-loss, but for me the real challenge is Cam and I believe I have a very good handle on what happened and
getting results while managing the human side no one sees. why. I don’t condone their actions. It made me sick. But I understand
GQ: So in that sense do you work for the players or the cricket that as captain and vice captain the scrutiny is relentless and they got
community? tired, desperate. They were knackered, under pressure and trying to
JL: Both. One of the philosophies we’ve been find an edge to get a quick result. They messed
really strong on for this team has been making “It’s for cricket- with the ball. It was a dumb mistake and I don’t
Australians proud of us again. That’s not some understand the decision. I hate it. But I understand
bullshit slogan either. We have to restore pride
loving kids we that when you’re tired – whether you’re a cricketer,
after what happened in South Africa. I’ve loved work hardest. They a teacher, a dad, a business leader – you make
Australian cricket since I was a kid. Kim Hughes, dumb mistakes and bad judgments. You lose sight
Allan Border… those guys were my heroes. Later
love the Australian of what’s most important. Those boys lost sight
I was fortunate to meet and be mentored, even team and when of their responsibilities to the fans and public.
captained, by those guys. But for me they were still They lost sight of their mum and dad, brothers
the heroes they’d been when I was a kid, always
we let them down and sisters, and mates. If you make them proud, all
would be. So it’s for cricket-loving kids we work they hurt.” Australia is proud. Fuck it up and everyone suffers.

38 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


GQ: Given your workload, how do you safeguard GQ: Many say Hughes would’ve been captain
yourself against making similar mistakes?
“That’s what of this team. Instead Tim Paine is leading the
JL: Meditation helps. I took it up in ’93 when I tell the guys: side and, with you, restoring the integrity of the
I first got dropped from the Test side. I needed it
then because I tried too hard, thought too hard.
‘Cricket tests your Australian XI.
JL: Tim Paine has layers. People forget he was touted
I’ve meditated every day since. It’s no secret character. I know early as an Australian captain. Then his finger, the
I didn’t enjoy the first six months in this job and
because I’ve been tool of his trade as a wicketkeeper, got busted over and
this time last year it hit me. It was day three of the over. Eighteen months ago he was about to quit and
test against India. I snapped at a journo during the there. So let me sell cricket bats for a living. Now he’s led a team that
press conference – funnily enough, about Glenn help you.’” retained the Ashes in England. Adversity taught Tim
Maxwell – the next day’s front page was: ‘Langer Paine to be a leader. He’s much more than a wartime
Loses The Plot’. I was at breakfast with Sue and captain. He’s a ripping bloke, an elite athlete, well
she started crying. ‘I don’t like what this job is doing to you. I don’t respected by all and hungry for success. What more can you ask?
recognise you anymore.’ It was a turning point. I’m usually pretty GQ: He’s also 35. When Paine calls time, should Steve Smith
self-aware but I have my own mask and armour. This job is relentless. return as captain?
I’ve got 25 million people giving me advice. Even when we win, my JL: It’s about timing. Australia usually gets the right captain for the right
mind doesn’t stop. I go to bed thinking: Who do we pick for the next time. Steve has learned a lot from what he’s been through and his batting
game? How do I fix training the next day? What do I say to the since coming back has been amazing. But after the Ashes he was cooked. Is
press? I work 360 days a year and most of the time I’m rooted. But he ready for the pressure of leadership? We’ll have to think very hard about
these are the responsibilities of leadership: if I don’t get myself up, whether he’s the right guy at the right time. And whether he wants it.
everyone senses it. GQ: After being axed from the test side you wrote to Sir Donald
GQ: When it comes to perspective it’s easy to forget this Bradman for help. He replied telling you foremost to enjoy
generation of players is still processing the death of their friend yourself. Good advice?
and teammate, Phillip Hughes. JL: I encourage fun because it’s easy to forget why we fell in love with
JL: In October we were at Adelaide Oval where there’s a photo of cricket as kids. The carrots are big in the modern game and these guys
Hughesy on the wall. We were debriefing after a game and I caught can make a lot of money. But sometimes the more you play and the
his eye and said to the boys, ‘Let’s pause and raise a glass to an harder you try, the less fun you have. I teach the guys to chill and relax
absent friend’ and we toasted. Oh god, I still remember that day. when they forget how. And we have fun. At the Ashes I’d never heard
Ever since, Phillip Hughes has helped me find perspective. I loved so much laughter. Before that we went to Gallipoli and the Western
him. He won my heart, just like he won everyone’s. Hughesy was Front and shared a flask of whiskey at Lone Pine. Perspective. The great
the country kid who loved cows and smacked a cricket ball like he athletes – boxers, runners, golfers – are limber, loose. Steve Smith is like
was chopping down a hand of bananas. When he died he had 23 a hose in a swimming pool he’s so bloody loose! But he’s the best.
first-class centuries, Steve Smith had five. I probably had three at GQ: As a player you were never the best so did you set out to be
the same age. The kid was a gun. I loved his freedom, his smile, his the toughest?
attitude. I planted a magnificent native rose for him in my backyard JL: When I got dropped again in 2001 it was as close as I’ve ever been
with a Buddha statue underneath. I talk to Hughesy a lot out there. to depression. I was distraught. The dream was over. And I did what
GQ: Phillip Hughes was your first coaching project, wasn’t he? Aussie blokes do: I became more machine than man. I hit a million balls
JL: He’d just been dropped, rang me and said, ‘I want to come do and talked to no one. I ran a thousand hills waiting for someone to ask,
some training with you’. I’d just finished playing and was thinking ‘Are you OK?’ I internalised the pain. At one point, after another duck
of setting up a training academy so he became my guinea pig. Out and another blown chance, I rang my wife, my mum and dad and my
he came and mate, I threw everything at him. It was ‘Eye of the best mate to say, ‘It’s over’. They all thought I was going to jump off the
Tiger’ stuff. I was Apollo and he was Rocky. We were running on the hotel balcony! That’s what I tell the guys: ‘Cricket tests your character.
sand, sparring in the boxing ring, running a hundred singles on hot I know because I’ve been there and come through. So let me help you.’
Perth days. But I couldn’t break him. He just kept on smiling. And GQ: When your guys fall out of love with the game, what do you
he made me smile. Hughesy stayed in our home, Sue and the girls tell them?
adored him. One night the fire alarm went off. Smoke everywhere. JL: I say, let go. Let go of expectation. Let go of anxiety for the
Turns out a candle’s burned up into the ceiling. Fireys arrive, lights future. Let go of what other people think of you. Just go about
flashing. I get the girls downstairs. They’re crying, scared. It’s all your business. Look after each other. Have the courage to talk.
over when Hughesy wanders out, rubbing his eyes. What’s going Know who your mates are. Trust them. Don’t do it by yourself
on? Of course he later told everyone he’d rescued the girls from the because it’s not soft to have hard conversations with your mates. n
flames single-handed! Watch every game of cricket this summer on Fox Sports or on-demand with Kayo.

GQ.COM.AU 39
Unrivalled
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From the clean, contemporary lines to the dynamic and futuristic Matrix LED Headlights.
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Taste & Travel

Your F or many, Australia’s great charm lies


in its remoteness. This big, wide island
We’ve gone soft since our Burke and
Wills days and instead of dying underneath

2020
continent offers the rest of the world the promise a coolabah tree outside Innamincka, we’d
of travelling halfway across the globe to explore much prefer to follow every other Melburnian
the unexplored. It’s our unique selling point. on a Jetstar flight to Noosa during the

travel It’s an appeal that draws European


backpackers in their droves to adventure our
school holidays.
Thankfully, 160 years since the pair’s

hit list
isolated turquoise beaches and dusty outback exploratory demise, there are still a few among
tracks. Some even stay and work for three us who continue to follow in their footsteps
months in rural beach towns many of us have and seek out those under-the-radar hot spots.
Few people love an never heard of. Truth is, there’s never been a better time to
overseas trip quite like The great irony is that although others are explore this great land, with a whole number
Aussies. But it turns out all too happy to invest in the great Australian of regions and towns set to explode next
some of the finest hidden adventure, few of us are quite as willing to year, thanks to huge private and government
tourism treasures are explore our own backyard. While domestic investment, some clever entrepreneurs, as
right here within our overnight tourism is still on the rise, a study well as new direct flights.
shores – as long as you by travel website Wotif reveals that, on With the New Year upon us, we’ve put
average, most Australians have visited fewer together a list of Australia’s hottest hidden
know where to look.
than one per cent of the 15,268 towns, cities gems in each state and territory to keep your
Words Jeremy Drake and suburbs around our fair nation. eye on in the 12 months ahead.

The famously pink Lake Hillier


in Victoria’s Middle Island.

42 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


Clockwise from top left: Mt Mulligan Lodge; the trail leading to
‘Best of All Lookout’ in the Scenic Rim, Queensland; Little Hellfire
Bay in Byron Bay; Dirk Lodge on Dirk Hartog Island; East Kimberley
Festival in Ord Valley.

Western Australia operate a luxury eco lodge in a converted Debbie, shark attacks and back-to-back coral
It’s a state that is about four-times bigger than shearers shed, tucked in an idyllic corner of the bleachings on the Great Barrier Reef.
Texas and only the second-largest country island called ‘Homestead Bay’. dirkhartogisland.com If you’re planning your annual visit north,
subdivision in the world, after a province STAY RITZ-CARLTON PERTH be sure to look further afield than the popular
in northern Russia. And no offense to our The newest luxury hotel in the city has Noosa or the Gold Coast. Even ‘Bris-vegas’
Yakutsk friends, but WA is probably slightly opened right on the waterfront with 205 now has one of the most Instagram-worthy
more appealing in the weather stakes. No rooms and suites all with breathtaking views urban resorts on the planet, The Calile,
wonder this is where most of Australia’s 2020 of the harbour. ritzcarlton.com which has topped just about every hotel
destination secrets are still to be told. EXPERIENCE ORD VALLEY MUSTER design award in 2019. Here’s our top picks as
It’s also more accessible than ever. Virgin will What started as just an outback dinner this year shapes up to be a regional tourism
commence direct flights to Kununurra from under the stars for local businesses, the bonanza for Queensland.
Melbourne starting May 15 this year, rapidly 20th rendition of this iconic East Kimberley STAY MT MULLIGAN LODGE
opening up the East Kimberley to other major festival will also mark the unofficial start of Located on a private 28,000 hectare outback
cities, while Jetstar will follow suit with direct Australia’s love affair with this region from property, the lodge accommodates just 16
flights between Melbourne and Busselton, May 15 (the first day of those new direct guests and has the sort of pool you tell your
turning a once sleepy Margaret River into a west flights with Virgin). ordvalleymuster.com.au mates about. mountmulligan.com
coast version of Byron Bay. EXPERIENCE THE SCENIC RIM
According to new accommodation interest Queensland Just an hour from Brisbane is a rainforest
and booking data from Wotif, five WA The promise of endless warmth has always region as old as the dinosaurs yet it’s ripe for
destinations make up their top 10 most-searched attracted visitors to the Sunny State and as exploring. The Rim straddles the Qld and
places from 2019, including Perth, Scarborough we usher in a new decade with the promise of NSW border and is home to unique stays
PHOTOGRAPHY: ALAMY.

Beach, Mandurah, Margaret River and Broome. even sunnier days (thanks, global warming) like the famous luxury Nightfall glamping
But here’s a few more GQ secrets. expect no different. experience in the Lamington National Park.
STAY DIRK HARTOG ISLAND However, regional areas such as Cairns, visitscenicrim.com.au
This 80km finger of land sits just off the most Townsville and the Whitsundays have
westerly point of mainland Australia like a jewel been working double time to shake off the Tasmania
in the Indian Ocean. Kieran and Tory Wardle negative impact of the devastating cyclone MONA and Dark Mofo founder David Walsh

GQ.COM.AU 43
Taste & Travel

has certainly done a good job in turning sleepy For a state only slightly larger than NSW, STAY THE GLASS HOUSE, MOUNT
Hobart from a tourism afterthought into a with a population more than four times smaller, FRANKLIN, VIC
thriving destination. But forget Hobart, because finding a remote luxury getaway can actually Architecturally designed, modern house with
just like the rest of Australia, chances are you’ve be pretty easy. Here’s our pick of the bunch. endless views and a round plunge pool is a
already been to the Salamanca Markets. STAY PRAIRIE HOTEL, PARACHILNA popular weekend escape for a group of mates.
Instead, searches for getaways on Tasmania’s This quintessential Australian outpost pub viewretreats.com
remote West Coast are up by 65 per cent (with a touch of elegance and an incredible
from the previous year according to Wotif. restaurant) comes alive with 4WDs, ACT
Tasmania’s south-west wilderness is truly helicopters and thirsty patrons at lunchtime. Finally, there are reasons other than ‘work’
Australia’s last eden, where a road trip will have Its Executive rooms have views right across and ‘family’ to go to Canberra – multiple,
you meandering into sleepy fishing villages the Flinders Ranges. prairiehotel.com.au actually. Topping the list are Braddon and
such as Strahan, before you settle in at a luxury NewActon, two inner-city precincts yielding
wilderness cabin straight out of a picture book. Victoria & NSW the hippest new bars, restaurants and stays.
EXPERIENCE BLUE DERBY PODS RIDE Hotspots are hard to come by in two of the STAY MIDNIGHT HOTEL
Further north, Tasmania’s iconic Blue Derby busiest places in the country. So the trick to is The newest art and design hotel by Marriot
Pods have become a mountain biker’s mecca aim for the destinations and unique stays you gives its Sydney and Melbourne neighbours a
thanks to two local entrepreneurs. Retreat to can’t find on standard accommodation websites. run for their clout. midnighthotel.com.au
your own architecturally designed circular New online booking platform Riparide
pod after a big day of riding, tucked away in claims to help city dwellers from Sydney and NT
dense bushland. bluederbypodsride.com.au Melbourne book what they call “soul-fulfilling The heartland of Indigenous Australia, the
weekend escapes through storytelling”. Northern Territory is full of sacred sites every
South Australia Analysis of the platform’s booking data Australian should visit. And Ayers Rock is only
There’s always been a slight hesitation in telling reflects that more people are escaping the city the start.
people you’re going to Adelaide for a holiday. and heading into the great outdoors as a way STAY TIWI ISLANDS RETREAT
Yet the South Australian Tourism Commission to disconnect. Just a 20-minute flight from Darwin or two-
released figures in October that well and truly Its six most popular escapes in 2019 were and-a-half hours by ferry, this remote retreat
debunk this stigma. luxe tepees, glamping tents, tiny houses, on Bathurst Island is the brainchild of Matt
Number of nights booked by interstate cottages and beach shacks, all of which are Wright, the star of National Geographic’s
Aussies is up nine per cent on the previous year less about luxe-mod cons and more about Outback Wrangler – and the best archipelago
and there’s good news if you’re a Barossa winery, authentic adventures just outside the city. you can reach without your passport.
because expenditure is also up more than a fifth. This one is not to be missed. tiwiislandretreat.com.au

Clockwise from left:


PHOTOGRAPHY: ALAMY.

one of the Blue Derby


pods in Tasmania; view
from the pool at Tiwi
Islands Retreat; inside
Midnight Hotel; the
limestone formation of
main Wilpena Pound
mountain in Flinders
ranges national park.

44 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020 GQ.COM.AU


Stylist

Our pick of this summer’s


coolest new kit

This season is all about being brave, not boring. Explore the latest trends with some of our favourite
key pieces – from bags and bucket hats to ballet flats for men. Trust us, they’re a thing.
Photography Edward Urrutia Styling Dijana Maddison Words Jake Millar

46 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


GQ.COM.AU 47
Stylist

48 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


Chunky sneakers are taking a backseat. Introducing
Beach days call for a bag you can throw this season’s most fashion-forward footwear choice.
everything in, like this handy number. Plimsolls, $655, by Dries Van Noten; hat, $750, by Valentino; water bottle,
Bag, $1350, Celine by Hedi Slimane; and sandals, approx. $520, by Marni. $49.95, by Frank Green; and water bottle holder, POA, by Stella McCartney.

GQ.COM.AU 49
Stylist

Alessandro Michele and fashion’s


Reshaping our vision of masculinity – babushkas, baubles, evening gowns,
Words Steff Yotka

T hank Alessandro Michele for one


of the greatest styling cues of 2019
– A$AP Rocky’s monarchist silk babushkas.
his room, during a dinner – I said, ‘Choose
the red dress with the head. You will be like a
Shakespearean character.’ ”
The 47-year-old creative director of Gucci The Bard is an apt reference for a designer
introduced a similar style at his 2017 who stages his runways more like theatrical
women’s cruise show, held in the chapel of events than typical catwalk fodder. It’s a
Westminster Abbey, as a straight-up homage precedent set by his debut collection, for
to the staid scarves of Queen Elizabeth AW15. At that time, Michele was acting as an
II herself. Michele is also the source of interim creative director, given just five days
Ryan Gosling’s ’50s prom shirt at the 2017 to make something to present on the brand’s
Academy Awards, Donald Glover’s groovy Milan runway after the unceremonious
velvet suits, and the ongoing Jared Leto- departure of Gucci’s then creative team.
ssaince that has turned the musician-actor What he dreamed up was nothing short of
away from off-duty-Angeleno style and into revelatory. The flaxen-haired model Hugo
a gentleman of the Canyon, caftans and all. Goldhoorn opened the show in a red silk
The list of men who flock to Michele for pussy-bow blouse and pooling lank trousers.
suiting, loafers, baubles and kerchiefs seems Bracelet-sleeved suits in deep emerald,
endless, in fact, and on it are names as diverse Young Turk velvet-trimmed coats, and a
as Swiss tennis star Roger Federer and Harlem new iteration of Gucci’s banker-bro loafers,
designer and hip-hop world legend Dapper stripped of their backs and lined with
Dan. What’s more, many of these men are Einsteinian tufts of kangaroo fur, followed.
equally as likely to sport a Gucci dress as Less than five days later, Michele (and that
they are a Gucci loafer. At the 2019 Met Gala, pussy-bow blouse) was officially appointed
Leto showed up wearing a Michele-designed the creative director of Gucci. Five years later,
red evening gown and carrying a model the shift in menswear started by Michele is
of his own head as an accessory. Michele’s seismic, with that first eerily pretty ensemble
version of masculinity has become fashion’s predicting a half-decade of luxurious revolt.
predominant one: an idea not just of men Michele designs both the menswear and
in skirts but of men embracing loveliness, womenswear collections simultaneously,
textural richness, and glamour – things that pulling ideas from one to the other. “It’s
in the 20th century were reserved largely more interesting, sometimes, to work on
for women. Gucci’s celebrity friends and the menswear. You can really shout, because
collaborators are helping to popularise this menswear is more rigid,” he says. “When
aesthetic in the mainstream and, as a result, you try to manipulate the codes of a man’s
allowing the designer to push himself further wardrobe, you can do something really new.
and further in restyling the modern man. It’s pretty interesting. I started thinking
Michele lets out a big, bright laugh at the about an idea of beauty that, for me, doesn’t
recollection of Leto’s Met Gala look. He has belong to men or women. It’s almost the
just returned from a summer holiday and is same; that’s why I put a few men’s looks on
gazing down past his chestnut locks into the women and the reverse. You can be more
FaceTime screen, tapping his bulky rings masculine showing your femininity.”
on the table in Gucci’s Rome design offices In the five years since the fateful show that
for effect. “Jared is a person who loves to ordained Michele as one of fashion’s utmost
experiment,” Michele says. “When I saw him provocateurs, he has staged an overthrow
with the evening dress, I thought that it was of power in the world of menswear by
so unbelievably beautiful. At the end of two fashioning new male identities. Michele’s
days of big conversations – on the phone, in conquest occurs with a stitch in place of a

50 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


genderless revolution
and all – is a lot easier with friends like Harry Styles and A$AP Rocky.
PHOTOGRAPHY: TIERNEY GEARON.

Alessandro Michele
overlooking Sullivan
Canyon Park in LA.

GQ.COM.AU 51
Stylist
3. 4.

2.

5.

7.

6.

PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES.

10. 9. 8.

1. Harry Styles attends the 2019 Met Gala. 2. The embellishments on Leto’s jacket for the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala. 3. Elton John attends the Gucci Cruise 2019 show at Alyscamps
in May. 4. Hugo Goldhoorn opens the Gucci AW15 show. 5. Donald Glover in head-to-toe Gucci in LA in November 2019. 6. A$AP Rocky in his now-famous babushka style at the 2018
LACMA Art + Film Gala. 7. Michele acknowledges the audience after the Gucci SS20 show. 8. Jared Leto and his iconic wax head at the 2019 Met Gala.
9. Omari Hardwick, Dapper Dan and 21 Savage in New York City in May. 10. A look from Gucci’s AW19 collection.

52 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


sword. That stitch can hold a hem flared out, Styles, the British capital-P, capital-S Pop its monogram slides is never a sacrifice of
so when Donald Glover slinks across a stage, Star with a voice and a visage that can launch self in the name of style. The mash-up of
he does so with a glamazon kick. It can hold a thousand shrill screams wherever he goes. references, the diversity of products, allows
the shoulder of a jacket tight and high, to “I think Harry is the perfect expression of for everyone from Offset to Bradley Cooper
relay a schoolboyish charm, or it can secure masculinity,” Michele says of his friend and to find a Gucci piece to love. “It’s not that
a button on a silk blouse – even if it looks best collaborator. “He is so relaxed in his body, I want to see all men in a gown. That’s not
undone. All together, these are luxuriously and completely open to listen to himself. He what I think,” Michele explains. “It’s just that
made garments that allow guys to liberate likes to play with dress, with hair. I think I love the idea that I can be surprised by the
themselves from antiquated codes. No longer that he is really the incarnation of a pop icon personality of someone else. It’s nice to play
must you choose between powerful and cool. of the next generation. He’s the only one on with your life, to play with codes. I think that
Michele’s work allows for the conveyance of the market, I think, that is really in contact the era of being masculine only if you have a
a full range of characteristics: sensual, coy, with his feminine part. He’s sexy and he’s specific suit – it’s over. Completely over. Also,
intellectual, menacing. It’s a sharp pivot from handsome.” For the same Met Gala that Leto women need men who are more connected
Gucci’s last heyday, in the ’90s, when Tom attended dressed as an Elizabethan diva, with a woman’s world.”
Ford popularised hot-bod hedonism with bare Styles wore a sheer black pussy-bow blouse It’s this openness to explore every corner
chests and tight trousers. with high-waisted trousers, as an homage to of the fashion world that has made Michele’s
tenure at Gucci so exciting to watch. Over
the first five years of his leadership, Gucci’s
“Dress codes belong to politics; society pushes business was a fast-growing juggernaut.
people to obey the rules – it’s easier. I think that “I think the more [the garments and
accessories] are special, the more they will
we must completely break from that.” be saleable,” he says. “When I talk about the
collection and I show it to the merchandising
But to call Michele’s fey fashion radical the New Romantics of the ’80s, part David department, they understand that fashion
in the year 2019 is to misunderstand the Sylvian and part David Bowie. “The friends must be something unique. The era that
designer’s mission. The clothes beloved by that I choose in my career, they really reflect you just want to buy a black pair of trousers
both Sir Elton John and Snoop Dogg are, my idea of beauty, so I think that they are without reason is over. Fashion can really talk
even at their wildest, classically minded. really connected with their feminine part,” to you. It’s not just buying something, it’s
“I understood,” Michele says, thinking says Michele. “For me, it’s more masculine. connecting to a strong image that suggests
back to his first show, “that there is nothing A man is really attractive when he listens to something to you. I know that is very
more new than an old beautiful code.” He his feminine part.” complicated.” Michele laughs. “And it’s not
continues: “Dress codes belong to politics; From the cult of Aphroditus to Jimi always easy to explain in English, but I always
society pushes people to obey the rules – Hendrix, men in skirts or ivory poet tops try to be sincere with my position.”
it’s easier. I think that we must completely were never out of style, really. But the magic The image Gucci champions, in the end,
break from that. Sometimes people feel of Michele’s reappropriation of history is isn’t one image at all. Michele has held
more comfortable in other types of dress, that he does it not verbatim but with the a mirror up to our world, reflecting the
in other lives. A pop star or an actor, they hazy almost-rightness of a dream, styling tension, the sexuality, the fragility of being a
can be a guide for other people if they show togas over classic gray wool suits or ’80s man in modern times back to us with passion,
something different.” track pants with swaggy ’70s blouses. As rigour, symbolism, and love. As you move,
No one is a better embodiment of the such, Michele’s Gucci promises that to lace the Gucci reflection of you moves too. As the
Michele method of masculinity than Harry up a pair of ‘Ultrapace’ sneakers or step into world changes, Michele adapts. n

GQ.COM.AU 53
Stylist | Moodboard

Back to work
Take the edge off returning to your desk (or whatever workstation awaits you)
by swapping your standard office essentials with a few on-trend alternatives.
Words Amy Campbell Photography Dijana Maddison Styling Harriet Crawford

Socks
Pineapple and racing-car prints might have been cute when you accepted your grad position,
but with promotions and bonuses comes the expectation that you’ll begin to dress for the job
you want. To be clear, this will require parting ways with your collection of ‘personality’ socks,
a phenomenon that is particularly prevalent in the corporate world post-Christmas. But believe
us, once your hooves get a feel for the superior cotton interior of Bally’s more sensibly coloured
socks (13), they’ll forget the pineapples even existed.

Bag
There’s nothing cool about the word ‘briefcase’, nor is ‘man bag’ a hip alternative. That being
said, a man needs a proper work bag – one he’s not ashamed to be seen with beyond office walls.
If you’re picking up what we’re putting down here, you’ll be tickled to hear that Bottega Veneta
(2) has built a case so crafty and handsome, you’ll feel proud simply carrying it around. Just
prepare for the compliments to flow in. But if not for this, what is buying a new bag for?

Shoes
The style of shoe you can get away with is going to depend on the mood of your work
environment, so here’s hoping you know how to read a room. But even if you’re surrounded by
suits, there are some subtle liberties you can take to bring the runway to work. Oxfords with
heavy-duty tread, such as Prada’s iteration, are evocative of SS20’s combat boot trend while
appearing respectable enough for the boardroom (26). If you’re more of a boot guy, this pair
from Givenchy (22) look sleek and subtle. And they are. Until you sit down, your hems inch up
and out pops that fun, shiny buckle.

Belt
Speaking of buckles, don’t forget the one that goes around your waist. Because in addition to
keeping your bottom half afloat it does wonders to infuse your entire ensemble with an air of
put-togetherness, the importance of which cannot be overstated in a professional setting. But
you know that. Here, you want to walk the line between conventional and ostentatious, and with
a glint of gold and a hint of status, this Tom Ford belt (16) does precisely that.

Pen
The modern office may be digitised, but the allure of a good pen – and the impression of know-
how it gives off – will never, ever fade. Think about it: when was the last time a punter with a
cheap ballpoint caught your attention (for the right reasons) from across the meeting room?
Exactly. With a handsome, metal-trimmed specimen like this fine writing instrument from
Hugo Boss (7) in hand, however, you’re a promotion waiting to happen.

Suit
Now that you’ve hit refresh on the accessories it’s time to talk about what goes on in the middle.
Assuming you’re encouraged to dress in a suit, now is the time to distance yourself from classic
black, grey and navy, instead moving toward something more brown and buttery. And if a suit
isn’t part of your on-the-clock garb, perhaps think about making it one. Because not since Robert
Redford (24) played the original Jay Gatsby, or Matt Damon (12) rendered the remorseless Mr
Ripley, has tailoring been this cool.

54 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


5. 6.

3.

20.
17. 18.

21.
19.

25.
22. 23.
26.

24.

GQ.COM.AU 55
Stylist

Luxury
goes
online

I f it seems surprising that a 35-year-


old business would launch its first
online store in 2020, well, it is. But what’s
“It’s not just a transaction,” says Poulakis,
“it’s the feeling you get when you walk
out with a luxury product, but it’s also the
Of course, finding alternatives hasn’t
been much of an issue. A Melbourne-based
chauffeur service, which will transport
even more surprising is the fact this business interaction you have with the style consultant. purchases to the homes of clients who’d
hasn’t just survived but thrived for over three It’s being part of the Harrolds family and prefer their Saint Laurent didn’t travel via
decades without one. When most brick-and- that’s something we’ve really tried to nail.” mail, is just one example of how Harrolds
mortar stores found themselves faced with an Launching harrolds.com.au, then, has been will transcend the facelessness of shopping
online-or-die ultimatum, Harrolds’ physical a conscious decision rather than a product of online. The store’s entire inventory will also
footprint continued to flourish. It’s a bragging cultural circumstance. “We’ve got to keep be styled in-house and photographed locally,
right very few fashion retailers can lay claim up with the times, we understand we need an which means products will be displayed in a
to. But this isn’t just any fashion retailer. online presence,” admits Poulakis, “there are a way that actually makes sense to Australian
Having grown up in Harrolds’ Melbourne lot of people looking for luxury items online, men. If you dabble in online shopping, you’ll
flagship store (literally, his parents founded and they get taken to international websites. know just how much difference it makes
the place) Ross Poulakis knows the ins and They’re not really being looked after here.” He seeing the shirt you want to buy styled with
outs of the family business like the interior says the biggest challenge to come from taking pants you’d actually wear.
of a Tom Ford dinner jacket – which is to Harrolds digital – and a cause for hesitation in It’s certainly a highlight, but the launch of
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES.

say, very, very well. Now the managing the past – has been working out how to activate Harrolds’ online store marks the beginning
director and tailoring buyer of his family’s that same element of subliminal customer of 12 months of festivities for the luxury
store, Poulakis believes that Harrolds’ service in the virtual world. department store, as it celebrates 35 years.
ability to curate clothing in an environment
people want to visit IRL, combined with its “There are a lot of people looking for luxury items
confidence-enhancing customer service, has
allowed the store to prosper as many of its
online, and they get taken to international websites.
competitors did the opposite. They’re not really being looked after here.”

56 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


WHAT ELSE TO EXPECT

Amiri pre-Fall 2020


“It’s a big milestone for us. Eight years ago,
we got written off. People said we weren’t

DSquared2 SS20
going to have a business because online
would close us down,” says Poulakis. “Here
we are all these years later as the number-
one Australian retailer. I think we’re doing
something quite right.”
As Harrolds enters its icon era, you can
rest assured the store, its clients – many
of whom have been shopping at Harrolds
since it opened in ’85 – and Poulakis will
be raising a glass. But don’t expect to see
them pausing for long. Because the spring/
summer 2020 collections will land in store
ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: GORUNWAY.

shortly and Harrolds has some surprises –


including a few coveted brand acquisitions
– up its sleeve.
“We’ve recently introduced Versace and
DSquared², which we’ve acquired after years
of negotiations. And we’ve got some exciting
partnerships coming in for autumn/winter,
too. But I can’t talk to them just yet,” says
Poulakis. Watch this space. n
Harrolds’ online store will launch in early 2020.

GQ.COM.AU 57
Grooming

A free-spirited and enlightened approach to his work has propelled Perth-born Thomas

Words Alison Veness Styling Jillian Davison

58 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


Eyes, ‘Rouge A Levres Satin’ lipstick in A Royal Scandal; Cheeks, ‘Rouge A Levres Voile’
lipstick in Mae Coral; Lips, ‘Rouge A Levres Satin’ lipstick in Goldie Red.

A s society has become more


progressive, Thomas de Kluyver
has felt more comfortable. “I love where
attention of Gucci creative director
Alessandro Michele. “I was in New York
on my way to JFK just over a year ago and
They’re intense, but we create this incredible
vibe – the make-up room is so much fun and
there’s so much laughter and music. They’re
these lines of masculinity and femininity I got a call from my agent saying: ‘Alessandro incredible sets to be on, like film sets, and
are becoming blurred,” he says, reflecting on Michele wants to meet you.’ I was like: ‘Wait, you’re in charge of the make-up of sometimes
his own self-expression through cosmetics. what?’ Like a dream come true.” up to 100 people.”
“I’ll wear a really masculine outfit and I’ve He immediately changed his flight. “For At the Gucci show last season he had a
been carrying around the Gucci ‘Zumi’ me, what Gucci is doing is so exciting and team of 52 people working for him. “It’s the
women’s handbag everywhere. I wear nail something I can identify with, and also real deal,” says de Kluyver. “I feel so humbled
polish every day, sometimes a little blusher Alessandro loves make-up. I arrived [back] in by it all, though I’m an artist at the end of
in my cheeks… little things that make me LA at like 3am, went to bed for two hours the day and I approach my work in that
feel good. I love that make-up is almost like and got up and had breakfast with Alessandro way.” He’s also enjoying working with the
a fashion accessory and an extension of a at Chateau Marmont.” De Kluyver says they 58 shades that Gucci launched recently and
person. When I was younger growing up in talked about work processes and quickly which are featured in a campaign for three
Perth it was hard; we had to work hard and found common ground. new lipstick collections that featured Dani
also be quite brave to express ourselves.” “I do a lot of drawing, a lot of research, Miller from the band Surfbort.
De Kluyver learned his craft doing his and and approach my work in a similar way to De Kluyver has been championing a
all his friends’ make-up when they went to a designer. So even though some elements new approach to make-up for years and
parties and raves in his hometown. “Good of it seem simple, everything I do is acknowledges this has played a role in his
old days!” he says with a laugh. very considered.” He is very much about ascent. “That was kind of my mantra: doing
He is the master of stripped back self- celebrating individuality, as he says: “It’s make-up as a way to express yourself rather
expression and is at the vanguard of a change about creating looks based on the model’s than to hide behind it,” he says. “I’ve always
sweeping through the beauty industry. individual personalities, but also looking done looks that are quite free and I love it
“I think the way we transform our appearance back through my archive. So much of my when people wear make-up in a way that is
has changed a lot over the last few years, from work focuses on identity and gender, and positive, whether it’s completely bare makeup
using make-up as a mask, or something to make-up being used as a form of the self.” or a whole face covered in colours.”
wear because society expects us to wear it in Both the ride and the pace have been rapid He says “traditional rules like a full face
a certain way, to a new level of self-expression for de Kluyver, who is 33 years old, in the last of foundation” or “the need to wear mas-
and freedom within make-up which is being year, but he describes the Gucci team “like cara everyday” is changing. “Now it’s about
celebrated more than ever.” a family” and says the days never feel long using make-up in whatever way you want.
De Kluyver’s openness and raw, expressive because of what they’re creating. “The shoots Sometimes I just get some eyeliner and
artistry are perhaps what attracted the we do, we work for up to five days in a row. smudge it in, or sometimes I do full glamour,

GQ.COM.AU 59
Grooming

lashes, everything, old-Hollywood make-up. “I’m so inspired by people and I always want the
I’m so inspired by people and I always want
the person I’m working on to own the look. person I’m working on to own the look. I want them
I want them to feel like they’re wearing it, not to feel like they’re wearing it, not it wearing them.”
it wearing them.”
De Kluyver is not on a crusade, though: out clubbing. We used to go to BoomBox in De Kluyver’s mother is a theatre director
he does what he thinks will look beautiful on London and I used to wear really hardcore, and his father is a doctor of politics who
someone’s face. “I always want there to be a beautiful make-up. I remember meeting Pat teaches at a London university – he’s close
beauty to it, so even if it’s like paint smudged McGrath in a club and her grabbing my face with them and his siblings, including four
on someone’s eyes, there’s something about and saying she loved my make-up.” half-brothers and sisters. “They live all over
my work that people can resonate with, De Kluyver has been based in the UK for the place, but they’re very proud of me,
because there’s this softness, too.” 13 years but says his connection to Australia especially my mother, because she is such
He loves a gender-blurring mix of remains strong. “My father and grandparents a creative person. My family is very liberal.
masculine and feminine, particularly “some- whom I grew up with are Dutch, my mother They have a really diverse group of friends,
thing that fits in between them both,” and is Australian, I have always felt such a huge so I grew up with lots of different people
reveals he taught himself early on by trying connection to Europe because of my family, around like artists, musicians and writers.”
looks out on his own face. “When I was but ever since I’ve lived there I feel so Although he was self-taught, he says Rebecca
young, I wore a lot of make-up when I went Australian. I’m so patriotic.” Williams of Becca Cosmetics, who is also from
Perth, was a big inspiration. “My mum and
Rebecca were good friends in high school and
I was doing work experience at Becca Cosmetics
and she gave me a few make-up books, one
by François Nars, Makeup Your Mind, and
Stéphane Marais’ Beauty Flash. I taught myself
by copying the make-up in those books on my
friends in high school.
“Rebecca is so passionate,” de Kluyver says. “I
love people like that; it’s such an inspiring thing.
I surround myself with people who love what
they do and bring this kind of energy. Everyone
is there wanting to do the best job they can and
we all just push, push and push and try to do the
most exciting things, to do something new.”
His favourite make-up artists, apart from
Nars and Marais, include Serge Lutens and
Inge Grognard.
De Kluyver’s first book, All I Want To Be,
was published by Idea in 2019, showcasing
looks such as faces almost stripped bare
and accentuated with extreme colour, epic
eyeliner, a smudge of lipstick. His work is
irreverent, fresh, naughty and modern.
His main focus for now remains Gucci. “It’s
really exciting to be launching products that
I’ve been working on with Alessandro. It’s
always really important to keep pushing my
work forward every season, no matter what it is.
“I look back and see moments that were
brilliant, but you can’t keep repeating yourself,
so I look at more innovative ways of doing
make-up and ingredients. Working with Gucci
Beauty and with their cosmetic scientists is a
whole side of the industry and business that
I wasn’t exposed to before. There are a lot of
Thomas De Kluyver. new challenges, and my goal at the moment is
nailing all of that. I’ve had a big year.” n

60 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020 GQ.COM.AU


Developer’s Kit RED

T HE WO RLD’S FIR ST SDK-AVAI L ABL E

GAME ON.
Ava i l a b l e at a d ul t s h op.com | @ l e l o_ offi c i a l
Grooming | News

Celine’s
new
scents

62 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


Spas worth travelling for
If that Christmas bonus is burning a hole in your pocket,
some pampering might be just what you need.

SISLEY, PARIS THE FOUR SEASONS,


No one does luxe spas quite BANGKOK
like the French – who tend As we were printing this
to think of them as more of a magazine, the finishing touches
birthright than an indulgence. were still being applied to this
This recently opened flagship uber-stylish outpost in the Thai
in Paris blends savoir faire, je ne capital and the sneak peek at the
sais quoi and all the other Gallic spa had us just aching to hand NEW MOVE
traits we don’t have English over our baht. fourseasons.com As with everything
words for. sisley.com Try Any of the 90-minute plus
Try The Anti-Stress Facial, Bespoke Bodywork massages, from film and
approx $277, which will banish (approx $300), which use the fashion to scents,
jet lag. Or at least the external region’s traditional techniques
signs of it. to unknot and unwind you. Tom Ford does
not tend to fuck
about. He quietly
researches
and develops
before dropping
– seemingly out
of nowhere –
indispensable
grooming gear.
His new ‘Research’
skincare line
is no different.
The Tom Ford
‘Research Crème
Concentrate’,
SANTA MARIA NOVELLA, TRUEFITT & HILL, SYDNEY $510, includes
BYRON BAY In operation for 214 years and
Australia’s chicest beach resort with establishments in Melbourne detoxifying and
– Rae’s on Wategos – gets the and Canberra, it’s Truefitt & Hill’s moisturising white
spa it deserves with the first new Sydney barbers that has
Santa Maria Novella collab in caught and kept our attention. porcelain cacao,
the country. raes.com.au Nestled in the stately surrounds caffeine and
Try The Santa Maria Novella of the QVB, it’s all quiet elegance
Indulgence, $355, including and gentleman’s-club wood Japanese green
a back massage using SMN panelling. truefittandhill.com.au
candle wax which melts at Try The Ultimate Shaving
tea Gyokuro. Think
body temperature, hand and Experience, $85, which includes a facial in a jar.
foot massages, a foot scrub, an old-school hot-towel wet
hair treatment, scalp massage shave, a face massage and
davidjones.com.au
and jade crystal facial. a spritz of fragrance.

GQ.COM.AU 63
Watch

What’s your flavour?

Armed and Generous Military Precision

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


Midnight Juggernaut French Connection

GQ.COM.AU 65
Motor

Changing
climates
Supercar manufacturers like Ferrari were once the last
strongholds of pure performance. Now, as the world
takes a radical pivot towards sustainability, they’re having
to change their image – and their technology – to suit.
Words Brad Nash

66 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


Opposite page, from top: in red, the Ferrari ‘SF90 Stradale’, the Prancing Horse’s first production hybrid supercar, will
arrive in Australia late next year; in white, the Aston Martin ‘Rapide E’ is the company’s first all-electric model;
in lime green, the hybrid Lamborghini ‘Sián’ is the company’s first step into an electrified future; in green and black,
Porsche’s electric ‘Taycan’ is capable of 0-100km/h in 2.8 seconds and boasts a range of 300km+.

T he racing circuits and testing


grounds of Northern Italy will
always be associated with a certain driving
supercar manufacturer powering into the ’20s
on internal combustion alone is, at best, absurd.
At worst, it’s enough to make you angry.
Fiat/Chrysler who own the Italian brand. Since
then, Ferrari has taken up the mantle with the
‘SF90 Stradale’ – the first plug-in hybrid in the
ideal, from the blistering straights and tight The release of cars like Tesla’s ‘Model company’s history. Incidentally, with both its
chicanes of Monza to the sun-baked roads of S’ delivered a huge shock to the system of engine and electric system combined, it’s the
Tuscany and the Dolomites. The country’s modern-day supercar manufacturers. Within most powerful Ferrari ever made.
car scene is defined by power, passion the space of a couple of years, the concept of an Lamborghini has been somewhat more
and performance. Most of which will be electric car creating Ferrari-level performance hesitant to take the first big step into an
appreciated by a public as passionate about became a startling reality, and even more electrified future. Its first hypercar, the ‘Sián’,
the car you’re driving as you are. importantly, it became abundantly clear that was unveiled to a stunned public this year,
For a long time, the roar of a high- young, affluent car buyers aren’t bowled over featuring some of the most radical design ever
revving internal combustion engine has by twin-turbo V8s, crackling exhausts or fiery put into one of the Modena marque’s vehicles.
been synonymous with every iconic moment paint jobs like they once were. However, it was more of a special edition.
in the Italian automotive scene. To own a There’s now no escaping the fact that every Only 63 will be made.
Ferrari or a Lamborghini is to own a license major supercar brand in the world is near- Granted, these steps are small. Ferrari has
to create drama, and thus, the personality enough obligated to follow suit. Some have aimed to ensure that 60 per cent of its cars sold
of the country’s cars is intrinsically woven been quick on the uptake. Porsche’s ‘Taycan’ in 2022 are hybrid, but even that seems like
into the fabric of the nation’s identity.
What Alessandro Michele’s Gucci is to the
fashion world, its supercar marques are to What Gucci is to the fashion world, Italy’s supercar
the automotive industry – places where marques are to the automotive industry – places
flamboyance and excess reign supreme.
You get the sense that over the last couple where flamboyancy and excess reign supreme.
of decades, such brands have fought extremely
hard to keep it that way. The creation of is, to many, the first real electric sports car, a tough task. A twin-turbo V8 still primarily
a Ferrari, after all, has always been done capable of 0-100 in 2.8 seconds and a range in powers the ‘SF90 Stradale’ and the car’s 2.5
in pursuit of the purest expression of the excess of 330km. Aston Martin has followed second 0-100 time comes with the caveat that
driving experience as possible. To drive a suit with the ‘Rapide E’, pledging that it wants it will only cruise for 25km under the pure
Lamborghini, conversely, is to drive a car to have electrified its entire range by 2025. power of its electric batteries. The idea of a
that puts atmosphere – if not the atmosphere Inaction, then, comes with the risk of both true all-electric supercar seems even further
– above all else. an environmental and a PR disaster. And it’s away. Neither McLaren or Ferrari think this
But as the nation and its surrounds face up forced these final stalwarts of automotive will be a realistic possibility until at least 2025.
to the very real threat of a warming planet, it’s purity to rapidly rethink their public image At the very least, though, these are
quickly becoming apparent that the supercar as a result, leading to two of the busiest years steps towards a future where the Prancing
landscape, as we’ve always known it at least, in each of the company’s respective histories. Horses and Raging Bulls of the world can
is rapidly approaching its end. The idea of “If there is an electric supercar to be built, equate themselves with modern-day ideals
an all-electric Ferrari or Lamborghini still then Ferrari will be the first,” declared Sergio of sustainability. And that’s fundamental, if
feels utterly foreign, and yet, the idea of any Marchionne in early 2018, the late CEO of they’re going to stick around. n

GQ.COM.AU 67
Inc.

10 tips to becoming an Instant success


We sit down with the co-founders of Sipp Instant, GQ’s Audi Innovation Award winners, to discuss
the merits of setting up a business based on your beliefs in order to succeed where others will fail.

D ylan Garft and best mate Luke


Zocchio launched coffee company
Sipp Instant 18 months ago, but, really, their
cool ingredients wasn’t an issue. That’s just
what the product cost. And then we were able
to build in our donation of a dollar from every
Get some help from friends
“Having connections like Chris and Liam
[Hemsworth], it allows you to be seen in
journey has been a long time coming. Nearly bag into the cost of goods as well. I think we’ve front of a lot of people quickly. When Chris
two years before their product – instant coffee just hit a nerve with people in a space and time and Liam did a post, or even Ruby Tuesday,
that’s filled with organic grains and packaged where they are shopping more consciously it went viral, like massively viral and we sold
sustainably – first reached consumers, the and they are thinking about the products they out. And it was a scramble to fulfill orders but
pair were busy researching the best possible buy. There’s a lot of movements going on at it’s a good problem to have. But the product
ingredients and how they would source them. the moment: climate change, plastic-free. And still needs to stand on its own two feet when
Garft’s background is in marketing and we just fit nicely into everyone’s idea of how it is seen by the masses. Now I actually have
design while Zocchio is passionate about they want to live their lives. We also wanted a demographic of who follows us and it’s 77
fitness and has made a name for himself as a product that’s in everyone’s life already. per cent female. But at the end of the day, it
Chris Hemsworth’s personal trainer. They’d A lot of people are doing mushroom elixirs doesn’t matter who’s endorsing your product
always talked about going into business and stuff like that now, and that’s great but – if it’s a shitty product, it’s still going to fall
together, and after Zocchio returned from a it’s not in the mainstream. People are getting over.”
trip to the US, he called Garft to say, “They busier and busier with their lives so let’s make
do coffee different over there, why don’t we an instant coffee.” Buy into a lifestyle
do a coffee brand?” “That’s a bit of a second phase. To start, it was
The question they asked themselves was, Believe in what you’re doing like, ‘What is this instant coconut coffee?’
‘How can we make a functional beverage that’s “Some advice I can give anyone wanting to Then people see our packaging and [that it’s]
better than just a normal coffee?’ With the go down the path of being an entrepreneur compostable and we give a dollar [toward
added incentive of Garft being passionate about is you need to truly believe in what you’re sustainable charities] and they see all our
sustainability, the aim was create an ethical doing to begin with. It’s all well and good touchpoints quite easily on our social feed.
business that gave them purpose when they got to sell a product you think is going to make I don’t know if it’s wankythat we’re trying to
up in the morning and didn’t make them feel money. But if there’s purpose behind what create a lifestyle, but we’re just trying to be
guilty about turning a profit. you’re doing, you’re going to work that little open and honest.”
The end result is a drink that’s part instant bit extra. And with purpose and drive behind
coffee part wellness beverage. Coming in you comes authenticity, then customers will Find the right name
various flavours from matcha green tea to come after that.” “So this was trademark Law 101. We started
coconut chai, each is filled with what the with Sip, this was after a long time of names
pair call “nutrition-rich carbohydrates” Go into business with a mate being thrown around and passing them to
that will help to sustain your caffeine fix for “Go in with open eyes about who you’re our friends. Then we went to the lawyers and
longer. “With the added organic grains in going into business with. Everyone’s a little they’re like, ‘You can’t use a word like that. Sip
it,” explains Garft, “which are gluten free, it bit different and people change over time. is too close to a descriptive word that someone
gives you modulated energy release so you’re So be ready for that. You put structures in would use when they’re drinking coffee.’ So
not getting that coffee crash by 11am.” place in case anything does happen. With we thought we’d wasted so much time and
With Zocchio on the road with Hemsworth us, there’s already documents in place so it’s then spent even more time trying to find
– after all, someone has to ensure those guns all good if something was to go the wrong a new name. This is probably what took so
stay polished – we caught up with Garft who way. It’s important to know each other’s long to launch, we just couldn’t come up with
shared 10 takeaways that have helped shape strengths and let each other do their job. I’m anything. So we were like, ‘Let’s just put an
Sipp’s journey so far. Take note – who knows, the workhorse behind the business, in there extra P on the end of it’.
WORDS: MIKE CHRISTENSEN.

maybe next year you’ll be in the running for a day to day and I can’t ever expect Zoc to be
GQ Innovation award. that, so there’s never any hard feelings if I Give up the day job
get left behind in the office to do customer “I’ve definitely got a creative side so I never
Start as you mean to go on care or look at spreadsheets. If Zoc wasn’t enjoyed having that nine-to-five job. All my
“We were able to build everything into our doing what he was doing, he would be good previous bosses were fantastic and I loved my
cost of goods from the very beginning, so at sales or HR. He’s very charismatic. You jobs. But there was just something missing.
budgeting for compostable packaging and can’t be angry at him!” It’s tricky to put in words, but I want to leave

68 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


this planet a better place than what we’ve a lot of people just so extreme one way but of you to make sure that anything you do, all
gotten it into today. So when you are the boss everyone needs to come into the middle a those things are checked off.
of your own destiny and you run your own little bit and accept everyone is different, you
business, you can navigate that. And that know? That’s the tricky part.” Don’t be a perfectionist
gives me great pride in what I do and that “If you try and put yourself out there as a perfect
extra fire to get up in the morning because Go direct to consumer business or a perfect person, you’re just going
it’s your own.” “We don’t really do much wholesale. We’re to alienate people. The world doesn’t need one
more of a straight-to-consumer business. person doing everything perfectly. They need
Manage social media We’ve done that on purpose. We haven’t a billion people doing everything imperfectly.
“Social media has been a huge, huge player chased the wholesale market because we want Because if everyone just has a crack and gives
in the last five years as it’s allowed a voice to grow our customer base and essentially it a go, it’s going to be better. Like, let’s just say
to people that didn’t have a voice before and our Sipp family. We can talk to them and climate change is wrong and the climate deniers
it’s connected the world and made it a whole we’ve got great customer service. But we do are right. The worst thing that we’re going to
lot smaller. That’s why a coffee brand out of need to look at other areas, so food service, do is clean up the planet. That’s as bad as it’s
Byron Bay can share its voice on sustainability hospitality, hotels and airlines. We’ve already going to get. As a business we’re not perfect.
and be more than just a coffee brand. The had certain meetings and people approach There’s things that we could be doing that
negative is you can get stuck in what you like us and it just didn’t feel right. You can easily I don’t even know about. We’ll probably learn
and you know what your political views are. be distracted by money, big orders, this and about it in a year. But we’re trying our best, and
And that can be good or bad, because there’s that, but you just have your checklist in front that’s all that I think people really want.” n

Clockwise from top left: Sipp Instant’s matcha latte; Sipp’s 100
per cent compostable packaging; Garft with Chris Hemsworth;
co-founders Garth and Zocchio.

GQ.COM.AU 69
Fit

T he ’10s were a funny decade. During


a period that saw Donald Trump
evolve from angry TV personality to angry
opposite end of the spectrum, and is proving
to have a wide range of practical uses from
boosting creativity and sexual desire to
leader of the free world, we’ve kissed goodbye raising your metabolism.
to truth in politics and watched social media It’s estimated somewhere between 200-
companies evolve from sharers of cat memes 500 million people currently use meditation
to society-shifting giants capable of swaying in one form or another – that’s three times as

Time general elections. But aside from questionable


changes in the world of politics, it’s perhaps
the sport and wellness spheres that have seen
many as in 2012. And it’s not just how many,
but who among us is meditating that’s really
catching people’s attention. When best-
to get the biggest shifts.
Over the past 10 years, the world has
selling author Tim Ferriss set out to interview
140 people at the top of their respective fields

meditated watched on as new wellness trends have


emerged as frequently as Australian
prime ministers. But, as we move into the
for his podcast Tribe of Mentors, he found his
guests largely had one thing in common:
they meditated. All this to say, meditation has
No longer reserved for lotus
uncharted ’20s, it’s safe to say not all wellness clearly graduated beyond the fad phase and
positions and quests for spiritual
trends are created equal. Some, such as the deserves to be taken seriously by anyone with
enlightenment, meditation could be
silent retreats and various forms of restrictive an interest in up-scaling their life.
the key to unlocking our true potential, eating habits favoured by Silicon Valley One person who’s gone all in with
whether that’s in the office, on the types, have heavily disputed benefits. Others meditation is Sydneysider Janoah van
sports field, or even in the bedroom. are downright weird – serotonin fasting, Kekem. Having worked in hospitality and
Words Christopher Riley anyone? Meditation, meanwhile, sits at the landscaping before finding a job as a sales

Don Draper seeks some serenity in the iconic final scene of Mad Men in 2015.

PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES.

70 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


manager for an alcohol company, van Kekem can literally change our habits.” A study in the
left the corporate world behind last year to American Journal of Cardiology even found it has VEDIC
set up meditation workshops for individuals, the capacity to extend life span.
workplaces and athletes. Meditating makes us mentally more nimble MEDITATION
But according to van Kekem, until a few and able to withstand the pressures that come A BEGINNER’S
years ago, he was the last person you would with modern life. “It can shift how we perceive
imagine meditating. He’d heard it doing the world in terms of what is stressful and
GUIDE
the rounds but didn’t imagine it connecting what is out of our control,” says van Kekem.
with his lifestyle. “Up until the point where Despite his own experience, van Kekem
I actually learned to meditate I was probably found the people around him needed a lot of
anti-spirituality, anti-open mindedness… I convincing. “I looked around at every one of
was only interested in sport, picking up girls my friends and I was like, ‘Would they go to
and you know, the standard sort of things you a teacher and meditate?’ I could tell you that
do growing up. Anything that was deemed 98 per cent of them would have been a ‘no’.
outside the norm, I wasn’t interested in.” Meditation has a branding problem.”
The turning point came following a He set out to fix that issue. Rather than
conversation with a client at his previous job. meditating being this elaborate thing
“I really respected him,” explains van Kekem. spiritual gurus do while “levitating around in
“He was a real lad… he surfed, he drank, he ate robes,” says van Kekem, he wants to remove
meat and he was a hard arse. But he said to me the stigma and help people find ways to fit it
one day, ‘I just wish I learned this when I was into their everyday lives. “It doesn’t matter
younger’.” Curious to see if he’d find the same if you’re on the train, it doesn’t matter if
results, van Kekem started someone’s sitting next to you
experimenting with different and it’s loud. Let’s get real
forms of meditation but
“It can shift how and let’s fit it into our lives
found he was still sceptical. we perceive and make it as important as
“I wasn’t quite fully sold,” I wouldn’t leave the house
says van Kekem of his early
the world in without brushing my teeth
attempts to meditate. “I was terms of what and having a shower.”
like, ‘I still don’t quite get it’ While he encourages
but my intuition said, ‘Mate,
is stressful and clients to find the type of
pull your head out of your what is out of meditation that works for
arse and just do it’.” Soon, them, van Kekem specialises
van Kekem was noticing
our control.” in the Vedic form that uses
things about himself he a mantra to calm the mind.
didn’t even know existed. After free consultations with his clients, he
“I actually didn’t realise that I had anxiety,” assigns each one a mantra and guides them
he says. “I used to get physically ill before through the benefits, philosophy and science
big games of sport or even before a date behind meditation. They’re then assigned
sometimes. That was just normal and when homework to go away and practise on their own
I was pretty overwhelmed and stressed with before coming back for further instruction.
work I couldn’t go to bed without putting “The idea,” explains the 34-year-old, “is
headphones in to cancel out the shit noise that you can walk away to be a self-sufficient
in my head.” That soon changed when van meditator.”
Kekem started meditating regularly. For van Kekem and the millions of other
“Things like anxiety aren’t even a thing people now meditating, the opportunities
now,” he explains. “If I do feel a little butterfly really are endless. “For years I thought
I now lean into it and I feel it because I’ve healthy was meat, veg and exercising, but
done the work – I have better awareness of I had forgotten the most important part...
my body, you know? Intellectually, I feel like your brain and nervous system.”
I’ve up-levelled in how I operate.” Next time you’re updating your
But don’t take van Kekem’s word for it. It’s workout routine, it might be worth
the science, he says, that’s irrefutable. “Every adding some meditation in among the
time we meditate, it literally is rewiring our squats and the curls. As van Kekem says,
brain,” explains van Kekem. “The beautiful “Meditiation is like gym for the brain.” n
thing about our brain is its neuroplasticity – we janoah.com.au

GQ.COM.AU 71
S U P P O RT I N G PA RT N E RS
Model of the Year
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
PACO RABANNE
A superstar on the runway and a flawless
champion of diversity off it, Alton Mason
was dressed to the nines in Paco Rabanne
as he received his much-deserved award.
#GQMOTY
Welcome to the party
Consider this your backstage pass to the hottest event around – a celebration of the achievements that defined the year, from the
actors shaping the new Hollywood landscape, to the designers, musicians, artists and entrepreneurs setting the tone for 2020.
Photography Sonny Vandevelde

GQ.COM.AU 73
Men of the Year
Film Icon
IN ASSOCIATION WITH AUDI
Baz Luhrmann was awarded for
his two decades of cinematic
achievement, presented by Austin
Butler, the star of his upcoming
Elvis biopic.

E very year we say GQ’s night of nights is going to be our biggest


yet, but with the 2019 GQ Men of the Year, presented by
Audi, we really were not kidding. A mix of international superstars and
Aussie overachievers made their way to the Hyatt Regency in Sydney,
courtesy of our dear friends at Qantas and Audi, who ensured they all
arrived on time and in style – with each award winner also gifted a pair
of R.M.Williams boots. Guests were treated to Grey Goose cocktails on
arrival, before our host with the most, Mr Joel Creasey, kicked things off.
In all, 16 awards were handed out on the night, with speeches that ranged
from the hilarious to the heartfelt – and then it was time to celebrate.
Alton Mason hit the after-party dance floor in a way that only he could,
as guests sipped on Grey Goose espresso martinis and tried their luck on
the Paco Rabanne skill tester, for their chance to take home the brand’s
latest ‘1 Million’ and ‘Lady Million’ fragrances – and even win a brand-
new handbag. But just because you might not have secured a coveted
invite to our main event, that doesn’t mean you should miss out on all the
fun. Here’s a sneak peek of how it all went down backstage at the awards.

74 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


2.
1. Patrick Johnson with Fashion Brand of the Year winners Song for the Mute’s Lyna Ty and Melvin Tanaya, and Tamsin
Johnson. 2. Sophie Monk and Joel Creasey. 3. Social Force winners HoMie’s Nick Pearce and Marcus Crook. 4. The
Grey Goose bar. 5. Model Georgia Fowler and an equally stylish Audi. 6. Models Roberta Pecoraro and Bella Thomas
wearing Paco Rabanne.

1.

3. 4.

5.

6.

GQ.COM.AU 75
Men of the Year
1. 2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: LUCAS DAWSON.

1. Ensemble of the Year was awarded to the cast of True History of the Kelly Gang, accepted
by Lola Hewison, Essie Davis, Louis Hewison and awarded by Downtown Abbey’s Joanne
Frogatt (far right). 2. Kim Ledger with Jacob Elordi, the winner of TV Actor of the Year, in
association with Qantas. 3. Michael Cheika and David Pocock, the winner of the Special
Editor’s award, in association with R.M.Williams. 4. The all-new Audi ‘TT’. 5. Winners of the
Innovation Award, in association with Audi, Sipp Instant’s Luke Zocchio and Dylan Garft
with Audi’s Paul Sansom and Julie Bishop. 6. Alton Mason at the Paco Rabanne skills tester.

76 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


Woman of the Year
IN ASSOCIATION WITH AUDI
Zendaya, pictured here with GQ editor Mike
Christensen, was a deserved winner after her
performance as recovering drug addict Rue
Bennett in hit show Euphoria.

GQ.COM.AU 77
Men of the Year

Musician of the Year


A day after winning an ARIA for best children’s
album, Dan Sultan took home the coveted
musician’s award, presented by Adam Goodes.

78 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


1.
1. Jacob Elordi took home TV Actor of the Year, in association with Qantas. 2. Adam
Briggs awarded a masked Scott Marsh with Agenda Setter of the Year. 3. Our IG hosts
for the night, The Inspired Unemployed, in the Grey Goose booth. 4. Sportsperson
of the Year was won by Ash Barty, awarded by Dylan Alcott and accepted by Barty’s
parents Robert and Josie Barty. 5. GQ editorial director Edwina McCann, Joel Creasey
and Mojean Aria who presented Jason Momoa with his GQ Man of the Year award, in
association with Coach. 6. Alexander England with Breakthrough Actor of the Year, in
association with Grey Goose, Chris Pang. 7. 2018’s Chef of the Year Josh Niland (left)
presented Matt Stone with this year’s award, in association with Grey Goose.

2. 3.

4.

5.

6. 7.
ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: LUCAS DAWSON.

GQ.COM.AU 79
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THE
NEW
SOUNDS
OF
SUMMER
FEATURING
ORVILLE PECK
LIL NAS X
ONEFOUR
DOMINIC FIKE

TAME IMPALA
KEVIN PARKER STEPS OUT OF THE SHADOWS

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OUT
OF THE
SHADOWS With his most musically ambitious
album yet, Tame Impala’s Kevin Parker
is finally ready to embrace fame –
just as long as it’s on his own terms.
Photography James J Robinson Styling Petta Chua Words Noelle Faulker
Opposite: Jacket, $1595,
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84 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


I
f millennial success could be defined by any recipe, it might
be two parts viral fame, one part pop-culture myth. It’s safe
to say Kevin Parker achieved the latter during his headline
performance at Coachella last year, when the artist known
as Tame Impala used 18 cannons to blast close to 300kg of
confetti into the sky, supposedly breaking Beyoncé’s confetti
record along the way. “I don’t know if it was a record and I don’t even
know that we broke it,” he laughs, as if wary of upsetting the Beyhive.
“But someone told me that we used more confetti than her. I don’t even
know that we did use that much confetti, to be honest. Who knows?!”
In an interview with Rolling Stone after the show, the self-confessed
‘confetti diva’ half-joked he wanted even more. The entire scenario
reads like a Spinal Tap moment. “I suppose, yeah,” he says. “You don’t
know how many Spinal Tap moments we have every day. It wouldn’t be
touring without them. You just have to laugh sometimes.”
When it comes to viral fame, Parker’s continues to spread. Take
2015 Currents single ‘The Less I Know The Better’, which spawned
countless ‘Fuck Trevor’ memes that plagued those unlucky enough
to possess the name (Trevor being the fictional, girlfriend-stealing
fuccboi from the song). While last year, the sheer might of Gen-Z
TikTokers set the four-year-old Gold single on course for Double
Platinum territory.
For a five-year-old album to experience the rise and rise of Currents
is almost unheard of. But that’s the Midas touch of our most diverse
musical export: he keeps his toes in the sands of nostalgia and his
eyes on the horizon. Or, as a former astronomy student, maybe the
stars. Tame Impala, Parker’s solo moniker – he uses a band for touring
only – sounds like an esoteric find from the bottom of a dusty record
bin; a discovery, that upon first listen seems all and only yours. Of
course, the brilliant irony of Parker’s orbit is that it’s also firmly in
the mainstream.
“I haven’t done interviews in a while. So it’s been a bit of a culture
shock,” admits the 34-year-old Perth-born artist, having returned to
Australia from an international press tour, just in time for summer.
“I’ve just been in my cave, for however long,” he shrugs. “I enjoy it! I do.
Who doesn’t like talking about themselves all day?!” Without context,
most Australians would probably palm that last comment off as self-
deprecating or sarcastic. Parker absolutely means it. He is charismatic,
humble and a generous storyteller, speaking in bursts with thoughtful
pauses in-between. You easily get the feeling he is either impervious
to fame or disinterested in the conventional trappings of it. He doesn’t
flinch when GQ’s fashion team puts him in lilac Louis Vuitton, an all-
white Stella McCartney look that can best be described as ‘dystopian
cricketer’ or a furry jumper and neon-splattered pants from American
artist Sterling Ruby’s SR Studio fashion line. Though, he admits the
looks are a far cry from his usual “expensive surfie” style.

GQ.COM.AU 85
Jumper and jeans, both
POA, both by SR Studio;
shoes, $120, by Converse.
Cardigan and vest, both
POA, both by Salvatore
Ferragamo; pants, $610,
by Emporio Armani.

GQ.COM.AU 87
Knit, approx. $1140,
by Amiri; pants, $269,
by Polo Ralph Lauren;
shoes, approx. $500,
by Officine Générale;
sunglasses, approx. $970,
by Jacques Marie Mage;
necklace, $2999, by
Hardy Brothers; sheets,
POA, by Sheridan.
One gets the sense that Parker wears his ambition like a pocket by Rihanna, A$AP Rocky and Kendrick Lamar. Lady Gaga, Mark
watch that every so often catches the light and is kept to a time Ronson, Travis Scott, Kanye West, SZA and Theophilus London
zone only he inhabits. That, it seems, is part of what drives him and have all called on him to collaborate, and he has co-produced debut
probably what keeps him rising; an inherent hunger to defy what albums for Koi Child, Melody Prochet and more. “It’s way easier
people expect. Put him into the context of the last decade of music because you’re sharing the responsibility, the burden,” he explains.
and few other artists have consistently reinvented and simultaneously Does he ever selfishly squirrel tracks away? “Well, you have to
smashed the wheels they drove in on. Kevin Parker might just be the remember that any time I’ve brought something to another artist, it’s
most underestimated man in music. usually something that I’ve made by myself anyway.”
This year marks a decade since the release of his debut record, His phone is full of half-baked ideas, voice memos that may or may
Innerspeaker. Ahead of the arrival of record number four, The Slow not one day end up as songs, be it for Tame Impala, another artist or
Rush, we meet Parker at his most self-assured, having forged the something else entirely. “I have been like, ‘Ah man, I shouldn’t have
accoutrements that have seen him slide from unassuming shoegazer, given…’,” he trails off and starts laughing, “OK so ‘The Less I Know
uncomfortable under the glare of a spotlight, to full-pelt stadium The Better’ was one that I wrote on my own. I gave it to Mark Ronson
deity. “I guess there was a time when I just decided to start enjoying it for his album, but I took it back. I was putting off telling him that I
and embraced that role,” he explains. “I never even used to want to be wanted to use it for me.
a bandleader, let alone a solo artist, which I consider myself as.” “I was in America recording with him for a few days. I was like, ‘OK
The world’s music tastemakers have shown no such hesitation with now, [I’ve] got to tell him I want it for me.’ When I finally mustered
bible NME describing tracks on his last album as “a work of dazzling up the strength, he was like, ‘Oh yeah, dude, I was going to say this
beauty; the layer-cake arrangement suggesting Parker as a natural song is yours. I feel like I’ve stolen your hard drive!’ He was thinking
heir to Brian Wilson’s studio wizardry”. the same thing anyway.”
Parker has written, performed and produced his own music since At the time of writing, ‘The Less I Know The Better’ is Tame
age 12 and it just so happened he was able to hide behind Tame Impala Impala’s most-streamed song on Spotify, with the best part of 430
‘the band’. “I didn’t even want to tell people that [Tame Impala] was million plays and, as mentioned, is on the verge of going Double
mine and mine alone,” he says. “Terrified, I always pretended it was a Platinum. “I don’t know if he regrets it now. I don’t know if he knows
band that was making it in the studio.” But this isn’t another case of how successful it is… and if he realised the song was going to be as

“I JUST DECIDED, ‘FUCK IT. I’M GOING TO DO IT AND BE THAT PERSON THAT,
DEEP DOWN I WANT TO BE AND I KNOW THAT MY FANS WANT ME TO BE’.”

the old rock trope of a ‘reluctant star’. On the contrary, Parker has successful back then. He’s obviously not exactly kicking himself.”
always had ambition, he just needed to deploy it on his terms. “I just Dropping next month on Valentine’s day, The Slow Rush is Parker’s
decided, ‘Fuck it. I’m going to do it and be that person that, deep next phase. Exploring time and how we move through it, the record
down I want to be and I know that my fans want me to be, especially is soaked to the bone in existential exploration and a sense of longing.
on stage’.” Did he have to retrain his brain? “It was the opposite. It was For what, depends on your interpretation – Parker isn’t giving too
more liberating, to be honest. As an artist, people want you to be a bit much away. Youth? Legacy? Permanence? Tame Impala lyrics have
self-indulgent, they don’t want you to hold back,” he adds. often been complicated in theme while erring on the blurry side
As Australians, we are taught to hide our success and our national of ambiguity. But there are hints. ‘One More Year’, ‘Posthumous
sport of tall poppy chopping is something Parker, who has homes in Forgiveness’, ‘Tomorrow’s Dust’, ‘Lost in Yesterday’... ‘Glimmer’?
both Los Angeles and Perth, still thinks about. “I guess becoming a Each song holds and dissects time under a magnifying glass. “It
fan of Kanye West [opened my eyes],” he says. “Some of my favourite ranges from deeply personal to completely fictional and everything
people say whatever they think. Even if they talk about themselves in between,” he says. “It’s autobiographical, but from different parts
all the time. It’s something that’s frowned upon in society, but those of my life – being much younger or even pretending that I’m older. I
people are the most interesting. I say that as someone who definitely liked exploring the idea of writing from different personalities in this
isn’t one of those people, but it doesn’t hurt to embrace a bit of that.” album and as though it’s like me in a parallel universe.”
“This is the entertainment industry, after all,” we say. Think of it as more of a range of self, he explains. “Like me if I
“Exactly!” he replies. “Take Liam Gallagher. At the end of the day, wasn’t who I was right now – I’ve been getting inspired by that a lot.”
does anyone hate Liam Gallagher? No, they don’t.” Well, with the Dynamically, The Slow Rush is intricate, curious and heady, like a
possible exception of his brother, Noel. time-lapse video of the night sky or a flower blooming. It is subtle
There are few artists, let alone Antipodeans, who have managed and tidy in its refinement, and a lot to unpack. With drums front and
to straddle the world of indie, psychedelic rock, pop and rap as centre, spotting the bent and blurred genres is like playing record
effortlessly and composed as Parker has. Fewer have done so with a store bingo. ’70s art-rock? Ding! ’90s uplifting house? Ding ’00s
sound as distinct as his and have entered and exited the machine with space-pop? Ding! Neo-soul, psych-rock, hip-hop, ’10s synth-rap?
commercial acclaim and their sonic signatures (and fandom) intact. Ding, ding ding!
To name a few, Parker has been sampled, reworked and/or covered Continued on p134

GQ.COM.AU 89
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T-shirt, $49.95, by Calvin
Klein; jeans, POA, by Kloke;
shoes, $120, by Converse.

90 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


Shirt, POA, by Dolce &
Gabbana; jeans, $180,
by Ksubi; and watch,
$18,200, by Chopard;
necklace, $2999,
by Hardy brothers;
bracelets, from top,
$8600, by Tiffany &
Co.; and $1640, by
Chopard; ring, $2950,
by Tiffany & Co.
Coat, $2655, by Dries
Van Noten; shirt, $530,
by Commas; jeans,
$350, by MSGM at David
Jones; shoes, $100, by
Converse at General
Pants Co.; ring, $2950,
by Tiffany & Co.
Jumper, $1710, and pants,
$1525, both by Stella
McCartney; T-shirt, $60,
by HoMie; sneakers, $155,
by Veja; ring, $2950, by
Tiffany & Co.
Grooming Sophie Roberts
using Oribe Haircare.

GQ.COM.AU 93
A BITTER
94 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020
PILL
With festival
season upon
us, so too is
the debate
over pill
testing. And
although
the proposal
has renewed
support from
experts and
music fans
PHOTOGRAPHY: COREY WILSON.

alike, many
politicians
still remain
far from
convinced.
Words David Smiedt

GQ.COM.AU 95
S
ummer means many things in Australia. Interminable
cricket coverage, heat that makes you sweat in crevices
you never knew you had and, of course, festival season.
Music festivals are big business and no matter your
taste, chances are there’s one for you. Into old-school
sounds and a lip-syncing Janet Jackson? May we
suggest RNB Fridays. Something more contemporary? Check out Falls
Festival. Dance your thing? Buy a ticket to Festival X. And on it goes
with most every musical genre accommodated. According to a report by
Live Performance Australia, both contemporary music festival revenue
and attendance grew by over 26 per cent in the 2016-2017 period, alone.
But more festivalgoers inevitably means more drugs, chemical
cocktails that are often of dubious origin and even more questionable
composition that will let you dance all night. Or, as we’ve found in some
high-profile cases, not. As ingrained as these gatherings in the cultural
landscape are news articles about the attendees who never made it
home. Young people doing what young people do, like 18-year-old
Hoang Nathan Tran, 21-year-old Diana Nguyen, 23-year-old Joseph
Nguyen Nhu Binh Pham, 19-year-old Callum Brosnan, 22-year-old
Joshua Tam and 19-year-old Alexandra Ross King. All died recently
as a result of taking MDMA, or ecstasy. Five of the six also had other
drugs in their system.
This spate of deaths from late 2018 to 2019 resulted in a NSW Coroner’s
Report which was released in November and brought forth a raft of
recommendations. A key component of which is on-site pill testing.
Professor Alison Ritter, a specialist in drug policy from UNSW,
supports the idea. For a start, it’s what young people want, too. “More than
82 per cent of the 2300 young Australians aged between 16 and 25 years…
supported its introduction. They want to make informed choices,” she says.
It’s part of a global trend, and as Ritter points out, pill-testing has been long
available through community organisations and local government in the
Netherlands, Switzerland, Belgium, Germany and Spain.
She says at the most basic level, pill testing changes behaviours.
“Research from Austria shows 50 per cent of those who had their
drugs tested said the results affected their consumption choices. Two-
thirds said they wouldn’t consume the drug [which was found to be
tainted] and would warn friends in cases of negative results.”
If this was the only benefit of pill testing, it would be worth further
investigation and large-scale trials, but it’s not. Evidence shows it can also
impact the black-market drug supply for the better, with dangerous pills
removed from circulation. “There’s research from Europe that’s shown
that when they identify a particular pill or drug – say the pink ones with
the X and Y logos on them – word gets out that they contain a dangerous
substance. So if a dealer tries to sell them, people say no. What this research
has shown is that over time, they were detecting less and less adulterants
in the drug-checking program because dealers have to adapt to the

96 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


marketplace and savvy consumers are not going to purchase a substance system on particularly dangerous (deadly) pills, even to link in with
where there’s been an alert put out by the public health officials about it.” police to provide further forensic testing to provide information about
Ritter adds that although not everyone immediately discards what (substances) are out there.”
potentially adulterated drugs, those who choose to still partake will Matt*, a 22-year-old call-centre worker living in Sydney, needs no
often reduce how much they ingest. convincing. “I’ve been to two Groovin the Moo festivals where there
Few are better placed to comment on the impact of pill testing at the was pill-testing and both times I’ve had my gear analysed,” he says.
coal face than Dr David Caldicott from the ANU College of Health & “I’m thankful I did because the second time they found something that
Medicine and Pill Testing Australia. Twice, he has been part of a team definitely wasn’t MDMA and I was like, ‘Fuck that’. You never really
that provided government-sanctioned on-site facilities at Groovin the know what you’re getting with pills but I’d rather write off $200 or $300
Moo festival. “We knew it would work because it’s worked everywhere than have my organs shut down. I can’t say pill testing saved my life but I
else it’s been tried and we’ve been campaigning for it for over 20 years,” can’t say that it didn’t. I’d like to see more of it to be honest because people
he says. “What I wasn’t expecting was the expressions of gratitude from are kidding themselves if they think drugs are only at music festivals. I do
festival goers – I was a bit mortified quite frankly. While the purity of pills at least once a month just going out with mates and it would be great
the product certainly increased from the first year to the second, it also to know what was in them instead of just rolling the dice.”
wasn’t as high as people were expecting.” It’s not just Matt and his mates gambling on powder every other weekend.
Another of Caldicott’s in-the-field discoveries was that lurking in The Australian Drug Trends Report 2018, commissioned by the National
what were purportedly MDMA capsules was a “particularly nasty” Drug and Alcohol Research Centre, surveyed 800 participants and found
chemical called n-ethypentylone. Users have described it as ‘cracky’ cocaine use jumped by 11 per cent year on year with ecstasy/MDMA at
and far less pleasant than MDMA and its physical effects can include some of the highest levels since the survey began in 2003.
raised pulse and blood pressure, high body temperature, convulsions, From a budgetary standpoint, pill testing is a solid call. “One of the
rapid muscle breakdown and multiple organ failure. Psychologically things about drug checking is that it is relatively inexpensive compared
speaking, there’s agitation, paranoia, compulsion to redose, to either providing treatment or emergency healthcare or policing,” says
difficulty sleeping for up to 36 hours, and temporary psychosis. Ritter. It’s a point of view that has found support at the highest level of
Perhaps most disturbing is its potency. According to knowyourstuff. Australian politics. Greens leader Richard Di Natale, a former drug and
nz – which operates with the New Zealand Drug Foundation – alcohol doctor, has not only suggested the remit of pill testing go beyond
“A common dose for MDMA is around 100 milligrams, whereas a dose music festivals and into the wider community but had it costed out by
for n-ethylpentylone can be as little as 30 milligrams. If people believe the independent Parliament Budgetary Office. For $4m a year over four
they have MDMA and take 100 milligrams of n-ethylpentylone, then years, there could be 18 pill-testing services in major cities and rural
they are going to be in a very risky situation.” areas, each with a spectroscopy testing machine and five staff including
Beyond the mere chemical identification of pills, advocates are trained peer-support workers. Each facility would run four days a week
quick to point out that it does not take place in a vacuum. Rather, it ten hours a day. By way of comparison, Free TV Australia will deliver
* MATT’S REAL NAME HAS BEEN PROTECTED AT HIS REQUEST.

is the starting point for holistic discussion focused on health care as 1000 hours of Aussie television content to broadcasters in the Pacific, as
opposed to committing a prosecutable crime. the result of a $17.1m government fund over the next three years.
“The basic premise is that pill testing should not occur in isolation,” While no one is suggesting that the thin blue line should donate its
says Dr Martyn Lloyd-Jones, an honorary senior lecturer at The services gratis to what are commercial events, in just a seven-month
University of Melbourne. “It comes with advice about risks and period between this year and last, the NSW Police Force alone raked
avoiding harm. For example, if you are going to take a drug then do in almost $13m in revenue for enforcement duties at festivals.
not combine it with alcohol, ensure you are adequately hydrated, that The calls for pill-testing at festivals have been received differently
you use with friends and not alone etc. It’s about the availability of by various state governments. The ACT, for example, has conducted
health services to provide advice, support, assessment and linkage to sanctioned pill testing at two Groovin the Moo events while its NSW
treatment for those (few) who wish to access further care. It’s also neighbour has drawn a firm line in the sand over the issue, which is not
linked with feedback processes to potentially act as an early-warning to say the latter has not responded to the issue in some positive ways.

“YOU NEVER REALLY KNOW WHAT YOU’RE GETTING WITH PILLS BUT I’D RATHER
WRITE OFF $200 OR $300 THAN HAVE MY ORGANS SHUT DOWN.”

GQ.COM.AU 97
A spokeswoman for the premier said the government will consider Of even more concern is the use of strip searches for drug
the coroner’s recommendations and that NSW Health has developed detection. Across the two days of 2018’s Splendour in the Grass
harm-reduction guidelines for music festivals in consultation with festival, for example, a single NSW senior constable strip searched 19
experts. “We have already taken considerable steps to improve safety patrons. During an investigation by the Law Enforcement Conduct
at music festivals and some of the recommendations for measures such Commission, it was found that the searches yielded a single Valium
as peer-based harm reduction services are already occurring,” she said. tablet. Moreover, under questioning, the officer agreed that the
Following the December 1 death of a 24-year-old man at the Strawberry searches across the event were not lawful and only ten per cent of
Fields Festival at Tocumwal in southern NSW, Premier Gladys Berejiklian them – one of which was on a 16-year-old girl – yielded illegal drugs.
doubled down on her opposition to pill testing. “What questions would After being strip-searched at the Hidden festival in Sydney, Lucy Moore
you be asking me if we allow pill testing and over a summer 10 people took to Facebook in a post that makes for harrowing reading. Aside from
died… after someone told them there were no impurities in their pill – feeling “completely humiliated and embarrassed,” she included details such
we’d be having a very different conversation,” she told journalists. “For as, “As I have learned, police cannot ask you to squat and cough but police
every person whose life might be saved by pill testing, if that were the case, were asking us to do this”. She also raised concerns about privacy: “Not
there could be 10 others that succumb because they’re given a false sense of only did I see other people being [strip] searched, during my search the
security.” As pressure intensified on the NSW state government over the door was left half open and only ‘blocked’ by the small female cop. I could
issue, Berejiklian announced the introduction of amnesty bins at festivals, easily see outside which means that attendees and male cops could have
where attendees could dump their pills without penalty. easily seen in as well.” She was 19 at the time.
One of the most oft-cited sticking points around pill testing is that Moore’s experience formed part of the UNSW’s Rethinking Strip Searches
it’s often perceived as being just about the chemical analysis rather than by NSW Police report which called the practice “inherently humiliating
the start of a process. “Visits to pill-testing booths create an important and degrading” and found that the number of NSW Police searches has
opportunity for providing support and information over and above the increased by almost 50 per cent in the four financial years 2014-2018.
testing itself,” explains Ritter. “They enable drug services to contact a And the horror stories just keep on coming. At a five-day NSW Law
population that is otherwise difficult to reach because these people are not Enforcement Conduct Commission hearing into several strip searches
experiencing acute drug problems. Indeed, the intervention has been used undertaken at the Lost City Music Festival, an event for children aged
to establish, and as the basis for, follow-up work with members of not-yet- 13-17 held at Sydney Olympic Park in February, the counsel assisting
problematic, but nevertheless high-risk, groups of recreational drug users.” the commission Dr Peggy Dwyer told the proceedings only five of
Will Tregoning from unharm.org, a not-for-profit founded in 2014 that’s 30 teenagers police strip-searched during the event had a parent or
focused on preventing drug addiction, is also in favour. “These services guardian present while the procedure was completed, despite it being
have been operating internationally for around 30 years and have been required by law. While it should be acknowledged that the conduct
really successful in engaging people who use drugs in health consultations, hearing taking place at all is a step in the right direction, this hopeful
where they receive the results of pill analysis,” he says. “It facilitates what positivity is immediately clouded by revelations such as that from a
might be the first discussion they’ve ever had with a health professional 15-year-old boy who was told, during a drug strip search by an officer,
about their drug use. There are myriad benefits beyond what’s in a certain “Hold your dick and lift your balls up and show me your gooch”. The
pill. For example, emergency services can better manage a critical incident commission heard the boy was separated from his older brother and
by knowing what they’re dealing with.” placed in a security area before police searched both his wallet and
The challenge for Tregoning and many others in favour of pill testing phone, including his messages, without permission. All of this was
lies in convincing authorities that just saying no is not a sufficient response prompted by a lone sniffer dog loitering near him.
to the reality of illegal drugs. He says that positive changes are taking place The practice has sparked unprecedented action among frontline
though: “I think community sentiment is on board. We have majority doctors. In November, 27 senior clinicians from Sydney’s St Vincent’s
support in Australia for pill testing. Even in parliament, there is extensive Hospital wrote an open letter urging NSW Premier Berejiklian to
support. The barrier right now is a relatively small group of reactionary scrap strip searches and adopt pill testing. “We find it abhorrent
politicians highly committed to the ‘just say no’ message as a way of that strip searches are used to investigate young people – including
demonstrating a particular version of toughness which they find plays well children – for personal possession,” wrote Dr Jennifer Stevens. “Strip
to minority groups that they focus on in their constituency” searches, as currently conducted, demean both the individual and the
That ‘toughness’ has also been kicked up a notch with the policing police conducting the search.”
of drugs at festivals via sniffer dogs. It’s an approach that was marked The letter followed a recent incident in which a teenage girl went to
out for criticism by NSW Deputy Coroner Harriet Grahame in her police for help after hiding two pills vaginally. Rather than being sent for a
report where she recommended a ban on dogs entirely. medical help, she was subjected to a strip search and three internal medical
While these measures certainly do recover illegal drugs, Graham examinations, which uncovered no drugs but appalled medical staff at the
pointed to research published in the International Journal of Drug Policy inner-city hospital.
which found that they also lead to festival goers taking drugs before the But it seems the police are not backing down. Or at least the NSW
festival, ingesting double the dose or panicking and swallowing drugs Minister for Police isn’t. Asked to respond to data sourced by the
quickly to avoid detection. Redfern Legal Centre – which found that 122 underage girls had been

“I THINK COMMUNITY SENTIMENT IS ON BOARD. WE HAVE MAJORITY SUPPORT IN


AUSTRALIA FOR PILL TESTING. EVEN IN PARLIAMENT, THERE IS EXTENSIVE SUPPORT.”

98 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


Pill-testing supporters gather at a rally outside Sydney Town Hall last year.

strip searched in the state since 2016 – David Elliott said, “I’ve got For David Caldicott, much of this has already been achieved. Albeit
young children and if I thought the police felt they were at risk of on the smaller scale of the ACT. “We’ve been able to sit down with
doing something wrong, I’d want them strip-searched.” our counterparts in law enforcement, and commit to try and make
What’s all the more galling for the likes of Tregoning is that our festivals ‘death free’ as a priority, rather than the focus on them
government spin is playing a role in what can genuinely be a matter being ‘drug free’.
of life and death. “What we’re seeing is a failure of leadership in “Law enforcement has a critical role in reducing supply – that’s what
parliament,” he says. “The most frustrating thing is that in both major they do best. But reducing demand? That’s my gig. So while other
parties there would be people who recognise that this is a valuable thing jurisdictions rely entirely on police interdiction, here in the ACT,
to do. The barriers are all political in the sense that it’s all about how we have a safety net that acknowledges the reality of consumption.
might we create the best bang for our buck in terms of meeting the I mean, if we can’t keep drugs out of our prisons, what chance do we
perceived agenda of our constituents. It’s not like, ‘How can we do the have of keeping them out of festivals?”
best thing for the health and welfare of people in this state?’ It’s, ‘What While the equation that pill testing = lives saved is an oversimplified
are people going to think of us as a party? How can we message this? one with far too many variables to definitively conclude one way or
How can we make this work best for us?’ And the fact that that kind of another, Caldicott will say this: “From the earliest days of pill testing,
calculation happens in a context where people are dying is appalling.” we’ve known that it reduces the rates at which people mix their drugs,
To paint law-enforcement as the one-dimensional bad guys in all of and the absolute quantities of drugs consumed. Both of those are
this is both unfair and misleading. It is also decidedly unhelpful in a independent risk factors for overdose, and subsequently death.”
debate which is easily oversimplified. It’s on the topic of mortality that his soft Irish brogue hardens into
Professor Paul Komesaroff from Monash University notes, “It’s a somethingsteepedinyearsoffrustration.Hepointsoutthattheorganisation
complicated environment. There are serious risks, and we’ve got to he works with, Pill Testing Australia, has offered every jurisdiction in the
work our way through it in a careful and mature way. Neither side is country a free trial at a time and festival of their choosing. Take up has been
completely in the clear. We will have to work very carefully with the theoretical at best and politely declined at worst.
police force, and in a number of places, including especially Victoria at “I have a theory why our opponents are so against what we do. It’s not
the moment, that’s one of the main sticking points. I think the police about the pill testing itself – it runs far deeper than that,” says Caldicott. “It
have looked at this in an appropriate and honourable way, and they’re represents a far scarier prospect for those so committed to an approach to
concerned about the ambiguous positions that they will be put in. On drugs that globally has passed its sell-by date. Pill testing represents a place
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES.

the one hand, it’s their job to enforce the law as it stands at the moment. where discussions about drug policy are happening around Australian
On the other hand, if there’s pill testing, there will be clearly some sort dinner tables, and discussion is the last thing that advocates of prohibition
of process according to which people who are in possession of illegal want. And for some, that’s terrifying.”
substances will somehow have to be ignored or excused. This season, as with many before it, festivalgoers – rather than
“But we can find ways around these issues. It’s not a discussion where politicians – are the ones who will be taking all the risks on the pill-
one side is going to crash through and defeat the other. There needs to testing issue. And like too much cricket, sun and time spent at the
be a process of cooperation, where people acknowledge the issues and the beach, tragedy is likely to become just another all-too predictable part
tensions and find ways to work together to solve the problem.” of the Australian summer. n

GQ.COM.AU 99
DOMINIC FIKE
Beneath the controversial come-up lies a talented artist that might
just set the blueprint for the future of modern pop stars.
Photography James Tolich Styling Petta Chua Words Christopher Riley

100 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


And yet, over a year later, he’s still here. His breakout single,
‘3 Nights’ has hit No.1 in three countries, including in Australia
where it quickly went Triple Platinum; he’s sold out a world tour; can
count America’s favourite boy band Brockhampton as friends and the
likes of DJ Khaled and Kourtney Kardashian as fans. Safe to say, the
hype has not come and gone.
When we sit down with Fike, it’s the day before the Sydney leg
of his Rain or Shine tour and it seems as if he could fall asleep at any
moment. He’s friendly but not entirely there, as if his body is floating
through the day without his mind fully onboard.
Taking a while to warm up, Fike becomes animated when we
discuss the kind of music he makes. His songs have frustrated critics
for their refusal to sit neatly within a certain genre, but to Fike, that’s
perfectly normal.
“It just grows – it’s a vibe,” he says smiling. “Like, it’s literally
changing every second. There’s no plan to make this genre, we just
fucking do what we hear. We have the Internet so… there’s no reason
to stick in lanes.”
This sums up not only Fike and the generation of artists he’s coming
up with, but also the caution that follows their meteoric ascent. For many
of today’s scene, the Internet isn’t this relatively new beast that needs to
be treated with respect and caution, it’s simply a part of their lives, a tool
that has always, and will always be there. Like Lil Nas X and Frank Ocean
before him, Fike’s music can be considered rock, pop and/or rap depending

T
on what song you choose, or even what part of the song you choose. This
he first thing you notice about Dominic Fike are the is not a deliberate attempt to blend genres, more a product of having the
tattoos. Each blink reveals two red Xs that seem to Internet’s vast range of influences at their fingertips.
dance above his eyelids as he talks. They’re not the When we ask about another controversy at the heart of Fike’s
only ink on his face either; there’s the outline of an narrative – the decision to wipe all his past projects upon the release
apple that sits beneath his right eye – an homage to of Don’t Forget Me, Demos – the response is the same. This wasn’t some
the 24-year-old’s little sister rather than the tech strategic call; he just did it because he felt like it. “Yeah, that’s just a
giant – and three symbols that skirt along the edge of his boyish face, habit of mine,” he says casually.
a look that puts him somewhere between cherubic and heroin chic. Like many of his contemporaries, Fike has circumnavigated the
In all, it’s an appearance that, like Fike’s music, is hard to ignore. traditional route to success within the music industry. Both his sound
But the truth is, the world still doesn’t quite know what to make of and his image refuse to be put in a box and with that comes a certain
Dominic Fike. Not yet, anyway. Because, even in the age of the Lil type of hate from the industry’s insiders. Not that he seems to care.
Pumps and the Billie Eilishs, wherein homemade Internet sensations “The Internet is going to be the Internet,” he says. “You can’t look
can, and frequently do, become legitimate superstars, Fike’s journey into it too much… They can tweet that shit all day, like, ‘Fuck you,
has been a little unorthodox. I can’t do shit’. So it is what it is.”
The world first took notice in mid-2018 when it was rumoured he’d The thing is, the rumours and the criticism around Fike seem to miss
sparked a bidding war among the world’s major labels. It was eventually one important detail – one that becomes abundantly clear after just a
reported that Columbia Records had acquired Fike’s signature for short discussion with the singer. People are throwing money at him, not
nearly $6m, beating out the likes of Republic, Interscope, Atlantic, because he’s the beneficiary of some nefarious industry push, but because
RCA and Epic. he looks and sounds like an incarnation of everything that’s popular
These days, a major record label paying big bucks for an emerging in today’s market. With long, lithe limbs and a youthful face, he’s so
star is hardly shocking. But this one felt different. Firstly, when anyone photogenic as to look custom-made for Instagram. His sound, too, in
searched for music from the artist who’d set the industry alight, there all its genre-less ambiguity, could be a soundtrack for Gen Z. Charged
was nothing to be found. It seemed, as Rolling Stone reported, “as if the with the chaos of Soundcloud rap then softened with catchy Red Hot
label had thrown a reported $6m to a ghost”. Chili Pepper-inspired guitar riffs, it’s a hypnotic mix that The New Yorker
Then came the arrest. When Fike’s debut EP Don’t Forgot About Me, described, matter of factly, as the “the future of popular music”.
Demos dropped in October 2018, he was sitting in a jail cell, charged As our time with him draws to a close, so too does Fike’s energy
with assaulting a police officer in his hometown of Naples, Florida. All levels. The red Xs no longer dance above his eyes but lie lazily as if
this, it seemed was a little far-fetched. Arrests, behind-closed-doors waiting for the signal to clock off. We take the hint and ask one final
bidding wars, mysterious back catalogues – it sounded like the sort of question: is there anything else he wants to share with those following
thing labels cook up to create an artificial buzz around an artist. The his journey? Fike pauses briefly before responding: “Be patient with
Internet, meanwhile, had taken little time in making its mind up – me and I will deliver.”
Dominic Fike must be an industry plant. From what we’ve seen so far, that seems as safe a bet as any. n

GQ.COM.AU 105
Jacket, $1946, pants, $1,003, T-shirt,
$449, shoes, $396, and socks, POA,
all by Off-White; top earring, $40,500,
by Bulgari; and bottom earring,
$59,500, by Tiffany & co.
LIL NAS X
In a matter of months, the 20-year-old experienced the delirious spectrum
of emotion that comes with overnight success – from the glorious highs of
‘Old Town Road’ to the relentless demands of sudden fame.
Words Caroline McCloskey Photography Michael Schmelling Styling Jon Tietz

112 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


I
t’s Saturday morning and Lil Nas X is spent. At an hour when of a single was a second, more radical statement, presented in the guise
many 20-year-olds are still sleeping off last night, he’s under of indisputable fact: for 19 consecutive weeks in 2019, the most popular
the hot lights of a studio in downtown LA, fielding on-camera song in the world was a country tune by a gay black rapper.
questions from his fans on the Internet. He does everything Swaddled in a black waffle-weave robe, Nas X beaches himself on a
that’s asked of him, even delivers two-line readings of the low-slung sofa in a dim corner of the studio, rests his chin on folded
dictated script, but when the camera is off, he goes slack. “I’m hands and yawns. With the gentle din of the caterer unloading lunch in
sorry, I’m tired,” he says. the background and everyone (wardrobe, makeup, producers, publicist,
This is not a solitary, one-rough-morning kind of sleepy (although maybe PA) temporarily turning their backs to us, conditions are possibly too
it’s that too). What it more closely resembles is the chronic exhaustion – relaxing. Nas X flutters his eyes closed. And then, like a dragon that had
that sadistic combination of isolation and vigilance and personal sacrifice – momentarily forgotten about its gold and its enemies, he blinks them
of the new parent, which, in a way, is what he is: Nas X’s career as a celebrity back open and props himself up on his elbows, ready to go.
is still in its infancy and must be tended to at all times. If he leaves it alone This time last year, Nas X was sleeping on the floor of his sister’s house
for even a second, he senses, something disastrous might happen. in Georgia – but actually he wasn’t sleeping much at all. He had just
You can’t blame the guy for wanting to protect and grow the thing he’s dropped out of college to pursue music full-time, had zero income, and
made, and you also can’t blame him for needing a break from it. Nas X is was “leeching off family members,” he says, to get by. Days and nights were
living a year that is unimaginable to anyone on the sidelines. Today he’s spent online, promoting his music. “I was feeling very stressed and afraid
promoting ‘Panini’, the second single off his EP, 7, whose video, after for my health,” he recalls. “Just being in a place where you’re not knowing
two weeks, has been viewed more than 65 million times on YouTube. But exactly what’s going to happen, how long it’s going to take.”
when you consider that the track’s predecessor is the record-shattering, On December 2, 2018, he posted a snippet of ‘Old Town Road’ on
genre-straddling juggernaut ‘Old Town Road’, a song that leapt out of Twitter and shortly thereafter threw it on SoundCloud. It wasn’t quite
the Internet last year to surpass such titans as Drake and Bieber and as naive a gesture as tossing a penny in the well and making a wish – by
Swift – not to mention Elvis, Madonna, the Beatles, and all the rest – to design the song had broad appeal, and over the years Nas X had cultivated
become the longest-running No. 1 song in Billboard history (the ‘Official an online audience and some skill at marketing his work on social media –
Movie’ remix with Billy Ray Cyrus has more than 400 million views on but it wasn’t too far off. Still he was optimistic. “I thought it was definitely
YouTube), you understand how high the bar for Nas X has been set. something that was gonna put me on another level of people knowing
The meme-like appeal of ‘Old Town Road’, a two-minute PG-rated who I was,” he says. “It’s something you can actually listen to as well as
trap-country ditty – front-loaded with frontier imagery, delivered something you can laugh to.” He generated memes and worked comment
with an attitude of gently defiant individualism, and leavened by threads to direct attention to the track, which soon found traction in the
goofiness – managed to transcend America’s combustible on-the- meme community. During this time, he says, “I’m looking at numbers
ground culture wars and prove irresistible to a shockingly broad but also promoting the shit out of it, ’cause it’s moving so fast, but you
audience: ‘Old Town Road’, it seemed, was one thing many people want to keep the momentum going. You don’t want to try to move on
could agree on. Kids love it. Barack Obama loves it. My yoga teacher too quickly.”

“I THOUGHT IT WAS SOMETHING THAT WAS GONNA PUT ME ON ANOTHER LEVEL...


IT’S SOMETHING YOU CAN ACTUALLY LISTEN TO AS WELL AS LAUGH TO.”

loves it. But it was a whiff of scandal that ultimately tipped the song After the song made its way to the social media video-sharing
into the stratosphere. platform TikTok in March, Nas’s life entered warp speed: hitting the
In March, shortly after ‘Old Town Road’ charted, Billboard charts, signing with Columbia, collaborating with Cyrus – all within
declared it ineligible in the country category, a decision many regarded a few weeks. In April he performed live, for the first time ever, with
as a barely veiled get off my lawn-style message from Nashville. As it Cyrus and Diplo at Stagecoach, in front of thousands of fans. To go
happened, the remix with Cyrus was already in the works – a generous- from anonymity behind a screen to major public debut seems a freaky
spirited creative co-signing that doubled as a slick piece of business, leap, I say, but Nas literally yawns (again). “No, not really, just ’cause
since veteran Cyrus lent newcomer Nas X some institutional-country I had been building up to that moment. I knew it was coming. And even
cred while gaining an injection of cultural relevance for himself posting that first video, [where I’m] dancing to the song, was kind of
(bringing new audiences to both in the process). When the remix breaking that mould of more confidence to do that, so it wasn’t anything
dropped the following week, it shot to the top of the Billboard Hot crazy.” And this is kind of the point: For Nas, who grew up on the
100 and parked there. And then, having scaled those impossible Internet – taking refuge in it, fucking around on it, finding community
heights and surveyed the view, Nas X came out in a series of tweets at in it – the distinction between the online world and the quote-unquote
the end of June, a glorious assertion of identity that transcended the 'real one' is fluid, essentially nonexistent. A stage is a stage.
petty ground wars playing out below him: Nas X is more than a song He remembers first going online at seven, logging on to “the big
or a genre. Embedded in the runaway success of this apolitical bonbon bad computer at the library – I’d be playing games and on YouTube. It

GQ.COM.AU 113
was good times.” As a kid, he moved around a bit, living mostly with
his father and various configurations of siblings and stepsiblings (Nas
X is the baby) outside Atlanta. He’d always been a good student, but by
14 he was increasingly applying his aptitude toward figuring out the
Internet, he says, “seeing how people respond to certain situations and
stuff, and seeing the things that become trends and go viral. Learning
how the Internet works is a lot like how the world works, in a way.”
Nas X’s familiarity with the tidal forces of virality – the way it thrusts
you up and just as swiftly will knock you back down – prepared him for
the inevitable confrontations to come. During the Billboard brouhaha,
people wanted him to react. When, during a televised conversation,
Kevin Hart appeared to be dismissive of the bravery required to come
out as a gay black rapper, people wanted Nas X to be outraged out loud.
But whatever his private feelings, he has publicly shrugged these things
off. “I think just me, being a troll myself, helps [me] not really care too
much about what commentators said. Because I know how I was when
I was in that position. I had nothing going on and I was a hater, so
I understand the position.” His strategy for slaying troll armies, he says, is
simple: “The only way to fight it is to keep succeeding. It’s the only thing.
Because… people want to see you win, but not win too much.”
Of his decision to come out, which he did on the last day of Pride
Month, Nas says, “I’m in a position where I can do whatever I do,
kinda, so it’s like, ‘Why not? Who’s gonna stop me?’” It was also
an effort to control his own story, to remain the sole owner of it, to
retain the power. “One hundred per cent. That’s what I wanted to
do. [The response] was overwhelming support, and it blocked out any
negativity.” He’s in a relationship now but admits, “It’s kinda hard.”
Are you always surrounded by people?
“I feel surrounded but still alone, somehow.”
Kind of like being on the Internet?
“Yeah, in a way. I feel like everything has changed but everything’s
the same.”
As we talk, his attention slides in and out of focus. Sometimes, when
mulling a response, he taps soft codes on his left palm like it’s a phone
he’s texting on, or repeats questions slowly, word by word, as if translating
from moon language. He’s tried meditating to center himself, he says,
“but it just became me realising that I was just trying to hurry up and
open my eyes more than actually meditate.” Every now and then he has a
day off, “but I don’t end up relaxing,” he says. “I just end up on my phone.”
Personal relationships, diet, sleep – these things fall by the wayside,
because right now Lil Nas X is on a mission. “I feel like I’ll always be able to
maintain, but my focus is definitely on building. My only thing I do think
about is already reaching so many tippy-top moments. Of course you can
always make bigger moments in different fields.” Music, he explains, is just
the beginning of his story. “Of course I’m going to do other things. Acting,
modeling, fashion – I want to get into the gaming world somehow, because
that’s an industry that’s about to really blow up more.”
Whether you’re hunting big game or scrambling to survive, it can be
hard to know when and if to put down your weapon, and Nas X freely
acknowledges that “enough,” for him, is an alien concept. “I don’t think
that’s a real thing. Once you feel like you’ve had enough, you’re just
waiting to die.
“Even right now, with this song – this is my currency, with ‘Panini,’”
he says. He pauses, considering the motor of his relentless drive. “I don’t
know. It’s just fear, I guess.”
Fear of what?
“Fear that everything is going to go back to how I was.” n

114 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


AUSTRALIA’S MOST WANTED

They’re the
most exciting
and the most
controversial
group in
Australian
music. GQ
sits down
with OneFour
at what will
either be the
moment their
career took
off, or the
end of it all.
Words Christopher Riley
Photography Jake Terrey

116 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


“WE GREW UP WITH OUR PARENTS, OUR AUNTIES, UNCLES ‘I back my shank and you pull yours and see who will take off first,’
AND COUSINS IN THE CHOIR. BUT WE HATED IT, GETTING JM raps on ‘The Message’, lyrics that have become the soundtrack to
DRAGGED TO CHOIR PRACTICE. IT JUST WASN’T OUR OneFour’s Mount Druitt.
THING, YA KNOW. SO WE GOT OUT, STARTED SINGING But if the lyrics are violent, OneFour will tell you that’s because they
IN THE CHOIR OUT ON THE STREETS.” – JM come from a violent place. “You’re going to rap about princesses if all you

D
see is princesses,” says YP. “We rap about what we’ve seen growing up.”
epending on who you talk to, OneFour’s YP, Lekks, “It’s not the city,” says YP of his hometown. “It’s a bit less fortunate
JM and Spenny are either a group of trailblazing than others. It’s out west, ya know. When you can’t afford to live in
musicians putting Australian hip hop on the map, the city, you got to go out west. A lot of housing commissions and
in spite of persistent, unjust police harassment; that. But I didn’t see it as no ‘hood’, I just grew up there, it’s my home.”
or, they’re a gang of thugs, whose music incites The group’s depiction of home, however shocking for those not
violence and whose very presence poses a threat not accustomed to ‘The Area’, has shone light on a community often forgotten
just to their community but perhaps all of us. in Australia’s growing metropolis. A far cry from the city’s affluent
Today, though, they’re just hungry. And we mean literally ravenous. centre, the suburb in Western Sydney is more commonly associated with
Arriving on set just after 9am, they offer a round of polite hellos before negative portrayals, such as controversial 2015 series Struggle Street. SBS
diving headfirst into the breakfast spread. The bacon and egg rolls get writer and Mount Druitt local Winnie Dunn describes it as “the place art
demolished first, then come the croissants. The pots of yoghurt and comes to die”. That is, until OneFour came along.
granola, meanwhile, are left untouched. In an article last August, Dunn describes the experience of watching
In tracksuits and Nike TNs the boys circle the table with a mixture of OneFour’s music video to ‘The Message’ with her younger siblings:
excitement and wariness – it’s the first time they’ve done a shoot like this, “We all yelled, ‘Ayyyyyeee!’ as we saw OneFour with their boys
their manager Ricky Simandjuntak explains. In two days, the group’s jumping in front of Mt Druitt Courthouse, Mt Druitt Station and
youngest member YP, along with Lekks, the oldest, will face sentencing Dawson Mall behind the Mt Druitt Westfield whilst waving bright
for their roles in a bar fight in July 2018 that left one man with facial orange smoke flares. Places we all visited on the daily were now on the
fractures. But if there’s any anxiety, they don’t show it. Not yet, anyway. map. We were proud.”
Having spent most of the year with his identity hidden behind a Not everyone shares Dunn’s enthusiasm. For all the fans they might
balaclava, YP opted to unmask during the video to last November’s have, their music is also attracting the wrong kind of attention – the sort
‘In the Beginning’. The boyish 19-year-old bounding around the of scrutiny that could mean the year they’ve had will go down as both
studio today contrasts the masked individual whose lyrics include the the group’s biggest and its last. With the police claiming OneFour’s
menacing declaration, ‘Retaliation is a must, ain’t no maybes ifs or buts’. members don’t just have criminal backgrounds but are tied to illegal
“Instead of hiding behind the mask, I just wanted to take the music gang activity, they’ve repeatedly prevented the group from performing,
more seriously,” he explains of the decision. “Before, it was there for and consequently, from earning any real money from their music.
other reasons we’re not going to get into but when I took it off, I felt Simandjuntak rejects this idea. “Before the music they were in
more like a proper artist.” labouring jobs,” he tells GQ. “Just because you have been in trouble
And not just any artist. Starting the year as complete unknowns, with the police doesn’t mean you’re in a gang.”
YP and the rest of OneFour have become one of the biggest things in When tapped to support Mercury Prize-winning UK artist
Australian music, let alone rap. Offering their own unique take on ‘drill’ Dave during his sold-out tour in July, the venue, Sydney’s Enmore
– an offshoot of hip hop that originated in Chicago in the early-10s before Theatre, was forced to pull them from the show citing “unforeseen
spreading to London – their music videos have repeatedly gone viral, and unavoidable circumstances”. While the old adage, ‘all publicity
captivating not just Western Sydney, but the rest of Australia, the UK is good publicity’, is an often-accurate depiction of the entertainment
and America. English superstar Skepta’s a fan, as is Ebro Darden, the host industry, this occasion didn’t appear to come with any silver lining.
of arguably America’s biggest hip hop radio station, New York’s Hot 97. OneFour went from emerging underground stars to notorious
“We got fans from every corner of the world just showing mad criminals, with an article in The Daily Telegraph asserting a special
love,” explains YP of the growing movement. “It’s crazy.” police strike force had been set up to “look at gangs such as OneFour”.
Their songs have a combined 73 million streams and have claimed Each performance since that ill-fated July gig followed the same
three out of YouTube’s top 10 trending Australian music videos of 2019. format: shows would be advertised, shows would sell out, shows would
That’s one more than Tones and I, the artist who stole the show at get shut down. OneFour’s manager claims they’ve been cancelled
November’s ARIA awards with four wins from eight nominations and due to police pressure. Talking to GQ, Simandjuntak explains each
who holds the longest number-one song in the chart’s history. In short, one has followed a similar pattern: first venues would receive a letter
it’s hard to remember a moment like this. Australia’s had indie bands outlining the need for additional police presence at an additional cost,
command international attention, and Australia more than pulls its and when the group would agree to foot the additional bill, police
weight in the pop world with stars like Ruel and Troye Sivan. But a hip would then threaten a review of the venue’s liquor licence.
hop group made up of Samoan-Australians from Mount Druitt? Never. Sydney’s Enmore Theatre did not respond to request for comment
Coming from one of Sydney’s toughest neighbourhoods, they rap but a letter obtained by Triple J’s Hack in November appears to
about life on the street with an alarming sense of realism. Credited as confirm this. Days before a scheduled OneFour show in Melbourne,
Australia’s first drill group, they take their cues from the UK scene the venue received a letter from police warning a review of its liquor
thriving out of London, putting a distinctly Aussie spin on the genre’s licence, claiming police had “received information and hold concerns”
dark, gritty aesthetic. With its fast tempo and often unrelentingly regarding the safety of the concert. Following the Melbourne
violent subject matter, drill is hard to stomach for a lot of people. cancellation, the group was forced to pull all Australian dates from

118 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


OneFour members JM (top left), younger brother YP (bottom left), Lekks (top right) and Spenny.

GQ.COM.AU 119
their debut headline tour, leaving a single Auckland show their only attention is warranted but the amount they are receiving is bullshit.
opportunity to perform. The gig would go ahead without incident. They’re either paid or are paying for the crimes they have committed.”
For the group’s members, it’s letting the fans down that hurts the YP and Lekks would begin to pay for their crimes two days after our
most. “Everyone’s like, ‘Can’t wait for this weekend’, getting their fits interview. Sentenced to four years in prison for their involvement in a
ready and that,” says YP. “To find out it’s shutdown, it’s a big bummer.” brawl inside a pub in Rooty Hill, the pair won’t be eligible for parole
This is hardly the first, nor will it be the last time a group of musicians until at least late-2021. Former member Celly would also be sentenced
have found themselves at odds with the police. But the sustained way the to 10 years for his role in the fight.
police have seemingly targeted OneFour has led many, such as rapper and Shortly after sentencing, CCTV footage of the incident was released
industry mogul Adam Briggs, to believe they’re being unfairly singled out. to the media. It makes for alarming viewing and there is little doubt
“The way OneFour are being treated is unfair & bullshit,” he tweeted the pair deserve time atoning for their crimes. But what Latukefu and
in November. “Let the boys play. Let them thrive and be great.” others want people to understand is that while no one is denying the
“I don’t get it,” says Spenny. “Because, back then when we were worse boys have a criminal past, by preventing them from performing and
we didn’t have this much pressure from the police. We’re trying to do making music, they are also being denied the opportunity to build a
something good; it feels like they’re treating us more like criminals.” legitimate future.
The police, meanwhile, say they’re simply doing their job. “While The need to switch up the narrative is not lost on the group today.
police provide safety and security advice to venues, promoters, and At times during our interview, they inspect the tape-recorder in
other stakeholders ahead of major events,” a November statement read, front of them with barely concealed suspicion, as if cautious of saying
“the decision as to whether or not an event will proceed lies with the too much – or too little. Questions are met with a volley of raised
relevant venue.” At the time of writing, the NSW police did not respond eyebrows between one another as if searching for clues on who should
to requests for comment. break rank first.
But it’s not just the shows attracting the attention of the police. According Spenny sits back in his chair as if to create distance between himself
to a December report by the ABC, they are alleged to have requested and this foreign object in front of him. YP, on the other hand, does
OneFour’s content be removed from streaming services and have even the opposite. Conscious his time is running out, he offers answers
gone as far as to serve Simandjuntak with a notice preventing him from more readily than the others, eager to show a side of himself not seen
communicating with the group’s members. What started as a rags to riches through the music. When questioned on the group’s public perception,
tale has morphed into something far more complicated, with media outlets he almost throws his voice at the recorder, desperate to be heard.

“THEY JUST THINK WE’RE A BUNCH OF CRIMINALS RAPPING ABOUT A BUNCH OF


CRIMES. BUT WHEN THEY GET TO MEET US IT’S A WHOLE DIFFERENT PERSONA.”

describing a war between OneFour and the police along the same lines as “They just think we’re a bunch of criminals rapping about a bunch
NWA’s famous clashes with the LAPD back in the early-90s. Following of crimes and that,” he says. “But when they get to meet us it’s a whole
supposed gang ties and lyrics that incited violence against the police, the different persona, you know what I mean. A lot more love when they
Compton-based group were served a ‘cease and desist’ letter from the FBI, get to see us in person.”
preventing them from performing around America. While YP and the rest of OneFour have risen to huge popularity off
Likewise, NSW police have outlined they stand ready to use similar the back of their unapologetic recounting of life in the street – crimes
tactics against OneFour if necessary, claiming a lyric from YP in March’s and all – their perceived authenticity is also one of the reasons for
‘The Message’ refers to a murder of a rival gang member. ‘21 what, one their continued troubles. Although filmmakers require us to suspend
got knocked, (hah!) I guess that makes them 20.’ YP, on the other hand, our disbelief in order to truly enjoy cinema, the strength of drill lies
asserts the line is pure fiction. “I just came up with it one day in my room,” in its supposed realness; artists require us to believe they are rapping
he told ABC’s Osman Faruqi. “I was like, ‘Yeah it’s a sick line!’” about things they have seen and possibly even done. But, as OneFour
Sergeant Nathan Trueman of Strike Force Raptor, a police unit has found, the risk is that people continue to believe the narrative
originally set up to combat bikie gangs and other organised crime after the song has ended.
syndicates, told ABC’s Background Briefing he and his team have “serious With OneFour’s ability to perform still in jeopardy, a gradual
crime prevention orders” in their “back pocket” if they need – a claim that movement away from drill’s controversial image might just be the
former NSW director of public prosecutions Nicholas Cowdery has said group’s best, or perhaps only chance of survival.
would be “perversion of the original intention of the legislation”. As if to acknowledge this fact, Spenny tells us their signature
For musician Hau Latukefu, this treatment is getting out of hand. aesthetic is about to get a facelift. “You should hear the new music
The host of Triple J’s hip hop show operates as a sort of A&R for the we’re cooking up,” he says with excitement. “We got new stuff that
group, offering advice and helping out in the studio but largely, he isn’t too… ya know… it’s more ‘music’ music. That’s the way we’re
says, he’s there as “the cool uncle”. gonna go with it. It’s our longevity, ya know.”
“I knew there was something special there,” says Latukefu of Maybe. But with YP and Lekks now behind bars for at least the next
meeting the group. “Not only were they talented artists, they were two years, whether their fans will get the chance to hear it remains
young Pacific Islanders. I felt a sense of connection and pride. to be seen. And depending on who you ask, that’s either desperately
“As young men who grew up in a tough environment, some of the unfair, or just another case of four guys from Mount Druitt getting
things they did, I didn’t agree with, but it was their life… Some police what they deserve. n

GQ.COM.AU 121
CHAOS AT
THE TOP OF
It was one of the most arresting viral photos
of the year: a horde of climbers clogged atop
Mount Everest. But it only begins to capture
the deadly realities of what transpired that day
at 9000 metres. These are the untold accounts
of the people who were there.
Words Joshua Hammer

PHOTGRAPHY: AFP PHOTO /@NIMSDAI PROJECT POSSIBLE.

122 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


THE WORLD

GQ.COM.AU 123
I
t was morning and bright, and Reinhard Grubhofer, camp. Grubhofer’s expedition was untouched, but no one from either the
depleted and dehydrated, hoisted his body over a crest and Tibetan or the Nepali side of Everest summited that season.
rose uneasily. There, from the summit of Mount Everest, Returning to the mountain hadn’t been cheap. Grubhofer, who
he could see everything. How the earth curved gorgeously works for a sightseeing company in Vienna, paid $96,000 for a package
in all directions; how wisps of clouds sailed beneath his that included travel to and from Tibet, visas, guide and Sherpa fees,
boots. The view – out beyond his worries – was beautiful. and the $16,000 permit issued by the Chinese government. Reaching
But closer at hand, he could see trouble taking shape. He could feel the summit this time around represented a special kind of thrill, but
it, too, shuffling with a dozen other climbers onto a slim patch of he refused to celebrate until he was safely down the mountain. Late in
ground roughly the size of two ping pong tables. The space was the morning, as he made his way along the crowded trail, a fog rolled
crowded. Shakily, Grubhofer held up a small flag and posed for in, the wind whipped up, and snow began to fall.
photos with his climbing partner, a fellow Austrian named Ernst Around noon Grubhofer arrived at the most dangerous obstacle
Landgraf, who’d made the slog to the summit uneasily. It had been a on the northern side: step two, a roughly 30-metre drop, negotiated
brutal day. Their 13-man party had awoken at 11 the previous night this time by three rickety ladders placed against the rock-and-ice
and trudged through the darkness up the icy incline of Everest’s façade. The first ladder was about nine metres long. To reach it, a
north side. Along the way, the temperatures dipped to well below climber had to twist his body to face the mountain and extend his
-170 C. At some point, the water bottle that Grubhofer packed had heavy, crampon-covered boot past an overhang, feeling blindly for
frozen into a solid brick. He was thirsty and exhausted. But he tried the first rung. It was here that the half-dozen climbers ahead of him
not to pay attention to any of that now. After weeks of waiting and ground to a sudden halt.
years of planning, Grubhofer had made it. It was 9:30 am on May 23, Why the hell aren’t we moving? Grubhofer wondered. What’s holding
and a less experienced climber might have thought that the hard part up the line?
was over. Grubhofer knew better. He swiftly identified the problem: a woman in a red climbing suit
As he jockeyed for a place to stand at the top of the world, his adorned with the emblems of a Chinese mountaineering group perched
Sherpa’s radio came alive. Kari Kobler, the founder of the Swiss just before the drop-off, unwilling to go forward. The woman’s two
mountaineering agency that had organised Grubhofer’s expedition, Sherpa guides were firmly encouraging her to descend the ladder,
was radioing urgently from base camp. Bad weather was moving in but she remained paralysed in apparent fear. For those in the logjam
fast. They had to descend, quickly. behind her, there was no going around. Everybody was stuck, freezing
Grubhofer looked down toward Nepal and could see grey clouds in the storm. Nearly 10km high in the Himalayas, Grubhofer knew,
sweeping across the southern face of the mountain. There was conditions were unforgiving: standing still for long periods in the
something else down there too: a line of a hundred or so climbers in so-called death zone above 9000 metres dramatically increased the
brightly colored suits snaking up the side of the mountain. The crowd risk of frostbite, heart attack, stroke, pulmonary or cerebral oedema
seemed incredible – like a bag of Skittles had been scattered down – and death. Grubhofer knew that Ernst Landgraf, the member of
the slope. On the north side, Grubhofer knew, more climbers were his climbing party whom he had seen on Everest’s summit, had been
tracing his trail up the mountain from Tibet too. exhausted at the top. He could just make out Landgraf – obscured by
He hopped off the summit and crossed two windswept snowfields, snowfall, clouds, fog, and people – a few climbers behind him, but
digging unsteadily into the crust with his crampons. Whenever Grubhofer didn’t know how the 64-year-old was holding up.
Grubhofer encountered somebody ascending the mountain, etiquette “Move it!” shouted a climber behind Grubhofer.
forced him to unclip himself from the rope to step around the climber. Oh, shit, Grubhofer thought, this is getting serious.
Each time he did so, he was aware that a gust of wind or a misstep This Chinese woman, he was sure, had no business being on the
could send him hurtling to an uncertain fate. mountain. Why hadn’t her guides screened her ahead of time? Thirty
Grubhofer had tossed his goggles after they’d frozen in the night minutes crawled by. Forty-five passed. Still she wouldn’t go down
and now was wearing Adidas sports sunglasses, which fogged over the ladder.
constantly, requiring him to remove his down mittens in the cold “For God’s sake,” another climber exclaimed, raising his arms in
to clean the lenses – a tiny reminder of the multitude of dangerous disgust. “Why is she not moving?”
unpleasantries and unforeseen challenges that crop up on Everest.
None of this was new to Grubhofer. A wiry 45-year-old with a FOR MUCH OF THE YEAR, climbing Everest is an impossible idea.
thatch of reddish-blond hair, he’d taken up mountaineering 15 years But each May the roaring jet stream that torments the mountain
earlier at 30. That’s when Grubhofer, depressed following a divorce, subsides just enough to allow alpinists a shot at reaching the top. Should
vowed to restart his life. He set out for the Himalayas and scaled the the weather suddenly turn, the results are often deadly. Jon Krakauer’s
6500-metre Mera Peak in Nepal. “I was not fit enough, but it got me Into Thin Air made famous the May 1996 disaster during which eight
hooked in,” he recalls. Over the following decade, Grubhofer ticked climbers – caught in a blinding whiteout – perished from exposure
off three of the Seven Summits – the highest peaks on each of the or plunged to their death. The book was a tale of the vicissitudes of
seven continents. nature, the hubris of climbers, and the ineffable lure of the mountain,
Everest would be his fourth. He took his first shot in 2015, but the as well as a reminder that, though Everest had been summited by
adventure was cut short. He was dug in with his team at 6500 metres, at hundreds, it remains an incredible and dangerous challenge. It was
what’s known as Advanced Base Camp, when an earthquake hit the region, also a scathing portrait of irresponsible guides catering to wealthy,
setting off an avalanche that killed over a dozen people at the Nepalese base out-of-their-depth dilettantes who were floundering around in what

124 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


had become an increasingly commercialised enterprise. It was greeted Grubhofer joined the caravan, and by mid-afternoon on Wednesday,
as a wake-up call. May 22, he’d ascended to Camp 3, a bleak and windswept slope at
But two decades on, the Everest experience often seems to have 8350 metres. At these heights, the low air pressure means that the
devolved even further into a circus-like pageant of stunts and self- vascular system is receiving far less oxygen than it would at sea level;
promotion. In April 2017, DJ Paul Oakenfold outraged mountaineering most climbers rely on supplemental oxygen. After arriving at camp,
purists by hosting an EDM concert at the base camp in Nepal; this year Grubhofer hunkered down to sleep. At eleven o’clock that night, he
three Indian climbers returned home to celebratory crowds after they pushed off toward the summit along with some 80 climbers from a
supposedly summited on May 26, only to be accused of fraud after other dozen other groups – twice as many as usual, according to one veteran
mountaineers claimed that they never made it past 7150 metres. Everest climber.
And then there are the growing crowds. For this year’s climbing Grubhofer’s aim was to arrive at the summit shortly after dawn on
season, Nepal handed out 381 permits to scale Everest, the most ever. Thursday morning, giving him plenty of time to make the descent
The Chinese government distributed more than 100 permits for the before encountering the bad weather that typically sweeps in during
northern side. According to the Himalayan Database, the number of the afternoon. He carried a bottle of oxygen that would last him
people summiting Everest has just about doubled in the past decade. between six and nine hours; his Sherpa guide carried two spares
And in that time the mountain has become accessible even to relative for Grubhofer as well as one tank for himself. But one hour above
novices, thanks to a proliferation of cut-rate agencies that require little the camp, Grubhofer ran into trouble: the snow cover had melted,
proof of technical skill, experience or physical fitness. “Some of these exposing treacherous patches of bare rock and gravel. “You’re
companies don’t ask any questions,” says Rolfe Oostra, an Australian trying to dig in your crampons, but you’re often sliding back,
mountaineer and a founder of France-based 360 Expeditions, which fighting to keep your balance, expending a lot of energy,” Grubhofer
sent four clients to the summit this year. “They are willing to take says. “And I asked myself, for the first of a thousand times, ‘Should
anybody on, and that compounds the problems for everyone.” I turn around?’”
On May 22 – the day before Grubhofer reached the top – a long After wasting precious time struggling up the rock slope, Grubhofer
line near the summit had already begun to form. One of those pinned reached the first of the three difficult steps just below the summit.
in the throng was a Nepali climber named Nirmal Purja. That At least 10 other climbers lined up ahead of him, waiting to make the

“YOU’RE SLIDING BACK, FIGHTING TO KEEP YOUR BALANCE, EXPENDING A LOT OF ENERGY.
I ASKED MYSELF, FOR THE FIRST OF A THOUSAND TIMES, ‘SHOULD I TURN AROUND?’”

morning, Purja snapped a photo of the chaos. The picture showed ascent. To do so, climbers had to squeeze sideways into a rock crevice
a near unprecedented traffic jam on the popular southern side: a and pull themselves up by a fixed rope. Grubhofer watched several of
column of hundreds of climbers snaking along the knifelike summit them flounder and thought, Oh, Jesus – what are they doing here?
ridge toward the Hillary Step, the last obstacle before the top, packed Two hours later, on the ridge above the second step, he came upon
jacket-to-jacket as if they were queued up for a ski lift in Vail. The two frozen corpses lying beside the path. Judging from their torn and
image rocketed around the world and, as the events on the mountain faded snowsuits and the patches of snow that covered them, Grubhofer
were still developing, raised an urgent question: what the hell is going could tell that they had been on the mountain for years; one was
on atop Mount Everest? missing gloves, and the exposed hands had twisted into claws. “They
seemed to be reaching toward me,” he says. The bodies were among as
IN THE HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINS, calamity frequently takes many as 200 corpses abandoned on Everest, most left behind because
shape off in the distance. Events have a way of cascading. Everest was of the high cost – up to $150,000 – and dangers of recovering them.
clogged with climbers in late May because of – among other things – They’re grim reminders of the mountain’s perils, and they’re likely
a cyclone that had struck weeks earlier, several hundred miles away. to become more noticeable: as climate change thaws the mountain,
Earlier that month, cyclone Fani made landfall in India as a the melting snow and ice are exposing additional corpses each year.
massive Category-4 storm, blasting warm, wet air westward into Grubhofer looked away. “You just move on,” he says. “You refuse to
the Himalayas. For weeks snow and wind buffeted Everest, and the let it affect you.”
climbers and crews who’d come to the mountain hoping for clear, On the north side as well, Kuntal Joisher, an Indian alpinist famed
calm skies dug in to wait. for summiting Himalayan peaks while subsisting on an all-vegan diet,
At base camp, Kari Kobler, who was directing Grubhofer’s was trying hard to maintain a similar stoicism, despite what he was
expedition, was feverishly consulting the forecasts, hoping for a break. seeing. Joisher was attempting his fourth summit of Everest and had
When the skies finally cleared, suddenly the race was on. “We were fallen in behind three Indian teenagers who seemed to have no idea
waiting for good weather at the base camp until May 19,” says Dendi how to negotiate the ascent of the second step. Fearful and slow, they
Sherpa, one of the lead Nepali guides in the Kobler group and one of took over half an hour to cross the step – usually a 10-minute climb for
seven Sherpas hired to help the team. It was apparent to him what was a strong alpinist. “I was thinking,” Joisher recalls, “Man, I’m freezing
going to happen: “We have only a two-day window, and all the people to death, and you guys are causing a traffic jam.” There was nothing to
are going to summit at the same time.” do but wait his turn in the frigid wind. “You are standing at the ledge

GQ.COM.AU 125
of a giant boulder, and it’s just wide enough to hold your boots, with a her light was nearly dead – but rather another man, a badly weakened
sheer drop on one side,” he says. “You are totally exposed.” Indian climber, who flashed for help and then staggered away. (Kaur
Above step three, the scene got worse. Joisher encountered a Sherpa disputes Oostra’s timeline, though she told GQ that she’s not yet ready
guide, sprawled in the snow, separated from his client and utterly to publicly share her story.)
exhausted and delirious. His oxygen bottle was empty, and, says Joisher, In Oostra’s telling, Kaur was practically helpless when he found her
“he had been there a while, and he had no idea what to do.” Joisher’s on the rock. “Can’t move my hands, babe,” she whispered. “They’re
Sherpa searched the man’s bag, found a full bottle, attached it to the frozen.” Oostra strapped her into a sling, clipped it to his harness, and
man’s regulator, and waited for the oxygen to flow. “After 10 minutes he rappelled with her down the buttress. Then he pushed and dragged
was able to form good sentences and was in good spirits, and he said, ‘OK, her back to Camp 3, shouting above the wind to keep her awake.
I’m ready to go up now.’” Joisher made the summit at 5:30 in the morning
on May 23. “It was jam-packed at the top – it was crazy,” he says. FOR THE FIRST-TIMERS on the mountain – the multitude of
He stayed only 10 minutes in the cold and wind before heading back climbers who had never been to Everest – the crowds and the chaos
down – desperate to avoid the crush of 80 or 90 people whom he could might have seemed normal. But the Sherpas knew better. Hundreds of
see approaching from both sides. them were scattered on the high slopes that night, and many of them
understood that the mountain had never seen anything like this.
AMONG THOSE WHO’D also expected to be near the top by Each year, in the months before the climbing season, mountaineering
daybreak on Thursday morning was Chris Dare, a dentist with the agencies identify the most agile and fearless men from high-altitude
Canadian Armed Forces. Like Grubhofer, he had started for the Sherpa villages – and then hand them awesome responsibilities. Sherpas
summit Wednesday night, falling in with a long line of headlamps lay the fixed ropes that guide climbers to the summit, lug the heavy
snaking through the darkness. oxygen bottles that keep their clients alive, and closely monitor their
One of those headlamps belonged to Dare’s buddy Kevin Hynes, a clients’ physical and mental states. The work is risky – in April 2014,
gregarious 56-year-old from Galway, Ireland. But Hynes made it only a 16 Sherpas died in an ice avalanche on the Nepali side of Everest; two
hundred yards out of Camp 3 before he turned around. He wasn’t feeling Sherpas would die this spring in the Nepali Himalayas – yet the money,
up to it and decided the prudent move was to head back. Dare pressed as much as $15,000 per season, provides an escape from the poverty of
on, figuring he’d reach the top by six o’clock in the morning. But long, rural Nepal.
debilitating waits at each step delayed him until just before 9:30. Soon after The men often form an emotional bond with their clients, living
his moment at the summit, of course, the weather began to turn ugly. beside them for weeks, sharing their victories and their setbacks. The

“YOU ARE STANDING AT THE LEDGE OF A GIANT BOULDER, AND IT’S JUST WIDE ENOUGH
TO HOLD YOUR BOOTS, WITH A SHEER DROP ON ONE SIDE. YOU ARE TOTALLY EXPOSED.”

At around 10am, Dare was heading back toward Camp 3 when finest walk a faint line between being helpful and being obedient –
he encountered a member of his team, Kam Kaur, a British yoga between bowing to their clients’ wishes and saying no when those
instructor, still inching toward the summit with her guide. Kaur was wishes seem dangerously misguided.
an experienced mountaineer, but, says Rolfe Oostra, the Australian On Grubhofer’s expedition, one of the lead Sherpas was Dendi
guide leading the group, she wasn’t in top physical condition – and Sherpa, a 37-year-old veteran who had worked for Kobler & Partner
it was dangerously late to be making the summit push. She was since 2008 and had summited Mount Everest six times. Having worked
determined to go forward. his way to a top guide spot on Kobler’s team, Dendi had remained
Covered with ice, short on oxygen, and physically spent, Dare made behind at Camp 3 on the day of the summit push.
it back to Camp 3 at 7pm and collapsed in his tent. He was barely Now Grubhofer – inching his way down, just past the second step
conscious later, when a commotion erupted outside. The Sherpa – was headed in Dendi’s direction when he heard agitated shouts and
whom Dare had seen earlier that day helping Kaur up the mountain cries right behind him. His immediate thought was that his teammate,
had staggered into camp, incoherent and alone. They’d run into Ernst Landgraf, was in trouble. Landgraf was an experienced
trouble, he said. According to Oostra, the Sherpa’s oxygen ran out and summiteer, but he was exhausted at the top. As he and Grubhofer sat
he’d been forced to leave Kaur to seek help. Oostra had been to the top on the summit that morning, congratulating each other, Grubhofer
once before but had abandoned his summit push that morning at the noticed that Landgraf seemed particularly spent.
second step, after a faulty regulator valve had blocked his oxygen flow. A Sherpa on his team had the same impression when he confronted
“Where’s Kam?” he demanded when he saw the Sherpa. Landgraf the night before they set out for the top: “He was weak, but
“She’s up there,” the Sherpa gasped. he said, ‘This is my goal, I have to go to the summit.’ And I thought,
Oostra strapped on his crampons and grabbed an oxygen cylinder Let him do it. It’s quite difficult to tell him, ‘You cannot.’ ”
and a headlamp. As he prepared to climb, he spotted a light high on The Sherpa faced a dilemma confronted by many guides on Everest:
the ridge and flashed his headlamp three times; three flashes returned. how to respond to the determination of an apparently ailing or unfit
Oostra locked onto the point in the darkness where he’d seen the light climber. Only rarely, many experts say, will a Sherpa demonstrate the
and set out up the icy slope. When he found Kaur, she was curled into force of will to override a client’s decision to summit; for new recruits
the foetal position. Her oxygen had run out, and she was drifting in trying to make a mark in a competitive business, getting a client to the
and out of consciousness. It hadn’t been Kaur who’d signaled Oostra – top often becomes the priority.

126 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


A climber rests for a brief moment at the summit of Mount Everest.

Grubhofer listened again for the shrieks. Please don’t let it be Ernst, top. One of them was an old friend of his, Kalpana Das, an Indian
he thought. attorney who had summited Everest in 2008.
But it was. Later, Grubhofer learned that Landgraf had slipped Das had been given a hero’s send-off by thousands of admirers in
while trying to plant his foot on a ladder. Grubhofer was told that her hometown before she set out for Everest in April as part of an all-
because Landgraf had been clipped by his carabiner to the fixed line women’s team of climbers. But Shrestha, having observed her during
when he fell, he banged into the ladder and then dangled limply on the acclimatising runs up the mountain in mid-May, saw that she was off
line. Guides quickly attempted to free him. The wind was blowing, her game. “She was very slow, and she was a decade older this time –
the temperature was dropping, and the climbers behind Landgraf’s 54,” Shrestha says. “I told her at the base camp, ‘Don’t push yourself
suspended body were desperate to get off the mountain. much. I have a sense you cannot do it this year.’”
Later, Kuntal Joisher heard that the waiting climbers were getting Das struggled on the Khumbu Icefall, the first obstacle beyond
agitated. “Cut him off the rope!” some yelled. “We’re getting blocked the base camp. She eventually made it to the summit at around 1pm
– we’ll die.” on Thursday, but she collapsed on the way down. When Shrestha
The rescuers struggled to get Landgraf off the line. After received a mayday call from Das’ Sherpa, Das was unconscious, barely
determining that he was dead, they pushed him aside and left his body breathing. The guide said that he was too exhausted to bring Das
hanging there. The exact cause of his death is unknown, but Kuntal down alone. A four-man rescue team was dispatched, but by the time
Joisher says that at that altitude, with a weakened body under intense they reached her, hours later, Das had perished.
stress, the slightest stumble can be disastrous. “A small slip or fall can Shortly after dawn the previous morning, Donald Cash, a Utah software
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES.

cause your heart rate to shoot up to such a level,” he says, “that you salesman who had quit his job in December to devote himself to high-
will have a massive heart attack.” altitude climbing, had also reached the top. The achievement marked the
completion of Cash’s Seven Summits project, and overjoyed, he performed a
ON THE OTHER SIDE of the mountain, the Nepalese approach little victory jig at the summit. Then, without warning, he sank to his knees
was turning into its own scene of confusion and death on Thursday. and toppled over. Cash’s guide raced to his side and opened wide the valve on
Gyanendra Shrestha, a Nepalese government liaison officer at the his oxygen.
Everest Base Camp, had foreseen the trouble, watching days earlier The rush of air revived Cash, and the Sherpa helped him down to the
as over 200 climbers milled around the tents waiting to set off for the Hillary Step, a 12-metre high rock outcropping at 8,800 metres. A group

GQ.COM.AU 127
of Sherpas had been dispatched to help bring Cash down, but when they one of the biggest mountaineering companies in Nepal, had an even
arrived, it was too late. Cash had collapsed again and never got back up. worse record this year. On May 16, a client of theirs named Séamus
Cash’s body was left on the mountain, as his family wished. Lawless, a 39-year-old computer-science professor at Trinity
Largely unaware of the tragedies unfolding around them, the other College in Dublin, unhooked himself from the safety rope to relieve
teams on the route raced higher up the mountain. Anjali Kulkarni, an himself near Camp 4, according to Seven Summits. A climbing
experienced marathoner and high-altitude climber from Mumbai, and companion speculates that a freak gust of wind blew him off the
her husband, Sharad Kulkarni, summited on the same day as Cash, mountain, and he apparently fell hundreds of feet to his death. His
according to an account in the Times of India. After leaving the summit body was never recovered. That same night, Ravi Thakur, a 27-year-
with her husband, Kulkarni fell ill. Above Camp 4, the paper said, she old Seven Summits client from Haryana, India, died in his tent at the
collapsed and died. A video shows a pair of rescuers, presumably Sherpas, same camp. And in the days that followed, disaster struck three more
attempting to move Kulkarni’s limp body. She lies unresponsive, her times on expeditions led by Seven Summits on nearby Makalu, the
right arm extended, hand still clutching the fixed rope. world’s fifth-highest mountain.
The surviving members of Anjali Kulkarni’s team staggered, When I met with him this summer, Tashi Sherpa, one of the
mourning and half dead, into Camp 4. Nearby, another exhausted founders of Seven Summit Treks – and the youngest person ever
Indian climber from a different expedition, 27-year-old Nihal to reach the top of Everest without using supplemental oxygen –
Bagwan, who according to the Times of India had abandoned a 2014 defended the company’s safety record. Seven Summits had 64
Everest climb 400 metres below the summit, would die of altitude clients on Everest this year, led by 100 Sherpas – and all but two had
sickness just before midnight on the 23rd. returned safely. He conceded that the climbing season had not been
Bagwan had been climbing with a Nepalese agency called Peak good, but he insisted that the company’s practices are sound.
Promotion, which had already lost three other climbers in the Last May’s tragedies involved a wide range of outfitters from all
Himalayas the week before. (The manager of Peak Promotion told over the world – including elite European agencies like Kobler’s. It’s
GQ that the deaths in 2019 represent the first time the agency lost not the case that companies from poorer countries are inherently
clients in its 27-year history. She also said that Peak Promotion more troubled or lax in their safety considerations. Still, Kuntal
has guidelines in place to ensure that Sherpas have extensive Joisher, the Indian climber, told me that the industry had become
mountaineering experience.) Another Nepalese agency, Seven inundated with inexpensive agencies that cater to budget clients
Summit Treks, founded by four Sherpa brothers in 2010 and now – Seven Summits’ Everest trips generally cost $56,000, according

Mountaineers climbing up the Khumbu Icefall on the route up Everest.


to Tashi Sherpa. The cheaper companies often have less to pay for can overwhelm a climber’s heart, brain, or lungs at Everest’s merciless
guides and are said to employ more inexperienced crews. (Seven altitudes. Oostra says the coroner’s report would attribute the death
Summits insists that it rigorously trains its Sherpas and pays them of the vigorous Irishman to “natural causes”.
higher than the market rate.)
These agencies have found a steady clientele among Indian climbers, IN KATHMANDU IN AUGUST, long after the last mountaineers had
who typically have much less money to spend than Europeans and returned home, I found the local climbing community consumed by a
Americans and are dying on Everest at a greater rate than anyone else. debateaboutwhathadgonewrong.Atleastfourclimbersdiedinthe24hours
Four out of the reported 11 who died on Everest this year were Indians; that followed Grubhofer’s moment at the top – casualties of interminable
of the 17 who died on Nepal’s 8000-metre peaks, eight were Indian. lines and tragic miscalculations, victims of one of the deadliest seasons the
“Indians are showing up who have not even climbed a 6000-metre mountain has ever seen. In all, 11 would die on Everest in May. By the
mountain,” Joisher says. “So many got frostbite, four died this year – time I visited, the Nepalese government had proposed a new set of rules
clearly there is something wrong.” requiring, among other things, that prospective climbers provide proof of
high-altitude experience. But sceptics doubted that the government would
GRUBHOFER SPENT the last dreadful hours of May 23 in his own seriously enforce such reforms and risk reducing its millions of dollars in
kind of agony. He’d staggered down the north side at a dreadful pace, permit-generated revenues. “At the end of the day, the changes that Nepal
exhausting his oxygen while waiting for others to move. Within sight talks about never happen,” Rolfe Oostra tells me. “At the end of the day,
of the cluster of domed tents of Camp 3, Grubhofer collapsed. He money talks.”
inched forward on his hands and knees in the gathering darkness, Reinhard Grubhofer shares the assessment that something has to
shredding his jacket on the rocks, begging for tea, water, and oxygen. change. When I meet him in Vienna, it has been three months since
“He was in terrible shape,” recalls Dendi Sherpa, who revived he scaled the mountain and he is still basking in the achievement.
him, replenished his oxygen, and placed him in his tent with “I cannot go anywhere without being the one who has just done
another climber. Everest,” he says with a smile.
Too late to escape from the death zone, Grubhofer slept fitfully for Sure, more people were climbing the mountain than ever before,
hours, with his oxygen mask strapped over his mouth and nose, then sat but reaching the top of the world continues to offer unique bragging
up at around three o’clock in the morning, gasping for air. He felt terrible. rights, he tells me. That will never go away, he thinks. “If I would meet
With effort he removed his gloves, found his headlamp, scrounged you here and tell you I climbed, say, Annapurna, knowledgeable guys

“A SMALL SLIP OR FALL CAN CAUSE YOUR HEART RATE TO SHOOT UP TO SUCH
A LEVEL THAT YOU WILL HAVE A MASSIVE HEART ATTACK.”

around the mess of the tent for his oxygen bottle – and checked the meter. would say, ‘Wow,’ but 99.9 per cent don’t know what you’re talking
The tank was empty. It had been nearly full when he’d crawled into bed. about,” he says. “Mount Everest is such a fascinating mountain, this
He realised he must have accidentally opened the valve all the way. huge monster. It is still one of the biggest adventures on the planet. It
“Fuck,” he said. He tore off the mask of his regulator and retched. is a prestigious place.”
“Dendi,” he croaked as the wind howled outside. “My oxygen.” And yet the disasters that struck on the day he reached the summit cast
Grubhofer again rasped out a plea for help. a shadow. Nirmal Purja’s infamous photo of the traffic jam on the summit
Moments later, Dendi Sherpa began his standard check of his ridge, he admits, has diminished the achievement in some people’s eyes.
clients’ oxygen supplies. Entering Grubhofer’s tent, he saw Grubhofer “I was asked about the photo when I came back,” he tells me. “People said,
motioning desperately for assistance. Dendi looked at the meter, ‘Oh, you’ve also been queuing up there,’ like it was the supermarket.”
saw the needle was on zero, and hurriedly attached a new bottle. New rules have to be implemented, he says, to weed out the incompetent
Grubhofer drew deep breaths through his respirator and settled and the inexperienced, to reduce the crowds, to remove the Disneyland
back in his sleeping bag. Without the new tank, says Dendi Sherpa, illusion and bring Everest back to something approximating its pristine
“Reinhard would have died.” state. Too many people, he says, have died needlessly because of sliding
A few dozen yards from Grubhofer, Chris Dare was thrashing about standards. “Let’s not make it a tourist mountain,” he says. “Let’s not spoil
sleeplessly in his tent that night. All he could think about was getting it even more [and] reduce it to dead people and tourists.”
below the death zone the next morning. He was ready to be done. Of course, Grubhofer also knows that the high stakes are part of the
He was eager to reunite with climbing buddy Kevin Hynes, who had mountain’s attraction. A note of humility creeps into his voice when
turned around before the summit push. With Everest behind them, he acknowledges how close he had come to asphyxiating in his tent –
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES.

the two were looking forward to meeting up at the cabin Hayes had and how a single slip had been enough to end the life of his climbing
built in the Maine woods. partner, Ernst Landgraf.
In the morning, as Dare and the group headed down the mountain, Two days after Landgraf perished, Grubhofer tells me, a small team
a Sherpa received a radio dispatch from Camp 1. from Kobler & Partner returned to the site and gently removed the
“Kevin’s gone,” he told Dare. body, which was still hanging from the line. Grubhofer says they
“What do you mean?” Dare asked, confused. pushed and dragged it away from the trail and then found a niche
Hynes, Dare learned, had died in his tent at dawn. It might have in the rocks where they laid Landgraf’s remains to rest – another
been a coronary or a stroke or any one of the fatal afflictions that haunting reminder of Everest’s fatal allure. n

GQ.COM.AU 129
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GQ.COM.AU 131
Exposure

From top left: Tommy Hilfiger


and Dee Ocleppo Hilfiger;
Lucky Blue Smith; Cameron
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Pecoraro; Yan Yan Chan and
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culminating in a dance party that continued well into the wee hours of Friday morning.
With supermodel guests like Lucky Blue Smith and Gemma Ward in tow, Club Tommy
was the hottest ticket in town.

132 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


The Fountain of Goose brought
out some of Sydney’s finest,
with artist and former Archibald
Packing Room Prize winner
Jamie Preisz, photographer
Jake Terrey and journalist
Melissa Hoyer in attendance
with the GQ team and friends.

Fountain of Goose
V odka connoisseurs Grey Goose brought its Fountain of Goose – which looked exactly
as it sounds – to the Gold Coast, Sydney and Melbourne late last year, in celebration of
a limited-edition bottle designed in collaboration with French fashion label Maison LaBiche.
At the Sydney instalment, which popped up at Circular Quay’s First Fleet Park, botanical-
inspired cocktails were poured while a ballet dancer entertained a crowd of GQ editors and
friends. Never mind the fountain itself wasn’t flowing with actual vodka; there was plenty of
Grey Goose to go around.

GQ.COM.AU 133
by myself. I love my wife. She understands that I have to make music,
I have to make art. The rest of the people around me have known that
that’s been me for as long as they can remember.
OUT “Everything I do has to be experimental in some way, I detest the
OFTHE OUT OF THE
idea of just doing what you know.” Parker is not only anti-what people
expect of him, but harsh on himself. “I think music is the best when
SHADOWS With his most musically ambitious
album yet, Tame Impala’s Kevin Parker
is finally ready to embrace fame
just as long as it’s on his own terms.
Photography James J Robinson Styling Pe ta Chua Words Noelle Faulker SHADOWS it sounds like someone trying something they’re not fully capable of,”
continued from he says, sounding very rock-critic-esque. “I like all of those things in
page 93 music. Jay [Watson, of Pond and Tame Impala’s touring band] was
telling me he read something about rock and roll a while ago that was
There is a drumbeat that sounds like it’s been lifted off a Kelis like, ‘the best rock albums sound like a band that are just at the edge
track and other nods to the familiar. Parker plays with orchestral and of their capability’. I think that’s true about all music and probably
organic-sounding instruments more than ever – acoustic guitars, everything to do with art.”
bare-ish snares, trills and stabs of piano. There are timpani drums If there’s anything he stands to avoid, it’s repeating history. “I would
and pan flutes – if anyone can make plan flutes cool, it’s Parker. That never want to do an album that sounds like I know exactly what I’m
ambition? Well, here it is stamped and grooved in wax. doing. That’s why I never wanted the same album twice because it’s like,
“I know that I’ve got a lot of ideas, genre-wise in there,” he says. ‘I’ve done that’.” I could make Innerspeaker 2.0 in about 24 hours because
“I wanted just to make an album that was dance music-, hip-hop- and I know exactly how to. But I think that would sound really boring.”
R&B-friendly, but still had the instruments that I love to use and a lot It might help pay the bills though. “You know, what? Probably not,
more of them.” actually. People think they would listen to me doing the same thing
With The Slow Rush, he says, he aimed to create something divergent. twice, but I think they are mistaken.”
“I used a lot of synths and drum machines and synthetic stuff on Currents, With his collaborations, Currents and the incoming pop-leaning
but for this one, I wanted it to have a lot of real-sounding instruments, but The Slow Rush, Parker is a far cry from his stoner, dive-bar roots.
still sound like Tame Impala.” What is most interesting, is the confessed Does that affect his vision of Tame Impala? “Every decision
perfectionist’s priority among the flirting with genres and jumble of you have to take for itself and not to allow commonly-believed
instruments: it needed to sound like someone deep in the studio. connotations to drag you down,” he says. “I’m just not one of those
From the outside, it seems like the aloneness of Parker as an artist people. When we got offered a record deal, I remember saying,
permeates everything – his processes, his visions, his concepts. It’s even ‘Holy shit. Modular Records!’” he says, “and the first person I told,
in The Slow Rush album art, a photograph by Neil Krug of the dune-filled a friend, said ‘Oh, don’t sign to them. They’re electro.’ From the
rooms of Kolmanskop, an ex-diamond mine ghost-town in Namibia. very first day I said something, my friends turned their noses up.
Having grown up with a somewhat rickety childhood (his parents [Modular] were interested in my music, they were genuine, they
divorced when he was four), Parker found solace in solitude, using music didn’t ask me to change in any way. They believed in me. So I just
as a way of expression and grounding in its infinite possibilities. try to take every turn as its own thing and not think about what it
His surroundings still play an integral part in his process and his means culturally.”
love affair with Australia has never waned. “I just love being near the The mental load of producer, performer, writer, collaborator,
ocean,” he says. “Coming from Perth and being able to go down south husband, friend, press junket talking head and GQ cover star can’t
whenever I want, it’s a luxury I’ve grown up because we have such a be light. “It’s difficult. Well, can be difficult,” Parker sighs, half-
beautiful landscape. It’s a beautiful part of the world to get lost in.” joking that he often does that ‘Australian thing’ and just doesn’t
Tame Impala encapsulates a dichotomy of modern loneliness, with talk about it. “I assume that everything I’ve done is unlistenable
mixes for headphones and melodies all but tailor-made for party every time I’ve released it. I’ve promised myself I’m going to enjoy
playlists. But Parker is, creatively, still an island. it this time – the rollout and people hearing the songs for the first
“It’s been a while since I’ve made an album so I’d forgotten just what time. I’m going to get excited and not freak out as I have with every
it took to actually finish, especially on your own and not having a team other album.”
of people around you to help carry the load and responsibility,” he We all know the breakthrough cliché, the pressure felt by an artist
says. Isolation has its perks, but can become a battle against himself. trying to get another bite of the relevance cherry. I ask Parker, having
“At the start, it’s simple. It’s just me and my recording equipment in experienced that three times over, if it gets any easier when you achieve
my studio or an Airbnb or wherever I am,” he explains. “By the end, it confetti cannon-level success? “No. No, it doesn’t,” he sighs. “In fact,
becomes infinitely complicated because there are just so many factors it gets worse. A lot of people consider my last album [Currents] to be
that I have to think about at once.” the best... Above all else, I too considered my last album the best one
Granted, Parker’s process hasn’t changed much from fiddling I’ve ever done. Until I made this one.”
around with a guitar in his bedroom as a kid. These days he just has a He pauses. “So the pressure I was putting on myself to make
fancier bedroom and a much fancier desk. “Music has to be a raw and another album that becomes my best one yet was greater than ever.”
almost childlike thing,” he explains. “When you’re making music, you He concedes, “You just have to turn that pressure into positive
have to feel like there’s no responsibility, there are no expectations energy and just try to ride the wave, rather than get dumped by it.
for you to be sensible. For that reason, you have to tap into your most You know? Just hold on for dear life.” Parker takes a long pause.
childish, heady, emotional frames of mind.” “Which is funny, because all of the waves at the beaches I go to in
As he gets older, does he worry that old habits of retreating into self- Perth are dumpers anyway.” n
imposed solitude might impact his relationships? “That’s why I do it The Slow Rush is out February 14 and Tame Impala will be touring in 2020.

134 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020


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136 JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2020 GQ.COM.AU

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