THE COMPLETE GUIDE 2016

VIETNAM
Contents
3 INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER 1
4 MONEY & COSTS
5 ROUGH DAILY BUDGET
6 FOOD COSTS
7 ALCOHOL COSTS
7 ACCOMMODATION COSTS
8 ACTIVITY COSTS
CHAPTER 2
9 VISAS
CHAPTER 3
11 TRANSPORT
VIETNAM MAP
CHAPTER 4
15 HANOI
19 SAPA & TA VAN
22 CAT BA & HA LONG BAY
25 TAM COC VILLAGE
28 PHONG NHA CAVES & DONG HOI
31 HUE & THE IMPERIAL TOMBS
35 HOI AN & DA NANG
40 DA LAT
44 CAT TIEN NATIONAL PARK
47 HO CHI MINH CITY
CHAPTER 5
51 HEALTH
CHAPTER 6
52 WEATHER
Intro
We visited Vietnam for 3 months and
even ended up living halfway along its
coast in the beautiful town of Hoi An for
over a month.
During our stay we experienced and
learnt so much about this South East
Asian country that we compiled this
ultimate guide with all our knowledge in
one place.
Before visiting we will both openly admit
that we knew very little about the
country beyond scraps of information
gleaned from various Vietnam War films.
Unfortunately this famous conflict of the
60’s and 70’s still dominates in any
google search you make but there’s so
much more to explore here history wise.
The Vietnam of today is a busy, noisy one,
racing to catch up with the progress of
China to the north and Thailand to the
west.
While it can be confusing and annoying
at times, you’ll soon discover a county
with a rich and painful past looking
towards a bright and hopeful future.

About us We share our knowledge and experience

We're Charlie and Kristina and we love to
travel so much we started MapTrotting to
inspire others to travel more.
After exploring our own 'back yard' of
Great Britain for many years, we're now
location independent, blogging our way
around the world.
MapTrotting is about exploring the world
slowly and finding value in travel.
with our readers so they can learn from
our highs and lows.
We aim to inspire people to travel and
experience more of the world through
our blog.
We also want to show you that travel
doesn’t have to be frightening, stressful or
expensive. People around the world are
just as friendly and wonderful as you are,
so let’s go meet them…
More than anything, we hope you will
find this guide useful. Drop as a line if
there's anything unclear and we will get
back to you as soon as we can.
Don't forget to stay in touch on Twitter,
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above).

DISCLAIMER: Throughout this book you'll find links to services that we recommend. We may get a small
commission if you use these services via the links but there's never any additional cost to you. It may even give
you a discount so it's win-win!
Be assured that the attractions, restaurants and accommodation mentioned within this guide we have visited
personally. We'll always provide our honest opinion, good or bad.
If you'd like to see more gear, tech, apps and websites we use on the road and highly recommend, check out
our travel resources page page.

Chapter 1
Money & Costs
The currency of Vietnam is the Vietnamese Dong. This is one country where you could
quite quickly become a millionaire and you’ll have to learn to shop in thousands of
Dong at a time. Current exchange rates:
$1 USD = 22,300 VND £1 GBP = 29,200 VND
ATMs and Currency Exchange
Are readily available in major cities and
towns but can be hard to come by in
smaller places.
If you’re planning to spend a few days in
more remote areas of villages then stock
up on cash before heading off.
We did struggle with the withdrawal limit
from most ATMs in Vietnam which is set
at 2,000,000 VND per transaction, that’s
around $90 USD.
Many hotels will accept only cash so this
can soon disappear. If you can seek out
an MB Bank ATM which mostly allows
you to withdraw 5,000,000 VND each
time.
In the bigger towns and cities you’ll find
places to exchange your money. Most
banks will offer this service but don’t
forget to use a handy app like the XE
Currency Exchange app to check you’re
getting a decent rate on the go.
Cash and Card Payments
Many places will only accept cash and
although card payments are becoming
more commonplace, it’s only in the main
towns and cities that you’ll be able to pay
with a credit or debit card.
PAGE 4 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
€ 1 EUR = 24,700 VND
This even applied at several hotels where
we stayed so you can soon use up your
cash reserves.
For most daily transactions cash is the way
to go. Just remember to break up the
bigger notes at stores or your
accommodation as most stalls and small
shops will struggle to provide much
change.
One benefit of the currency in Vietnam is
the lack of annoying coins, there are
several in circulation but thankfully no one
likes using them and sticks to the notes
instead.
MONEY SAVING
TRAVEL TIP:
Make sure that you have a
great Travel Credit Card to
avoid a poor exchange rate
and extra fees when using
ATMs in Vietnam.
Check out our guide to choosing the right
travel credit card to help avoid those evil
fees and charges!
Rough Daily
Budget for Vietnam
Backpacker. As with many countries in
South East Asia, Vietnam is the perfect
backpacker destination with lots of super
budget accommodation, food and travel
options.
If you stay in dorm rooms, eat street food
and take local transport you’ll
comfortably get by on around 400,000
VND ($18) per person.
Mid-range. Staying in private rooms with
aircon, eating in a mix of restaurants to
street foods and taking the occasional
taxi? Then you should budget around $67
per couple per day.
You might increase this slightly
depending on how many activities and
tours you book.
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We had a daily budget of around $50
USD for both of us which evened out over
the 3 months creating a comfortable
travelling experience for the most part.
We saved on accommodation by renting
an apartment for 1 month in Hoi An.
High end. Staying in top end hotels,
eating at fine restaurants and taking
many private tours you could spend
upwards of $158 for a couple per day.
There are plenty of resorts and
restaurants, particularly on the coast,
catering to the high end market and the
emerging middle class from
neighbouring countries.
Food Costs
Backpacker. For the ultimate backpacker
budget fare explore the numerous
sprawling fresh markets and stick with
street food.
You can grab a bowl of the famous Pho,
Vietnamese noodle soup, for as little
as $0.50 at local food joints.
This is a big deal at breakfast time so
don’t get there too late or they will have
sold out. You can opt for chicken, beef,
pork or just a veggie version. Red meat
will usually be the most expensive option
so cut down on that for the ultimate
money saver.
At most street food stalls you’ll be pretty
hard pressed to go beyond spending $2
per dish. For example in central Hoi An,
one of the most touristy spots in Vietnam,
we paid $0.90 USD for a delicious bowl of
Cao Lau (noodles, pork and greens) and a
tasty fresh mango smoothie cost an
extra $0.45 USD.
We really recommend pulling up one of
the tiny plastic chairs (seriously, the
Vietnamese have tiny bottoms!). and
joining the locals for a bowl or something
warm and comforting. It’s a great way to
immerse yourself in to local life.
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Eating at a restaurant will add a few extra
Dong to the bill for the exact same dish
but some aircon can be very
welcoming at times. You’ll find no
shortage of places to eat that are
effectively someones front room
converted into a restaurant opening onto
the street.
This is a great chance to effectively
sample some home cooking but can be
very hit and miss as it seems anyone can
open one regardless of their culinary skill
level.
In the mid-range, local restaurant dishes
can range from around $2+USD upwards
depending on the location and western
style dishes usually start upwards of
$3.50+ USD each.
At the high end of things there are many
brand new and exciting contemporary
restaurants springing up all over the
country to cater for the increased wealth
and investment that Vietnam is
experiencing.
In Hanoi, Saigon or Danang it’s not
difficult to find food from around the
world on offer from $9+ USD and up per
dish.
Alcohol Costs
If you fancy a tipple, Vietnam is the
ultimate destination for cheap beer with
a Bia hơi (meaning gas beer) on many
street corners. The beer at these local
hangouts is brewed daily and drunk after
being matured for a very short period so
is very refreshing with a crisp taste.
It’s typically less than 3% alcohol and
costs between $0.13 to $0.30 USD per
glass.
I’m not sure we’ve encountered cheaper
beer anywhere yet and it’s easier to drink
than Lao-Lao.
Accommodation
Costs
Backpacker. Vietnam provides plenty of
cheap accommodation for budget
backpackers right across the country with
the most choice being in the big cities
and towns.
Dorm beds can start from as low as $5
USD in a large shared dorm in the coast
towns and cities. Expect to pay from $7
USD in Hanoi and Saigon.
For couples travelling in Vietnam a
private double room in a hostel or low
end hotel will start from around $9
USD with a fan and $11 USD with aircon.
At this price it’s likely to have a shared
bathroom too.
Mid range. In the mid range of
accommodation you’ll find plenty of
decent, clean accommodation with both
hostels and hotels in most of the visitor
friendly spots.
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Local bottled and draft beers, such as Bia
Hanoi and 333, costs around $0.70 to
$1.40 USD.
Imported beers will costs at least double
that so try a local Bia Hoi spot where
possible.
At the higher end of the scale we
splurged on 1 beer and 1 cocktail at a
rooftop bar in Hanoi and it costs us $17
USD including a great view across the
city.
Expect to pay from around $16 USD for a
double room with a private bathroom
and aircon in most places.
High end. At the high end there are
plenty of hotels and resorts to choose
from in most of the highly visited
locations.
Be aware that some hotels in Vietnam
cater very much to the local market and
may not have any English speaking staff.
Remember that what is classed as ‘luxury’
in Vietnam may not be the same as
western standards. Smoking is still
allowed in many hotel rooms and we
encountered a few that had an
unpleasant odor hanging around even
after being cleaned. Be sure you ask to
see the room before checking in.
Activity Costs
As with other countries in Southeast Asia many temples and religious sites are free to visit
with a donation box available.
Phong Na Caves – prices vary depending
on the cave visited. The Paradise Cave we
visited cost $11 per person to enter but
was one of the most stunning things we
saw in Vietnam.
Hue Imperial City and Tombs – The
highest cost to enter any of the tomb
sites is $4.50 per person and visiting the
Purple City complex cost $6.70 per
person.
Halong Bay Boat Tours – start from
around the $100 mark for an overnight
cruise with the prices gradually
increasing with the number of nights and
things included.
PAGE 8 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
Hoi An Old Town – an entrance ticket to
the Old Town of Hoi An includes several
museums too and costs $5, it can be used
for the duration of your stay to enter and
exit the area.
Sapa trekking experience – treks into the
valleys of northern Vietnam can range
from a simple 1 day affair to an epic 4 day
hike including homestay
accommodation.
The price depends of the number of
people trekking and the amount of
nights and days but start from around
$30 USD per person for an experienced
guide.
 PAGE 9 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE

Chapter 2
Visas
As with many countries, the visa requirements and situation for entry into Vietnam is
constantly changing. The information below is correct to the best
of our knowledge as of September 2016. We always advise checking embassy or your
country's government travel websites for up to date info.

People travelling on a passport from the below 23 countries can enter Vietnam
without a visa for the duration stated in brackets. However this only applies if arriving
at one of the 3 international airports in HCMC (Saigon), Hanoi or Dalat.

Note: There is no visa on arrival at land border crossings!

If you’re not from one of these countries
or you want to stay longer, you will need a
visa to enter Vietnam. There are 2 ways to
get one:
1. Our preferred option is to obtain a visa
in advance from a Vietnamese Embassy.
This is the most cost effective and secure
way to get your visa but it may take
several days or even weeks to process so
make sure you plan ahead.
You will need to use this method if you
plan to cross at a land border into
Vietnam as they can’t process a visa on
arrival and you’ll be refused entry.
The costs vary depending on your
passport and the embassy you’re
applying at so check directly with them
first.
 PAGE 10 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE

2. Obtain a visa on arrival at one of the 3
international airports in HCMC (Saigon),
Hanoi or Dalat but to do this you will
need a ‘letter of approval’ first.
This is the route we took due to time
restrictions and it does avoid embassy
visits but is likely to cost more.
Approval letters are available from
agencies in person or online, however
there are many reports of bogus agencies
that are happy to steal your money in
return for a fake letter.
We used vietnamvisacenter.org online
and had no issues.

As an example we paid $45 per approval
letter for a 3 month visa on the 1 day
service. Then when you arrive at the
airport in Vietnam head over to the
‘landing visa counter’ to obtain your visa.
This cost us another $25 each for the
‘stamping fee’, it was a very nice stamp
though.
So you can see that it was $70 each for a
3 month tourist visa but would certainly
have cost less if we had taken option 1 at
an embassy.
Plus you can’t yet use this method if
travelling via a land border.

Visa extension
Officially it’s not currently possible to extend a tourist visa once you are inside Vietnam.
However during our 1 month plus stay in Hoi An we learnt of a few local agents that
could possibly extend tourist visas.
As it transpired there were local elections taking place so extensions were not possible
but that was set to change a few weeks later. Once you are in Vietnam ask around and
it may be possible to extend your visa and if not there’s always the joy of a border run!

Chapter 3
Transport
Getting to Vietnam
Air. Vietnam has 3 international airports in
Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), and Da
Nang.
Most of the direct international flights to
Vietnam from Europe, the Americas and
the Middle East are operated by Vietnam
Airways.
Boat. The only regular service operates
from the Cambodian capital Phnom
Penh to Chau Doc in the Mekong Delta.
From there it’s around a 6 hour bus ride
to Saigon so of more use if you’re
exploring the Mekong Delta area first.
Rail. It is possible to travel from China to
Hanoi via train in a sleeper train or a more
frequent service if you change trains at
the border.
PAGE 11 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
As yet Cambodia and Laos have no
connecting rail lines with Vietnam.
Bus. Busses operate from many of the
major towns and cities across the border
in Laos, Cambodia and China.
Costs vary greatly depending on
departure point so check with agents or
your accommodation in the place you are
travelling from.
Busses (coaches) can sometime be a
good way to cross land borders into
Vietnam smoothly as the assistant on the
bus will make sure you have the correct
paperwork and deal with the guards for
you. This reduces the risk of getting
ripped off with mystery fees.

Getting around Vietnam
The 1650 km long ‘S’ shaped curve of Vietnam makes it very easy to navigate, with most
visitors either travelling north to south or vice versa. Add to this the fact that the 2 main
cities are at polar opposites of the country, which is 50 km wide at its narrowest point,
and you begin to see the well trodden path many take.
Air. Flying is a great way to cover larger
distances between the major cities in
Vietnam.
Vietnam Airlines, VietJet and JetStar
Pacific are the main domestic carriers to
check first. We found it’s better to book
directly with the airline for domestic
flights to avoid any additional fees.
Domestic flights depart from Hanoi, Ho
Chi Minh City, Da Nang, Hai Phong, Can
Tho, Hue, Nha Trang, Da Lat and Phu
Quoc.
We used Vietnam Airlines to fly from
Danang to Dalat at the last minute for
$58 USD per person.
This could be even lower if we had
booked in advance. It was around twice
the cost of taking the train and
connecting bus but saved us over 16
hours of travel time and a loss of sleep.
Boat. Most boat travel you encounter will
be more for tourism purposes than to get
anywhere fast. For example there are
boat trips along the Perfume River in Hue
to see the Imperial Tombs of the former
emperors of Vietnam.
The most popular boat trip is around the
Ha Long Bay area in the north of Vietnam.
Here you can take a short boat trip for
stay onboard for several days with food
and drink provided.
Do your research beforehand as there are
many reports of poor value cruises or
deceptive booking agents.
PAGE 12 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
We opted instead to take the public ferry
to Cat Ba Island from the mainland and
our tickets cost $3.15 USD each for a one
way trip.
Rail. Vietnam has a decent rail network
which stretches the full length of the
country.
Originally built by the French it has
recently started to receive some much
needed investment and improvements.
We found it to be the most relaxing and
straightforward way to get between the
main towns and cities in Vietnam.
We took both daytime trains using 2nd
class seats and a couple of different
sleeper trains. All were comfortable and
the scenery between Hue and Danang
was particularly stunning where the
tracks hug the rugged coastline.
To check prices and information visit the
excellent Seat61.com rail travel website to
find out all you need to know. Then book
your tickets online or at a station.
Bus. Busses are the cheapest way to travel
in Vietnam and connect up pretty much
anywhere you’ll want to go.
There are bigger coach style ‘sleeper
busses‘ which run between the major
towns and cities.
We found these a bit hit and miss and it
is always best to go for the tourist version
of these where possible for a bit more
comfort.

Sleeper buses are built to accommodate
the locals and we both struggled at times
with the tiny reclined seats and lack of
legroom under the seat in front of you.
You travel laying down which was a new
experience for us and it can feel a bit
claustrophobic at first but you soon get
used to it and might even manage some
sleep.
On some routes there are busses with
regular seats available so check before
you book and then double check again. If
the person selling the ticket says ‘same
same’, always beware!
On local bus routes the cheapest option
will be a mini van or smaller bus. We only
took one of these but will never forget it
I’m sure.
PAGE 13 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
They overfill the bus with way too many
people and packages all squashed in and
then proceed to drive as fast as possible
between the frequent stops.
On the plus side it’s the cheapest way to
travel and you’ll usually get picked up
and dropped off where you need to be,
thus avoiding bus stations miles out of
town.
If you don’t want to be packed in like a
sardine for hours then there are always
VIP or tourist mini vans available between
many popular destinations too.
Use the friendly Vietnam travel website
baolau.vn to check times and prices for
the major bus companies.
Vietnam Map
Ta Van Village
Sapa Hanoi
Cat Ba
Tam Coc Island
Ha Long Bay

Phong Nha Dong Hoi

Hue Da Nang
Hoi An

Cat Tien Dalat

Saigon
(HCMC)

Chapter 4
Destinations
HANOI
The buzzing capital of Vietnam, the city
of Hanoi has a wealth of history, food and
fantastic coffee to make it worth staying
for at least a few days if not more.
With the background music of a
thousand motorbike horns, don’t miss the
magical Old Quarter area just north of the
beautiful Hoan Kiem Lake.
Take a stroll around its streets and admire
hidden temples and shrines amongst the
PAGE 15 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
colonial style buildings and shop houses.
Here you’ll find some of the best coffee in
Hanoi at the local cafes tucked away
down numerous narrow passageways. Do
try the legendary Ca Phe Trung.
Also be sure to pay a visit to the ancient
Imperial Citadel, War Museum and Ho
Chi Minh Mausoleum in the direction of
the Ho Tay (West Lake) area to the north
of the centre.

Getting to Hanoi
By Air. Hanoi is easy to reach via Noi Bai
International Airport. Flights from both
domestic and international airlines make
it a popular starting point from which to
explore Vietnam.
A taxi to the centre of the city from the
airport costs around $20. There’s also a
new public bus service which costs $1.40
per person and takes around 1 hour.
By Train. You can reach Hanoi from China
to the north on a regular service running
to and from the border. Trains also head
Northwest for Sapa and South via the
mainline all the way down to Saigon
(HCMC) over 3 days.
By Bus. There’s no one central bus
terminal in Hanoi and most companies
will stop at their offices so check where
you’ll stop before you arrive. Buses do run
between Hanoi and destinations in Laos
but be cautious of scams on these border
bound routes.
We used the reliable baolau.vn site to
book most of our bus and train travel in
Vietnam. You don't even need to print
your tickets, just show them on your
smartphone.
Taxis in Hanoi are fairly speedy and
economical if going via the meter for
short distances. Try and travel outside of
the gridlocked rush hours when the
motorcycles rule the streets.
Be sure to visit a Bia Hơi (literally "air
beer") which you'll find on nearly every
corner in Hanoi. The beer is brewed fresh
and only keeps for a day or two so has a
unique crisp flavour.
Best of all, it costs just a few cents per
glass. Cheers!
PAGE 16 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
Where to stay in Hanoi
Hanoi has accommodation to suit all
budgets and tastes from funky hostels to
high end hotels.
Many of the budget hotels and hostels
are found in the Hanoi Old Quarter. It's a
great location but can be very hectic and
constantly noisey.
We opted instead to stay in an apartment
just out of the busy center in a more local
neighbourhood.
Found on AirBnB (click the link for a FREE
$20 credit), it was quite close to the
central train station, with great cafes and
Pho (noodle) spots nearby.
Where to eat in Hanoi
As with any big city it's difficult to
recommend a particular restaurant.
Instead, seek out the excellent street
food, you'll find plenty on offer around the
Old Quarter.
We enjoyed many fresh bowls of Pho Ga
(chicken noodle soup) and Pho Bo (beef
noodle soup).
You can even book onto a food tour with
a local to explore the area, a great way to
get to grips with the different dishes. See
www.hanoistreetfoodtour.com for times
and prices.

What to see in Hanoi
The Old Quarter of Hanoi
Complete with the French colonial
architecture, street food, temples and
pagodas it is the heart and soul of
Vietnam’s capital.
Here amongst the busy narrow streets
packed full of motorcycles you'll find
some unique spots for coffee (see the
next page).
The French Quarter of Hanoi
To escape the clutter of Hanoi, head to
the majestic French Quarter, southeast of
Hoan Kiem Lake, sprinkled with
restaurants, shops and luxury hotels.
Hoan Kiem Lake
The city’s jewel and tourist attraction
surely is the beautiful Hoan Kiem Lake. A
beautiful place to walk around at any
time of day, or night.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
It’s not every day you get to see a
mausoleum of one of the world’s well
known political figures.
If you have a chance, do pop in. Just don’t
forget to dress modestly.
The Hidden Imperial Citadel
Even if you are not a history buff, you
should still visit the Imperial Citadel in
central Hanoi.
It’s a fascinating historic site that has just
recently opened to the general public,
complete with beautiful architecture,
secret bunkers and peaceful
surroundings.
Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in
2010, just in time for Hanoi’s millennial
anniversary, the Imperial Citadel is a fine
example of the old Hanoi.
PAGE 17 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
A network of bunkers was dug
underneath the Citadel during the
American (Vietnam) War.
The D67 bunker was the main spot where
the commanders made key decisions
about the conduct of their troops in the
War.
It was constructed in the northern part of
palace foundations. It looks like an
ordinary house from the outside, but it’s
the inside of the building that is the most
fascinating.
The Vietnamese government has
recognised the building and the bunker
as part of Vietnam’s Outstanding
Revolutionary Heritage.
Hanoi Opera House
Modeled on the Palais Garnier, the older
of Paris's two opera houses, this
architectural landmark stages
Vietnamese composers as well
as the world renowned ballet Swan Lake.
The Temple of Literature
Dedicated to Confucius (Khong Tu), a
great example of Vietnamese preserved
architecture where you will find a pond
known as the 'Well of Heavenly Clarity.'
Dong Xuan Market
If you are in Hanoi for shopping, pop into
the largest market in the city. Built by the
French in 1889, Dong Xuan Market
sells everything you could possibly need.
Rooftop Bar
To our surprise, it wasn’t shockingly
expensive as we thought it might be. A
total of $17 USD for a beer, cocktail and
fantastic panoramic views across Hanoi
(83 Lý Thường Kiệt, Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn
Kiếm, Hà Nội),

Coffee culture in Hanoi
Coffee culture in Hanoi is massive. As
soon as you start exploring the capital
city, you notice how much the
Vietnamese enjoy drinking coffee, mostly
over ice, all day long, without guilt.
They sit on colourful tiny stools chatting
away to their friends, work colleagues or
just browsing social networks on their
smart phones. The whole scene is
priceless and picture – perfect.
Hanoi might seem like a busy place, but
once you squat down on one of those tiny
stools you suddenly see and definitely feel
the chilled coffee vibe across the city.
Cafe Lam, one of the oldest cafes in the
capital. For the ultimate experience sit
outside on the little stool and enjoy coffee
with the locals. (60 Nguyễn Hữu Huân,
Hàng Bạc, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam).
Cafe Giang, another charming place
forever buzzing with coffee addicts. Walk
through a very narrow alleyway and step
into the ‘egg coffee lane’.
PAGE 18 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
Since they are the inventors of Ca Phe
Trung - the egg coffee, you should
absolutely try it here.
It’s sweet and incredibly rich due to egg
yolk whipped together with condensed
milk. It’s a winning combination!
You should not leave Hanoi without
trying this heavenly treat, you may not
find it anywhere else (39 Nguyễn Hữu
Huân, Lý Thái Tổ, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội,
Vietnam).
For the beautiful views of the Hoan Kiem
Lake, head to Cafe Pho Co. It is quite
tricky to find this place as it’s hidden at
the back of a shop filled with silk produce
and touristy t-shirts (11 Hàng Gai, Hàng
Trống, Hà Nội, Vietnam).
In the Old Quarter, next to St Joseph
Cathedral, you’ll find Cafe Indigenous. It’s
so tiny it’s really easy to miss it. We surely
did! You’ll get a seat if you are lucky as it
only has a few tables (36 Ấu Triệu, Hàng
Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam).

SAPA &
TA VAN
Tucked into the far north west corner of
Vietnam, close to the border with China,
you’ll find the picturesque alpine style
town of Sapa.
Set in a stunning mountainous region,
the town sits at around 1500 m above sea
level with great viewpoints all around.
Most visitor come here to trek amongst
the rice terraces and along the winding
PAGE 19 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
valleys away from Sapa.
It’s a unique experience in Vietnam as
this area is still home to many hill tribes
and the ladies from the local villages can
act as your personal trekking guides.
This can often include a homestay at one
of the nearby mountain villages such as
Ta Van.

SAPA
Booking a sleeper train: Hanoi - Sapa
You can book train tickets in person at
Hanoi's main station, Ga Ha Noi.
The main building is located on Le Duan
Street and this is known as station A but
there’s also a confusing station B around
the corner on Tran Quy Cap.
You’ll need to use Station A which is easy
to spot with it’s imposing part Soviet style
frontage.
You enter through the main door and
turn left for advance ticket booking.
There’s a special desk for tourists to buy
tickets and the staff were very helpful and
booked us onto the train we wanted.
TOP TIP: use the local travel website
baolau.vn to check availability, times,
classes and prices first.
That way you’ll know you are getting the
correct train and price as they might try
and sell you a more expensive ‘tourist’
carriage ticket at the station.
Getting to Sapa
It's a 2 part journey as the train line runs
up to the north west border town of Lao
Cai and from there you take a bus or taxi
to Sapa town.
We took the Violette Trains SP3 service
which left Hanoi at 10pm and arrived at
Lao Cai at 6.20am the next morning.
There are various kinds of Sleeper
Carriages available starting from $17 USD
per person for a basic bed in a 4 person
carriage (our choice), up to $160 USD per
person for a 2 bed deluxe carriage. We
hope that includes breakfast and a
massage!
Unless you book a tour package your train
tickets won’t include the final 1 hour road
journey to Sapa but it’s easy to grab the
local bus from the train station in Lao Cai.
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Be aware that the local touts for taxis and
busses will get onto the train once it
stops and ask if you need to get to Sapa.
As you exit the station in Lao Cai turn left
and look for the local mini bus parked up
in the corner of the parking area. It clearly
says Lao Cai ⇔ Sapa on the front and side
despite what the local taxi touts tell you.
It departs every hour on the hour and
costs just $1.25 USD per person. Just
make sure you wedge yourself in and sit
on your bags otherwise the locals will!
What to see in Sapa and around
Thach Son Street
If you want to stay away from the touristy
bit, head to the Thach Son street. There
are a few places to eat on the street as
well as a huge bakery.
The gothic Holy Rosary Church is worth a
stop. Peek in to see lovely stained glass
windows and modern interior.
If you love hiking and mountain climbing,
visit the magnificent Fansipan Mountain.
We advise visiting the mountain with a
guide and taking all safety precautions for
climbing activities.
Furthermore, dont miss the beautiful
Thac Bac Waterfall aka Silver Falls.
TA VAN VILLAGE
Getting to Ta Van
The village is only 10 km away from Sapa
and the best option you have is getting a
taxi. A taxi ride from Sapa shouldn’t cost
you more than $9 USD.
Choosing your homestay
Your best chance of choosing a Homestay
in Ta Van Village is Trip Advisor or Google
search. It all depends on what level of
(dis)comfort you are ready to experience.

You will have different experiences
staying in local homes depending on the
time of year you travel. We visited the
mountains in March and it was pretty
cold.
What to expect from a Homestay
Depending on what kind of
accommodation you book, expect
something very basic. For examples,
a mattress on the floor, thin bamboo
walls, cold or a broken shower and if you
are really lucky, an electric blanket.
We stayed at Luckydaisy’s Bamboo
Homestay. It's pricey, $40 per night for
both of us, but includes breakfast and
dinner.
You will be provided with an electric
blanket and the luxury of a fireplace in
the communal area. All of which helps
staying warm in colder months.
The location of the homestay is beautiful,
with the views to the rice fields.
It’s also surrounded by the huts of the
PAGE 21 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
locals which made our stay even more
authentic.
The Luckydaisy’s homestay is surely
considered ‘luxury’ by the locals. A bunch
of local women were always hanging
around showcasing their crafts in hope of
the ‘luxury travellers’ purchasing a scarf or
a wristband from them.
Trekking in the rice fields
You can book a trek through your
homestay or, if you are brave enough, trek
independently. We did a loop on our own,
but would recommend booking a local
guide. Most of the guides speak good
English and know the area inside out.
During the trek (in warmer and dryer
months) you will see some stunning
sights of rice terraces and valleys.
When visiting Ta Van village, try visiting
the gorgeous Muong Hoa Valley.
To book your trek and/or homestay also
check trekkingsapa.com
CAT BA &
HA LONG
BAY
Around 170 km west of Hanoi is the
stunning Ha Long Bay area, home to
around 2000 imposing limestone islets
towering out of the turquoise water.
Ha Long Bay or ‘Descending Dragon Bay’
in the Gulf of Tonkin is often considered
the most beautiful bay in the world and is
unsurprisingly listed as a UNESCO
World Heritage Site.
You can take a day trip from Hanoi, spend
a longer stay on a boat in the bay or
venture over to the lush Cat Ba Island just
PAGE 22 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
across the bay.
Why not take the ferry to Cat Ba Island
and stay for a day or two to explore the
Hospital Cave, gun fort and nature reserve
by motorbike.
A fair bit of the island is still very natural
and pretty rugged in places. However a
lot of excavating work is taking place
further away from the main town.
The island is changing and the progress is
quite fast.

HA LONG BAY
The journey is literally jaw dropping as
the ferry navigates through thousands of
limestone isles (1,960–2,000 to be precise)
in all shapes and sizes, which have
evolved over 20 million years.
Even the heavy fog is incapable of
diminish the spectacular scenery of the
Gulf of Tonkin.
Floating villages in Ha Long Bay
For many years floating fishing villages
have existed in the emerald Ha Long Bay,
fishing being the prime source of income
for the villagers. It’s great to see that
something as unique remains till this day.
You can reach the villages by kayak and
maybe buy some fresh fish and other
seafood that the locals might have on
offer.
Some cruises will stop at the fishing
villages where you can enjoy fresh
seafood prepared by the locals or enjoy
other activities in the local area.
Activities in the Ha Long Bay
There are many activities you can do in
the Ha Long Bay. Whether it’s kayaking,
swimming, scuba diving, caving,
climbing, fishing, or taking a cruise.
Cruises
While booking a cruise might be a good
idea to explore Ha Long Bay,
choosing when to visit the bay is crucial.
Mist and rain can easily spoil your
experience.
The best time to visit Ha Long Bay is from
March to June and try avoiding public
holidays if you can (16, 17, 18 & 30 April, 1, 2
& 3 May).
Low season is from June to September
which means better deals, however it also
means rainier days so watch the forecast.
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To fully appreciate the surroundings,
book a 2 day cruise and don't forget to
shop around.
Quality cruises start from around $100
USD upwards per person. You can, of
course, find cheaper deals, but the quality
of the tour might be questionable.
CAT BA ISLAND
Getting to Cat Ba Island by a
public ferry is straightforward and cheap.
Tuan Chau ferry terminal
For a public ferry head to Tuần Châu
island. It's is a curious place and in a few
years will look very different from today.
Giant billboards show the planned
development to turn it from a sleepy
thoroughfare into what looks like the
Dubai of northern Vietnam. Good luck
with that.
The ferry terminal is located at the far end
of the harbour on the south side of Tuần
Châu island.
To find it, walk past the main coach park
and terminal from which all the day trips
and private boats leave. Here you can
grab some ferry tickets. Our tickets cost
$3.15 USD each for a one way trip to Cat
Ba island.
The ferry runs in both directions just 3
times a day in the low season and 5 times
in the high season. There is a time table
on a big board next to the terminal.
The journey takes around 1 hour and is
very relaxing and peaceful.
Catching the local bus to Cat Ba town
Once the ferry docks on Cat Ba island at
Bến phà Gia Luận ferry terminal, look for
the local bus to Cat Ba town. The bus is
timed to meet the ferry and transport
locals across the island.

Jump on board and pay once the bus
sets off. It cost around $1.12 USD per
person and takes around 30 minutes to
reach Cat Ba town.
What to see on Cat Ba Island
The town itself is a tourist hot spot, very
crowded, noisy and overbuilt. If you can,
look for a quieter spot to stay a few miles
outside of town and rent a motorbike to
explore the sights.
Hospital Cave
A must see cave on the island. At $1.30
USD per person, the Hospital Cave is well
worth a visit.
There is no official guide at the entrance,
but if you are lucky enough, you might
get a local guy walk you through the
manmade tunnels. We weren’t that lucky
and explored the cave by ourselves.
Spooky nonetheless.
The cave is located around 10 km north of
Cat Ba town and easily spotted by a big
sign by the main road. The ticket box is
on the opposite side from the cave. There
is a parking lot and a Vietnamese
restaurant, if feeling peckish.
The 3 storey, impressive concrete bomb
proof cave was constructed between 1963
and 1965 and used as a hospital during
the Vietnam (American) war.
There are 17 rooms in total and an old
operating theatre. Make sure you climb
the staircase leading up to the natural
cavern which was once used as cinema.
The historic Cannon Fort
At 177 meters above sea level, Canon Fort
can be a great hiking experience, but
PAGE 24 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
climbing up hill with our little scooter
was no effort.
You can scoot all the way up to the site
and park your bike in the designated
parking area. The admission fee is $ 1.79
USD per person.
Due to it’s prime location, the Cannon
Fort was successfully used during 3 wars,
by the Japanese during WWII, the French
during the Indochina War, and the Viet
Cong during the Vietnam War.
It’s an interesting site to visit, well
preserved and clearly marked.
Enjoy a nice stroll through the narrow
passageways, the dark U tunnel, small
rooms, maybe take some photos next to
real size canon with soldier mannequins
around it. Quite a view!
Divine Fortress
As you explore the Canon Fort, don’t
forget to enjoy the scenic views of Cat Ba
Island from the High Point 177 or Divine
Fortress. It was very foggy on our arrival,
but the views were still stunning.
A rule of thumb in foggy conditions is to
wait for the fog to shift. It always works for
us. We sat on the bench for just a few
minutes until the fog cleared revealing
the beautiful view across the bay.
Cat Ba National Park
Have a day out in the luscious ever green
Cat Ba National park and a World
Heritage Site. You might be lucky to meet
one of the Cat Ba langurs, the rarest in
the world.
The langurs are now sadly classified as
critically endangered primates, so be
nice!
TAM COC
VILLAGE
The town of Ninh Bình is located on the
main rail line and road links that run
along the length of Vietnam. Jump off
the trail here and head a short distance
to quaint village of Tam Coc close by.
It's a great place to relax for a day or two
and it’s easy to cycle to the nearby sights
such as the secluded Bích Động pagoda.
PAGE 25 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
Tam Coc means 3 caves and is a laid
back and absolutely wonderful place. We
loved the beautiful limestone karsts
surrounding the village.
Due to its incredibly scenic landscape
and the rice paddies it’s often referred to
as Ha Long on Land.

Getting to Ninh Bình
To reach Tam Coc village you will need to
travel to Ninh Bình first. It's a 3 or more
hour journey from Hanoi, depending on
the traffic.
Hanoi - Ninh Bình
For ultimate luxury and comfort you can
get a taxi from Hanoi to Ninh Bình. It will
cost you around $70 USD and takes
around 3 hours.
Otherwise, take a bus from the southern
bus terminal Giap Bat. Buses leave every
15 min for around $3 USD per person.
You might want to note that it is
common in Vietnam to be charged for
luggage. Depending on the size of your
bags, the price may jump to $4 USD per
person.
The bus journey will take around 3 hours
or more depending on the traffic.
Alternatively, take a train. Trains in
Vietnam are great and comfortable. You
can book tickets at the train station or
online.
Booking trains online in Vietnam is easy
and safe. Use the super friendly baolua.vn
site to book your rail tickets and if you
book online there’s no need to print
them. Just show your e-ticket to the
station staff on your smartphone before
you board. A time saver!
Cat Ba Island - Ninh Bình - Tam Coc
If you are planning to reach Tam Coc
from Cat Ba, it will be quite a journey.
1. Take a speedboat from Cat Ba to Hai
Phong. You can get a public fast boat at
the Cat Ba town harbour. Ticket costs $8
USD per person and you can buy them
just before departing.
It takes around 1 hour to get to Hai Phong
PAGE 26 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
and the ride, dependending on the
season, can be pretty choppy.
No more scenic Ha Long Bay views, but
still an interesting scenery.
2. In Hai Phong, the bus to Ninh
Bình leaves from Niem Nghia Bus Station,
where you can purchase tickets for
around $6.26 USD per person.
The journey from Hai Phong to Ninh
Bình takes around 3 hours and be aware,
local buses aren’t the most comfortable. If
you can, avoid local sleeper bus journeys,
see if you can get a touristy bus, they are
more comfortable.
3. Finally, in Ninh Bình, take a taxi to Tam
Coc. It’s around $5 USD per taxi ride. It
seems to be a standard taxi price from
and to the village.
There’s not much to do or see in Ninh
Bình as during the American War the
area was sadly completely flattened by
the heavy bombing.
It looks though, that the town is trying to
get back on its feet with lots of
construction taking place, which is nice
to see.
What to see and do in Tam Coc
Rent a motorbike/bike
It’s great to whizz through some local
areas and see the bright green rice fields
in the distance.
Tam Coc village is pretty flat so it’s easy
(and cheaper) to explore it by bike. Just
beware when going through some
narrow local streets, there are many dogs
barking about.
Renting a motorbike at a hotel will set
you back approx $9 USD plus petrol $2.25
USD.

Tam Coc lake
One of the biggest attractions in Tam Coc
village is the beautiful Tam Coc lake.
From here you can catch a boat called a
sampan and get taken along the river
Ngo Dong. The locals here row their boats
with their feet which is a big attraction
alongside the scenic landscape.
Mua Cave
For some stunning panoramic views of
the Tam Coc village, climb the 450 steps
to the Mua Cave.
Bích Động pagoda
Located near Ngu Nhac Mountain and
dating back to 1428, the Bích Động
pagoda is a nice site to visit while in the
village. Bike parking next to pagoda will
cost you $0.45 USD.
The walk to the Lower Pagoda is very
pleasant. There is also a bit of climbing to
be done to get to the Middle Pagoda, 100
steps to be more accurate.
Squeeze through the left side of the
pagoda and you will appear in a dark
secret cave with a slippery set of steps
leading towards the Upper Pagoda.
Very atmospheric.
Cuc Phuong National Park
If you love walks and nature, head to the
well preserved rainforest and home of
the Endangered Primates Rescue Centre.
Here, around 150 primates are being
prepared for release back into the wild.
You can only visit the centre with a
guide.
To make the most of the trip, you can also
take a couple of roads through the jungle
and enjoy the greenery.
PAGE 27 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
The roads are accessible by car,
motorbike or bike.
Hoa Lu Ancient Capital
To discover the ruins of the ancient
capital of Vietnam, head 15 km north
From tam Coc. Be aware there's not a
great deal to see.
Where to stay in Tam Coc
Tuấn Ngọc Hotel
If you are looking for a place to stay in
Tam Coc village, we can recommend
Tuấn Ngọc Hotel.
It’s a 3 floor hidden gem, away from the
busy main street and run by a local
Vietnamese family.
We really enjoyed our stay here and
especially loved the terrace where we
could do a bit of work.
On our arrival we were met with a cup of
tea and coffee. The lady of the house and
the whole family were very welcoming,
friendly and accommodating.
Our room was very spacious and 2 double
beds were complete with crisp clean
sheets.
We also had a little balcony in our room
overlooking the neighbour's garden and
the limestone rocks. We instantly loved
the place and even stayed here longer
than we initially planned.
At $ 18 USD per night with breakfast
included it was a great base from which
to explore the Tam Coc village.
The food here was great, so most of the
time we had lunch and dinner at our
accommodation too.

DONG HOI &
PHONG NHA
CAVES
Dong Hoi has little of interest for most
visitors but we found a great beachside
hangout just north of the town for a bit of
rest and relaxation by the sea.
Dong Hoi is an ideal jump off point to
visit the stunning Nha-Kẻ Bàng National
Park.
PAGE 28 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
Here you can stay in the small town of
Phong Nha and visit the selection of
amazing caves close by, including what is
thought to be the world’s biggest.
Some cave visits require booking in
advance so read up before you go.

Getting to Phong Nha
Hue - Dong Hoi
Take a local bus from the Northern Bus
Station in Hue. There are also touristy
buses available, but will cost you 5
times more for the same journey.
Nim Binh - Dong Hoi
The easiest way to get to Phong Nha is by
overnight train to Dong Hoi and then
taking a local bus. An overnight train goes
to Dong Hoi from Ninh Binh Railway
Station and costs $24 USD per
person. You can book train tickets online
for an additional $1 per ticket.
Dong Hoi - Phong Nha
There are at least 2 different bus stations
so follow the map below to locate the
right one.
Note: The bus you need to catch stops on
the road opposite the bus station and not
at the bus station itself.
The bus departs on the hour from both
ends of the route so you’ll need to wait by
the blue and white bus stop sign in Dong
Hoi and enthusiastically flag it down
when it comes past.
Like most of the local buses the
destinations are clearly displayed on the
top of the window screen.
You can take a taxi, but it will cost you
nearly as much as the whole train journey
$18 USD. Even if you share a taxi with
another 3 people, it’s still very expensive
PAGE 29 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
compared to a local bus which was
$1.57USD per person from Dong Hoi to
Phong Nha.
Dong Hoi
Backpacker Beachside Hostel
The hidden Backpacker Hostel is located
on the edge of the South China Sea in
the central coast of Vietnam.
To get there take a local bus ($1.34 USD)
all the way to Dong Hoi train station from
Phong Nha town centre at the riverfront.
Then catch a taxi or a motorbike to the
hostel.
What makes the Backpacker Beachside
Hostel so great, apart from it being on the
beach, is the staff. They were all amazing,
friendly and accommodating. We also
met lots of friendly travellers here, which
always makes the stay memorable.
The food here is really good and well
prepared. Sometimes, if they have
enough guest, the host will fire up an
impressive BBQ for around $5.40 USD per
person. The BBQ consisted of all sorts of
food, from fish, to meat, to seafood.
What to see in Phong Nha
Pong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park
The Pong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park is
gorgeous. Set amongst the limestone
karsts, the landscape is just magical.
We rented a bike to drive around the park
and absolutely loved it. We rented one
(without mirrors!) at our hotel at $9 USD
plus $2.24 USD for fuel.
If you rent a bike, be sure to drive out of
town and catch a soulful sunset. Also,
make sure you are well protected from
the sun in the day time.
Phong Nha Caves
There are 5 main caves to explore while in
Phong Nha:

Phong Nha Cave
Phong Nha Cave, also called ‘First
Wonder’ is an 8 km underground river
cave. The cave boasts amazing stalactites
and stalagmites throughout.
The tour around the cave takes from 2-3
hours and to get to the cave you have to
take a Dragon boat. The entrance fee is
$6.72 USD per person. The boat fee is
$16.14 USD per trip per person regardless
of the number of people on the boat, so
the more the cheaper per head.
Tien Son Cave
The dry Tien Son Cave is located around
200 m above Phong Nha Cave. It was
discovered in 1935 and is famous for its
magnificent stalactites.
You can visit this cave independently by
walking or by the Dragon boat. The
entrance fee is $3.59 USD per person plus
$16 USD boat fee, if you decide to take
the tour.
Chay River – Dark Cave
The adventurous Chay River – Dark Cave
can only be explored with a tour. The tour
includes a 400 m zip line from the
wildlife observation centre to the Dark
Cave entrance, followed by exploration of
the cave with headlamps and other
special equipment.
Swimming is involved in this tour across
the Thuy Tien Lake and also a mud bath.
After the activities in the mud, you will be
able to jump into the fresh water with
various games organised for your
entertainment.
Tours from 15 March – 15 September cost
$20 USD per person which includes the
entrance fee, kayak, zip-line, mud bath
and tour insurance.
If you are after a cheaper tour, plan your
visit from 16 September – 14 March. In low
season the tour costs nearly half price –
$11.21 USD.
PAGE 30 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
For visitors exploring the cave
independently, the entrance fee is $3.59
USD, but you are only allowed to explore
150 m of the cave. Kayak rental here is
$0.45 USD.
All these caves are open daily from 7 am –
5 pm. Night tours are available at the
Phong Nha Cave only.
The Paradise Cave
The impressive Paradise Cave can be
explored independently, without an
organised tour. We loved it.
Thuy Cung Cave
Finally if you are ready to spend $3000
USD (not a typo!) you can visit the Thuy
Cung Cave. It’s a 2 day trekking tour
through forests, swimming in the caves
blue waters and spending a night
camping at the Nuoc lan Cave.
Only a few hundred visitors a year are
permitted into the cave hence the hefty
price tag. Contact the Tourism Centre in
Phong Nha for more information.
Where to stay in Phong Nha
We chose a hotel, interestingly called
Heritage by Night. The hotel is in a good
location, a few doors away from the well
know Easy Tiger Backpacker Hostel
which serves good food as well
as some other food spots we loved.
Where to eat in Phong Nha
There is a very cute Vietnamese place
called A Vietnam Corner, right across the
street from the Heritage by Night Hotel
and is a traditional Vietnamese restaurant
and a hostel.
Capture is another place we really
recommend for food. It’s not cheap and
it’s primarily for westerners, but they do
make some amazing pizzas there.
HUE & THE
IMPERIAL
TOMBS
Hue (pronounced ‘hway’) was once the
capital of imperial Vietnam with power
transferring to Hanoi in 1945, marking the
end of imperial rule.
Today visitors can explore what was once
the inner sanctum known as the
Forbidden Purple City.
Despite being decimated during the
Vietnam War there is still plenty to
explore thanks to an ongoing restoration
project.
A stay in Hue would not be complete
without a visit to the stunning Imperial
Tombs of the Nguyen dynasty, who ruled
PAGE 31 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
over Vietnam from 1802 until 1945.
Former Emperors of Vietnam were buried
in their own elaborate imperial tombs
outside of the city and many of these can
still be visited today.
We had a great time exploring the tombs
on a motorbike and we had the more
abandoned, harder to reach ones mostly
to ourselves.
They are in varying states of repair and
tours tend to stick to the most restored
tombs. The monuments are definitely a
‘must see’ to help you understand the
complex history of Vietnam.

Getting to Hue
By train. Hue is on the mainline so easy to
get to from the north or south of
Vietnam. The line north to Dong Hoi
provides some stunning scenery as it
hugs the coastline tightly.
The train station is around 2 km from the
downtown area and taxis are on hand.
By bus. Public buses connect to Hue from
all the bigger cities in Vietnam.
Again, we recommend using baolau.vn to
book your train or bus tickets.
Things to see in Hue
In 1993 UNESCO declared the ‘complex of
Hue monuments’ a Word Heritage Site
which actually includes 14 separate sites
in and around the city of Hue.
The title covers the Imperial City in Hue
as well as the Hue Imperial Tombs which
are scattered along the banks of the
Perfume River.
We also visited 4 of the Imperial Tombs
and we would recommend visiting the
Imperial City first like we did to get a
good grounding of the Imperial history of
Hue and indeed Vietnam.
The Forbidden Purple City
It can be a little confusing when you first
encounter Hue and the Imperial City
(Kinh thành Huế). This name refers to the
walled city which sits inside the huge
fortified citadel complex on the banks of
the Perfume River.
There’s a large moat running all the way
around its perimeter so the citadel area is
pretty easy to spot on a map and the
modern city still centres around it. There
are several bridges linking the citadel to
the rest of Hue and are now houses and
businesses around both the outside of
the fortified walls and inside too.
PAGE 32 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
The Forbidden Purple City was a private
complex of buildings reserved exclusively
for the ruling emperor, his family, court
ladies and urchins housed inside the
Imperial City area, the inner sanctum if
you like. Being inside the main citadel
and moat, plus behind it’s own 3.7 m high
brick walls it was the safest place to live.
Today, you pay $7 to enter the Imperial
City complex which is often referred to as
the Forbidden Purple City. The ticket box
is located very close to the main entrance
with tickets being checked as you enter.
You enter the complex through the
impressive Noon Gate which has been
fully restored in recent years to its former
glory.
If you stand back and look up you’ll see a
stage above the entrance which was used
at grand royal ceremonies and the
central entrance was reserved for the
ruling emperor only.
Once through the Noon Gate the first
building you’ll enter is the beautifully
named Palace of Supreme Harmony.
There are some images and models here
to show what the Imperial City complex
would have looked like when it was first
completed in 1833.
The remaining area has several buildings
in differing states of repair with some
being restored at the time of our visit.
However anyone expecting to see the
actual Forbidden Purple City will be
sorely disappointed as this was flattened
by heavy fighting and bombing during
the Tet Offensive of January 1968.
The ‘battle of Hue’ as it later became
known was declared a victory for the
American forces but most of the city was
destroyed in the fighting. This is said to be
the beginning of the end for public and
political support for the war in the US.

To sum it up the Imperial City isn’t as
instantly stunning as some of the
Imperial Tombs outside the city. This is
mainly due to the lack of surviving
structures but it’s still a very interesting
place to visit and a ‘must see’ if you are in
Hue anyway.
To get the most out of a visit you really
need to use your imagination and picture
the place as a hive of activity stuffed full
of grand architecture. Restoration is
under way in several areas on the site but
the fact that some parts are still
overgrown was part of the charm.
The Imperial Tombs
Dotted along the banks of the Perfume
River, which flows through the city, the
tombs are extravagant mausoleums
where the former imperial emperors now
rest.
They are mostly split into two separate
areas, an area of temples and gateways
and tomb itself. You’ll find them in
differing states of repair as they were
mostly neglected in the late 20th century
before they became a major tourist
attraction.
Many of the tombs were planned out by
the emperors during their lifetimes and
some were used as residences while they
were still alive. They make for rather
unique places to visit close to the city of
Hue and there are a few options for
exploring the imperial tombs.
How to visit the Imperial Tombs of Hue
Book a Tour
You can get to many of the tomb sites
with an organised guided tour by car or
motorbike.
Some tours are combined with lunch and
a boat ride so ask at your hotel for a good
deal and check the reviews online to
avoid any bad guides or tour operators.
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Hire a Cyclo, Motorbike or Taxi
Another option is to negotiate your own
price for some local transport.
There are plenty of chaps in the city
centre willing to take you on a tour of the
tombs for a few dollars. It’s really
important to clarify which tombs you will
be visiting and how long they will wait for
you whilst you look around.
Just remember that it’s unlikely that you’ll
be getting a professional tour guide into
the bargain and the commentary given
could be very sketchy.
Think of it more as a fun way to get to the
tombs and you’ll have a great time.
Hire a Scooter
In true MapTrotting style we hired a
scooter from our hotel and made our
own one day tour. The scooter cost
us around $7 US to hire for the day and a
petrol top up cost $2.24 USD.
This works out way cheaper than any of
the tours but did involve a bit of research.
We pinned 4 tomb locations on Google
Maps and then used the app on our
iPhone to navigate between them.
The Imperial Tombs of Hue
Tu Duc (Tự Đức) Imperial Tomb
In our opinion, it's the best restored of the
imperial tombs. It was constructed for
Emperor Tu Duc who enjoyed the longest
reign of any of the Nguyen dynasty
monarchs, ruling from 1848-83.
This chap had over 100 wives and many
concubines, so used the tomb complex
as a retreat with some of them long
before his death in 1883. He lived there
from 1866 onwards after a coup against
him due to the high taxation needed to
complete the various buildings.

In the end Tu Duc was buried at a
different site altogether along with his
treasure and the 200 labourers who
buried the king were all beheaded
afterwards to keep it a secret from grave
robbers. Nice.
To this day no one is sure where Tu Duc is
actually buried.
Distance from Hue: 6 km (3.7 miles)
Entrance fee: $4.48 USD per person
Thieu Tri (Thiệu Trị) Imperial Tomb
This tomb is a real contrast to the Tu Duc
Tomb.
It hasn’t been restored to the same
degree as Tu Duc (his son) and that
makes it all the more interesting.
You get a real sense of the faded glory of
these monuments although the temple
area has been partially restored.
It was declared a World Heritage Site in
2003.
Emperor Thieu Tri is characterised as a
leader who didn’t want anyone, servants
or otherwise, to devote much time to him
and he followed an austere lifestyle.
He died early, before his tomb was
constructed, so his son Tu Duc followed
orders and built a financially modest
tomb complex in just 10 months.
Distance from Hue: 7 km (4.3 miles)
Entrance fee: $1.79 USD per person
Minh Mang (Minh Mạng) Imperial Tomb
On the opposite side of the Perfume River
in An Bang village, this tomb is built in a
stunning forest setting.
It’s been mostly restored and when
visiting make sure you walk all the way
through the temples and gates as the
tomb is right at the back of the complex
and could easily be missed.
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The tomb was planned during the reign
of Minh Mang (1820–1840) but built by his
successor, emperor Thieu Tri, mentioned
earlier.
Distance from Hue: 10 km (6.2 miles)
Entrance fee: $4.48 USD per person
Gia Long (Lăng Gia Long) Imperial Tomb
This was the hardest to find and most
remote of the Hue imperial tombs but
well worth navigating the extra few
kilometers of narrow county side roads
for.
The site is not accessible by car and
therefore isn’t visited by many tour
groups or day trippers.
The area is actually a large complex of
several different tombs from Gia Long’s
family, some of which have since been
destroyed or lie overgrown.
It’s the journey there and the peaceful
setting of the tombs that really make the
visit worthwhile.
The lack of visitors and neglect at this site
underlines the mixed attitude of the
Vietnamese towards its imperial past.
Gia Long was after all the guy that united
Vietnam in 1802 as the self proclaimed
first emperor of the Nguyen dynasty and
yet his tomb lies mostly neglected.
He was seen as taking Vietnam
backwards and copying the Chinese
rather than engaging with the western
world.
Gia Long set the precedent of emperors
building their own elaborately decorated
tombs modelled on the style of the
Chinese emperors.
Distance from Hue: 20 km (12.4 miles)
Entrance fee: Free (we tipped the security
guard as he was nice)

HOI AN &
DA NANG
Clinging to the coast and almost marking
the midway point of Vietnam you’ll find
the thriving city of Danang.
It’s home to the country's 3rd busiest
airport, modern shopping malls, good
nightlife and restaurants plus one of the
best stretches of sand in the country.
There’s a lot to like and it’s certainly worth
exploring.
However most visitors head just a few
kilometers south of Danang to the picture
perfect fishing village of Hoi An.
With its UNESCO status the well
preserved narrow streets of the old town
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area draw visitors here to experience a
past vision of Vietnam.
Be sure to time your visit with the
monthly Full Moon Lantern Festival for a
really memorable experience.
Tailors in Hoi An will make you a garment
in no time with hardly any extra fittings
needed in between taking the first
measurements to presenting your
masterpiece all stitched up and ready to
wear.
There are also fantastic beaches near by.
Catch a spectacular sunset while
swimming in the soothing waters.

Getting to Hoi An
By train. The closest train station is Da
Nang. From here you will have to take a
bus or a taxi to get to Hoi An. Check train
times and prices at baolau.vn.
You will be mobbed with taxi drivers
once you step outside the train station,
but it’s a short walk to the nearest bus
stop. Look for Pizza Hut on the corner, a
few doors away, (outside house number
299) and you will see a bus stop, that’s
where you can catch a bus to Hoi An
which goes every half an hour.
By air. The 3rd international airport in
Vietnam, Da Nang International Airport, is
conveniently located in central Da Nang.
Getting to Hoi An by taxi. Make sure you
catch a green taxi, they have the meter
running. However, the price to Hoi An
might be set as it’s a fair drive from Da
Nang. It should cost you around $15 USD.
Getting to Hoi An by a local bus. Frequent
buses between Danang – Hoi An are
running every day, with last bus leaving
Da Nang at around 6pm. It takes around
45 minutes, depending on the traffic and
the technical condition of your bus. You
can catch bus 1 from the stop mentioned
above.
Bus ticket costs $0.72 USD but beware of
dishonest ticketers, majority of them will
try to rip you off. Most of the time they try
charging foreigners $1.50 USD per person.
If you try to argue, they will point to your
backpack indicating that you need to pay
for those too, which you don’t!
TIP: Make sure you have the right change
ready or you will risk not getting any
change back.
Usually there will be a yellow notice with
prices inside the bus. If they ask for more
money, just keep pointing to the price list
and smile.
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Where to stay in Hoi An
There are plenty of hotels and other
means of accommodation in Hoi An, but
we really recommend staying outside of
the Old Town. It’s a small place so you will
never be too far away from the town
centre. Most of the hotels provide bikes
for free so you won’t need to spend
anything on transport, unless you decide
to catch a cab.
Jolie Villa Hoi An Homestay
Just a few streets north of the Hoi An bus
station, on a quiet side street you will find
Jolie Villa. Complete with clean crisp
sheets and big comfortable beds the
spacious rooms are great for relaxing after
a day in the buzzing Old Town. Try
getting a room with a balcony.
The staff are very friendly, speak good
English and will happily help you with
any questions you have.
The hotel is located on a nice street, close
enough to cycle into the town, but far
enough if you are looking for a quality rest
away from the town’s hustle and bustle.
Bikes are included in the room rate and
are free for you to use at any time.
Full House Homestay
Just round the corner on a parallel street
to Jolie Villa (2 minute walk), you will find
Full House, another great guesthouse
with beautiful rooms and generous
balconies facing the beautiful street.
The family who run the hotel are very
friendly, welcoming and accommodating.
The rooms are clean and spacious. Good
breakfast is included in the room rate
and here comes a perk, it’s served all day!
If you missed your breakfast, you can get
it at lunch time, or even save your free
meal for dinner if you are out all day.

Where to eat and drink in Hoi An
Hoi An, even though a small town, has a
massive food scene and hundreds of
restaurants to cater for everyone. Some
better than others.
Dingo Deli
A big Aussie ex-pat community lives in
Hoi An and neighbouring Da Nang, so if
you’ve been travelling around SE Asia for
months and want something more
tangible to sink your teeth in, go for the
Aussie restaurant and bakery Dingo Deli.
The food here, although on the pricey
side, is really great.
We ate our way through the menu while
living in Hoi An and loved almost every
dish. Try the Fish & Chips or make your
own deli sandwich. Check out their
specials board, they always have
something good going on.
The deli is also a great working space. If
you need to work on the laptop, they
have a fairly speedy internet, plenty of
tables inside with aircon and outside
tables with sockets and fans.
3 Dragons Gastropub
Fancy a burger in Hoi An? Not a problem,
at least two places serve great burgers.
The 3 Dragons gastro pub by the river
serves best burgers in town. Believe us,
we’ve done our research.
Again, a bit on a pricey side, but
absolutely worth it if you are feeling
slightly homesick.
Jim’s Snackbar
This is another place for a comfort grub.
The veggie burger, made from potatoes,
was slightly plane, but the blue cheese
burger was fabulous. Chunky chips here
are beautiful too.
Minh Hien Vegetarian Restaurant
One of the best veggie restaurants in
town is definitely Minh Hien Vegetarian
Restaurant.
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Their tofu with passion fruit sauce is to
die for.
Also try the veggie version of the White
Rose, which is traditionally made with
pork and shrimp. The Won Ton here is
great too.
Fresh beer is available for a mere $0.13
USD! It’s very nice and you should
definitely have a go and try it.
There are two Minh Hien Vegetarian
restaurants in town. One is in the town
centre (50 Trần Cao Vân, tp. Hội An)
which also runs cookings classes and the
other one (30A Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoi An)
is located slightly outside the main tourist
area, on a quieter street.
Restaurant 339
On the way to the beach stop at the
Restaurant 339 for the best Cao Lau in
town. They might even do a veggie
option, if you ask nicely.
It’s on the main road to An Bang beach
so makes a great pitstop on the way there
or back. Great mango smoothies here too.
Hoi An Local Food Hall
A cheaper option in Hoi An is the Food
Hall in the heart of Hoi An’s Old Town.
There are lots of stalls selling local street
food at low prices. We had lovely mango
smoothies here accompanied with beef
and chicken Cao Lau (at $0.90 USD per
portion) and it was great value.
Restaurant 382
Give the Restaurant 382 a try. The ladies
who run the restaurant are delightful and
the food here is great.
The vegetable spring rolls are beautiful
and they also make super sweet home
made sorbet-like mango ice cream.
Beer. Bia Saigon or the local Biere Larue
can be found everywhere around the
town, but the best way to enjoy it is by
the river with the locals.

They have it all set up, just sit at the table
or on a little chair and enjoy the quietness
away from the Old Town along the river
to the east.
Coffee. While there are a fair amount of
coffee shops in Hoi An we encourage you
to also join the locals on the little
colourful stools and sip coffee while
contributing to the community. We think
it’s always important to check out the
street life before heading into the coffee
roasters.
If you are interested in something unique,
pop into the Reaching Out Teahouse.
It’s a social enterprise which was created
in order to share an authentic Hoi An
(meaning peaceful meeting) through the
tradition of drinking tea and coffee with
friends and family.
The ambience here is serene as the
guests are encouraged to whisper and
appreciate the beauty of silence. The
teahouse is run by hearing and speech
impaired staff and so for communication
you use the cubes provided on the table.
What to see and do in Hoi An
The Old Town
We felt like we were back in Cuban
Trinidad when we saw the colonial
architecture in the Old Town of Hoi An, it
has so many resemblances. The yellow
crumbling buildings are beautiful, but it’s
the tantalising lanterns, hanging just
about everywhere that will steal your
heart. The colours and shapes of these
beautiful lights are the main
feature which makes Hoi An so
distinctive.
Entrance fee to Hoi An’s Old Town
Yes, there is an entrance fee to the
magical Old Town. It’s a one off $5 USD
fee per person. Make sure you keep the
ticket safe as you can be stopped
anywhere in the Old Town and asked to
show it.
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The ticket will also get you into 5 main
Hoi An attractions of your choice.
The Japanese Covered Bridge is one of
the main attractions to see in
the Old Town. The photogenic spot is
popular amongst both, locals and visitors.
It glows beautifully at night so make your
way to the town once the sun goes down.
The famous ancient buildings in the Old
Town include the Cantonese Assembly
Hall, Duc An Old House, Hoi An Craft
Workshop, Museum of Folk Culture,
Museum of Trade Ceramics, Phuc Kien
Assembly Hall, Phung Hung Ancient
House, Tan Ky Old House, Tran Family
Chapel, Quan Cong Temple.
If you fancy juicy mangoes or other
tropical fruit, head to the central Hoi An
Market.
The Full Moon or Lantern Festival is a
beautiful sight to behold on the pitch
black streets of Hoi An’s Old Town. It’s the
time when the locals pay their respects to
their ancestors, burn fake money for luck
and wealth and, of course, sell lots of
paper lanterns to tourists. We really
recommend timing your visit with this
festival, if you can. It takes place on the
14th day of each lunar month but that
can vary so check with the locals.
Tailor up in Hoi An
One of the best ways to buy some lovely
clothes in Hoi An is get them tailored.
There are so many beautiful dresses and
other garments on display, but don’t be
fooled, they are all just samples. Unless
you are tiny, to get the right size, let them
measure you.
Lu Ly Couture is a great little shop just on
the edge of the Old Town opposite the
market. Lu is great, she’s very
accommodating and speaks good
English.
Address: 39 Hoang Dieu St., Hoi An
Contact details: lulytailor@gmail.com

Vietnamese massage
Book yourself for an invigorating
Vietnamese massage at Pandanus Spa
Hoi An. Staff here are extremely friendly
and accommodating. The place is not as
fancy as the other spa’s in the Old Town,
but the services are professional and
much cheaper.
You can treat yourself to a full facial, mani
and pedi, waxing or body therapies. The
prices vary between $12 for facial services
(60 minutes) to $14 for a full body
massage (70 minutes). 3 to 5 hour
personalised pampering packages are
also available.
Contact details:
pandanusspa@gmail.com
Go to the beach
There are 2 beaches in Hoi An, An Bang
Beach and Cua Dai Beach. The latter has
been recently shattered by a typhoon so
doesn’t have much of a beach left. Both
beaches are within easy reach from Hoi
An.
To get to An Bang Beach you can hop
into a cab or simply cycle.
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If you are cycling, take extra care on the
main road, it’s narrow and always very
busy with trucks and coaches going back
and forth.
In general it’s quite a clean beach, but
unfortunately some rubbish is washed up
along the shoreline. The water is clean
and gets very warm in the summer
months. Slightly cooler in spring.
If sunbathing is not on the agenda, head
to the beach for a sunrise swim in
soothing warm sea. Sunsets here are
pretty spectacular too.
TIP: To avoid overcrowded beach, at the
junction before the main parking lot, turn
left. Cycle along a local narrow street until
you see signs on your right, pointing you
towards the beach. The path will take you
away from the crowds.
If you are looking for a pristine white sand
beach, head further north to the
gorgeous My Khe Beach in Da Nang. The
beach comes to life and starts buzzing
after the sunset. That’s when the locals
come out to play. If it’s full moon, stay
around until dark and have a swim in the
moonlight.

DA LAT
Nestled in the central highlands of
Vietnam, Dalat is a welcome break from
the high humidity of the lowland areas.
The cooler climate gives it a slightly
European flavour and the French colonial
architecture now sits jumbled alongside a
slew of modern shopping malls and
hotels.
There are a wide range of outdoor
activities to choose from such as hiking,
climbing and even canyoning.
For the more relaxed traveler the
standout attractions are the heritage
PAGE 40 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
railway line and a cable car up to a
monastery above the town.
Da Lat is often called ‘The city of eternal
spring.’ It’s also a honeymoon
destinations for the locals so you might
accidentally gate crash a photo shoot by
the lake.
This creates a unique mix of attractions
aimed at the Asian market which may
appear cheesy or outright strange to
outsiders.
Think horses painted to look like zebras
as a photo opportunity!

Getting to Dalat
As there's no rail connection it’s easy to
reach Da Lat by air. We had a very
pleasant 1 hour flight from Da Nang
International Airport. In addition, you can
also catch a flight to Da Lat from (and to)
HCMC or Hanoi.
Da Lat airport is located 30 km south of
the city and operates frequent shuttle
busses to and from the town. Tickets
costs $1.79 USD per person. You can
purchase the ticket at the airport or on
board the bus which stops right outside
the airport and is easy to spot.
The bus driver will drop you off at your
accommodation only in you are staying
at one of the major hotels. Don’t expect
the driver to take you all the way to your
hostel or budget hotel but have the
address handy and they will let you know
when you’re close.
Alternatively, catch a local bus at HCMC,
Bien Hoa, Nam Cat tien, Phan Rang, Nha
Trang or Buon Ma Thuot. Check times
and book tickets at baolau.vn.
Getting around Da Lat
It’s easy to get around Da Lat by a bike or
a motorbike although roads, just like in
the rest of Vietnam, are a little crazy. We
found it very easy to simply walk around
the town. The pavements here are well
maintained and mostly free of clutter.
It seems taxis here are reasonably priced
too and will take you to the main
attractions for a very affordable fare.
Or at your own risk, get a motorbike taxi
(Xe Om), they are available everywhere,
but remember to check the price before
getting on one.
Additionally, you can hire Easyriders. An
Easyrider is a local guy who knows the
area very well.
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However, beware, not all locals who offer
the services are genuine guides.
Where to stay in Da Lat
For a good night sleep, stay at Hai Long
Vuong Hotel with its fantastic panoramic
views of Da Lat. The hotel is located on a
local quiet street, around 20 min leisurely
walk from the town centre.
We recommend booking a private room
with a balcony or at least a window.
Our bed was very comfortable, complete
with crisp clean sheets and fresh towels.
We really enjoyed our stay here, the hotel
is run by a friendly family who speak good
English.
What to see and do in Da Lat
Have a chilled walk around the gorgeous
crescent-moon-shaped Xuan Huong lake.
The lake is rather large, covering 43 ha,
but strolling around is very pleasant. Half
way through at the eastern end of the
lake, step into the Japanese garden and
cross the red bridge into a cafe on a little
island. Rest your feet while sipping tea
overlooking this peaceful man made lake.
Visit the Truc Lam pagoda and its
beautiful gardens. Although swamped
with coach tours, it’s still a beautiful
monastic site to visit. Have a stroll along
the pine tree promenades and go down
to the ‘Valley of Love’.
Take a boat or simply enjoy the view from
the nearby lake. Avoid the local huts
selling refreshments though as they will
try to rip you off big time.
To reach the monastery, take the Cable
Car (Cáp Treo Đà Lạt) located 3 km south
of the city.

We recommend getting here by a
motorbike or a taxi as the road to the
cable car is rather steep.
Head to the oldest Railway Station in
Vietnam. The Japanese train will take you
through the scenic suburbs towards the
Linh Phuoc pagoda.
The train leaves the station every 2 hours.
Tickets cost $5.38 USD per person,
however buying them can be slightly
tricky as the ticket office might be closed
on your arrival. The best thing to do is sit
at the station and wait for it to open.
Otherwise you are risking for
the limited tickets to be snatched by a
coach tour.
Trekking Lang Biang Mountain
Trekking Lang Biang in Da Lat is slightly
challenging. The 4 km vertical climb will
leave you out of breath but it’s worth a
trek, if not for the most spectacular views
at the top then for the challenge itself. If
nothing else, it’s a great exercise.
Getting to Lang Biang independently
Lang Biang is located 12 km from Da Lat
centre and is within an easy reach by
bike, motorbike or a local bus.
The road is straight forward, but gets
rough in places due to a new road being
laid at the moment.
Local bus #5 (look for Lang Biang written
on the bus windows) leaves from Da Lat
bus station near the central market every
hour and costs $0.54 USD one way.
You will be issued a ticket with the
price on it so no ripping off tourists here.
The ladies on the bus were very nice and
even gave us a piece of paper with the
return times written on it.
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The bus takes around 45 minutes and
drops you off by the main entrance to the
national park.
Prepare for the trek at Lang Biang
Have a good breakfast, wear good
footwear and take a rain jacket or a
jumper, it gets slightly windy and cold at
2,167m above sea level. But above
everything, make sure you have plenty of
water. The climb is steep and sweaty so
you will want at least a 1l bottle if not
more per person.
Take the right trekking path
On arrival to Lang Biang, next to the main
gate, on the left hand side, there is a
ticket booth where you pay $0.90 USD for
the entrance to the national park. Apart
from that, there’s no information, leaflets
etc., of where to go and what to do.
The car park here is pretty horrific,
packed with tour buses and Jeeps, so
beware, some drivers are quite aggressive.
Most of the locals will take Jeeps to take
them to one of the peaks. Luckily, the
Jeeps can’t get to the tallest peak, so the
trek there is nice and peaceful.
There is a road all the way up the Lang
Biang mountain. It’s very narrow and, in
our opinion, lethal. If you set up to the
mountain on foot, don’t take this road!
After buying your tickets DON’T go
through the gate. Take the path on the
right hand side by the main gate.
It might be muddy and may not look like
a path, but it is. The path will lead you
into the national park through the
strawberry fields, veg greenhouses and a
coffee plantation.
If in doubt, just ask a local as they are
used to people hiking up this way. It’s
much safer than the main road and
much more peaceful and scenic too.

Once in the forest just follow the steep
path up until you see the main road. The
trek, depending on your fitness level,
takes approximately 2-3 hours.
Unfortunately you will have to step onto
the main road for around 50 m or so to
reach the base of the mountain. Once
you see a large map and a ticket booth,
you know you are on the right path.
During the high season, have some cash
with you as you might need to pay
another $0,90 USD to access the path to
the tallest peak in the area.
Climbing the tallest peak in Da Lat
Climbing the tallest peak of Lang Biang
PAGE 43 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
was quite challenging, but also pretty
cool.
You can see the peak you are about to
climb from the path and realise it’s not
going to be easy.
As you start climbing the mountain, it
gets darker and the trek gets narrower
leading you up through the jungle, the
forest suddenly sinks into the soft fog.
Luckily, it also gets cooler.
There are signs along the way to tell you
how much you’ve got left to climb, but at
times, we preferred not to know as the
trek seemed never ending.

CAT TIEN
NATIONAL
PARK
Just off the main highway around half
way between Dalat and Ho Chi Minh City
you’ll find the peace and tranquility of Cat
Tien National Park.
It’s over 72,000 hectares of wildly diverse
park offering a range of safaris and hikes
for visitors.
We opted to stay on the riverside and
venture into the park in daylight hours. If
you like, you can take a night safari or
PAGE 44 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
hike to see the gibbons wake up with the
sunrise.
There are limited accommodation
options here so book ahead in the high
season.
We headed inland to break the long, 8
hour bus journey between Da Lat and
Saigon and had a couple of relaxing days
exploring the national park.

Getting to Cat Tien National Park
There are 3 options to get to Cat Tien
National Park from Da Lat.
First option is booking a local minivan
through your accommodation in Da Lat,
which we ended up doing.
The deal was cheap, around $7 each but
the ride was rather disturbing. A van
pulled in to pick us from the hotel and
was already filled with people and boxes
piled above our heads.
The driver was 1.5 hours late to pick us up
and to compensate the lost time, he felt
the need to unleash his inner racer.
On top of that he kept picking up more
locals even though there were no seats
available. We were already squished like
sardines in a can when we made another
stop to pick up 2 massive baskets of fruit,
just another day in Vietnam! The guys
and everyone else on board were very
friendly though.
The second option is to book a big bus.
It’s more expensive, around $8 ($10 for a
sleeper bus), but much more comfortable
and less stressful.
You can book the same bus from HCMC
(Saigon).
The only inconvenience booking a bigger
bus is that it drops you off on the main
highway and from there you will need to
grab a taxi to get to the national park.
Taxi will cost you around $18. Unless you
are prepared to walk 25 km.
The minivan however, drops you right
next to the gate into the National Park.
Advice: If you decide to go with the local
minivan, just trust the driver to drop you
off in the right place. They will be
stopping in lots of different spots to load
and unload goods.
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Stop checking your Google Map as it
might seem like you are going way away
from the national park. Don’t worry, you
will most likely be the last person in the
van to be dropped off.
The third option is to take a train on the
main Hanoi - Hue - Ho Chi Minh City line,
but the nearest train station Long Khanh
is not a very convenient stop. From here it
will take another 2 hours or so by
taxi/rental car, which you should arrange
in advance.
Where to stay in Cat Tien
We enjoyed our stay at the Green
Bamboo Lodge. Our bamboo shack was
located at the end of the resort, with the
terrace sticking out into the river.
The hut was clean and ready for our
arrival. Our bed was comfortable, covered
with a decent mosquito net, the shower
room was clean with plenty of hot water.
You can also find accommodation inside
the park, however, we would recommend
staying outside the parkland as it’s just
one boat ride away. Staying in the park is
much pricier and not necessarily any
better.
What to see and do in Cat Tien
Book a tour
There is a lot to see in the Cat Tien
National Park and one of the ways to see
things like the famous Crocodile Lake is
by booking a tour.
An all day tour costs around $50 per
person and includes a Jeep ride, hiking,
lunch and water.
The tour usually starts early in the
morning at around 6.30 am until 4 pm.
You will be able to book a tour through
your accommodation.

Trek in Cat Tien National Park
However, if you are on a budget and
aren’t into tours, you can easily do a nice
loop on foot. It all depends on how far
you want to go and what you want to see.
Before setting out on foot, make sure you
wear appropriate footwear, trousers,
closed shirts and a hat. There are leeches
lurking in the forest. Take lots of water
with you, it’s very humid out there.
To reach the national park (if you are
staying on the other side of the river), buy
a boat ticket at the entrance (around $2)
and go to the river bank to catch a local
boat.
Once you cross the river, along the road
to the left hand side you will find a tourist
information office (Headquarters) where
you can pick up a map in English.
The map has a rough route with the
distances indicated between the sights. It
also has a brief description of each
attraction.
It is also a good idea to use Google Maps
and GPS on your phone if possible as the
printed maps are quite vague and not to
scale.
Start walking on the paved road until you
see the first sign pointing to the forest.
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Follow the footpath marked with blue
arrows and you will soon reach the giant
Tung Tree.
Keep following the arrows to find the
beautiful 5 topped Largerstroemia Tree,
the river rapids and other sights marked
on the map.
The walk is very easy and pleasant and it’s
flat all the way. There won’t be anything
too excausting, just humid.
The national park is home to hundreds of
exotic birds which you may be lucky to
spot on your way. There is also a Botanical
Garden area full of endangered plants. If
you don’t want to go into the forest, you
can simply follow the paved path and
enjoy your butterfly filled walk.
Exploring the park on a bike
You can also rent a bike, but you won’t be
able to take it with you into the forest as
the paths are too narrow and sometimes
blocked with fallen trees.
Unless you only want to follow the paved
path around the park, we don’t
recommend hiring a bike.
It seems like the bikes are slightly tired
and broken. They will set you back
around $5 per bike.
HO CHI
MINH
CITY
The troubled Vietnam of the past is
brought crashing into the modern age in
the cauldron of sights, smells and sounds
that is HCMC.
Even the briefest of stays here and you’ll
feel the energy of this fast paced
metropolis embracing it’s bright new
future.
PAGE 47 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
Don’t miss shopping or grabbing a snack
at the famous Ben Thanh Market before
exploring the nearby French influence of
the Notre Dame Cathedral and stunning
Post Office building.
Or get a bird’s eye view from one of the
city's tallest buildings at the Brexico
Tower viewing platform.

Getting to Ho Chi Minh City
By Air. Saigon is easily reachable by air.
Tan Son Nhat airport, the largest in
Vietnam, is conveniently located about 8
km from the city centre.
The bus No. 152 will take you to the east
end of the Pham Ngu Lao area. An
additional charge of around $0.23 USD
applies for your luggage. Make sure you
have the exact change ready.
There are two pick up bus stops, one in
front of the international terminal and
the other one in front of the domestic
terminal, you will need the latter. The last
bus leaves the terminal at around 6pm.
You can also catch bus No.109, it’s more
expensive than the No. 152. but the last
bus leaves at around 1:30 am.
By bus. Futa Bus Lines is a good company
to use when travelling by bus to Saigon
from popular destinations such as Da
Nang, Hue, Da Lat or Nha Trang. You can
book a seat online via baolau.vn website.
TIP: Once you get to Saigon, avoid taxis at
the bus stations, if you can. The taxi
drivers will rip you off. Simply walk out of
the station on to the main road and catch
a green taxi.
We found the green taxis to be the best,
they all have a meter running and
throughout our trip around Vietnam, we
never had any problems.
Where to stay in HCMC
We found an apartment on Airbnb (click
on the link to have $20 free credit on us!),
conveniently located in the ‘Wall Street’
of Saigon. Minh, our host, was very
welcoming and accommodating.
It’s a comfortable, spacious and tastefully
decorated studio flat, with a few funky
details.
PAGE 48 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
The bed was very comfortable and the
bedding was very nice. Towels were fluffy,
clean and soft.
Across the alleyway, the neighbouring
derelict building houses 2 hidden cafes
and a few pop up fashion shops. Have a
nose around if you stay in the flat.
What to see and do in HCMC
Saigon Skydeck
Right in the heart of the financial district,
the Bitexco Financial Tower houses the
360 degree viewing platform – Saigon
Skydeck. The glass tower is an impressive
piece of modern architecture sticking out
way above the other buildings in the area.
Go there just before sunset to catch the
views in the daylight and in the dark. The
entrance to the tower costs around $9
per person.
Saigon Opera House
Restored in 1995 the Saigon Opera House
(Ho Chi Minh Municipal Theater) is a
beautiful structure and a fine example of
the French Colonial architecture in
Vietnam. If you have time and budget,
pretend you are in Vienna and watch a
current performance.
Saigon Central Post Office
We were hugely impressed with the
striking yellow structure of Saigon Central
Post Office. Designed by the famous
Frenchman Gustav Eiffel (of tower fame),
constructed in the late 19th century the
building is a must visit sight.
Do wander inside to admire the beautiful
interior of the building, have a seat and
soak in the atmosphere.
Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica
Across the road from the Post office, you
can’t miss the Saigon Notre-Dame
Basilica, constructed between 1863 and
1880.

While you are wondering around the
cathedral, pop into the tree shaded
promenade of book stores and cafes
parallel to it (on your right hand side
walking away from the Post office, just
past McDonalds).
It’s a nice and tranquil spot for a brief
stroll, a coffee or some light reading.
Binh Tay Market (Chợ Bến Thành)
You will find this iconic building in
District 6 on Thap Muoi Street (Đường
Tháp Mười). The architecture is gorgeous
with its smooth pale yellow facade.
The market is predominantly wholesale,
but souvenir, clothing and food stalls are
also available. It’s notorious for high prices
so bargain hard.
Where to eat in HCMC
It really depends on your taste, how long
you’ve been travelling around Vietnam
and how much you’ve missed comforting
food. There are plenty of high end and
western restaurants in Saigon, or simple
carts selling Banh Mi by the road.
If you are looking for a cheaper option,
the sandwiches are usually under a dollar,
but mind you sometimes they can be
quite small.
Quán “Ngói” – funky restaurant with a
rooftop terrace
There is no English version of the menu
so choosing a meal can be a struggle.
However, the staff are very helpful.
The tables and chairs are a little squished
in, but the atmosphere is quite chilled.
This was Charlie’s top restaurant. He said
the meat fresh from the hotplate on the
table was excellent.
Nhu Lan – Vietnamese street food
Nhu Lan turned out to be one of our
favourite places to come for lunch or
even dinner sometimes.
PAGE 49 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
The food here is simple and delicious. The
Pho Ga (chicken noodle soup) here is
really nice served with plenty of chicken,
fresh basil and sprout. Try their smoothies,
they are really good.
The place is always busy on weekdays
during lunch time, but there are plenty of
seats. We never struggled to find one.
Around the restaurant, there are lots of
snack stalls where you can purchase
baguettes and other various snacks.
Look out for grilled banana with sticky
rice. It comes wrapped in a banana leaf,
accompanied with coconut milk and
peanuts. Smelled just like peanut butter.
Delicious.
Uptown District Banh Mi Express –
sandwiches
Uptown District Banh Mi Express is a cute
sandwich shop located in the financial
district of Saigon.
It’s a cosy little shop with a sandwich bar
and a few seats at the back. The Bahn Mi
(sandwiches) here are freshly made, tasty
and reasonably priced.
Baba’s Kitchen – best Indian in town
Not a Vietnamese fusion, but if you feel
like having a good quality Indian food,
head to Baba’s Kitchen in the backpacker
district.
The food here is fantastic and the service
is excellent. The staff are very friendly and
attentive.
Ngoc Chau Garden – Home Cooked
Vietnamese Restaurant
Authentic Ngoc Chau Garden is a nice
place to indulge in traditional
Vietnamese cuisine. The food is very well
prepared and beautifully served. We
found the menu a little confusing though.
It’s not the cheapest place to come for
food if you are on the budget, but the
overall experience was very pleasant.

Hun Khoi BBQ restaurant
You will find quite a few pub-ish looking
places in the financial district. This one is
a mix of a traditional wooden interior and
flashy neon lights.
The food at Hun Khoi BBQ is quite
decent. Charlie enjoyed his beef burger
and I loved the boneless chicken wings
with Chilli Sambal. The Sambal sauce was
beautiful. The food is BBQ’d outside the
restaurant on the street by a few skilful
local guys.
Kichi-Kichi – hot pot chain restaurant
Kichi-Kichi is like a Sushi bar but with a
hot pot. You get lots of veg, raw meat, fish
and tofu on a conveyor belt and then
cook it in your own hot pot. Not cheap,
but good fun.
The meat is served frozen and cooks very
quickly in the boiling pot. The clams were
beautiful and well recommended!
Quirky cafes in HCMC
There’s plenty of choice for coffee in
Saigon, from local hidden cafes to
modern spacious coffee shops and even
Starbucks.
If you have a chance, simply stop at any
local tiny cafe and sit with the locals. We
loved it, the local chaps were friendly and
a pint of ice coffee cost just $0.40 USD.
Boo Coffee
As you take a stroll along the ‘Walking
Street’, pop into one of the old apartment
buildings on your right hand side (when
facing the Town Hall).
The building is hard to miss as it has neon
signs, lanterns and also lights up in the
dark.
Climb the staircase right to the top floor
PAGE 50 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
following the Boo Coffee signs on the
walls. You can also take a lift as it’s quite a
climb.
Boo Cafe is a funky little place
overlooking the Walking Street, which
looks very cool in the dark.
The signature drink of the cafe is the
candy floss ice tea. The tea itself is lovely
and reminded us of Thai tea, but beware
the candy floss can be messy. It melts too
fast in the humidity!
Mockingbird Coffee Shop
We stumbled upon the Mockingbird
Coffee Shop only because our apartment
(mentioned earlier) was across the
alleyway.
Again, housed in a derelict feeling
building, the cafe adopted a vintage style
like many arty coffee spots in Saigon.
When ordering coffee here, make sure
you specify whether you want hot or cold
drink. If you don’t, you will receive iced
drink which is a standard choice as
opposed to hot coffee.
The cafe is located on the 4th floor.
There’s no lift in the building, but the
climb is not too strenuous. There are lots
of fashion and arty pop up shops along
the way, so have a look around.

Chapter 5
Health
The number for emergency services in Vietnam is 115 from any local phone or
cellphone.
Insurance – make sure you are covered by
good health insurance before visiting
Vietnam. The country has both public
and private hospitals and clinics.
Foreigners will generally use the private
option where available but it will need
paying for.
Vaccinations – seek the advice of your
healthcare provider before travelling to
Vietnam, particularly if you are visiting
more rural areas of the country. You may
be advised to get vaccinated and this
could take several weeks for a course of 2
or 3 injections. See our planning your
heath care for travel section on our blog
for more advice.
Malaria – there is a low to no risk status for Then don’t forget to squeeze the
the majority of Vietnam but it’s advisable
to take precautions against insect bites.
You can find a handy malaria map and
further advice by following the link. Again,
seek advice before you go as above.
Tap Water – do not drink the tap water
anywhere in Vietnam.
PAGE 51 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE
Also be cautious with ice in drinks as this
can be made from untreated tap water.
Bottled water is cheap and available
pretty much everywhere.
Food – when eating out use your
common sense and avoid anywhere that
looks unclean or poorly maintained. We
would encourage you to try some street
food as very often these spots can be
cleaner than a restaurant where the
kitchen is hidden.
At many local food joints you’ll see some
cut up limes on the table. Wipe these
over your forks or chopsticks to help
sterilize them, it’s what the locals do.
remaining juice onto your food for even
more flavour.
The two times we had a bad stomach
bug in 3 months in Vietnam it was from a
‘western style’ restaurant which says a lot.
Higher prices do not always mean higher
standards!
 PAGE 52 | VIETNAM | THE COMPLETE GUIDE

Chapter 6
Weather

As Vietnam is such a long country, stretching itself from China down towards the
equator, temperature and climate can vary dramatically. This means that there is no
one ideal time to visit the whole country weather wise.

Split Vietnam into 3 sections for the best
weather months:
North (Hanoi, Sapa, Cat Ba Island) –
October, November and December have
less rain and clearer views. We were here
in March and it was rather cold and misty.
Middle (Hue, Danang, Nha Trang) –
January through to July for dry days with
lower more comfortable temperatures.
South (Saigon, Mekong Delta) –
November through to February/March are
dry and slightly less hot.
If you are travelling the whole length of
the country, light clothes will see you
through most of it.
Anything that will dry quickly is good as it
can be hard to avoid the odd storm and
don’t forget an umbrella.
You might need warmer clothes for the
northern areas but we picked up a couple
of jackets in Hanoi for a few dollars each.
Remember: don’t over pack!
Read More: Our travel packing advice
Before you go...
Looking to plan some adventures and travel the world? A little travel planning goes a
long way in making a great trip and it doesn’t have to be overly complicated or
confusing. We can show you the way in Our Ultimate Travel Planning Guide.

This 62 page book is based on our
personal experience of committing to,
saving for, planning and then living our
current travels in just a few short months.
We call it ‘our’ guide as we don’t believe
in ‘the’ ultimate guide. Everyone has a
different take on planning and travelling
so this is our version.
There were many things that we didn’t
realise we needed to plan, buy or apply
for in advance and ended up making
costly mistakes or missing out.
We’ll arm you with enough tips and
knowledge that you could open your own
travel agency. But we really think you
should go travelling first.

✔ Get set with our travel

inspiration
✔ Choose your ideal destination

✔ Start saving for your trip with

some practical advice
✔ Find and book cheap flights

✔ Plan your travels with our great

resources
✔ Choose the right backpack for
you
✔ Select what to pack and take
with you
✔ Pick a great travel credit card

✔ Stay safe on the road