CHAPTER – 01

INTRODUCTION

1
1.1 Introduction:
A microwave oven (often referred to colloquially simply as a “microwave”) is a kitchen
appliance that heats food by dielectric heating. With the use of microwave radiation to heat
polarized molecules within the food, this is accomplished. This excitation is fairly uniform
within the outer one inch or 25mm to 1.5 inches or 38mm of a dense food item. This leads to
food being more evenly heated throughout (except in thick dense objects) than generally occurs
in other cooking techniques. After World War II, the first commercial microwave oven was
developed by Raytheon from radar technology developed during the war. It was first sold in
1947 and was named 'Radarange'. Later, Raytheon licensed its patents for a home-use microwave
oven that was first introduced by Tappan in 1955. But, for general home use, these units were
still too large and expensive. The countertop microwave oven was first introduced in 1967 by the
Amana Corporation. This had been acquired by Raytheon in 1965. Basic microwave ovens heat
foods quickly and efficiently, but do not brown or bake food, unlike conventional ovens. This
make them unsuitable to achieve certain culinary effects or for cooking certain foods. Additional
kinds of heat sources can be added into combination microwave ovens or to
microwavZpackaging, to produce these other heating effects.
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds
of the cotton plants of the genus Gossypium in the mallow family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost
pure cellulose. Under natural conditions, the cotton bolls will increase the dispersal of the seeds.
The plant is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the
Americas, Africa, Egypt and India. The greatest diversity of wild cotton species is found in
Mexico, followed by Australia and Africa. Cotton was independently domesticated in the Old
and New Worlds.
The fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile. The
use of cotton for fabric is known to date to prehistoric times; fragments of cotton fabric dated to
the fifth millennium BC have been found in the Indus Valley Civilization. Although cultivated
since antiquity, it was the invention of the cotton gin that lowered the cost of production that led
to its widespread use, and it is the most widely used natural fiber cloth in clothing today.
Current estimates for world production are about 25 million tonnes or 110 million bales
annually, accounting for 2.5% of the world's arable land. China is the world's largest producer of
cotton, but most of this is used domestically. The United States has been the largest exporter for
many years. In the United States, cotton is usually measured in bales, which measure
approximately 0.48 cubic meters (17 cubic feet) and weigh 226.8 kilograms (500 pounds)

CVC stands for Chief Value Cotton, and refers to a cotton and polyester blend with a
heavier percentage of cotton.
CVC fabric has a tight, clean weave and excellent color-fastness. It is machine washable, resists
shrinkage and is considerably stronger than pure cotton textiles. There are two types of CVC
fabric. The normal variety has polyester threads shot throughout the weave, and the other has
cotton on the "wrong" side and polyester on the other. The softness of pure cotton against the
skin makes this type of CVC fabric very useful for those with very sensitive skin.
2
CVC fabric is appropriate for medical uniforms and professional attire for all industries. It easily
withstands frequent washing, stain scrubbing and active wear. These qualities make the fabric
perfect for surgical gowns, medical scrubs and chef's clothing. Its excellent color retention also
makes it ideal for these purposes.

Cotton Lycra fabric according to the Cotton Lycra fabric manufacturers is a mix of
two materials, cotton and Lycra. Cotton the natural fiber known and Lycra is an exceptionally
stretchy, synthetic fiber with increased elasticity and is famous under the name 'Spandex
Cotton Lycra fabric according to the Cotton Lycra fabric manufacturers is a mix of two materials,
cotton and Lycra. Cotton the natural fiber known and Lycra is an exceptionally stretchy, synthetic
fiber with increased elasticity and is famous under the name ‘Spandex’. These are generally used in
making of daily wear and sport outfits so as to offer comfort. These fabrics are generally
manufactured by wrapping cotton fibers onto the filaments of spandex, which is a bunch of several
tiny synthetic filaments.

1.2: Objective:
 To learn about Microwave oven
 Dyeing Cotton, Cotton Lycra, CVC fabric in eco-friendly manner
 To color Cotton, Cotton Lycra, CVC fabric at Different temperature.

 To evaluate which Mordanting agent is suitable for dyeing Cotton, Cotton Lycra, CVC
fabric with extracted Reactive Dye

1.3 Project layout plan:

Fabric collection

Micro wave treatment

Pretreatment

Dyeing with reactive dye

Cold wash

Neutralizing

Cold wash

Soaping

Drying

Testing
3
 CHAPTER – 02
LITERATURE REVIEW

4
2.1 Background of the Study
The use of radio and microwave frequency is gaining importance for industrial applications such
as drying, heating and other processing. Microwave has non-contact or localized heating and the
heat is produced within the material. This is the most important advantage of using microwave.
The investigation is in progress to study the influence of microwave radiation on different fibers
for the last few years. In the present investigation the microwave frequency of 2450 MHz is used
to investigate its effect on polyester fibers. This microwave treatment on polyester improves the
percentage of crystallinity, orientation and order factor properties. The wool fiber is also having
the problem of low dye ability due to its scale like surface structure. A number of studies were
carried out in improving the dye ability of wool. The use of high efficient methods to improve
the dye ability of Cotton fibers is the subject of considerable importance. In recent years, micro
wave radiation is applied in some materials for modification of its surface properties to improve
the dye ability. Micro wave radiation is one of the powerful techniques of non contact heating
which is applied on wool and the test results shows an improvement in dye ability and breaking
strength. The microwave radiation concept is having a wide scope in the surface modification of
the textile materials to improve its basic properties. The research works done so far with this
treatment proves the effect the treatment in the polyester fabric. The future works can be done
with this treatment in the fiber, yarn and fabric stage of all the textile materials. In our paper, the
proposal is to apply the microwave radiation on the cotton fabrics to analyse the improvement in
properties as compared to the regular untreated fabrics. The cotton fabrics of regular
specification in the market were selected in the project to improve the fabric properties. There is
one more scope is there in this project that we can analyse improvement of a lot of properties of
5
the fabrics not only dye ability, exhaustion, breaking strength and also color yield of dyeing,
chemical structure, fixation, orientation angle, etc

2.2 About Microwave Oven

A microwave oven (often referred to colloquially simply as a “microwave”) is a kitchen
appliance that heats food by dielectric heating. With the use of microwave radiation to heat
polarized molecules within the food, this is accomplished. This excitation is fairly uniform
within the outer one inch or 25mm to 1.5 inches or 38mm of a dense food item. This leads to
food being more evenly heated throughout (except in thick dense objects) than generally occurs
in other cooking techniques. After World War II, the first commercial microwave oven was
developed by Raytheon from radar technology developed during the war. It was first sold in
1947 and was named 'Radarange'. Later, Raytheon licensed its patents for a home-use microwave
oven that was first introduced by Tappan in 1955. But, for general home use, these units were
still too large and expensive. The countertop microwave oven was first introduced in 1967 by the
Amana Corporation. This had been acquired by Raytheon in 1965. Basic microwave ovens heat
foods quickly and efficiently, but do not brown or bake food, unlike conventional ovens. This
make them unsuitable to achieve certain culinary effects or for cooking certain foods. Additional
kinds of heat sources can be added into combination microwave ovens or to
microwavZpackaging, to produce these other heating effects.

2.3 Microwaves Solution for Improving Woven Fabric:

The influence of three different drying methods, convection, and contact and as a novelty
microwave one, on physical-mechanical parameters of yarn sizing was investigated by
Katovicetal. 4 different types of 100% cotton yarn which had been sized on newly constructed
laboratory sizing device were used to perform the research. In this way the subsequent
parameters: temperature of the sizing agent, sizing velocity, inlet moisture of the warp, tension
and outlet moisture of the warp and drying intensity were continuously controlled and regulated.
Compared to other drying methods the application of microwave drying method for warp sizing
showed to be good or even better in some cases. Microwave heating has been proved to be more
fast, efficient and uniform and easy to Penetrate inside the particle. Cellulose fabric was treated
with microwave irradiation at different condition, to investigate the effect of microwave
irradiation on the physical property and morphological structure of cotton cellulose. The
morphological structures and thermal stabilities of the untreated and treated cellulose were
investigated with differential structures and thermal stabilities of were investigated with
differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray diffraction. The crystallinity and preferred
orientation of the treated cotton cellulose increased. The thermal stability of the treated cellulose
was changed.

2.4 Cotton
6
 Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of
the cotton plants of the genus Gossypium in the mallow family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost
pure cellulose. Under natural conditions, the cotton bolls will increase the dispersal of the seeds.
The plant is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the
Americas, Africa, Egypt and India. The greatest diversity of wild cotton species is found in
Mexico, followed by Australia and Africa. Cotton was independently domesticated in the Old
and New Worlds.
The fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile. The
use of cotton for fabric is known to date to prehistoric times; fragments of cotton fabric dated to
the fifth millennium BC have been found in the Indus Valley Civilization. Although cultivated
since antiquity, it was the invention of the cotton gin that lowered the cost of production that led
to its widespread use, and it is the most widely used natural fiber cloth in clothing today.
Current estimates for world production are about 25 million tonnes or 110 million bales
annually, accounting for 2.5% of the world's arable land. China is the world's largest producer of
cotton, but most of this is used domestically. The United States has been the largest exporter for
many years. In the United States, cotton is usually measured in bales, which measure
approximately 0.48 cubic meters (17 cubic feet) and weigh 226.8 kilograms (500 pounds)

2.4.1 Cotton Fabrics

Cotton is a natural fiber that comes from the seedpod of the cotton plant and is used to make
many fabric types at every price point. The fiber is hollow in the center and, under the
microscope, resembles a twisted ribbon. ... A plain weave produces fabrics like gingham,
percale, chambray and broadcloth.

2.4.2 Chemical composition of Cotton fiber

Table 2.1: Composition of cotton:

Amount
(dry Primary
Component basis)% Main location wall (%)
Cellulose 94 Secondary wall 48
Protein 1.3 Lumen 12
Pectin substance 0.9 Primary wall 12
Oil, fat & wax 0.6 Cuticle 7
Ash 1.2 3
Malic, citric and
other organic acids 0.8 Lumen 14
Total sugar 0.3 Primary wall

7
 Pigment Trace
Others 0.9

2.4.3 Cellulose:
Cellulose content of the raw cotton fiber ranges from 88 to 96 %. Cellulose is a polymer of ß-D-
glucose with a specific configuration shown in figure. The cellobiose, repeating unit of cellulose,
consist of two beta glucose molecules linked together at the 1:4 carbon atoms. Each successive
glucose unit is rotated 1800 around the molecular axis. This gives a linear polymer chain that is
almost flat therefore suitable for fiber formation.

Chemical Structure of Cotton

About 5000 cellobiose units are present in cotton that is degree of polymerization of cotton is
5000.

2.4.4 Protein:
These areas are derived from the protoplasm of living cell. Fiber contains a small percentage of
nitrogen but not all of the nitrogen is present as protein. It is believed that nitrogen-containing
compounds may be associated with the natural coloring matter.

2.4.5 Pectic substance:

Natural cotton contains derivatives of pectic acid. They appear as mainly calcium and methyl
pectates. But free pectic acid and methyl pectate are also present.

2.4.6 Oil, fat and wax:

Oils and fats are esters of glycerol (glycerides) with higher saturated and unsaturated fatty
acids. Waxes are esters of complex monohydric alcohol with fatty acid.

2.4.7 Oils, fats and waxes are all insoluble in water, oils and waxes of cotton
consists of:
 Glycerides which are readily saponifiable oils and fats
 Waxes which are saponifiable with difficulties
 Unsaponifiable oils
 Free fatty acids and
 Traces of soaps

8
2.4.8 Features of Cotton
 Comfortable to wear.
 Natural, cellulosic fiber.
 Made from the cotton boll.
 Absorbs water and “breathes”
 Slow to dry.
 Resists static electricity build-up.
 Wrinkles easily.
 Can withstand heat, detergents, and bleach.

2.4.9 Natural cotton fibre properties

 Cotton is a soft, absorbent and breathable natural fibre, making it the perfect fibre for
clothing and undergarments worn close to the skin
 Cotton keeps the body cool in summer and warm in winter because it is a good conductor
of heat
 Cotton is non-allergenic and, unlike synthetic fibres, cotton fibre is a natural product that
contains no chemicals
 Cotton, due to its unique fibre structure, breathes better and is more comfortable than oil-
based synthetic fabrics
 Cotton is one of the easiest fabrics to dye due to its natural whiteness and high rate of
absorbency
 Australian cotton in particular is perfectly suited to colour application processes as it
offers spinners crisp white lint, low breakages and stoppages, good throughput efficiency
and uniformity of yarn
 Cotton holds up to 27 times its own weight in water and becomes stronger when wet
 Cotton can’t hold an electric charge, eliminating static cling

2.4.10 End Use of Cotton Fabrics

 t is basically used for every type of clothing from jackets to normal shirts.
 In home,it finds its use in bed sheets and curtains.
 Its seed oil is used in food and cosmetics.
 It is also used in coffee filters.
 It's seeds are fed to cattle and crushed to make oil,rubber and plastics.

2.5 CVC Fabric:

9
CVC stands for Chief Value Cotton, and refers to a cotton and polyester blend with a heavier
percentage of cotton.

2.5.1 Theorytical Background of Cotton CVC Fabric:

CVC stands for Chief Value Cotton, and refers to a cotton and polyester blend with a heavier
percentage of cotton.

CVC fabric has a tight, clean weave and excellent color-fastness. It is machine washable, resists
shrinkage and is considerably stronger than pure cotton textiles. There are two types of CVC
fabric. The normal variety has polyester threads shot throughout the weave, and the other has
cotton on the "wrong" side and polyester on the other. The softness of pure cotton against the
skin makes this type of CVC fabric very useful for those with very sensitive skin.

CVC fabric is appropriate for medical uniforms and professional attire for all industries. It easily
withstands frequent washing, stain scrubbing and active wear. These qualities make the fabric
perfect for surgical gowns, medical scrubs and chef's clothing. Its excellent color retention also
makes it ideal for these purposes.

CVC fabric is similar to cotton tetron (TC) fabric, another blended fabric that is popular among
martial arts enthusiasts. Tetron is strong, wrinkle resistant and colorfast and does not become
shiny or threadbare after heavy use.

2.6 Cotton Lycra fabric:

Cotton Lycra fabric according to the Cotton Lycra fabric manufacturers is a mix of
two materials, cotton and Lycra. Cotton the natural fiber known and Lycra is an exceptionally
stretchy, synthetic fiber with increased elasticity and is famous under the name 'Spandex
Cotton Lycra fabric according to the Cotton Lycra fabric manufacturers is a mix of two materials,
cotton and Lycra. Cotton the natural fiber known and Lycra is an exceptionally stretchy, synthetic
fiber with increased elasticity and is famous under the name ‘Spandex’. These are generally used in
making of daily wear and sport outfits so as to offer comfort. These fabrics are generally
manufactured by wrapping cotton fibers onto the filaments of spandex, which is a bunch of several
tiny synthetic filaments.

2.6.1 Advantages of Cotton Lycra fabrics:

Lycra is generally 82% of polyester and 18% of spandex. Here are some of the advantages of the
lycra fabrics coupled along with cotton.

Comfort: According to the Cotton Lycra fabric manufacturers, the outfits made out using this
fabric will have enhanced comfort and breathability similar to that of a cotton outfit.
This is because of the increased presence of cotton in the manufacture of this fabric.

10
 Easy maintenance: Because of the presence of spandex in these fabrics, they do not wrinkle or
stretch easily leading to easy maintenance.

Increased Life: Life of the fabric depends on the appearance and pilling can be the greatest
drawback in this context. A cotton lycra fabric is comparatively free of pilling, where pesky balls
of tangled fiber are seen. This can be attributed to the presence of less spandex, and more cotton in
the fabric, thus offering a better life span. Also the fabric offers an excellent aging and so is used in
daily wear clothes, and is also resistant to sunlight and mildew formation.

2.6.2 Theorytical Background of Cotton Lycra Blended Fabric

Cotton Lycra fabric according to the Cotton Lycra fabric manufacturers is a mix of two materials,
cotton and Lycra. Cotton the natural fiber known and Lycra is an exceptionally stretchy, synthetic
fiber with increased elasticity and is famous under the name ‘Spandex’. These are generally used
in making of daily wear and sport outfits so as to offer comfort. These fabrics are generally
manufactured by wrapping cotton fibers onto the filaments of spandex, which is a bunch of
several tiny synthetic filaments.

2.6.3 Cotton Lycra fabric used for:

Cotton the natural fiber known and Lycra is an exceptionally stretchy, synthetic fiber with
increased elasticity and is famous under the name 'Spandex'. These are generally used in making
of daily wear and sport outfits so as to offer comfort.

2.7 Maintenance of the fabric:

For the enhanced life of the fabric an individual should follow the specifications laid by its
manufacturers. Cotton Lycra fabric manufacturers will therefore provide specifications for the
washing and maintenance of the fabric.
They include:
 The fabric should not be subjected to a hot water wash. This is because the spandex present
in the fabric is heat sensitive and will cause uneven rolling and distortion to the garment
shape.
 In general choose the means of wash that is suitable for the primary fiber in blend like the
dry cleaning, hand washing and more following the care instructions.
 Never use chlorine bleach on a fabric with Lycra. It can be taken as a standout instruction.
 The spandex in the garments do not support hot irons. So it is generally advisable to
prevent them. Also, these fabrics when dried properly will remain wrinkle free, thus
making up to easy and low maintenance.

11
 CHAPTER-03
MATERIALS AND METHODS

12
3.1 Materials:
3.1.1 Substrate:
A plain weave grey Cotton fabric having the following specifications was used
Warp: 115 ends/inch (count 36 N)
Weft: 56 ends/inch (count 36 N)
Fabric Mass: 112 g/m2 (at 60% RH and 20c)

A Twill weave grey Cotton Lycra Blended fabric having the following specifications was used
Warp: 176 ends/inch (count 30 N)
Weft: 64+40D ends/inch (count 30 N)
Fabric Mass: 192 g/m2 (at 60% RH and 20c)

A plain weave grey CVC fabric having the following specifications was used
Warp: 176 ends/inch (count 30 N)
Weft: 64+40D ends/inch (count 30 N)
Fabric Mass: 192 g/m2 (at 60% RH and 20c)

All Fabrics Collected From Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd.

3.2 Bleaching Recipe:

3.2.1Recipe for Cotton Fabrics:

Table 3.1 Types of Chemicals used.

Name of the Chemicals Amount of the Chemicals

NaoH 22g/l
H2O2 13g/l
Wetting Agent (K. Extra) 6g/l
Sequestering Agent (L. 2ud) 2g/l
Stabilizer (P. FCB) 6g/l

3.2.2 Recipe for Cotton Lycra Fabrics:

Table 3.2 Types of Chemicals used.

13
Name of the Chemicals Amount of the Chemicals

NaoH 26g/l
H2O2 10g/l
Wetting Agent (K. Extra) 5g/l
Sequestering Agent (L. 2ud) 1.5g/l
Stabilizer (P. FCB) 5g/l

3.2.3 Recipe for CVC Fabrics

Table 3.3 Types of Chemicals used.

Name of the Chemicals Amount of the Chemicals

NaoH 22g/l
H2O2 10g/l
Wetting Agent (K. Extra) 6g/l
Sequestering Agent (L. 2ud) 2g/l
Stabilizer (P. FCB) 5g/l

3.3 Methods:
3.3.1 Bleaching of grey Cotton fabric:
Bleaching of Cotton fabric was done in a closed vassel 1 hour at 70-80C keeping the material to
liquor ratio at 1:20 with Hydrogen peroxide 22 g/l), sodium hydroxide (13g/l), Wetting Agent
(K. Extra) (6g/l), Sequestering Agent (L. 2ud) 2g/l and Stabilizer (P. FCB) 5g/l The PH of the
bath was washed thoroughly in Cool water, washed in water and dried in Dryer.

3.3.2 Bleaching of grey Cotton Lycra fabric:

Bleaching of Cotton fabric was done in a closed vassel 1 hour at 70-80C keeping the material to
liquor ratio at 1:20 with Hydrogen peroxide 26 g/l), sodium hydroxide (13g/l), Wetting Agent
(K. Extra) (5g/l), Sequestering Agent (L. 2ud) 1.5g/l and Stabilizer (P. FCB) 5g/l The PH of the
bath was washed thoroughly in Cool water, washed in water and dried in Dryer.

3.3.3 Bleaching of grey CVC fabric:

Bleaching of Cotton fabric was done in a closed vassel 1 hour at 70-80C keeping the material
to liquor ratio at 1:20 with Hydrogen peroxide 22 g/l), sodium hydroxide (10g/l), Wetting Agent
(K. Extra) (6g/l), Sequestering Agent (L. 2ud) 2g/l and Stabilizer (P. FCB) 5g/l The PH of the
bath was washed thoroughly in Cool water, washed in water and dried in Dryer.

14
3.4 Dyeing of all Reactive dye
With or without Microwave Pre-Treatment all fabrics were dyed with the extracted dye solution
from Reactive dyes. The recipe of the dyeing are given as following

Recipe:
Fabric weight-20gm
Sequestering Agent-1.0ml/l
Wetting Agent-0.8ml/l
Leveling Agent-0.7ml/l
Salt-30g/l
Soda-10g/l
M: L-1:10
Temperature-600 C
Time-60min

3.5 Different Testing Process:

3.5.1 Measurement of color co-ordinate
Through Data color 650® Spectrophotometer, the color co-ordinate value of all dyed specimen
are measured by following CIE Lab or CIE LCH method.
Where,
L*=Lightness/darkness value
a*=Red/Green axis, +a represents Redder and –a represents Greener
b*=Yellow/Blue axis, +b represents Yellower and -b represents Bluer.
C*=Chroma, +ve represents brighter and -ve represents duller.
h*= Hue.

3.5.2 Measurement of Color strength:

The K/S value was assessed by Spectrophotometer to observe the color strength of different
reactive dyes which works on Kubelka-Munk equation:

Where, R is the decimal fraction of the reflectance of dyed fiber.

K=light absorbed

S=light scattered

k=constant of proportionality

15
C=concentration of colorant

Since K/S factors for each dye at a particular

3.5.3 Evaluation of color fastness to wash:

To measure wash colorfastness properties of the dyed sample. Following parameters are
maintained. As well as for assessing color change (ISO 105 A02) and color staining (ISO105
A03) standard grey scales utilized to obtain ratings of fastness test.

Table 3.4: Color fastness to wash (ISO 105-C10-2006)

Test Temperature Time Steel balls Reagents Liquor
ratio
ISO 105-C10- 40 0C 30 minutes 10 Soap, 5gm/L 50:1
2006 Soda, 2 gm/L

3.5.4 Evaluation of color fastness to water (AATCC Test Method 107):

This test method evaluates the effect of water on fastness properties of dyed, printed or otherwise
colored textile materials.
 At first Cut each sample at 10cm x 4cm along the length or width direction.

 Then specimen is paired with a multi-fiber fabric.

 After that the combined specimen is soaked into di-ionized water for half an hour.
 All the wet sample then placed in a perspireometer in an oven to simulate exposure for 3
hrs.
 Lastly color change of the sample and staining of the multi-fiber strip is evaluated.

3.5.5 Assessment of color fastness to wet and dry rubbing (ISO 105×12):
Dyed samples are mounted on the crock meter and finger of the crock meter covered with a
desized 5× 5 crocking cloth. The specimen rubbed with the finger of the meter at 10 turns within
10 seconds. But for wet rubbing test this process is followed after soaking the fabric at 100%
pickup.

3.5.6 Determination of perspiration fastness (ISO 105 B02):

Sample size: (10×4) cm
Equipment required:
i) Perspiration meter with acrylic glass plates
ii) Perspiration solution (both alkaline & acidic)
iii) Weight ISO=5 kg, AATCC=3.63 kg
iv) Oven

Table 3.5: Perspiration Solution:

Acid Alkali

16
1. L-Histidine mono-hydro 1. L-Histidine mono-hydro chloride-
chloride- 0.5 g/l 0.5 g/l
2. Sodium Chloride- 5 g/l 2. Sodium Chloride- 5 g/l
3. Sodium dihydrogen phosphate 3. Di-Sodium hydrogen phosphate
di hydrate- 2.2 g/l anhydrous purified- 2.5 g/l
4. M: L - 1:50 4. M: L - 1:50
pH-5.5 pH- 8.

Process:
i. At first sewing the sample with a cotton fabric on one side and a multi-fiber fabric on the other
side.
ii. Then it is put in the Perspiration solution (both alkaline & acidic) bucket and keep it there for
20 minutes.
iii. Then without squeezing it is placed between the acrylic glass plates and the Perspiration
meter is put into a oven keeping it there for 4 hours at (37 ±2) ⁰C.

3.5.7 Work Instruction for Determination of pH of fabric (BS EN ISO

3071)

3.5.7.1 Object:
This international standard specifies a method for determining the pH of the aqueous extract of
textile electronically at room temperature by means of glass electrode.

Scope
The method is applicable to all textiles in any form.

3.5.7.2 Procedure

 Take three samples representative of the bulk of the textile material to be tested.
 Cut the tested sample into piece having approximately 5mm sizes or of such sizes as to
allow the test samples to wet out rapidly.
 To avoid contamination, handle the material as little as possible. Take (2.00+0.05) gm of
cutted sample
 Place each test sample and 100 ml of extracting solution. Agitate the flask for a short
period by hand to ensure that the textile material is properly wetted out then shake it
mechanically for 2hours+5min.
 Immerse the electrode several times in the same solution (Water or KCl Solution) used
to prepare the extract until the indicated pH value stabilizes.

17
 Decant the first extract into a beaker, immediately immerse the electrode to a depth at
least 10 mm and stir gently with a rod until the pH-values stabilizes (Do not record the
pH value of this solution)
 Decant the second extract into another beaker, immediately immerse the electrode
without washing, in the beaker to a depth of at least 10 mm and allow standing without
stirring until the pH value stabilized. Record this value.
 Decant the third extract into another beaker, immediately immerse the electrode, without
washing in the beaker to a depth of at least 10 mm and allow to stand without stirring
until the pH value stabilizes. Record this value.
 Record the pH-values of the second and third extracts as the first and second
measurements.
 Take mean reading of second and third measurement and report accordingly.

18
 CHAPTER – 04
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS

19
4.1 Fabric Weight

Table 4.1 Fabric weight of microwave test

Fabric Number Before Microwave After Microwave
Weight(gm) Weight(gm)
Sample 1(Cotton) 22.90
Sample 2 20.03
Sample 3 20.93
Sample 4 19.92
Sample 5 21.14
Sample 6 21.15
Sample 7 24.55
Sample 1(Cotton Lycra) 20.43
Sample 2 20.33
Sample 3 20.44
Sample 4 20.10
Sample 5 23.67
Sample 6 22.56
Sample 7 24.55
Sample 1 (CVC) 21.01
Sample 2 20.15
Sample 3 20.07
Sample 4 19.50
Sample 5 20.42
Sample 6 20.90
Sample 7 21.92

20
4.2 Color co-ordinate value:

Table 4.2 Color co-ordinate value of all sample D65

Dyed sample with variation of L a b c H

Microwave Treatment
Sample-01 (Cotton) 75.43 -7.93 -9.89 12.67 231.29
Sample-02 71.77 -8.08 -11.06 13.69 233.86
Sample-03 70.83 -8.59 -11.38 14.26 232.96
Sample-04 72.09 -8.58 -10.92 13.89 231.84
Sample-05 71.06 -8.24 -11.41 14.08 234.16
Sample-06 75.40 -7.74 -9.53 12.27 230.93
Sample-07 72.12 -8.63 -11.09 14.05 232.11
Sample-01 (Cotton Lycra) 79.53 22.89 -4.82 23.39 348.10
Sample-02 78.51 24.51 -5.29 25.09 347.82
Sample-03 79.56 23.86 -5.41 24.47 347.22
Sample-04 79.82 23.18 -4.68 23.65 348.59
Sample-05 79.64 22.20 -5.13 22.79 346.98
Sample-06 81.56 20.73 -4.75 21.27 347.10
Sample-07 79.10 24.84 -5.70 25.48 347.08
Sample-01 (CVC) 68.15 -9.84 -13.44 16.66 233.80
Sample-02 60.32 -10.46 -14.94 18.24 235.01
Sample-03 65.80 -10.01 -13.86 17.09 234.17
Sample-04 64.74 -10.05 -14.00 17.24 234.32
Sample-05 65.08 -10.10 -14.12 17.37 234.42
Sample-06 69.62 -9.34 -12.70 15.77 233.68
Sample-07 59.73 -10.56 -15.15 18.46 235.11

Table 4.3 Color co-ordinate value of all sample A-10

Dyed sample with variation of L a b c H

Microwave Treatment
Sample-01 (Cotton) 73.81 -8.46 -12.78 15.33 236.49
Sample-02 70.03 -8.86 -14.11 16.66 237.87
21
Sample-03 69.01 -9.49 -14.57 17.39 236.92
Sample-04 70.31 -9.41 -14.06 16.92 236.23
Sample-05 69.27 -9.05 -14.54 17.13 238.09
Sample-06 73.83 -8.17 -12.34 14.80 236.51
Sample-07 70.32 -9.50 -14.25 17.13 236.31
Sample-01 (Cotton Lycra) 81.87 22.28 0.19 22.28 0.49
Sample-02 81.01 23.82 0.09 23.82 0.22
Sample-03 81.97 23.08 -0.23 23.08 359.43
Sample-04 82.20 22.57 0.41 22.58 1.05
Sample-05 81.87 21.65 -0.35 21.65 359.06
Sample-06 83.64 20.18 -0.33 20.18 359.07
Sample-07 81.61 24.05 -0.30 24.05 359.28
Sample-01 (CVC) 66.00 -11.23 -17.12 20.47 236.75
Sample-02 57.96 -12.23 -18.96 22.57 237.18
Sample-03 63.60 -11.45 -17.63 21.03 236.99
Sample-04 62.52 -11.57 -17.80 21.23 236.98
Sample-05 62.84 -11.64 -17.95 21.40 237.04
Sample-06 67.59 -10.54 -16.18 19.31 236.93
Sample-07 57.34 -12.39 -19.22 22.86 237.19

22
4.3 Evaluation of color strength
As color strength depends on reflectance, so more the value of reflectance defers higher value of
color strength. As a result, dark sample has low color strength and light shade of fabric has better
K/S value. In this regards, fabric Reactive dyed color strength since it yields dark color rather
than other temperature.

Table 4.4 Color strength of dyed sample with or without Microwave Treatment.
Dyed sample with or without variation of Color strength
Microwave Treatment (K/S) value
Sample-01 (Cotton) 68.75

Sample-02 71.01

Sample-03 67.85

Sample-04 66.45

Sample-05 69.65

Sample-06 70.10

Sample-07 63.10

Sample-01 (Cotton Lycra) 56.30

Sample-02 52.28

Sample-03 54.25

Sample-04 55.25

Sample-05 56.39

Sample-06 58.21

Sample-07 55.45

Sample-01 (CVC) 71.01

Sample-02 70.20

Sample-03 69.65

Sample-04 68.95

Sample-05 70.35

Sample-06 72.01

23
Sample-07 69.45

24
4.4 Color fastness to Wash
Fabric dyeing with Reactive dyes yield outstanding results for all the samples treating with or
without temperature. The rating of colorfastness to wash is 3-5 for both color change and color
staining.
Table 4.5 Color fastness to wash test result of sample dyed with or without temperature.

Color Color Staining

Dyed sample with Chan
variation of ge
Di Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool
Microwave
Acetate
Treatment
Sample-01 (Cotton) 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-02 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-03 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-04 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-05 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-06 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-07 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-01 (Cotton 3 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4
Lycra)
Sample-02 3 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4
Sample-03 3 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4
Sample-04 3 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4
Sample-05 3 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4
Sample-06 3 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4
Sample-07 3 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4
Sample-01 (CVC) 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Sample-02 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-03 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-04 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Sample-05 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Sample-06 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-07 4 4 4 4 4 4 4

4.5 Color fastness to Water

25
Fabric dyeing with Reactive dyes yield outstanding results for all the samples treating with or
without temperature. The rating of colorfastness to water is 4-4/5 for both color change and color
staining.

Table 4.6 Color fastness to water test result of sample dyed with or without Microwave
Treatment.

Color Color Staining

Dyed sample Change
with variation
Di Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool
of Microwave
Acetate
Treatment
Sample-01 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
(Cotton)
Sample-02 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-03 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-04 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-05 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-06 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-07 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-01 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
(Cotton
Lycra)
Sample-02 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-03 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-04 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-05 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-06 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-07 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-01 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
(CVC)
Sample-02 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-03 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-04 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-05 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-06 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-07 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5

4.6 Color fastness to rubbing

26
All the dyed fabric sample provide good (4) dry rubbing fastness and (4/5) wet rubbing

Table 4.7 Color fastness to rubbing test result of sample dyed with or without Microwave
Treatment.
Dyed sample with variation of Dry rubbing Wet rubbing
Microwave Treatment
Sample-01 (Cotton) 4/5 4

Sample-02 4/5 4

Sample-03 4 2-3

Sample-04 4/5 4

Sample-05 4/5 4

Sample-06 4/5 4

Sample-07 4/5 4

Sample-01 (Cotton Lycra) 4/5 4

Sample-02 4/5 4

Sample-03 4/5 4

Sample-04 4/5 4

Sample-05 4/5 4

Sample-06 4/5 4

Sample-07 4/5 4

Sample-01 (CVC) 4/5 4

Sample-02 4/5 4

Sample-03 4/5 4

Sample-04 4/5 4

Sample-05 4/5 4

Sample-06 4/5 4

Sample-07 4/5 4

27
4.7 Color fastness to perspiration
Acid perspiration
Fabric dyeing with Reactive dyes yield outstanding results for all the samples treating with or
without temperature. The rating of colorfastness to Acid perspiration is (4- 4/5) for both color
change and color staining.

Table 4.8 Color fastness to acid perspiration test result of sample dyed with or without
Microwave Treatment.
Dyed sample Color Color Staining
with variation Change
of Microwave
Di Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool
Treatment Acetate

Sample-01 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5

(Cotton)
Sample-02 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-03 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-04 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-05 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-06 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-07 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-01 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
(Cotton
Lycra)
Sample-02 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Sample-03 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Sample-04 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Sample-05 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Sample-06 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Sample-07 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Sample-01 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
(CVC)
Sample-02 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-03 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-04 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-05 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-06 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-07 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5

28
Alkali perspiration
Fabric dyeing with Reactive dyes yield outstanding results for all the samples treating with or
without temperature. The rating of colorfastness to Alkali perspiration is (4- 4/5) for both color
change and color staining.

Table 4.9 Color fastness to alkali perspiration test result of sample dyed with or without
Microwave Treatment.

Color Color Staining

Dyed sample Change
with variation
Di Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool
of Microwave
Acetate
Treatment
Sample-01 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
(Cotton)
Sample-02 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-03 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-04 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-05 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-06 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-07 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-01 4 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5
(Cotton
Lycra)
Sample-02 4 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5
Sample-03 4 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5
Sample-04 4 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5
Sample-05 4 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5
Sample-06 4 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5
Sample-07 4 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/5
Sample-01 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
(CVC)
Sample-02 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-03 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-04 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-05 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-06 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Sample-07 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
4 4 4 4 4 4 4

4.8 Fabrics PH
29
Fabric dyeing with Reactive dyes yield outstanding results for all the samples treating with or
without Microwave Treatment. The rating of PH is as bellow:

Table 4.10 Fabrics PH test result of sample dyed with or without Microwave Treatment.

Dyed sample with or without variation of Fabrics PH

Microwave Treatment
Sample-01 (Cotton) 6.71

Sample-02 6.68

Sample-03 6.65

Sample-04 6.75

Sample-05 6.81

Sample-06 6.78

Sample-07 6.74

Sample-01 (Cotton Lycra) 6.23

Sample-02 6.35

Sample-03 6.33

Sample-04 6.29

Sample-05 6.38

Sample-06 6.42

Sample-07 6.35

Sample-01 (CVC) 6.22

Sample-02 6.29

Sample-03 6.31

Sample-04 6.45

Sample-05 6.24

Sample-06 6.21

Sample-07 6.20

4.9 Fabrics Tear Strength

30
Fabric dyeing with Reactive dyes yield outstanding results for all the samples treating with or
without Microwave Treatment. The actual tear strength is as bellow:

Table 4.11 Fabrics Tear Strength test result of sample dyed with or without Microwave
Treatment.

Dyed sample with variation of Warp Tear Weft Tear

Microwave Treatment Strength (N) Strength (N)
Sample-01 (Cotton) 11.92 10.90

Sample-02 12.69 11.46

Sample-03 12.26 10.46

Sample-04 11.46 10.66

Sample-05 11.26 10.46

Sample-06 10.33 8.84

Sample-07 11.77 11.20

Sample-01 (Cotton Lycra) 20.70 17.42

Sample-02 18.21 14.69

Sample-03 18.20 16.69

Sample-04 19.01 17.28

Sample-05 17.69 14.20

Sample-06 17.64 14.26

Sample-07 17.10 14.58

Sample-01 (CVC) 7.51 6.58

Sample-02 6.99 6.20

Sample-03 7.28 6.20

Sample-04 6.53 5.28

Sample-05 6.76 6.10

Sample-06 6.33 5.55

Sample-07 6.90 7.23

4.10 Column Test
31
Fabric dyeing with Reactive dyes yield outstanding results for all the samples treating with or
without Microwave Treatment. The actual column test result before and after Microwave
Treatment (CM) is as bellow:
Table 4.12 Fabrics column test result before and after Microwave Treatment.
Dyed sample with variation of Before After Microwave
Microwave Treatment Microwave Treatment (CM)
Treatment (CM)
Sample-01 (Cotton) 3.00 4.0

Sample-02 3.00 3.5

Sample-03 3.00 4.0

Sample-04 3.00 4.0

Sample-05 3.00 4.25

Sample-06 3.00 4.5

Sample-07 3.00 4.2

Sample-01 (Cotton Lycra) 3.40 5.55

Sample-02 3.40 5.87

Sample-03 3.40 5.53

Sample-04 3.40 5.5

Sample-05 3.40 5.5

Sample-06 3.40 5.48

Sample-07 3.40 5.16

Sample-01 (CVC) 3.00 4.7

Sample-02 3.00 4.6

Sample-03 3.00 4.9

Sample-04 3.00 4.8

Sample-05 3.00 5.1

Sample-06 3.00 4.9

Sample-07 3.00 5.1

32
33
CHAPTER-05
CONCLUSION

34
5.1Conclusion
This empirical study shows the prominent dyeing effects along with their dyeing properties.
Both the visual and spectrophotometric results reveal that fabric dyed with extracted
eucalyptus leaves gives bright shade when it pre-mordanted by ferrous sulphate. Even
colorfastness properties of different dyed fabric show erratic results of moderate to good
grading range but overall, in respect of all colorfastness properties fabric dyed without
mordant and pre-mordanted with ferrous sulphate yield the better results of fastness
properties.

35
References

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36
Annex

37
38