Coffee Chemistry: Coffee Aroma

Coffee aroma is responsible for all coffee flavor attributes other than the mouth feel and sweet,
salt, bitter, and sour taste attributes that are perceived by the tongue. Therefore, it might be said
that coffee aroma is the most important attribute to specialty coffee. Even instant coffee has the
components responsible for stimulation of our taste buds. The difference, however, is that instant
coffee lacks most of the aromatic volatile compounds causing a dramatic decrease in the overall
coffee flavor.

Perception of Coffee Aroma

Coffee aroma is perceived by two different mechanisms. It can either be sensed nasally via
smelling the coffee through the nose or retro nasally. Retro nasal perception occurs when the
coffee is either present in the mouth or has been swallowed and aromatic volatile compounds
drift upward into the nasal passage.

The number of aromatic compounds found in coffee increases every year. Today the number is
well over 800, and as our analytical methods become more precise, more will be uncovered. Yet,
the perception of coffee aroma is dependent upon both the concentration of the compound and its
odor threshold. With that said, understanding coffee aroma is not as difficult as understanding
how over 800 coffee elements interact with the olfactory epithelium. It is probable that a
relatively small group of compounds that share both a high concentration and a low odor
threshold make up the fragrance we know as coffee aroma. This article will discuss the recent
research that has narrowed in on these aroma impact compounds.

Illy listed the following chemical processes that affect the development of volatile compounds in
coffee (112):
1) Maillard or non-enzymatic browning reaction between nitrogen containing substances, amino
acids, proteins, as well as trigonelline, serotonins, and carbohydrates, hydroxyl-acids and phenols
on the other.
2) Strecker degradation.
3) Degradation of individual amino acids, particularly, sulfur amino acids, hydroxyl amino acids,
and proline.
4) Degradation of trigonelline.
5) Degradation of sugar.
6) Degradation of phenolic acids, particularly the quinic acid moiety.
7) Minor lipid degradation.
8) Interaction between intermediate decomposition products.

In a review article published by Clarke, he asserts that various research groups have identified
150 aliphatic compounds including 56 carbonyl compounds and 9 sulfur containing compounds;
20 alicyclic compounds, including 10 ketones; 60 aromatic benzenoid compounds, including 16
phenols; 300 heterocyclic compounds, including 74 furans, 10 hydro furans, 37 pyrroles, 9
pyridines, 2 quinolines, 70 pyrazines, 10 quinoxalines, 3 indoles, 23 thiophens, 3 thiophenones,
28 thiazoles, and 28 oxazoles (34).
Table 1 shows the compounds that are likely to be the most influential in coffee aroma This data
was compiled from the work of both Grosch and Blank and is by no means exhaustive. It should
be noted that the OAV alone does not dictate which compounds are the most important
compounds present in coffee, but rather suggests compounds that are likely to have a large
impact on the aroma of coffee. The furans are found to be the most predominant group of
compounds amongst the coffee aromatics. They typically have caramel-like odors since they
result from the pyrolysis of sugars. Shibamoto claims that furans produce key aroma notes when
secondary reactions take place with sulfur containing compounds (77).

Table 1. Important aromatic compounds in coffee as summarized by Grosch.

Click on compound name for more information.
Conc. Coffee Aroma
Volatile1 1 OAV1
(mg/L) Description2
(E)-ß-Damascenone 1.95x10-1 2.60x105 honey-like, fruity

2-Furfurylthiol 1.08 1.10x105 roasty (coffee)

3-Mercapto- 3- 1.30x10-1 3.70x104 catty, roasty

methylbutylformate
3-Methyl-2-buten-1- 8.20x10-3 2.70x104 amine-like
thiol
2-Isobutyl-3- 8.30x10-2 1.70x104 earthy
methoxypyrazine
5-Ethyl-4-hydroxy- 1.73x101 1.50x104
2-methyl-3(2H)-
furanone
Guaiacol 4.20 1.10x104 phenolic, spicy
2,3-Butanedione 5.08x101 3.40x103 buttery
(diacetyl)
4-Vinylguaiacol 6.48x101 3.20x103 spicy
2,3-Pentanedione 3.96x101 1.30x103 buttery

Methional 2.40x10-1 1.20x103 potato-like, sweet

2-Isopropyl-3- 3.30x10-3 8.30x102 earthy, roasty
methoxypyrazine
Vanillin 4.80 1.90x102 vanilla
4-Hydroxy-2,5- 1.09x102 1.70x103 caramel-like
dimethyl- 3(2H)-
furanone (Furaneol)
2-Ethyl-3,5- 3.30x10-1 1.70x102 earthy, roasty
dimethylpyrazine
 2,3-Diethyl-5- 9.50x10-2 1.00x102 earthy, roasty
methylpyrazine
3-Hydroxy-4,5- 1.47 7.50x101 seasoning-like
dimethyl- 2(5H)-
furanone (Sotolon)
4-Ethylguaiacol 1.63 3.00x101 spicy
5-Ethyl-3-hydroxy- 1.60x10-1 2.00x101 seasoning-like
4-methyl- 2(5H)-
furanone (Abhexon)
Table References
1) Grosch, 151.
2) Blank et al., 124.

The pyrazines are the second most abundant class of aromatic compounds and contribute to the
roasted, walnut, cereal, cracker, or toast-like flavors in coffee. Along with thiazoles, the
pyrazines have the lowest odor threshold and therefore significantly contribute to the coffee
aroma. Next, the pyrroles are responsible for some of the sweet, caramel-like, and mushroom-
like aromas in coffee. Conversely, the thiophens are known to have a meaty aroma and are
thought to be produced from Maillard reactions between sulfur containing amino acids and
sugars. Thiazoles have an even smaller presence in the overall aroma and are said to be formed
via sugar degradation.

Definitions:
Odor threshold - minimum detectable quantity via nasal perception.
Taste threshold - minimum detectable quantity via retronasal perception.
Odor Activity Value (OAV) - ratio of the concentration of a molecule to its odor threshold.
Flavor dilution factor - when high signifies a key odorant.

Sources
Clarke, R. J. The Flavour of Coffee. In Dev. Food Science. 3 B. 1986. 1-47.
Blank, I.; Sen, A.; and Grosch, W. 14th ASIC Colloq. San Francisco. 1991. 117-129.
Grosch, W. 16th ASIC Colloq. Kyoto. 1995. 147-156.
Illy, A. and Viani, Rinantonio. Espresso Coffee: The Chemistry of Quality.

Coffee Body

Body is the weight of the coffee that can best be sensed by allowing the coffee to rest on the
tongue and by rubbing the tongue against the roof of the mouth. Coffee body ranges from thin,
to light, to heavy and is a result of the fat content. The viscosity, however, results from proteins
and fibers in the brew (Lingle, 4). Medium and dark coffee roast styles will have a heavier body
than lighter roasted coffees, but conversely will have less acidity.
 Coffee Cupping

Cupping is one of the coffee tasting techniques used by cuppers to evaluate coffee aroma and the
flavor profile of a coffee. To understand the minor differences between coffee growing regions,
it is important to taste coffee from around the world side-by-side. Cupping is also used to
evaluate a defective coffee or to create coffee blends.

Tasting Coffee

Coffee Table Preparation

In a coffee cupping session, the table is usually set up with 6 to 10 cups per coffee. These are
fashioned in a triangular manner. At the top of this triangle you should place a sample of the
roasted coffee and a sample of the green coffee. In the center of the table place a cup of room
temperature water and an empty cup containing the cupping spoons. Cover both the green
sample and roasted sample until the cupping session is over and the coffee aroma, fragrance, and
flavor profile have been documented. After this time, the coffee samples could be uncovered and
additional comments can be written based on appearance. This method will help reduce the
common "eye cupping" technique.

Coffee Sample Preparation

To prepare the coffee samples, place 2 tablespoons of freshly roasted and freshly ground coffee
in a 6 oz cup. Ideally one should use 55g of coffee per liter of water. The grind should be
between a French press size and a drip coffee size. The coffee should be roasted light (Agtron
65). In the industry we often stop the roast about 30 seconds into the first crack long before the
start of the second crack. This allows us to fully evaluate the coffee for defects and for the
sweetness and aroma that are burned off at darker roasts. The roast should be similar for all of
the coffees evaluated. During an important coffee cupping session the roast similarity can be
verified visually by grinding a portion of each sample and lining the coffee samples up next to
each other on a black sheet of paper.

Coffee Fragrance and Aroma Analysis

While the filtered water is boiling, smell the coffee grounds and write down your observations.
The smell of the grounds (before water is added) is referred to as the fragrance.

Then add hot water--just off the boil--to each cup. At this time you should also add hot water to
the cup containing the spoons so that the spoons stay at the same temperature as the cups
containing the coffee. Smell each cup without disturbing it and write down your initial
observations of the coffee aroma.

After 1-2 minutes, break the crust of the coffee using one of the preheated spoons. Put your nose
directly over the cup and push the coffee down. This is the most potent burst of aroma you will
have during cupping and is the best time to evaluate the coffee aroma. As you break the crust stir
the cup a little to make sure all of the coffee is covered in water and to help the coffee sink to the
bottom of the cup. Add any further description of the aroma to the description you wrote before
breaking the crust.

Rinse the spoon in hot water and move to the next sample. After evaluating the aroma of all of
the samples, scoop out any grounds that continue to float. Due to the high density of the lightly
roasted coffee most of the grounds will sink.

Coffee Flavor Analysis

After the coffee has cooled sufficiently take some coffee into the spoon and slurp the coffee
strongly to aspirate it over the entire tongue. It is important to aspirate strongly since you are
trying to cover the entire tongue evenly. Aspirating strongly will also cause tiny droplets of
coffee to be distributed into the throat and into the nasal passage. The nose can act as another
powerful tasting tool. Most of the flavor observed in a coffee is a result of aromatic compounds
present in the coffee. This effect can be demonstrated by plugging your nose while drinking
coffee. While the nasal passage is blocked, the coffee will likely taste similar to instant coffee
due to its lack of aroma. When the nasal passage is opened, a full rainbow of flavors will
immediately become evident.

After each coffee taste test, write down your observations of coffee taste, acidity, aftertaste, and
body. Move to the next cup and try to compare the different cups. As the coffee in each cup
cools, it is often possible to detect new flavors. Therefore, it is important to cup a coffee when it
is both warm and when it has cooled to just above room temperature. The best coffees will have
positive characteristics at both ranges of temperature.

If you are cupping more than a couple cups of coffee, it is advisable to spit out the coffee after
evaluation. When cupping several coffees it is possible to have too much caffeine, which can
adversely alter your cupping ability.

Coffee Cupping Conclusions

The key to cupping coffee is practice

and humility. The best cuppers I know
are modest and always eager to learn
more. I have served on cupping juries
with some of the best in the world and
we do not always agree. The beauty is
that we agree to disagree while
respecting and trying to identify the
characteristics that other people find.

Do not be intimidated by people that try

to impress you with some abstract
description of a coffee. This is more of a
romantic tribute to a coffee rather than a reality. Cupping coffee should be fun and interesting,
but not a contest of who is more articulate. On the other hand, your description should be more
substantial than a reiteration of a textbook definition of a coffee.

Despite the strict, scientific-like protocol to coffee cupping, the method followed in the industry
is quite varied and almost every good cupper has his or her own permutation. Cup under
conditions you like, but try to stay close to the standards in case you need to cup with other
people.

The secret to becoming a good coffee cupper is simple: trust yourself by practicing regularly and
be humble enough to continue to learn from others.