Professional Documents
Culture Documents
1
SECOND EDITION First printing October, 1992; Second printing May, 1993; Third printing March, 1994;
Fourth printing February, 1995; Fifth printing July, 1995; Sixth printing February, 1996; Seventh printing
August, 1997; Eighth printing September, 1998; Ninth printing February, 2000; Tenth printing June, 2001;
Eleventh printing April, 2004; Twelfth printing September, 2004; Thirteenth printing April, 2005; Fourteenth
printing April, 2006; Fifteenth printing March, 2007; Sixteenth printing May, 2008; Seventeenth printing
May, 2009; Eighteenth printing, September, 2010; Nineteenth Printing, May 2012.
ISBN-10: 0-87288-510-0
ISBN-13: 978-0-87288-510-3
Please Note: The designations “National Electrical Code,” “NE Code,” and “NEC,” where used in this book
refer to the National Electrical Code ®, which is a registered trademark of the National Fire Protection As-
sociation.
2 Table of Contents
Table of Contents
About the Author.......................................................................................................... 3
Introduction.................................................................................................................. 7
Summary.................................................................................................................... 67
About the Author 3
The Great Depression of the 1930’s made it no “bed of roses” to sell a new
untried raceway. Almost every branch of the electrical industry tried to dis-
courage the acceptance of thin wall conduit.
• Electricians cussed it, because it was such a problem to bend. Only hickey-
type tools were available and they kinked the EMT too easily.
• The NE Code restricted the use of EMT to exposed dry locations and to circuits of 300 volts, or less.
With such a bleak outlook and such code restrictions, those six young salesmen barnstormed from coast
to coast. The odds against EMT were overwhelming. “At times we wondered,” Jack says, “if it would ever
become an accepted raceway.”
Then in the early 30’s a wheel-type EMT bender (hand portable type) with a fixed radius appeared. It did an
acceptable job, but it was an awkward tool with four parts and a floppy hook.
The need for a better bender was obvious. Jack designed and patented the first one-piece, solid hook Benfield
bender for 1/2”, 3/4” and 1” EMT.
Jack visited electrical superintendents on construction jobs, all over the free world, and saw a great need for
precision in conduit bending. That need triggered Jack into adding such helpful features as painted symbols,
the star-point, the arrow, the rim notch, the degree scale, the Zip-Guide for handles and a simple formula for
offsets and saddles.
Jack Benfield wrote the first pocket instruction booklet back in the early 1930’s. Since then over 2 million
copies of his instruction booklets have been published. Now, with the advent of the VCR, Jack has personally
produced a one-hour VHS video tape. He describes it as his “full dress” bending demonstration and calls it
“The Benfield Bending Technique.”
This revised “Benfield Conduit Bending Manual” and VHS video tape are perfect companions for teaching
proper bending techniques. Apprentice electricians watch the video then they use the manual as a textbook to
“zero-in” on any bothersome bending problem.
4 About the Author
Electrical superintendents, training directors and journeymen electricians, by the thousands, have endorsed
Jack’s simple, non-technical method for making conduit bends that fit.
“After 60 years,” Jack says, “I still love to watch a good conduit man do his stuff. It’s great to see them make
bends that drop into place and fit like a glove. I’ve noticed that even old-time electrical journeymen get a quiet
thrill when a tough-to-make bend fits as though it had been molded in place."
Preface to the First Edition 5
Preface to the
First Edition
As I write these instructions my constant concern can be expressed in these three words ... KEEP IT SIM-
PLE! Readers will be happy to discover there is not a technical word in this manual. The Benfield method
simply uses addition, subtraction and multiplication. Basic elementary arithmetic does it!
Some conduit bending instruction books resort to trigonometry. Such high math over-complicates the
simple business of making conduit bends that fit. I avoid such needless terms as sines-cosines-secants-cose-
cants-tangents developed lengths, etc.
About all the electrician needs to know is where the end of his conduit stub-up will be, how far to space his
bends apart to make true offsets and saddles, and where the back of his bends will lay.
To be certain that these instructions are crystal clear I have used plain language with simple formulas,
tables and diagrams.
The Benfield technique works with ANY make of bender that may be found on ANY job. It works with
hand-hickeys, electrically powered hydraulic tools and/or mechanically powered benders. These formulas
work even if bends are made in the crotch of a tree or a hole in a wood block.
A big thank you from the author goes to the many electricians who helped him along the way.
Their valuable suggestions, their know-how, their on-the-job hints and bending tips have become the very
substance of this manual. Those electricians have made a valuable contribution to the art of making conduit
bends that fit!
Preface to the
Second Edition
New chapters...new clarity...new material.
Chapters in this second edition have been clarified and rearranged...the “how-to-do-it” chapters are now in
sequence and first in the manual (Chapters 1 through 11).
Chapter 13: Mechanically Powered Ratchet Benders and Hydraulic or Electrically Powered Benders. A
new multiplier is revealed for closer coupled “3-bend” saddles using a 60° center bend (see Chapter 5).
Three new sketches illustrate conduit runs “over-the-top” (see Chapter 8). The wordage throughout this
second edition is crisp, clear, and concise.
Introduction
Conduit Bends Save Money!
Some bending instruction manuals contain formulas and diagrams so steeped in high math that a math-
ematics professor might well suffer a brain convulsion. Because of this “overkill,” a mysterious aura of fear
has clouded the very simple business of bending a piece of conduit.
Making bends that fit right the first time is easy if one follows a few simple rules. Believing that simplicity is
paramount, the author has used only basic arithmetic in revealing the bending “know-how” he has accumu-
lated from a lifetime of personal contact with electricians all over the free world.
There isn’t a technical word in this book. In plain language, it explains how to make bends that fit. The Ben-
field technique works no matter what brand of bender is found on the job.
Bending 90° Stub Lengths 9
Chapter 1
Bending 90°
Stub Lengths
It's a pleasure to watch a journeyman electrician who really knows how to bend conduit. A few quick measure-
ments, a mark here and there plus a little muscle power transforms ten foot lengths of conduit into a series of
sweeps, offsets, saddles, and 90° bends that look like they were molded in place.
Making professional precision conduit bends is not difficult. Simply follow the easy-to-use rules set forth in this
manual. Here are some tips on bending right angle stub lengths...such bends are called "stub ups" by the trade.
Example Three: Suppose you want a 20" stub-up in 3/4" EMT. The 6" digit on the rule should be opposite the
end of the EMT, the arrow on the bender should be opposite the 20"digit on the rule.
This method is fast and precise, and marking the conduit is eliminated...a good eye for alignment does the trick
because wherever the arrow on the bender lays in relation to the folding rule determines the height of the stub-up.
For best results, bend on the floor. Your accuracy will be as good as your ability to "eye-ball" that imaginary
plumb line. This method is usually accurate to plus or minus 1/4 inch...use Method 3 when speed is paramount.
Bending 90° Stub Lengths 11
& Answers
Questions
Q Should 90° bends in small sizes of conduit (1/2" EMT, 3/4" EMT, 1/2" rigid or IMC) be made on the
floor or with tool in the air?
Q Ifgoodanother bend has already been made in a length of conduit the pipe may not lay firm and flat for a
floor bend ... what then?
A Make the second bend on a slightly raised platform (a 4" x 4" will usually do) or bend at the edge of a
loading dock, stairwell, etc. This allows firm, solid footing because the first bend hangs in free air and
the portion to be bent lays flat on the floor.
Note: Avoid longer handles than these. Longer handles are cumbersome to work with and they invite too
much pull on the handle. Remember, foot pressure is of paramount importance and avoid pulling the handle
too much.
12 Chapter 1
Q What is best position or stance when bending over the tool, i.e., with tool in air?
A Keep arm pressure close to the tool (conduit under armpit helps). Allow the tool assembly to rock for-
ward as you complete the bend.
All About Offsets 13
Chapter 2
All about
Offsets
This chapter reveals a simple technique for making offsets in conduit or EMT with speed and precision. Speed
is important on any job, but speed coupled with precision pays a triple dividend...saves time, saves waste, makes
for a quality job. Conduit bends should fit right the first time. Bad bends double the cost, twice the labor, twice the
conduit. By following these simple rules you will wipe out waste. The technique works for any fixed radius
bender, hand type, mechanical ratchet type, hydraulic or electrically powered benders.
As shown in Figure 4, an offset is two opposing angle bends made to clear an obstruction in the path of the
run. Bends A and B must be equal in the degree of their angle.
Figuring distance
between bends
Figure 5 and 6 illustrate three different offset depths. Fig. 5 for 30° bends. Fig. 6 for 45° bends. Marks X and
Y represent the distance between bends in all examples.
Knowing the depth of offset needed, and having established the angle of bend to use, and the distance between
bends, you then need to know:
Figure 7 illustrates the distance between bends and the “shrink” for a 10 inch offset with 45° bends. In this
case the shrink is 3%.
To save time, the calculations needed for offsets from 1” to 10” have been worked out and assembled in a Zip
Guide for offsets (Table C). It indicates distances between bends for a range of offsets for 1” to 10” inclusive
FIG. 5 Distance between bends, 30° examples. FIG. 6 Distance between bends, 45° examples.
All About Offsets 15
Summation: At any given angle the distance between bends determines the depth of any offset. Knowing the
“shrink” tells the operator where to place a mark on the conduit to start the first bend.
16 Chapter 2
Q
&
Questions
Answers
Should offset bends be made on the floor or with bender head in the air?
A Offsets in small conduits (1/2 inch EMT, 3/4 inch EMT and 1/2 inch rigid or IMC) may be bent in the
air. However, when making the second bend to complete the offset some journeymen prefer to bend on
the floor.
Q Are your degree scale marks accurate for both EMT and rigid conduit?
A Degree scale lines are engineered for EMT... i.e., 3/4” EMT should register on the line. If 1/2 inch rigid
conduit is bent in the same groove bend 1° or 2° below the degree line.
Q come?
Chapter Two says nothing about 60° x 60° offsets, yet your degree scale has a 60° slash mark...how
A Try to avoid 60° angle bends for offsets. Wire pulling around them is difficult. If you are extremely
cramped for space, 60° bends are OK, but 30° or 45° bends are always best if you have the room.
All About Offsets 17
AVOID CROOKED OFFSETS: A “dog leg” occurs when the two bends of an offset are not in the same
plane. To avoid this, bend the second half of the offset just a tiny bit (8° to 10° or even less...then sight down
the pipe...if the bends are out of line, twist the conduit into correct alignment. Now as you complete the offset
the “dog-leg” will disappear.
Make it your custom to use 30° bends for most offsets. Wires pull easier! A straight up handle {vertical to
floor} indicates that a 30° bend has been made...and to establish the distance between bends the 30° multi-
plier is simply “two”...no fractions to multiply}.
18 Chapter 3
Chapter 3
Back-to-Back
Bends
This chapter explains where to mark the conduit
and where to position the bender for perfect back-
to-back bends.
Thus, if the back of the ninety is to end up 50 inches from a fixed point
on the conduit, the 50 in. are measured off and marked, the star-point
is then aligned with the 50 in. mark and the bend is made.
FIG. 10 Star-point symbol on tool registers with FIG. 12 If back-to-back bends are close
mark on conduit. Completed 90° bend "centers" together, make the second bend
in future wall partition. as you would a stub.
& Answers
Questions
Q Must I always mark the conduit prior to aligning the star-point for a back-to-back ninety?
A No. To speed the work, but the conduit end against a wall or fixed object...place a chalk mark on the
floor where you want the back of the bend to lay, align the star-point with that mark, and bend. A brick,
a carton, a stick would serve the same purpose. Simply align the star-point with the edge of the object and
bend.
Q Suppose I want the back of a 45° bend to lay snugly against an angle surface or truss...what then?
A You still use the star-point. The star-point foretells where the back of the bend will lay regardless of the
angle, i.e., it works from 0° to 90° or any angle in between.
Q Should I use the star-point when bending with the bender head in the air (end of handle on floor)?
A Yes. It works in any position. When bending conduit over the bending shoe remember to keep constant
bending pressure close to the groove.
Q If there is no back bend symbol on the bender how can I establish my own mark?
A That’s easy. Make a test bend after first marking a line on the floor and a mark on the conduit. Before
bending bring the two marks into registry...after completing the ninety measure the distance from the
mark on the floor to the back of the bend. The result is the “shrink” distance. Now measure the “shrink” dis-
tance back from the mouth of the bender groove and cut a permanent reference mark into both sides of the
tool with the edge of a file.
• IF THE BACK OF THE BEND LAYS UP AN INCH OR TWO LONG, take another bite and over bend
it to 120° or 130°. Then push the bend back to 90°. This will increase the radius but the back of the bend will
drop an inch or two and lay up snugly.
• On the contrary, if the back of the bend ends up SHORT straighten the conduit and re-bend it to a shorter
radius USING A HICKEY.
Chapter 4
The “Gain” is the distance saved by the arc of a 90° bend as illustrated in Fig. 13.
It is obvious that a path that short-cuts is shorter than one that doesn’t. Cutting thru a gas station takes fewer
steps than walking around the comer.
Therefore, it is easy to see why the overall length of a piece of conduit having a 90° bend is less than the sum
of the horizontal and vertical distances when measured square to the comer.
In Fig. 13, the dotted line distance X plus Y will be greater than the length of the conduit because of the “short-
cut” taken by the bend.
The difference between the distance X plus Y and the length of the conduit is called the “GAIN.” Knowing
the gain therefore enables the electrician to cut, ream and thread both ends of a piece of rigid or IMC conduit
while it is still straight. He then makes his 90° bend and both of the threaded ends will drop into position with
perfect precision.
30 + 15 = 45 inches
45 -4 = 41 inches
& Answers
Questions
Q The “gain” for 90° bends is clear to me but suppose there is also a 4 inch deep offset (using 30° bends)
in the “X” portion of Fig. 13...what then?
A Offsets use up -extra conduit. See offset Table B, Chapter Two. The table tells you that 30° bends
shrink 1/4 inch per inch of offset depth.
Therefore, you add 1 inch back-in and precut the conduit to a length of 42 inches instead of 41 inches.
Q How do I establish the “gain” for 90° bends of a longer or shorter radius than NE Code standard?
A Simply make a test bend using the radius you intend to work with. Add distance X to Y (Fig. 13) and
then measure the actual length of conduit after it is bent. The difference is the “gain.”
Three and Four Saddle Bends 23
Chapter 5
Three
and Four
Saddle Bends
An electrician, who can make fast “3-bend” and “4-bend” saddles, without reworking them to fit, is recognized
in the trade as a tip-top conduit man. That’s why the saddle bend is selected to verify the truth of any journey-
man’s claim that he is an accomplished conduit man.
When a straight run of conduit has to be offset to cross over an obstruction such as a small water pipe or another
conduit -a saddle bend is required. For saddles of moderate depth a “three-bend” saddle is recommended but
if the saddle is more than 6 in. deep, a “four-
bend” saddle is best because it occupies less
space, follows the contour better, looks neater
and uses less conduit.
Three-Bend Saddles
Procedure. Measure the diameter of the object to be crossed over (depth “0”) and multiply that depth by 2 1/2.
This will give you the distance “L” between mark “A” and “B” and between mark “A” and “C.” Keep in mind
that the multiplier 2 1/2 is constant.
Irrespective of conduit size or type the depth of a “3-bend” saddle times the constant multiplier 2 1/2 determines
the needed distance between bends. (See Fig. 14).
Locating the 45°Center Bend (Mark “A”). Obviously, the conduit “detours” from a straight line in crossing
over an obstruction. Therefore, to adjust
for this, mark “A” should be placed at a
point more than the distance you actu-
ally require as distance “X” in Fig. 14.
Four-Bend
Saddles FIG. 16 Conduit aligned for 45° and "A."
& Answers
Questions
Q Your saddle technique works okay when the saddle comes near the middle of a 10ft. length of conduit
but suppose it comes close to one end?
A Let us say you have only 12 in. of straight conduit left to use as a lever in making the second 22° bend
at “C” (Fig. 17). Slip a pipe sleeve over the short end for use as extended leverage. Bend over the bender
groove (tool in the air). The sleeve assures c1ose-to-the-groove pressure and provides the needed leverage to
complete the 22 ½° bend.
Q Table E in Chapter Five indicates that a 4 in. deep saddle will cause the center mark “A” to shift 3/4 in.
(3/16 per inch of depth). What then is the overall shortening end to end?
A AThetenoverall
foot length of conduit after making a 4 in. deep 3-bend saddle will measure only 9 ft., 10 1/2 in.
shrink is figured at 3/8 in. per inch of saddle depth...4 x 3/8 = 12/8 or 1 1/2 in., i.e., just
double the values shown in Table E, Col. 3.
Q How do I allow for shortening of the conduit on the 4-bend saddle illustrated in Fig. 18?
A Allow the same as you would for two 5” deep offsets (See Table C, Chapter Two). Col. 4 indicates a 5
in. offset with 45° bends shortens the conduit 1 7/8 in. In Fig. 18 we have two 5” deep offsets...therefore,
your 4-bend saddle would shorten the conduit 2 x 1 7/8 in. or 33/4 in. in overall length.
Three and Four Saddle Bends 27
For tighter, closely coupled 3-bend saddles try a 60° center bend and two 30° side bends...and change the
constant multiplier to 2 instead of 2 1/2.
Not all pipe saddles need be made with the tool in air (handle end on floor). But, if bending on the floor you
must make the side bends near the end of an elevated platform or at the edge of a loading dock or a stairwell.
This allows previously made bends to lay in free air thus providing firm solid footing because the portion to
be bent lays flat on the floor.
28 Chapter 6
Chapter 6
Bending with
Hickeys Variable
Radius Bends
History
If you ask an old-time electrical journeyman to hand-bend rigid conduit, he’ll reach for a hickey, not a bender.
A hickey can be defined as a rugged, compact, chunky casting of steel or iron with an integral side opening
hook large enough to receive the size conduit it is designed to bend.
The origin of the name “hickey” dates back to about 1910, the days of gas pipe. In those early times gas pipe
was sometimes used as electrical conduit. The need for bending it was obvious, but tools were not yet on the
market. Electricians, therefore had to improvise bending tools by, for example, taking a one inch IPS plumber’s
"T" fitting , sawing out the side of it, bell-mouthing all sharp edges, then screwing a piece of 1 -in. steel pipe
into the top hub to serve as a handle.
That’s how hickeys were born. The men just called them “hickeys,” and the name stuck. Even today one defi-
nition given in the dictionary for the word “hickey” is “any device or gadget whose name is not known or is
momentarily forgotten.”
Uses
Hickeys are essential on every job for very-short-radius bends such as are required to fit into shallow slabs and
narrow partitions in modern construction. Short radii are often needed for conduit wiring of machinery, printing
presses, oven equipment and the like.
Hickeys are also used to shift, or “jockey,” already installed conduit runs a few degrees to get conduits into
proper position. A good hickey, therefore, should grab on and hold firmly when reversed...some do, some don’t.
Originally, hickeys were used only for heavy-wall, rigid steel conduit. Now they are made for EMT, aluminum
conduit, and IMC conduit. Three manufacturers now market a combo hickey. Each tool makes good bends
whether used for rigid conduit, EMT or IMC. The realistic size range for hand bending with hickeys is from
1/2-in. through 1 1/4-in. EMT and from 1/2-in. thru 1-in. rigid or IMC conduit.
Bending with Hickeys Variable Radius Bends 29
A hickey hooks on the conduit like a fist and is manipulated like a pry-bar when fitted with a steel pipe handle
as a lever.
A hickey is inched along or shifted on the work during the course of the bend. Uniform, evenly spaced bites
are recommended. The closer the bites, the shorter the radius. Usually, 10° or 15° of bend at each bite produces
a NE Code radius bend. A shorter than NE Code radius can be made when it’s necessary. A “bender,” on the
other hand, makes only one arc-one fixed NE Code radius.
The contour of a hickey bend is controlled by the operator. A good hickey man masters his technique only after
the benefit of practice, patience, and experience.
One marked advantage of the hickey is its versatility. It will produce short, medium, long, or extra-long radius
bends. It is also ideal for concentric runs where each bend is of slightly larger radius than its neighbor. We will
deal with concentric bending technique later in this chapter.
Guess work or “eye balling” the degree of bend is not advised. If the hickey has no degree of angle indicator it is
recommended that the operator gage the first 10° bend using a protractor. In so doing he should fix in his mind
the length of stroke it took to make the first 10° arc and keep repeating that same stroke on subsequent bites.
Concentric Bends
Making good bends on individual lengths of conduit can be mastered with a little practice. But what separates
the novice from the craftsman is the concentric bending of a bank of conduit, each with its own radius of bend,
so the completed installation looks good. Using the Benfield method shown in Fig. 22 is a sure-fire way of
doing the job right. Prior to bending, place reference marks on the conduits (as shown on the chart). Bend in
nine equal 10° segments, i.e. nine 10° bites = 90°. Start all bends at arrow on tool.
Hint:
Hickey bends should be made on the floor with firm foot pressure on or against the tool.
30 Chapter 6
2nd run:
3rd run:
4th run:
Making
Stub-ups
Chapter 1 shows how stub-ups are made
using a bender. Exactly the same tech-
niques can be employed while using a
hickey, except Table F must be used for
Table F the take-up.
Bending with Hickeys Variable Radius Bends 31
& Answers
Questions
Q Can hickeys be used to shift conduit stubs on concrete slab work in the case of a missed partition?
A Yes. Usually it is best to remove the handle, placing the hickey head only on the conduit. The hickey handle
is then sleeved over the conduit close to the hickey head and used as a lever to bend the “wandering stub”
back into proper position. The hickey head is rested at the concrete floor level. Care should be taken to keep
the “hook end of the hickey” towards the operator less after bending the hickey is locked tight to the floor by
the bend.
• Don’t underestimate the importance of the uniform spacing between bites as the hickey is “inched along”
during the bending operation...non-uniform spacing develops into a “sled runner” as defined on page 84.
32 Chapter 7
Chapter 7
Rolling Offsets
(Around Corners) and
90° Compound Belts
Often it makes a better looking installation and it is more economical to use conduit bends to turn a 90° corner.
This applies whether it be an outside corner or an inside corner. This chapter explains how to do both.
Let us suppose the job calls for an exposed run of conduit from a sign, a light, or a piece of equipment on the
East wall of a building to a control switch to be mounted at a convenient level on the South wall of the building.
Such a run would look better and cost less if the outside corner turn is made with a “rolling offset.”
The Benfield technique for making regular offsets to exact measurement is explained in Chapter Two. For your
convenience the Benfield Offset Formula and Zip-Guide Speed Table in condensed form is reprinted at the end
of this chapter. (See Table G).
To turn the corner without the use of fittings, simply bend a pair of offsets in tandem as shown in Figures 23,
24 or 25. For “rolling offsets” it is best to use 30° bends for easier wire pulling. Here’s how it’s done:
Table G
Rolling Offsets (Around Corners) and 90° Compound Belts 33
External corner
Step One:
Bend offset “A.” This offset must be made just deep enough to allow the conduit to clear the corner. (See
dimension “X,” Figure 23).
Step Two:
Step Three:
Step Four:
If the run was left to right (West wall to South wall-Figure 24) FIG. 23 Rolling offset external corner
position conduit in the tool so completed offset “A” rests towards right to left.
the left and in a plane at 90° to the bender groove before starting
offset “B.”
Step One:
Step Two:
Step Three:
Step Four:
FIG. 24 Rolling offset external corner
Make offset “O." left to right.
34 Chapter 7
Note One: In Figure 25, the run is from right to left. If the job requires a run from left to right position conduit
in the tool so completed offset “C” rests towards the right in a plane at 90° to the bender groove before starting
offset “O.”
Note Two: If you happen to reverse a rolling offset by mistake it’s no problem...just save the bent section for
use elsewhere. Here’s why: (a) An external rolling offset (right to left) as per Figure 23, works perfectly for
an internal corner (left to right). (b) An external rolling offset (left to right) per Figure 24 works fine for an
internal corner (right to left) as in Figure 25.
This technique works for any combination of angles (60°/ 30°, 22V2°/67V2°, 45°/45°, etc.). Let the folding
rule (or tape measure) tell you the proper combination of angles to use for each compound 90° bend. Here’s
how to do it.
Step One:
Step Two:
Mark this distance on the conduit as point “A” and point “B.” This is
the space needed between the two bends.
Step Three:
Step Four:
FIG. 25A Measure distance between "A" and "B" FIG. 25B In this example, two 45° angles and a
12-inch spacing between points "A' and "B" were
used.
Rolling Offsets (Around Corners) and 90° Compound Belts 35
& Answers
Questions
Chapter 8
Bends can be employed to turn outside or inside comers anywhere and they have the mark of professionalism
Wall to ceiling
Making a transition run from a wall to a ceiling can be
tricky. Conduits if run directly from a wall switch to a
center ceiling fixture using a gooseneck bend will leave an
ugly air gap at the ceiling corner. To avoid this air space,
use two 90° bends as shown in Fig. 28. One bend lays flat
on the wall...the other bend lays flat on the ceiling.
FIG. 27 Over-the-top with gooseneck FIG. 28 Avoid air gap at ceiling. Use two 90°
is BAD PRACTICE. bends.
Electrical Conduit in Concrete Slabs, Shifting EMT Stubs, Etc. 37
Chapter 9
Electrical Conduit in
Concrete Slabs, Shifting
EMT Stubs, Etc.
Over the years electrical contractors and journeymen electricians have given the author many tips that have
become valuable aids on the job. These ideas are passed along with the hope that they will be helpful to others
installing conduit, IMC and EMT in the concrete
pour.
Cradle your
deck runs
It requires only a few extra inches of conduit,
IMC, or EMT to “cradle” the conduit runs on the
deck...and the benefits are manifold:
Wire-tie deck
level first
...Tie down the horizontal runs at the deck level
first.
Wire-tie groups of
stubs together
...When stub-ups are in close proximity, tie them as
illustrated in Fig. 31.
FIG. 31 Conduits in close proximity.
...Use a piece of scrap thin wall or conduit...here all
five stubs are locked together structurally.
Enter narrow
partitions obliquely
...Had we attempted a straight entry in Fig. 32 half of
the 90° bend would stick out of the pour.
...Oblique entry also allows the use of code radius bends throughout for ease in wire pulling. A tie or two ahead
of the switch leg lends stability to the run and stub-ups stay secure. Using this “oblique entry” technique also
means that narrow partitions and shallow slabs will no longer present a problem.
…Chip out enough concrete around the stub to allow the heel of the bender itself to drop below the surface so
the groove will fit snugly around the conduit as shown.
Note: Take care not to place the hook end of the bender downward or the bend will lock the bender to the
concrete slab and the tool cannot be removed without mutilating the conduit.
Electrical Conduit in Concrete Slabs, Shifting EMT Stubs, Etc. 39
& Answers
Questions
A Don’t attempt to remove the kink with a hickey or bender. Instead, do this:
...Using an IPS sleeve over the EMT push the stub back into vertical position. (A good portion of the kink
will disappear by this operation alone).
...Now use a bullet-nosed steel rod and ram it down inside the EMT, turning it to and fro as you go. This will
usually bring the kinked portion back into round again.
Q Stubs will get knocked over but can I do something to minimize this trouble?
A tile
Yes...immediately after the forms are removed drop a piece of hollow tile over the stubs and leave the
there until the likelihood of mechanical injury has passed. This serves as a constant, but gentle
warning to other trades to keep clear.
• Don’t make your marks on the conduit too wide. A pinpoint precision bend could miss by as much as the
width of your mark.
• HOW TO REMOVE A SHARP KINK IN 1/2” EMT. Straighten the EMT as shown in Fig. 34 (page
61). The kink will nearly disappear. Now, rebend it in the same area in any direction you choose, BUT you
must now use extra heavy foot pressure to coin the kinked area back into round again.
Removing Bend in 1/2" EMT 41
Chapter 10
Removing Bend
in 1/2" EMT
It is entirely practical to remove even a full
90° bend from 1/2” EMT. Obviously, angle
bends and offsets can likewise be removed
by following the procedure indicated in
Fig. 34.
Work the EMT back into the handle as you FIG. 34 Removing a 90° bend at 1/2' thinwall.
straighten the bent portion until the bent
area disappears completely into the bender handle. After the major straightening is done any remaining ripples
in the EMT can be removed in the groove of the bender {tool in air, handle end on floor}...just a touch here and
there is enough to get the EMT straight enough to be bent again in any direction. Sharp kinks in 1/2” EMT can
be removed in the same manner.
Note: When rebending EMT in the same area it was straightened, take care to apply extra-heavy foot pressure.
This extra foot pressure will “coin” the metal forcing it to conform to the bending groove. Done properly, only
you will know that the EMT has been bent, straightened and rebent into proper position. This procedure is not
practical in sizes larger than 1/2” EMT.
42 Chapter 11
Chapter 11
Bending Surface
Metal Molding
A relatively new one-sweep bending tool enables the electrical
journeyman to bend surface metal molding just as he would rigid
conduit or thin wall EMT.
The tedious feeding of wires thru comer fittings, angle elbows, etc.
with all the accompanying cutting and fitting is often unnecessary
if bends are used. Metal molding can be installed and wires pulled
in, just like with thin wall EMT. It’s a big plus to be able to pull
wires thru the surface raceway, especially if offsets and multiple
one-sweep 90° bends are involved. (This tool is shown in Figs.
FIG. 35 Action view.
35 and 36).
The bender illustrated bends the popular sizes of molding and with
the use of an adapter, that snaps into the bender groove, it bends
the “baby size” molding as well.
How to make
3-bend saddles
in surface metal
molding
Example: Crossing over a 2” diameter water
FIG. 38 Making 3-bend saddles in surface metal molding.
pipe calls for a typical three-bend saddle. A 45°
bend at the center of the pipe (point A) and 22
1/2° bends on each side (points B and C).
Chapter 12
Bending PVC
Conduit
The author’s bending experience has been primarily with metallic raceways, steel or aluminum. However, PVC
conduits are now so widely used that a keen interest in bending it exists.
Heating methods
Bending PVC conduit only requires the ap-
plication of heat. A bender can be used as a
template for establishing the proper bending
A. Electric oven heaters (infrared or calrod elements)
radius for small sizes.
B. Electric blanket (element embedded in silicone rubber)
Note 1. When possible heat the area inside as well as outside the conduit.
Note 2. In a pinch use the hot exhaust from the tail pipe of a pick-up truck. To obtain uniform all-over heat
carefully rotate the PVC conduit in the motor’s hot exhaust.
Chilling methods
1. Immerse the bent area in a cold water bath.
3. Hose down the bent portion, both inside and out, with cold water.
Chapter 13:
That may be welcome news to the electrician who first learned how to bend using 1/2” thin wall conduit. That
electrician can now use those basic bending formulas on the big stuff too. The technique is the same for stub-
ups, back-to-backs, offsets or saddles. The measurements change but the formulas don’t.
To locate a star-point
It’s no problem if the electrician feels more comfort-
able using the old standby Benfield “Star-point”
symbol (see Chapter 3) for back-to-back bends. Any
make of tool (hand or power type) can easily be modi-
fied to provide a back-of-bend indicator symbol. To
locate the exact spot on the tool for such a “star-point”
follow these simple steps: Example of "Chicago" ratchet-type bender.
Step 2 Lay the test length of conduit on the floor abutting it firmly against something immovable such as a wall.
Step 3 Draw a chalk line on the floor exactly opposite the pencil mark on the conduit.
Step 4 Make a test 90° bend with the pencil mark on conduit even with the “jaw” (hook) of the ratchet bender.
Step 5 Place the bent conduit back on the floor where it was at the start.
Step 6 Measure the distance (inches) from the chalk line on the floor to the back of the 90° bend just made.
Step 8 Now measure this “shrink” distance back from the “jaw” (or hook) of the bending shoe and mark your
tool by filing a visible “V” notch. The notch is your future “Star-point” for back-to-back bends. As with the
Star-point, a stub-up symbol can be marked on any bending tool. Follow these simple steps:
Step 2 Use a T-square to be certain the test bend is a true ninety (90°).
Step 3 Measure the distance from the floor surface to the pencil mark on the conduit.
Step 4 This distance is the “take-up” {inches} for that bending groove...make a note of it.
Step 5 At some visible point, file a “notch-mark” on the sector. This distance is your “take-up” symbol for
future 90° stubs. (To avoid fractions, this mark should be placed on the even inch).
Chapter 14
Hand Bender
Types Described
Sub-Section "A" - Two
position foot pedal benders
The electrical journeyman is not expected to bend large conduit sizes by hand. It is generally recognized that
1 1/4 in. EMT and 1 in. rigid steel or IMC conduit are the limits. Mechanically powered, ratchet-type, gear-
powered, or hydraulic benders are used for the larger sizes.
With the conduit inserted in the bending shoe and the foot
pedal in the lower of its two positions, grasp the bender
handle with one hand and place the ball of one foot on
the extreme end of the pedal. Step up onto the pedal,
stiffening the leg, and apply full body weight to the pedal
through the ball of the foot. Do not bend the knee. The free
arm and leg should be extended as required to maintain
balance while the force is being applied. Coordinate “stiff
leg” foot pressure with each pull on the handle. Push down
and pull simultaneously in small amounts for best results.
Position B
Repeat step A a number of times, applying force in small amounts until edge of pedal rests against conduit. At
this point the conduit has been bent to a 55° angle.
Position C
Lift the pedal with the toe of the shoe until it locks into the second (upper) position.
Position D
At this point the operator should combine heavy (two arm) force on the handle along with heavy foot pressure
on the step, and bend in small amounts until the 90° bend is complete.
Note: When bend has progressed to “C” position some operators prefer to “about face” and bend from a posi-
tion at 4 o’clock to the work. It may seem odd, but a right handed electrician often prefers to bend with left leg
foot pressure...and vice versa.
Obviously, this tool is not intended for production bending where hundreds of bends per day are involved.
Rather, it is a supplementary tool, well-suited for service-truck use where quick set-up and speed are important.
It meets the need for a simple, low-cost, portable, light weight bending device and provides an economical
solution to the problem of bending 1 1/4 in. EMT and 1 in. rigid steel or IMC conduit with precision accuracy.
Q
&
Questions
Answers
Would a longer handle make bending easier with the big Power-Jack model?
A No! Normally one would expect that longer leverage would make bending easier but in this case it is quite
the opposite...a longer handle would invite more pull on the handle than is needed. Too much handle pull
causes the entire assembly to lift up off the floor and a kink results. Foot pressure is paramount! Constant, heavy,
stiff leg foot pressure pins the conduit or EMT tight to the floor, assuring a smooth, accurate bend.
Q What are the recommended handle lengths for benders and hickeys?
A For electricians of average height handles should be:
Hand Bender Types Described 49
Q Can the big Powr-Jack be used in the air...that is with handle on floor and bending the conduit over the
groove?
A Not recommended. For best results with Powr-Jacks make all bends on a hard surfaced floor. If a previous
bend prevents the conduit from laying firmly on the floor it is best to bend at the edge of a loading dock,
platform or stairwell.
This permits the previously bent portion to lay in free air and allows solid footing for a floor bend.
Q Can Powr-Jack foot pedal benders be bolted flat out on a bending table permitting their use as a stationary
bench bender?
A Yes. However, we recommend that a long pipe sleeve be telescoped over the EMT, or rigid conduit to serve
as extra leverage and provide the dose-into-the-groove pressure needed for good results.
Q During the course of the bend does a vertical (to the floor) handle indicate a 30° bend in the work?
A Yes. All benders, hickeys and foot pedal benders shown in this manual are designed so that a vertical
handle indicates a 30° bend.
If a bend is needed in a short piece of 1 1/4” EMT (4 ft. to 5 ft. in length) sleeve it with a piece of 1 1/2” conduit.
This extends the length and provides both solid footing and better leverage.
Foot pedal benders can be bench mounted with good results. However, a pipe sleeve should be used over the
11/4” EMT or 1” Rigid or IMC. Such a sleeve does two things:
IMC stands for Intermediate Metal Conduit. It is steel conduit produced by the continuous electric weld process
in trade sizes 1/2” through 4”. IMC meets Underwriters Laboratory specification 1242 and ANSI spec. C-80-6.
There are no NE Code limitations on IMC. It is generally accepted for use in locations just like rigid steel
conduit.
The wall thickness of type IMC is thinner than that of rigid steel conduit but it is thicker than thin wall EMT.
Hence, the term Intermediate Metal Conduit.
Apprentice electricians are often initiated into conduit bending via the use of thin wall fixed radius benders.
These are excellent training tools because stub-ups, offsets, backbends, and saddles can be made accurately if the
operator follows the simple rules explained in this manual. Symbols built into these benders by manufacturers
serve as indispensable guide marks for accuracy.
However, for bending rigid steel conduit or IMC conduit, different hand benders are recommended. Electricians
are sometimes tempted to use a 3/4” EMT bender for bending 1/2” rigid or 1/2” IMC conduit. This practice
has limitations.
Bending rigid conduit or IMC is like fabricating a “double thick” thin wall conduit. The O.D. is larger and the
operator must move more than twice the metal to bend it. It follows then, that newly designed benders were
needed to bend these heavier conduits to the proper radius.
size is quite a different problem. The 1” conduits have a wall heavy enough to skip the need for special grooves.
Standard existing 1/4’ EMT benders (the type with a two-position booster step) do an excellent job. Many
thousands of these two position benders are already in the field.
It is the author’s opinion that even the toughest, most rugged “beef-baron” electrician should not attempt to bend
size 1/4" IMC or, of course, 1 1/4” rigid steel conduit with hand benders. Hydraulic or mechanically powered
benders should be used for sizes 1 W’ and above.
So let’s forget hand benders for 1/4" and larger sizes of rigid or IMC. The power leverage required is simply
beyond the range of human strength.
It is important that crews equipped with these new benders be able to identify them apart from standard EMT
benders because rigid/IMC benders will kink or flatten thin wall EMT. One manufacturer uses a painted foot
pedal as a means of identification. Another manufacturer plates the entire tool with zinc-chromate to give it a
gold colored finish.
& Answers
Questions
Q Should bends with the new rigid/IMC benders be made on the floor?
A paramount for accuracy.
Yes. Operators will find it best to make all bends in rigid and I MC conduit on the floor. Foot pressure is
again
Note: If a previous bend prevents the conduit from laying firm and flat on the floor, bend at the edge of a loading
dock or stairwell. Or bend on an elevated surface such as a heavy plank so that the previously bent portion is
elevated enough for the conduit to lay in free air and thereby provide solid footing for a floor bend.
Q Can’t I bend 1/2-in. type IMC or rigid conduit over the bender groove, i.e., in the air with the handle end
on the floor?
A Yes...but you must keep extra heavy hand pressure close to the groove...otherwise the conduit bends away
from the bottom of the groove and this results in an uneven, inaccurate bend.
Note: A larger pipe if sleeved over the IMC will serve both as a lever and will assure the close to the groove
pressure so necessary when making a bend in the air.
BEND RIGID CONDUIT AND IMC ON THE FLOOR. If you are right handed apply pressure to the foot
pedal with your LEFT FOOT. You will get better footing and feel more secure to have your RIGHT FOOT
placed firmly on the conduit and floor.
Bend with a fairly wide stance. The feet should be 28” to 30” apart. This provides better body balance and
more power.
Foot pressure is paramount...pin the conduit tight to the floor with STIFF LEG FOOT PRESSURE throughout
the entire bend.
Hand Bender Types Described 53
The author has always taken a dim view of universal type tools in the belief that too often they sacrifice impor-
tant features in order to give them their universal scope...a typical one piece parallel groove type tool is shown
in Fig. 44.
FIG. 44 Combined bender tool. • 1/2” rigid conduit or IMC groove makes a 4”
inside radius.
• Brightly painted symbols serve as permanent bench marks to facilitate and encourage precision work.
The disadvantage of combination benders is weight. Obviously, double groove tools must be heavier than a
single groove model. The model illustrated weighs 4.5 lbs. without the handle.
Combo tools are popular for service repair trucks because one tool covers the need for almost every branch
circuit conduit bending job that a troubleshooting electrician may encounter. Made in one size only.
54 Chapter 14
Strong, “ready-to-go” handles that stay straight, stiff and rigid are important. No operator likes to work with a
bent handle. If bent, the chances are it was made from easy bending electrical conduit.
A handle made from soft, ductile, easy bending pipe soon bends adjacent to the neck or collar of the bender.
A bent handle is not only a hindrance to accurate bending but it transforms a perfectly good bender into an
awkward, cumbersome tool to use.
A bent handle that works loose is actually unsafe. If a threaded handle backs off as little as one quarter turn
during the fabrication of a bend the operator could be thrown off balance, lose his footing and fall.
A field made handle using scrap electrical conduit is false economy. Not only does the practice entail excessive
labor costs but benders with easy bending handles soon become a counterproductive liability.
A handle that stays straight is a real “plus value” on the job because most hand benders are engineered so that a
straight up (vertical to the floor) handle indicates a 30° bend has been made in the conduit. This feature is an aid
to accuracy and speeds the work. Obviously, a bent handle completely negates this important indicating feature.
Factory engineered handles are not only made from high yield merchant pipe, but the threads are tapered so
they will jam tight before they hit bottom when screwed into the threaded socket of the bender. Once jammed
tight the handle stays put until it is removed with a wrench.
Factory-made handles give the manufacturer ample space in which to provide the basic bending instructions at
point of use. Some manufacturers apply to the handle a large weatherproof, Mylar coated, vinyl bumper sticker
type label. Sometimes called a “Zip-Guide,” this label serves as a ready reference to indicate allowances for
precision offsets, back bends, and stub lengths.
An instruction label on the handle in bold, black letters is a great aid to the electrician. The data is always with
him right there where he is doing the work...it encourages precision, speeds the work and eliminates wasted
conduit bends that often wind up as scrap on the “oh-oh” pile.
The popular 3/4-in. I.P.S. handle sold by some manufacturers has one end expanded for several inches so that
this end will sleeve over 1/2-in. rigid conduit, 1/2-in. IMC and 3/4-in. EMT. Thus the handle can be used as a
stub straightener on concrete deck work or for trueing up stub lengths into proper position.
How did this custom of marketing hand benders and hickeys without a handle ever get started?
The history of it is interesting, but before going into the background, imagine yourself going into a hardware
store to buy an axe. The clerk hands you the axe head but informs you that you’ll have to provide your own
handle. You might well say to yourself, ‘’This gent has lost his marbles.”
Here’s how it all got started: Back about 1910 hickey benders were cobbled up on the job out of plumber’s fit-
tings, i.e., a one inch plumber’s pipe “T” fitting was cut away at the side, all sharp edges were then filed down
Hand Bender Types Described 55
Q
&
Questions
Answers
What length of handle is recommended for benders and hickeys?
Note: Handles longer than the above are awkward to use and just add unnecessary weight. An extra long handle
invites too much pull with the arms and as a consequence foot pressure lessens. The more foot pressure the
better the bend.
Q Why does a straight up handle (vertical to the floor) indicate a 30° bend on some benders yet on other
brands it may indicate a 45° bend?
A This is so true. The author’s early models were engineered so that a vertical handle indicated a 45° bend. It
was soon found that this required the operator to reach over so far for the handle at the start that he relaxed
his foot pressure on the power step. Therefore the tool was redesigned with easier-to-reach handles. Now that
the handles are 15° closer they are easy to reach, and a vertical handle indicates a 30° bend. Incidentally, 30°
bends are now very popular for offsets because wire pulling is easier.
56 Chapter 14
Q How do I correct a handle that turns or backs off even though the threads are fully engaged?
A Cut off the threaded end, re-thread the pipe with a very shallow or tapered thread that will jam up tight.
The length of your bender handle is important. Handles should serve as a means to better body balance...not
solely as a power lever.
If handles are too long they get in the way. They also invite too much shoulder pull which lifts the entire tool
and conduit assembly off the floor and kinked conduit results.
Soft steel handles of easy bending conduit should be reinforced by driving a smaller pipe (18” long) or a rebar
into the threaded end with a sledge.
A Review of Conduit Bending Tips 57
Chapter 15
A Review of Conduit
Bending Tips
A lot of hands-on information has been presented in the preceding chapters of this book. Now it’s time for a
review to jog the memory a bit. If the material doesn’t sound familiar, make sure you go back and read the
appropriate chapter again.
Concentric bending
Let us agree then that hickeys are the best tool to use for concentric segmental bending. To obtain a smooth
even contour each bite or bending increment should be equal in its degree of arc. The total of such increments
completes the 90° sweep.
Note in the Concentric Bends table on page 40 that all four bends are made to ninety degrees and each is made
in nine equal ten degree (l0°) segments or bites. Suggested spacing for reference marks is shown in this drawing
for 1/2” and 3/4” conduits.
Important: All hickey bends should be made on the floor, using firm foot pressure on the tool with the opera-
tor’s shoe wedged tightly against both conduit and hickey. This provides stability and helps control the degree of
bend to be made at each segment. It helps if the operator keeps in mind that he must forcefully pin the conduit
tight to the floor on every bite. (See more details on hickeys in Chapter Six.)
Place reference marks on the conduits prior to bending as detailed in Chapter Six. Each reference mark should
be aligned with an arrow on the hickey or any permanent reference point on the tool to assure equal spacing
between bites.
Guess work or “eye balling” the degree of bend is not advised. If the hickey has no degree of angle indicator
it is recommended that the operator gage the first 10° bend using a protractor. In so doing he should fix in his
mind the length of stroke it took to make that first 10° arc. Then he should keep repeating that same stroke on
subsequent bites. Reason: A protractor is time consuming and once the operator gets “the feel” of a 10° bend,
the protractor is no longer necessary.
“Knowing the comers” is a big plus in any trade. Here are some conduit bending tips the author has learned
after many years of talking “conduit” with professional electricians all over the free world.
a. Stub-ups in narrow partitions: Bend a 45° or 60° kick in the conduit a few inches away from the par-
tition. This allows the run to enter the partition obliquely. Thus a conduit bend of conventional NE Code
radius will enter into an unbelievably narrow partition with room to spare.
b. Bending both legs of an offset on the floor: Make the second bend on a slightly raised platform (a
2” x 4” will usually do) or bend at the edge of a loading dock, stairwell, etc. This allows the first bend to
hang down in free air.
c. Avoid crooked offsets: To eliminate “dog legs” place a chalk line on the conduit...this facilitates align-
ment with identical registry points on the bender. Thus multiple bends are kept in the same plane. Or bend
the second half of the offset just slightly (8° to 10° or less). Then sight down the pipe. If bends are out
of line it will be apparent. Now rotate the conduit into correct position and complete the offset...the “dog
leg” will disappear.
d. Bending with tool in air: Apply hand pressure as close to the groove as possible, even if it is uncom-
fortable. Keep pressure close! Tucking conduit under the arm pit helps. To keep body balance allow the
tool to rock forward as the bending progresses.
e. Bending on floor: Work on hard surfaces...avoid soft sand, deep carpets, etc. A straight (vertical) handle
indicates a 30° bend.
f. Offsets: Use 30° angle bends where possible. Wires pull easier around 30° bends...and the multiplier to
establish distance between 30° bends is simply two times depth. No decimals or fractions to multiply...and
a vertical handle is an instant indicator that a 30° bend has been made.
g. Foot pressure: Don’t ignore the importance of foot pressure on the treadle step. Constant foot pressure
makes for better looking bends and greater accuracy. Pin the conduit tight to the floor throughout the entire
arc of the bend.
h. Three bend saddles: Make the center 45° bend first. Then make 22 1/2° bends on each leg.
i. Marking conduit: Always girdle the conduit 360° with your pencil mark so it won’t disappear from
view in the tool no matter which way you turn the conduit.
j. If you paint the bender: Don’t obliterate the all important arrow, star-point, tear drop symbol, rim notch,
degree scale or multiplier scale.
k. Out of shape hooks or grooves: If a rod-buster stretches the hook of the bender pound it back with
a sledge hammer or squeeze the groove in a carpenter’s vise until it returns to its original diameter. This
applies only if the tool is of malleable iron.
l. Uniform long radii: First mark conduit in even increments and bend in even amounts at each mark.
A Review of Conduit Bending Tips 59
Chapter 16
General Bending
Information of Value
This chapter includes an assortment of informative data relative to electrical conduit. Electrical journeymen
should find it interesting and a worthwhile addition to the store of knowledge about their trade.
Sub-sections to follow deal with such subjects as: Metric equivalents to our current measurements and how to
transpose them...What conduit types are used in other parts of the free world...Foreign electrical terms vs. North
American, etc.
A mini guide
to metrication
for electricians
North America is almost alone in the world as an area still
sticking with inches, feet, yards, miles, etc. In 1975 the
electrical conduit industry in England converted to the
metric system. Our conversion, near term, is inevitable.
Conduits abroad
Because we are rapidly becoming one world the author feels that the modem electrician should know what
other nations use as electrical conduit.
In England, the United Kingdom, Europe, Ireland, Japan, South America and, indeed, all over the free world
(except North America) electrical steel conduits are generally made to the British standard.
British conduit sizes since 1975 are manufactured to metric measurements. Sizes are listed by 0.0. rather than
by nominal I.D. as is the custom in North America.
British standard conduit is thinner in wall thickness than American or Canadian standard rigid conduit or IMC.
However, the British conduit wall is slightly heavier than our EMT. The British standard calls for threaded
joints but because of its lighter wall, finer, shallower threads are used. Compression fittings such as our EMT
couplings and connectors are rarely used.
British standards provide for both black enameled and galvanized finishes. No restrictions are placed on bending
radii. It is not uncommon to see short 2” inside radius bends in British 20mm (roughly equal to our 1/2” EMC
conduit).
An extra heavy British conduit is employed for explosion-proof locations (they call it “flameproof locations”).
This extra thick walled conduit is called Water Barrel Pipe. British water barrel pipe is not quite as heavy in
wall thickness as standard U.S. or Canadian rigid steel conduit. While British standard conduit is listed in MM
sizes for all practical purposes conduit usage is limited to what we would term 1/2”, 3/4” and 1” sizes. Larger
sizes comparable to our 1”, 1 1/2” and 2” are not stocked by British electrical whole-salers. These larger sizes
are usually shipped directly from the conduit mill. Sizes larger than 2” are strictly mill run specials in the U.K.
For conduits larger than the 2” 0.0., 2” x 2” or 2” x 3” steel duct is used. This they call “Trunking.” Cable tray
is also popular for heavier feeders and for interior distribution lines.
Clay tile conduit or heavy steel armored and jacketed cables are used for underground lines or for direct earth
burial.
In Switzerland steel electrical conduit is used almost entirely as a mechanical protection for the PVC jacketed
cable it houses. Because steel conduit is not used as a ground path in the system the conduit is simply a means
of protecting the wires or cables from mechanical injury.
For example, on exposed surface runs for lighting, etc. if a 90° turn in the run is required they terminate the
conduit, make a 90° bend in the cable, leave the bent cable exposed in free air before it enters another steel
conduit at 90° to the first.
No threads are cut on conduit ends. They simply cut off the conduit, ream it and insert a plastic end bushing to
protect the cable from abrasion. The bushings are driven into the conduit ends for a friction fit.
Offsetting small conduits in some instances is done by the wrinkle bend technique. This permits a light gauge
steel conduit or tubing to be bent by hand without kinking. A special jumbo size plier is used to bend it.
Also available in Switzerland is manufactured prewrinkled PVC conduit. This tubing is rather stiff but it can be
hand bent because the wall is thin and it has wrinkles girdling it 360°, i.e., completely around its circumference.
Sections of this tubing are inserted into the steel conduit run where necessary to accomplish 90° bends, offsets,
62 Chapter 16
and saddles. Since the metallic conduit is not used as a ground path these semi-rigid PVC “sections” can be
inserted into the run at any point to join the metal conduit via the use of a simple unthreaded metal sleeve type
coupling for a friction fit.
Manufactured short elbows are used as well as the above. These are made of die cast metal. Where wires
emerge from the cut conduit ends, such as at junction boxes, 90° turns, etc. a plastic bushed insert is used to
protect the wires from abrasion, sharp edges or wear due to vibration. All conduits and fittings the author saw
in Switzerland were galvanized or plated.
To sum up, branch circuit work is 220V AC and wired with multi-conductor jacketed PVC cables with the
ground conductor within the cable rather than employing the raceway as a ground path.
He soon discovered that it was not the English accent as much as the different expressions, slang and jargon
they use that make it difficult at first for North American Electricians to understand their British counterparts.
To help the would-be International Electrician understand these “foreign” expressions there is listed below a
sampling of American vs. British terms...Are they better?...worse?...amusing?-you decide!
Elevator Lift
Moonlighter Nixer
Non-electrical terminology
NorthAmerican British (U.K.)
A buck A quid
A goof A clanger
Chea Fiddle
Cops Narks
Crummy Scruffy
Duped Winkled
Finagled Diddled
Gypsies Tinkers
General Bending Information of Value 65
Honey Treacle
Mugged Coshed
Napkin Serviette
Needled Nobbled
Pressured Lumbered
Spuds Teddys
Tricky Dicey
Whacky Loopy
Windshield Windscreen
Summary 67
Summary
As you have discovered in this manual, the business of bending conduit is not so complicated as it seems to
be at first; making bends that fit right the first time is easy if one follows a few simple rules.
As the author promised at the start, not a single technical word has appeared in this manual -no high math...
no “trig”...no sines...no co-sines...no algebra or geometry was needed to learn the simple art of making con-
duit bends that fit!