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Rattus 02-23-2011, 01:15 PM

Hope this is in the right section and not out of line.

To the builders out there great and small.

These sounds like a juvenile questions but, rotaries are a different world.

1. Do you fabricate your own cams?

2. Are there sources for cams besides going through the few suppliers that offer them?
3. Is the stroke length governed by the pin offset from center on the cam in mm?

Trying to gain some working knowledge of these and might hack the shop owners knock-offs. lol

tattooedpirate2 02-23-2011, 01:40 PM

Me personally, I use cranks and connecting rods as well as a slide in my machines. As far as direct drive rotaries, I use to
build them 25 years ago. Building a cam is real easy with the right tools. If you don't have a mill you can get a cheap drill
press from harbor freight and a machinists cross slide vise and make a mill for about a hundred bucks. The cam is off
center measured and thats where you drill your shaft hole for the needle pin and bearing. I measure in from the edge of
the crank myself, its easier. You need an edge finder to do this. But if this is to much to do send me your drawing and I
will make you one. What kind of motor are you using? I use one from Radio Shack that is super powerful and
inexspensive on my Blunderbuss Machine. Most machine shops use metric measurements for sizing its easier than the
inch. I'm an inch man myself that's all I have ever used.

Rattus 02-23-2011, 02:14 PM

I'm in the data collection and thinking stage for any of this. I was thinking of first hacking the shop owners stealth knock-
offs. He mentioned that he's like a longer stroke and I'm digging what Otto has done. Then move on to a complete
machine. I think that I know what motor your using.

Post or PM me on what some cam's would cost from you. Looking for a 4 - 4.5mm stroke conversion.

I wish that I had time for a drive. I see your about 6.5 hrs from me. Love to pick your brain. lol

Administrator 02-23-2011, 03:21 PM

If you do this I would also suggest making new bases and tube chucks for them as the current ones are one of the
downfalls of that machine.

Rattus 02-23-2011, 03:24 PM

If you do this I would also suggest making new bases and tube chucks for them as the current ones are one of the
downfalls of that machine.

I hear what your saying. I dislike those chucks. might as well just go for the ground up approach at that point. Kind like
using an old Supreme frame and only saving the side plate.

Administrator 02-23-2011, 04:06 PM

Maybe a nice blued steel or brass base would make it look nice.

"If you have to buy Chinese you should at least buy it from an American" ;)

Administrator 02-23-2011, 04:15 PM

Could get Seth C. to make you a chuck like this?

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/168939_494134124603_500879603_5766104_2999916_n.jp g

Rattus 02-28-2011, 08:41 PM

That would be sweet.

OK here's another question. While I plan on buying from at least three of the builders on this site, my mind goes wild and I
like to tinker.

My question is: What are the key factors on motor selection? Torque and how much? RPM? stuff like that. I'm looking
over several motors and just wondering..would that work or would that make a hamburger machine?

Administrator 02-28-2011, 09:13 PM

Cost, weight, longevity of the bearings or bushings in the motor. This is a good question since each builder will have thier
own theories. It has also been brought up before (I think by Mike Metaxa) to think less about the motor and more about
the drive system. Do you have a heavy cam that works like a fly wheel or is it light and balanced what type and size of
bearings are you using, etc. I am only adding this cause I know some of the builders pride them selfs on having at least a
little proprietary info they need to keep. Hopefully a few of them will chime in with some info.

Rattus 02-28-2011, 09:45 PM

Cost, weight, longevity of the bearings or bushings in the motor. This is a good question since each builder will have thier
own theories. It has also been brought up before (I think by Mike Metaxa) to think less about the motor and more about
the drive system. Do you have a heavy cam that works like a fly wheel or is it light and balanced what type and size of
bearings are you using, etc. I am only adding this cause I know some of the builders pride them selfs on having at least a
little proprietary info they need to keep. Hopefully a few of them will chime in with some info.

Ahhhhhhh my brain! LOL

I was trying to see if this was talked about before I asked.

Weight and size is one for my preferences and that goes for the whole machine as well. Moving to lighter stuff.

The whole flywheel is unknown.

I would like to make a direct drive and something along the lines of a a-bar setup with spring, like a shag canister comes
to mind.
I'll leave the piston and slide systems to the other guys for now and just buy one of theirs. lol

Dan Kubin 02-28-2011, 10:23 PM

I worked long and hard to find my sources. I don't give out that info very easily. I buy in large quantities as it keeps the
price down.
I sell flywheels (for direct drives) for $15 and motors for $15 as well.
I have been using the motors for over a year with good results.
-and the bearings in the flywheels haven't crapped out on me yet.

6000 rpms = 100hz

-that's all the help I am giving.

possessed2sk8 02-28-2011, 10:31 PM

Any useful info about motors can easily be found via internet research. There is a lot of info out there from RC car
enthusiasts

The Limey 02-28-2011, 11:53 PM

There is a lot of info out there from RC car enthusiasts

You beat me to it!

Administrator 03-01-2011, 12:40 AM

and despite what you read on RC info sites, brush-less is not the way to go. You are trying to tattoo not fly a helicopter.

Rattus 03-01-2011, 07:19 AM

6000 rpms = 100hz
-that's all the help I am giving.

Thank you for that little tid bit.

rjdadio 03-01-2011, 08:03 PM

After testing motors, I have found the Mabuchi motors to be my choice, the bearings hold up well and the motors are
inexpensive. Carbon brush motors out last precious metal ones. RK-370 models. If you order from Mabuchi directly, you
can have them build to your specs.......at a min 5000 motor order.

Rattus 03-01-2011, 08:09 PM

After testing motors, I have found the Mabuchi motors to be my choice, the bearings hold up well and the motors are
inexpensive. Carbon brush motors out last precious metal ones. RK-370 models. If you order from Mabuchi directly, you
can have them build to your specs.......at a min 5000 motor order.

Thank you. I was going over their site and some others for most of my day. A little mind boggling.
That number looks familiar. Nah, no customs motors needed. I'm not trying to be the next thing. Just want to tinker for
my own mental stimulation.

Rattus 03-06-2011, 01:23 PM

Thank you for the help.
I have few different motors on the way to play with.
Collecting other parts, odds and ends.

polynesianworks 03-09-2011, 02:56 PM

how does those radio shack motors hold up?

Administrator 03-09-2011, 03:47 PM

how does those radio shack motors hold up?

Cary puts them in the blunderbus machines, with instructions on how to change the motor out and what to buy to replace
it. I have not heard of anyone blowing a blunderbus yet though it would depend of course if you are using it for a daily
driver or not. Anyone on here with a blunderbus with loads of hours on it want to comment?

fatcashdaddy 03-09-2011, 05:33 PM

I've used my blunderbuss exclusively for a little over a month..everyday, damn near every tattoo and it always performs
flawlessly. I started using it strictly as a liner, but after i got my blitz I now use it for shading/color. the blitz is my new
liner...

slicksteel 03-09-2011, 06:22 PM

I noticed the neo tat site is update! looks great!

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