Gilera Nordwest Service Manual PDF

WORKSHOP MANUAL
NORDWEST
(Nordcape in Germany)
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Reproduced by
OWNERS CLUB
OF BRITAIN
from information obtained from original or copied

manuals originally issued by
Piaggio/Gilera
Whilst every care has been taken to ensure

accuracy of the contents, I Gotta Gilera does not
accept any liability of any type due to any errors or
omissions, and use of this manual will denote
acceptance of this condition.
NOTES:
In addition to this workshop manuals texts and pictures transcribed from original
Piaggio/Gilera manuals, there is included a section on the various known faults with
which the Nordwest/RC600 is prone to suffer. Whilst these faults were obviously
not included in the original official manuals, we believed they should be a part of any
publication dealing with Nordwest/RC600 maintenance.
At the very rear of the manual are 5 pages of additional information, which have
been included to assist you. This additional information was not in the original
manual.
If you find any errors, please email us (gilera@igottagilera.co.uk) so that this manual
can be updated to be as accurate as is possible.

INDEX
Section
General information - Known faults 1

Special tools 2
Maintenance 3
ENGINES
Working procedures 4
Engine removal/installation 5
Generator - Timing belt - Gearbox selector 6
Cylinder head - Valvetrain components 7
Cylinder - Piston 8
Clutch - Primary drive - Oil pump 9
Crankcase - Gearbox - Crankshaft components 10
FRAMES
Front Wheel 12
Front suspension - Steering 13
Rear Suspension - Rear wheel 14
Brakes 15
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Battery - Charging circuit 16
Ignition system 17
Electric starter 18
Switches - Horn - Lights 19
Trouble shooting 20
Circuit diagram 21
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION A
Not included in original manual

GENERAL INFORMATION 1
SUB INDEX
Section - Page
Known faults 1-1

Safety procedures 1-2
Maintenance procedures 1-2
Model Identification 1-2
Technical data 1-3
Engine overhaul data 1-4
Torque wrench settings 1-5
Cables and wire passage 1-6

KNOWN FAULTS 1-1
Fan touches Radiator. Remove tank, look down back of radiator &
check that fan shroud has about 3mm (1/8”). The fan mountings are
slotted but if there is not enough adjustment, trim the front of the shroud.
Long rear engine bolts can seize. Remove the bolts one at a time,
clean off any corrosion and coat them in ‘Copper Slip’ or grease before
refitting. Torque 30Nm.
Tank filler thread can be broken off. Over tightening the tank cap
can cause the threaded part of the tank neck to be pulled off the neck.
Not easy to effect a good repair, but some resins and super glue can be
used and may repair the damage.
Fork seals leak. Seals on upside down forks do not last very well.
Fairly easy to replace. ‘Leak proof’ seals can be used and are
guaranteed and can be pushed in with your fingers. Available from
dealers selling ‘bike bits’ parts.
Body panels crack from fixing screw holes. Remove all screws and
refit one at a time loosely. They must go in without the panel having to be
stretched. If they will not go in, enlarge the holes slightly then all should
fit. Nose crews first, then tank screws, then the big screws in the middle
of the panel. After 228-70862 a revised system of fixing the tank panels
was used to stop the cracking. To update an older bike:
Screws only in the rear fixings to the tank. Spacers under the crescent at
the front of the tank to stop it clamping the panel tight. Cross bar is in two
pieces with rubber washers under fixing bolts. Strips of draught excluder
along top of tank in front of rear panel fixing screws.
Rear suspension linkage. The linkage is fitted with grease nipples.

Don’t forget to grease it occasionally.
General maintenance tips
Oil filter - was commonly used on older European small cars, particularly
the Renault 4 800/850 1970s & 80s.
Technocar R-15 change every 2nd oil change (ie 8,000km)
Following makes will fit: AC-Delco X13 Champion C116 Fram
PH2874 Techocar R-15 TJ Filters 5300. Note the Motoquipe filter
is a larger diameter and will not fit.
1 - 1,1

Tappet adjustment - Conventional, but limited space means you need a
special tool to hold the adjuster screw while you tighten the lock nut.
A Gilera tool is available, but you can make do by using a 6mm box
spanner for the lock nut, and a screwdriver long enough to work through
the middle of the box spanner for the adjuster. As you cannot use a
tommy bar through the box spanner, you will need a ring spanner that
will fit over the the top end of the box spanner. Set the engine at TDC by
the mark on the alternator and check the clearances. You will need to
curve the feeler gauge to get it under the cam.
Inlet - 0.05mm Exhaust 0.10mm cold Torque locknut 10-12 Nm
Gear selection problem - Refusing to change up at high revs,

particularly between second and third are probably due to a faulty or worn
gear selector pawl (part no. 321536). The teeth don’t fully engage on the
dogs of the selector drum and result in the pawl slipping off the selector
mid-way through the gear change. On high mileage bikes it is possible
that the teeth and/or dogs become worn or that the spring which lightly
presses the pawl against the dogs (part no. 328993) becomes a bit soft.
It appears that a batch of Nordwests which were on sale from June 93
were fitted with incorrectly manufactured pawls. The pressing wasn’t
deep enough so that the teeth of the pawl didn’t engage on the dogs of
the selector drum, and the edges of the teeth weren’t square to it’s plane.
Pawl (part no. 321536) Spring (part no. 321176) Gasket (part no.
947243)
The pawl can be replaced once the left hand engine cover has been
removed. To do this you will need an alternator puller. As you will need
one of these to change the cam-belt anyway, it could be well worth while
checking the pawl when you come to change the cam-belt even if you
have not yet experienced the symptoms. Unless the pawl is seriously
worn or faulty, you shouldn’t have a problem unless you are in the habit
of going well into the red through the gears.
Changing Cam belt - Gilera recommend changing the cam belt every
12,000 km. It would probably be safe for a bit longer but it should not be
ignored. You will need a puller for the alternator, but the puller is not
common with other bikes. A pattern puller is available from the Italian
firm of Bazzetti via Venhill (the cable people) part no. Nordwest/RC 5343
38*1.5mm.
Support the bike with a paddock stand, axle stands or whatever you
have. Tank off, spark plug out, cam belt cover off, rocker box covers off,
sprocket cover and gearlever off. Now remove the four screws from the
alternator cover. You will probably not be able to pull it off because it is
a tight fit, so tap it gently around the edge with a hide or nylon hammer
and with a bit of wiggling it should come off. DO NOT LEVER IT WITH A
SCREWDRIVER as you can easily damage the machined faces.
1 - 1,2

The stator is fixed to the inside of the cover so it is quite heavy. Tie it to
the bike to stop it hanging on the wires. Put the bike in 5th gear and
stand on the back brake, this should lock the crank well enough for you to
remove the bolt from the centre of the rotor. Screw the protector pad
into this thread then screw on the puller. Now rotate the engine (by the
back wheel) until the mark on the rotor lines up with the mark on the
crankcase (it is about one o’clock). The marks on the cam pulley wheels
should be in line with the horizontal break in the housing (i.e. the inlet
mark at 3 o’clock and the exhaust at 9 o’clock). If they are not, rotate the
engine 360 degrees and check again.
Now it is at TDC on the firing stroke, hold the puller body with a spanner
to stop it moving and tighten the puller bolt to remove the rotor.
When you remove the rotor a woodruff key and three large washers will
fall out. Remove the nut and spring washer from the bolt tensioner then
pull the tensioner wheel off, now you can remove the belt. When you fit
the new belt it is easy to be one tooth out because of the slack, so put the
belt on the crankshaft and work from the front keeping the belt tight as
you fit it first to the exhaust then the inlet.
Use your finger in place of the tensioner and check that the pulley marks
are in the correct place. If OK fit the tensioner and torque the nut to
28-30 Nm.
You can use an OHP (overhead projector pen) or similar to make marks
on the belt and cam wheels. Then you can transfer the marks to the new
belt when the old one is removed. Double check by counting the teeth on
the belt. If the wheels move out of line, you can simply re-align to the
marks on the new belt.
The tensioner spring should have correctly set the belt tension. Be very
careful with the new belt, make sure it is spotlessly clean, do not kink it
and do not use anything other than your (clean) fingers to fit it.
That’s it, now you just put it all back together. The washers behind the
rotor go big washer first with it’s angled edge facing out (away from the
pulley), next the two dished washers, one dish in the next dish out so
they will squash each other a bit as the rotor is tightened home. Copper
Slip the tapper, oil the bolt and don’t forget the woodruff key, torque to 40
Nm.
Late amendment: Rather than putting it in 5th gear and standing on the
footbrake, look through the inspection holes in the rotor where you can
see a convenient casting (about 1 o’clock), so insert a rod through the
inspection hole, to bear on the casting (perfectly safe considering the
relatively small amount of torque involved) , give the bolt a twist and off
comes the rotor. AND/OR use a piece of wood through the rear wheel
resting on the swingarm. The wood being soft doesn’t damage the
spokes and keeps the wheel from moving.
1 - 1,3

Headlight modification (RH drive to LH drive)
If your Nordwest has the headlamp pointing to
the right instead of the left, a simple modification
can correct it.
Remove the headlight bulb, taking care NOT to
touch the Quartz-Halogen bulb glass.
There are two locating tangs sticking up. With
the tangs positioned nearest to you (i.e. looking
at the bulb, the tangs should be in front of the
glass bulb), flatten the tang on the right hand
side, leaving the left hand tang intact.
Re-install the bulb into the housing, ensuring that
the remaining tang is located in the slot. Twist
the bulb clockwise (viewed from the back) until
the tang prevents further rotation. Replace all other parts, reconnect and
check headlight vertical.
Chains & sprockets

All bikes based on the 4 valve OHC single use the same type of front
sprocket and 520 chain.
Nordwest 14 front (part no. 328016) 43 rear (part no. 946060)
Rear sprocket is dished (not flat), 5 bolt fixing.
108 links
Brake fluid
ALL hydraulic brakes on Gilera bikes use DOT 4.
Nordwest speedo cable

One from an XJ900 or an RD125LC or even an RC600 can be used but
you might need to ’adjust’ the routing of the cable.
Starter clutch failure

It is not possible to repair the starter clutch, so a new one must be
purchased. It is probable that the starter clutch fails due to the use of
synthetic oil which, because of it’s reluctance to break down, does not
allow the metal rollers to make decent contact with the inside of the metal
drum (this metal to metal friction is what makes the starter clutch work),
so semi-synthetic oil may be a better option to help alleviate this possible
problem..
Valve timings
In 12/48 Ex 36/26
with 1mm valve clearance
1 - 1,4

Paioli front forks
Seals tend to show signs of leakage at fairly low mileage. Some later
bikes have small screws at the top of each leg and if you loosen them
you will release some air pressure. The two legs are not the same. Both
have a spring and oil (Nordwest has a spring ONLY on the left leg), but
only the right one has the damper mechanism, so if you want to
experiment with different grades of oil, you only need to change the right
leg. Modified seals were fitted to bikes after VIN 228-71037 so if you
have an older bike you will need spacers to allow the fitment of the
modified seals. Part numbers Seal 952633, Spacers 952737.
A complete kit with all seals, bushes etc is available part number 344921.
A special tool is required to fit the new seals but some Suzuki models use
the same forks so dealers should have a suitable tool. (Alternative seals
are Vesrah ref AR4104 as fitted to KX250 1989/91 size 41mm X 53mm
X 8mm).
Support bike with front wheel clear of ground. (For Nordwest, ensure the
bike is secured if using a paddock stand under the fork legs, as when the
wheel spindle is removed, the right hand leg collapses and the bike tends
to fall over), Disconnect speedo cable, remove fairing, mudguard, brake
callipers and front wheel. Now you can remove the fork legs. Take the
top nuts out and invert the legs to drain the oil. You will find a nut on top
of the damper rod in the end of the fork leg, loosen this nut by tapping the
spanner sharply. Once the nut is removed, the two halves of the fork leg
can be separated, but first remove the dust seal and the spring ring
underneath, then hold the bottom of the lower leg in a vice and knock
the seals out by pulling the top leg up sharply. Fit the new seals etc with
the special tool which will ensure it all goes in straight, reassemble and fill
each leg with 400cc of SAE10 fork oil. Do not forget the lip of the seal is
very fragile and needs to be in perfect condition so take precautions to
keep it perfect during assembly.
Spark plugs (gap 0.6 to 0.7mm torque to 12 to 15 Nm)

NGK (heat range)
DPR 9 EA9 (normal) DPR 8 EA9 (cold) DPR 9 EV9 (wide)
Nippon Denso (heat range)
X27 EPU-9 (?) X27 EPRU-9 (?) X27 EPRZU-9 (wide)
Cables - oiling
Clutch and brake cables used to need oiling regularly with engine oil.
Modern cables are nylon lined and will work for ages with no attention.
When they start to get stiff, lube them with WD40 or similar.
Speedo cables may be nylon lined, if they are you should be able to see
a plastic tube around the inner cable if you look at the end that goes into
the clock. Disconnect the cable at both ends, pull the inner out and clean
it with WD40. Also spray down the outer. Now leave the WD40 to dry,
otherwise it will end up getting in the clock. If it is not nylon lined, pull the
inner out and clean it with a solvent. Once it is dry, lightly grease it all the
way from the bottom to within 2 inches of the top. If you grease it all the
way to the top, grease will work up into the clock.
1 - 1,5

Choke
Yamaha SRX choke will fit and fixes to the handlebar.
Nordwest tyres
Front 120/70-17R 2.1 bar (30psi) solo, 2.2 bar (32psi) 2-up
Rear 160/60-17R 2.3 bar (33psi) solo, 2.4 bar (35psi) 2-up
Torque your head studs

You will need a torque wrench with a range up to 40 Nm and down to
about 15 Nm with a socket and an extension bar that is long enough to
get the wrench clear of the frame.
Slacken the four bolts by about 1/8 of a turn each. This ensures that they
will not be stuck and will accurately be tightened. 1/8 of a turn is not
enough to break the seal that has been made.
Set the wrench to 20-22 Nm and tighten one nut. Next tighten the
opposite nut. Now do the other two nuts in the same way.
Repeat this with the wrench set to 25-27 Nm.
Now repeat with a setting of 33-35 Nm.
Steering head races

You need to get the front wheel off the ground to check the condition of
the bearings. Head races are checked by raising the front wheel off the
ground and turning the handlebars slowly from side to side. If you notice
a slight ‘notchy’ feel especially as you pass the straight ahead position,
the bearings are damaged. Next, stand in front of the bike and grip the
bottom of the fork legs. Pull and push, there should be no free play at the
head stock. If there is movement, you need to tighten the races. You
may not be able to feel any free play but as a double check, get
someone else to pull and push whilst you put your finger half on the
bottom yoke and half on the head stock. You will be able to feel the
smallest movement.
Adjusting the head races.
Loosen the pinch bolts on the bottom yoke. Loosen the top nut in the
middle of the top yoke. Under the top yoke there is a castellated ring.
Turn it clockwise to tighten using a C spanner or tap it round with a
hammer and punch. It will not need to be moved much. Do not turn it till
it is tight. The taper roller races are correctly adjusted when there is no
free play. It is very easy to over tighten them and then they will fail quite
quickly.
Tighten them until the forks will not fall from side under their own weight
when you turn them. Now slacken off slightly until they will fall freely.
Now tighten the top nut. You may find that now the races are too tight. If
they are, slacken the top nut, loosen the adjuster a bit and retighten the
top nut. If it feels OK, tap under the bottom yoke (both sides) just to
make sure that the fork legs have moved in the clamps and then tighten
the clamp bolts.
1 - 1,6

Greasing the bearings.
Support front of bike and remove front wheel. Take of the callipers and
tie them up to the bike somewhere. Disconnect the speedo. Take the
top yoke off. (Be careful as when you do this, the forks will fall out and
they are quite heavy). The forks will come out complete with the bottom
yoke and one half of the bottom bearing and the rollers. The top race will
be left complete at the top.
Clean roller cages and races in petrol or something similar. Inspect the
races for any signs of dents or damage including rust. If all is well, then
thoroughly grease the rollers, re-assemble and adjust as above.
Because you have not loosened the bottom yoke clamps, the forks will go
back together easily and straight.
If you have to change the races, the difficult bits are getting the bottom
inner race off the stem and getting the outer races out of the steering
head. There are tools designed to do the job and a local repair shop
MAY lend/hire them to you. Otherwise, you’ll need a long punch which
you can put through the head stock and tap the race out, first one side,
then the other, a little at a time. Getting the bottom inner off is tricky.
Carefully tap a slim cold chisel or screwdriver under the race, first one
side, then the other, but go steady. You will probably damage the dust
cap which is under the race, so be sure to replace it (very cheap). The
important thing when refitting the races is to get them fully seated all the
way round. Don’t hit them directly with anything metal, use a wooden
drift. The races will probably settle a bit after about 10-20 miles, so
check the adjustments
1 - 1,7

SAFETY PROCEDURES
Whenever working with the engine on, never work in closed areas;
always have the area well ventilated due to the toxic gasses (carbon
monoxide) contained in the exhaust.
The battery’s electrolyte contains sulphuric acid. Always protect the

eyes, clothes and skin. If electrolyte gets in the eyes, flush thoroughly
with and seek expert medical assistance promptly.
Petrol is highly flammable and in certain conditions even explosive.

Never smoke in work areas; avoid sparks or flames.
The battery produces hydrogen which is highly explosive. Never smoke

around a battery and avoid sparks and flames, especially when charging.
MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES
Always use original Gilera spare parts and recommended lubricants. The
use on non-original parts or parts not conforming to Gilera specifications
may result in damage to the motorcycle.
Always use the special tools designed specifically for this motorcycle.
Always use new gaskets, O-rings, split pins and safety plates when
reassembling.
Always tighten nuts or bolts starting with those of greater diameter or

found internally; tighten in a diagonal sequence in 2 or 3 passes and to
the recommended torque, unless otherwise noted.
Always use metric tools when working on this motorcycle; metric nuts and
bolts are not interchangeable with the British sizes. The use of either
non-metric tools and/or nuts and bolts may cause damage to the
motorcycle.
Arrange all electrical wires as indicated in the “Cables and wire passage”
paragraph.
1 - 2,1

MODEL IDENTIFICATION
Frame and engine numbers are stamped on the Manufacturers plate, as

well as on the frame and engine.
The engine serial number and engine size are stamped on the plate (fig.
1) found at the rear of the engine.
The carburettor identification number is found on the right side of the

carburettor (fig. 2).
The frame serial number is stamped on steering sleeve left side (fig.3)
Fig. 1 Fig. 2
Fig. 3
1 - 2,2

TECHNICAL DATA
DIMENSIONS
Overall length 2180 mm

Overall width 800 mm
Overall height 1180 mm
Wheelbase 1415 mm
Seat height 870 mm
Foot pedal height 320 mm
Dry weight 141 kg
FRAME
Detachable tubular steel single cradle; detachable tubu-

lar steel rear frame.
Steering column angle 27°
Forestroke 92 mm
Front suspension, Paioli telescopic fork “upside-down”
Stroke 150 mm
Stanchion diameter 41 mm
Oil capacity (each side) 400 cm³
Rear suspension, Böge monodamper Power-Drive
progressive shock absorber
Stroke 150 mm
Wheels
Front (die-cast) 3,50 x 17”
Tyre size 120/70-17”60R
Pressure rider only 2.1 bar
with passenger 2.2 bar
Rear (die-cast) 4,50 x 17”
Tyre size 160/60-17”60R
Pressure rider only 2.3 bar
with passenger 2.4 bar
Brakes
Front floating disc with hydraulic 4
controlled double piston Ø 25/28 mm
disc diameter 270 mm (2)
disc thickness 5 mm
Rear, floating disc with hydraulic controlled single piston Ø 32 mm
disc diameter 240 mm
disc thickness 4.5 mm
Fuel tank capacity 12 ltrs

Fuel reserve 2 ltrs
1 - 3,1

MOTOR
Monocylinder, 4 stroke, vertical cylinder

Bore x stroke 98 x 74 mm
Displacement 557.9 cm³
Compression ratio 10.5:1
Cylinder compression (use special tool 19.1.20524) [new] 10 - 12 bar
[over 5,000 km] 9 - 11 bar
Bhp 36.5 kw (49.5hp)
a/at 7250 g/1’ rpm
Tax rating 8 CV
Torque 52 Nm
a/at 6250 g/1’ rpm
Valvetrain, 2 belt driven overhead camshaft
Lubricating system, forced inner gear driven pump

Oil capacity 2.2 ltrs
Cooling system, permanent coolant with recirculating

pump and by-pass thermostat
Coolant capacity 1.3 ltrs
Air filter, paper-dry
Intake valve diameter 36 mm

Exhaust valve diameter 32 mm
Valve clearance (cold) between cam and rocker arm
intake 0.05 mm
Exhaust 0.10 mm
TRANSMISSION
Clutch, wet, multi plate

Primary drive 33/77
Gearbox, straight-tooth gears and claw couplings
Ratios 1st 13/31
2nd 18/28
3rd 20/23
4th 23/21
5th 25/19
Final drive 14/43
1 - 3,2

CARBURETTOR TEIKEI E30PV2A
Main
Choke tube diameter 30
Main jet 155
Idle jet 48
Choke jet 68
Pump jet Ø 1.1
Needle jet notch 5C58/3^
Fuel nozzle Ø 2.60 (VOO)
Throttle valve 4.00
Float
Weight 10.5 g
Level 35 ± 1 mm
This is almost certainly incorrect, we believe it should be 24 ± 2 mm
Air mixture screw 1.5 ± 0.5
Secondary (vacuum)
Choke tube diameter 30
Main jet 145
Needle jet/notch 5X7A/3^
Fuel nozzle Ø 2.60 (OO)
Throttle valve 20°
(note that additional carburettor info is on the additions page at rear of manual)
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Ignition, electronic capacitive discharge

Ignition timing fixed 7°
variable 30° a 4000 g1’-rpm
Alternator, three-phase
Battery capacity electric starting 14 Ah
Standard spark plug Champion A4HC
Electrode gap 0.6 ÷ 0.7 mm
Fuses 15 A
Starter motor 0.80 kW
Headlamp 60/55 W
Driving lamp 3W
Tail/stop lamp 5/21 W
Turn signal lamp 2W
Warning indicator lamp 1.2 W
1 - 3,3

ENGINE OVERHAUL DATA (in mm)
Piston/cylinder clearance 0.030 ÷ 0.042
Main bearings radial clearance 0.030 ÷ 0.059
Connecting rod bearings radial clearance 0.017 ÷ 0.060
Crankshaft axial clearance 0.05 ÷ 0.25
Big end axial clearance 0.15 ÷ 0.25
Gudgeon pin/piston clearance 0 ÷ 0.008
Gudgeon pin/small end clearance 0.015 ÷ 0.030
Bushings/small end clearance 0.049 ÷ 0.087
Main bearings to seat clearance 0.084 ÷ 0.140
Valve guide/cylinder head clearance 0.030 ÷ 0.066
Valve stem/guide clearance intake 0.012 ÷ 0.042
exhaust 0.025 ÷ 0.055
Gudgeon pin diameter 40.018 ÷ 40.030
Main journal diameter 39.987 ÷ 40.000
Cylinder bore see table below
Piston diameter see table below
Cam height (theoretical) 39.256
Oil pump rotors axial clearance 0.025 ÷ 0.060
Selector drum axial clearance 0.07 ÷ 0.42
Inner spring valve free length 37.6 ÷ 38.6
Outer spring valve free length 38.7 ÷ 39.7
Clutch spring free length 38.5
Clutch plates thickness 2.9 ÷ 3.0
Camshaft bolts radial clearance 0.035 ÷ 0.070
Axle/rocker arm radial clearance 0.016 ÷ 0.052
Piston ring gap 1st and 2nd ring 0.40 ÷ 0.65
scraper ring 0.30 ÷ 0.60
Rings axial clearance 1st and 2nd ring 0.035 ÷ 0.072
scraper ring 0.025 ÷ 0.062
Oil pressure 4 bar a/at 5500 g/1’-rpm
Water thermostat opens at 75°C
Water fully thermostat opens at 85°C
Cooling fan enable temperature 92 ± 3°C
Valve clearance intake (between camshaft & rocker arm) 0.05
exhaust (between camshaft & rocker arm) 0.10
PISTON/CYLINDER MATCHING CHART (in mm)

Class Piston Cylinder
A 97.964 ÷ 97.970 98.000 ÷ 98.006
B 97.970 ÷ 97.976 98.006 ÷ 98.012
C 97.976 ÷ 97.982 98.012 ÷ 98.018
1 - 3,4

TIGHTENING TORQUE (in Nm)
Engine
Cylinder head, cylinder head cover, cylinder fixing nuts 32 ÷ 35

Timing gears fixing screw 30
Spark plug 12 ÷ 15
Crankshaft gears fixing screw (lubricate thread with oil) 39
Countershaft gear fixing screw (lubricate thread with oil) 39
Free wheel fixing screw (lubricate thread with oil) 39
Clutch fixing screw (lubricate thread with oil) 39
Flywheel magneto fixing screw (lubricate thread with oil) 39
Chain pinion fixing screw 54 ÷ 59
Starting engine fixing screw 7÷9
Kick starter lock screw 18 ÷ 20
Connecting rod small end cover bolts 28 ÷ 32
Halves crankcase and fixing covers screws 7÷9
Belt tensioner nut 28 ÷ 30
Draining oil plug 12 ÷ 15
Cooling fan thermostatic switch 20 ÷ 22
Thermistore 8 ÷ 10
Oil pressure indicator 15 ÷ 17
Exhaust pipe clamp screw 18 ÷ 20
Frame
Engine support front 30 ÷ 34

upper rear 30 ÷ 34
lower rear 30 ÷ 34
cylinder head 25 ÷ 30
Lower plate fixing screw 20 ÷ 25
Upper plate fixing screw 20 ÷ 25
Absorber shock fixing 39 ÷ 44
Fork fixing 79 ÷ 88
Suspension connecting rod support to frame 79 ÷ 88
Connecting rod - suspension lever 79 ÷ 88
Suspension lever support - absorber shock 39 ÷ 44
Suspension lever support - fork 39 ÷ 44
Front disc brake fixing 45 ÷ 50
Front brake calliper clamp 10 ÷ 12
Rear calliper plate fixing 20 ÷ 25
Rear disc brake fixing 10 ÷ 12
Pipe union screw 13 ÷ 17
Ring gear fixing screw 20 ÷ 22
Front wheel pin 59 ÷ 69
Fork/pin fixing screw 9 ÷ 11
Rear wheel pin 59 ÷ 69
Handlebar fixing 20 ÷ 22
Rear frame fixing 20 ÷ 22
1 - 3,5

SPECIAL TOOLS 2
Sprocket locking wrench Camshaft oil ring installation punch

19.1.20086 19.1.20503
Puller for steering bearing lower race Camshaft pulley blocking tool
19.1.20109 19.1.20504
Flywheel puller Con-rod small end bushing

19.1.20501 installation punch
19.1.20505
Valve guide oil ring Con-rod small end bushing

installation punch extraction punch
19.1.20502 19.1.20506
2.1

SPECIAL TOOLS 2
Main journal bearing extraction ring

Main journal bushing extraction punch (ignition side)
19.1.20507 19.1.20511
Main journal bearing installation punch

(clutch side) Piston support
19.1.20508 19.1.20512
Main journal bearing installation punch Pad for crankshaft and

(ignition side) flywheel puller
19.1.20509 19.1.20513
Main journal bearing extraction ring Timing drive gear puller

(clutch side) 19.1.20514
19.1.20510
2.2

SPECIAL TOOLS 2
Drive gear blocking tool Valve clearance adjustment tool

19.1.20515 19.1.20522
Valve spring compression tool Valve guide extraction/installation punch

19.1.20519 19.1.20523
Oil filter removal spanner Compression check tool

19.1.20520 19.1.20524
Mounted flywheel blocking tool Oil seal installation sleeve

19.1.20521 19.1.20525
2.3

SPECIAL TOOLS 2
Engine support Pin sliding punch

19.1.20526 19.1.20530
Engine support base Battery charge density meter

19.1.20527 19.1.20564
Complete roller cage extractor Chain slack tool

19.1.20528 19.1.20565
Reamer set for valve seats Punch

19.1.20529 19.1.20566
2.4

SPECIAL TOOLS 2
Paioli fork disassembling wrench

Clutch collets tool (upside down)
19.1.20540 19.1.20599
Exhaust manifold spring removal tool

19.1.20551
Complete tool kit

19.1.20563
Paioli fork fitting oil seal tool

(upside down)
19.1.20598 2.5

MAINTENANCE 3
SUB INDEX
Section - Page
Setting engine speed at idle 3-1

Engine oil and filter 3-1
Engine oil check 3-1
Valves clearances 3-2
Cylinder compression 3-3
Steering bearings 3-3
Fairing removal 3-4
Carburettor ducts removal and checking 3-5
Carburettor 3-5
Air filter 3-6
Spark plug 3-6
Vacuum system 3-6
Belt tension 3-7
Throttle gas control 3-7
Clutch control 3-7
Front brake control 3-8
Rear brake control 3-8
Drive chain 3-8
Suspensions 3-9

MAINTENANCE 3
MAINTENANCE PROGRAMME (*) check every 500 km
500
to 4 8 12 16 20 24
1 th th th th th th th
PROGRAMMED OPERATIONS km
Tightening the engine bolt X X X X X X X
Tightening the cylinder head bolts X - - X - X -
Valve clearance control X - X - X - X
Timing belt tension check X X X - X X -
Timing belt replacement - - - X - - X
Decompression check X - - X - - X
Engine compression check - - X - X - X
Engine idle speed adjustment X X X X X X X
Spark plug check X X - X - X -
Spark plug replacement - - X - X - X
Engine oil replacement X X X X X X X
Oil filter replacement X - X - X - X
Air filter check and cleaning X X - X - X -
Air filter replacement - - X - X - X
Liquid check and fill up X X X X X X X
Rear wheel flexible coupling check - X - X - X -
Brake and clutch check and adjustment X X X X X X X
Sprocket, brake calliper and disc, wheel
X X X X X X X
spindle, chain pinion mounting bolts (*)
Chain check, adjustment, lubrication (if
X X X X X X X
necessary, replace the whole drive) (*)
Brake pads and blocks check, replace if req’d X X X X X X X
Fork oil replacement - - - X - - X
Fork pivot joint tightening check X X X X X X X
Steering bearing play check and lubrication X - X - X - X
Battery charge/electrical system efficiency X X X X X X X
Tyre pressure check X X X X X X X

INTENTIONALLY BLANK

ADJUSTMENTS
Fuel level
Turn over carburettor and let float rest on the needle valve’s damper spring
without pressing.
Check distance between bowl gasket seat and uppermost edge of the float
with proper gauge.
Float level = 24 ± 2 mm.
Adjustment is made by bending slightly the float tongue.
Engine speed at idle
Check and adjust idle after having made the necessary engine adjustments.
The engine must be warm in order to set it correctly.
Turn idle adjuster screw until reaching the recommended engine speed.
RPMs at idle: 1300 ÷ 1400 rev/min
ENGINE OIL AND FILTER REPLACEMENT
The engine oil replacement must be carried out with engine warm.
Remove the oil level and filter cap (fig. 9).
Loosen the oil drain plug (fig. 10) on the bottom left side of the engine, then
remove it carefully not to damage the mesh filter on it. Let the oil drain
completely.
Clean and blow out the mesh filter and then remount it and pour 2 litres of oil
into the filler cap.
Check oil level.
Start the engine, then stop it after an idle period of approx. 1 minute.
If necessary add some oil and check for leaks.
Every two oil changes, it is necessary to replace the filter cartridge; the correct
oil level is reached with 2.2 litres of new oil (remove filter cartridge using
appropriate tool 19.1.20520) (fig. 11).
Install new filter after lubrication of its gasket with engine oil.
Recommended oil: AGIP SAE 15W/40 or AGIP SINT 2000.
ENGINE OIL LEVEL CHECK
Stand the motorcycle in a vertical position, on a flat surface.

Start up the engine and let it run at idle speed for about a minute.
Stop the engine and check the oil level through the transparent oil-window on
the left side of the engine (fig. 29).
If necessary, remove the oil cap on the clutch guard (fig.30) and add the
recommended oil to the engine until the maximum level is reached as shown in
the oil-window.
3 - 1,1

3 - 1,2

VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENTS
Check and Adjust the valve clearance when the engine is cold or when the
engine temperature is below 35°C.
Check that the spring compressor device for ignition has a clearance.
Remove the seat.
Remove the fuel tank.
Remove the lid of the timing system on the left side of the engine (fig. 35).
Remove the ignition coil.
Remove the two small lids of the camshafts.
Turn the flywheel so that the reference marks on the gears of the camshafts
are lined up with those on the engine guard and the piston is at TMC (fig. 36).
Check the clearance of all four valves by inserting feeler gauges between the
camshafts and the rocker arm (fig. 37).
Valve clearance: Intake valve 0.05 mm
Exhaust valve 0.10 mm
To set clearance, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw to get a
slight drag on the feeler gauge.
Hold screw steady and tighten the lock nut with appropriate tool 19.1.20522
(fig. 38).
Check clearance.
Assemble components in reverse order of disassembly.
3-2

COMPRESSION PRESSURE CHECK
Warm up the engine.

Stop the engine and remove the spark plug.
Remove the kick starter decompressor on the cylinder head.
Connect the pressure gauge to the spark plug hole.
Turn throttle fully open.
Turn engine over several times with the electric starter until the gauge
measures the highest value.
Check that there are no leakages at the pressure gauge connection point.
Low compression may be caused by:

Incorrect valve clearance
Valves are not pressure tight
Head gasket leak
Worn piston or cylinder parts
Incorrect adjustment of the decompressor
High compression may be caused by:

Excessive carbon deposits in the combustion chamber or on the crown of
ppiston.
STEERING SLEEVE BEARINGS
Place the motorcycle on a support so as to raise the front wheel from the
ground.
Check that the handlebar turns freely from one side to the other.
If the handlebar does not turn freely, it locks, or turns with stiff movements,
especially when the wheel is on an axis with the vehicle, check the steering
sleeve bearings and replace them if necessary.
Check that the control wires do not interfere with the handlebar rotation.
3-3

Saddle and front side cover
By operating under the rear mudguard, remove the two screws (A) and from
the rear side, remove the saddle, releasing it from fixing to the tank.
Remove the turn indicator lights and disconnect the relevant connections; the
untighten the screws (B) fixing the side covers to the fuel tank and the two
screws (C) on the radiator lower side; then proceeding carefully, remove from
the front side, the side covers; in case, in order to facilitate the outlet, widen
the side covers.
Front mudguard and under crankcase protection
In order to remove the mudguard, untighten the 8 screws (D) (4 for each side),
fixing the fork stand to the mudguard, then remove the mudguard.
Loosen and remove the five screws (E) fixing the fork stand cover to the fork.
Small side cover, rear mudguard and rear end protection
Remove each side small covers by untightening the four fixing screws (F).
Remove the rear mudguard together with the wheel protection and the tail light
support, untightening the six screws fixing to the frame.
3-4

REMOVAL AND CHECKING OF CARBURETTORS
Remove the fairing, the saddle, the fuel tank and the side covers by
untightening the relevant screws.
Loosen the intake manifolds clamp to the cylinder head and to intake manifold
sleeve from filter box.
In order to pull out the carburettor from cylinder head intake sleeves, remove
the carburettor carefully.
Never force between the intake sleeves and carburettor.
Remove the carburettor by pulling it out sideways.
Remove the float chamber (A) by untightening the fixing screws (B).
Check that each float (C) is not damaged.
Check that each needle valve housing (D) is not worn or damaged.
Remove and clean, by means of compressed air, all the jets.
Place all jets on the carburettor.
Fit the float chambers.
Fit the carburettor and the intake sleeves as well as the air filter box clamps.
Fit the fuel tank.
Fit the side covers and the saddle.
Check the choke, the idle RPM and the mixing screw opening.
Warning
In order to clean the jets as well as the carefully gauged parts, never use
sharp tools or metal cables. For a better cleaning operation don’t use
pure gasoline but it is advisable to use the “CHIMEC HITEC 4420” prod-
uct, drying by means of compressed air.
3-5

AIR FILTER
After the saddle removal, untighten the filter box cover screws.
Remove the air filter from the filter box.
Using a cloth, clean the filter box internal side.
Clean the air filter by immersing it in kerosene.
Wring out the filter, assuring that you don’t twist it.
Using clean water, rinse out the filter and then let it dry completely.
Saturate the filter with “BEL RAY MC6-FOAMFILTER OIL (or exceptionally,
with gearbox oil SAE 90).
Spread a thin coating of grease on filter lips leaning on filter box and fit it op-
erating in the reverse order of disassembly.
SPARK PLUG
Disconnect the spark plug protection and remove it.

Check carefully the protection and, if the insulating material is cracked or bro-
ken, replace it.
Using a feeler gauge, measure the electrodes gap, and in case, adjust by
bending the external electrode.
Electrode gap: 0.6 ÷ 0.7 mm
Suitable spark plug Champion RA4HC
Assure that the sealing washer is not damaged.
Fit the spark plug by hand and then tighten it to the appropriate torque.
Connect the protection to the spark plug.
DECOMPRESSION SYSTEM
After the timing left side cover removal, check the decrompressor control
transmission.
The (D) lever (fig. 62) must be separate from the pin (C) not more than 1.5 mm.
The sheath (E) (fig. 61) in its housing must be free of play; in case act on
adjusting nut (F).
3-6

TIMING BELT TENSION (Fig. 62 on previous page)
In order to carry out this operation, remove the cover located on cylinder head
left side. Loosen the belt tensioner nut (A) and, by means of kick lever, rotate
the belt until the piston is at TDC point (compression position - fully closed
valves).
The spring fixed on both sides (B - C pins), will automatically arrange for the
belt charging, restoring the correct tension.
Tighten the nut (A) to the appropriate torque (28 ÷ 30 Kgm).
Warning:
Never rotate the timing pullies acting on the relevant fixing screws.
TRANSMISSION
Throttle gas cable
Assure that the throttle transmission grip rotate freely when steering on both
sides.
Check the grip free play (standard ply: 4 mm) (Fig. 63).
In case restore the correct play by operating on the adjusting screw (over the
carburettor).
Clutch
The clutch control lever free play is 5 ÷ 8 mm (fig. 64).

Periodically it is advisable to adjust this clearance, acting on the proper screw.
In case of clutch malfunctioning, act on the right side cover lever, changing the
keying position pin.
3-7

Front brake
The front brake is free of any regulation. It is advisable to verify, every 4,000
km the hydraulic fluid level on the master cylinder tank (fig. 63).
Make sure that there are no leakages on brake system and that the pipes and
connections are free from damage.
In case the hydraulic fluid is under the lower position, remove the master
cylinder tank cover and fill with hydraulic fluid “DOT 4.” Change the hydraulic
fluid every two years.
The front brake control lever free play: about 4 mm (fig. 63).
Rear brake
Push the brake pedal link towards the master cylinder with a finger pressure
and, acting on the adjusting screw, regulate the reserve travel on the rod
(1 mm).
TRANSMISSION CHAIN
The transmission chain working life depends on an appropriate lubrication and

on correct adjusting operation. Fault to the above mentioned checks, the
pinion and rim gear can be damaged, endangering the vehicle performance.
The transmission chain condition must be carried out before every starting;
and the chain adjusting every 2,000 km. In case that the vehicle is used in
dusty places, the servicing operations have to be carried out more often.
Chain tension check
This operation have to be carried out with unloaded vehicle, and, in order to
check the rim gear excessive eccentricity, in vertical position. The chain lower
side, pushed upwards, at mid-point between the pinion and rim gear, must give
a total arrow of 35 ÷ 40 mm.
If the chain becomes loose, the chain links are damaged. It is advisable to
check very often the chain links, rollers and rim gear teeth condition.
Whenever the above mentioned parts are worn or warped, it is necessary to
replace them (fig. 65).
Warning
Never fit a new chain on a worn pinion and rim gear or the contrary.
Whenever one single transmission is worn, it is necessary to replace all
three transmission components.
The chain junction link locking pin must be fitted with the closed side
towards the direction of chain rotation. Never operate modification on
original chain: Never open a closed chain (without link).
3-8

SUSPENSIONS
Front suspension
The telescopic fork does not need any particular care. Check periodically its
efficiency by jamming on the front brake and by moving the fork up and down,
like a pumping movement. The suspension functioning should be smooth and
without leaks or oil blow-by.
Ensure that all the suspension jointing components are securely tightened.
Rear suspension
Check the shock absorber and whole suspension unit functioning.

Ensure that the shock absorber is securely fitted, without any damage or
leakage.
In order to lift the rear wheel off the ground, place a support under the vehicle.
In order to check the fork bolt bearings for an eventual wear, move the wheel
sideways with force.
In case, replace the bearings.
Tighten all the nuts and bolts to the appropriate torque.
Warning
In order to avoid an eventual oil leakage, when carrying out the servicing
operations, never touch the valve regulating the gas pressure.
3-9

SECTION 4
INTENTIONALLY BLANK

ENGINE REMOVAL - INSTALLATION 5
Section - Page
Working procedures 5-1

Engine removal 5-2
Engine installation 5-3

Working procedures
All operations must be carried out in a clean environment.

After disassembly of the parts, wash all components in kerosene or other
solvent (never use petrol) and blow dry by compressed air.
Carbon deposits are removed with a brush having brass bristles or a scraper
with chamfered corners.
All operations must be carried out in a precise order; mark all components to
be removed one at a time, or place them in separate containers so as to mount
them in the same position as prior to disassembly.
Pay attention to the position of the component prior to removal so as to mount
it correctly upon reassembly.
The timing belt is never to come into contact with oil, petrol or grease and is to
be handled with clean hands only. Avoid bending or twisting the belt.
Gudgeon pin snap rings, gaskets, oil seals and rubber ring seals must be
substituted at every disassembly.
Lubricate all moving components prior to assembly.
Spring washers must always be installed with the convex side facing out.
5-1

ENGINE REMOVAL
Hold the motorcycle by means of a support.

Remove the saddle.
Remove the fairing.
Remove the fuel tank.
Remove the side protection.
Remove the crankcase under protection and the lower cradle.
Loosen and remove the plug in order to drain the engine oil.
Remove the radiator plug and loosen the screws on thermostat; then drain the
coolant liquid.
Remove the exhaust pipe.

Disconnect the spark plug, tachometer and starter engine wires.
Loosen and remove the carburettor to cylinder head intake sleeves securing
clamps.
Disconnect the rear brake pedal.
Remove the chain pinion protection.
Remove the chain pinion (fig. 2).

Remove the flywheel cover (fig. 3).
Disconnect the water temperature, oil pressure and speed neutral position
indicator switch wires.
Disconnect the engine breather hose.

Disconnect the clutch cable.
Remove the engine cooling liquid sleeves.
Loosen the engine support bolts under the cylinder head.

Loosen and remove the bolts securing the engine to the frame.
Remove the support bolts under the cylinder head.
Remove the engine sideways by lowering it slightly and turning towards the left
side.
5-2

ENGINE INSTALLATION
Install the engine in reverse order of disassembly.
Never re-use the same exhaust pipe gasket.
Tighten the bolts to the appropriate torque.

Arrange all cables and wiring correctly.
Carry out the following checks and adjustment:
Engine oil level.
Throttle grip free travel.
Transmission chain.
Rear brake free travel.
Electrical system.
Cooling system.
Idle speed RPM
5-3

GENERATOR - TIMING BELT - GEARBOX SELECTOR 6
Section - Page
Disassembly 6-1
Inspection 6-2
Reassembly 6-2
Valve timing 6-2

DISASSEMBLY
Remove generator cover mounting bolts together with stator and remove cover
(fig. 1).
Remove the timing belt cover; loosen idler roller nut and position the idle roller
in such a way as to permit the belt to come off the cam pulleys (fig. 2).
Block generator rotor with special tool 19.1.20521, then loosen the mounting
bolt (fig. 3).
Protect the crankshaft end with the threaded pad (special tool 19.1.20513) and
remove the generator rotor with the extractor 19.1.20501 (figs. 4-5-6).
Pull off the two spring washers and the large guide washer from the crankshaft
end. Remove the timing belt (figs. 7-8).
Loosen the block side cover mounting bolts and remove cover (fig. 9).
Slide out the gearshift pedal shaft, together with selector drum assembly (fig.
10).
Remove selector drum cam central bolt (fig. 11).
Remove crankshaft pinion using extractor 19.1.20514 (figs. 12-13).
Remove the electric starter’s freewheel/driven gear, complete with bushing
and caged needle bearing, from the balanced auxiliary shaft after having
removed its fastening bolt and spring washer. Lastly, remove the triangular
shaped washer (figs. 14-15-16).
6 - 1,1

6 - 1,2

6 - 1,3

INSPECTION
All removed components must be inspected carefully after having been

thoroughly cleaned with kerosene or other solvent and dried with compressed
air. All parts that show signs of damage or wear must be replaced.
Be sure the pinion teeth aren’t excessively worn, freewheel group functions
properly (roller race must not show signs pitting, grooving or similar damage),
as well as the selector drum group.
REASSEMBLY
Reassemble all components in reverse order of disassembly; pay close

attention to the following:
Replace the block’s left side cover gasket and the O-ring found behind the final
drive pinion.
Mount the pinion mounting bolt spring washer, of the freewheel starter group
and generator rotor, with the convex side facing out.
The two pinion mounting bolt spring washers, found behind the generator
rotor, and the timing belt’s large guide washer must be mounted as shown in
fig. 17.
The gap between the pick-up and rotor plate must be between 0.4 and 0.5
mm.
The drum selector control device may be adjusted if necessary. Select either
2nd, 3rd or 4th gear and verify that (in the rest position) either extremity of the
lever is at the same distance to the drum’s adjacent drag grain. Adjustment is
made by turning the cam screw (on the lever) after having loosened the lock
nut.
VALVE TIMING
Put piston at TDC (indicated by aligning the reference mark on the generator
rotor with the fixed mark, as shown in fig. 18.
Place the camshafts with their reference marks facing as shown in fig. 19.
This operation must be carried out without actuating the valves (rotate it clock-
wise or counter-clockwise as necessary).
Install the timing belt and take up the slack with the tensioner pulley.
After loosening the fastening nut, the calibrated spring will set the tensioner
pulley automatically. Be sure to let the belt align on the cam pulleys by turning
the crankshaft several times prior to fastening the nut.
After having fastened the nut, make sure the pulley reference marks align with
the fixed ones. Torque the nut to between 28 and 30 Nm.
Always replace the timing belt according to the scheduled maintenance (every
12,000 km).
The timing belt is never to come in contact with oil, petrol or grease and is to
be handled with clean hands only. Avoid bending or twisting the belt.
The belt must be installed by hand, that is, do not use screwdrivers or other
tools.
6-2

TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
Freewheel fastening bolt (lubricate thread with oil) 40 Nm.

Generator rotor fastening bolt (lubricate thread with oil) 40 Nm.
Chain sprocket fastening bolt (use Loctite 270) 40 Nm.
Selector cam fastening bolt 40 Nm.
Tensioner pulley fastening nut 28-30 Nm.
6-3

CYLINDER HEAD - VALVETRAIN COMPONENTS 7
Section - Page
Diagram 7-1
Disassembly 7-2
Inspection 7-2
Reassembly 7-3

7-1

DISASSEMBLY
Pull off the water passage coupler mounted on the right side of the head and
remove the O-ring found under the coupler fitting (fig. 1).
Remove timing belt cover; loosen idle roller nut and position the idle roller in
such a way as to permit the belt to come off the two cam pulleys (fig. 2).
Loosen the cylinder head nuts gradually and uniformly. This operation must
be executed in a diagonal crossed sequence.
Remove the head by carefully lifting it from its cylinder. If necessary loosen
the head by hitting it with a plastic mallet (fig. 3).
Block the two camshaft pulleys with special tool 19.1.00504, then loosen the
pulley bolts. Remove bolts with its washers and pull off the pulleys (figs. 4-5).
Remove the cover plate of the rocker arm shaft retainer bushing (fig. 6).
Remove the cylinder head cover and remove the camshafts with their oil seals
(figs. 7-8)
Remove the valve lifter device (found on the left hand side of head, near the
exhaust valve) by extracting the retainer pin (fig. 9). The little shaft together
with the lifter may now be dismantled by hand.
Extract the retainer bushing and intake rocker arm shaft (use an 8mm bolt with
a 1.25 pitch) and remove the two rocker arms together with spacer washers
and spring. Repeat same procedure for the exhaust side (fig. 10).
Compress each valve spring with special tool 19.1.20519, by pressing on
spring retainer with enough pressure to remove the collets. Next, remove the
spring retainer and the two outer/inner springs (figs. 11-12).
Slide out the valve from the guide; remove the oil seal (found on the upper
part of the guide and spring seat). Repeat same procedure for the other
valves (fig. 13).
Loosen nut and remove the belt tensioner pulley and spring (fig. 14).
7 - 2,1

7 - 2,2

7 - 2,3

INSPECTION
After a thorough cleaning of all parts, place the components on the bench and
inspect them carefully. All those parts that show signs off wear and/or damage
must be replaced.
Head
Scrape the surface and remove traces of head gasket and remove all carbon
deposit in the combustion chamber. Be certain that all contact surfaces are in
good condition and that the combustion chamber shows no sign of cracks or
deep scratches (especially around the valve seats).
Check that the head surface is not warped by means of a straight gauge.
Max. planning error = 0.05 mm.
The surface may be planed to a max. of 0.2 mm if necessary.
Caution: do not machine the top surface of the head: this may cause the
shafts to lock.
Valves
Valve stems and seats must be in good condition.
Make sure that end of the stem doesn’t show signs of excessive wear.
In the event of valve seat wear, resurface by grinding.
Check that the valve stem is straight.
Max. straightness error allowed = 0.01 mm (fig. 15).
The face must be radial with respect to the stem (fig. 16).
Valve seat must be in good shape, with no sign of pitting, cracking or corrosion
Springs
After visual inspection of the springs and valves, measure the length of each
spring with a gauge (fig. 17).
Allowed values: Outer spring 38.7 ÷ 39.7 mm
Inner spring 37.6 ÷ 38.6 mm
Rocker arms
Make sure the runners (where the camshaft lobes hit against) are in good
condition and don’t have deep scratches, grooves or the like. Check for
excessive gap between rocker arm and shaft.
Max, gap = 0.08 mm
Camshaft
Make sure the camshaft lobes are in good condition, with no sign of damage or
Wear. Measure the height of each lobe. Check cam height on both sides; the
difference between both readings should not exceed 0.1 mm (fig. 18).
Check for excessive gap of the camshaft journals in their respective supports.
Max. radial clearance = 0.1 mm
7 - 2,4

7 - 2,5

REASSEMBLY
Assemble in reverse order of disassembly. Pay close attention to the following

points:
Every component must be installed in the same position before it was
removed. This is most important for rocker arms, valves, spring retainer and
collets.
Do not mix the two camshaft pulleys: the one marked with an “S” is for
exhaust: the one marked with an “A” is for intake.
Oil all moving components before mounting.
There is no gasket between the cam cover and the head; use Loctite 574.
Always use new oil seals for both valve guides and camshafts (for the latter,
use special tool 19.1.20502, for the former use special tool 19.1.20503). Oil
the lip seal before mounting.
Install the head gasket; make sure the correct side is facing up. All contact
surfaces must be clean and in good condition (fig. 19).
Between head and cylinder there are four rubber anti vibration devises that are
Installed after positioning the head gasket.
The head bolts are tightened in an even and progressive fashion, using a
crossed diagonal sequence and to the prescribed torque.
Camshaft pulley mounting screws * 30 Nm

Head mounting bolts 32 ÷ 35 Nm
Cam cover mounting screws 7 ÷ 9 Nm
* Always oil threads and washers
7-3

CYLINDER - PISTON 8
Section - Page
Diagram 8-1
Disassembly 8-2
Inspection 8-2
Reassembly 8-2

8-1

DISASSEMBLY
Remove the head group, gasket and rubber anti-vibration devises, as de-
scribed in section 7.
Remove the water pump, found on the left of the cylinder (fig. 1).
Remove the thermostat’s housing on the front of the cylinder (fig. 2).
Lift the cylinder by hand. If necessary, use a plastic or rubber mallet to break
the seal (fig. 3).
After having removed the cylinder, cover the opening of the crankcase with pa-
per or clean cloth, then remove the gudgeon pin lockring (fig. 4) and slide out
pin using special tool 19.1.20530 as a punch.
If necessary use a mallet (remember to support the piston on the other side)
(fig. 5).
Remove the base gasket of the cylinder and the rubber O-ring, found around
the oil feed line (fig. 6).
INSPECTION
After a thorough cleaning of all parts, all components must go through a

careful visual inspection. Replace all parts that show sign of damage and/or
wear. Careful attention goes to cylinder wall, piston surfaces, rings and
gudgeon pin, with no signs of scoring, deep grooves, shrinkage or any other
damage.
Cylinder
Measure bore diameter (with a micrometer) at three different heights and at

90° to one another (one measurement must be parallel to the gudgeon pin) in
order to see excessive ovalisation and taper. If excessive wear is noted, both
cylinder and piston must be replaced (fig. 7).
Max. taper = 0.02 mm
Max. ovalisation = 0.01 mm
Piston
Piston diameter is measured at 90° to the gudgeon pin and again at 12 mm

(350cc) and 7 mm (500cc) from the base of the skirt, using a micrometer
(fig. 8).
Min. clearance (service limit) = 0.1 mm
8 - 2,1

8 - 2,2

Piston rings
The rings are removed only when necessary.

These components are very fragile and must be removed and installed very
carefully.
To check for ring wear, take each ring and place it “squarely” inside the lower
part of the cylinder. Measure the end gap with a feeler gauge (fig. 9).
Max. gap = 0.8 mm (350cc) 1 mm (500cc)
Make sure the rings have play (but not excessive) in their grooves (see over-
haul table on page 1 - 5 (PISTON/CYLINDER MATCHING CHART)
Gudgeon pin
Make sure the gudgeon pin doesn’t have an excessive radial clearance, both
around the connecting rod and piston.
Max. clearance piston / gudgeon pin = 0.06 mm
Max. clearance small end / gudgeon pin = 0.08 mm
For the most part, a satisfactory check can be carried out by sliding the gud-
geon pin (with little effort and no lubrication) into the piston and the same gud-
geon pin must not slide out by its own weight.
The water pump cannot be overhauled; if found damaged or worn, it must be

replaced as a unit.
Check that the thermostat isn’t damaged or scaled.
Verify that it starts to open at 75°C and that it is fully opened at 85°C.
Check condition of the thermostat’s O-ring.
REASSEMBLY

points:
Piston rings are installed in a specific order and direction. The first two rings
are marked with the letters “TOP 2” and “TOP” for the first and second ring re-
spectively the scraper ring is installed with the chamfered side up. (This ex-
actly how it appears in the official manual, however the consensus of opinion is
that it should read “TOP and TOP 2”).
The piston must be installed in one direction only; the 350cc engine has arrow
marked on top of piston; for the 500cc engine, mark piston before removal.
Always use new gaskets, O-rings and gudgeon pin lockrings.
Thoroughly oil the cylinder wall before fitting the piston; piston rings end gap
must be spaced throughout the circumference of the piston.
Do not forget the rubber O-ring that is placed around the oil feed line at the
base of the cylinder.
The cylinder is mounted to the base with two bushing guides around the two
studs.
The starter motor’s idler gear bolt is mounted with the milled part facing up (fig.
11).
8 - 2,3

8 - 2,4

CLUTCH - PRIMARY DRIVE - OIL PUMP 9
Section - Page
Diagram 9-1
Disassembly 9-2
Inspection 9-2
Reassembly 9-3
Torque wrench setting 9-3
7 - 1,5

9-1

DISASSEMBLY
Drain the oil.

Loosen the kick starter bolt; remove cover plate mounting screws and remove
right side cover of the engine block.
Remove the seeger ring and the thrust bearing (fig. 1).
Block the drive gear of the primary drive with special tool 19.1.20515.
Remove clutch assembly mounting screw and washer (fig. 2).
Remove clutch hub together with clutch plate, pressure plate and driving plate
(fig. 3).
Remove the gearbox mainshaft, washer, clutch drum and spacer (fig. 4).
Remove the kick starter shaft (fig. 5).
Loosen the balance shaft fastening bolt (fig. 6)
Remove mounting screw and spring washer and slide out the drive gear from
the crankshaft of the primary drive. Remove special tool 19.1.20515 (figs. 7-8-
9).
Remove the oil pump assembly complete with drive pinion (fig. 10).
Take off the pump’s rear cover and slide out the washer of the mainshaft.
Slide out both drive and driven gears from the balance shaft (fig. 11).
Remove the spacer washer near the right main bearing (fig. 9).
INSPECTION
After a thorough cleaning of all parts, inspect all components carefully. All
those parts that show sign of wear and/or damage must be replaced. All gears
must be in good condition, with no sign of wear, deep scratches or pitting.
Clutch
The drum notches must be perfectly straight. If there is pitting or undulations,

replace drum.
If the flexible coupling springs seat is worn, replace drum.
The clutch hub slot must have its sides perfectly straight. If there is pitting or
undulation, replace hub.
The metal driven plate must be perfectly plane. Check it with a surface plate.
Max. planning error = 0.1 mm.
Make sure the plates don’t show signs of overheating.
Measure the drive plate gap with a gauge (fig. 12).
Min. gap = 2.7 mm.
If one or more plates show sign of wear or deformation, all plates must be
replaced; it is recommended to replace the springs too.
9 - 2,1

9 - 2,2

9 - 2,3

REASSEMBLY

points:
The crankshaft thrust ring is installed with the grooves facing out and it’s notch
in the cover’s seat.
When mounting the balance shaft, align it properly. To do this, align the
internal markings with the ones on the shaft together with the external
markings, as shown in (fig. 13).
N.B.: This engine is without balance shaft mark.
In this case the teeth inner surface present a triangular groove.
Operate in way that the groove is aligned with the balance shaft mark (fig. 14).
Mount the clutch drum by inserting the oil pump pawl guide into its seat.
The clutch drive plates are installed with the arrow (imprinted on the friction
material) facing out.
Install the spring washers with the convex side facing out.
Oil all washers, gear mounting bolt threads and clutch hub, prior to assembly.
TORQUE WRENCH SETTING
Primary drive gear mounting bolts * 40 Nm

Balance shaft gear mounting bolts * 40 Nm
Clutch hub mounting bolts * 40 Nm
* Always oil threads and washers
9-3

CRANKCASE - GEARBOX -
CRANKSHAFT COMPONENTS 10
Section - Page
Diagram 10 - 1
Disassembly 10 - 2
Inspection 10 - 3
Reassembly 10 - 3
Torque wrench settings 10 - 3
10

10 - 1

DISASSEMBLY
Make sure all necessary components are removed, then remove all bolts that
join the two halves of the cases. Open the crankcase and if necessary use a
plastic or rubber mallet to loosen it (carefully hit at the joint of the cases and/or
at the end of the gearbox shafts).
When separating the cases (fig. 1), check to see if a spacer washer (from one
of the shafts) has fallen out; reinstall if necessary.
Slide out the gear selector fork shaft and remove the forks (fig. 2).
Remove the selector drum, balance shaft and the two gear train shafts (figs. 3-
4-5).
Remove crankshaft with connecting rod (fig. 6). Loosen the nuts of the
connecting rod caps and remove the connecting rod from the shaft (fig. 7).
10 - 2,1

10 - 2,2

INSPECTION
After a thorough cleaning of all parts, inspect all components carefully.

All those parts that show sign of wear and/or damage must be replaced.
Crankshaft
The crankshaft must be replaced if found damaged or worn.
Connecting rod
Install the half bearings and mount the connecting rod cap by tightening the
nuts to the proper torque setting (28 to 32 Nm). Measure the internal
diameter of the bearing with a micrometer.
Once the bearing and shaft journal diameter is known, it is possible to
calculate the radial clearance of the two components.
Clearance at mounting: 0.017 to 0.060 mm.
Max. clearance: 0.14 mm.
If it is necessary to replace the wrist pin, use special tool 19.1.20506 for
removal; to install use special tool 19.1.20505. Be careful to align the pin
lubrication hole with the one in the small end.
Connecting rod cap radial gap must be between 0.15 ÷ 0.25 mm.
It is recommended to replace connecting rod bolts at every overhaul.
Note the fitting of the connecting rod cap; mount the connecting rod in the
same direction it was taken out.
Gearbox
Make sure the selector forks aren’t bent and move freely on their shaft and that
there is a minimum clearance in each of the guide bolts inside the slot of the
selector drum.
Verify that the gap between the fork and gear train slot isn’t excessive.
Check carefully the condition of the gear train and be sure that the mainshaft,
transmission and fork shafts are perfectly straight.
Max. straightness error = 0.05 mm
10 - 3,1

Crankcase
Accurately measure the internal diameter of each main journal with a

micrometer.
Diameter at mounting = 40.030 ÷ 40.046 mm.
Once the bearing and main journal internal diameter is known, it is possible to
calculate the gap of the two components.
Clearance at mounting = 0.030 ÷ 0.059 mm.
Max. clearance = 0.080 mm.
If it is necessary to replace the gearbox shaft rolling bearings, selector drum

and balance shaft, the cases must be heated uniformly (it is recommended the
use of an oven at 130°C, in order to avoid warpage).
Use extractor 19.1.20528 to remove the left case roller cage.
REASSEMBLY

points:
Crankshaft, balance shaft and gears are all mounted in the left crankcase.
Use Loctite 574 on the contact surface of the two cases.
The crankshaft thrust ring is installed in the right case (with the antifriction
surface side facing the shaft) and so is the selector drum spacer washer. Hold
these components in with a little grease.
Crankshaft axial clearance must be between 0.05 and 0.25 mm; if necessary
replace worn thrust rings with new ones.
To mount the oil seals, use a proper hollow punch; be careful not to damage
the lip seal by pits or grooves on the shaft (in such cases, it is best to use a
conical guide protection).
Oil the oil seal lips with engine oil.
Connecting rod cap mounting nuts: 28 ÷ 32 Nm.

Lubricate threads.
10 - 3,2

FRAMES
Section
Front wheel 12
Front suspension - Steering 13
Rear suspension - Rear wheel 14
Brakes 15

WORKING PROCEDURES 11
All operations must be carried out in a clean environment.
After disassembly of parts, wash all components in kerosene or other solvent

(never use petrol) and blow dry with compressed air.
All operations must be carried out in a precise order; mark all components to
be removed one at a time, or place them in separate containers so as to mount
them in the same position as prior to disassembly.
Pay attention to the position of the component prior to removal so as to mount

it correctly upon reassembly.
Lubricate all moving components prior to assembly.
Spring washers must always be installed with the convex side facing out.
11

FRONT WHEEL 12
Section - Page
Diagram 12 - 1
Disassembly 12 - 2
Reassembly 12 - 2
Technical data 12 - 3
Trouble shooting 12 - 4
12

12 - 1

DISASSEMBLY
Disconnect the speedometer cable.

Loosen the lock-spindle screws on the right side.
By means of a pin, loosen and slide out the wheel spindle.
Remove the wheel.
Warning: After the wheel removal, never move the front brake lever.
This is to facilitate, when installing, the disc fitting into the pads.
Spindle straightness inspection
Place the spindle on two “V” shaped supports, then, by means of a gauge,
measure its eccentricity (fig. 13).
Allowable limit: 0.20 mm.
Rim
Place the wheel on a centering bench, then check rim centering. Rotate the
wheel by hand, then, by means of a gauge, note the out centering value with a
gauge (fig. 14).
Allowable limit: Radial variation 2.00 mm. Axial variation 2.00 mm.
Bearing inspection
Rotate, with a finger, each bearing inner race. The bearings must turn
smoothly and without noise, assure that the outer race is correctly housed on
wheel hub.
In case that the bearing races don’t turn freely and without noise, remove and
replace the bearings.
Brake disc inspection
Measure the brake disc thickness.

Allowable limit: 4.0 mm RC600 89/90
4.5 mm RC600 91
5.0 mm RC600 R
Check the brake disc planarity (fig. 15).
Allowable limit: 0.025 mm. RC600 89/90
0.100 mm. RC600 91
0.200 mm. RC600 R
Bearing dismantling
Remove the tachometer gear dust protection seal.

Remove the wheel bearings and the spacer bushing from the wheel hub.
Warning: Never re-use the removed bearings.
12 - 2

Bearings reassembly
Fill, with grease, the bearing housing. First insert the right side bearing, then
the spacer and, finally, the left side bearing.
Apply grease inside to the dust protection seal. Fit the dust protection seal.
Install the tachometer gear seal into the wheel hub, aligning the tags with the
grooves. Fill with grease the tachometer gear box, then fit the box on the
wheel hub, aligning the tags with the grooves.
WHEEL INSTALLATION
Pay attention to don’t damage the brake pads when fitting the calliper on brake
disc. Prior to fit the wheel spindle, clean carefully.
Lightly tighten the nuts securing the spindle caps.
Tighten the wheel spindle to the appropriate torque.

After the wheel installation, always check the proper brake functioning.
In order to set the wheel spindle, move the brake act on fork, up and down, for
several times.
Lock the nuts securing the spindle caps with the appropriate torque.
Connect the speedometer cable to the drive pinion.
TECHNICAL DATA
Allowable limit:
Wheel spindle runout 0.2 mm.
Wheel rim centering limit 2 mm. 12 - 3

TROUBLE SHOOTING
Stiff steering:
Steering bearing adjusting ring nut too tight.

Faulty steering sleeve bearings.
Tyre pressure too low.
Tends to steer to one side and has poor handling:
Bent front forks.

Bent front wheel spindle.
Wheel not mounted properly.
Different quantity of oil in the two fork legs.
Front wheel oscillation:
Bent rim.
Worn front wheel bearings.
Damaged tyre.
Incorrectly torqued wheel spindle.
Suspension too soft:
Insufficient fork oil.

Fork oil too thin.
Weakened fork springs.
Suspension too hard:
Too much fork oil.

Fork oil too dense.
Damaged leg or stanchion.
Noisy front suspension:
Fork stanchion sticky.

Insufficient oil in forks.
Loose front fork bolts.
Poor braking performance:
Missing or insufficient brake fluid.

Worn brake pads.
Worn brake disc.
The use of a proper support is necessary when working on the front wheel or
forks.
12 - 4

SUSPENSION - STEERING 13
Section - Page
Handlebar 13 - 1
Steering sleeve 13 - 2
Paioli fork 13 - 4
13

FRONT SUSPENSION - STEERING 13
HANDLEBAR
Removal
Remove the clamps, the clutch lever, the front brake master cylinder, lights,
switches and throttle grip.
Remove the upper plates, caps and the handlebar (fig. 31).
Installation
Check that the rubber washers, placed between the fork upper plate and the
handlebar lower supports, are not worn. In case, replace them.
Apply a thin layer of grease on the sliding surface of the throttle grip and on the
throttle control box and slide the grip along the handlebar.
Fit the choke and throttle control on the handlebar.
Fit the handlebar on the lower supports.

Fit the upper supports on the handlebar.
Tighten first the front side bolts, then tighten the rear side bolts to the suitable
torque.
Fit the switch on the left side of handlebar by aligning the dowel with the
handlebar hole, then tighten first the front side screw and then the rear side
screw.
Arrange the electrical wires, securing them with the clamps.
Fit the brake master cylinder.
Fit the clutch lever holder.
Adjust the throttle cable.
13 - 1

STEERING SLEEVE
After disassembling the fairing components, the wheel; and the handlebar, dis-
connect the electrical connections, then:
Unscrew the steering sleeve nut then remove the washer.

Remove the fork upper plate.
Remove the steering nut.
Remove the upper bearing.
Slide off the fork unit (with steering sleeve) from lower side.
By means of a punch, push out the bearings upper and lower ring nuts (fig.
18). When replacing, change always both together, bearing and ring nut.
By means of an appropriate punch, fit the new ring nut
In case of road accident, check for cracks around the motorcycle steering
head.
By means of the special tool 19.1.20109, remove the lower bearing race from
the steering sleeve.
Using an hydraulic press, fit a new bearing.
Fill with AGIP MU-EP/3 grease, the bearings housing.
Install the steering sleeve into its housing then fit the upper bearing.
Tighten the steering nut.
Turn, several times, the steering from one to other side, then tighten again the
adjusting ring nut; finally check that the steering rotates freely.
Fit the fork upper plate, the washer and nut, tightening them to the appropriate
torque.
Install all the components in reverse order of disassembly.
13 - 2

TROUBLE SHOOTING
Stiff steering:
Steering bearing adjusting ring nut too tight.

Faulty steering sleeve bearings.
Tyre pressure too low.
Motorcycle tends to steer to one side and has poor handling:
Bent front fork.

Bent front wheel spindle.
Wheel not fitted correctly.
Unlike quality of oil in the fork legs.
Motorcycle oscillations and vibrations:
Deformed rim.
Loose or worn wheel bearings.
Defective tyre.
Wrong tyre pressure.
Slack and/or deformed spokes.
Slack wheel spindle.
Incorrect wheel balancing.
Suspension too soft:
Insufficient quantity fork oil.

Fork oil too fluid.
Weakened fork springs.
Suspension too stiff:
Too much quantity fork oil.

Fork oil too dense.
Damaged legs or stanchions.
Noisy front suspension:
Blocked fork legs.

Poor quantity of fork oil.
Loose front fork bolt.
Poor braking performance:
Missing or poor quantity of brake fluid.

Worn brake pads.
Worn brake disc.
When working on front wheel or front forks, support suitably the motorcycle.
13 - 3

PAIOLI FORK
After the front fairing parts removal, remove the upper and lower screws fixing
the stanchion to the fork plates, then remove the stanchion.
Oil seal removal and replacement (fig. 36)
Loosen the upper plug “A” then, when holding the plug, untighten the inner
stanchion locking nut “B” and overturn the leg, draining the oil.
Slide out the dust protection “C” and the lock ring;
Place the leg in a vice and, forcing, pull it out.
After the leg has been pulled out, on force tube “F” will remain the following
parts: oil seal “D”, the washer, the DU leg “E”.
Prior to reassembly, clean all components.
INSTALLATION
Fit on tube “F” the hydraulic seal system (parts “D-F-E”0 paying attention to the
correct fitting position.
By means of the special tool 19.1.20598, press the different components in
their housing, paying attention that the special tool doesn’t push the seal lip.
Fill the oil (see page 1 - 3,1)
Fully tighten the lock nut “B” then screw the plug “A” to the torque 2 Kgm.
Extend completely the fork, then screw the plug “A” on the leg.
Right side leg (mechanical)
After the parts “A” and “B” removal, using the special tool 19.1.20599, loosen
the plug “G”.
Slide out the rod “H” together with the plug, spring and the mechanical piston.
Remove the spring “L” then wash the tube inner side.
When fitting, operate on reverse order of disassembly, locking the plug “G” to
the torque 4 Kgm.
Left side leg (hydraulic)
After the parts “A” and “B” removal, using the special tool 19.1.20599, loosen
the plug “M” then slide out the inner rod “N” together with hydraulic cartridge
“O”.
Drain the oil.
Remove the lock ring, loosen the plugs “P” and “Q”.
Remove the spring pin “Z” fixing the plug “R”.
Slide out rod “N”.
13 - 4,1

In order to avoid any abnormal leakages, it is suitable to don’t carry out
the thin plates locking too strong.
Installation (fig.36)
Insert the rod “N” together with the thin plates into the hydraulic cartridge “O”.
Fit on the rod the lower plug “Q” together with the relevant bushing, then install
the lock ring.
Tighten the plug “P” into the plug “Q”, the inner bushing must slide freely.
Tighten the plug “R”, paying attention to align the spring pin hole with the
hydraulic cartridge hole “Z”.
Insert a new spring ring, sticking out about 3 ÷ 4 mm.
Insert the complete hydraulic cartridge, then, by means of the appropriate tool,
screw the plug “M”.
Carry out the same operations on reverse order of disassembly.
13 - 4,2

.REAR SUSPENSION - WHEEL 14
Section - Page
Troubleshooting 14 - 1
Wheel 14 - 1
Rear damper 14 - 2
Final drive 14 - 3
14

TROUBLESHOOTING
Motorcycle oscillations and vibrations
Deformed rim
Loose or worn wheel bearings
Defective tyre
Incorrect tyre pressure
Incorrect chain adjustment cams
Slack wheel spindle
Worn fork spindle bearings
Frame of fork deformation
Incorrect wheel balancing
Suspension too soft
Weakened spring
Poor quantity of fork oil
Suspension too stiff
Bent absorber shock rod
Worn or damaged suspension rods or folk bolt bearings
Suspension noisy
Slack joint links
Defective absorber shock leg
Worn suspension link bushings
WHEEL REMOVAL AND CHECKS

Removal
By means of an appropriate support, lift the motorcycle wheel.
Loosen the adjusting nuts to the fork end (fig. 46).
Loosen and remove the wheel spindle nut, using a rubber hammer.
Moving forward the spindle, remove the chain from the rim then place the
chain on fork left side arm.
Paying attention on the brake pad and support, remove the wheel.
Installation
Pay attention to the rear wheel spindle washer correct position.
When reassembling, operate on reverse order of disassembly.
14 - 1

REAR ABSORBER SHOCK
The rear shock absorber is constituted by an oil dynamic unit, with an

additional tank (for the Nordwest model, is without tanks), and normally is
without any servicing.
The spring pre-load can be adjusted by means of two ring nuts situated on the
upper side (fig. 47).
The pre-load is calculated for a rider having 70 kg weight.
Technical data
Shock absorber Gas Press.
Azota
Boghe 15 atm.
/Air
14 - 2

FINAL DRIVE
Drive chain
Chain life depends on lubrication and appropriate tension. Neglecting the

above mentioned checks will result in wear and damage of both the drive and
driven sprockets thereby compromising motorcycle performance.
A chain inspection must be carried out prior to riding off. Chain adjustment
must be executed every 2,000 km.
If the motorcycle is subjected to continuous heavy operation or used mostly in
dusty areas, chain maintenance must be carried out more frequently.
Chain, drive and driven sprockets inspection
Inspect carefully the teeth on both the drive and driven sprockets and check
the condition of the chain (fig. 4).
Replace any component that shows signs of excessive wear, deformation or
other damage.
Chain check
This operation must be executed with the motorcycle unloaded, placed

vertically and repeated for the different wheel positions, in order to check
driven sprocket runout.
The lower branch, when shifted up, half way between the drive/driven
sprockets, must give a chain deflection of 35 ÷ 40 mm.
If the chain loosens, this means that some links may be damaged or frozen.
Wear condition of the links, rollers and driven sprocket teeth must be
frequently inspected.
These components must be replaced when wear limit goes beyond the
indicated values (fig. 5).
14 - 3,1

Chain status inspection
If a part of the chain or the drive/driven sprockets show signs of wear, replace
components.
Check chain stiffness; if it is stiff, then clean with appropriate products or diesel
fuel and let dry thoroughly. Avoid “knots” and replace if chain remains stiff.
Check for possible damage to the side plates and for excessive play in the
pins and rollers. Replace chain if any damage is discovered.
Lubricate the chain with highly viscous oil (AGIP ROTRA SAE 80W/90) upon
installation and adjust for proper tension.
If it becomes necessary to go directly to chain lubrication thereby skipping the

above mentioned operations, a small amount of oil may be sprayed on the
chain (temporarily) while spinning the wheel.
Caution:
Never install a new chain on worn sprockets or a worn chain on new sprockets
as the new components will wear quickly.
14 - 3,2

.BRAKES
Section - Page
Working procedures 15 - 1
Master cylinder 15 - 2
Calliper 15 - 3
Disc 15 - 3
Pad replacement 15 - 5
15

WORKING PROCEDURES
Fluid drainage
Connect a tube to the bleeder valve.
Loosen the bleeder valve and pump with lever.
Stop pumping when no more fluid flows out of the bleeder valve.
Brake fluid spilled on the disc or pads will reduce braking capability. If this
should happen, throw away the pads and clean the disc thoroughly with a
proper solvent.
During the bleeding phase, always check fluid level to avoid getting air into the
master cylinder in the event of fluid depletion.
Brake fluid filling

Do not mix different types of brake fluid; they are not compatible.
Close the bleeder valve; fill main cylinder with DOT 4 brake fluid up to the
maximum level. Put the hydraulic brake system liquid under pressure with
either the brake lever or pedal until there are not any bubbles visible in the
reservoir small hole, and there is sufficient resistance coming from the lever or
pedal.
Use this procedure for all the disc brakes.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Brake pedal is soft or spongy

Air in the system.
Brake fluid too low.
Leakage in the hydraulic system.
Brake pedal is too hard.

Frozen pistons.
Hydraulic system is clogged.
Worn or glazed pads.
Brakes drag
Blocked hydraulic circuit.
Frozen pistons.
Brake sticks or pulls to one side.

Dirty pads.
Disc or wheel out of alignment.
Brakes vibrate or squeak.

Dirty pads.
Disc distorted.
Incorrectly installed calliper.
Disc or wheel out of alignment.
15 - 1

MASTER CYLINDER
Removal
Drain the brake fluid.

Disconnect the brake pipe by loosening the connecting nut.
Pay attention that the brake fluid does not come in contact with painted, plastic
or rubber parts. When operating on brake system, always protect the above
parts.
When removing the brake pipe, in order to avoid any fluid leakage, close the
pipe end and secure it.
Remove the pipe lever.
Disconnect the stop light switch connector, then remove the master cylinder.
Remove the piston protection from the master cylinder.
Remove the securing seeger ring, then remove piston and spring.
Using the brake fluid, clean the master cylinder inside, fluid tank, spring and
piston.
Check
Check that the master cylinder piston and cylinder don’t presents any linings
(fig. 30).
Piston outer diameter (fig. 31).
Wear limit allowable: 0.05 mm.
Prior to reassembly, check that the seals are not damaged.
Warning
Piston, master cylinder body and spring are not available as separate parts.
Installation
Prior to reassembly, moisten the parts using the brake fluid.

In order to not reverse the seal lips, fit carefully the seals.
Insert the piston in master cylinder.
Fit the protection.
Fit the brake lever and stop light switch connector.
Fit the brake master cylinder on the handlebar.
Connect the brake pipe to the connection, tightening to the appropriate torque.
Fill the tank with DOT 4 brake fluid and bleed the hydraulic system.
15 - 2

BRAKE CALLIPER
Removal
Place a clean container under the calliper, then disconnect the brake pipe.
Pay attention that brake fluid does not come in contact with painted parts.
Remove the calliper by loosening the securing screws to the fork (fig. 32) and
to the plate secured to the fork (fig. 33).
Remove the brake pads.
In order to facilitate the small pistons removal, blow compressed air into the
brake fluid inlet.
Check that the small pistons and the calliper are not damaged, in case,
replace.
In order to remove the piston oil seals, push towards the calliper inner side the
pistons oil seal.
By means of brake fluid, clean the piston grooves, paying attention to not dam-
age the piston sliding surfaces (on the calliper inner section).
Pistons check
Check that the pistons are not damaged (fig. 34).

Outer diameter (fig. 35) (section 1 technical data).
Allowable limit 0.05 mm.
Installation
Once removed, the pistons seals must always be replaced.

Prior to reassembly, moisten the oil seals using some brake fluid.
Install the pistons (pistons concave ends towards the pads).
Fit the protection rings, paying attention that they are housed on the calliper
grooves.
Fit the pads, pins and pad springs.
Fit the calliper on the disc, between the two pads.
Secure the calliper fixing screws to the fork with appropriate torque.
Fill the tank with DOT 4 brake fluid and bleed the hydraulic system.
DISC
Measure the brake disc thickness. Allowable wear limit 20% of the original
thickness (see technical data section 1).
Check the brake disc planarity (fig. 36).
Allowable oscillation limit: 0.15 mm.
15 - 3

.
15 - 4

PADS PLACEMENT
In order to obtain the correct pressure, always replace both pads together.
Warning
Always use GILERA original parts.
Grease on brake linings reduce he brake’s performance.
The procedures are the same for both brakes.

Remove the upper cover “A” (fig. 37), then dismantle the seeger ring “B”.
Remove the pin “C”, dismantle the spring “D” and the pads (figs. 38-39)
15 - 5

.BATTERY - CHARGING CIRCUIT 16
Section - Page
Battery voltage 16 - 1
Battery charging 16 - 1
Charging circuit 16 - 1
Battery removal 16 - 2
Battery installation 16 - 2
16

.BATTERY VOLTAGE
With the engine on “OFF” position, place the voltmeter red colour lead on the
battery positive (+) terminal and the black colour lead on the battery negative
(-) terminal. Battery voltage should be 12 ÷ 13 V.
When battery voltage is lower than 11 V, check the charging system.
Warning:
When the battery voltage is lower than 6 V, automatically a device will
stop the ignition.
BATTERY CHARGING
When the battery electrolyte specific gravity is too low, it is necessary to

charge the battery. Battery must be carried out with a slow charge, never with
a quick charge.
Remove the battery plugs.
Connect the positive (+) cable to the battery positive (+) terminal; connect the
negative (-) cable to the battery negative (-) terminal.
Charge the battery to the specific gravity 1,290 at 20°C with a charging
maximum current of 1.4 A. (10 hours).
After charging, the voltmeter indicator must be constant for at least an hour.
After charging, wash the battery with water.
Periodically check the electrolyte level.
CHARGING SYSTEM
Leakages checks
Prior to the regulated voltage check, control an eventual current leaks.

Turn the ignition switch to “OFF” position.
Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Connect the ammeter between the ground cable and the battery negative (-)
terminal. With the ignition switch in the “OFF” position, the ammeter must
indicate 0 ampere.
Charge circuit check
Before the following check procedures, ensure that the battery is in working
condition.
Warm up the engine.
Remove the saddle.
Connect the voltmeter (fig. 2).
Keep engine running at idle speed.
Slowly increase engine speed.
The regulated voltage should be 13.5 ÷ 14 V.
If the voltmeter indicates a different voltage, check the eventual wires for
disconnection or breaks.
If the wires are in perfect condition, replace the regulator rectifier and repeat
the same check. If voltage is still incorrect, check the alternator stator coil.
16 - 1,1

.
Rectifier check
It is a three-phase rectifier.
Check the diode’s efficiency by disconnecting the connector end (fig. 3).
Connect the positive (+) prod of the ohmmeter to the red wire and the negative
(-) one to the white wires (one at a time) (fig. 4). With efficient diodes, the
pointer should not move.
The same operation must be carried out on the black wire and the positive (+)
prod on the white wires (always one at a time). With efficient diodes, the
pointer should not move.
If during the test, the ohmmeter’s pointer moves, this means that the diode
considered is short-circuited.
To check if one of the diodes is discontinued, repeat same operation being
careful to reverse the prods of the ohmmeter and checking that the pointer
shows a resistance of 1000 ÷ 1500 Ω.
16 - 1,2

Alternator stator coil check
Disconnect the alternator wires (fig. 5).

Remove the alternator stator coil.
Check for continuity between the two wires of the alternator stator coil (fig. 6).
Check for continuity between the wires of the alternator stator rectifier (fig. 7).
Check if there is no continuity, on the contrary, between the above mentioned
stator coil wires and ground (figs. 8-9).
In case of no continuity between the stator coil and rectifier wires or if, vice
versa, in case of continuity between wires and ground, the stator itself should
be replaced.
16 - 1,3

WARNING
The electrolyte level must be checked periodically; top up with distilled water if
necessary.
Remove the battery from the frame when charging.
Keep battery away from sparks and flames due to the hydrogen produced by
the battery.
All charging components may be tested without removal.
TROUBLESHOOTING
No voltage with the key in the “ON” position:

Dead battery.
Disconnected battery cable.
Main fuse blown.
Defective ignition switch.
Low voltage with the key in the “ON” position:

Weak battery.
Battery incorrectly connected.
Defective charging system.
Low voltage with engine on:

Insufficiently charged battery.
Malfunction in the charging circuit.
BATTERY REMOVAL
Remove seat.
Remove the battery securing rubber band.
Disconnect the battery’s negative (-) and then positive (+) terminals.
Remove the battery.
Battery inspection
Check each element with a hydrometer.
Specific gravity: 1,270 ÷ 1,290 at 20°C.
If the specific gravity is under 1,230 the battery must be charged; specific
gravity varies according to temperature.
Replace battery if there is sulfation and if the space between the plates is full
of sediments.
Note:
The battery’s electrolyte contains sulphuric acid.
Always protect they eyes, skin and clothes. If electrolyte gets in the yes, flush
thoroughly with water and seek expert medical advice.
16 - 2,1

BATTERY REINSTALLATION
Install the battery in its compartment in the frame.

Connect the positive (+) cable to the battery’s positive (+) terminal; connect the
negative (-) cable to the battery’s negative (-) terminal.
Block the battery with securing rubber.
Apply some clean grease to the battery terminals.
Place the battery breather tube in it’s original position.
Mount the seat.
16 - 2,2

.CAPACITY
DISCHARGE IGNITION SYSTEM
& INDUCTIVE DISCHARGE IGNITION SYSTEM 17
Section - Page
Capacity discharge ignition
Description 17 - 1
Inspection 17 - 2
Spark plug 17 - 2
Inductive discharge ignition

Description 17 - 4
Inspection 17 - 5
Spark plug 17 - 5
17

CAPACITY DISCHARGE IGNITION SYSTEM
Description
This ignition system is capacitive discharge type. This ignition system is

constituted by a flywheel magneto, by a C.D.I. Box and an HT coil.
The tension, created by charging coil, is stored into a condenser.
The signal, created from pick-up windings, is sent to the electronic box which
discharge the condenser stored current on the HT coil primary winding; this
originates the spark to the spark plug.
Flywheel magneto
The flywheel magneto consists of a condenser charge windings and a pick-up

coil for the C.D.I. Control unit activation signal.
C.D.I. Control unit
The C.D.I. Box is an electronic device which arranges, by means of the pick-up
signal, to generate the pulse tension to the HT coil primary windings.
HT coil
Consists of a primary and secondary windings.
Revolution reductor
The revolution reductor is an electronic device reducing the engine revolutions

in order to avoid engine over revolution.
Spark plug
Spark plug: Champion RA4HC
Warning
Take note that no possibility to regulate the spark advance, being the fact
that the electronic control unit has not any adjusting device.
In case of incorrect spark advance, check the electronic control unit, the
ignition coil and the alternator.
17 - 1

CHECKS
The whole ignition system can be tested for eventual malfunctioning or weak
spark. If the electrodes generate a suitable spark, the whole electronic system
works regularly. If there is no spark, carry out the testing of each component
until the problem will be solved.
Follows the troubleshooting schedule until finding the trouble cause.
Ignition coil test

Connect the leads tester to the coil output wires (Pink-Green) in order to
determine the coil resistance and insulation (fig. 1).
Resistance value 218 Ω ± 10% at 20°C.
Insulation test: ensure that the ohmeter needle doesn’t move while plaing one
xlead to the groove.
Pick-up coil test

Place tester leads between the pick-up output wires in order to determine the
resistance and insulation.
Resistance value: 117 Ω ± 10% at 20°C.

Insulation test: ensure that the ohmmeter needle doesn’t move while placing
one lead to the ground (fig. 3).
17 - 2,1

HT Coil test
Remove the petrol tank and seat.
Disconnect the electrical wires and spark plug cap.
Remove the ignition coil.
Measure the resistance between coil terminal + and -.
Standard resistance: 0.2 ÷ 0.3 Ω ±10% at 20°C.
If there is no continuity, replace coil.
Measure the resistance between the electrical wire terminal and the high
tension wire without spark plug cap.
Standard value: 9.2 kΩ ± 10% at 20°C (fig. 4).
If the ohmic value is very different from the standard value, replace the coil.
CDI control unit test

The normal tester results are not reliable; therefore it is advisable to replace
the CDI control unit.
Revolution reduction test

The normal tester results are not reliable; therefore it is advisable to replace
the revolution reductor.
Spark plug cap resistance: 1 kΩ (fig. 5).

Replace if out of specification.
Spark plug
Check spark plug condition: in case it is
overheated, fouled or worn, replace it.
Measure electrode gap;
Gap 0.6 ÷ 0.7 mm.
If it is out of specification, clean and adjust it.
Spark plug must be checked every 1,000 km and replaced every 8,000 km.
Warning: The spark plug use, having different heat ranges or incorrect
thread, may cause serious damages to the engine.
17 - 2,2

TROUBLESHOOTING
The engine start to run but not regularly
The following parts could be faulty:

HT Coil.
Pulses generator.
Electronic control box.
Condenser charge unit.
HT cable.
Spark plug.
Loose wires.
Incorrect spark advance.
Loose or incorrectly fitted flywheel pulses generator.
Electronic control unit faulty.
Lack of spark to spark plug
Ignition not turned on.

Loose, broken or short-circuited electrical wires between;
Discharge device coil and ignition control unit.
Ignition control unit and engine stop switch.
Ignition control unit and spark plug.
Pulses generator and ignition control unit.
Ignition control unit and ignition coil.
Ignition coil faulty.

Ignition control unit faulty.
Discharge device coil faulty.
Pulses generator faulty.
17 - 3

INDUCTIVE DISCHARGE IGNITION SYSTEM
Description
The ignition system is inductive discharge type. This ignition system consists
of a control unit and HT coil. The impulsive tension is generated by control
unit; this control unit is supplied by the battery.
The pick-up signal is sent to the control unit.
Control unit
All the timings, spark advance, revolution reductor operations are carried out
by a microprocessor.
HT coil
The HT coil consists of a primary and secondary windings.
Spark plug
Warning
Take note that no possibility to regulate the spark advance, being the fact
that the electronic control unit has not any adjusting device.
In case of incorrect spark advance, check the electronic control unit, the
ignition coil and the alternator.
17 - 4

CHECKS
The whole ignition system can be tested for eventual malfunctioning or weak
spark. If the electrodes generate a suitable spark, the whole electronic system
works regularly. If there is no spark, carry out the testing of each component
until the problem will be solved.
Follows the troubleshooting schedule until finding the trouble cause.
Ignition coil test

Connect the leads tester to the coil output wires (Pink-Green) in order to
determine the coil resistance and insulation (fig. 1).
Resistance value 150 Ω ± 10% at 20°C.
Insulation test: connect one tester lead to the ground, ensure that the
ohmmeter does not move (fig. 3).
HT Coil test
Remove the petrol tank and seat.
Disconnect the electrical wires and spark plug cap.
Measure the resistance between ignition coil terminal + and -
Standard resistance: 4.0 Ω ±10% at 20°C.
If there is no continuity, replace coil.
Measure the resistance between the electrical wire terminal and the high
tension wire without spark plug cap.
Standard value: 13.8 kΩ ± 10% at 20°C (fig. 4).
If the ohmic value is very different from the standard value, replace the coil.
17 - 5,1

Control unit test
A common tester results isn’t able to take any readings; therefore it is
advisable to replace the CDI control unit.
Spark plug cap resistance: 1 kΩ (fig. 5).

Replace if out of specification.
Spark plug
Check spark plug condition: in case it is
overheated, fouled or worn, replace it.
Measure electrode gap;
Gap 0.6 ÷ 0.7 mm.
If it is out of specification, clean and adjust it.
Spark plug must be checked every 1,000 km and replaced every 8,000 km.
Warning: The spark plug use, having different heat ranges or incorrect
thread, may cause serious damages to the engine.
TROUBLESHOOTING
The engine start to run but not regularly
The following parts could be faulty:

Ignition Coil.
Control box.
Pick-up.
HT cable.
Spark plug.
Loose wires.
Incorrect spark advance.
Lack of spark to spark plug
Ignition not turned on.

Loose, broken or short-circuited electrical wires between;
Ignition coil and spark plug.
Pick-up and ignition control unit.
Control unit and ignition coil.
Ignition coil faulty.

Control unit faulty.
Pick-up faulty.
Attention: If the battery tension is lower than 6 V, the engine won’t start
due to a special device.
17 - 5,2

ELECTRIC STARTER 18
Section - Page
Starter motor 18 - 1
Casing insulation check 18 - 1
18

ELECTRIC STARTER 18
STARTER MOTOR
Removal
The electric starter may be removed with the engine in the frame.
Put ignition switch in the “OFF” position and disconnect the battery’s
negative (-) cable prior to starter motor maintenance.
Disconnect the starter’s cable.
Loosen the starter’s mounting bolts and remove the starter.
Remove the starter’s cover nuts and disassemble it completely (fig. 1).
Mark the position and the number of spacer washers.
Check the brushes and measure their length.
Check that the armature segments don’t show signs of overheating.
If the segments show signs of overheating in pairs, the windings are
leaking to ground.
Check the continuity in pairs of segments; there must be continuity
(fig. 2).
Check for continuity between the single segments and armature shaft;
there must not be continuity (fig. 3).
CASING INSULATION CHECK

Check for continuity between the cable terminal and starter casing and
between the cable terminal and brushes lead (fig. 4).
Replace starter if there is no continuity in the windings or if it’s shorted to
the casing.
Install the starter taking care in positioning the spacer washers.
Install the cover and fasten the two nuts.
Install the starter on engine and fasten mounting bolts.
Connect the supply cable to the starter and to the battery cable.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Starter motor doesn’t turn:
Weak battery
Ignition switch is defective
Starter motor switch is defective
Starter motor contactor is defective
Loose or disconnected wires or electrical cables
Starter motor turns engine slowly

Weak battery
Excessive resistance in the circuit
Locked starter motor
Starter motor turns, but engine doesn’t

Freewheel is defective
Starter motor gears are defective
Neutral gear or starter motor is defective 18 - 1,1

ELECTRIC STARTER 18
18 - 1,2

SWITCHES - HORN - LIGHTS 19
Section - Page
Working procedures 19 - 1
Instruments 19 - 1
Headlamp 19 - 1
Tail lamp 19 - 1
Turn signal indicators 19 - 1
Neutral switch 19 - 1
Temperature indicator 19 - 2
Oil pressure sensor 19 - 2
Reserve fuel indicator 19 - 2
Thermoswitch 19 - 2
Brake light switches 19 - 2
Horn 19 - 2
19

WORKING PROCEDURES
All the plastic plugs are fitted with blocking tongues that must be released
before removing the plugs and aligned when the plugs are re-connected.
In order to isolate an electrical problem, always check the continuity in
the current path.
A continuity check is usually executed without removing the component
from the motorcycle; simply disconnect the wires and connect them to a
tester connector or ohmmeter.
INSTRUMENTS
Remove the fairing and headlamp.
Disconnect the tachometer cable.
Disconnect the speedometer cable.
Remove the instruments mounting nuts.
Disconnect the instruments connector wires (fig. 1).
Remove the bulb sockets and replace the burned bulbs.
Remount the instrumentation in reverse order of disassembly.
HEADLAMP
Remove the fairing mounting bolts.
Remove the headlamp fairing, optic group and disconnect the bulb wires.
Remove the bulb cover and replace if necessary (fig. 2)
Remove the bulb holder with the “TOP” marking facing up.
Connect the wires to the bulbs.
Install the headlamp and fairing and fasten with its mounting bolts.
Adjust the position of the headlamp.
TAIL LAMP
Remove the rear lens cover screws.
Replace with new bulb if necessary (fig. 3).
Install rear lens cover.
TURN SIGNAL INDICATORS

Remove the turn indicator lens cover.
Replace bulb if necessary.
Install turn indicator lens cover.
NEUTRAL SWITCH
Disconnect the neutral switch connector.
Check for continuity between the wire and ground for each gear
selection.
The switch is working properly when there is continuity in the neutral
position and no continuity in any other gear.
19 - 1,1

19 - 1,2

TEMPERATURE INDICATOR
Disconnect the wire from the temperature sensor and ground it.
Turn the ignition switch to “ON”; the needle on the temperature indicator
must move to the “H” side (red). Do not ground the temperature sensor
wire for more than a few seconds or there may be damage to the
temperature gauge.
OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
Disconnect the oil pressure sensor wire.

Turn the ignition switch to “ON”.
Ground the sensor wire to the engine; the low oil warning light should turn
on. If not, check for a short or a disconnected wire or that the warning
light is not burned; replace bulb if necessary.
If the sensor, with switch in “ON” position and engine at stop, does not
show any continuity between main wire and ground, it should be
replaced.
RESERVE FUEL INDICATOR
Remove the reserve fuel sensor from the tank.

Move the float towards the threaded part of the sensor and connect the
two wire terminals to a tester.
There must be continuity.
THERMOSWITCH
The cooling fan motor is operated by a thermoswitch mounted on the

radiator. If the fan does not start, link the two wires connected to the
switch, with a spare wire.
Turn ignition to “ON”. The fan motor must turn. If it does not, check the
battery voltage between the connector and ground (ignition switch must
be “ON”).
If there is no voltage, check for a burned or defective fuse, or for a dis-
connected or short circuited connector,
If the fan turns, check the thermoswitch in the following manner:
Drain the cooling fluid.
Remove the thermoswitch from the radiator.
Heat the cooling fluid in a container and suspend the thermoswitch in it.
Check the temperature where the switch opens and closes.
Make sure there is no continuity at room temperature; gradually raise the
temperature of the cooling fluid.
The switch must have continuity at 92 ± 3°C.
19 - 2,1

BRAKE LIGHT SWITCHES
Front
Disconnect the switch wires and check for continuity.
The switch is working properly when there is continuity while actuating
the brake.
Rear
Disconnect the switch coupler and check for continuity in the wires.
The switch is working properly when there is continuity when actuating
the rear brake lever.
HORN
Remove the horn mounting bolt and remove horn.

Disconnect the wires to the horn and connect a fully charged 12 V battery
to the horn terminals; the horn should sound.
TROUBLESHOOTING
When ignition switch is “ON” the lights do not turn on:
Faulty or burned bulbs.

Defective switch.
Open or short circuits.
Burned fuse.
Loose, broken or shorted wires.
Battery weak or not connected.
All lights are on but are weak:
Battery weak or not connected.

Excessive resistance in the harness or switches.
High beam does not come on with ignition switched on.
High beam filament is burned.

Switch is defective.
19 - 2,2

TROUBLESHOOTING 20
Section - Page
Engine doesn’t start or starts with difficulty 20 - 1

Poor performance 20 - 2
Poor road handling 20 - 3
20

TROUBLESHOOTING 20
20 - 1

TROUBLESHOOTING 20
Continued on page 20 - 2,2
20 - 2,1

TROUBLESHOOTING 20
Continued from page 20 - 2,1
20 - 2,2

TROUBLESHOOTING 20
20 - 3

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 21
Section - Page
Wiring colours/list of components Nordwest/RC600 ‘91 21 - 1

Diagram 21 - 1
Wiring colours/list of components Nordwest / 600 93 21 - 2
Diagram 21 - 2
Wiring colours/list of components Inductive discharge 21 - 3
Diagram 21 - 3
21

NORDWEST / RC600 ‘91
WIRING COLOURS LIST OF ELECTRICAL SYSTEM COMPONENTS
A - Light Blue 1 Twin lamp lighting group 12V - 35/35W

Ar - Orange 2 Two level bulb 12V - 60/55W
AN - Light Blue/Black 3 Front parking light bulb 12V - 3W
B - White 4 Front and rear turn indicators
BI - Dark Blue 5 Blinker bulb 12V - 10W
BA - White/Light Blue 6 Multiple connectors
BN - White/Black 7 Handlebar light control left
BR - White/Red 8 Horn
BV - White/Green 9 Instrument light 12V - 1.2W
G - Yellow 10 Electronic revolution indicator
Gr - Grey 11 Water thermometer
GA - Grey/Light Blue 12 High-beam indicator light 12V - 1.2W
GB - Yellow/Blue 13 Blinker indicator light 12V - 1.2W
GN - Yellow/Black 14 Neutral indicator light 12V - 1.2W
GR - Grey/Red 15 Oil pressure indicator light 12V - 1.2W
GV - Grey/Green 16 Thermistor
M - Brown 17 Frame earth
N - Black 18 Oil pressure LED
R - Red 19 Neutral LED
Rs - Pink 20 Voltage regulator
RB - Red/Blue 21 Revolution regulation
RG - Red/Yellow 22 Electronic flywheel 12V - 180W
RN - Red/Black 23 Ignition module
V - Violet 24 Spark plug
Ve - Green 25 HT coil
VN - Green/Black 26 Tail light
VR - Green/Red 27 Two-level bulb 12V - 5/21W
28 Starter motor
29 Remote starter switch
30 Battery 12V
31 Fuse 15A
32 Rear brake light
33 Fan thermometric switch
34 Radiator fan
35 4-position ignition switch
36 Right side control device
37 Blinker switch
38 Front brake light
21 - 1,1

21 - 1,2

NORDWEST 600 / 93
A - Light Blue 1 Twin lamp lighting group

Ar - Orange 2 Two level halogen bulb 12V - 55/60W
AN - Light Blue/Black 3 Light bulb 12V - 5W
B - White 4 Turn indicators
BI - Dark Blue 5 Light bulb 12V - 10W
GB - Yellow/Blue 13 Blinker indicator light 12V - 1.2W
GR - Grey/Red 15 Oil pressure indicator light 12V - 1.2W
GV - Grey/Green 16 Thermistor
RB - Red/Blue 21 Pick-up
RN - Red/Black 22 Electronic flywheel 12V - 180W
V - Violet 23 Ignition module
Ve - Green 24 Spark plug
VN - Green/Black 25 HT coil
VR - Green/Red 26 Tail light
27 Two-level bulb 12V - 5/21W
28 Starter motor
30 Battery 12V
31 Fuses 20A 15A 7.5A
32 Rear brake light
34 Radiator fan
37 Blinker switch
39 Cable with diode and condenser for
starting anticounterstroke
21 - 2,1

21 - 2,2

NORDWEST INDUCTIVE DISCHARGE IGNITION SYSTEM
A - Light Blue 1 Twin lamp lighting group

Ar - Orange 2 Two level halogen bulb 12V - 55/60W
AN - Light Blue/Black 3 Light bulb 12V - 5W
B - White 4 Turn indicators
BI - Dark Blue 5 Light bulb 12V - 10W
GB - Yellow/Dark Blue 13 Blinker indicator light 12V - 1.2W
GR - Yellow/Red 15 Oil pressure indicator light 12V - 1.2W
GV - Grey/Yellow 16 Thermistor
RB - Red/Dark Blue 21 Pick-up
RN - Red/Black 22 Electronic flywheel 12V - 180W
V - Violet 23 Ignition module
Ve - Green 24 Spark plug
VN - Green/Black 25 HT coil
VR - Green/Red 26 Tail light
27 Two-level bulb 12V - 5/21W
28 Starter motor
30 Battery 12V
31 Fuses 20A 15A 5A
32 Rear brake light
34 Radiator fan
37 Blinker switch
21 - 3,1

21 - 3,2

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
This additional information comes from the “Nordwest Fact Sheet” which
was widely distributed.
The Nordwest was derived from the RC600 (1991 spec). Many parts are
common and basically by changing the wheels, forks, rear shock and
brakes, the bike was transformed from serious trail bike to serious street
fighter with excellent performance on the tarmac.
Colours: Graphite/Magenta (Black/Pink), Magenta seat.

Yellow/Black, Yellow seat.
Two tone Blue, Dark Blue seat, silver engine.
White/Magenta.
Frame no. 228 ………… (stamped into left side of frame head stock).
Engine no. 227 ………… (plate on top of gearbox, behind cylinder).
Dimensions: Length 2180 mm

Width 800 mm
Height 1180 mm
Wheel base 1415 mm
Seat height 870 mm
Pedal height 320 mm
Dry weight 141 kg (claimed)
Frame: Early bikes have a short seat and no rear carrier.

Later bikes have a longer seat and a rear carrier.
Front fork: Paioli upside down

Stroke 150 mm
Stanchion diameter 41 mm
Spring In left leg part no. 346402
Damper unit in right leg
Oil * (in each leg) 400 cc SAE 10 or 10W-40 engine oil
Oil seal size ** 41mm X 53mm X 8mm part no. 952633
Seal & bush set Part no. 346384
* = Oil grade and quantity is only important in right leg.

**= Bikes before 228 71037 had forks that used a thicker
Seal which is no longer available. Use 8mm plus a
spacer part no. 952737
A1

Electrical system
Ignition Two systems were used;

Early bikes up to 228 51763 use the Captive Discharge system.
Bikes 228 51764 and on use the Inductive Discharge system.
Capacitive Discharge:
Recognisable by; 6 wires from ignition switch, separate rev limiter box
(pink and green wires), 9 wires from ignition box, 3 groups of wires from
alternator, 2 fuses.
Charger coil: Part of stator part no. 324471
Resistance test: 218 ohms + 10% (pink and green)
Pick-up coil: Part no. 324433
Resistance test: 117 ohms + 10% (white/green - yellow/black)
117 ohms + 10% (yellow/blue - yellow/black)
HT coil: Part no. 328647
Primary res: 0.2 - 0.3 ohm + 10% (white/light blue - black)
Secondary res: 9.2 K ohms + 10% (white/light blue - HT)
Inductive Discharge:
Recognisable by; 4 wires from ignition switch, no separate rev limiter,
7 wires from ignition box, 2 groups of wires from alternator, 3 fuses.
Because the Inductive system gets its power from the battery, if the
battery is getting flat (below 6 V), the control box will disable the ignition
to protect the circuit. The motor may turn, but engine will not start / no
spark.
Pick-up coil: Part no. 947125
Resistance test: 150 ohms + 10% (yellow/black - yellow/dark blue)
HT coil: Part no. 946789
Primary res: 4.0 ohms + 10% (white/light blue - red/dark blue)
Secondary res: 13.8 K ohms + 10% (red/dark blue - HT)
Timing: 7 deg (static). 30 deg at 4,000 rpm not adjustable

NGK DPR9EA9 or DPR9EV9
Nippon Denso X27 EPRU-9 or EPRZU-9
Gap: 0.6 - 0.7 mm
Torque: 12 to 15 Nm. (put “Copper Slip” on threads)
Cap res: 1 K ohm
Charging circuit: Three phase. AC alternator
Battery: 12 volt, 14 Ah Yuasa YB14-LA2

Regulated voltage: 13.5 - 14 volts DC regulator/rectifier
A2

Bulbs: All 12 V
Head Light: 60/65w halogen H4 type
Tail/stop: 5/21w
Indicator: 10w bayonet
Side light: 3w
Instruments: 2w mini cap less
Warning: 1.2w mini cap less
Fuses:
Capacitive Ignition 2 X 15w
Inductive Ignition 1 X 20w, 1 X 15w, 1 X 7.5w
Rear suspension: Boge progressive mono shock. Not rebuildable

Only spring pre-load adjustment
Stroke: 150 mm
Front wheel: 3.50 X 17” (Three spoke cast alloy)

Bearing: Part no. 321891
Rim radial var. limit: 2.0 mm
axial var. limit: 2.0 mm
Spindle bend limit: 2.0 mm
Tyre: 120/70-17R tubeless (original)
Pressure: 2.1 bar (30psi) solo 2.2 bar (33psi) passenger
Rear wheel: 4.5 X 17” (Three spoke cast alloy)

Bearing: Part no. 348382
Rim radial var. limit: 2.0 mm
axial var. limit: 2.0 mm
Spindle bend limit: 2.0 mm
Tyre: 160/60-17R tubeless (original)
Pressure: 2.3 bar (33psi) solo 2.4 bar (35psi) passenger
Front brake disc: Twin semi floating discs part no. 946052
Diameter: 270 mm
Thickness (new): 5.0 mm
Wear limit: 4.0 mm
Planarity limit: 0.15 mm
Callipers: Twin Grimmeca four piston callipers

Brake fluid: DOT 4 (should be changed every two years)
Piston diameter: 2 X 28 mm & 2 X 25 mm
Piston wear limit: 0.05 mm
Pad: Part no. 318833 (Ferodo FDB 529)
Seal kit: Part no. 346269
A3

Rear brake disc: Part no. 343413 (single fixed disc)
Diameter: 240 mm
Thickness (new): 4.5 mm
Wear limit: 3.6 mm
Calliper: Twin piston

Brake fluid: DOT 4 (should be changed every two years)
Piston diameter: 32 mm
Piston wear limit: 0.05 mm
Pad: Part no. 323626 (Ferodo FDB 383 R)
Seal kit: Part no. 346268
Fuel: Ron 96 (use 4 star)

Tank capacity: 12 ltrs
reserve 2 ltrs
Engine:
Bore & stroke: 98 X 74 mm
Capacity: 597.9 cc
Compression ratio: 10.5 : 1
Compression test: 10 to 12 bar (new), 9 to 11 bar (over 5,000 km)
BHP: 49.5 bhp at 7,250 rpm (claimed)
Torque: 52 Nm at 6,250 rpm (claimed)
Oil: 10W40 semi synthetic
Oil capacity: 2.2 ltrs
Oil filter: Technocar R15 part no. 321205
(Most Renault 4 filters will fit)
Coolant: Permanent, undiluted. Capacity 1.3 ltrs
Air filter: Oiled foam part no. 324505

(Foam filter oil or SAE 90 gear oil)
Valves:
Inlet diameter: 36 mm (X 2)
Exhaust diameter: 32 mm (X 2)
Clearance inlet: 0.05 mm (cold)
exhaust: 0.10 mm (cold)
Cambelt: 321406/2 Isoran part no. 321406
Clutch: Wet, multi plate

Friction plates: 8 X part no. 324851
Thickness (new): 2.9 to 3.0 mm
Steel plates: 7 X part no. 32854
Max allow distortion: 0.10 mm
A4

Final drive:
Gear box sprocket: 14 tooth part no. 328016 (same as RC600)
15 tooth part no. 321586 (Saturno) can be used
Sprocket oil seal: Part no. 328232 (change when sprocket changed)
Rear sprocket: 43 tooth part no. 946060 (5 bolt fixing)
Cush drive rubber: 5 X part no. 939091
Cush hub bearing: 1 X part no. 946578
Chain: 520 X 108 links

Free play: 35 - 40 mm (vertical movement)
Wear limit: 20 links = 319.4 mm (12.57”) max.
With chain tight, measure from centre of pin 1 to
Centre of pin 21
CARBURETTOR: Teikei E30PV2A twin choke unit (same as RC600)

One choke is conventional slide and the other is the
constant velocity (CV) type. Both are fed from one
float chamber.
Item Size/type Part no/Notes
Main jet 135 341856

Main jet 140 341750 RC600 ‘89 std.
Main jet 145 341857
Main jet 150 346355
Main jet 155 346314 Nordwest & RC600 std.
Main jet 160 346353
Main jet 165 346347 RC600R std.
Main jet 170 346354
Needle assy 5C58 346363 Norwest 3rd notch
Needle assy 5C60 346360 RC600R 3rd notch
Needle assy 5C55 341873 RC600 ‘89 3rd notch
Slide 5.5 341763 RC600 ‘89
Slide 4 346349 Nordwest & RC600R
Atomiser (VOO) 2.6 341748 All
Slow running jet 48 346346 Nordwest & RC600R
Slow running jet 46 341747 RC600 ‘89
2nd carb jet 140 341810
2nd carb jet 145 341861 Nordwest std.
2nd carb jet 150 346356
2nd carb jet 155 346357
2nd carb jet 160 346351 RC600R std.
2nd carb jet 165 346358
2nd carb needle assy 5X7A 341876 Nordwest & RC600 ‘89 3rd
2nd carb needle assy 5X74 346362 RC600R std. 3rd notch
2nd carb atomiser (OO) 2.6 341809 All
2nd carb slide assy 341802 All
Float valve 2.5 341754 All
These Teikei carbs are used on some Yamaha big singles, so
Yamaha dealers could be another source of parts.
Nordwest & RC600 use same items
RC600 ‘89 refers to ‘89 & ‘90 versions (not Norwest body work) A5

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Gilera Nordwest Service Manual PDF

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WORKSHOP MANUAL

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from information obtained from original or copied

Whilst every care has been taken to ensure

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General information - Known faults 1

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Known faults 1-1

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Rear suspension linkage. The linkage is fitted with grease nipples.

General maintenance tips

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Gear selection problem - Refusing to change up at high revs,

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Chains & sprockets

Nordwest speedo cable

Starter clutch failure

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Spark plugs (gap 0.6 to 0.7mm torque to 12 to 15 Nm)

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Torque your head studs

Steering head races

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The battery’s electrolyte contains sulphuric acid. Always protect the

Petrol is highly flammable and in certain conditions even explosive.

The battery produces hydrogen which is highly explosive. Never smoke

Always tighten nuts or bolts starting with those of greater diameter or

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Frame and engine numbers are stamped on the Manufacturers plate, as

The carburettor identification number is found on the right side of the

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Overall length 2180 mm

Detachable tubular steel single cradle; detachable tubu-

Fuel tank capacity 12 ltrs

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Monocylinder, 4 stroke, vertical cylinder

Lubricating system, forced inner gear driven pump

Cooling system, permanent coolant with recirculating

Air filter, paper-dry

Intake valve diameter 36 mm

Clutch, wet, multi plate

Final drive 14/43

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Air mixture screw 1.5 ± 0.5

Ignition, electronic capacitive discharge

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PISTON/CYLINDER MATCHING CHART (in mm)

A 97.964 ÷ 97.970 98.000 ÷ 98.006

B 97.970 ÷ 97.976 98.006 ÷ 98.012

C 97.976 ÷ 97.982 98.012 ÷ 98.018

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Cylinder head, cylinder head cover, cylinder fixing nuts 32 ÷ 35

Engine support front 30 ÷ 34

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Sprocket locking wrench Camshaft oil ring installation punch

Flywheel puller Con-rod small end bushing

Valve guide oil ring Con-rod small end bushing

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Main journal bearing extraction ring

Main journal bearing installation punch

Main journal bearing installation punch Pad for crankshaft and