Tablesaw Blade Locker

Build this compact

storage unit and
say good-bye to
shuffling through
blades stacked on a
shelf or in a drawer.
The pullout panels
keep everything at
your fingertips
while protecting the
carbide teeth.

PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS 1 Cut the parts to size

■ Cut the rails (A) and panels (B) to size ■ Cut the top and bottom (E) and sides
■ Overall dimensions: 11½" wide [ Materials List, below]. (F) to size. Then cut the case cleat (G)
× 12" deep × 13¾" high. ■ From ¹⁄ 8" tempered hardboard, cut the and wall cleat (H) to width and ¼" lon-
■ Stores a stack dado set and six stops (C) to size. ger than listed. Rip 45° bevels on the
10" saw blades. ■ Plane stock to the same thickness as the mating edges of the case cleat and wall
■ Expand it to store additional ½" plywood, and cut the cleats (D) to size. cleat [ Drawing, below].
blades by making a wider case and
adding more pull-out boards.
■ Hang your dado set on three
Materials List *10‹"
FINISHED SIZE
pullout boards so you can get Part T W L Matl. Qty.
right to the blades and chippers A rails ½" 1¹⁄ 8" 12" BP 11 G
A N
you need. B panels ½" 7" 11¼" BP 6 ¤" 2fi"
■ A pair of interlocking
B O cleats makes C stops ¹⁄ 8" ½" 1" H 12
wall-mounting a snap. 45° bevels
P
C use D cleats ½" ¾" 12" P 7
■ If space allows, the top of the 7"
E top and bottom ¾" 12" 11½" BP 2
case as a shelf and
D Q hang tablesaw
accessories, such as throat plates F sides ¾" 12" 12¼" BP 2

and pushsticks,EfromR the sides. G* case cleat ¾" 2½" 10" BP 1

■ For the lumber H
F and other items
S H* wall cleat ¾" 7" 9¾" BP 1
needed to build this project, see the *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
G T
next page, bottom. Materials key: BP–birch plywood, H–tempered hardboard, *10"
H U P–poplar.
Supplies: #8×1½ and #8×2½" flathead wood screws, * Parts initially cut
V   longer than listed. ‡"
I #10×¾" brass roundhead wood screws.
Blade and bits: Stack dado set, 1" Forstner bit.
J W
80 DP-00583a ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2008 WOOD magazine May 2008
X
K
Y
L
 * Thickness of fi" plywood 1¤"
12"
2 Make the pullout boards A
■ Adjust a dado blade to cut a groove to them to shape. Drill two ¹⁄ 8" holes into C ¤"
A N of the ½" plywood *fi" groove
match the thickness each panel for #10 roundhead screws. ‰" deep
panels (B). Then C
B cutO a centered ³⁄ 16"-deep ■ Glue and clamp a rail (A) to the top 1"
groove into each rail (A). edge of each panel (B), with both parts 1‹"
C P
■ Chuck a 1" Forstner bit into your drill flush at the front.
1" finger-pull hole fi"
press and drill
D Qa finger-pull hole into ■ Glue and clamp a stop (C) to the upper
1"
each panel (B). Mark 1" radii on the rear corner of each panel (B) on both
R 7" B
panel bottomE corners. Saw and sand sides.
S 5Œ"
F ¤" holes
G T
R=1"
H U
Œ" 5fi" 11‹"
V
I
J W

3 Assemble
K the hangers
X
■ To form the endsYof the 9"-long notches ■ Glue and clamp a cleat (D) into the fence. Clamp the spacer to the fence ½"
in the rails (A)L of the hangers (A/D), fit rail (A) grooves, flush at the ends. Then, above the bandsaw table. Now rotate the
Z
your tablesaw miter
M gauge with an exten- to complete the 9"-long rail notches, hangers, and with the rails down, cut
sion and stopblock. Then cut ¹⁄ 8" saw kerfs position your bandsaw fence 1" from the the opposite notches [ Photo B ].
¹⁄ 8" deep into both edges of each rail 3" blade. With the hanger (A/D) rails (A) ■ Drill three countersunk holes through
from the front end [ Drawing, below right]. up, cut to the saw kerf [ Photo A]. Next each hanger (A/D) [ Drawing, below].
measure the distance from the ■ Retrieve the sides (F) and the remain-
cleat (D) to the edge of the rail, ing cleats (D). Glue and clamp the cleats
and cut a spacer to this width to the inside faces of the sides
2 MAKE THE
and the length of the bandsaw PULLOUT
[ Drawing, below].BOARDS
¤" saw kerfs
¤" deep

¨" ‡"
¤" notches
12" 9" long, cut
after assembly
A D D
A N
3" 1"
B O FILENAME: 176BladeHld2_#100504491.eps
D Date: 11-06 A Filename: 176saw
P Lorna J.
A C *fi" 9" R
HANGERLeMoine
D Q Cutting Diagram F 10-27-06
¤" saw kerf ¤" deep,
Spacer clamped cut before assembly
E R 3"
to the fence 12‹"
S *fi" groove ‰" deep, centered
¤"Fsaw kerf
¤" deep D
G T 12" ¸" shank hole, countersunk on
A N bottom face, drilled after assembly
H U
B O V
I * Thickness of fi" plywood
C P C
J W
A Cutting Diagram
D Cutting Diagram
Q X B B B ¤ x 12 x 12" Tempered hardboard
K A ‡"
Y *D
E R fi" clearance *D *D
B L
Z A B B B
S ‡ x 3fi x 36" Poplar (1 bd. ft.)
F M *Plane or resaw to the thickness
fi x 24 x 48" Birch plywood   lised in the Materials List.
G T
A N Cutting Diagram
H U
B O
V H
I
C P C
J W C
G
D Q B B B B B B ¤ x 12 x 12" Tempered hardboard
X A A E¤ x 12 x 12" Tempered hardboard
K E F * F *D
E R
Y *D *D D *D *D
L A B B B B B
A ‡ x 3fi x 36" Poplar (1 bd. ft.) B
SZ ‡ x 3fi x 36" Poplar (1 bd. ft.)
3 ASSEMBLE THE HANGERS
F *Plane or resaw to the thickness
M *Plane or resaw to the thickness
fi x 24 x 48" Birch plywood fi x 24 x 48" Birch plywood
‡ x 24 x 48" Birch plywood
  lised in the Materials List.   lised in the Materials List.
G T

H U woodmagazine.com 81
FILENAME: 176BladeHld3_#100504492.eps
I
V H H
Date: 11-06 Filename: 176sawblade holde
W
Lorna J. R LeMoine
J
 #8 x 1fi" F.H. wood screw
4 Build the case ¸" shank hole, countersunk
■ Finish-sand all the parts and assem-
E
blies. Then apply a clear finish. (We
applied two coats of satin polyurethane, Riser for
sanding between coats with 220-grit clamp
clearance D #8 x 1fi" F.H.
sandpaper.) A wood screw
■ RetrieveAthe top (E). Center one hanger
N
(A/D) on the bottom face, flush at the D
front, andB clamp
O it in place. Using the D
hanger shankPholes as guides, drill pilot 12‹"
F
holes intoCthe top, and drive the screws.
F
Then, inserting
D Q 17 ⁄ 32"-wide spacers A
between the cleats (D), add the remain- E
R
E [ Photo
ing hangers C].
S E 12"
■ Clamp the
F top assembly (A/D/E), bot-
tom (E), and side assemblies (D/F)
G T 11fi" 12"
together, flush all around. Then drill D
countersunk
H Uscrew holes through the 1˛"-wide spacer
#8 x 1fi" F.H. wood screw
top and bottom (E) and into the sides (F) C ‡"
V
[ Drawing, Ifar right]. Drive the screws.
J W
5 Assemble
X the locker
K
■ Drive roundhead screws into the ¹⁄ 8" case cleat (G) to this length. Then cut Drill countersunk screw holes through
Y panels (B) of the pullout
pilot holesLin the the wall cleat (H) ¼" less than this the sides and into the case cleat. Drive
boards (A/B/C) Z [ Drawing, right]. Leave ³⁄ 16" length. Position the case cleat between the screws [ Photo D ].
M head of the screw and the
between the the sides (F), flush with the back edges
panel [Screw Detail]. File the protruding and snug against the bottoms of the side
screw points flush on the opposite side of cleats (D). Clamp the case cleat in place.
the panel. E
■ Slide the pullout boards (A/B/C) into D
A theN case from the rear. Measure the
inside dimension of the case. Cut the A 4 BUILD THE CASE 2fi"
B O
C 1" F
P B
C
B F
D Q 10"
E R
D D G E
S
F
G
G T #10 x ‡" brass
FILENAME: 176BladeHld4_#100504493.eps
R.H. wood screw
Filename: 176saw
#8 x 1fi" F.H.
Date: 11-069‡"
U Lorna J. R LeMoine
wood screw
H A N 10-27-06
¸" shank hole, countersunk
V
I B O #8 x 2fi" F.H.
F wood screw screw detail
J W P H driven into stud
C
X B
K DF Q ‰"
Y
#10 x ‡" brass
L E R R.H. wood screw
AZ B C
M S File screw point flush.
D F
G T

H U
6 Now hang it upV If there is no stud, drill the cleat holes Note: To allow the case cleat (G) to clear
I
■ Check for a wall stud in the desired in a horizontal arrangement, and use the wall cleat (H) when mounting the blade
J W If there is a
location of the blade locker. hollow wall fasteners to mount the cleat. locker under an overhead obstruction, such
stud, mark the location onX the wall cleat Hang the blade locker by interlocking as5a ASSEMBLE THE
wall cabinet, draw STORAGE
a level UNIT
line 11" below
K (Viewed from back)
(H), and drill two countersunk screw holes the case cleat (G) and wall cleat bevels. the obstruction, and align the bottom of
Y
in a vertical arrangement.
L Hold the cleat Slide out the pull-out boards, and hang the wall cleat with this line. ¿
level against the wall. UsingZ the screw your blades on the roundhead screws.
M Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund
holes as guides, mark the screw locations
Project design: Jeff Mertz
on the wall. Drill pilot holes into the stud, Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
and screw the cleat to the wall.
FILENAME: 176BladeHld5_#100504494.eps
Filename: 176sawblade hold
82 Date: 11-06 R LeMoine
WOOD magazine May 2008
Lorna J. 10-27-06
SCREW DETAIL