Cravese Rescue

C Pulley
Z Pulley

Ice craft

Alpine stock- wooden.

1840- Ice axe

Oscar ekenstein

1970- Youn Shanad, technical ice axe

Grivel

B- basic ice axe, mountaineering, traverse

T- technical

Crampons-
1908- 10 point crampon. Oscar
1930- laural grivel. 12 point.

Molybdenum- does not bend.

Connecting plate- rigid, semi rigid, rigid
Toe bail- steel
Clip on-
Front point, Flat point
Anti balling plate
Front teeth- horizontal (mountaineering), vertical, mono point (technical).

45-60 degree technique

Duck walking technique.

Front pointing. Rigid shoes
Peak position
If gradient increases use edge head position. Fall on ice axe

60°
Swing ice axe(support)

Traverse- glacid position.

Glacading, self arrest, team arrest

Glacading- coming down a big snow wall 100-200m with the help of ice axe. Save time and
come down safely. Should know the terrain.
1. Standing position
2. Half squat- peak outside, thumb at edge head.
3. Sitting position- heels up, upper back straight.

Edge head position.

Self arrest- stop sliding on snow slope

1. Head down arrest. On stomach.
2. On back. Head up. Feet towards up slope.
3. Rolling. LP QQ

Acclimatization

2700m > 5500m >

Less amount of oxygen and less pressure.

Hypobaric hypoxia.
Difficulty to breath.
Heart rate increases. Heart pumps more blood.
Feel less thirty, hungry.
Low humidity. Osmosis. Body to atmosphere.
4-5 litre minimum.
1000m height gain. UV radiation increases. Ionizing radiation. Sun burn.

Acute high altitude illness.

1. Acute mountain sickness- 6-20 hrs of ascent, head ache, insomnia, giddiness, anorexia,
vomiting.
Not more than 500m/day. 1 day rest for 1000-1500m gain. Don't ascend if AMS appear.
Descend to lower altitude is symptoms remain.
2. HACO- high altitude cerebral odema, altered mental status, truncal ataxia- cannot move
trunk, lethargy, altered sensorium, hallucinations, comma.
Give oxygen, recompression chamber, dexamethasone 8mg stat iv, im, po followed by 4mg
6hrly- steroid, acetazolamide 250mg 12hrly- makes you pee more , descent.
3. HAPO- high altitude pulmonary odema- collection of fluids in the lungs.
Cough, difficulty in breathing at rest. Oxygen, recompression chamber, descent.

Guiding principles:
< 2000ft per day
Work high sleep low
Take proper meals and plenty of fuilds
Adequate sleep
Do exercise
No smoking and drinking
Avoid physical exertion and cold exposure
Don't get over confident
Immediately report
Acclamatization schedule:

Camp hygiene and sanitation

Selection of camp:
Gully around tent to direct water away from tent.

Water hygiene:
Chlorine tablets
Boil water
500mg for 10L

Food hygiene:
Eat hot.
Cooking water should be clean.

Disposal of garbage:

First Aid II

Prologue:
1. Choking- mechanical obstruction in airway.
Press abdomin, hit on back.
2. Fainting- high BP, low BP, dehydration, low blood sugar, sun stroke, standing at same
position.
Apply cold compress, elevate feet, give fuilds, have the person lie down, use a fan to lower
temperature.
3. Shock- Cardiogenic, Hypovolemic, Anaphylactic, Infectious, Neurogenic.
4. Electric shock- check for entry and exit wound.
5. Cramps- loss of water. Glucose then ORS.
6. Sprain and strain- cold pressure, painkiller and rest.
7. Dislocation- no movement.
8. Fracture- no movement, give support.
9. Cut/wound- wrap in clean cloth soaked in clean water. Keep cut side fresh.
10. Nose bleed- mechanical injury, heat stroke, skull fracture, cold weather.
Ice pack, tilt head forward, mechanically stop.
11. Seizures- prevent from sharp objects.
12. Burns- epidermis, dermis, hypodermis.
3rd degree burn will have no sensation. Wrap with dry cloth. Burnol- 1st, 2nd. No water if
skin has burned.
13. Allergy- skin contact, ingestion, injection, inhalation.
14. Dog bite- clean wound and apply antiseptic.
15. Snake bite- restrict the movement.
16. Drowning- head towards left side, take out water, flat on ground on stomach.
17. Poisonous plant-
Cold injuries- provide heat

Hypothermia:
Mild- 32/35
Moderate- 28/32
Severe- less than 28

Provide multiple layers tontral heat

Non freezing injuries:

Chillblains
Trenchfoot- 8hrs change socks.
Frost bite- check for hypothermia, protect skin, take pain medication, never rub area, never use
fire to rewarm, never walk on frost bites.

First Aid I

Life support:
A- airway and neck fracture- talk with patient, head tilt, chin lift
B- breathing and cyanosis(discoloration of skin)- rate of breathing
C- Circulation and bleeding control- check pulse, pressure, elevate, bandage.
D- dysfunction of nervous system- alert, response to voice, pain.
E- exposure and evacuation

Artificial Respiration
Mouth to mouth or mouth to nose

Breathing:
Capillary return:
Cyanosis: reduced O2 in body. Lips, ear lobes, nail beds.

Chest thump- 30 mins

Breathing- 12-20/min
Pulse- 60-100 beats/min

Triage:
People walking to you
People who can move but can't walk
No action- crying for help

Red 1
Yellow 2
Green 3
Black 4 (Dead)

Cas evac
Med evac
Fixed Ropes

Fixing rope on a slope (rock, snow, ice) using technical equipment.

Rock- pitons, chalk nut
Ice- ice piton
Snow- screw

Jumar (ascender)- Al alloy. Handle (rubber), anchor point, rope runner, eye hole, safety latch,
teeth.

2 climbers fix rope. Others jumar.

Rock Terminology

1. Face- surface of Rock where there are no cracks. (41).

2. Glacis- any face of Rock less than 30°. Generally can climb with only legs.
3. Slab- 41, 42. No large hand holds. 30-75°. Pressure holds, Toe holds. Need good footwork.
4. Wall/Head wall-
5. Overhang- 90-120°. Upper-body intensive.
6. Roof- >120°
7. Fissure- small crack. Cannot jam fingers. Pitons can go in.
8. Splitter- wide enough to insert finger. Twist to get grip.
9. Off width- upper end of splitter. 10inches. Jam fist.
10. Dihedral- sides meeting at an angle°
11. Chimney- Backing up/down, bridging.
12. Gulley-
13. Stance- small smear of gap where you can rest and free your hands.
14. Ledge- bigger than Stance. Can also rest.
15. Platform- enough to comfortable sleep.
16. Spurs- smallest of the ridges going up.
17. Ridge-
18. Arete-
19. Pitch- one rope length climb. 45m. Pitch length.
20. Multi pitch-
21. Buttress- section of wall coming out. Moonlight buttress.
22. Pinnacle- sharp summit. Cannot walk. Sharks fin(meru)
23. Gendarme- sharp obstacle found on a ridge b/w you and the summit. Technical climb.
24. Tower- ex. Devils tower. Small base. Roaring high.
25. Chockstone- good anchor. Ex. Norway. Stone stuck on ground. Used as anchor.
26. Bivovac- unplanned stop. No tents. No features. Spending a night.
27. Cordage- long sling. Anchor building. Piece of a static rope.
28. Tufa- natural feature. Vertical pinch.
29. Cairn-
30. Route/Problem- path taken to climb a wall. On a boulder it's called a problem.
31. On site- first time seeing a wall and planning a route to climb.
32. Flash- have seen someone climb and then you climb on first attempt.
33. Red point- all possibilities on a wall.
34. Rack-
35. Absal- rappelling
36. Crux- difficulty part of a route/problem.
37. Wipper- big fall
38. Srene-
39. Scrambling- climbing without technique.
40. Free solo- only PA shoes and chalk bag. (Alex Honnald)

Map Reading

Geographical area depicted on a paper. It is a true representation to a particular scale.

If not scaled then it is a sketch.

Types:
1. Atlas- road ways.
2. Relief- terrain features. Jungle, mountain, rivers, cities.
3. Rail/road-
4. Guide- tourist map, mainly for tourist destination.
5. Topological- lay of the land. Elevation and contours. Most detailed map. Contains all other
maps. Uses symbols.

Planning of an expedition.
Selection of camp site
Selection of routes
Obtaining height
Identify own location on map

Types of scale:
1. Descriptive scale- 1" 5 miles
2. Linear scale- 2cm 1km/5km
3. Representative- gives ratio

1963-1965
1981-1983

Straight line by scale.

Zig zag by pin thread and then scale.

degree minute second

Latitude and longitude. Measured in degree.

1° 60mins
60sec 1 min

Types of North;
1. True north- direction to the north pole from any point on the earth.
2. Magnetic north- direction of magnetic north (in use for mountaineers)
3. Grid north- north on map direction of latitudinal lines.

Compass: to find the north, only compass can give bearing(with respect to north).
1. Dry compass.
2. Liquid compass.

Circular service protector- to check bearing.

Bearing (navigation)- direction of an object with respect to an observer.

Rappelling

French word
A.k.a Absailing

Rope of length of Rock face

Anchors- natural, artificial
SEREN- solid equalised redundant efficient no extension.
3- triangular or link
2- double
1- single

THEN:
1. Body- canvas miton, canvas shirt. Side, shoulder

NOW:
1. Mechanical- Helmet, seat harness, carabiner, screw gate, descender, PA shoes, mitons, Giri
Giri(auto lock), Italian hitch

History of Indian Mountaineering

1880's- w.w.graham, sir Martin Conway

William Lambton- great game and great arc
Pundit Nain Singh Rawat

1786- Mt.Blanc 4808m (France)

1852- Mt.Everest (Peak XV) Radhanath Sikdar
1857- first Alpine club
1862- Mt. Shilla (6132m)
1907- Mt. Trishul (7120m)
1924- George Mallory, Andrew Irvine
1928- The Himalaya Club
1931- Mt. Kamet (7756m)
1936- Mt. Nanda Devi, (Bill Tillman, Noel Odell) 7816m
1942- The Doon School Mt. Kalanag.
1948- HAWS
1950- Mt. Bandar Punch (6316m)
1953- Everest
1954- HMI
1958- Cho Oyu (8188m)
1960- First Indian Everest Expedition
1961- IMF Nov 3
1961- Western Himalaya Mountaineering Institute
1965- First successful indian expedition to Everest
1965- NIM
1974- Mt.Shivling (6543m)
1974- Mt. Changabang (6864m)
1975- First woman to reach Everest. Japanese.
1977- Mt.Kanchenjunga
1983- JIM&WS
1984- First Indian woman
1993- indo-nepalese woman
1995- Mt.Chaukhamba II (7070m) NIM
1999- Mt.Mukut Parvat NIM
2001- Mt.Trishul
2003- Indo-nepalese army. Everest massif
2003- HMI Everest Expedition
2005- First Indian ascent of Shishapangma
2009- NIM expedition
2009- Mt.Dhaulagiri (8167m)
2009- Youngest indian everester (after Dicky Dolma)
2009- HMI Makalu
2010- Arjun Bajpai Everest. Youngest
2010- Youngest person to climb Everest. 13years
2011- Mt.Thalaysagar (6904m) NIM
2011- First Indian couple to scale Everest.
2011- Mt.Manaslu (8156m) NIM.
2012- First army woman expedition
2013- First female amputee to climb Everest
2013- First twins to sce Everest.
2013- Youngest Indian. Everest. 15
2013- First expedition of NCC to Everest.
2013- First Indian to scale Everest 7 times.
2014- Youngest woman to conquer Mt. Everest. Purna.

Himalayas
Him- snow
Alaya- abode

Alfred Wegner- Continental drift theory.

Himalaya seperates indian subcontinent from Tibetan plateau.

Bharmaputra and Indus river system. Most fertile. 25% of Asia's population resides here.
Pangea-Panthalasa
Northern continent- Laurasia
Middle sea- Tethys sea
Southern continent- Gondawanaland.
130 million years ago India separated from Gonda.
60 million years ago India collided with Eurasian landmass.
Oldest mountain range in India is Aravali range in Rajasthan.
Lapthal- can find sea fossils. (In Uttarakhand).
2400 km is the length of Himalayas.
Nanga Parvat- 8226m
Namche Barua- 7756m

Himalaya:
1. Shivalik range
2. Middle Himalaya
3. Greater Himalaya

Karakoram Range- 80km, 10 peaks above 7000m

Punjab Himalaya- 592km, Nanga Parvat-, Nun, Kun.
Kumaon and Garhwal- 352km, Sutlej west, Kali east.
Nepal Himalaya- 800km, Kali west, Tista east.
Sikkim Himalaya- 25km, Tista east.
Assam- 752km, Tista west, Brahmaputra east.

Crust- 8-70km solid

1. 12 tectonic plates.
Mantle- 2900km semi liquid
Core- 2250km fully liquid

Anchoring and Belaying on Rock

Anchoring: Reaching on top and securing.

Belaying: helping teammate descend down.

Seat harness
Helmet
PA shoes
Screw gauge carabiner
Rope
Sling
Short sling
Quick draw
Spring loaded camming device SLCD- A shape
Chalk nut- V shape
Rock pitons
Hammer
Figure of 8
Reverse shoe
Gri gri
Fred

Anchor:
1. Artificial- pitons, SLCD, chalk nut, expansion bolt
2. Natural- rock, chop stone, tree. Clove hitch, bowline+safety.

Belaying:
1. Body belay- sitting hip belay, shoulder belay. Not recommend. Sit down and give it. Pull,
break and shift
2. Mechanical/Technical belay-

Principles of Rock climbing

Free climbing:
1. Sport climbing
2. Trad climbing
3. Bouldering- 15-20ft height. Without technical gear

Aid climbing:

Principles:
1. Planning- Route planning, weather, equipment, length of rope, selection of leader.
2. Balance- 3 point climbing, centre of gravity, upright position
3. Conservation of energy- use legs, use more foot holds and which are near, no jumps, rythmic
climbing.

Hand holds:
1. Overhand hold
2. Side hold
3. Undercut hold
4. Crimps
5. Pencil grip
6. Pinch
7. Jamming
8. Fist jam
9. Pressure hold
Foot holds:
1. Friction
2. Heel hook
3. Toe lock
4. Opposition foothold
5. Jamming
6. Combination hold.

Traverse- Diagonal or horizontal movement.

Chimney- gap b/w two rocks. If large then gully. Backing up, wriggling, bridging, layback position

Switching:
1. Dynamic
2. Static

Do's and don'ts:

1. Never climb alone.
2. Try not to hold on to shrubs.
3. Check if rock or hold is hollow or not.

Choke stone, cap stone

Mountain Hazards

Subjective: human error

1. Benightment- unscheduled halts.
2. Cold injuries-
3. Snow blindness- snow reflects more light. 75% reflection.
4. Sun burn- exposure to UV rays can cause cancer
5. Altitude sickness-
6. Slip and fall-
7. Hallucinations-
8. Equipment failure-

Objective: natures side

1. River in spate-
2. Avalanche-
3. Land slide-
4. High lateral moraine-
5. Rock gaps after fresh snow fall-
6. Crevasse-
7. Snow on trees- overtime the snow on the tree becomes hard.
8. Verglass-
9. White out-
10. Lightning-
11. Cornice- leeward side
12. Ice fall-
13.

Avalanche TTCSFZR

Snow sliding down a slope with adequate speed which is destructive in nature.
Carries snow, stones,mud,trees.
If bonding is weak more chances of avalanche.

Types of avalanche:
1. Powder snow
2. Slab avalanche
3. Wet snow
4. Cornice avalanche

Triggers:
1. Overloading- accumulation of snow. Fresh snow cannot hold.
2. Shearing/bonding- breakage of bonding due to external action.
3. Temperature-
4. Vibration-

Caught in avalanche:
1. Run to either sides.
2. Else run with the slope. Back towards avalanche. Swimming movement.
3. Call out your partner. Let them know your position.
4. Make a pocket near face.
5. Try communicate once. Else wait. Minimum breathing.

If survived:
1. Don't panic.
2. Mark last seen point.
3. Quickly search.
4. Search last seen point. Dig carefully.
5. Thorough search.
6. Probing. Avalanche rod.
7. Send for help.

Factors responsible:
1. Weather: heat more prone. Wind.
2. Snowfall- long duration snowfall will cause more snowfall. 1ft more accumulation of fresh
snow can cause avalanche.
3. Temperature- after fresh snow fall if temperature drops can cause avalanche.
4. Wind direction: direction and pressure.
5. Slope angle: 60° - 25°. Mass and speed. Most in 30-45. 38 is most dangerous and most
prone.
6. Slope orientation- North facing slope. South facing slope. Position of sun.
7. Terrain- vegetation is more avalanche chances is less. Single tree/boulder or distant can
cause weak point.
8. Vegetation- thick safe. Less thick unsafe.

Zones:
1. Crown
2. Left flank, right flank
3. Track
4. Staunch wall- small flat section on a slope.
5. Runout zone- ends and becomes stable.

Rules to observe in avalanche zone:

1. Do not go alone.
2. Negotiate the safest route.
3. Keep the ridge if possible and stay away from cornice.
4. Do not go zig zag on a snow slope.
5. Person on watch.
6. Un buckle rucksack.
7. Maintain silence and don't stomp feet.
8. Don't venture in snow after a heavy snowfall.
9. Keep 50-100m distance from each other.
10. Wear transceiver.
11. Avalanche victim detector.

Spit to find the right direction.

Create space near face.

Mountain Weather

Weather is a short term phenomenon.

Climate is a long term phenomenon.

Atmosphere: Cover of air that envelopes the earth.

Factors:
1. Temperature.
2. Pressure.
3. Wind conditions.
4. Cloud formation.

Characteristics:
1. Air has elasticity, weight and pressure.
2. Allows light and heat to pass.

Layers:
1. Troposphere (14-18km^)- Temperature decreases and pressure decreases.
2.1000ft ^ 2°C decreases/ 1km ^ 6.5°C
3. Sea level- 1023.25 mb
4. NIM- 870 mb
5. 22% O2
Atmospheric pressure: decreases with height.
Hot air goes up. Forms low pressure. High pressure takes place of low pressure thus causing
wind to blow.

Coriolis Force. Northern hemisphere has clockwise motion.

Effects on mountain weather: 10m^ 1mb

Foehn air stream. Leeward warmer than Windward side.
Trees found more on Windward side.
Windward side- Cold air: -1°C/200m
Leeward side- Hot air- +1°C/100m

Anabatic winds- coming towards mountain from plains. (Morning)

Catabatic- going from mountain to plains. (Night)
White-out:
1. Fog- Very dense and less visibility. Less than 500m
2. Mist- visibility more than a km.

Clouds:
Formation- water evaporation.

High:
1. Cirrus
2. Cirro-stratus- rare cloud, small blobs
3. Cirro-cumulus

Looks like:
1. Stratus- spread over horizontal. May cause drizzles.
2. Cumulus- spread over vertically. Bring showers.
3. Cirrus- hair like, dry and rainless clouds <6000m
4. Nimbus- rain clouds

Alto stratus-
Alto cumulus-
Cumulo Nimbus- build due to bad weather. Lightning. (CB clouds). Develops vertically but
finishes horizontally.

Lighting thunderstorms:
Cover sharp object and remove radio when in lightning area. Insulate yourself. Keep away from
high peaks and tall trees. Make a platform and stand on it. Stay in crouch position.

Types of weather forecast:

1. Synoptic- short range
2. Numerical- medium range
3. Statistical- long range

Important:
1. If barometric pressure is decreasing fast weather is about to get bad.
2. Steadily increasing indicates clearing of weather.
3. On clear nights it gets cold. Else relatively warm.

Glacier

Permanently frozen piece of ice.

Formation:
Fernification- snow gets settled as layers and forms a glacier overtime (due to compression).
~50days
1. Feeding zone- Neve. Ice/snow does not stop here. It keeps moving.
2. Accumulation zone- from feeding zone- it gets collected here. Glacier is formed in this zone.
3. Avalation zone- if reaches here it melts. Snout. Gaumukh.

Types:
1. Alpine glacier- found in mountains. Most glacies in india.
a. Valley glacier- Siachen glacier is world's largest valley glacier. 76km length.
b. Hanging glacier.
2. Continental glacier- 99% glacier sites are in Antarctica. Lambert glacier. 450km length.
150km width.
3. Alaskan glacier- generally found in Alaska. Starts from top and ends as continental glacier.
Hubbard.
4. Tide water glacier.

Features of a glacier:

1. Crevasse- due to shifting of ice. Shape depends on direction of flow of stream.

2. Moraine- leftover of a melted glacier. (Freedom of the hills BOOK)
a. Median
b. Lateral
c. Terminal
d. Supra
e. Infra
f. Morain basin

Moves 40-400m in a year.

Receding or growing.

Mountain manners

Assume responsibility for yourself and your team's.

Maintain a low profile.
Avoid overheating.
Ascend zigzag.
Halt at scheduled stops.
Do not walk on crops.
Maintain body temperature.
Don't keep rucksacks on trail during halts.

Hut manners- Respect everyone's personal space.

Passing Information- works both ways.
Reduce noise factor.
Proof of ascent.

Towards:
1. Nature-
2. Stranger- greetings, respect others in the area.
3. Team members
4. Yourself

Walking manners-
1. Maintain steady pace.
2. Avoid jerky movements.

Do's and Don'ts-

1. No pollution.
2. Disposal of human waste.
3. Leave no trace.
4. No burning but segregation.
5. Bring down litter.

Rope

Old type:

1. Jute rope- coconut raisen (climbing) if wet becomes heavy. Hard to open knot.
2. Malina hump- skin of Manila plant
3. Cotton Rope-
4. Poly Rope- fixed ropes (high altitude)

Latest type: Nylon plastic. Curnamental rope.

1. Static Rope- 5% elastic. River crossing. Valley crossing. 2000kgs. 6mm to 12mm diameter.
2. Dynamic Rope- 25-30% elastic. Climbing. If sudden jerk happens the rope can handle.
Artificial climbing. Not used for rappelling.
3. Multipurpose Rope- 10-25% elastic. Rappelling and climbing.

Standard lenght- 45m

UIAA tested.
Rope safety:

1. Before and after use coil properly.

2. While Rock craft avoid sharp edges. Rope protector (leather or canvas). Avoid continuous
friction.

Rope Coiling:
Easy to carry. Readily available.
1. Climbing coil- for lead climber to carry extra coil if rock face is big.
2. Rappelling coil- two coils
3. Casualty coil- round shape
4. Butterfly coil-
5. Hand coil-
6. Reserve coil-

Ropes knots and roping up:

1. Direct rope knots- directly connected to body. Old knots. Can be attached to harness.
a. Guideman knot- thumb knot. Pass through harness. Secure with thumb knot.
b. Middleman- double rope and use thumb knot.
c. Endman- pass from front to back. Apply safety knot.
d. Bowline- for middleman knot.
e. Bowline on the bight-
f. Coil bowline-
2. Indirect rope knots-
a. Figure of 8
3. Joining knots- joining two ropes to increase length.
a. Equal diameter
1. Reef knot-
2. Fisherman-
3. Double fisherman-
b. Unequal diameter
1. Sheetband knot-
2. Double sheetband-

Hitches: needs support

1. Clove hitch-
2. Italian hitch-
3. Timber hitch-

Harness-
1. Black diamond type
2. Petzil type

Rope up distance. Glacier: 8-9m

Tent pitching and camp selection:

1.

Mountain Terminology

Tree Line- last line of trees.

Snow Line- start of snow.

Moraine- left over of melted glacier.

Cairn- stones laid on top of each other. Route indicator through a moraine.

Snout- start of river from a glacier. Gaumukh.

Snow Bridge- natural snow bridge formed naturally.

Crevasse- cracks formed on a glacier.

Massif- Group of mountains.

Range- Series of mountain.

Saddle- slope not too incline and covers a large area.

Ice-fall- when glacier moves and collapses on a step.

Cerac- Ice pillars.

Cornice- Overhanging ice structure.

Lunatak- ??

Bergschund- border between mountain and glacier. First crevasse.

Col- slope too incline and covers a large area. (B/w two mountains)

Arete- narrow ridge. Sharp in shape.

Erratic- big boulders. Might be a part of glacier.

Bouloir- narrow gully from bottom to top.

CWM- flat land surround by mountains from 3 sides.

Tarn- high altitude lake.

Verglas- thin coat of ice on land.

Glacial Pool- pool of water on a glacier.

Glacial stream- river stream on a glacier.

Glacial mill(moulin)- hole on a glacier formed due to continuous flow of water.

Glacial Table- table like structure due to a rock fallen on a glacier.

Gendarme- a pop up.

Suncups- depressions on snow formed due to sun.