Our Lady of Fatima University

Second Semester - 3rd Quarter

12TH GRADE
Physical Education
Lesson: Climb Preparation ( Personal Equipment, Group Equipment, and Leave no Trace Principle )

Personal Equipment
1. Backpack - Find a good quality backpack that is tested and trusted by mountaineers which is large enough to contain all the gear
and provisions you will need for a certain trip.
2. Boots– As a mountaineer having a quality fair of boots is an investment and important equipment that protects a hiker from
any injury of the foot during a trek.
3. Clothing – The type and amount of clothes a mountaineer should bring and wear is determined through the period of stay and
weather conditions in the wild. Outdoor clothing should provide protection against the elements.
4. Wind Breaker – A light jacket without insulation which serves as a shield from wind and cold.
5. Earth Pad – From a simple rubber mat to the more high-tech inflatable ones. This serves as a cushion between you and the
ground when sleeping.
6. Sleeping Bag – Should not be heavy and bulky. It is capable of protecting the mountaineers from any elements in the wild.
7. Dog Tag and Whistle – The name tag is for personal identification with your blood type and the whistle is for emergency signals.
8. First Aid Kit – In case of emergency; every mountaineer should bring with him/her a first aid kit that has enough supplies to
treat illnesses. In addition, other materials used for personal care such as alcohol, mosquito repellent etc. It is also advisable to
bring an anti-venom kit for snake bite. Always check the kit before trekking and put in in a safe container (water proof).
9. Survival Kit – The survival kit should be packed into a compact and waterproof container, which can be easily carried by trekkers
during short hikes without a backpack. Contents include waterproofed match, small knife, plastic tarp, surgical rubber tube and
emergency rations.
10. Candles – Serves as a cheap alternative light source although not effective during windy conditions and fire hazards. Some
climbers bring special lanterns for this purpose.
11. Flash light- A small watertight flashlight with a bright bulb is a must. Headlamps can also be handy.
12. Lighter and Matches – Should be waterproofed.
13. Folding knife – This is for protection and an essential tool in the mountain. It is also better that a folding knife has other
accessories such as a can opener, scissors, screwdriver etc.
14. Fuels for the Stove – Pressurized gas, kerosene, and lighter fluid are standard camping stove fuels.
15. Water Containers – There are two kinds of water containers: a non-collapsible and a collapsible one. Made of sturdy plastic,
usually two separate 2-liter containers (total of 4 liters + trail water) should be enough for an overnight climb. Always check for a
possible leak.
16. Trail Water – For hiking consumption. Around a litter or so.
17. Mess Kit and Drinking Cup – Should be sturdy and lightweight. Cup should have a handle for easier use with hot drinks or broth.
18. Notebook and Pencil – For taking down details and information.
19. Plastic Bags and Trash Bags – For waterproofing clothes, equipment, and other items.
20. Rain Gear/Poncho – Mainly used in camp for moving around. Rarely for trekking unless in very cold conditions.
21. Sun Protection – Sunblock lotion, caps, bandanna for sunny.
22. Rubber Bands / Garter – All around use e.g. sealing plastic bags.
23. Tying Strings – For lashing tents and other purposes.
24. Repair Kit – should contain thread, needle, extra buckles, quick acting glue, duct tape and other items for repair of different
equipment.
25. Sandals / Slippers – For relaxing feet after the hike and avoiding erosion in campsites.
26. Packed Lunch – Usually your first meal when climbing, something easy to eat, digest and palatable e.g. sandwiches and fruits.
27. Rice and Eggs – Not a necessity since some prefer pasta or bread, however packing eggs individually wrapped in plastic with the
rice in a hard container is good training for packing your bag.
28. Spoon and Fork – Preferably metal.
29. Toiletries – Contains toothbrush, small type of toothpaste, floss which can be used as thread I repair kit, small comb or hair
brush and tissue paper.

Group Equipment
1. Bolo
2. Cook set
3. Flag
4. Groundsheet
5. Map and Compass
6. Rope
7. Tent
8. Trowel
9. Stove

The Leave-No-Trace Principle

1. Plan ahead and prepare.
- Consider your goals and the goals of the group.
- Gather information, expectation and getting technical skills, knowledge in first aid and equipment.
- Pick an appropriate journey for your group and allow plenty of time to travel and camp.
- Be prepared to sit tight or turn back if you sense danger or sustain an injury.
2. Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
- Sticking to the tracks is best because they are specially made for walking on.
- If there are no tracks, avoid non-durable ground such as soft plants, stream edges, muddy sites, and fragile soil layers.
3. Dispose of waste properly.
- “Pack it in, pack out”. Any user of outdoors has a responsibility to clean-up before he or she leaves. Inspect your campsite and
rest areas for rubbish or spoiled foods. Pack out all rubbish and kitchen waste including leftover food.
- Lead by example. Pick up any rubbish you see, not just your own.
- Never miss an opportunity to use the proper toilet facility and don’t dispose of your rubbish on them. If there are no toilets be
prepared and know how and where to dig cat holes or when to carry them.
4. Leave what you find.
- When we leave rocks, shells, plants, feathers, fossils, artifacts and other objects of interest as we find them, we pass the gift
of discovery on to those who follow. Leaving what you find should be your first thought when you find something interesting or
attractive.
- There may be times and places when it is OK to collect something (for example for a child to collect some seashells or pretty
rocks on a beach). But remember, we humans are very good at talking without thinking and there should be places where we
show self-control. Mostly it is better to hold back and leave what we find, rather than have a shelf full of lifeless and dusty
unvalued souvenirs.
- Particularly, never disturb culturally sensitive sites.
5. Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire).
- Fires destroy important natural areas. Many of these fires are either carelessly or accidentally set by uninformed campers and
travelers. Large uncontrolled wildfires set unintentionally can spread rapidly and result in the critical loss of natural habitat,
property and human life. First check whether fires are permitted in the place you are going.
- Along with the destructive nature of fire, the natural appearance of many areas has been compromised by the careless use of
campfires and the demand for firewood. Campfires are beautiful by night. But the enormous rings of soot-scarred rocks –
overflowing with ashes, partly burned logs, food and rubbish – are unsightly. Surrounding areas have been stripped of their natural
beauty as every scrap of dry wood has been torched.
- Leave No Trace educates people on whether a fire is appropriate, and techniques that can be used to minimize the harm they
cause.
6. Respect wildlife.
- Encounters with wildlife inspire wonder. If wild animals are changing their behavior because of our actions, we are too close and
interfere with their normal behavior.
- Never feed wildlife- human food is toxic to many of animals living in the wild
7. Be considerate of other visitors.
Today, we must consider the rights of traditional land owners as well as share the wilderness with people of all recreational
persuasions. There is simply not enough country for every category of enthusiast to have exclusive use of land, wilderness,
trails, bush, lakes, rivers, and campgrounds. Consider others, and what they might be trying to get out of their outdoor
experience.
- Respect locals and their property. Pass quietly through farmland and leave the gates as you found them. Share the huts you
stay in and welcome others who arrive after you. Leave huts better than you found them.

Lesson: Knot Tying

•In mountaineering knot tying is one of the important skills that hikers need to develop to have a successful climb. The trick is
to know which knot is to use and how to do it right. Remember that every knot should possess the following qualities; it is easy to
tie, holds when tied correctly, and is easy to untie.

A.) Knots for Joining

1. Square knot: This type of double knot that is made symmetrically to hold securely and to be easy to untie. Example is for tying
bundles and packages.
2. Fisherman’s knot: The fisherman’s knot is a knot for joining two lines with a symmetrical structure consisting of two
overhand knots, each tied around the standing part of the other.
3. Double fisherman’s knot: The double fisherman’s knot or grapevine knot is a knot used to join two lengths of rope. This knot
and the triple fisherman’s knot are the variations used most often in climbing, arboriculture, and search and rescue.
4. Sheet bend: This knot is used for temporarily fastening one rope through the loop of another. It can also be used for tying
ropes of different sizes.

B) Hitches - A hitch is a type of knot used for binding rope to an object. Example a pole, post, or a ring.
1. Clove hitch: It is a kind of knot by which a rope is secured by passing it twice around a spar or another rope that it crosses at
right angles in such a way that both ends pass under the loop of rope at the front. This knot is commonly applied in tent pitching
or attaching rope to a peg.
2. Two half hitches: The two half-hitches is a type of knot, specifically a binding knot or hitch knot. It consists of an overhand
knot tied around a post, followed by a half-hitch. Equivalently, it consists of a half-turn around a post followed by a clove hitch
of the running end around the standing part.
3. Taut line hitch: The taut-line hitch is an adjustable loop knot for use on lines under tension. It is useful when the length of a
line will need to be periodically adjusted in order to maintain tension. It is made by tying a rolling hitch around the standing part
after passing around an anchor object. This type of knot is applied in a tying a tent guy line. In order to tighten or loosen the lines
push the hitch downward or upward.
4. Timber hitch: This knot is used to attach a rope to a log or spar. In the mountain it is used to raise logs, drag them over the
ground or push them through water.
5. Constrictor knot: The constrictor knot is one of the most effective binding knots. Simple and secure, it is a harsh knot that
can be difficult or impossible to untie once tightened. It is made similarly to a clove hitch but with one end passed under the
other, forming an overhand knot under a riding turn.

C) Knots for Loops: In reference to knots, loop may refer to: one of the fundamental structures used to tie knots. Specifically,
it is a u-form narrower than a bight. A type of knot used to create a closed circle in a line.
1. Slip Knot - It is a running knot that can be undone by a pull. This type of knot is applied for tying pieces of firewood, bundling
up a rolled sleeping bag or tent.
2. Bowline: This is an ancient simple knot used to form a fixed loop at the end of the rope or loop that will not close. It has the
virtues of being both easy to tie and untie; most notably, it is easy to untie after being subjected to a load. The bowline is
sometimes referred to as king of the knots because of its importance. It is also called the rescue knot.
3. Bowline casting method - If synthetic rope is used to tie this knot, it will be less reliable. It is a good idea to secure the end
with an extra half hitch, or tuck it and trap it beneath one of the rope strands.
4. Figure-of-eight knot - The figure-eight or figure-of-eight knot is a type of stopper knot. It is very important in both sailing
and rock climbing as a method of stopping ropes from running out of retaining devices.
5. Threaded Figure-of-Eight Knot - the threaded figure-of-eight knots are applied to help anchor inexperienced climbers. This is
the most common way of attaching a rope to the harness.

ROPEMANSHIP
- Ropes are essential in climbing. Small ones have a variety of uses; from securing a tent to making a clothesline. Large ones
can provide safety to the climbers.
- Only kernmantle ropes can be static or dynamic. A static rope has low stretchability, some don’t even stretch at all. A dynamic
rope has the ability to stretch and is more elastic than a static rope; this kind of rope is often used in rock climbing.

TYPES OF ROPE
1. Laid Rope: This type of rope can be natural or synthetic; fibers are twisted into yarns, the yarns are twisted into strands, and
the strands are twisted into rope. Laid or hawser rope with a diameter of around 11 mm and made of strong nylon make an
excellent general mountaineering rope. It is ideal for river crossing as a safety line.
2. Kernmantle Rope: It came from German Kern, meaning corn and mantle, meaning sheath. This construction and special
materials give the rope a high tensile strength, superior protection for abrasion, and comparative freedom from twisting. The
kernmantle rope is available in a number of diameters ranging from 5 mm (accessory cords) to 11 mm. Due to its ability to
stretch, it is best for rock craft.

Lesson: CAMPSITE SELECTION AND CAMP SHELTER

CAMPSITE SELECTION
- After a whole day trek, find a safe and comfortable place to spend your night. Here are the criteria in establishing a campsite.
- The site should have sufficient water drainage.
- The site should have protection from strong winds.
- The ground should be covered with grass or dead leaves to provide a cushioning effect for a comfortable night's rest.
- The site should have a water source at a reasonable distance
- A panoramic view of the area could be taken into consideration when selecting a campsite to appreciate the beauty of nature.
- Avoid camping in an area that is prone to landslides. The site should also be free from poisonous plants and dangerous animals.

NOTE: The probability of finding all the above is quite remote, but the more of them you can get in one site the better.

Mountaineer’s life depends on shelter. It is a common practice for all mountaineers to bring their own shelter on a trip to the
mountain. A tent is a good investment for your protection outdoors

CHARACTERISTICS OF A GOOD TENT

1. Roomy • You first have to consider how many people the tent is going to hold. You don’t want a tiny, uncomfortable tent if it’s
going to be for two or more people. That will make the whole camping experience unpleasant. Even though some tents say they
can fit four people, they don’t always do it comfortably, so you should be sure before buying.
2. Lightweight and easy to set-up • People often associate lightweight with cheapness, but that’s simply not true. Newer
technologies allow for more durable and lightweight material that’s more efficient than some of the older stuff. A good light
tent is important to have, especially if your campsite is far down a trail. You also want to make sure it’s not that difficult to
set-up because there could be times when you’re racing against the clock to get the tent up before sundown.
3. Durable • If you’re someone who goes camping often, avoid the cheap temporary fixes to your tent problem. Buy a tent for
quality and durability over cheap and easy. A good tent should last more than a couple years, even when it’s exposed to the
harshest conditions.
4. Warm or Cool • People who are buying tents for the first time might assume their sleeping bags will do the bulk of the work
when it comes to warming themselves up, but you should consider the times you go camping most. If you’re only a summer
camper, you don’t need to get one built for four seasons, but if you’re thinking about going camping in the winter or colder
weather, get a warm tent.
5. Waterproof • No matter what season you go camping in, you sometimes find yourself caught in a rainstorm, which is why you
need to make sure your tent can withstand water. The worst thing that could happen is your tent lets in too much water and
everything gets soaked. You also want to make sure there is proper airflow, so there’s not too much condensation inside

TYPES OF TENTS
- Non-free standing tents need to be pegged to the ground in order to support themselves. Example is a classic A
– Type - A free standing tent need not be pegged in order to maintain its structure. They can also be moved around after being
pitched. Examples are A – Frames and Domes.
1. The classic triangular A – Type body is stretched and staked to the ground tightly with guy lines and is supported by two (2)
vertical poles at each end.
2. The A – Frame is an innovation of the A-type classic. The body is supported by intersecting poles on each end with the central
horizontal pole to keep the whole tent taut.
3. The tunnel shaped tent is supported by looped frames usually tapering on one end. This has an edged since it is aerodynamics,
but more cramped than other tent
- Four (4) Persons
4. The Dome is supported by arching poles forming a Dome frame. Normally the dome has three (3) poles, forming a hexagonal
floor but the more poles a Dome has, the more it can withstand strong winds
Note: Usually, the lower the tent, the more stable it is on a high winds, but it is less spacious inside

A) Tent Pitching
Practice setting up your tent before you goes camping:
• Select a location free of debris for your campsite. Also consider a flat area and free of sharp objects.
• Once you've found a good area to set up camp, it's time to unpack your things. Unpack the tent and all of its parts.
• Unfold the tent and lay it in the respective area. Lay down your footprint or ground cloth. This layer of plastic provides
waterproofing and protects the tent body from sharp stones and sticks.
• Position the tent over the footprint with the doors facing away from the wind for optimal ventilation.
• Insert your tent poles through the frame, raise the tent, and hammer in your tent pegs. . In case of hard rock soil, screw the
peg instead of hammering it with the rock. On loose soil, place a heavy rock on top of each peg. Always hold the pegs or stuff
them in a pocket while pitching the tent to avoid losing them and set up the rain-fly.
Move your things into the tent. In case of strong winds; attach extra guy lines. Make sure it can be seen especially at night so
people won’t trip over them.
• When it comes to pitching down, clean the tent; then reverse the procedure mentioned for pitching. Put the tent body into its
bag before storing. Clean-up the campsite; replace rocks and fluff up the grass cogon. Make the area as if no one has been there.
NOTE: In large a group, the team leader decides where the tent would be pitched, especially in a campsite with limited spaces

B) Improvised Shelter - It is a must for a mountaineer to have knowledge in making an improvised tent, although different types
of tents are available in the market, but sometimes things happen like broken tents. As mountaineers, we are obliged to raise a
temporary shelter.
1. If there are two adjacent trees present you can make an A-Type tent as your improvised shelter; tie a line connecting the
trees. Fold the ground sheet into two along its length and hang it on the line. Tie the corners to the ground using strings and
pegs. If there are no available trees, you may improvise poles from strong branches. Drive these two at opposite ends of the
groundsheet. You may attach the groundsheet. At the ends of the poles or connect the tips with the line.
2. If you have good weather a Lean-to improvised tent is an ideal shelter for hikers. Using two improvised poles or two adjacent
trees; attach the two corners of the groundsheet to the poles or trees and peg the remaining two corners. It is a major factor t
that you note the wind direction when using the Lean to improvised tent; the exposed side of the groundsheet should be facing
where the wind is coming from.