P0410 troubleshooting DIY

Recently began troubleshooting a P0410 code on our 1997 E420 with an M119 engine having 165,000
miles. Was amazed at the number of ways a Secondary Air System can fail, and be misdiagnosed to
great expense. This is an age related trouble code that many are going to have to deal with. So,
decided to roll together some good source material into a DIY troubleshooting guide and perhaps save
someone some bucks. (No guarantees!) Similar issue for others for clogged injection ports resulted in
dealerships recommending multi-thousand dollar ‘head polishing’ to clear cylinder head ports. This may
be the technical proper fix, but I don’t mind taking awhile to troubleshoot and try other alternatives.

Here is one horror story: “E420 M119 (not mine) - So I took the new ECU to the MB dealership
and asked them to install it. They suggested doing a diagnosis first, cost $240.00. OK, fine.
The air injection pump was good and so was the computer already in my car (just bought
one from ebay in a futile attempt to fix the code). They said that the air injection ports were
clogged and the only way they could fix it "properly" was to disassemble the engine and
clean it. Estimate: $3,500.00.”

To hopefully help avoid someone paying a ridiculous amount of cash buying parts and service without
knowing the problem (e.g.: MAF, Air Pump, O2 sensors, ECU, cylinder head cleaning, switchover valves),
this thread is a logical troubleshooting guide to a Secondary Air System fault (aka Smog Pump). To get
started, Workshop instructions are also attached, but are written at a high level for a trained mechanic
(which I am not). By themselves, the instructions are not much use if knowledge of the system is lacking
or rudimentary. A Mercedes Tech Training slideshow on Secondary Air Systems is linked here to get a
start on fundamentals of system operation.
http://www.mercedestechstore.com/pdfs/508%20Systems%20II/508%20HO%20Part%2012%20Emissio
n%20systems%20(WJB)%2004-01-01.pdf For the final in fundamentals, this is a great U-Tube video
on simple troubleshooting a P0410 check engine light code for a Saturn:
http://c230airfilter.blogspot.com/2012/02/p0410-secondary-air-injection-system.html
These simple steps generally apply to all engines.

Anyway, source material is from all over the Benzworld forum and web, in particular from the gurus on
the W163 forum 43sqd and WitekM who have helped out quite a few members. Billy22Bob, Mercedes
Mechanic and others have posted some useful information also copied herein. Unfortunately, due to
the smaller number of W220’s out there, there is not quite as much experience to troubleshooting on
this forum, but the M113 engine is also used in the W210 and W163 platforms, which have some good
threads for research.

And don’t forget - If your vehicle is out of bumper-to-bumper warranty, check if the emissions warranty
is still valid for free repairs!!!!!!! (e.g. up to 80,000 miles or 8 years from time of sale)

DISCLAIMER – This write up is intended to be a summation of troubleshooting steps for a P0410 code on
a MB vehicle. Your vehicle may be different. Nothing contained herein is intended to be a substitute for
sound mechanical practices, or for OEM workshop instructions. I am not liable to anyone performing
these steps as written. WARNINGS - There are electrical, chemical, and burn hazards in troubleshooting
this code. Chemical cleaning of the cylinder heads can result in a bent piston rod or other engine
mechanical damage if the cleaning solvent is not properly removed by hand turning the engine. Skip this
thread and find a competent mechanic if this is your first foray into the automotive DIY world.

Lastly, the companion system to Secondary Air Injection is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system which
throws the P0400 CEL code. A description on how to disassemble the EGR is near the end of this
posting.

If anyone has corrections to make, or additional insights, please chime in.

atm

DETAILS OF OPERATION

Summary of Operation for Secondary Air System from Wiki:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secondary_air_injection
in summary.....
"......As emission control strategies grew more sophisticated and effective, the amount of
unburned and partially burned fuel in the exhaust stream shrank, and particularly when the
catalytic converter was introduced, the function of secondary air injection shifted. Rather
than being a primary emission control device, the secondary air injection system was
adapted to support the efficient function of the catalytic converter. The original air injection
point became known as the upstream injection point. When the engine is cold, air injected
at this point cleans up the extra-rich exhaust and raises the temperature of the exhaust so
as to bring the catalytic converter to operating temperature quickly. Once the engine is
warm, air is injected to the downstream location — the catalytic converter itself — to assist
with catalysis of unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide...."

Secondary Air System Major Component functions:

 The Air Pump draws in air through a maintenance-free filter and pumps it to the Air
Pump Switchover Valves.
 The Air Pump Switchover Valves prevent exhaust gases from flowing back into the
Air Pump.
 The Air Pump Switchover Solenoid is supplied with vacuum from the intake manifold
through a check valve.
 When the Air Pump Switchover Solenoid is activated, it passes engine vacuum to the
Air Pump Switchover Valves.
 The air which is delivered via the Air Pump Switchover Tube is forced through the
valves into the cylinder head openings to the exhaust.
 The injected air reacts with the hot exhaust gases in the outlet port.

When necessary the engine computer commands the switchover valve to open and at the
same time it commands the air pump relay to activate which turns on the air pump. At
initial startup --the Electronic Control Module (ECM) is programmed to start the air pump if
3 permissive conditions are met. These three conditions are; 1. That the coolant is between
10 and 60 C., 2. The gas pedal is not pressed to the floor and 3. The engine speed is under
3000 RPM. Once these 3 conditions exist then the Air Pump is turned on by the ECM until
the Oxygen sensors tell the ECM that the catalytic converters have heated up and are now
working properly (which is usually less than 90 seconds). Once the Air Pump (and the
Switchover Relay) are turned off by the ECM they SHOULD NOT activate again unless an
Oxygen Sensor feels that the catalytic converter is not working properly. The "Coolant
Sensor" and the "Coolant Pump" are NOT what tells the ECM to turn on the Air Pump
(Permissive circuit). An oxidation of carbon monoxides (CO) and hydrocarbons (HC) takes
place and results in an additional increase in the exhaust temperature. The purpose of the
Secondary Air Pump is to blow extra oxygen into the exhaust UNTIL the catalytic converters
quickly heat up and start working properly. Once they heat up --the Air Pump should no
longer run.

A MB Technical Description and diagram is in post 27:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1535734-air-injection-system-diy-3.html
See schematic and photos.

FAQs

1) Will my car pass emissions testing with a CEL from P0410? If your check engine
light is on because of the fault code you will not pass emissions. A faulty O2 sensor
can potentially set the code but the CEL code will also be set if the air injection is not
functioning.
2) What does OBD Code P0410 refers to?
The P0410 code refers to the emissions system. The AIR pump puts air to the
exhaust to lower emissions. It takes in outside air and pumps it through two one-
way check valves into each bank of the exhaust. About 90% of the time that this
code is set, the one-way check valves have worn out or failed and allow water (which
occurs naturally in the exhaust) back into the pump. In any cold climate, especially
in climates with higher humidity, this water may be more excessive. The water
partially fills the AIR pump, it can then freeze. When the PCM commands the pump
on, if the pump is frozen it cannot turn, thus overloading the circuit and "popping"
the fuse.
3) What are the Symptoms?
Possible symptoms of OBD code P0410 include: CEL illumination, obvious hesitation
on acceleration, Noise from a bad/stuck on AIR pump.
4) What are the Possible causes of OBD code P0410?
A code P0410 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Water
may have collected in the AIR pump, or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded,
the pump motor fuse opens due to residual water freezing up in the air pump. Water
vapor collecting could also cause a blown fuse or damage the air pump. A stuck
relay can cause the pump motor to run continuously and burn out. Inadequate
power to the pump motor can be also caused by corroded contacts. A reed in the
check valve can be carbonized. The switchover valve can be defective. The vacuum
ports in the head can become clogged. Vacuum lines can leak after becoming brittle
with heat and age. A vacuum line can become disconnected during maintenance. A
check valve in the vacuum line can become clogged. An O2 sensor can fail. The
secondary air pump injection hose line can fail.
5) Will a P0410 leave me stranded?
No, P0410 will not leave you stranded. However, under some conditions, delaying
repair can result in damage to other components. Continued running/overuse of the
secondary air pump will burn it out.
6) I have the same code that has showed up (P0410) and I’m getting loss of power
when driving, I have read some things over the net and most are saying that 90% of
 the time it will be the check valve?? Is this right and how do I tell before I spend a
fortune?! REPLY - The loss of power has nothing to do with the code P0410. The loss
of power without a registered code can be attributed to a faulty catalytic converter.
7) I think I found and repaired the cause of the P0410 code, but still got a CEL – why?
The issue is that it has to go through a predetermined number of drive cycles where
the pump starts and self tests before it will stop pending a code (that was recently
reset) or throw a CEL code.

TROUBLESHOOTING SYMPTOMS and INITIAL CONDITIONS

Troubleshooting steps with a locked in P0410 are broken into three sections by Symptoms:

1) Secondary Air Pump runs all of the time.

2) Secondary Air Pump does not run at all.
3) Secondary Air Pump starts and stops periodically.

You should hear your air pump spin when the engine is cold. (Sounds like someone turned
on a hair dryer in the engine bay). If you hear it, the air pump and motor are fine.

Air injection relay and air pump switchover valve (Y32) are actuated by the motor electronics control unit
simultaneously for maximum of 90 seconds after engine start, if:
- Coolant temperature > 10 °C and < 60 °C
- Engine speed < 3000 rpm
- Throttle valve not fully opened.

For troubleshooting, ensure that these initial conditions are met:

Coolant temperature when starting is less than 40 °C

- Coolant temperature during test 70 up to 106 °C
- Air conditioning OFF
- Engine at idle
- Vehicle stationary
- Lambda control enabled
- Air pump activated at least once after engine start
- no fault in voltage supply for purge control valve, air pump control valve and electric
air pump
- No fault in purge system
- no fault in throttle valve actuator
- no combustion misfires
- No fault in oxygen sensor upstream of TWC, aging
- No fault in CAN data bus
- Self-adaption of the mixture formation not at limit
- Air pressure more than approx. 780 hPa (i.e. no test is performed above a height of
approx. 2500 m) So sorry for those of you living in Denver.

Problem 1 - Secondary Air Pump runs all the time

Potential Cause: A sticking relay which could keep the air pump on at all times will
eventually burn up the pump and motor, then the burnt (locked motor) pump would in turn
draw excessive (A) then eventually blow the 40A fuse or overheat a control circuit.

The Air Pump should then run for a maximum of 90 seconds, but usually shuts off after
about 30 seconds. If the pump runs continuously then the relay Secondary Air Pump motor
relay is likely failed in the closed position and should be replaced. On some models, there
are other non-critical relays in the chassis that can be substituted to verify this is the failed
component. (e.g. windshield water pump motor relay) If substituting, ensure that the
relays have identical ratings printed on the outside case.

Under some conditions, delaying repair can result in damage to other components.
Continued running/overuse of the secondary air pump will burn it out. Just pull the relay for
now so not to burn up the pump until you get a new relay.

RESULTS - 43SQD keeps saying check the relay first, and we all jump on the valves. While
cleaning the valves surely helped, the relay looks like the main culprit here, and it seems in
a few other cases. Please remember this!!!

RESULTS - I took the pump off and found that some parts had melted through the outer
casing. When i tried to turn it by hand there was resistance and then a bunch of shards fell
out, this thing is toast. The wiring going to the pump is good except for the partially melted
positive wire coating which i sealed back up with some electrical tape (it was partially
melted when the internal parts melted through the plastic pump casing. I took it apart and
the part that blows the air was seized up and when shaken i can hear things rattling around
inside the electric part of the motor. Everything thus far has pointed to the pump (the fuse
not blowing when the pump is unplugged yet blowing every time when it is plugged in, plus
the damage to the outside of the physical pump).

Problem 2 - Secondary Air Pump does not run at all.

Potential Causes include: burned out/overheated air pump motor or brushes (symptom of failed relay),
fuse blown, overheated circuit connections, oxidized contacts.

The Air Pump lists for $765.........not a wise investment until you are certain it is bad.
Used ones can be sourced on ebay for less, but with an iffy operating history. If it is the Air
Pump – To replace is one screw to remove plus the wires and hose @ 15 minutes.

You can turn the pump crank by hand with the engine shut off. That will tell you if the pump
is locking up. If locked up – this could be a symptom of water intrusion or overheating from
a failed relay (which had caused constant running and lockup. Fuse will be blown in this
case). You can also inspect the clutch that is on the pump; what you are looking for is little
shards of metal indicating failure.

Check the fuse (the 40amp). Keep in mind that if the fuse has blown, it may simply be a
symptom of over current to the air pump motor, and the fuse is performing its job of
protecting the circuit. The root cause may need to be determined if a second fuse blows.

There is no spec or measurement of pump output. It needs to be about as strong as output

of small household vacuum cleaner or 12V car vacuum. If you don't have power going to
the pump there won't be any output at all. Pump comes on only when engine is below 40C
at startup. Best time to check is after sitting overnight.

To jumper out the start circuit and check air pump operation, pull off the top engine cover
and the pump, is on the top or to the side of the engine. Take off the two wire elec.
connector and disconnect the hoses. Remove the electrical connector at the air pump and
run two separate wires (10 gauge or better) from the battery to the appropriate prongs on
the pump. Attach a wire from the neg. cable on the battery and a wire from the positive
cable (long enough to reach the pump). Apply the neg. wire to where the BROWN wire was
on the pump and then apply the positive wire to where the RED/WHITE wire was on the
pump. If the pump works you can almost be assured the pump is good and the problem lies
elsewhere. You can do this test at anytime without the key being in the ignition. The pump
should operate. If all the connections are secure and the pump does not run then, the
brushes are gone or the pump is seized.

If you are going to use a booster pack to check air pump operation, remove the connector
from the pump and fashion a jumper wire from the positive cable of the booster to where
the red/wht wire was attached to on pump and do the same from the neg. cable to the
brown wire on the pump. If the pump works, the next step would be to check and see that
it runs with a COLD running engine, that's when the pump is most active.

QUESTION - On the pump itself, I have taken off the electrical connector and on start up
get no voltage accross the red and brown cables (assuming the red is live and the brown is
neutral). Fuse is OK. Could the relay be faulty even though it operates the rear washer? or
would there be another reason I am getting no voltage accross the pump terminals? REPLY
- The Air Pump is commanded on by the Eng. Control Module for a max. of 90 secs. when
the engine is below a certain temp. That is the only time you will see voltage at the
connector.

RESULTS - Had the CEL P0410 issue..................cleaning this that and the other then clear
the code and and still CEL P0410 returned. Finally took out relay (K28) clean up the
connector pins a bit and replace, cleared code and WALA no more CEL P0410.

RESULTS - If you need to check all electrical connections for an intermittent connection,
instructions for the circuit trace in an M112 engine:
1. Take of the fuse cover in engine bay
2. the other part of the electrical box is covered by a cover that is held in by 5 screws if i
can remember correctly, go easy on them they may be seized and are easy to break off if
you push hard.
3. once you have taken off the other piece of the e-box cover you will see a ton of wires and
big rectangular connectors.
4. take-off the engine plastic cover and you will see the two wires that power the fan are
fed towards and around the engine through a set of channels right around the air pump
tubes towards the right ( when standing in front of the engine) and to the back entering the
e-box from the rear. Slowly follow the wires and try to find where and to which connector
they go. they enter the e-box at the yellow circle in picture.
5. in my case the wire was a distinctly thick red with small white stripe. It was going to a
connector that was just sitting on top of the pile above the xbox fan, and it was not screwed
in.
6. Now that you have that identified, you take out the relay and jump the pins, so that
there is constant power going through towards the aux air pump.
7. with a circuit test screwdrivers that light up on 12 volt (you touch the connecting pin on
one side and then on the other to see where the power stops flowing. See where my arrow
points on the picture, you touch the connecting pin from the outside on each side of the
connector and see if power exists on both ends. Based on your description of the problem it
likely doesn't.
8. In my case the connector was showing power on the pin on one side , but not on the
other. I looked closer and realized that one end of the wires was a little out, 2-3 mm more
out then the rest, probably causing the pins inside the connector not to make proper
contact. pushed it in, and VOILA!.

Problem 3 - Secondary Air Pump starts and stops periodically.

Potential Causes - Frequent Air Pump starts mean that the ECU is repeatedly sending a diagnostic test
start due to poor air flow or vacuum in either: from the air pump to the switchover valve, from the
switchover valve to the intake, a vacuum line in the solenoid sensor, vacuum line to the switchover valve
or a faulted vacuum check valve.

Verify if air is flowing from the air pump. Remove the middle of the hose with the green
dotted line, and then from a cold start, start the engine and then feel for air at the vacant
nipple. You should feel air rushing out from the running air pump. If not, check the air
hose connection at the pump end, and verify the air pump is blowing. Either the air pump
flow is weak, or the hose connection needs to be replaced, or the hose is blocked in this
condition.

If air flow is good from the blower, then trace the vacuum line coming out of the valve
covers and make sure they are not broken. If it is weak, then it will trip this code. If it is a
vacuum leak, then fixing the vacuum line will fix the problem and the code will clear itself in
a matter of days. You should be able to feel a vacuum here, and blow into the vacuum
ports on the valve cover gaskets using a clean flexible hose. If not, the vacuum ports are
clogged.

If it has been over 100,000 miles since you changed Oxygen sensors, time to take care of this potential
issue. To find your correct O2 sensor :
http://www.boschautoparts.com/VehiclePartFinder/Pages/VehiclePartFinder.aspx

VACUUM LINE RESTORATION

In the morning when the engine is cold, open the hood and remove the plastic top engine
cover. Have someone start the engine and immediately remove the vacuum hoses at the
nipples to valves 41 and 35 and see that there is vacuum at the end of both hoses.

Check the rubber hoses in bright light to see if there are cracks in the hose that become
apparent when bent different ways. Replace as necessary. Also, be careful with the
"shaped Hosed" on your air pump; these are expensive to replace.
Keep also in mind that the PCV system utilizes small check valves on some of the ventilation
hoses. Especially the hoses from the valve covers across to the front T connection. It is not
likely there is a problem with these check valves, but investigate this while check lines,
especially if the failure mode is not evident by other inspections. The little BLUE check valve
#12 in the illustration is a lessor known issue with the Secondary air injection system. It is prone to
sticking closed. This check valve is between the vacuum control solenoid and the diverter valves which
allow fresh air to flow to the exhaust. When this valve is stuck it can not open the diverters. This sets the
P0410 code, due to the O2 sensors not seeing a change from the fresh air being injected. T ried the MB
part # A0011406660 that's stamped on the part its self. Went to the local Mercedes dealer and they
said the coresponding MB part # had been changed to A 002 140 84 60. I bought one 3 weeks ago from
the MB dealer for $23 taxes included. Chrysler Crossfire Part #05096374AA. local Chrysler dealer and
they said the part # had changed to 5096374AC (and is $35) If you are looking for the valve it is $17.82
at Parts.com Right (passenger) front corner of the engine, under the engine cover. Bright Blue valve in
the vacuum hose. If you change it yourself pay close attention to the position of the arrow (molded into
the plastic) it indicates direction of flow. Just carefully pull the blue valve off. There is an arrow on it so
you know which direction to re-install it.

Hope this helps....See photo below...

Next step – with the engine cold and off, Remove valves 35 & 41. It might be a little difficult
since it could be held in by carbon. Just twist slightly back and forth and clean the lower
mounting bushing on both. Reinstall both valves and on a cold start immediately remove
the small vacuum hoses to 35 & 41 to see if there is vacuum. If there is, let the engine run
until the air pump shuts off. Turn the engine off.

Then remove 35 and 41 again, making sure you also remove the small gaskets. Have
someone start the engine while you place your hand over both holes and you should feel
exhaust pressure coming from both holes. Do this from the side, do not look directly at
the holes as carbon, or exhaust debris might emit. Wear safety glasses.

If there is no exhaust pressure coming from one or both holes then you have an injection
port blockage and that is what's triggering the code.

If there is pressure then you problem lies with the valves 35 & 41. Either the vacuum is not
opening them or they are blocked with carbon, in which case you will have to disassemble
them and clean.

RESULTS - I checked the vacuum line on the intake of the diverter valve and there was no
vacuum present. I chased the vacuum line down to the intake where it plugs into a t-
vacuum section. I unplugged and of course felt plenty of vacuum, so then I knew there was
something wrong there. I chased the hard vacuum line that goes under the Magnetic Cam
Sensor and low and behold the vacuum line was pinched between the sensor and the head.
I could not believe it was something as stupid as that. So I undid the sensor replaced the
vacuum line after putting the sensor back on, fed it back over to the intake and wallah, air
pump is no longer running off and on.
RESULTS - Our 1997 E320 had this error code. Checking the connectors and lines first, I
found the rubber air hose dangling below the air pump - fix was simply a tie-wrap to clamp
it back on.

RESULTS - Although it's only been a week since I implemented this fix and cleared the code,
I think I finally have it licked. I traced out every vacuum hose associated with the system
(there is a yellow diagram of the entire emissions system located in the engine
compartment on the passenger side, twd the back) and began replacing every single hose.
Even though they looked okay, they were old and brittle and some of them pass through
covered areas so I couldn't tell if there were any hidden cracks. I had to break some of
them in order to remove them. After replacing every single hose, the problem appeared to
go away. I cleared the code and it has not come back for a week. The code used to come
back within a day or two so I'm gonna call it fixed. Upon cold startup in the morning, the
pump comes on for a while, then turns off, which is normal. While driving to work however,
I notice that the pump occasionally comes on again for a couple seconds and then turns off
again. Although this may not be normal, it does not repeatedly cycle on and off like it did
before, and the code has not come back so I'm happy enough for now. REPLY - That's how
secondary air injection works. Pump blows air into cats for up to 90 seconds after cold start.
Later when engine is warm it does it again for 10 seconds just to check if system works. If
test fails it gets repeated over and over until CEL comes on.

Read this thread for possible explanation why pump comes and goes with warm engine.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163...ystem-diy.html

DIVERTER VALVE CLEANING

If the pump is blowing air, and the vacuum lines check out, then the problem may be with
the diverter valve.

To clean the secondary air injection diverter valve - Look at the photo in the pdf below. To
the right of the AIR pump is a silver colored valve, there is also one on the left side, but it is
not in the photo. Remove them, disassemble, and clean the inside with brake cleaner.

The easiest way to find out is after the engine is at operating temp. remove the two Phillips"
screws (green arrow) on each Shut-off Valve. Take the top off and then remove both reed
valves. Start the engine and see which bank does not emit exhaust. That is your clogged
bank.

RESULTS - I took out the valves. One eaten screw, otherwise no problem. Both banks are
blowing exhaust into the valves, but the valves are really dirty and the diaphragm looks like
it sticks a tad bit. I cleaned them up but do not anticipate anything will change. The small
hoses look ok as well.

RESULTS - I removed the cutover valves to test if maybe they weren't opening enough to
allow air to flow (i.e. vacuum problem). What I found was interesting and scary. The one on
the driver's side that I replaced was free and clear. The one on the passenger's side
however was a whole different story. It was heavily clogged with carbon. So much so that it
broke at the tube that inserts into the intake. This was fused to the intake and took some
"persuasion" to finally get out. Given that I had removed and cleaned this cutover valve
within the last 6-10 months, I was shocked to find this. What would you suggest as next
step?

REPLY - With a cold engine, clear the code.

Remove the tops of both valve and check to see that the reed valve/diaphragm opens and
closes by pressing on it. Re-assemble.

Remove the vacuum hose on the L/S (driver's) Shut Off Valve and reattach half way.

Have someone start the engine and the pump should run and you immediately check to see
that vacuum is supplied to the end of the hose. Reattach at once.

Remove the top of one Shut-Off valve and remove the vacuum hose and the air hose. Try to
blow air through the air nipple; you shouldn't be able to. Then apply vacuum to the vacuum
nipple and try to blow air through the nipple; now you should be able. Do the same to the
other Shut-Off Valve.

If you pull the canisters and stalk you would feel exhaust pulsing up from the exhaust. Be
extra careful though......Spray kroil and let soak and never lift out straight up, you need to
twist gently to free them and then when free twist and lift. The reeds are inside the sec air
canisters. CAUTION - Once again be very careful with the stalk if you break it they are not
cheap to replace.

Check the lines going to the electronic switchover unit. Spray crc mass air sensor cleaner
liberally down into the exhaust flow path and into the reed valve let soak and evaporate
before assembly.

VACUUM PORT OR INJECTION PORT BLOCKAGE - CHEMICAL CLEANING

If you are sure that the vacuum or injection passages are clogged, then follow this
procedure from a member which had success. (I used Seafoam – only 10 ml into each
vacuum port passage because it is a shorter passage than injection ports - followed by
blowing into a clean tube to clear the passages – the car engine still billowed white smoke
with this small amount – but it worked)

WARNING - Take note of the way your engine revolves prior to performing the fix. Do not
turn the engine the opposite way or a timing chain will jump. A big no no for not turning
engine over by hand after using a top safe cleaner. The Starter motor has enough power to
bend rods if liquid in cylinders is present.
WARNING – Engine cleaners are solvents and will ruin body paint if they come in contact.
Cover your fender when using these flammable solvents – and put down that cigarette!

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163...ml#post4370875

Find in your area who carries BG (or Seafoam) products. You are looking for BG 211
Induction System Cleaner. From Dollar store get plastic funnel. Measure stem on air
injection valve and get something close. Cut funnel so it fits snug into air injection port in
intake manifold.

From computer store get attachments for regular household vacuum cleaner that are used
for cleaning around computers. You need to get something small enough to fit air injection
port.

Using piece of wire (coat hanger, speedometer cable) try to break loose any visible carbon
deposits in air injection port. Keep area under constant vacuum. Whatever breaks loose
needs to get sucked out and not go down the air injection passage. The Passages are cast
into cylinder heads so theyare very rough. Once all visible carbon is out put funnel into port
and pour about 100cc of BG 211. If funnel fills up and nothing goes down let it sit overnight.
It will slowly creep down and open the passage. Go slow and don't overdose. You don't want
liquid to enter cylinders. You may end up with perfectly clean air injection and bent rod.
WARNING - To make sure there is no liquid in cylinders turn engine over by hand (ratchet
with socket) at least two revolutions in the proper direction.

After overnight treatment reinstall all back together, warn your neighbors, fire department
and start your engine. Let it idle with air pump on. There will be very high amount of
noxious white smoke.

Obviously pay more attention to the side that's plugged up but put maybe 50cc in other side
as well. Key to success is to clean some of carbon when things are still dry. Then use 211
and let it sit overnight. After you get things wet with BG 211 you cannot use the electric
vacuum unless you want to risk a serious fire. Instead, would be great to use high volume
of compressed air. Even portable air tank would be better than nothing.

You need to let it sit at least 4-5 hours then chase with air. You may have to repeat process
several times to get the air injection ports cleared.

Take a look at this document. Page 4 shows roughly how the air flows. Holes in exhaust
ports are about 4mm diameter and are pointed towards exhaust valve. That why it is
important to turn engine by hand to slowly clear any liquid that may end up in cylinders.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1633468-ml-430-2001-new-owner-3-
a.html

RESULTS - I just had that problem repaired. My mechanic told me it was clogged inside and
he put some liquid in the tubes and let it sit for awhile like 4-5 min and the he manually
turned on the air pump and it started working again.
RESULTS -I put the BG211 into the ports on both sides. On the passenger's side, used
50cc's...It didn't pool in the funnel. I'm guessing it went through to the exhaust. On the
driver's side, used 100cc's...went in clear and pooled in the funnel....after about 2 hours the
solution was black like tar. The next night, used a syringe with a length of tubing to move it
around a bit, and then siphoned out the liquid and added new. Tonight did the same thing.
One note...this stuff eats through plastic. A small Dixie cup is no match for it, and it ate the
tubing.

RESULTS - Today I brought the car to my friend\'s shop again. We took apart the diverter
valve. Checked it again off the car and looked for carbon build-up inside. It passed the
functioning test and was actually quite clean. That is not the problem. We then poured cat
safe top end engine cleaner down the tube that leads into the engine ports, after noticing a
very small restriction in air flow. We wanted to make sure those ports were clean and all
were flowing 95-100%. We blew the cleaner thru the engine with lots compressed air and
let it sit. Then started the car and used a resistor to trick the ECU into turning on the air
pump, which threw the remaining cleaner out the tail pipe in the form of a lot of highly toxic
smoke! I could smell a lot of oil/carbon in the smoke. We then checked for the air flow
across the top of the head out the exhaust and it had improved. We put everything back
together.
The idle is so constant now, but the exhaust still smells horribly toxic!
The real test comes tomorrow when I cold start the car and see if it runs poorly/see if the
pump stops going into repeated self-check mode.
NEXT DAY - It appears the top engine clean down fixed the problem!!!!! Pump runs from
cold start for 1 minute, then at first available idle it cycles ONE TIME for ONE second and
when it turns off.... NO STUMBLES!!! No CEL, no running issues, no massive engine tear
down! It looks like one or more of those head ports must have been restricted just enough
to cause the problem. What a pain in the a$$ this was to fix!! I wish someone would have
told me this from the beginning.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve

Sometimes is confused with the Secondary Air Injection System. They are complementary, the EGR
picking up when the SAI system switches off, and throw different codes.

EGR Tube Clean Out, Finally!!!!!

I have the P0400 code and want to clean the EGR tube on my 00 ML430. After I removed,
engine cover, I removed the air filter box, MAF sensor. I could not remove the remaining air
intake pipe. I could disconnect it from the engine, but there is not enough room to take it
out no matter how I twist it. Did anyone remove and clean the EGR tube on a V8? Do I
have to remove the coolant tank in order to have more room? Thank you in advance for all
your replies.
The first thing I did was remove the coolant tank, I took out the hose that is at the fire wall
and plugged it so that the coolant would not come out. I placed the tank on top of the
manifold to have a clear view to the air inlet tube. The inlet tube has a hose on the right
lower end attached that is pretty tight and must come of in order to remove the inlet tube
from the throttle body. Remember that there is a clip that needs to be pressed for it to
come loose at the top of the tube as well as the screw attached to the cylinder head. What
I did was remove the egr to have easier access to remove the pipe. By removing the egr
valve I was able to remove the pipe and clean it with ease.

They do pack a lot of stuff in there! Standing near the fender on the passenger's side you
are looking over the cap that covers the transmission oil fill pipe. The first round hole you
see is the top of the EGR valve with the pipe removed. Note: you will not see this if you
don't remove the air intake piping from the mass air flow meter to the back of the engine.
The EGR pipe is easy to spot with it's corugated bend. Don't let those goofy bolts throw
you. 8 and 10 mm sockes with 12 points work fine.

I had an engine light P0400 which meant an EGR valve malfunction. It is interesting to note that when I
checked my EGR valve, the nut securing the EGR tube to the valve was completely loose...!!!

Overall it took me about hour and a half and at an easy pace. It is a lot easier to change it once you
understand what needs to be done. I had already removed many of the components a week or so ago, so
I already new what was needed.

Don't have pictures, but these detailed words may be helpful too.

Instructions for EGR tube removal on M112 and M113 engines:

1.- Remove the engine protection plastic cover. Make sure your vehicle is cold and that there is no
pressure on your radiator. Loosen the radiator overflow container cap to make sure any pressure is
released. Then place it back in place and tighten.

2.- Loosen the fasteners to the air filter box and loosen the air box.

3.- Loosen the ring that secures the air tube/duct to the MAF and air filter assemblies. Remove the MAF
electrical connector.

4.- Remove the MAF and air filter assemblies. Put a plastic bag cover on top of the air filter so that no dirt
will accumulate on it.

6.- Remove the radiator container's overflow tube from the securing plastic holder. Do the same on the
other side because you will want to relocate the radiator overflow container but can't be done correctly if
your tubes are still on the the plastic holders.

7.- Remove the two nuts supporting the radiator overflow container, but do not remove the container all
the way out yet. Leave it hanging. Though pull the container out for a second, in order to remove the
electrical plug from the fluid sensor. Then place the container back into the supporting screws.

8.- Remove the radiator fluid into some other container so that when you put the container sideways, it
will not leak too much liquid.

9.- With pliers that have wide sides, press the lock on the tube under the radiator container and slided
back so that you can pull the tube out.

10.- Once the tube lock is out, slide the tube out and place the radiator container quickly on its side (try to
put the removed tube high so that it will not drip fluid), to the right, so that it will not drip fluid. The
connector where we removed the tube will be now on the top since we turn the container to it's side so
that it will not drip too much. Don't worry if some liquid spills, it should be minimum.

The main goal here is to move away the radiator container to one side so that we can have access to the
EGR area. By turning the container to the side, we do not need to remove all the other container
connections and there will be little spill.

11.- There is a small black plastic container attached to the air tube going to the engine. It is not bolted
and you can just push out the hose connecting to the air duct and remove it.

12.- There is one star bolt securing the air duck on the right side of the engine (on the side of the battery
which is on right side of the engine). You need to remove this bolt which secures the duct.

You can use a plain socket that fits tightly into the star bold to remove them. I used an adapter, too, in
order to use a larger wrench so that I can have more torque when loosening the bolts.

13.- Slide your hand down the air dcut all the way where it goes inside the engine. There is a tube that
attaches to this duct. You need to loosen it.

14.- Now the only thing securing the tube is a plastic lock that connects to the aluminum engine. You will
need to pull carefully the whole assembly back so that the duct will pop from the engine and from the
securing plastic lock.

15. Once it pops out, you can manuever the duct all the way out.

16.- Be very careful because there is another plastic tube close to the air duct plastic lock that can pop
out. You may want to spend some time making sure where are all the hoses connecting around, just in
case.

17.- Once the engine air duct is out, you have complete access to the egr valve.

18. Look at your brand new EGR valve part and check how everything connects. This will help you
understand how the old part will come out.

19.- Unscrew the big nut holding the EGR metal tube that goes to the engine.

20.- Once you pop out the tube and move it a little bit out of the way, you can remove the electrical EGR
connector and then have access to the two bolts securing the EGR valve.

21.- This bolts are difference in size (bigger) than the one that was supporting the air duct.

22.- Loosen the two bolts that secure the EGR valve using a rachet and an extension to make it easier..

23.- WARNING: THERE IS A METAL GASKET THAT GOES BETWEEN THE EGR VALVE AND THE
ENGINE. BE CAREFULL NOT TO LOSE IT WHEN YOU REMOVE THE EGR VALVE.

24.- Clean the metal gasket or replace it if you have bought a new one (pcy on Benzworld recommends
always replacing this or you might have bad seating and you'd have to disassemble everything again to
get to it).

25.- Remove one plastic tube that connects the EGR valve to the engine.

26.- Now you can remove the EGR valve making sure not to lose the metal gasket,

27.- Clean out all the sorroundings and make sure everything looks fine.

28.- I did not take my EGR metal tube out, but this is the time to do it if you are going to clean it.

29.- Resintall everything in reverse order.

30.- For me I put the two screws on the EGR valve and slided the EGR gasket into position in between
the screws. So the two screws are vertically down on the holes of the EGR valve and I am holding the
gasket in place with my fingers.

31.- Now carefully position the EGR valve (holding the gasket in place) in the engine position. Still holding
the gasket with your fingers, align the screws into the engine screw holes and once both are aligned,
screw them carefully by hand a little bit so that they are in place. This is the only way I was sucessful on
making sure the gasket installed correctly without moving out of place.

32.- Install back every thing back and make sure you do not forget to connect any of the hoses. Make
sure you connect the hoses to the plastic holders, too. Otherwise, the hoses will move around and can
touch engine parts and get damage or burn.

33.- Use your OBDII to reset the engine codes.

34.- If you have a good OBDII scanner, you can drive you vehicle around until you can see the EGR tests
pass. This may take some riding and turning the engine off and on a couple of cycles during the riding
around.

35.- In my case, I did not clean the EGR tube, which means that if I still have a problem, then I will need
to go ahead and clean it. I did not do it since my ML only has 69,000 miles and I use a guided wire into
the egr valve and could not get any traces of gunk or obstruction, so I decided to run the risk.

I put a thick towel on top of the engine to make it more comfortable to work laying somewhat on top of it. I
had a stool so that I can easily reach the rear of the engine from the front of the vehicle.