How to Add Sparkle to an Emerald Cut

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Emerald Cut

by Donald Clark, CSM IMG

SUMMARY

Not just for emerald gemstones, an emerald cut is an excellent choice for weight
reten on and color enhancement. However, as a trade off for these quali es, it’s sadly
lacking in brilliance and sparkle. As a custom gem cu er, I usually strive for a dazzling
display of light. A er a few years of experimenta on, a solu on finally came clear. I
developed a technique that adds life to this classic cut with only a minimal sacrifice in
weight.

READING TIME: 3 MIN

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 This Nigerian tourmaline features a varia on of the Sparkling Emerald or “Fantasy Cushion,” custom cut by Peter Torraca. It
differs from Donald Clark’s design but does show similari es. 6.15 cts, 7.63 x 14.61 x 7.22 mm, heated. Photo by Peter
Torraca, Torraca Gemcu ng. Used with permission.

Developing Designs for Gems of Varying Propor ons

The first design based on this technique was for gems of standard propor on. I was very pleased with it.
However, I s ll faced the challenge of what to do with some very long crystals of tourmaline and aquamarine
I had in stock. The normal approach would be to cut them as long bague es or saw them in half to create
two smaller, but be er propor oned, gems. Neither of these solu ons sa sfied me. I kept at it un l I found a
way to apply my sparkling emerald cut technique to very long crystals.

These cuts make use of ver cal facets and a curved keel. The finished gems usually have one very bright
spot, which may be accompanied by a less bright spot on either side. At first, I was disappointed with this
effect. My opinion changed, however, a er I carried one of the gems around and saw it in different ligh ng
situa ons.

With this technique, the majority of the light entering the gem is focused into a single brilliant spot of light.
This results in brilliance in so light situa ons where most cuts would simply turn dark. That single point of
light is also incredibly animated. It races from one end of the gem to the other with astonishing speed. The
sparkling emerald cut technique doesn’t yield finished gems as dazzling as more symmetrical gems. However,
this technique is a significant improvement over a standard emerald cut. It’s very prac cal for wear, especially
for so ly lit evenings. And as an added bonus, the facet size is reduced for easier polishing.

The Sparkling Emerald-Cut Pavilion: Step-By-Step

This design is shown with a 96 index gear and can be used on any propor oned gem. It’s quite easy once you
have cut one or two stones. The mains adjust very easily during pre-polish, so you have room for error in the
first cu ng.

1. Begin by shaping the outline at 90º.

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 2. Create a girdle by cu ng a row of facets around the stone at 65º.

3. Set your angle for the pavilion mains (42º or 43º). Cut a set of facets at indexes 1 & 95, 47 & 49, un l
they close the culet. Then cut another set at indexes 2 & 94, 46 & 50, bringing them about a millimeter
from the center. Keep cu ng sets beginning with I 3, another at I 4, etc., un l you run out of room. Be
careful as you get near the ends, as these facets come down to the girdle in a hurry.

4. Finish the mains by raising the angle ½ a degree and cut two facets in the center at I 96 & 48.

5. You will then have to add another facet or two on the sides (55º or so) to blend the mains into the girdle
facets.

The Sparkling Emerald Cut For Long Crystals

This cut is great for those long tourmaline and aquamarine stones. It’s brought many ooh s and aah s from
jewelers who’ve seen the results. With 46 facets on the pavilion, the sparkle and brilliance are outstanding.

Follow the steps in the table below.

PAVILION

Step Angle Index

Girdle 90º 030-090 length

Girdle 90º 120-060 width

Girdle 90º 002-058-062-118

Girdle 90º 004-056-064-116

5 48º 120-060

6 48º 002-058-062-118

7 48º 004-056-064-116
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 8 70º 030-090 ends

9 46º 001-059-061-119

10 46º 003-057-063-117

11 44º 001-059-061-119

12 44º 003-057-063-117

13 43º 120-060

14 43º 002-058-062-118

15 43º 004-056-064-116

16 45º 120-060

17 45º 002-058-062-118

18 45º 004-056-064-116

Steps one through four: create a level girdle. As you cut one through three, aim to get all three facets the
same width, as viewed from the side.

Steps five and six: split the girdle facets and get cut to the girdle. Where those facets meet is where you cut
to for steps seven through eleven.

In the diagram, those meetpoints have been cut over by facets twelve and thirteen. However, it will be
obvious when it’ s on the dop.

For the last three steps, simply trim off corners. (These steps are only used on very large gems).

To finish the crown, step cut it with the same indices used for the girdle.

Happy Face ng!

 About the author

Donald Clark, CSM IMG

Donald Clark, CSM founded the Interna onal Gem Society in
1998. Donald started in the gem and jewelry industry in 1976.
He received his formal gemology training from the Gemological
Ins tute of America (GIA) and the American Society of
Gemcu ers (ASG). The le ers "CSM" a er his name stood for
Cer fied Supreme Master Gemcu er, a designa on of Wykoff's
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 ASG which has o en been referred to as the doctorate of gem
cu ng. The American Society of Gemcu ers only had 54 people
reach this level. Along with dozens of ar cles for leading trade
magazines, Donald authored the book "Modern Face ng, the
Easy Way."

All ar cles by this author

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