Evolution in Knitting Industry

Knitting is a complex industry with two main areas, each of which has its subdivisions of
specializations. The two main areas of the knitting industry are as follows:
 One area produces knitted goods for apparel manufacturers, for sewing centers,
for consumers and others.
 The other area manufactures completed garments like sweaters, hosiery and
underwear.

Knitted garments are very popular in the modern fashion scene. Knitted garments are no
longer confined to lingerie, underwear and stockings. There has been a revolution in
knitwear. The range of styles that can be hand made or purchased is constantly
expanding. It is a known fact that knitted garments are popular with kids since time
immemorial. Children have always worn knitted garments more than adults. They are
especially common for infants. But times have changed today. Knitwear has become
popular for all-men, women and kids.
Today, there has been a tremendous change in technology. A large number of
sophisticated computerized knitting, embroidery machines, dyeing machines, state of the
art sewing lines, CAD/CAM systems, large scale processing machines, and other
machinery required in the knitwear manufacturing have been mostly imported are
installed and functioning for export orders. The major technological developments
provide an essential service to the knitting industry.

Knitting Technology
The art of knitting has changed over the years. From hand knitting to hand operated
machines to computerized machines, the journey is a long one.

Evolution of Hand Knitting

The original art of knitting involved the use of needles which were made of bone or
wood. Dating back into prehistoric times, a primitive hand-knitting technique was
reproduced using one needle and short pieces of fiber. Then came the use of two needles,
which gradually moved to three, and then to four needles, and so on. Slowly, the shape
and size of the needle changed and wooden needles were replaced by smooth metallic
ones. Evolution has been and is still ongoing from hand knitting using one to two needles
to peg frames, knitting frames, circular sock machines, and home knitting machines.
Today, hand knitting still remains a hobby of womenfolk in many parts of the world.
Originally, hand knitting was entirely confined to making socks and stockings. Now, all
sorts of garments like cardigans, sweaters, skirts and shirts are hand-knit.

Evolution of Knitting Machines

The first knitting machine invented in the 16th century by William Lee was meant to
produce 8 loops per inch. Lee himself modified his machine within 9 years to produce 20
loops per inch. After this invention, the art of knitting was gradually taken over by guild-
organized cottage industries. It is interesting to note that even today, the basic technology
of the modern knitting machines is similar to Lee's machine. The full-fashioned machine
was invented in 1864 by William Cotton of Leicestershire, England. He used the same
bearded-spring needle which was a part of the original model of Lee.
Automatic or power-operated knitting machines came into existence in the 19th century.
Gradually, this upgraded to power-operated V-Bed, and circular knitting machines.
Subsequently microprocessor-controlled knitting machines also came into existence.

Computerized Knitting
Computer-Aided Design (CAD) and Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM) have
revolutionized the knitting industry. The 1970s saw the introduction of CAD/CAM
systems. Designers used the CAD system to create product designs and these were
transferred to CAM machines to manufacture the final product. CAD/CAM technology
replaced the mechanical patterning and shaping devices on machines with electronic
controls. These systems enabled companies to respond quickly to changes in demand.
New designs could be set up using CAD and quickly produced on the CAM machine.
Though manually operated flat and V-bed knitting machines are still used, computerized
technology is also preferred.
Initially, this system was expensive and only the major companies could afford it.
However, in the 1980s and 1990s CAD/CAM fell in price and even the small and
medium sized companies invested in this new technology. The introduction of this
technology enabled companies to work globally, and on a fast scale.

Introduction of Wholegarment Knitting

Side by side with the CAD/CAM knitting technology, the process of whole garment
knitting was introduced. Cutting fabric into shapes and then stitching the pieces together
to create garments has been in practice since the eighteenth century. In the 1970s
companies researched more efficient technologies which could produce a complete
garment in one process without the need for sewing. Without the loss of fabric associated
with cut and sew techniques, garments could be knitted quickly. This was the "Whole
garment Technology" which was further developed in the 1990s by Shima Seiki of Japan.
Shima Seiki achieved this advancement in knitting technology by developing the slide
needle. The slide needle was the result of research of the latch needle and the knitting
process.

Wholegarment knitted clothes provide greater comfort than cut and sew clothes. The
absence of seams means that the garment can fit close to the body and stretch more
easily. Wholegarment machines are also capable of producing complex designs. 2D
knitted fabric is replaced by 3D knitwear, shaped and pleated as required.

Digital Printing on Knitted Fabric

With the advance of science and technology, textile printing on knitted garments has been
dominated by screen printing technology. Advances in digital inkjet printing technology
during the 1990's and early 2000's have resulted in knitting machines that can cost-
effectively transfer designs directly from a computer and print onto fabric.

Scope of Growth
With the advancement of the knitting technology, the use of knitted fabrics is expanding
rapidly all over the world. The Knitwear sector and its markets are constantly evolving
worldwide. This segment of the garment industry has experienced many changes in
recent years. With improved technology, the limitations like shrinkage and torque in
knitted fabrics or garments have been reduced to a great extent and this has opened more
opportunities.
There are various reasons for the growth of the knitting industry:
 The capital investment for starting a new knitting unit is relatively small than that
required for the other fabric producing industries.
 To start a weaving factory, when the spun yarn is available, it would require
preparatory machines before the yarn could be used as warp and weft to weave
into a fabric. No such problem arises to start a knitting unit.
 The high productivity of knitting machine is also a favorable factor for the growth
of the industry. As the preparatory processes for knitting are less than for
'weaving, the time required to get an order executed is less than that required in
the case of woven fabrics.

The setting up of knitting machines to produce a given type of fabric is a faster

and simpler operation than the setting up of a loom.

 Knitting is more flexible than weaving. Styles and designs can be changed with
unparalleled rapidity. Knits are, therefore, geared to quick turnover in keeping
with the frequent fashion changes in the apparel market.
 One of the major factors in the success of knits has certainly been the contribution
made by the fibre and yarn producers in providing the knitter with a wide range of
new yams that have brought new standards of performance and new aesthetics
into the knit market
 The weft knit industry in general and double knit in particular was rejuvenated
due to the development of textured yams. Ladies dresses were the first garments
to be made from textured yarns.
 They were lightweight, hard wearing, shape retaining and crease shedding.
 The knit fabrics have become comfortable and are in tune with the times.
 The present generation is grown up with the permanent press and they are going
to demand wrinkle-free, ease-of-care fabrics. The recent success of knits has been
greatly due to their easy-care properties.
 The mobility of people, in general, has been increased due to facilities for quick
transport Travelers usually need carefree fabrics; and knitted fabrics do comply
with this requirement as they generally require no ironing and are therefore it is
cool for traveling persons. Also for swimwear and sportswear, knitted fabrics are
the most comfortable ones.

With the high cost of labor, the weaving process has disadvantages because of
the high complement of labor required to weave fabrics.
  Knitting units require very less labor and hence all problems related with labor
organization. Wages, benefits to labor etc. are very much reduced in the knitting
industry.
 With the boom in the knitting industry, the machinery manufacturers have also
taken advantage of the situation and have developed highly innovative machinery.
With the aim of high productivity and versatility.
 Technical advancement by the knitting machinery manufacturers is also one of
the causes for the growth of the knitting industry.
 Compared to the woven, designing new knitting machines have a high
adaptability and the scope for designing is required more in the case of knitted
fabrics compared to that for woven fabrics.
 Recently warp knitted fabrics are being used to a very great extent in geotextiles
medical textiles, safety textiles, automobile textiles and many other functional
textiles. A new vista of 'Technical Textiles' has been opened up with innumerable
end uses for the knitted structure.

Knitted Spacer Fabric

Spacer fabrics have been touted as one technique which could thrust warp knitting into a
new era of apparel and technical textile success.

Table 1. Common advantages of 3-dimensionally Knit Spacer Fabric

Physical properties Aesthetic & comfort Other properties
properties
Excellent compression Age resistant Elimination of cut & sew
elasticity operations
Breathability/Air Sterilization capabilities CAD usage
permeability - Design flexibility
- Rapid prototyping
Cushioning Surface resistant Yarn diversity
- Increased attributes
(e.g. wicking,
extensibility)
- Variety of end-
capabilities
Insulation Wash resistance
Good bending performance Temperature regulation
Drapability Light weight
Adjustable vapor transport Diverse surface design
capabilities
Recyclable/Latex free
Moisture and air interact to keep spacer
fabrics dry and comfortable.

The main reasons for the current interest in warp knitted spacer fabrics are three-fold:
extraordinary diversity of end-use; unique physical properties and constantly expanding
surface pattern potential to meet fashion requirements.

For the modern, high tech warp knitting machine of today the aptly described spacer
fabric is in fact, two fabrics produced together on a double needle bed Raschel machine
and connected either by monofilament or other yarns. In general terms, fabrics having
thicknesses of 1.5 - 10 mm can be produced although up to 60 mm is possible for certain
special applications. The space provided by the connecting or pile yarns provides
excellent air permeability, a characteristic that has led to revolutionary new developments
in different applications.
There is rising demand for knit spacer fabrics in the area of automotive and other
transportation media; medical, hygiene and health care: geotextiles, civil engineering,
building and construction: sports and leisure: environment protection, filtration, safety
and protection.

Automotive

Spacer fabrics include car seats where they can contribute to an improvement in climatic
seat comfort. This includes the ability of the seat to regulate the conveying of heat and
moisture from the body. Spacer fabrics also used in seat cushions, head liners, dash
boards, seat packets and luggage compartment covers etc. The luxurious appearance, soft
feel, comfort, potential for small patterns and multi-coloured design made warp knitted
spacer fabrics competitive with the woven and nonwoven fabric.

Medical field

The three-dimensional nature of spacer fabrics makes these ideal for applications next to
the skin. Spacer fabrics as having valuable uses as medical aids in (a) orthopaedic
medicine, (b) for preventing bedsores and (c) in rehabilitation.

Marianne Heide's Institute is one of a number of German organisations working on

projects designed to develop functional spacer fabrics for medical applications. Spacer
fabrics can be used, with fine count polyester yarns as the most suitable pile yarns, in
orthopaedic medicine because they are:

 breathable, with temperature regulating properties

 compression resistant
 have good physiological properties and are soft
 have moisture-transporting ability
 have good surface resistance

Spacer fabrics can be used for alleviating bedsores, either on their own to complement
existing systems and have valuable applications for wheelchair-bound patients. There are
then applications for high temperature-resistant linings for fire-fighters protective
clothing and flame retardant mattress covers.

Sports and Leisure

Spacer fabrics are only in the initial stages of application, mentioned the use of spacer
fabric underwear beneath skin diving suits as producing a significant improvement in
terms of heat retention, perspiration absorption and underwear movement. Other
applications in preparation are sailing suits, extreme condition industrial clothing. As part
of the ongoing revolution in the design and marketing of bras, Karl Mayer's new,
patented three-dimensional bra cups, bikini cups and pre-formed swimsuit cups with a
high degree of wear comfort are replacing foam materials and foam composites.

Sports shoes are one of the big initial success stories for spacer fabrics, making use of
their lightweight, high bulk and springiness. Climate properties, washability and a
superior substitute for laminated foam are other advantages.

This has led to successful experimentations with outerwear applications, where those
properties found in sports shoes can be transferred to sports and leisure apparel.

Karl Mayer's double needlebar Raschel machines RD4N and RD6N are being promoted
for the production of patterned simplex fabrics, fine nets and ultrafine spacer fabrics for
underwear and sportswear.

Geotextiles

Knitted fabrics are not commonly used in geotextiles with 70% of materials used coming
from nonwovens and 25% from woven. Knitted spacer fabrics offer an opportunity for
geotextiles as their construction is exceptionally functional. Both warp and weft knit
spacer fabrics crate the two outer layers with different structures such as grid shape or
mesh which is more effective at grabbing the soil than smooth fabrics. An increase in the
use of knitted spacer fabrics is expected as geotextiles are forecast to be the fastest sector
within the market for technical textiles.

Safety and protection

Knitted spacer fabrics are offers protection against extreme heat and fire, harmful
chemical and gases, mechanical and electrical hazards, radiation, contamination, extreme
cold, virus and bacteria and cur and ballistic hazards. Weft and warp knitting machines
have the ability to produce fabrics using many high performance fibers such as glass,
Nomex, kevelar, Carbon etc.

Logos can be knitted and placed as required and, with the use of the jacquard bar, fabrics
can be produced with higher or lower pile or connecting thread density relative to fabric
area - also with small and larger spaces. This gives different degrees of crush resistance,
an important characteristic for certain end uses. The addition of a piezo electronic
jacquard bar as "destined for the future-oriented market" is one opportunity as especially
important for sportswear is the placement of logos and other effects as and where
required without restriction on height and width repeats. New impetus can be provided
not just for sportswear but also underwear, pockets, seat covers and mattresses.
Despite their constantly expanding influence in technical textiles, warp-knitted fabrics
will always continue to play an important role in the general clothing and fashion world.
The German warp knitting machine builder reported that having breathed new life into
the technical textiles field, spacer fabrics are now beginning to stimulate the creative
talents of fashion designers.

The initial applications of warp knitted spacer fabrics in clothing have been largely
functional and on most occasions hidden from view. They have been used largely in
sports shoes, bra cups, shoulder pads, knee and elbow protectors for example, in fact any
application where there is a need to replace breathable foams.

Apart from causing a stir in the clothing sector as far as appearance is concerned, spacer
fabrics are also an interesting proposition in terms of their making-up characteristics and
especially their wear behaviour.