Kettenwirk Te x t i l i n f o r m a t i o n e n

Praxis

1/2008
Heimtextil 2008 – Warming-up für die kommende Saison
Hometextiles 2008 – Warming-up for the next season
 CONTENTS TEXTILE INFORMATION
FROM KETTENWIRK-PRAXIS

2 FASHION
WHERE HIGH-TECH MEETS CLASSIC
BRIEFS WITH AN ART NOUVEAU LOOK, PRODUCED ON A JL 42/1 B PAGE 2
CAGE KEEPING IS A THING OF THE PAST WARP-KNITTED LINGERIE WITH SEAMLESSLY
BONDED BANDS, PRODUCED BY THE WINNERSUMBIRI KNITTING FACTORY PROVIDES
GREATER FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT PAGE 3
FEWER SEAMS – A RADICAL CONCEPT
BRIEFS REQUIRING VERY LITTLE MAKING-UP, PRODUCED ON THE ML 35 C PAGE 4
A DISPLAY OF BEAUTIFUL ROSES A WARP-KNITTED LACE GARMENT FOR
THOSE SPECIAL OCCASIONS FROM FALKE PAGE 5

6 HOME TEXTILES
CLOSE CONTACT TO HEIMTEXTIL
SUCCESSFUL OUTCOME FOR THE HEIMTEXTIL TRADE FAIR, 09.-12.01.2008
IN FRANKFURT AM MAIN PAGE 6
WARP-KNITTED NET CURTAINS – AN ESSENTIAL ELEMENT OF THE COLLECTIONS
AT HEIMTEXTIL 2008 TRENDS IN WARP-KNITTED NET CURTAINS AS SHOWN
AT HEIMTEXTIL, HELD 09.-12.01.2008 IN FRANKFURT AM MAIN PAGE 8
THE MATTRESS: MORE THAN MERELY A PRODUCT – A GOOD PARTNER
TO HEALTH AND WELLBEING
WHAT IS IMPORTANT WHEN BUYING A MATTRESS? PAGE 12
SPACER ON THE INSIDE, COMFORT ON THE OUTSIDE
SLEEPING COMFORTABLY WITH 3D-TEXTILES, EXAMPLES SHOWN AT THE
IMM COLOGNE PAGE 13
AS COMFORTABLE AS AN ARMCHAIR, AS LIGHT AS A GARDEN CHAIR
THE SLOW CHAIR WITH A TEXTILE COVER FROM THE VITRA HOME
COLLECTION PAGE 16

17 TECHNICAL TEXTILES
LEAD MARKET INITIATIVE FOR EUROPE – THE WAY FORWARD FOR INNOVATIVE COMPANIES
INITIATIVES PUT FORWARD BY THE COMMISSION OF THE EUROPEAN COMMUNITY FOR
DEVELOPING MARKETS OF THE FUTURE PAGE 17
3D TEXTILE SHOCK-ABSORBERS – PERFECT PROTECTION FOR PEDESTRIANS
PROJECT FOR DEVELOPING A TEXTILE-BASED SYSTEM FOR HEAD-IMPACT PROTECTION
OF PEDESTRIANS INVOLVED IN ACCIDENTS PAGE 20
3D THERMAL FABRICS PREVENT THE BODY FROM EXCESSIVE COOLING
DURING SURGICAL OPERATIONS
TEXTILE HEATING SYSTEMS BASED ON WARP-KNITTED SPACER TEXTILES
FOR KEEPING PATIENTS WARM PAGE 23
THE TOPOGRAPHY OF WELLBEING – EMBROIDERED ONTO 3D WARP-KNITTED TEXTILES
EMBROIDERED INSOLES MADE FROM 3D WARP-KNITTED TEXTILES MASSAGE THE FEET PAGE 25
3D WARP-KNITTED TEXTILES AND SILVER – A COMBINATION THAT IS WORTH ITS WEIGHT
IN GOLD FOR WATER PURIFICATION 3D TEXTILE SYSTEMS FOR THE PREVENTION AND
ELIMINATION OF BIOLOGICAL CONTAMINATION OF DRINKING WATER AND OTHER
LIQUID-CONTAINING SYSTEMS PAGE 26
GREEN IS VERY GREEN WHEN THE TEXTILE SUPPORT IS RIGHT
DEVELOPMENT OF NOVEL NONWOVEN-FABRIC-REINFORCED COMPOSITES FOR THE
GEOTEXTILES SECTOR PAGE 28
THE FIRST CLUMP OF EARTH BREAKS NEW GROUND IN BUILDING CONSTRUCTION
CONSTRUCTION OF ECO-FRIENDLY FAÇADES USING SANDWICH ELEMENTS MADE
FROM TEXTILE-REINFORCED COMPOSITES PAGE 30

As to the figures:
The lingerie from the Winnersumbiri Knitting Factory offers fewer seams and greater freedom of movement
The latest developments in interior design were always perfectly presented and shown in the best light at Heimtextil 2008 in Frankfurt/M. (Photo by T. Fedra for Messe Frankfurt GmbH)
Garden chairs with all the features of an armchair from Vitra (photograph courtesy of Vitra)
3D warp-knitted textiles containing silver-treated yarns – as precious as jewels when it comes to water purification (photograph courtesy of silvertex® gmbh)
The embroidered knops on this sporty sole developed by the TITV Greiz create pressure points inside the shoe, which gently massage the foot
KARL MAYER has acquired Ira L. Griffin, a specialist in warp preparation technology for the denim sector – the result is a pair of shoes
How healthy is the European textile industry? A review of the patent statistics provides the answer (photograph courtesy of Jean-Luc Valentin for Messe Frankfurt GmbH)
mtex is the first port of call for anyone wanting to get ahead in automotive textiles (photograph courtesy of Renault)

Kettenwirk-Praxis 1/2008
TEXTILE INFORMATION CONTENTS
FROM KETTENWIRK-PRAXIS

32 WARP PREPARATION
LISTEN TO THE MUSIC – GREATER EXPERTISE IN THE DENIM SECTORS
KARL MAYER EXTENDS ITS AREAS
OF EXPERTISE THROUGH ACQUISITION PAGE 32
-1
SOPHISTICATED MACHINES CAN WARP ELASTANE YARNS AT A RATE OF 400 M/MIN
THE DSE-HH 50/32 – A NEW ELASTANE WARPING MACHINE FROM
KARL MAYER THAT IS 25 % FASTER PAGE 33

35 SPOTLIGHTS
THE EUROPEAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY – AN OLD SECTOR WITH NEW IDEAS?
A STUDY OF PATENT APPLICATIONS COVERING TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY IN
GERMANY FROM 1978 TO 2004 PAGE 35
TWO CHANGES AT CETEX AT THE TURN OF THE YEAR
CHANGES AT THE TOP IN CETEX AND NEW TRADING PAGE 38
PROCAD WARPKNIT BRINGS UNITY TO DIVERSITY AND PUTS IDEAS INTO PRACTICE
V. FRAAS AG & CO. KG IMPLEMENTS THE PROCAD WARPKNIT SYSTEM PAGE 39
A UNITED FRONT MEANS STRENGTH
1 AACHEN-DRESDEN INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE CONFERENCE, 29-30.11.2007
ST

IN AACHEN PAGE 41
DTG – THE BRIDGE TO THE SOUTH-EAST ASIAN TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY
THE 5 DHAKA INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE AND GARMENT MACHINERY EXHIBITION,
TH

21-24.01.2008 PAGE 42

43 TIMER
WITH MTEX IN THE FAST LANE
INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION & SYMPOSIUM FOR TEXTILES AND COMPOSITES IN VEHICLE
CONSTRUCTION, 03 TO 05 JUNE 2008 IN CHEMNITZ PAGE 43
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2008 – TWO GREAT NAMES FOR A COMMON OBJECTIVE
INNOVATIONS AND KNOW-HOW IN A COMBINED PACKAGE AT ITMA ASIA + CITME 2008,
27-31.07.2008 IN SHANGHAI PAGE 44
FIRM SOLIDARITY SHOWN BY THE INTERNATIONAL
FEDERATION OF KNITTING TECHNOLOGISTS
MEETINGS AND CONFERENCES OF THE IFKT SECTIONS GERMANY, 26-27.05.2008
AND SWITZERLAND, 31.03.2008 PAGE 45

46 PATENT
PATENTS – PUBLICATIONS AND SPECIFICATIONS

49 PATTERNS

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Heimtextil 2008 – Warming-up für die kommende Saison
Hometextiles 2008 – Warming-up for the next season
Namentlich gezeichnete Beiträge geben nicht unbedingt die
Meinung der Redaktion wieder. Bei den vorgestellten Maschinen,
Geräten und Verfahren sind technische Änderungen vorbehalten.
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ISSN-Nr. 0170-401X

Abbestellungen bis 8 Wochen vor Jahresende.

Kettenwirk-Praxis 1/2008 1
 HOME TEXTILES

AS COMFORTABLE AS AN ARMCHAIR, AS LIGHT AS

A GARDEN CHAIR
THE SLOW CHAIR WITH A TEXTILE COVER FROM THE VITRA HOME COLLECTION

The trademark of the designers, Ronan are tubular in shape and the fabric is so fine that the tubular frame underneath is
and Erwan Bouroullec, is simple yet intel- completely concealed.
ligent design with the emphasis on func- The cover makes the chair extremely comfortable; it is slightly stretchy and has
tionality. In creating the Slow Chair for ample breathability. A soft, inlaid seat cushion and two small cushions at the back
Vitra, the two brothers were inspired by increase the softness and improve the ergonomic features of the chair. The thick
Eero Saarinen’s famous Womb Chair upholstery associated with conventional chairs is no longer needed.
and Hans J. Wegner’s Flag Halyard The fine-mesh net fabric not only makes the chair comfortable, it also contributes to
Lounge Chair, together with the discreet, the overall look. The fine, translucent fabric ensures that this generously proportio-
high-tech look of a warp-knitted mesh ned item of furniture is very light, both optically and physically. The chair is light
textile. enough to carry around easily, making it the perfect piece of lounge furniture for
The simple, elegant chair from the Vitra temporary use outdoors, for example. Whether in the living-room or the conserva-
Home Collection is an impressive new tory, the Slow Chair is discreet and unobtrusive yet offers maximum comfort.
interpretation of the classic armchair The same material and design principles are used in the Slow Chair Ottoman – the
using the latest technology. This inviting perfect piece of furniture on which to put up one’s feet and relax.
piece of lounge furniture is made from
nothing more than a precisely shaped, Fig.: The Slow Chair from Vitra (photograph courtesy of Vitra)
extremely strong textile and a clever chair
construction.
The frame is made from a tubular steel
circle, which forms the seat, with a broad,
tubular steel curved section screwed onto
it to form the contours of the arms, the
back of the seat and four cast aluminium
legs. The textile is stretched over this fra-
mework rather like a stocking, to create a
perfect fit.
Where the textile cover is connected to
the tubular frame, the edges of the fabric

16 Kettenwirk-Praxis 1/2008
 TECHNICAL TEXTILES

LEAD MARKET INITIATIVEFOR EUROPE – THE WAY

FORWARD FOR INNOVATIVE COMPANIES
INITIATIVES PUT FORWARD BY THE COMMISSION OF THE EUROPEAN COMMUNITY
FOR DEVELOPING MARKETS OF THE FUTURE
The virtues of European entrepreneurs are their inventiveness, pioneering spirit and which, for example, can be attributed to dif-
incredible staying power. On markets that are becoming increasingly saturated and ferent social security systems and a lack of
diverse, the only successful companies are those which have developed innovative interoperability, and have prevented eco-
products and services and which can manufacture and sell them profitably. nomies of scale from being exploited.
But what are innovative products and where are they needed? Additional obstacles to progress include a
The European Commission has answered these questions, among others, in a Lead lack of legal certainty in questions of remu-
Market Initiative, which was presented to a number of European administrative neration and liability, and inadequate infor-
bodies in December of last year. mation on the correct procedures for
The paper cites six areas where there is the greatest market potential for innovation, implementing data protection legislation.
i.e. electronic health (eHealth), protective textiles, sustainable building, recycling, bio-
based products and renewable energies. Sustainable construction
These markets are of enormous economic and social benefit, generate an annual tur- The construction industry accounts for 10 %
nover of more than 120 billion euros, and provide jobs for 1.9 million people in the of GDP and employs 7 % of the entire
EU. By 2020, turnover should rise to more than 300 billion euros and the number of workforce.
jobs should increase to more than 3 million as a result of the Lead Market Initiative At the same time, buildings account for the
(LMI) for Europe. Steps that can be taken to achieve this include improving legisla- highest proportion of EU energy consump-
tion, encouraging public procurement and developing standards that are compatible tion (roughly 42 %) and buildings also pro-
with each other in those business areas where there is the greatest potential. duce roughly 35 % of all greenhouse gas
“Europe must develop innovation-friendly markets in a more targeted way by creating emissions. Sustainable building thus re-
the right conditions to facilitate the marketing of innovative products and services”, presents an important area of the market.
said Günter Verheugen, vice-president of the Commission with responsibility for This includes aspects relating to environ-
enterprise and industry, when outlining the goals of this European support package mental protection, e.g. the efficiency of
for innovative companies. electrical equipment and heating systems,
“The Lead Market Initiative has identified promising new markets, on which the as well as the comfort of the users and the
European Union has the potential to lead the world and where coordinated action is health aspects, whereby an important con-
urgently needed.” sideration is the air quality inside buildings.
Details of the lead markets and answers to the question of what contribution the tex- Sustainable solutions are needed to target
tile industry, and particularly the warp knitting sector, can make to the development of both domestic and commercial buildings
the products most likely to generate sales in the future will now be presented, toget- and the infrastructure, and the textile indu-
her with examples of products and applications. Some of these products are still at stry is already offering a number of promi-
the “ideas stage”, whilst others are already in production. sing solutions. One example is textile-rein-
forced concrete components. The use of
Electronic health multiaxial or 3D textiles as reinforcement
Within the framework of citizen-oriented healthcare systems, eHealth can contribute materials can reduce the consumption of
to improving patient care whilst using fewer resources. If the measures are not imple- materials by 80 % compared to conventio-
mented, healthcare costs will rise as a result of an increasingly ageing population in nal steel reinforcement.
Europe. It is expected that the current level of 9 % will probably rise to 16 % of GDP Warp-knitted spacer textiles also offer
by 2020. completely new opportunities in the interior
The textile industry, too, is carrying out research and development work in the elec- design sector. Spacer textiles also provide
tronics sector with the aim of reducing the spiralling costs of healthcare. For exam- good thermal and acoustic insulation when
ple, work is being carried out into integrating biomedical sensors into patients’ clo- made up into thin, lightweight walls. The
thing to monitor vital functions, and these are likely to be used in clinical practice, e.g. compact design of these textile systems
for producing electronic patient charts, electronic management of medication, or for also enables them to make optimum use of
incorporating sensors into hospital mattresses made from spacer textiles. If the limited space when used as room-dividers
patient is at risk for any reason, a signal is emitted at a control centre to summon or wall-cladding.
help. Electronics/textile composites can also be used to safeguard public health, e.g. They also enable the available space to be
for crisis management if there is an epidemic. used more effectively than conventional
Despite considerable investment by the FuE in the field of eHealth, technical and walling systems for the same living area,
organisational solutions have been introduced only very slowly. The reason for this and can easily be used to conceal cables
reluctance to innovate is mainly due to the pronounced segmentation of the market and pipes. As well as being used vertically,

Photo by Jean-Luc Valentin for Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH

Kettenwirk-Praxis 1/2008 17
 TECHNICAL TEXTILES

3D warp-knitted textiles can also be used

in horizontal systems for e.g. ceilings with
integrated cooling systems or for air-condi-
tioning systems.
There are many solutions that meet the
demand for sustainable building but many
fail because of problems associated with
building regulations. There is very little
coordination and standardisation between
specifications and official regulations at
both a European and a national level in the
building industry. This creates considera-
ble administrative costs for companies
operating at a mainly local level and results
in a pronounced fragmentation of the mar-
ket. To promote business activity in the
sector of sustainable building, the develop-
ment of innovative solutions within the fra-
mework of public procurement and regula-
tion and control should therefore be encou-
raged.

Protective textiles
Protective textiles are primarily clothing
systems and other textile-based systems
for protecting the wearer against hazards
and risks in the workplace. The current
volume of the EU market for personal pro-
tective clothing and equipment has been
put at 9.5 to 10 billion euros. Roughly
200,000 jobs depend directly or indirectly
on these types of products and services.
The predicted rapid growth likely to occur
in certain areas of the world would suggest
that EU exports of personal protective clo-
thing and equipment have the potential to
grow by about 50 % over the next few
years. Additional factors which could incre-
ase demand include more rapid develop-
ment and the introduction of European
standards worldwide, whilst at the same
time taking the appropriate steps to protect
intellectual property.
Acquisitions within the framework of public
procurement do play an important role in
the protective textiles’ sector but, at a local
administrative level, there is a marked
fragmentation of demand.
Warp-knitted textiles, and especially 3D
fabrics, play an important role in the pro-
duction of protective workwear. They can
be used on their own or in composites with
other textiles and/or membranes to protect
against UV radiation as well as cold, hot
and wet conditions; they are also extreme-
ly comfortable. This improves their effecti-
veness and also makes them more attrac-
tive to consumers. These functional 3D
warp-knitted textiles have already been

18 Kettenwirk-Praxis 1/2008
 TECHNICAL TEXTILES

used very successfully in the lining of firefighters’ suits, for example, and as a breat- power, bio-masses, biodegradable waste
hable ventilation layer in bullet-proof vests. High-visibility jackets made from brightly or raw materials, geothermal energy and
coloured, lightweight warp-knitted textiles that can be seen from some distance away wave, tidal and wind power. The business
have also proved to be extremely useful in motor vehicles and are now virtually obli- in renewable energy currently accounts for
gatory. The capacity of the spacer textiles when used as padding to absorb and dis- 20 billion euros in the EU, employs rough-
sipate energy is also in high demand. When integrated into the leg regions of work ly 300,000 people and meets roughly 8.5 %
trousers, they protect the kneecaps of the wearer when kneeling and also prevent of European energy requirements. Accor-
heat from building up. ding to binding declaration made by the
Council of Europe, this should rise to 20 %
Innovative use of bio-based products by the year 2020.
This sector of the market selected for inclusion in the Lead Market Initiative covers This target opens up enormous develop-
products and materials made from renewable, biological raw materials, such as ment opportunities for manufacturers and
plants and trees, and come from the non-food sector. Examples of these products also enables costs to be reduced.
include bio-plastics, bio-lubricants, surfactants, enzymes and pharmaceutical pro- However, a number of difficult obstacles
ducts. Not included are conventional paper and wood products and bio-masses used have to be overcome first regarding the
for energy production. increased used of renewable resources.
The long-term growth potential of bio-based products will depend on the extent to Firstly, the external costs of energy con-
which they can replace products made from fossil materials, and also meet the requi- sumption do not correlate completely with
rements of the end consumer at prices that are competitive. energy prices.
These ‘green’ products must also have greenhouse-gas-neutral life cycles, which are The result is that renewable energies are
associated with lower levels of waste production and lower energy and water con- usually associated with low external costs,
sumption than similar, conventional products. but demand is not as great as could be
Many ideas for bio-based products have come from the textile industry and some expected. Secondly, manufacturers are
have already been put into practice. One example is the use of polylactide (PLA) in faced with steep learning curves, which
textile applications. This crystalline, thermoplastic polymer is produced from lactic should reduce costs with many technolo-
acid, has superior biodegradability, and can be produced using from 30 to 40 % less gies but the effect is not felt so rapidly here
fossil raw materials than polymers made from petroleum. because demand is currently relatively low.
Another application of bio-based products in the textile industry is the BIOBALAN- Thirdly, the many different systems for pro-
CE™ polymer line using products based on soya oil. This is the result of cooperation moting renewable energies, and the many
between Dow Chemical and the carpet manufacturer, Universal Textile, and is inten- administrative and market barriers, stand
ded to replace polyurethane. Europe has a firm foothold on the markets for innovati- in the way of full exploitation of the possi-
ve, bio-based products as a result of its leading position in a variety of technical and ble potential, which is closely linked to the
industrial fields. domestic market.
However, the products have been slow to win acceptance, largely due to a certain Nevertheless, the textile industry has
amount of uncertainty regarding the product characteristics and poor market trans- developed numerous innovations, which
parency. Environmental legislation, standardisation, labelling and incentives to set up have given a great technical impetus to the
demonstration plants could provide the stimuli to overcome these problems. use of renewable energies. These include
the use of carbon-fibre fabrics in the bla-
Recycling des of wind turbines and the use of warp-
Recycling contributes to reducing the amount of waste produced, decreasing the con- knitted spacer textiles in solar energy
sumption of natural resources and improving energy efficiency. The recycling sector systems.
has a turnover of 24 billion euros and employs roughly 500,000 people in more than Guarded and largely predicted estimates
60,000 companies. suggest that the total volume of all six mar-
Roughly 30 % of all environmental industries worldwide and 50 % of all waste kets will double by the year 2020 if the
management and recycling companies are based in the EU. The recycling industry relevant steps to promote these sectors
can help to reduce Europe’s dependency on raw material prices, as long as the mar- are taken, and predict that roughly a million
ket potential is fully exploited. However, a number of obstacles have to be overcome, new jobs will be created. This is the perfect
innovation has to be encouraged, and more rational processes and technologies reason to follow the example set by inno-
have to be introduced if this is to be achieved. The textile industry is ideally placed to vative, pioneering companies.
show how this can be done. For example, if the conventional foam materials are
replaced by nonwoven fabrics or 3D warp-knitted textiles made from polyester when Source: EU Commission, Lead Market
building cars, components made from all the same materials can be produced and Initiative for Europe, report submitted to
these can be recycled easily. the Council, the European Parliament, the
European Economic and Social Commi-
Renewable energy ttee, and the Committee of the Regions,
Renewable energy is generated from renewable sources, such as sun and wind Brussels, 21.12.2007.

Photo by Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH

Kettenwirk-Praxis 1/2008 19
 TECHNICAL TEXTILES

3D THERMAL FABRICS PREVENT THE BODY FROM

EXCESSIVE COOLING DURING SURGICAL OPERATIONS
TEXTILE HEATING SYSTEMS BASED ON WARP-KNITTED SPACER TEXTILES
FOR KEEPING PATIENTS WARM

Dr. U. Möhring and D. Schwabe, tions associated with this have been
Textilforschungsinstitut (Textile Research Institute) Thüringen-Vogtland e.V. Greiz discussed in numerous medical articles.
Examples include unpleasant shivering
A surgical operation not only involves intervention within the body of an anaestheti- and increased sensitivity of the blood
sed patient, it also affects the body’s energy management system. While the surge- clotting mechanism. To prevent this, the
on is at work with his knife and scalpel, the body produces considerably less heat and core body temperature should be kept
soon becomes cold. Evaporative heat loss and rinsing solutions can also cause the within the range of 35.5 to 37°C during
body to become cold quickly. If the core body temperature falls below 35°C, the body the operation, and this applies to children
becomes too cold. This condition is known as hypothermia, and the many complica- and elderly patients especially. Small
children are still not able to generate heat
from muscle vibration, and their bodies
also have a large surface area compared
to weight. With elderly patients, their redu-
ced metabolic rates and age-related con-
ditions, together with the effects that
these factors have on the capacity to re-
gulate body temperature, are the reasons
for the increased risk of hypothermia.
New concepts are needed to prevent
excessive cooling of patients on the ope-
rating table. One of these involves active-
ly supplying heat during surgical proce-
dures.

The aims
The Textile Research Institute Thüringia-
Vogtland (TITV) Greiz has been looking
at the subject of “textile systems for kee-
ping patients warm” within the framework
of research project no. AiF 14542 BR,
and has been looking at various ways of
using warp-knitted spacer textiles to sup-
ply electrical energy, which acts as an
active source of heat. To do this, textile
thermal conductors were either integra-
ted into or combined with the spacer tex-
tiles. In principle, they can be integrated
into the textile using three different tech-
niques:
• Laminating of conductive textile sub-
strates
• Embroidering using conductive yarns
• Incorporating conductive yarns into the
pile area of the 3D warp-knitted textiles.
Placing the conductive elements directly
inside the pile zone proved to be the most

Picture by www.pixelio.de

Kettenwirk-Praxis 1/2008 23
 TECHNICAL TEXTILES

THE TOPOGRAPHY OF WELLBEING – EMBROIDERED ONTO

3D WARP-KNITTED TEXTILES
EMBROIDERED INSOLES MADE FROM 3D WARP-KNITTED TEXTILES MASSAGE THE FEET

S. Hanus, C. Rotsch, M. Roth, N. Grawitter und Dr. U. Möhring,

Textilforschungsinstitut (Textile Research Institute) Thüringen-Vogtland e.V. (TITV) Greiz

In the course of a single lifetime, every person takes enough steps to circumnaviga-
te the globe four times – on foot. This is why the feet are one of the most important
parts of the body, but they are frequently the most neglected. People often have to
walk for long distances over hard, flat surfaces, which does not challenge their feet
enough and even damages them in the long term, since the muscles and fine motor
functions can become atrophied through lack of use. The solution to this problem lies
with improving the walking environment, in which case, the design and interior of the
shoe play an important role. The soles in particular can be designed specifically to carry
out a number of specialist functions – to care for the feet and keep them healthy.
As well as walking around in bare feet and doing the appropriate foot exercises, a sui-
table way of revitalising and stimulating tired, aching feet is by stimulating the reflex
zones in the foot, and this can be done by the sole, for example. Until now, soles for
stimulating and massaging the reflex zones have largely been made from leather or
plastic materials, but these conventional products are not breathable enough. One
alternative is to produce embroidered textile insoles based on functional, warp-knit-
ted 3D constructions.The figure shows an example of these.
The warp-knitted spacer textiles are 3.5 mm thick and can be produced on an RD 6
N or an RD 7 N double-bar raschel machine in a gauge of E 22. These efficient ma-
chines can process a blend of 77 % PES, 16.5 % PES Cordura and 6.5 % PES
BioActive to produce fine, soft textiles, which can be embroidered on a multi-headed
embroidery machine to produce a unique surface appearance.

Characteristics of the insole

The spacer textile has climate-controlling properties and is comfortable to wear. It can
be washed if necessary and can be embroidered very easily.
The high/low relief effects, which stimulate different areas of the feet, are produced
by specific, structured, embroidered effects, so that the geometry, hardness, height,
position and area of the embroidered relief pattern can all be varied individually.

Tests
The effects of the breathable wellness sole on wear comfort and the perception of the
foot being massaged or stimulated were tested extensively in collaboration with the
Arbeitsmedizinisches Präventionszentrum Erfurt (Occupational Medicine Prevention
Centre). A variety of soles having different embroidered surfaces were used in the
tests.
The types identified as being the most comfortable during the wear trial feature an
arrangement of raised knops, ellipses and circles in all the right places. Pressure
distribution measurements were also carried out at the TITV Greiz using the Novel
pedar® pressure measuring system to supplement the wear trials. The relevant mea-
surement soles can be used to measure the pressure exerted on the foot by the
embroidered insoles. Measurements were also carried out on test subjects.

Results
The results of all the tests showed that the 3D structures gave better pressure distri-
bution results than when the measurements were carried out without the insoles.
The results of the tests showed that the massaging effect produced by the embroi-
dered surfaces create pressure points, which stimulate the foot. A partial pressure
increase of up to 20 % can be achieved, for an almost uniform mean pressure value
over the area as a whole. A wide range of different, embroidered insoles featuring a
wellness effect can be developed to suit a variety of consumer preferences.

Acknowledgement
We would like to thank the Bundesministerium für Wirtschaft und Technologie
(Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Technology) for its financial support of
research project no. IW 050039, which was made available in the form of a federal
government grant.
Fig.: Embroidered lines on a sole made
from 3D warp-knitted textiles
Kettenwirk-Praxis 1/2008 25
 SPOTLIGHTS

PROCAD WARPKNIT BRINGS UNITY TO DIVERSITY AND

PUTS IDEAS INTO PRACTICE
V. FRAAS AG & CO. KG IMPLEMENTS THE PROCAD WARPKNIT SYSTEM

V. Fraas AG & Co. KG brings a touch of co-

lour to the grey hues of winter and provi-
des warmth on cold, snowy days.
Together with its scarves, this internatio-
nally-renowned, family-run company pro-
duces and sells textile accessories and is
extremely successful at what it does.
The company was founded in 1880 and
has been set on a course for success ever
since. This fully integrated weaving and
knitting company has since expanded its
production capacity, set up a worldwide
service and sales network in 25 locations,
has added silk scarves and shawls to its
repertoire of products, set up its own flag-
ship stores, and has recently introduced its
own label aimed at the premium segment
of the market.
V. Fraas currently produces 8-10 million
scarves and textile accessories per annum
in four production locations. The company
supplies some of the major stores, mainly
in America, as well as international desi-
gner labels, such as Boss, which buys
most of the warp-knitted scarves produced
by this Frankenland-based textile specia-
list. Accessories have become extremely
important, especially for the designer
labels, since they appeal to even the less
image-conscious consumer on the look-
out for high-quality goods.
What is more: “Accessories sell themsel-
ves; they do not have to be tried on, nor do
consumers have to worry about the style or
fit”, said Dr. Robert Schmidt, a member of
the family and the head of the company
since 1980, when speaking about the suc-
cess of his firm’s products.
The company’s products have to hold their
own on a quite specific market. “The mar-
ket segments are becoming smaller all the
time”, said Dr. Robert Schmidt when
explaining this phenomenon. “Everyone
wants products that are specific to them,
so that batch sizes are becoming smaller
and smaller, and the collection cycles are
becoming increasingly shorter.” The desi-
gners in Wüstenselbitz, New York, Paris,
Düsseldorf and Shanghai develop bet-
ween 500 and 700 new articles every year
to cater for the growing demand for indivi-
duality. It therefore became increasingly
necessary to systematically manage and
continuously expand this large number of
products. V. Fraas AG & Co. KG uses the
ProCad WarpKnit system from ALC Com-
putertechnik GmbH to do this.

Figure by company V. Fraas

Kettenwirk-Praxis 1/2008 39
 SPOTLIGHTS
ProCad WarpKnit smoothes the
path – from the initial idea to the
finished scarf
ProCad WarpKnit is a tool for developing
and managing every type of warp-knitted
pattern. The information relating to the de-
signs and articles is stored in a central
database. Detailed data on the machine,
the yarns, yarn feed values, finishing de-
tails, the tools for calculating the weight per
unit area, and the price lists for each article
are stored here. Data relating to the pat-
tern, such as information on the lapping
and drawing-in arrangement, is stored in a
separate data set and can therefore be
used for several articles. A list of the pat-
terns, articles, machines and yarns, as well
as additional company-specific information,
is displayed on the monitor as soon as the
ProCad WarpKnit system is started up.
If a specific article has to be worked, all the
information that is relevant to its production
is loaded into the machine on-line by a PC
or from a floppy disk. This logical system
for handling data is perfect for V. Fraas,
with its large repertoire of products.
In the middle of 2006, this specialist in pro-
ducing warm scarves and shawls decided
to integrate the basic module of the
ProCad WarpKnit system for drafting lap-
pings and managing data into its KARL
MAYER warp knitting machines. The pro-
duct developers in particular were quick to
recognise the potential of this database
solution and, working in conjunction with
the machine builder and ALC, extended
the existing modules to create a CAD
system for developing patterns that was
specific to Fraas. The special advantages
of this system include: the final fabric can
be simulated by clicking on the mouse, the
system can be integrated into the compa-
ny’s own yarn database, and the manufac-
turer’s own specific production strategy
can also be taken into account. The com-
pany also processes warp beams in the
knitting department.
If a new pattern has to be developed, the
lapping data (chain links), the data for the
yarn drawing-in arrangement, and alloca-
tion of the warp beams to the guide bars
are input in the first stage. The ProCad
WarpKnit system automatically generates
the lapping arrangement, or vice versa,
from this information.
It is possible to simulate the effects that
can be achieved during the subsequent
processing stage by changing the individu-
al values.
40
Once the pattern is ready, the product developer quits the program by clicking on the
mouse and attaches a label. This allocates a name and number for the purpose of
identification, stipulates which machine is to be used to produce it, and specifies
which materials are to be used. The ProCad WarpKnit system produces the first cal-
culation on the basis of the data relating to stitches/cm for fabric take-down and the
mm/rack for the individual guide bars. This produces a list of the dimensions, weights
and yarn consumption values. Subsequent comparison of these theoretical values
with the actual measured data on the finished textile provides information relating to
the quality of the fabric. Stipulating the warping sequence is an important step when
producing an article. It is a creative process, which influences the types of yarns
selected and brings the knitted fabrics to life - and the fabrics are as diverse as the
consumers who buy them. Each fabric may be made in from 40 to 50 different yarns
and in up to 50 colours, and this makes a wide range of design possibilities available
to V. Fraas, which can only be managed using a well-organised, in-house database
for the colour and yarn cards. This network-compatible solution transfers data direct-
ly to the ProCad WarpKnit fabric simulation facility and enables the various optical
effects that can be achieved by changing the yarns to be studied. The fabric simula-
tion facility displays the stitch-head arrangement and enables the front and reverse
sides to be viewed. If the optimum design has been created, it should be possible to
export the data into an electronic image catalogue as of 2009 at the latest. When
combined with information from the warehouse regarding the availability of the mate-
rials, this is the perfect sales and marketing tool. The important step of integrating the
ProCad WarpKnit system into the company’s own production control software has
already been taken. Data from the database flows through virtually every processing
stage - from booking-in the order, through allocation of the materials, to batching-up
of the finished fabric. In order to make this integrated system even more effective,
Roy Thyroff, the head of development and production in the Raschel Knitting section,
is currently working with ALC on the feasibility of exporting the warping sequence
data directly to the warping machines.
ProCad WarpKnit is the perfect tool for skilled specialists to use in their day-to-day
work. “This central data management system saves us a great deal of time. Even our
factory in China can access our pattern pool in just a few seconds”, explained Roy
Thyroff. “This gives us greater flexibility when processing our patterns and developing
new designs, and enables us to cater even more effectively for our customers’ spe-
cial requirements. And last but not least, it creates a more dynamic market for warp-
knitted textiles.”
From left to right in the photograph: Andreas Kiesel, KARL MAYER, Christopher
Blasius and Christoph Wieners, ALC, and Roy Thyroff, V. Fraas
Kettenwirk-Praxis 1/2008

FIRM SOLIDARITY SHOWN BY THE INTERNATIONAL
FEDERATION OF KNITTING TECHNOLOGISTS
MEETINGS AND CONFERENCES OF THE IFKT
AND SWITZERLAND, 31.03.2008
Source of illustration: Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH/Petra Welzel
Kettenwirk-Praxis 1/2008
TIMER
SECTIONS GERMANY, 26-27.05.2008
The International Federation of Knitting
Technologists (IFKT) is traditionally parti-
cularly active in Spring. In the months bet-
ween March and May both the German
and the Swiss sections will invite/have invi-
ted their members to an exchange of opi-
nions, to discuss the transfer of know-how,
and to review details of the work of the
Federation.
The German section get-together
The German knitting specialists in the
IFKT will come together on 26-27 May
2008 in Annaberg, Saxony for a joint mem-
bership meeting and conference. The the-
mes of the 2008 conference will be trim-
mings and knitted industrial fabrics. The
section covering warp- and weft-knitted
fabrics for technical applications will inclu-
de a report by Reinhardt Helbig and Dr
Monika Seeger from the Saxon Technical
Research Institute at Chemnitz, who
discuss new technical textiles, and also a
report by Dr Katerina Machova, who is
responsible for product development at
Peerless GmbH, on innovative warp-knit-
ted spacer fabrics.
Two company visits are planned as the
supporting programme. On 26 May the
Obererzgebirgische Posamenten- und
Effektenwerke in Annaberg-Buchholz are
inviting the IFKT members to a get-toget-
her, and on 27 May they are going to
Mildenau to visit Norafin Industries
(Deutschland).
Between the items on the agenda, and
particularly during the joint evening meal,
there will be ample opportunity to develop
ideas, to think them out further, and to
exchange ideas.
Meeting and Spring conference of
the IFKT Swiss section
The Swiss section met on 31 March and
selected Amriswil/Thurgau, a small village
on Lake Constance, for their meeting.
The meeting in the morning was followed
by reports from the industry on the deve-
lopment of narrow fabrics and on company
and trademark policy.
The Swiss knitting specialists' meeting
also included the obligatory company visit.
This took the IFKT members to ISA
Salmann AG and homewear in Amriswil.
All in all an eventful start to the new knitting
year.
45