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Received: 22 October 2018    Revised: 13 April 2019    Accepted: 23 July 2019

DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13096

C O S M E T I C C O M M E N TA RY

Oral collagen supplementation for skin aging: A fad or the


future?

Nikita Jhawar BS1 | Jordan V. Wang MD, MBE, MBA2  | Nazanin Saedi MD2

1
Drexel University College of Medicine,
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Abstract
2
Department of Dermatology and In recent years, oral collagen supplements have become a popular and trendy treat‐
Cutaneous Biology, Thomas Jefferson
ment in the world of skin health. It has been widely marketed to consumers for pur‐
University, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
ported benefits in wrinkle reduction, skin‐rejuvenation, skin‐aging reversal, and skin
Correspondence
plumping. However, there are currently limited data available in the literature and
Jordan V. Wang, Department of
Dermatology and Cutaneous Biology, much regarding its possible effects on the skin has yet to be fully elucidated and
Thomas Jefferson University, 833 Chestnut
understood. Here, we summarize some of the prominent studies in the literature and
Street, Suite 740, Philadelphia, PA 19107.
Email: jordan.wang@jefferson.edu offer an evaluation of oral collagen supplementation for skin health.

KEYWORDS
aesthetics, aging, collagen, collagen supplements, dermatology

1 |  I NTRO D U C TI O N stronger collagen fibrils, and increase water content of the stratum
corneum. 2
Aging of the skin is a degenerative process driven by a decline in In recent years, oral collagen supplementation has become ex‐
physiological function. While it is partially intrinsic, extrinsic factors, tremely popular as it has been increasingly marketed to consumers
such as pollution, sun exposure, and lifestyle can increase oxidation as an anti‐aging remedy. Purported benefits include wrinkle re‐
levels and contribute to chronic inflammation, which can acceler‐ duction, skin‐rejuvenation, skin‐aging reversal, and skin plumping.
ate aging processes.1 Lifestyle factors can include nutritional and However, the data behind these claims are not particularly robust,
smoking statuses. The progression of skin aging is associated with which continues to perpetuate the controversial nature of this treat‐
decreased collagen density and dermal thickness in addition to a re‐ ment. Here, we summarize some of the prominent studies in the
duction in the synthesis and replacement of vital structural proteins. literature in order to familiarize clinicians with oral collagen supple‐
This causes the dermis to lose its integrity and pliability, which man‐ mentation for skin health, so that they can more effectively discuss
ifests itself clinically as lax and wrinkled skin. this therapy with patients.
An effort to combat the visible signs of skin aging has been a
driving force in the rise of the nutraceutical market. Supporters
have claimed that oral collagen supplements can help to reduce the 2 | R E V I E W
aging appearance of skin. In many of these supplements, the bio‐
active ingredients are collagen peptides, which are peptides rich in Asserin et al administered collagen peptides to patients and observed
the amino acids proline, glycine, and hydroxyproline. Upon diges‐ skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). 2 In the first
tion, these peptides are cleaved into di‐ and tri‐peptides, which are part of their study, they recruited 66 Japanese women, who were
claimed to be used by the body as building blocks for proteins, such 40‐59 years old, and treated half with either 10 g of daily collagen
as collagen. treatment for 56 consecutive days or placebo. Their results showed
It has been theorized that the availability of these protein pep‐ a statistically significant increase in skin moisture for the treatment
tides can help to maintain and increase the collagen in the skin. It group. However, this was without an effect on TEWL. In the sec‐
is also believed that the peptides may increase hyaluronic acid pro‐ ond part of their study, they recruited 106 French women, who
duction in skin fibroblasts, induce migration of fibroblasts, promote were 40‐65 years old, and treated half with either 10 g of collagen

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;00:1–3. © 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. |  1


wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jocd  
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2       JHAWAR et al.

treatment for 84 consecutive days or placebo. After 12 weeks of Wang et al found that administering collagen hydrolysates to 9‐
treatment, measurements of echogenicity using high frequency ul‐ month‐old mice for 6 months led to significantly increased collagen
trasound demonstrated significantly greater collagen density in the content in addition to improvements in the density and distribution
treatment group. of collagen fibers and the ratio of type I to type III collagen in a dose‐
Kim et al conducted a double‐blind, randomized, placebo‐con‐ dependent manner.7 Additionally, Le Vu et al administered collagen
trolled trial to study the effects of low‐molecular‐weight collagen peptides to mice for 6 weeks. Treatment was associated with an in‐
peptide (LMWCP) on skin hydration, wrinkling, and elasticity.3 They creased expression and upregulation of genes in the skin associated
enrolled 64 Korean women, who were 40‐60 years old, and treated with the development of the epidermis and the hair cycle.8 Another
them with either 1000 mg of LMWCP or placebo daily for 12 weeks. study fed mice a collagen hydrolysate‐containing diet for 12 weeks,
After 6 and 12 weeks, there were significant increases in skin hydra‐ which was associated with improvements in stratum corneum water
tion in the LMWCP group compared to placebo. Three parameters content and skin elasticity compared to control mice.9 DNA micro­
of skin wrinkling (average roughness, skin roughness, smoothness array analysis suggested that gene changes preceded effects in
depth) were significantly higher in the treatment group. However, skin barrier function and mechanical properties. Similarly, Shimizu
only one out of three parameters for skin elasticity (overall elasticity, et al10 fed mice a diet rich in prolyl‐hydroxyproline and hydroxypro‐
net elasticity, ratio of elastic recovery to total deformation) was sig‐ lyl‐glycine for 5 weeks. The collagen hydrolysates were associated
nificantly higher in the treatment group. with decreased TEWL and increased water content of the stratum
In a study by Proksch et al, 69 women, who were 35‐55 years corneum. Animal studies can be helpful for further elucidating the
old, were randomly placed into one of four groups: 2.5 g of collagen mechanisms behind collagen supplementation.
hydrolysate (CH), 5.0 g of CH, 2.5 g of placebo, and 5.0 g of placebo.4
Supplements were taken daily for 8 weeks. At the end of the study,
both CH groups had a statistically significant increase in skin elas‐ 3 | D I S CU S S I O N
ticity compared to the placebo groups. After 4 weeks of follow‐up
treatment, a statistically significant increase in skin elasticity was These few limited studies suggest that there may be some benefits
seen in elderly women. This study also observed positive correla‐ for the skin associated with oral collagen supplementation. However,
tions between CH treatment and both skin moisture and skin evapo‐ there are many factors that should first be considered. For one, the
ration. However, these were not statistically significant. collagen supplements used in these studies are not comparable,
Genovese et al performed a double‐blind, randomized, placebo‐ which can lead to inconsistencies when aggregating the data. Many
controlled trial investigating the efficacy of an oral liquid supple‐ of the studies are also limited by only involving patients of particular
ment containing collagen peptides and antioxidants as an anti‐aging geographic regions, sex, and age groups. This does not control for
5
product. In this study, 120 subjects were randomly assigned to con‐ the roles that they may play in skin appearance. While there were
sume either 50 mL of the supplement or placebo daily for 90 days. many different types of objective measurements, it is unclear how
They found no significant difference in skin elasticity between the each translates into clinical appearance or why each was affected
treatment and placebo groups. However, subjects that had under‐ by collagen supplements. There is also no reliable evidence to sug‐
gone cosmetic procedures during the study period had significantly gest that orally digested collagen becomes preferentially localized
increased skin elasticity if they were part of the treatment group. to the dermis as opposed to other parts of the body.11 It has been
Post‐treatment self‐assessment questionnaires completed by sub‐ argued that the amino acids required for collagen synthesis can be
jects showed higher ratings of various perceived skin parameters in consumed from a normal protein diet, which negates the need for
the treatment group. additional collagen supplementation.11 There are additionally many
Inoue et al conducted a randomized, double‐blind, placebo‐con‐ other vital proteins, other than collagen, that contribute to the ap‐
trolled trial to compare the clinical effects of CH composed of the pearance and properties of skin. While some proponents may rely
bioactive dipeptides, prolyl‐hydroxyproline and hydroxyprolyl‐gly‐ on the body of evidence from animal studies,12-14 these findings can‐
cine.6 They enrolled 85 Chinese women, who were 35‐55 years old, not necessarily be extrapolated to humans due to differences in di‐
and placed them into one of three groups: higher content of the gestion, enzyme activity, and metabolism.11
collagen peptides, lower content of the collagen peptides, and pla‐
cebo. They underwent daily administration for 8 weeks. The results
showed significantly greater skin moisture of the cheek and can‐ 4 | CO N C LU S I O N
thus in both treatment groups compared to placebo. Additionally,
the higher content group showed significant and more improvement On balance, additional clinical studies are needed in order to more
than both the lower content group and placebo in measurements of completely understand the cutaneous effects of oral collagen sup‐
skin moisture, elasticity, and wrinkles and roughness. plementation. As this trend continues to gain in popularity, especially
In addition to human studies, there are also those utilizing animal with its widespread availability for consumers, there is a need for
models. Observations based upon clinical and histological appear‐ more rigorous research to validate its effects. Until then, clinicians
ance as well as gene expression are key elements of these studies. should be aware of the current evidence in the literature in order to
JHAWAR et al. |
      3

inform patients accordingly. Although proponents for oral collagen 6. Inoue N, Sugihara F, Wang X. Ingestion of bioactive collagen hy‐
supplements have been able to market many purported benefits, drolysates enhance facial skin moisture and elasticity and reduce
facial ageing signs in a randomised double‐blind placebo‐controlled
physicians are not afforded the same opportunity to endorse such
clinical study. J Sci Food Agric. 2016;96(12):4077‐4081.
claims without strong and convincing evidence. 7. Wang Z, Wang Q, Wang L, et al. Improvement of skin condition by
oral administration of collagen hydrolysates in chronologically aged
mice. J Sci Food Agric. 2017;97(9):2721‐2726.
C O N FL I C T O F I N T E R E S T 8. Le Vu P, Takatori R, Iwamoto T, et al. Effects of food‐derived col‐
lagen peptides on the expression of keratin and keratin‐asso‐
The authors have no conflict of interest to declare. ciated protein genes in the mouse skin. Skin Pharmacol Physiol.
2015;28(5):227‐235.
9. Oba C, Ito K, Ichikawa S, et al. Effect of orally administered collagen
ORCID hydrolysate on gene expression profiles in mouse skin: a DNA mi‐
croarray analysis. Physiol Genomics. 2015;47(8):355‐363.
Jordan V. Wang  https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7437-2745 10. Shimizu J, Asami N, Kataoka A, et al. Oral collagen‐derived dipep‐
tides, prolyl‐hydroxyproline and hydroxyprolyl‐glycine, ameliorate
skin barrier dysfunction and alter gene expression profiles in the
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How to cite this article: Jhawar N, Wang JV, Saedi N. Oral
effects on human skin physiology: A double‐blind, placebo‐con‐
trolled study. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(1):47‐55. collagen supplementation for skin aging: A fad or the future?
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