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Editor’s Letter 158
Bachelor Pad
35 Modernity and tradition
Foreword collide to make a defining
With a pair of white rubber soles in every architectural statement
man’s wardrobe, trainers are the runaway in Kuwait City.
trend that refuses to slow down.
BY DYLAN JONES
70
160 The Lab 158

39 Details
Blade Runner 2049’s Ana de Armas; how 122
From the iPhone to the Samsung Galaxy,
GQ tests the best smartphones on the market.

Twin Peaks changed the world; Airbnb GQ Preview

Products and events. 160
billionaire Brian Chesky reveals the
secrets of his success.
157
My Style
How menswear buyer
Dean Cook sports
his luxe look.

166
39 Michael Wolff
Tech giants beware: selling adverts against extremist and
criminal content is provoking the wrath of the old order.

70
Cars
Land Rover makes a breakthrough
Discovery; the character-driven 157
173
The Drop
173

stars of the Geneva Motor Show; GQ’s guide to the

gentlemen start their engines
at the Cartier “Travel With Style”
Hay Festival; a Nick
Concours d’Elégance. Cave retrospective;
Grayson Perry’s
81 Brexit; plus, can TV
Travel
At Saint-Tropez’s Hôtel survive spoilers?
Byblos, GQ discovers

183
the Seventies trip that’s
still on a high.

101 Life
Style Manual The secret sex club of
Louis Vuitton wins over
Hollywood’s elite; robots
the America’s Cup; Canali
cuts it fine; Jim Chapman’s are coming for your jobs;
watch of the moment; Bear Grylls’ tips for
Savile Row meets surviving a kidnapping;
steetwear; GQ thinks 183 plus, master the half-pipe
pink; plus Style Shrink. with this skate kit.

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 11

62
Model, DJ, professional
party boy... we solve the
riddle of Jack Guinness’
multiple personalities.
STORY BY Charlie Burton
PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tomo Brejc

Suit by Hardie Amies, from £450.

hardyamies.com. Shirt by Ermenegildo
Zegna, £340. At Fenwick. fenwick.co.uk.
Tie by Peckham Rye, £62. At Fenwick.
fenwick.co.uk. Shoes by Russell & Bromley,
£245. russellandbromley.co.uk.
Sunglasses by Fendi, £390. fendi.com.
Pocket square by Drake’s, £55. drakes.com.
Folio by Paul Smith, £695. paulsmith.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 13

193
Tony Parsons
Fight the ageing process 244
with a late-life lesson
from a miracle-working
97-year-old body builder.

197 Features & Fashion

Taste 164 Meet The Kooples
Around the world in GQ visits Paris to find three brothers whose
80 plates: GQ’s travel pioneering brand proves androgyny rocks.
food special visits BY NICK CARVELL
five continents before
returning to London for 214 Why aren’t you following...
Nordic-by-way-of-New Victoria’s Secret model Josephine Skriver takes
York all-day dining. us to the beach.

216 Alastair Campbell vs

206
Javier 206
Tony Blair
Twenty years since their first historic election
victory, two pillars of millennial politics reunite
for an astonishing, no-holds-barred interview.

Bardem 224 Funky Formentera

Spain’s model of masculinity is a man of From chilled-back villas to vibrant beach clubs,
peace – unless he’s in front of a camera.
BY Jonathan Heaf
268
Out To Lunch
Ibiza’s little sister is all grown up.
BY KATHLEEN JOHNSTON

God-like actor
Ian McShane at the
232 This man stands for London

85
GQ Food & Drink
Colony Grill Room.
GQ steps into the ring with mayor Sadiq Kahn.
BY HUGO RIFKIND

238 The now wave

Awards 2017 To celebrate its tenth anniversary, Orlebar Brown
The results are in! looks forward to the next big fashion splash.
Find out where to BY ROBERT JOHNSTON

book for Britain’s 244 Red hot and blue

very best chef, Bring Parisian style home with streetwise
restaurant, bar, 85 denim looks straight from the French capital.
hotel and more. PHOTOGRAPHED BY PA HÜE DE FONTENAY

268

129
GQ Watch and Jewellery 2017
216

New movements in horology; how

jewellery became a man’s world; James
Gurney’s latest “Anatomy Of A Watch
129
Collection”; plus, the timepiece trends
for right now and Watch Shrink.
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 15
 Editor
DYLAN JONES
PA TO THE EDITOR Lottie Stanners

DEPUTY EDITOR Bill Prince CREATIVE DIRECTOR Paul Solomons FASHION DIRECTOR Robert Johnston
MANAGING EDITOR Mark Russell FEATURES DIRECTOR Jonathan Heaf

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ACTING STYLE & GROOMING EDITOR Carlotta Constant ACTING FASHION ASSISTANT Jake Pummintr

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR George Chesterton DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Aaron Callow SUB-EDITOR Kevin Long JUNIOR SUB-EDITOR Holly Bruce

GQ.CO.UK EDITOR Conrad Quilty-Harper ASSOCIATE STYLE EDITOR Nick Carvell ASSOCIATE FEATURES EDITOR Matt Jones
ASSOCIATE PICTURE EDITOR Alfie Baldwin ENGAGEMENT MANAGER Becky Lucas STAFF WRITER Eleanor Halls GQ.CO.UK INTERNS Kathleen Johnston, Josh Lee

CONTRIBUTING WOMEN’S EDITOR Katie Grand CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS Luke Day, Elgar Johnson, Luke Leitch, Lou Stoppard

CONTRIBUTING ART EDITOR Adam Clayton

POLITICAL EDITOR Matthew d’Ancona LUXURY EDITOR Nick Foulkes LITERARY EDITOR Olivia Cole
EROTIC AFFAIRS EDITOR Rebecca Newman COMEDY EDITOR James Mullinger FENG SHUI EDITOR Tracey Emin

OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Helen Placito TABLET PRODUCER Lucy Streule

Contributing Editors
Mel Agace, Andrew Anthony, Chris Ayres, Jason Barlow, Stephen Bayley, Tara Bernerd, Heston Blumenthal, Debra Bourne, Michael Bracewell, Jennifer Bradly, Charlie Brooks, Ed Caesar, Alastair Campbell,
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Sudhir Pithwa, Rankin, Mick Rock, Mark Seliger, Søren Solkær, Mario Sorrenti, Mario Testino, Ellen von Unwerth, Mariano Vivanco, Matthias Vriens, Nick Wilson, Richard Young
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 When giants
walked the earth...
f a week is a long time in politics, 20
I  years is an eternity. In May 1997, Tony
Blair’s Labour Party won a landslide
general election victory, the largest in
its history, making him, at the age of 43,
the youngest prime minister since 1812. Flags
were unfurled, glasses were raised, there was
dancing in the street and general merriment
ensued. Street parties were both metaphorical
and literal. Britain experienced something of a
brave new dawn. Tories were soon banished to
the boondocks and the country was enveloped
in a rosy egalitarian glow. New Labour were
in power and Blair was suddenly
in his pomp. (The euphoria seems
overly dramatic when you look back
now, but when you see images of
the Blairs walking into Number Ten,
their arrival was treated almost as
a coronation.)
Blair won again in 2001, but fast-
forward two years and there were
demonstrations up and down the
country due to his decision to back
George W Bush’s invasion of Iraq. In
his first six years in Downing Street
Blair ordered troops into battle five
times (Kosovo in 1999, Sierra Leone
in 2000, Afghanistan in 2001 and
Prime movers Iraq in 1998 and 2003), more than
(from top):
Alastair Campbell any other PM in British history, but
interviews Tony it was his slavish support of Bush
Blair for GQ;
Campbell had that initiated his eventual fall from
known Blair for grace. When he swept into power
eleven years
before joining the
in 1997, he had a remarkable 93 per
then-opposition cent approval rating, but by 2003 he
leader’s team in
1994; Blair’s
was already being talked about as a
landmark Downing “war criminal”.
Street arrival, It is a tag he has found difficult to
2 May 1997
lose. No sooner does it flit away than
it is back again, stirred up by the
binary nature of social media. Political rehab
has been difficult for Blair, and whenever he
Photographs Getty Images; Rex
sticks his head above the parapet here in the
UK, he makes himself a target. In the US, he
is still afforded the flattery that accompanies
all great statesmen, but in his home country,
he remains somewhat tarnished, toxic even. A
few years ago we celebrated Blair at our annual
Men Of The Year Awards, in recognition of his
work in the Middle East, and while there was
certainly no heckling as he went on stage – it’s
easy to forget what a powerful presence he
has, even in a room full of A list actors, media
barons, legendary rock stars and philanthro-
pists – the guests were muted in their applause.
The consensus here after the event was that
we got away with it... but we were probably
at least three years too early.
For the first six years of Blair’s tenure in
Downing Street, the man Blair relied upon
most was Alastair Campbell, who was his press
secretary and then director of communications
and strategy, only resigning in 2003 during the
Hutton Inquiry into the death of David Kelly.
At that time, as I mentioned here a few months
ago, Campbell was nothing if not partisan.
Like all good political gatekeepers, he would
brook no criticism and was immune to discus-
sion. What Campbell was selling was scripture,
and you either took him at his word or you
were banished from the court. At the time, he
was vilified by a press corps that found itself
unable to manoeuvre around Downing Street
or Whitehall without his tacit blessing. If, as a
journalist, you were somehow crazy enough
to go against Campbell’s wishes, or you dared
to contradict him publicly, his wrath would be
enough to convince you never to do it again.
Campbell was a journalist before he started
working for Blair and when he left office turned
once again from gamekeeper to poacher. Since
Campbell arrived at GQ in 2013, I have been
badgering him to interview his old boss for us,
not as a gimmick, but because the relationship
between the two men has become even more
nuanced since Blair left office, a bond that
grows ever more complicated. Campbell was
predictably circumspect about a public tête-
à-tête, wary of the vitriol that will no doubt
come his way now that it has been published,
but in the end it was Blair who persuaded
him to do it. Also, as Campbell says himself,
he felt the winds of history pushing against
them both. “What with the triple-box-set
‘Given the Trump/
Brexit/Corbyn horror
story, Blair needs to
be heard again’
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 27
 Trump/Brexit/Corbyn
horror story of our times – this month on
Trump risking the liberal world
order, Brexit risking economic
catastrophe and the break up
of the UK, Corbyn risking the
demise of the Labour Party TB
led to three victories – the Blair
voice needs to be heard again,
more clearly, more often and
Poll stars: As his press secretary, Campbell was
key to Blair’s first election victory, April 1997 more defined by him, not by
his enemies,” he says. “Even
the haters – [Tony] recognises
‘Within minutes we they are numerous – must
were talking about what surely admit there were huge
achievements amid the crises
Labour needed to win’ and controversies and that his
experience and insights make
him an enduringly relevant Javier Bardem on film
political player.” The world’s best and baddest bad guy Javier Bardem answers
As it is, the timing is perfect, being exactly 20 years since New Labour swept some sensitive, soul-searching questions in our exclusive video,
to power. filmed at Chivas Regal’s Strathisla distillery.

Campbell will be accused of pulling his punches – his critics will no doubt say
he didn’t even put his gloves on, let alone bother climbing into the ring – and
yet their conversation is a fascinating spectacle (you can also view video of the
interview on our website) as well as a testament to how they have both changed
in the last 20 years.
“I have tried to be rigorous in my questioning, but nobody will be surprised to
know I like Tony Blair,” he says. “I liked him from the very first time I met him,
in 1983, when I was a Daily Mirror political reporter and he a bright-eyed, badly
dressed, newly elected Labour MP. Within minutes we were talking about what
Labour needed to do to win and how to build a strategy and policy platform that
could get us in power and keep us in. We have never stopped talking about it.
Live coverage of The Ned
Eleven years later, he asked me to work for him and after several weeks of resist- Go inside the new hotel and members’ club from Soho House
ance to that as well I agreed. It has changed and redefined my life and often I get founder Nick Jones, with live coverage of the launch night and
asked if it was all worth it. It was. And one of the reasons was that though he could a Facebook Live video touring the hotel’s 252 bedrooms and
be self-centred, unbelievably demanding and tricksy, he was (almost) always a eight restaurants.

good guy to work for and we built a tremendous team. Nobody is perfect, perhaps
GQ’s Hay Festival dinner
least of all politicians, who often have to do difficult things to achieve their goals.
The greats from the worlds
But, unlike the haters, I like and respect him more today than I did two decades of contemporary literature,
ago when he first asked me to make the leap from journalism to politics.” art and ideas will be at GQ’s
Tellingly, Campbell recalls the last time he inter- eighth annual Hay dinner in
viewed his old boss, for the BBC’s breakfast show association with Land Rover
and we’ll be bringing it all to
back in 1994, when Blair was running for the you and your iPhone at
Labour leadership. He asked Blair if he thought gq.uk/HayFestival2017
he was tough enough. “I suppose I had to say yes
to that,” says Blair.
He’s a lot tougher now, although you never fail
to see the fear in his eyes; possibly it’s the fear
of what’s been, but almost certainly it’s also the
fear of what’s to come.
Photographs Getty Images; James Mason

On the cover: Javier Bardem wears jacket, £400.

Trousers, £159. Tie, £95. All by Boss. hugoboss.com.
Shirt, by Canali, £150. canali.com

Alastair Campbell vs Tony Blair

We’ve filmed the entirety of Alastair Campbell’s interview with
Tony Blair, so you can see what the former prime minister
Follow us
@britishgq thinks of Trump, Brexit and Theresa May, in his own words.
Dylan Jones, Editor @dylanjonesgq

30 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

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The World’s First

Introducing the world’s first curved chronograph movement.
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AVA I L A B L E AT
 Contributors
PA HÜE DE FONTENAY
Are Parisians the pinnacle of cool? They certainly look it in our “Red
Hot And Blue” fashion feature, which presents a denim-clad coterie of
the French capital’s locals shot by PA Hüe de Fontenay. “Most Parisians,
whoever they are, however they’re dressed, always have something
about them that looks expensive,” says the photographer. “They can
go from day to night in the same outfit.”
Alastair CAMPBELL
GQ has been asking Contributing Editor
Alastair Campbell to interview Tony Blair for
the last two years. Now, as a result of the
current political tumult, he finally agreed
to sit down with his old boss, the former
Labour prime minister. “Given the weak
leadership at home and abroad, we need
his voice more than ever,” says Campbell.
Bill PRINCE
The GQ biannual watch report is here,
edited by Deputy Editor Bill Prince, who
this year noticed a focus on the designer
over the watchmaker. “In our image-led
world, it’s natural to want to know who’s
behind our most coveted objects,” he says.
“No wonder more and more watch brands
are identifying their designers.”
David BAILEY
David Bailey is renowned for
getting the best out of his
subjects by provoking them
with a steady stream of witty
raillery. His treatment of the
mayor of London for this
month’s profile was no
different, and ripostes between
Bailey and Sadiq Khan flew
back and forth throughout the
shoot. Evidently, Bailey’s tactic
worked very well, as you can
see from the photograph in
Hugo Rifkind’s interview with
the capital’s mayor.
Hugo RIFKIND
This month, we sent GQ
contributor and Times
columnist Hugo Rifkind boxing
with the mayor of London.
Rifkind threw a few questions
around the ring and got Khan
talking about everything from
Trump to Corbyn, as well as
his own success story. “Khan’s
tale is an American narrative:
the child of immigrants
who rises to the top of the
establishment. In Britain that
happens rarely,” says Rifkind.
“He really is a trailblazer.”
Anka
RADAKOVICH
Imagine a sex party where
every person invited is either
beautiful or rich. At Snctm,
Hollywood’s new elite sex club
hosted by “Mr Hedonism”,
only the best-looking women
and the wealthiest men get on
the guest list to experience
“erotic enlightenment”. We
asked GQ’s sex columnist
Anka Radakovich to report
from the inside. “The Eyes
Wide Shut masks, the secrecy
and the ‘erotic theatre’,”
Radakovich says, “made it feel
more like a hilarious sex cult
than a soirée.”
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 33
 Everyone carrying a flat
white is wearing flat whites
There has been a quiet coup in men’s footwear, with a rubber-soled army of sneaker-wearers
taking over our streets and offices. News from the front line of fashion: resistance is futile
Trainers from £290. All by Lanvin. lanvin.com

STORY BY Dylan Jones

ometimes you really only notice Hong Kong, Mumbai and Amsterdam like a wearing them, buying entry-level Savile Row

S  things when they’re staring you right

in the face. Or, in this case, when
you’re wearing them on your feet.
OK, so there’s this investment banker
I know, a man who worked for one of the big
banks out of New York in the Nineties, and
who now spends his time bouncing between
pinstriped pinball, chasing money that seems
to move even faster than he does. He’s in his
mid forties and spends his fashion cash on the
sorts of things that are still going to be accepta-
ble long after the bloggers, hipsters and trouser
cognoscenti have moved on. Like most of his
breed, he invests in clothes rather than simply
suits, sturdy Italian shoes and man bags that
will withstand rain, sand and sarcasm. He likes
buying what’s trendy, but doesn’t want to be
caught holding the wrong baby when all the
surrogates have moved on.
So why has he started wearing white-rimmed
sneakers? Indeed, why does everyone these

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 35

 days wear white-rimmed sneakers? Take a
look around you. Take some time during your
lunch break. Spend an hour or so looking at
the feet of the men in your area and I guaran-
tee you’ll be surprised by what you see. In fact,
you need no more pertinent example of how
men’s shopping patterns have changed in the
last few years than the shoes worn by men in
central London, and in particular in Mayfair.
If you cross London’s most illustrious post-
code by foot, focusing not on the plethora of
enticing front doors advertising trendy base-
ment restaurants, annoyingly new art galleries
or fancy designer emporia, but on the feet of
the men moving around you, you’d be forgiven
for thinking that Monopoly’s most expensive
district had somehow moved to Shoreditch.
Crazy, right?
And it’s all because of the white sole. Up
until a few years ago, most men in Mayfair
wore brightly polished brogues or Oxfords.
The men wearing the black variety were either
working or living in the area, while the ones
wearing brown were either up from the
country and visiting their club, or simply
paying a call on their mistress. But
not only has the demographic of
Mayfair changed – the men who
run hedge funds, for instance,
make a point of not wearing
a suit, principally as a way of
saying they don’t have to – but
men’s footwear has changed with
it. If you’re traversing Berkeley Square (on
your way to buy a sandwich or a painting),
you won’t be wearing a pair of polished wing-
tips, you’ll be wearing a pair of Lanvin or
Common Projects trainers, with a big fat white
rubberised rim above the sole; and if you’re
strolling down Mount Street on your way to
Scott’s or George (or even to simply catch a
bus), you’ll be wearing the same, only this time
you might have bought them in Paul Smith, or
Armani perhaps.
Because nowadays the classic designer one-
inch lo-top sneaker is the default shoe of
choice for anyone who used to buy black
leather. Not traditional training shoes (which,
to many eyes, still look far too casual, espe-
cially the bulbous neon Jabba The Hutt variety,
even if they are box-fresh and ridiculously
expensive) and not any unnecessary hybrid
(which always date quickly and which always
look too much like “fashion” shoes for those
not in the industry), but the by-now-generic
luxe designer sneaker, usually with a navy-
blue top (leather, canvas or, increasingly, super
suede) and an inch of white rubber above the
sole. You’ll see them worn under suits, under
jeans, under everything from drainpipe leath-
ers to flat-fronted chinos. Could be Converse,
36 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
could be Polo Ralph Lauren, could be Boss By
Hugo Boss, these days everyone wants to wear
shoes that only a few years ago would have
only ever been worn by overpaid architects or
underachieving art directors.
Go on, walk outside and take a look.
Everyone carrying a flat white is wearing
flat whites.
Around 15 years ago, luxury shoe brands
began to panic (at least the smart ones did),
knowing that everyone under the age of 20
had started to buy training shoes and finding
themselves unable to do anything about it.
So they started producing expensive train-
ing shoes emblazoned with little tiny designer
logos, in the hope that the great unwashed (as
well as those with easy access to top-drawer
eau de cologne) would start to feel so insecure
that they’d ditch their Adidas and their Nike.
But it didn’t work.
We feel somehow
weaponised
– primed with
sartorial creds
S
o a lot of the big Italian brands –
the ones apparently scared to death
of youth, the ones who had pre-
viously tried to put a velvet rope
around the internet – started pro-
ducing hybrid footwear, shoes that looked
like a bastard cross between a brogue and
a sneaker, and not in a good way either. Too
terrified (and seemingly unable) to actually
design a training shoe that might appeal to
men in their teens, twenties or thirties, they
started producing these sporty versions of tra-
ditional shoes that were nothing if not spirited.
But in reality they were the footwear equiva-
lent of the dodgy pantomime horse – an ugly
donkey with the head of an even uglier goat.
Honestly, who on earth wanted to suck the
pavement with these?
So what did everyone do? Well, what eve-
ryone did was put all their money on the
pimped-up plimsoll, the pumped-up Converse-
style sneaker with a dark canvas top (usually)
and an inch of white rubber above the sole.
These shoes seemed to have been based on
classic canvas plimsolls from way back when
God was a boy, gym shoes that eventually
morphed into the kind of shoes produced by
the likes of Adidas, Converse and Superga, and
then Eytys (pronounced “Eighties”, natch), the
shoes with white soles so thick they originally
looked like platforms. And lo and behold, they
worked, and five minutes later everyone was
wearing the damn things, everyone wanted to
put a film of white rubber between them and
the world. Which has made a lot of brands very
rich and made a lot of consumers very happy,
but is now a trend that is so ubiquitous that it
can probably be seen from space.
And why do we wear them? Because we feel
somehow weaponised, that’s why, and they
make us feel we’ve been primed with proper
sartorial creds. We feel like a member of an
army, albeit an infantryman with a couple of
pieces of masking tape wrapped around our
feet. But this isn’t a Snapchat-happy
Carnabetian Army, this is an ortho-
doxy, and in the same way that
regulation training shoes still
have the ability to make grown
men look like children (mar-
keting perception: good; actual
perception: bad; in my eyes, training shoes
have always made their owners look like
Teletubbies rather than masters of sartorial ele-
gance), so the Inch-Footers all look like they’ve
been co-opted by the marketeers themselves.
Marshall McLuhan once famously said that
the medium is the message, and these days
you only have to look at your feet to see that
this is now completely true. And this time the
message is simple: it’s OK to fill the envelope,
but you wouldn’t want to push it.
I’m not sure that it’s acceptable to quote
Oscar Wilde any more (especially if you’re a
journalist), but he did have a habit of being
worryingly apposite when it came to the
ephemeral nature of what we wear. “Fashion,”
he famously said, “is a form of ugliness so
intolerable that we have to alter it every six
months.” But as far as one-inch sports-luxe
trainers go, we’ll obviously be wearing them
until we realise we’re not.
MORE For these related stories,
FROM GQ visit GQ.co.uk/magazine
The Food Wars (Jennifer Bradly, May 2017)
Me, Myself And iPhone (Wil Harris, April 2017)
Hooked On Danger (Anthony Loyd, March 2017)
 what trump really means p.45 twin peaks p.49 prey p53 war stories p.53 billionaire tips p.60

gq intel
blade runner
left audiences with a
mystery: was rick deckard
(harrison ford) a replicant
or a human? the upcoming
sequel (starring ana de
armas, pictured) will “take
care of it”, according
to director denis
villeneuve.

THE

RISING
S TA R

IS ARMAS
FOR REAL?
Meet the Cuban actor
joining the replicants
of Blade Runner 2049
THERE was a contention back in
antiquity: “nothing comes from
nothing” (or “nihil fit ex nihilo” if
you ever find yourself trying to
impress the foreign secretary).
It’s an axiom worth remember-
ing when you encounter the likes
of Ana de Armas. Although the
29-year-old might seem to have
come out of nowhere to own the
cinema – she stars in this sum-
mer’s Scott Eastwood heist film
Photograph Fabrizio Maltese Contour Getty Images

Overdrive and plays the female

lead in this year’s event picture
E D I T E D BY CHARLIE BURTON Blade Runner 2049 – she has
been quietly building her profile
since 2006. First she had Spanish
TV shows; then, after moving to
Los Angeles in 2014, Hollywood
outings: re-watch Keanu Reeves’
Knock Knock, Robert de Niro’s
Hands Of Stone or Jonah Hill’s War
Dogs. She’s the Cuban actor steal-
ing all the scenes. A more elegant
Packs a punch: Ana de Armas played
the wife of Panamanian boxing icon
philosophical proof we challenge
Roberto Duran in Hands Of Stone you to find.

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 39

 URBAN
THE
TREND
Switch up the lido for a few lengths set against
breathtaking backdrops, as physics-defying
pools emerge across the globe
GOT A swimming pool in
your basement? We feel for
you. Innovative architects
are equipping their buildings
with what design critics have
come to call “sky pools”. Either
cantilevered over the side,
or suspended between two
towers, it’s a gravity-defying
embellishment that has won
favour around the globe. Part of
the allure is the sheer thought
of how difficult such a feature
must be to engineer: water
weighs 62.4 pounds per cubic
foot – and if a glass structure
is being used to bridge two
independently moving towers
(buildings always move) then
there are obvious complications.
40 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
A VIEW
TO A SWIM
One of our favourite examples
of a cantilevered pool can be
found at the Okura Prestige
hotel in Bangkok, overlooking
the heart of Thailand’s built-
up capital. Designed
by Palmer & Turner
Thailand for the
gq intel
Japanese luxury london’s embassy
hotel chain Nikko, gardens development,
the building has featuring a tower-
a 25-metre pool linking sky pool (similar
to 7 star’s, below left) is
that juts out at due to complete in
the 25th floor. summer 2019.
The water running
over the far edge makes
it appear as if you could
swim right out into the city.
Whether it inspires terror or
awe is a matter of constitution.
Closing the gap
This is India’s take on
a “swimming bridge”,
courtesy of the
developer 7 Star. Part
of a project called the
Twilight Star planned
for Surat, this 20-metre
long, seven-metre wide
pool is transparent at
the sides and base.
It will be situated 12
storeys up and use
the same reinforced
glass technology used Lap it up: The cantilevered pool
in aquarium tunnels. at Okura Prestige in Bangkok,
Those things never which resides on the 25th floor
break, right?
 DESIGN
THE
CASTLES IN THE SKY
ARCHETYPE
How an innovation in luxury airline seating came to underpin
the world economy. Alice Rawsthorn reports...
t’s not always easy to tell whether the business, as employees can be reasonably

I  design of one version of a product is

better than another, but there are excep-
tions, like aircraft seats. If you spend
a long-haul flight on a seat that folds out
flat like a bed, you’ll stand a fighting chance
of sleeping. If not, you’ll risk stumbling off
the aircraft feeling shattered with a throbbing
expected to fly around the world and head
straight to work. There was a time when
pundits believed that teleconferencing would
kill the business side of airlines but that hasn’t
happened because there’s still a cachet to
flying business.
Most airlines buy their bed seats from one
head and sciatica. of two manufacturers, B/E Aerospace and
In the early years of air travel, cabins were Zodiac Aerospace, then customise them.
furnished with armchairs and beds. Then came Singapore Airlines and Cathay Pacific usually
an arsenal of health and safety regulations, top best airline seat surveys conducted by self-
which decreed that furniture had to be secured explanatorily named blogs like SeatGuru and
to the floor and stipulated the degree to which View From The Wing. Dutch airline KLM is the
the seats should be resistant to fire, turbulence, design nut’s choice thanks to its collaboration
slops, spills and so on. on economy and business-class interiors with
Designing aircraft seats has since been a battle designer Hella Jongerius.
against the laws of physics to satisfy safety reg- Superfly guy: The But the lie-flat seat now has competition.
ulations and the often contradictory demands business-class seats Etihad, for instance, now offers its first-class
onboard Singapore
of airline profit targets. The simplest way to Airlines’ aircrafts “Residence” with a 6ft 10in double bed.
make passengers more comfortable is to give Securely attached to the floor, naturally.
them more space, but airlines are loath to do
this. Back when, airlines believed that the more
people they could cram into the fixed area of an
aircraft, the more profitable each flight would
be. That’s why they introduced agonisingly
uncomfortable recliner seats, which extend at
the top and bottom, but do not flatten.
In 1995, British Airways gambled that if it
replaced its first-class recliners with flatbed
seats, it could increase its fares by enough to
compensate for carrying fewer passengers.
The experiment proved so successful that BA
introduced flatbed seats to business class too,
as did its competitors. Typically, they found
the extra space by reducing the size of their
less profitable economy cabins and making the
recliners there even smaller.
The implications of the lie-flat seat are far-
reaching. The design underpins globalised

into into into into

KATE BUSH?
try
GQ PUMAROSA
BAND Frontwoman Isabel
Munoz-Newsome and
O - M AT I C
her east London-based
bandmates combine
Do something surging electro-rock
different this month; and incantation-like
tune into these lyrics to conjure up this
new sounds... heady debut record.
The Witch is out on 19 May.
THE XX WOLF ALICE? TAME IMPALA?
try try try
STEVIE PARKER GIRLPOOL POND
Combining piano
with banging beats,
LA duo Cleo Tucker
and Harmony Tividad’s
Tame Impala’s Kevin
Parker is behind the
this 24-year-old from second album of DIY production desk for this
Bristol delivers sublime, anti-folk blends their technicolour concept
ambient pop anchored wry, observational album about life in
by a voice that could lyrics with some Perth from long-time
break even the stoniest gloriously heavy, Tame collaborator Nick
of hearts. fuzzy guitars. Allbrook. Kevin Perry
The Cure is out on 19 May. Powerplant is out on 12 May. The Weather is out on 5 May.

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 41

 THE

PHOTO
BOOK

PICTURES OF
THE PUNK WARS
A new tome documents life on
the front line with the Pistols
fter journalist John Ingham first

 A saw the Sex Pistols perform in

1975, he returned to his Sounds
editor and described the gig. “As I
spoke he smiled at me strangely,”
says Ingham. “Then he told me to interview
them.” When Ingham protested that it was
premature for this unknown band, his editor
replied, “Do you know how long you’ve been
talking about them? Sixteen minutes!”
And so it was that Ingham claimed the first
interview with the Pistols – the band that
brought punk to London in the summer of
Mick Jones and Joe Strummer at The
1976. For Ingham, whose new book of pho-
Royal College Of Art, A Night Of Treason,
tographs Spirit Of 76: London Punk Eyewitness London, 5 November 1976
(Anthology Editions) documents the emergence “That was the first time The Clash had a big
of punk across music, fashion and politics, stage, and they went crazy. There was a saying at
the time, ‘If you see The Clash, it will change your
the band revitalised the dried-up rock scene.
life.’ And that was true of that night – they were
“There wasn’t anyone to get you excited for spectacular. If they ran fast enough they would
three minutes, let alone change your life,” says defy gravity; if they played fast enough they
Ingham, who became so involved that he once would be in another dimension.”
bailed Sid Vicious from jail. “They changed my
life. Punk is an attitude – it questions author-
ity – and that stuck.” Out now, £35.

The audience (including Siouxsie Sioux, Johnny Rotten at Notre Dame De France,
far right) watching The Sex Pistols at Notre London, 15 December 1976
Dame De France, London, 15 December 1976 “Look at those eyes – they’re so intelligent.
“This is my favourite picture from the book. Johnny’s not one of your typical council estate
Everyone is watching Johnny on stage. I like musicians whose life revolves around beer,
how the picture sums up the way everyone football and playing guitar. He’s got a lot of
Story Eleanor Halls Photographs John Ingham

looked. This was an important gig because it rage and he wants to tell you about it. Perhaps
was the last time the original group played. It he’s looking at a girl here. It was fascinating
was like watching rockets take off – over eight because, for all the rage and aggression, he got
months I’d seen them grow from rudimentary on very well with women. He was so soft and
to world-changing.” gentle with them.”

Rumours are rife about a
THE summer cabinet reshuffle. As
chancellor Philip Hammond
RUMOUR
RUMOUR fights for his political life
following that disastrous
MILL
spring budget, Boris Johnson
and Amber Rudd are being
BY tipped as replacements. Could
ALEX WICKHAM Theresa May soon have a new
neighbour at Downing Street?
Tory wag Damian Green was
overheard saying that May’s
cabinet office enforcer Ben
Gummer is such a big shot that
he felt compelled to offer him
a biscuit when he came for tea.
Michael Fallon replied: “He’s so
important I’d better give him
cake and a biscuit”. Does he
know he’s such a figure of fun?
Nigel Farage’s spin doctor Dan
Jukes was bemused to receive
text messages from “native
Polish speakers” responding
to his “ad on Gumtree”. No,
this Ukip aide was not seeking
out some cheap migrant
labour on the sly – he was the
victim of a fake-ad prank from
mischievous colleagues.
Jeremy Corbyn says we’re
living in a “bargain basement
economy”, but tell that to his
speechwriter David Prescott.
Prezza Jnr has been holidaying
on Lake Garda, boasting about
its “huge swimming pool
complex” and “productions of
Carmen and Aida” in Verona.
Up the workers!

42 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

ORLEBARBROWN.COM
 POLITICS
THE
WHAT DONALD TRUMP’S HAND bring your
’a’ game
PAG E
GESTURES REALLY MEAN no 30

DONALD Trump’s hands may be small, but they have taken him all the way to the Oval Office. To unravel the meaning THE BARISTA
behind his gestures, we spoke to body language expert Robert Phipps. Here’s the skinny on what he’s doing and why... FLOURISH
Marco Arrigo, Illy’s head
of quality, explains...

The finger-and-thumb circle – like holding a pen to write. It is a

AKA: Precision grip.
Used for: Demonstrating control of
the facts.
“Trump uses this to show that he is sure
of himself, in control of his facts or just
wants people to pay attention. It is
precise, as if using a precision instrument
common gesture among politicians who
want to make a point. Conversely, there is
also the incomplete precision grip, which
is when his thumb and forefinger do not
actually touch. This signifies that his
thinking is incomplete: he’s not sure
or even confused.”

The upwards gun 1 Having prepared an

AKA: Air pointing. espresso, fill a metal milk
Used for: Emphasis. jug to the base of the spout.
“The pointing finger is straight up, which is how Trump wants to appear: a ‘straight
up guy’. When most people use a pointed finger they do not have the thumb
extended to the side like Trump, this makes his gesture bigger therefore it has
more emphasis. He will often flick from his precision grip to this pointed finger,
making a point and then emphasising it.”

The hands up However, when Trump uses it, it’s usually

AKA: Submission.
Used for: Gauging reactions to an
ad-lib.
“‘Caught with your hands up’ is an old
expression, and showing empty hands
is a submissive gesture. It says, ‘I have
no weapons,’ in the most basic terms.
because he doesn’t know the answers
or is shooting from the hip and gauging
the reactions. If he feels like he’s getting
it right he continues down that track.
People will often throw their hands in
the air as a sign of honesty, but it is
often the complete opposite.”
2 Insert the nozzle just
below the surface. Hold the
jug at an angle to create a
whirlpool. Lower the jug as
the milk bubbles rise.

The ‘hey there!’

AKA: Pointing the finger.
Used for: Acknowledging his audience.
“Pointing the finger is often seen as rude when it is directly at someone but Trump
uses it to connect with an individual or a group in the audience. Pretty much all
politicians and celebrities use this gesture to at least attempt to show an interest
in ‘you’, like a ‘thanks for being here’. It lets people know they’ve been noticed and
everyone likes being noticed.” 3 Swirl the jug and bang it
on the work surface.
The general wild gesture his head are displayed on his face, in Repeat three times then
his posture and through his hand pour away the top layer of
AKA: The free flail.
movements. If his hands are moving out larger bubbles.
Used for: Showing that he’s thinking
on his feet. of sync with his words, he’s thinking on
“Trump is actually very good to watch his feet and whatever comes out is likely
from a body language point of view, as to be equally out of sync. Think of the
there is very little withholding or masking erratic way he answered many questions
with him. The thoughts that go through during the debates.” Matthew Jones

THE INSTA CLASSICS Happy-snap your Instagram feed by following the ’grammers
behind three posts we hit ‘like’ on this month 4 Hold the jug above the
cup (gripping loosely) and
pivot, pouring slowly into
the centre of the mug.

5 Move the stream to the

top of the mug. Move it
back, swinging the jug.
This creates a “leaf”. Slow
the stream and move the
jug in the other direction
@BEIGECARDIGAN @ T H E FATJ E W I S H @ S A D M I C H A E L J O R DA N
to draw the stem. CB

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 45

 Knead the dough:
Baz & Fred’s pizza bar
at Flat Iron Square
PERSONS
OF INTEREST

SAILS
PITCH
Sourcing a yacht for
the summer? Here’s
four people you need
in your contact book...

The broker
Jamie Edmiston
Only the biggest, best
and most valuable
THE
yachts in the world
LONDON make it onto Jamie’s
books. Abramovich is
SCENE said to be a client.
edmiston.com

FOOD RAVES TAKE OVER TOWN

Open-air food markets have become a new genre of summer entertainment,
with late opening hours and a festival atmosphere. Herewith, the four best...

Mercato Metropolitano
What’s the vibe?
Over 45,000 sq ft of disused
factory space in Elephant &
Castle that has been transformed
into an urban farmer’s market
(championing sustainability
and social responsibility,
naturally) by Italian businessman
Andrea Rasca.
Don’t miss:
Neapolitan pizza at Fresco
(from £7).
Wash it down with:
Birrificio del Ducato Freeride
IPA at artisanal beer shack
The Italian Job (£6 for a pint).
Tuesday-Saturday, 11am-11pm.
Sunday, 10am-9pm. 42
Newington Causeway, London
SE1. mercatometropolitano.co.uk
Giant Robot
What’s the vibe?
Street Feast’s new market is a
food and drink “rooftopia” (the
venue is London’s biggest roof
garden) bringing some of the
capital’s best street-food vendors,
two bars and a tapas joint by
José Pizarro to Canary Wharf.
Don’t miss:
Lobster roll at Bob’s Lobster
(£14).
Wash it down with:
Summer Americano – Martini
Riserva Speciale Ambrato, gin,
peach bitters, dry lemonade –
at 360° Island Bar (£10).
Sunday-Wednesday, 11am-10pm.
Thursday-Saturday, 11am-1am.
Crossrail Place, Canary Wharf
E14. streetfeast.com
Model Market
What’s the vibe?
The late-night Lewisham spot
has just reopened in time for
summer. The market’s former
shop fronts – which have all
been turned into seated
micro-diners – bring an eccentric
edge, and there are five bars,
including a rooftop beer terrace.
Don’t miss:
Jerk BBQ smoked chicken wings
at Mama’s Jerk (£7).
Wash it down with:
A tequila slushie at the
Lewisham High Line (£8.50).
Friday-Saturday, 5pm-1am.
Saturdays, 12pm-1am from the
end of May. 196 Lewisham High
Street, London SE13.
streetfeast.com
The Captain
Maria Grazia Franco
This Italian captain is
known as one of the best
in the business. Currently
the helmswoman on
Giorgio Armani’s former
yacht, the 164ft Mariu.
mymariu.com
Flat Iron Square
What’s the vibe?
Set in a rabbit warren-like
space around SE1’s railway
arches, Bankside’s latest
foodie hub boasts seven
food vendors, three restaurants,
four street-food trucks, five
The chef
bars and a live music and
Simon Ben Jones
entertainment venue run by He trained at Le Manoir
Ben Lovett of Mumford & Sons. in Oxfordshire and
was awarded a Michelin
Don’t miss: star at L’Escargot
Roast suckling pig at Bar before carving a
Douro (£13). niche in yachting.
simoncooks@icloud.com
Wash it down with:
Persian lime and gooseberry
margarita at Manti by Mike &
Ollie (£7.50). Kathleen Johnston
Monday-Sunday, 10am until late.
68 Union Street, London SE1.
flatironsquare.co.uk

The flight attendant

Gary Butcher
This former police
pilot is the go-to guy for
flight facilities – what’s a
superyacht without a
helicopter? Emily Wright
starspeed.co.uk

46 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017


Photographs Chris Davis; Eyevine; Getty Images; Writer Pictures
water cooler
intel
craig mcginlay was cast by
renowned “bond” casting
director debbie mcwilliams
for the upcoming tv series
nightfall (out in august). not
a bad contact for a
would-be 007.
THE
RISING
S TA R
ACCIDENTAL
HERO
Former sportsman Craig
McGinlay’s surprise ascent
to the court of Guy Ritchie
MOST actors go to acting school. Those
who don’t usually hustle hard for audi-
tions. It’s rare, however, to “fall into” the
profession, as Craig McGinlay did for
his role in Guy Ritchie’s new film King
Arthur: Legend Of The Sword, alongside
Jude Law and Charlie Hunnam.
McGinlay has a knack for pinballing
from one career into the next. He
began playing professional rugby for
Scotland, until a shoulder injury forced
him to switch to coaching and physio.
Later, he trained as a weightlifter for
a Commonwealth Games television
advert, in which he eventually starred
after the director deemed the original
performer too short. This led to a mod-
elling contract (spot him in commercials
for Omega and Marks & Spencer) that
won him the lead in the 2015 thriller
short Blood Loss and, in turn, resulted
in Guy Ritchie casting him in a David
Beckham Haig Club whisky ad (got all
that?). Hence this new Ritchie outing.
But acting is where it stops. McGinlay
says he has found his calling and is
doubling down by skilling up. He
has acquired a motorbike licence, for
example, despite not having a motor-
bike. He has also learned horse riding,
sword fighting, Muay Thai and jujitsu,
and can train himself for whatever body
shape a role might require. “It’s so I can
say to a director, ‘I can do it myself,’”
explains the 31-year-old. For King
Arthur, McGinlay decided to put on a
stone and a half and didn’t once need
a stunt man. He even helped other cast
members stay in shape. “In Snowdonia,
there was no gym, so I trained every-
one in the park.”
All of this preparation has an ambi-
tious end-game: McGinlay is determined
to play James Bond. “Bond is Scottish
in the books, he’s in his thirties, with a
beard and blue eyes,” says McGinlay. “It
seems like a distant dream but I want to
aim for that. I’m not ashamed to say it.
I don’t want small roles, I want to chase
the big ones.” EH
King Arthur: Legend Of The Sword is
out on 19 May.
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 47
 THE

TV
THE LYNCH EFFECT
SHOW
With Twin Peaks 2.0 now imminent, GQ
rounds up the show’s impact on modern life
AFTER Twin Peaks snuffed it, a slew of programmes inspired by it (Wild Palms,
Eerie Indiana et al) came and went, but its influence continues today. Shows set
in mysterious towns, and series-long murder investigations, all owe David Lynch’s
drama a huge debt – and it has shaped much else besides television. Ahead of its
much-hyped Sky Atlantic return on 21 May, an overview...

The vinyl revival remains in rude health. Fashion Games

Dylan Jones selects an overlooked classic to hunt
out next time you’re flicking through the crates...
ALONG with DJ Kool Herc
and Grandmaster Flash,
Afrika Bambaataa Aasim –
named after a 19th-century
Zulu chief – was one of the
most influential New York
DJs of the mid-Seventies,
responsible in part for the
birth of hip hop (he even
helped come up with the
name). Raised in the Bronx,
he became a gang leader
with a community-spirited
social network, which gave
him access to the crowds he
would soon seduce. He was
also one of the first to swap
his record decks for the
recording studio, helping
to create electro by mixing
Kraftwerk-inspired beats
with break-beats, rap and
funk. “Planet Rock” came
out in 1982 and was one of
the most influential records
of the year. Four years later
he released Planet Rock –
Illustration Dale Edwin Murray Photographs Allstar; Getty Images;
Twin Peaks is catnip for fashion designers. The programme has proven rich pickings for
Manish Arora described his AW16 collection game developers. Some take their cues from
The Album, a cornerstone
as “Twin Peaks on Haribo”. For AW14, Kenzo the show’s ambience; others are less subtle.
of the genre that includes collaborated with Lynch, providing mountain There’s Alan Wake, set in the mountain town
“Lookin’ For The Perfect prints on jackets to offset the director’s sounds Bright Falls, for instance, while Deadly
Beat” and “Renegades Of and sets. The AW15 collection went further, Premonition features an FBI agent on a
Funk”. And so electro-funk inspired by the show’s character Audrey murder case, spooky twins, and “The Pot
was born. Bambaataa Horne – “sweet but a little bit f***ed up”. Lady”. Sound familiar?
looked like George Clinton
might have done if he’d
swallowed a large fridge.
Softly spoken, direct
and mad-looking in his
octagonal sunglasses,
old hoodie and “tennises”
the size of small boats, all
Bambaataa really needed
to assume the disposition,
if not the mantle, of an
African potentate was a
throne. He had a sub- Cinema Music
mohican haircut and the
Barely a junket goes by without some Sky Ferreira’s “Night Time, My Time” is a
word “funk” razored into
filmmaker paying homage to David Lynch. quote from the film Twin Peaks: Fire Walk
the fade. The glasses gave it
away, though; he wasn’t so Some films, however, wear their reverence With Me, but self-confessed devotee Lana
much a brother from outer more heavily than others. Twin Peaks’ hues, Del Rey channels Lynch even further: her
space as a crazy buddha tones, moods and reality-blurring can be fascination with faded glamour and doomed
from the stars. A buddha, felt in the likes of Donnie Darko, Under The love, along with her Fifties aesthetic, makes
or one of The Banana Splits. Skin, starring Scarlett Johansson, and Ryan her the living personification of the show.
Gosling’s Lost River. Alex Godfrey

AUGMENT YOUR LIFE: Three substitutions you need to make this month
Ditch: Sell: Forget:
Robert Harding; iStock; Light Project Photography

Sushi Shares Cuba

Eat: Buy Holiday in:

Grilled Japanese bitcoin Chile’s Lake District

THINK Japanese, and you will likely think of sushi,
gyoza, ramen and sake. In Japan, however, grill
houses are just as popular – and now they’re
gaining traction in London. Ginza Onodera (15
Bury Street, London SW1. onodera-group.com)
is the latest in the high-end category to open,
following the likes of Jason Atherton’s Sosharu
in Clerkenwell and Jidori in Dalston.
No, it’s not just for drug-dealers on the dark web,
and, yes, you do have to take it seriously now. While
many thought virtual currency bitcoin’s value was
petering out last summer, it has now skyrocketed
again, way past its previous 2013 spike of £970
for a single bitcoin. Who cares about the (still
unsolved) identity of the mysterious creator
behind it? Your profit will be real enough.
Yes, yes, everyone is off to Cuba now, so instead
book your ticket to Chile with British Airway’s new
flight path to the capital, Santiago, which became
the airline’s longest direct route (14 hours, 40
minutes) when it launched last year. The Chilean
Lake District with its farmland, forest, volcanoes,
lakes and hot springs will make the DVT-baiting
flight well worth your while. Stuart McGurk

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 49

 HOW TO
SPOT...
THE term “virtue signalling” began
appearing, for me, around the
same time as alt-right pin-up Milo
Yiannopoulos began trolling the
entire human race while dressed
as a cross between Bruno and
Javier Bardem’s character Silva in
Skyfall. You know, sort of cartoon-
ishly queer with a Machiavellian
edge. The term, used to describe an
opinion expressed to indicate moral
correctness, is often used by self-
promoting right-wing bigots (here’s
looking at you, Milo) who want to
mock and belittle the efforts of the
Armchair
revolution
He wants to change the
world, sure, but first he
wants to change the
channel from the comfort
of his own La-Z-Boy.
So long as Stranger
Things is on Netflix,
the world can
go burn.
Food for
thought
You are what you eat, so
you, my friend, are a rare
squirrel that must live on
seeds and dry fruit. After all,
what’s more virtuous than
forking out a fortune on
unflavoured, soon to
remain uneaten,
beans?
In other news... If Trump-era political rhetoric seems like a hopeless free-for-all, well, it’s time to do
something about it. Matthew d’Ancona’s new book, Post-Truth: The New War On Truth And How To Fight Back (Ebury,
£6.99), is both an analysis of how “alternative facts” differ from traditional spin and a call to arms. Out on 25 May.
50 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
THE VIRTUE SIGNALLER
Jonathan Heaf presents a guide to catching sight of this faux
moral crusader-cum-professional complainer in the wild
so-called liberal elite – you know,
people like you and me who have
never eaten in a Harvester nor
ridden public transport. If you’re
white, middle class, own a house
and have never watched Ant &
Dec’s Saturday Night Takeaway,
apparently your political opinion
is nothing but a bad case of north
London narcissism.
Saying that, there are those men
who go on marches solely to drink
outside before lunch and meet hot,
empathetic women – beautiful,
altruistic women full of peace ’n’
love ’n’ in need of a long, close hug.
You can spot these virtue sig-
nallers (or sex pests, as the police
refer to them) a mile away in a
crowd, mainly because they’ve
usually gone for a protest sign
aimed at achieving maximum
“lols” on their social feeds rather
than actually saying anything
constructive. These men deserve
everything commentators such as
Yiannopoulos spit at them, if only
for their open lechery and atro-
cious dress sense – baggy T-shirts,
in millennial pink, natch, with pat-
ronising right-on slogans scrawled
across them (remember “This is
what a feminist looks like”?), shoes
What
do we want?
Well, the virtue signaller
wants to be cleansed of all
previous sins. By attending
a march/demo/topping-off
ceremony at a socially
responsible coffee house
in Dalston he knows you
know that he knows he’s
one of the good guys.
Like Bear Grylls.
Or Aslan.
more suitable for the white sands
of Necker than a petrol-bomb-
scarred Parliament Square, army
surplus trousers that would scare
carp out of a quiet estuary and
a face wet from crying the crocodile
tears of someone who knows Brexit
means an unbearable uptick in the
price of Waitrose-own hummus.
The only way of dealing with
these men, who appear in a fug
of vape smoke (chai-seed flavour)
and quoting Malcolm Gladwell
(incorrectly), is, I’m afraid, to run.
Run as fast as you can, don’t stop
to Snapchat and hope and pray you
don’t bump into him at the next
Hozier gig you attend with your
deaf, morphine-pumped mum.
Band
of brothers
If there’s anything
worse than those charity
wristbands it’s ten of them on
the same limb. We love the
causes behind them, but surely
wounded servicemen have
seen enough horror not to
have to witness your arm
trussed up like a
kaleidoscopic S&M
sex toy.
Illustration Jonathan Allardyce
 THE
Shirt
While a T-shirt works just
JOIN
TREND fine, for maximum impact THE FOLD
REPORT
wear your pleated trousers
with a summery linen shirt
and be sure to tuck it in. This

IT’S TIME will cause the added volume

of your trousers to make

GENTLEMAN, your waist look smaller and

your shoulders broader.

PLEATS Jacket
Let’s face it, here in
Britain the weather is
Belt so unpredictable that
You’ve tucked in your you might need an
shirt, so don’t let those extra layer of insulation
belt loops go to waste. at a moment’s notice.
Choose something Go for a jacket that
that stands out: a crops in at the waist
contrasting leather, – that way you won’t
say, or a more casual cover up all that
block-colour weave. thigh-level detail.

Trousers
Just because the cut is
looser, you mustn’t look
Trousers by Armani,
like you’re wearing £570. armani.com
someone else’s trousers.
Take your pair to the
tailor to ensure they
subtly taper down to the
ankle and break just over
the front of your shoes
– or, to push your style
creds, get them slimmed
down even closer to your
calf and cropped just
above your ankles

Photograph Florian Renner Stylist Tony Cook Grooming Charley McEwen Model Nick Offord at Elite
ood news for guys with

G
  thighs: after years of ever-
tightening cuts, trousers are
loosening up this season
thanks to a pleat revival.
These are a far cry from the ones you
remember your grandad repping when
you were a child – and there are a mul-
Trousers by J Crew,
£118. jcrew.com

titude of options hitting the market

by a spectrum of designers with dif-
ferent style sensibilities, from storied
tailors (E Tautz, Giorgio Armani, Dolce
& Gabbana) to streetwear titans (Ami,
Kolor, JW Anderson). However, they’ve
all got one thing in common: thanks to
that fold of material giving your legs Trainers
an extra bit of breathing room, they’re With a wider leg, the last
a superbly smart, seriously comfort- thing you want is for your
feet to disappear under
able option for the warmer months.
the material, so go for
Here are the rules to ensure you get it a shoe that makes your
right... Nick Carvell foot look longer. We
recommend a low-top
Jacket by Oliver Spencer, £659. sneaker in a colour that
oliverspencer.co.uk. Trousers by E Tautz, contrasts with your
£395. etautz.com. Shirt by Rag & Bone, £150. trousers – ice white
Belt by Paul Smith, £95. T-shirt by Sunspel,
£40. All at Mr Porter. mrporter.com. Trainers hits that high-visibility/
by Stella McCartney, £365. stellamccartney. versatility crosshair right Trousers by Topman,
com. Bag by Berluti, £1,495. berluti.com in the centre. £50. topman.com

52 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 VIDEO
THE
EVERYONE CAN HEAR YOU SCREAM
GAME
Prey takes a classic sci-fi set-up – a space station overrun by
hostile aliens – and gives it a host of clever twists
WHAT if John F Kennedy had survived the attempt made on his life that day in 1963? According to the French game
studio Arkane, best known for its exquisite Dishonored series, the president would have ensured the United States’
space programme had enough funding to flourish. By 2032, in the alternate timeline of their new game, Prey, scientists THE
study the cosmos from Talos 1, a moon-orbiting space station cofunded by the Americans and the Russians. You play
as Morgan Yu, arriving to work on the station on the eve of a fatal accident. Here’s why it’s smart... POWER
LUNCH

All in the mind It’s up to Yu

The Talos 1 has become a makeshift laboratory and prison, In Prey, neurological upgrades installed into your character’s
where members of a shape-shifting alien race, the Typhon – mind grant abilities that unlock the world around you. For
think Alien’s face-huggers if they could disguise themselves example, you might choose to give your character a hacking WITH most London
as chairs and crockery – are incarcerated and studied. In the ability in order to bypass security systems, or to make it easier landmarks, the
game’s opening moments, one of the Typhon escapes its cell. to lift heavy objects in order to clear paths or repair broken restaurant is an adjunct.
Unlike Ridley Scott’s work, here the horror is more cerebral in items. How you choose to develop Yu affects the way in which When Oliver Peyton is
tone, as you figure out how to best your opponents. the game plays out. involved, it becomes a
destination in its own
right. Peyton, who rose
to prominence with the
Atlantic Bar & Grill in the
mid-Nineties, has done
just this for St James’s
Park (with Inn The
Park) and the Wallace
Collection (The Wallace
Restaurant), mainly
because he understands
that going out for a meal
is all about having a
good time. And a good
time is absolutely on
offer at his latest: a
Choose your own adventure Want to break free? soup-to-nuts overhaul of
Not only is Prey’s story told in a free-form manner, you are The Talos 1 has a spine running up the station, a corridor that his National Café at the
also free to approach its obstacles in a variety of ways. Find you float through in zero gravity. From here there are various National Gallery. This is
a locked door and you may decide to hunt for a relevant key offshoot areas to explore, such as the shuttle bay, bridge and a capital “R” Restaurant:
card on a nearby cadaver, or squeeze through an air-vent crew quarters. You can investigate every nook of the station in the Galician bavette
shortcut instead. “Recycler” stations are points where whatever order you choose. It’s even possible to break out of steak, the Cornish squid,
scavenged, useless items can be crafted into useful items the station into space itself, although you’ll need an oxygen the raclette cauliflower
from blueprints based on materials in your inventory. supply. Simon Parkin Prey is out on 5 May. – are all first-rate. If
you arrive early, we
hear there are some
half-decent paintings
The novel to read: Spoils by Brian Van Reet next door.
FOR all the coverage of the war on terror, its most visceral renderings are often found in fiction. Exhibit The National Gallery,
A: Brian Van Reet’s debut novel, Spoils (Penguin, £12.99). It captures the complexities of Iraq through Trafalgar Square,
the perspectives of two soldiers – a young specialist and seasoned jihadist – all drawing on Van Reet’s London, WC2.
experience as a US Army sergeant. Here, he explains the moment his idealism was shattered… peytonandbyrne.co.uk
“Most of the fighting I participated in was against the Mahdi Army, a militia headed by Muqtada al-Sadr. o t • ta b l
sp e
They declared war against the US soldiers in Iraq in April 2004. At some point, al-Sadr was trapped in a r
e

20

mosque in Najaf and we knew where he was. This was a person who’d ordered the deaths of men that I’d 
is t e pow

is t

served with, and we didn’t take action because there was a risk of upsetting the population by attacking

20
he po
h

this holy site. I was stationed in Sadr City at the time and, at that point, I felt that troops were being used
like a prize fighter: ‘Don’t go for the knockout, just hold him at bay for a few rounds.’ If someone is trying
w
20

to kill you, you want to retaliate, and we weren’t doing that. The decision not to attack that mosque was
e

e r
sp
o t • ta b l
probably right – I’m glad the US government didn’t turn us loose and completely destroy the Mahdi Army
– but it wasn’t any easier for me to realise I was expendable.” Kathleen Johnston Spoils is out on 18 May.

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 53

 Joe Dempsie and Jeremy Irvine
Henry Lloyd-Hughes, Joe Cole,
Freddie Fox, Joe Alwyn,
Dominique Tipper
Charles Dance

James Nesbitt and Jason Flemyng

Jim Chapman

Stanley Tucci
Toby Jones

THE

PARTY GENTLEMEN,
PAG E
PLEASE
LIKE all major awards ceremonies, the night itself is just one
part of the celebrations. Prior to this year’s Baftas, GQ Editor
Dylan Jones and Alfred Dunhill CEO Andrew Maag teamed up
to host a dinner and cocktail party at Alfred Dunhill’s London
home, Bourdon House in Mayfair. It was a suitably elegant
venue for toasting some seriously stylish actors, from Aidan

Andrew Maag
Turner and Stanley Tucci to Mark Strong and Max Irons.
Here’s how a winning evening unfolded...

Photographs Ben Bradshaw; Getty Images; Paul Gonzales

Aidan Turner
Mark Strong

Betty Bachz

Max Irons

54 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 I.N.O.X. CARBON

95/96 New Bond Street, London

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 THE

JOY
DESIGNER LIVING GOES UP A GEAR
WHEN the Range Rover Velar debuted
RIDE
at London’s Design Museum, it was
as much a car launch as a preview of
a future exhibit. After all, this car has
already won plaudits from several non-
automotive design institutions across
the world, including Studio Hopwood,
the interiors powerhouse run by British
Institute Of Interior Design director
Daniel Hopwood. When GQ sent him
images of Land Rover’s latest Velar,
he described it as, “less like a car and
more in line with some of the high-
end bachelor pads I design. The ethos
is leisure, where nothing’s demanding.”
(Fun fact: “Velar” was the code
name used for original 1969 Range
Rover prototypes.)
Land Rover’s design director, Gerry
McGovern, wanted to introduce a sense
of reductionism to the look of the
vehicle without compromising on tech-
nological firepower. Inside is where his
achievements are most apparent. The
physical dashboard amounts to three
rotary dials – the rest of the functions
are controlled by two high-definition
10in touchscreens between the front
seats (though the lower’s been so clev-
erly integrated into the cabin that it’s
only noticeable when it’s “awoken”
with a tap). “The black lacquer is
a showpiece surface. There’s personality
in the space and it’s not fighting with
the technology but being enhanced
by it. That gives the smaller details
space to work,” says Hopwood. We’re
ready to move in. Matthew Jones

Tech
Peter Virk, Land Rover’s head of connected
technologies and apps, says that the “Touch
Pro Duo” electronics are tantamount to a
“digital butler”, building a custom profile of
your driving, navigational and environmental
preferences. “It learns and anticipates your
needs the more you drive it,” says Virk.

56 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017


Tomorrow’s whirl:
The Velar features tech
which learns to react to the
driver’s habits and needs,
acting as a ‘personal butler’
Interior
For the first time in the premium SUV market,
you can option a sustainable, vegan interior. It
was developed by design textile manufacturer
Kvadrat, which supplies to industries as varied
as aerospace, healthcare and hospitality, and
is complemented with Suedecloth inserts,
made from recycled plastic bottles.
Front
At the heart of McGovern’s outline are the
full matrix-laser LED headlights, which are
the slimmest to appear on a production
Land Rover. Flush, deployable door handles
also smooth the vehicle’s flanks while
burnished copper-coloured detailing adds
an elegant flourish to the front end.
From £44,830. landrover.co.uk
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 57
 THE

HAY WYE AND WHEREFORE

PREVIEW FAMOUSLY described by Bill Clinton as a “Woodstock of the mind”, Hay-on-Wye’s
famous Festival Of Literature And The Arts was founded around a kitchen table by
HOW TO BEHAVE
Peter Florence and his father in 1987. This year marks its 30th anniversary: the lineup is ON THE RIVIERA
punchier than ever and has a special focus on politics. After the year we’ve had, how could Your guide to playing it
cool on the sunny strip
it not? With so much to see, here’s a GQ edit of the highlights. EH hayfestival.com

Thursday 25 May Saturday 27 May Sunday 28 May ONLY bronzed

twentysomething
8:30pm: Eddie Izzard’s 5:30pm: “Letters Live” once again 10am: British historian and author women dancing on a
world tour, aptly named celebrates the enduring power of literary Ben Macintyre (below) will discuss his yacht too big to moor
Force Majeure, cycled correspondence, with remarkable letters latest work, SAS: Rogue Heroes – The in Saint-Tropez’s
through 28 different read out by a series of special guests Authorised Wartime History, the first harbour can pull off
countries before it hit the West End, and performers. Last year saw ever officially sanctioned history of aviator sunglasses. The
and now the Hay stage. It’s the first Benedict Cumberbatch, the regiment. Macintyre was granted noughties are over.
appearance by the comedian (above) Tom Hollander and unprecedented access to the archives Buy some Persols.
at the festival in 20 years. Olivia Coleman take and dug out secret reports from
to the stage. the very first missions. The Russian
Friday 26 May 7pm: Irish comedian 5:30pm: Tracey billionairess at Le Club
4pm: The former deputy and television host Emin (right) will 55 isn’t looking at you,
prime minister Nick Graham Norton be in conversation she’s checking that
Clegg (right) will talk (right) discusses his with GQ Editor you’re looking at her.
to GQ’s Political debut novel Holding. A Dylan Jones about Eyes front.
Editor, Matthew more sober work than you the extent to which her
d’Ancona, about the might expect from the comedian, personal life has inspired When lying to an
Lib-Con coalition Holding explores how an Irish her art, from painting to attractive American
and the state of community reacts when its needlework and drawing tourist about “your”
global politics today. secrets are exposed. to sculpture. superyacht, conform
to the dress code of
Monday 29 May Tuesday 30 May Wednesday 31 May the boat-owning elite
– cashmere socks or
1pm: Greece’s former 2:30pm: Second-wave 4pm: Award-winning British- deck shoes (bare feet
finance minister feminist Germaine Greer Bangladeshi writer Tahmima Anam drag in stones and
Yanis Varoufakis (left) will (right) will pay homage to (below) – author of A Golden Age scratch the teak).
talk with the FT’s Gillian the enduring legacy of and The Good Muslim – will deliver
Tett about his new book, one of her favourite her Hay Festival Reformation French seaside truism:
Adults In The Room: My artists from her talk on national borders, the worst bodies wear
Battle With Europe’s Deep homeland, Sidney Nolan, reimagining walls and the smallest trunks.
Establishment, an attack on the known for his striking checkpoints as places Keep it decent (and
corruption of European politics. landscapes of the of welcome and refuge. wear Sundek like
Brexiteers, don’t get your hopes up: Australian outback. 2:30pm: Mary Aiken, who the locals).
Varoufakis championed Remain. 5:30pm: Legendary describes herself as the
5:30pm: Author Neil Gaiman and guitarist Brian May world’s foremost forensic That jumper is for
comedian Stephen Fry will celebrate (right) will present cyber psychologist, will talk about the your whole torso,
the tales and myths of Northern and his new book, Queen research presented in her latest book, not just your
Mediterranean Europe. Gaiman will In 3-D, featuring The Cyber Effect, which explores the shoulders. “Riviera
discuss his newly published book on the never-before-seen dangers of the dark net and society’s chic” is Europe’s
sources that inspired Tolkien and Marvel. photos May took of the failure to respond adequately to its greatest misnomer.
Fry, on the other hand, will reimagine band on his 3-D threats. If you don’t know what
Greek myths for the modern day. stereo camera. “cranking” is, this is for you. Disaster lurks in the
third bottle of rosé.
Thursday 1 June Friday 2 June Saturday 3 June Pace yourself – it’s
a long day on
7pm: Lecturer and 11:30am: Simon Baron-Cohen (below), 8:30pm: Welsh the Riviera.
broadcaster Jerry professor of developmental actor and director
Brotton (right) will psychopathology at Michael Sheen (right), If you’re driving
Photographs Getty Images

deliver his Hay Festival Cambridge, Wellcome star of last year’s anything other than
Reformation talk on Book Prize judge and the Passengers and a Citroën Méhari or
Shakespeare, asking how can still we first cousin of comedian Nocturnal Animals, Rolls-Royce Phantom
understand the Bard when his language Sacha Baron Cohen, will will deliver Hay’s annual Aneurin Drophead Coupé,
seems more remote than ever. deliver a lecture on the Bevan Lecture. nobody cares about
8:30pm: After more than 100 dates on prestigious Wellcome award. 7pm: A Hay festival highlight, your stupid car.
the road in 2016, comedian and star of 8:30pm: It’s question time at Hay Democrat Bernie Sanders (below) will 
Live At The Apollo, Mock The Week and Festival as Labour MP Jess talk to Emily Maitlis Gold-rimmed
Have I Got News For You Mark Watson Phillips, opinion editor about emerging sunglasses after
(below) will take to the stage at of the Guardian Kira from relative 8pm? Rookie error,
Hay. Known for researching Cochrane, columnist obscurity to win my friend. Invest in a
his audience beforehand via and activist Bryony the vote of 13 pair of “dress shades”.
Twitter, prepare yourself for Gordon and filmmaker million people
a possible name and Hannah Rothschild in the US When it comes to
shame. (left) debate the Democratic beach watches, go big
issues of the day. primaries. or go home. MJ

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 59

 THE

ENTREPRENEUR

Brian Chesky
The CEO and cofounder of Airbnb – the $31 billion home-sharing company that operates across
191 different countries with more than 150 million users – reveals what he has learned...
Choose failure over regret
Born San Francisco
Age 35 “Jeff Bezos’ ‘Regret
Minimisation Framework’,
advises choosing fewer
EDUCATION
regrets over fewer failures.
Each year, it’s harder to
1999 – 2004 do something new – you
Rhode Island School Of Design,
BA Fine Arts
have one less year of
Airbnb’s headquarters in San Francisco, 2015
your life to do it.”

Don’t settle CAREER IN BRIEF

“At school, my teachers would say,

‘You’re a designer. You could design
the world you live in.’ That was 2005 – 2007
very inspiring. But, at 3DID I was Industrial designer at 3DID,
Los Angeles
designing products that would end
up in landfill. I quit my job and left 2007
LA with $1,000 in my bank.” Moves to San Francisco with
school friend (and future Chesky with his Airbnb
Airbnb cofounder) Joe Gebbia cofounders Joe Gebbia
and Nathan Blecharczyk
October 2007
Launched Live with your cofounders
airbedandbreakfast.com “The turning point for Airbnb was
when my two cofounders and I
April 2009 lived and worked together seven
Airbnb receives funding
worth $600,000 days a week. Bouncing ideas around
late at night formed some magical
May 2011 moments and that close bond is
airbedandbreakfast.com in
Ashton Kutcher invests what builds your company.”
2007; (right) Airbnb’s app, 2017 in the company

October 2013 Chesky with Ashton

Stop fretting about copycats Airbnb receives its Kutcher, an early

Story Eleanor Halls Photographs Courtesy of Airbnb; Getty Images

investor in Airbnb
“I remember when I started nine-millionth booking
Airbnb, somebody told me, January 2017
‘Don’t worry about someone Airbnb reports that it is in profit
stealing your idea. They
will only dismiss it.’” Go direct to source
“By picking the right
source, you can fast- Grip any crises
forward learning something “We had a PR
new. I’m pretty shameless
when asking for help, nightmare after renters
including from Mark trashed a home in San
Zuckerberg and Warren Francisco. I was advised to
Buffett. The circumstances increase the guarantee for
might be different, but you
can learn the outlying hosts ten-fold. In a crisis,
Chesky at work on a fundraising initiative selling principles and see if they if you move in one direction,
cereal during the 2008 presidential election apply to you.” you’re usually OK.”
60 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
Jack of
all trades
Jack Guinness is part of a new wave of male models who have become
personalities in their own right. He works for the world’s biggest designers,
throws legendary parties for the many starry names in his orbit and is now
parlaying his clout into the worlds of presenting and publishing. So how
did a vicar’s son end up here – and what exactly will he do next?
ack’s Bar is the hottest nightspot he was like, ‘Jack, I’ve got the thing for you. up and down and decide whether they

J  you’ve never heard of. Tucked down

a quiet residential street, this east
London hangout is a favourite haunt
for the likes of Daisy Lowe and Alexa
Chung. It’s a place where you’ll find Florence
Welch giving an impromptu performance or
Carl Barât playing a DJ set. It has welcomed
Pixie Geldof and Nick Grimshaw to its karaoke
nights (Grimshaw has quite the reputation for
his Lil’ Kim renditions). You might even have
seen Instagram photos taken there reprinted in
newspaper showbiz pages – even if the location
was a mystery.
“This,” says Jack Guinness, “is Jack’s Bar.”
It’s a wooden counter in the corner of his
living room. Guinness picked it up a few years
ago from a junk seller on his street. “One day
You’re the only person I know that’ll buy
it. I’ve got a bar!’ I was like, ‘I’m not buying
a bar...’” Guinness relented, and the rest is
history. The flat he rents in a converted cloth-
ing factory in Hackney can accommodate
quite a crowd. “Once we were having a party
and some guy came up to me, he was on the
phone, and was like, ‘What’s the name of this
club, man?’ I was like, ‘This isn’t a club, it’s my
house – get out!’”
Even if you don’t know Jack Guinness’ name,
you almost certainly know his face. He’s a
model-slash-presenter-slash-DJ-slash-you-
name-it (his friends call him a “slashie”). “My
worst nightmare is at a wedding if someone
asks me what I do. If you tell them you’re
a model, the first thing they do is look you
think you should be a model,” explains the
34-year-old. “Often I’ll say I work in fashion.”
Guinness has fronted campaigns for Ugg,
Longchamp, Barbour, Brioni, L’Oréal, Nicole
Farhi and Dunhill. Last year he made a film
for Gucci; this January he walked for Dolce &
Gabbana in Milan. He is lauded in the indus-
try for his ants-in-your-pants charisma – the
multitude of notable people in his orbit is
testament to that – and he enjoys a kind of
cultural fluidity reminiscent of early-noughties
Dan Macmillan. To the Times, Guinness is
“the very epitome of the modern man about
town”. To the Evening Standard, he is one
of “London’s most influential people”. To
Tatler, for whom he has written a column, he is
known simply as the “Bearded Scenester”.

STORY BY Charlie Burton PHOTOGRAPHS BY Tomo Brejc

62 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 JACK GUINNESS

Suit, £1,590. Waistcoat, £395. Both by

Thom Sweeney. thomsweeney.co.uk.
Shirt by Canali, £175. Pocket square by
Paul Smith, £50. paulsmith.com. Tie by
Hermès, £140. uk.hermes.com. Shoes by
Ermenegildo Zegna, £460. zegna.co.uk

‘I’m basically a
fashion fanboy
who has got to
live this life’
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 63
64 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

‘I don’t like being
told what to do.
That’s why I didn’t
get a normal job’
Suit by Casely-Hayford, £1,295. casely-hayford.com.
Shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna, £230. At Fenwick. fenwick.co.uk.
Tie by Paul Smith, £90. paulsmith.com.
Shoes by Russell & Bromley, £235. russellandbromley.co.uk.
Pocket square by Paul Smith, £50. paulsmith.com
JACK GUINNESS
Guinness has one of the most famous
beards in fashion. He started growing it as
a student because he couldn’t be bothered
to shave. Inadvertently, he had struck beard
gold: when he started modelling in 2008, few
of his competitors had facial hair. “I cleaned up
in the beginning,” he says. “If you wanted a
bearded model with long hair: ‘Phone Jack!’”
It was a blessing and a curse – today, others
have jumped on the beard bandwagon but he
feels stuck with the look. He has dreams, he
says, of shaving. “It’s not that I don’t love my
beard, but I haven’t seen what my face is like
for at least five years, maybe longer. I have
vague recollections of looking like quite a
handsome girl. For me, I make my money out
of my beard, which is the weirdest sentence to
say, but I do. If I shave it off, I’ll be destitute!”
And who maintains this lucrative thicket? An
Iranian barber at a place called The Clip Joint,
one minute’s walk from Guinness’ flat, who
charges £6.50 a trim. “He gets really excited
if he sees it two days later on, like, the Dolce
& Gabbana catwalk. He feels more ownership
over my beard than I do. It’s his beard not my
beard. I just take it around Europe for him.”
uinness was born in Lambeth
G
  and raised there until his father, a
vicar descended from the brewing
tycoon Arthur Guinness, moved
the family to Belgravia ten years
later. He spent his childhood “in a hurry to
grow up” – as a teenager, he resented the stric-
tures of school. “I don’t like being told what
to do,” he says. “I think that’s probably why
I ended up not getting a normal job.” He pre-
ferred to go drinking with friends or geek out
on cinema. The British Film Institute would
often host live interviews with film directors
in the evening and Guinness would wake hours
before school started to nab returned tickets.
“The cleaners would let me in at about five in
the morning and I’d queue up. I’d spend four
hours reading a book, as they opened at nine,
then they’d give me a ticket and I’d come back
after school.” He saw Woody Allen, Kenneth
Branagh and Quentin Tarantino among others,
but academic study took a backseat. “I got
terrible GCSEs.”
It surprised everyone when he got into
Cambridge University to read English, not
least his older brother who had promised to
give him cash for every A he got at A-level
(“When I did get four As, he refused to give
me any money!”). Guinness still felt in a hurry
to get out into the world, he says, but threw
himself into the Cambridge drama scene. He
performed Shakespeare in medieval gardens;
he toured a production of Oscar Wilde’s Lady
Windermere’s Fan to Canada. He graduated
in 2004 determined to be an actor. Minor
parts came along, notably some short films
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 65
 and a Channel 5 series called Push, but
after a few humiliating auditions too many –
he remembers having to crawl around pretend-
ing to be a cat – he realised that he wouldn’t
break though. “Having to give up on a dream,
depressing as it sounds, is a very good lesson
in life to have young.” Guinness’ favourite
author is Thomas Hardy and he can’t help but
read himself into Hardy’s novels. “The idea
of people not getting what they want – that’s
what Thomas Hardy is all about,” he says. “The
curse and tragedy of the Hardy characters is
they can’t let go; they can’t move on.”
You need only step into Guinness’ bedroom
to see how successfully he has managed to
do just that. The bohemian-style space, all
throws and picture frames and pot plants, is
dominated by two rails on the far wall bursting
with clothes. He has always been into fashion
– as a teenager he was fixated on a suit in the
window of Armani – but now has such an
extensive wardrobe that when his friends come
over for “fropping” (translation: free shop-
ping) he has to take a picture of them holding
what they’re borrowing so that he remembers
who has what. “I’m basically like a fashion
fanboy that’s got to live this life.” That said,
he turned down an earlier chance to break
into the industry. At Cambridge he walked in
a charity fashion show organised by a friend.
It was the first time he had ever been on a
catwalk and Storm Management, the sponsors,
were running a competition for the best male
and female participant. The first prize was rep-
resentation from Storm. “I won it and I never
signed up – I didn’t go for it,” says Guinness.
“Boys don’t grow up being like, ‘I want to be
a model.’” It was only after a moment of exas-
peration about his acting career years later that
he took up a friend’s offer to put him in touch
with a booker. He did a magazine shoot the
very next day. “And that was it – and I never
looked back.”
odelling is famously one of the
M
  few industries where a reverse
gender pay gap exists. Forbes’
2016 list of the 20 highest paid
models didn’t include any
men. It put Gisele Bündchen at the top, esti-
mating her annual earnings at $30.5 million;
the last time Forbes ranked male models, in
2013, the top slot went to Sean O’Pry with an
estimated $1.5m. Where the men are now start-
ing to rival the women, however, is status: a
new wave of male models such as David Gandy
have become personalities in their own right,
and Guinness is one of them. The lifespan of
a male model can be short, but Guinness has
had longevity partly because he has a reputa-
tion for being entertaining on a shoot.
The model and TV presenter Alexa Chung,
who lived with Guinness as he was starting out
66 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
in fashion (they remain close – he still has some
of her furniture), recalls working with him on
a recent Longchamp campaign. “They needed
a male counterpart for me and said, ‘Choose
someone that has a good vibe and will make
you laugh all day.’ Obviously, Jack was my
first thought. He just completely charmed the
pants off the whole crew. He left a day early
and they spent the whole next day asking
me, ‘Where’s Jack?’ I was like, ‘All right, guys,
am I not good enough?’”
He is, Chung says, irrepressibly personable.
“I remember him meeting my parents for
the first time. It was 2pm on a Sunday and
Jack rolled out of his bedroom not realising
that they were in the kitchen. He was just
wearing his saggy, white underwear and he
had sunglasses on because he was hungover,
and he had a wild Jesus mane. But still really
polite and gentlemanly – looking like that
scene in Notting Hill when Hugh Grant’s flat-
mate [Rhys Ifans] emerges – and he was like,
‘Hi, lovely to meet you!’”
‘Show me a model
that’s spiritually
fulfilled and I’ll
show you a
crazy person’
Guinness moved in with Chung because they
shared a mutual acquaintance and she needed
to fill a spare room, but it was good fortune:
she introduced him to her friends and he
ended up in a close-knit group that includes
Grimshaw, Geldof and Lowe. Attending parties
is now part of Guinness’ job, so it’s just as
well that they are his metier. Glastonbury,
for instance, is one of the highlights of his
year. “I absolutely love it,” he says. “It’s like
your local but with hundreds of thousands of
people in it. And mud.” Though sometimes he
has gone rather too hard. “I once woke up and
I’d had just a few too many ‘ciders’ the night
before and I thought I was dying. It was the
hot year [2010], and I thought, ‘Oh gosh, I’m
overheating.’ So I took off all my clothes and
I pulled all the drawers out of a fridge in this
Winnebago – took the ice box out, the lettuce
crisper – and in I went in my pants. Then there
was a little knock on the Winnebago door. The
door swung open and there was Kate Moss.
Of all the people you don’t want to see you in
your pants crying in a fridge, with carrots and
iceberg lettuces rolling around your feet. And
she just said, ‘Have you overcooked it, babe?’
And I went, ‘Yeah, I’ve overcooked it.’ And she
said, ‘Aw, I hate it when that happens.’”
here’s an inevitable question as to
T
  whether his connections gave him
a leg up in the modelling world.
“Maybe I got invited to parties.
I have no idea – that would have
been something I wasn’t aware of. Hopefully
I got invited back because people thought I
was funny or they liked taking the piss out of
me.” He feels the same about being a Guinness.
“In the fashion industry and the press there
would maybe be extra interest because of it,”
he says. “So maybe it would get your foot in
the door. But then the question is: are you
good at your job? Are you good at standing
still while you’re having your picture taken?
And the answer is yes, I’m brilliant at it! So
then the name melted away.”
This is typical of how Guinness talks about
modelling. “I’m a human clothes hanger,” he
declares. “Sometimes I can’t believe my luck
that I’m getting paid for that. But that is my
job so you have to laugh about it.” Does he
find it fulfilling? “I love it and I have a great
time doing it,” he says. “[But] if I was spiritu-
ally fulfilled by modelling you should probably
be a bit worried about me. You show me a
model that’s spiritually fulfilled, I’ll show you
a crazy person.” He feels greater satisfaction
when he is praised for something he has per-
sonally created, rather than a photo in which
he looks handsome. Hence his broad range of
side gigs: recently he acted as content direc-
tor for a special issue of Flaunt magazine, for
instance, and last year made documentaries
for Channel 4’s World Of Weird. Next up, he’s
working on two hush-hush projects that “move
me on in my career”: one is television-related,
the other is a tech-meets-fashion company
that he’s cofounding. “But I will never, ever
stop modelling. It’s been such a big part of
me. I’ll be that guy [saying], ‘Please take a
picture of me!’, and they’ll be like, ‘No, old
man, go away!’”
For all these ambitions, he no longer feels as
he did when he was younger – he no longer
feels in a hurry. “I’m trying to slow my head
down, look around, pause, be in the moment
and just think, ‘Yeah I’ve done it – I’ve arrived,’”
he says. “I’m having the time of my life.”
MORE For these related stories,
FROM GQ visit GQ.co.uk/magazine
The Business Of Fashion (Jonathan Heaf, March 2016)
First Denim Now The World (Nick Carvell, March 2016)
Andrew Weitz Will Dress You To Success
(Vincent Boucher, February 2016)
 JACK GUINNESS

‘Having to give up
on a dream is a
good lesson in life
to have young’
Suit by Hardie Amies, from £450. hardyamies.com. Shirt by Ermenegildo
Zegna, £340. At Fenwick. fenwick.co.uk. Folio by Paul Smith, £695.
paulsmith.com. Tie by Peckham Rye, £62. At Fenwick. fenwick.co.uk. Shoes
by Russell & Bromley, £245. russellandbromley.co.uk. Pocket square by
Drake’s, £55. drakes.com. Sunglasses by Fendi, £390. fendi.com

Styling Tony Cook Grooming Paul Donovan

Photo assistants Amelia Karlsen; Ben Ottewell

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 67

 E D I T E D BY MATTHEW JONES

Sandstorm: Land Rover’s new Discovery

prepares to race up-dune and
down-valley in Utah’s Coral Pink park

70 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 CARS

We tested it
to the point of
destruction then
went shopping
in it, so we know
it can cope

DISCO DESERT IN
THE
The fifth-gen Discovery proves Land Rover’s latest dune-busting
SUV has found its calling from high street to hinterland
STORY BY Jason Barlow PHOTOGRAPHS BY Nick Dimbleby and David Shepard

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 71

 he Coral Pink dunes of the world’s most coveted brands.

T
in southwestern
Utah contain 3,730
acres of shifting
sand, blown through
a gap between
the Moquith and
Moccasin moun-
tains. There’s a
beetle hereabouts that you won’t find
anywhere else on the planet, earning
a section of the dunes protected status
and a cordon. How this little critter
knows not to stray isn’t clear, but today
they’re joined by a fleet of Land Rover
Discoveries, individual tyre pres-
sures reduced from 34 to just 18psi to
lengthen their rubber footprint and
generate the necessary purchase on
the sand.
The dunes look magnificent, but
there’s real hostility in this terrain, at
least if you’re planning to point two
tonnes of premium SUV down a con-
stantly morphing landmass. Or, worse
still, trying to drive up it. But the
Discovery does it with ease, just as it
can manage a rock crawl – also tricky,
if not mechanically fatal, when tackled
in the wrong car – or scythe across
impossible-looking Scottish heath.
It can do everything, a formidably
engineered British masterpiece that
dreams of a life beyond the Waitrose
car park.
The fifth generation is all-new
and represents arguably the biggest
overhaul in the Discovery’s 28-year
existence. Land Rover is a company
transformed in that time, former
British Leyland basket case turned one
If the Range Rover is the most com-
plete luxury vehicle on sale, its little
brother aspires to an all-encompassing
usefulness. That’s more relevant but
not as sexy, which is probably why
the new Disco has gone upmarket.
This isn’t a risk-free strategy, because
a fully lockable differential is the NEED
beardy Land Rover loyalist’s idea of
connectivity and you can’t operate a
TO
touchscreen with gloves on. So this car
KNOW
has it all to do. THE CONCEPT
The new Disco’s body is 85 per The 10in touchscreen
has dual-view, which
cent aluminium, which cuts a thump-
allows the driver to
ing 454kg off the base car’s weight, use the sat-nav while
and the entire body side is a single the passenger
pressing to improve rigidity while watches a film.
being less complex to manufacture. ENGINE
240bhp 2.0-litre
There’s another single-piece press- four-cylinder
ing for the floor, the dash structure PERFORMANCE
is magnesium and lightweight steel is 0-62mph in 8.3 secs;
used on the front and rear subframes. top speed 121mph
The air suspension has a state-of-the- PRICE From £43,495
art integral multilink rear to minimise CONTACT
roll without wrecking the ride, while landrover.co.uk
still preserving the impact resistance possible to use,” chief product engi-
an SUV needs. neer Alex Heslop says. Even up a
At the heart of its incredible ver- fast- flowing river – the Discovery
satility is a software system called has a 900mm wading depth, thanks
“Terrain Response 2”, which automat- to a “labyrinth intake” system that
ically monitors and optimises throttle, basically means the engine can breathe
steering and traction, while the “All- underwater. “It could go deeper,”
Terrain Progress Control” (ATPC) is Heslop tells me, “but above that figure
effectively an off-road cruise control. you lose traction at the rear and the car
Ground clearance of 283mm and wheel begins to float. And you need to open
articulation of 500mm mean that even the rear doors to combat that, which
the most clod-hopping off-road neo- isn’t ideal.”
phyte can work magic. It’s also peerless when it’s not semi-
“We wanted to create a vehicle aquatic. We switched between the
that was easy for as many people as 254bhp 3.0-litre TDV6 and 340bhp

GQ’S TOP FIVE CARS FROM THE GENEVA MOTOR SHOW

From Rolls-Royce’s diamond-speckled one-of-a-kind to the everyday Volvo that’s anything but

McLaren 720S Volvo XC60 Ruf CTR Rolls-Royce Honda Civic Type R
If ever there’s a collective IQ We’ve put the GQ stamp Ruf isn’t your average Ghost Elegance The future is electric and
to beat Mensa it’s McLaren’s of approval on everything Porsche tuner. In 1987 it One thousand diamonds autonomous, so this sensibly
Photographs Land Rover

engineering department
– even the headlights on the
720S are put to use (sending
cool air to the engine). The
212mph Ferrari 488 GTB-rival
is also the latest ambassador
for the brand’s “Special
Operations” division, which
tailors your supercar
however you want it.
Volvo’s created under
designer Thomas Ingenlath,
so we were nervous when
the Swedes announced a
car for the deeply ordinary
mid-sized SUV market. The
XC60 didn’t let us down,
rolling in Scandi luxe and
autonomous tech from the
bigger XC90.
created the fastest car in the
world, the 911 “Yellow Bird”.
Thirty years on it’s come up
with this unhinged tribute
– panels, chassis and seats,
all carbon fibre and a 710bhp
flat-six engine. That adds up
to 0-60mph in 3.4 seconds
and top speed of 225mph.
A brutally fitting tribute.
were crushed and mixed
into the paint of this one-off
from Rolls-Royce – a brand
that’s fast becoming one
of the most creative in the
business. We weren’t given
a price, but were assured
that it is the most expensive
Ghost to have ever left
the factory.
priced hot hatch from
Japan’s most reliably
eccentric carmaker was
the black sheep of the
show. Powered by a 316bhp
2.0-litre, turbocharged petrol
engine, it looks like it’s about
to start a fight with itself. It’s
a car that gives us hope for
the industry’s soul. MJ

72 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 CARS

3.0-litre Si6 petrol, both of which but more generic looking and creating
swept us through the imperious Utah a space big enough for that third row
landscape with minimum fuss. The of seats has saddled it with a hefty rear
smaller 2.0-litre diesel is much less end. Secondly, the Disco’s upmarket
refined, but still does a game job of aspirations, though perfectly legiti-
hauling what is a very substantial car. mate and attuned to the market, give
The interior is endlessly configurable it a distinctly different character. And
and accommodates seven full-size cost: prices start at £43,495, but an
adults in total comfort. Between optioned-up TDV6 in HSE Luxury spec
the giant door bins, glove box and costs close to £70,000. We tested it to
underfloor areas, there’s 172 litres of the point of destruction in some of the
storage – four iPads or a pair of two- harshest terrain we could find, then
litre water bottles can fit in the centre went shopping in it, so we know it can
console. Up to four 12V sockets and cope. But we’d have ours with rubber
nine USB charging points can be spec- floor mats.
ified and in-car 4G Wi-Fi can support
up to eight devices. Apparently, it’s
called connectivity.
The driver and passenger get Jaguar
Land Rover’s “InControl Touch Pro”
The fifth generation represents
multimedia setup, which includes a
10in touchscreen, dual view, sat nav
the biggest overhaul in the
with a new “commute mode” and all
sorts of other displays and graphics.
The Meridien audio system was treated
Discovery’s 28-year existence
to some serious drum‘n’bass at one
point (our co-driver was Brit rapper
Example, not your average in-car DJ)
and was powerful enough to dislodge
chunks of 90 million-year-old canyon.
So what we have here is a monumen-
tally capable car. But there are a few
issues. Firstly, the outgoing Discovery’s
blocky modernism apparently polarised Disco tech: As well as state-of-the-art
too many potential customers, although suspension and a wading depth of
900mm, the new Discovery also
I personally regard it as a 21st-century packs a mighty multimedia setup and
design classic. The new one is smoother booming audio system in the cab

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 73

Michelin Pilot Sport 4 s
Genuine Passion
Exceptional Drives

Ranked N°1 for braking on dry surfaces and excellent on wet surfaces,
the new MICHELIN Pilot Sport 4 S is engineered for superior safety
and performance. Thanks to its Dynamic Response technology and
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 CARS

Restored to power
With princely rides, four-wheeled family heirlooms and resurrected
‘barn finds’, the fifth Cartier ‘Travel With Style’ Concours d’Elégance parks
up in Hyderabad to celebrate motoring’s glittering heritage

STORY BY Bill Prince PHOTOGRAPHS BY Chris Caldicott

Wheelie wild show:

A 1954 Triumph
Tiger 100 fronts the
motorcycle field in
the grounds of the
Taj Falaknuma
Palace, Hyderabad,
5 February 2017

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 75

 CARS
e’s been described as the
H “king of collecting” and
the “king of cars”, but 80-
year-old Sharad Sanghi
prefers “king of the chabad-
dis – it means junkies,” he chuckles. And
with good reason: his father may have
been responsible for importing many
of the vehicles currently displayed on
the verdant lawns of Hyderabad’s Taj
Falaknuma Palace – including the golden
1919 Daimler that’s greeting guests to
the fifth Cartier “Travel With Style”
Concours d’Elégance – but Sanghi Sr’s
indifference to reclaiming such one-
of-a-kind vehicles after they’d fallen
into disuse left his son with no option
but to start collecting what had become,
by the Sixties, an endangered species:
the often unique, uber-luxurious auto-
mobiles of India’s finest families.
“In those days, the cars were allowed
to leave the country,” explains Mr
Sanghi, who this year received the
Cartier Honour Trophy for his efforts
in securing India’s automotive herit-
age from the Concours’ curator and
chief instigator, Manvendra Singh. “My
brother managed to buy a few, but
a good many left, which left the hidden,
the untraceable...”
It’s these “barn finds” that form the
backbone of the Unesco-recognised
event, throwing up incredible stories
of hidden gems reclaimed from the four
corners of the country. Still, “barn find”
hardly does justice to the 1949 Bristol
400 memorably described by Concours
MC Alain De Cadenet as resembling
a “sky burial” when it was rediscov-
ered buried beneath a rubbish dump,
a fallen tree having severed its chassis.
Painstakingly rebuilt and presented
in its new violet-green livery, it won
the 2017 Cartier Resurrection Cup in
recognition of its Mumbai restorers’
Herculean efforts.
If the Bristol and its travails pointed
to one end of the restoration trail –
one of many against-the-odds tales
retold as the judges (who included
Lord March, HRH Prince Michael of
Kent and Condé Nast International
President Nicholas Coleridge) made
their way around the Falaknuma
Palace’s immaculate grounds – then
several of the loftier-looking prewar
marques came with their own incredi-
ble stories: such as a 1935 Rolls-Royce
Phantom II whose Lalique “rooster”
hood ornament was discovered during
restoration, safely locked inside the
previous owner’s hidden “jewellery
76 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
NEED
TO
KNOW
THE SHOW
Ranked alongside
Concorso d’Eleganza
Villa d’Este and
the Pebble Beach
Concours d’Elegance,
Cartier “Travel With
Style” Concours
d’Elégance hosted
its fifth biennial
exhibition of India’s
automotive heritage
on 5 February at
the Taj Falaknuma
Palace, formerly
the royal seat of the
nizams of Hyderabad.
The Bristol 400 resembled a
SKY BURIAL when it was found
box” (a copy now takes the place the fourth generation, and everyone is
of the priceless original). Today, the car everywhere, so a car like this, it con-
belongs to the well-known Indian car nects back. Our cousins’ children work
collector and restorer Viveck Goenka, in Hyderabad and they are coming to
who also won the top award in the see this car. They are the fifth genera-
Post War Classic American category tion of that big tree.”
for a 1958 Edsel Villager believed to be In the shadow of the Falaknuma Palace
one of only three surviving examples. – now a suitably royal Taj hotel – the
Besides such rare-as-hen’s-teeth presentation of awards called another
examples of India’s automotive her- grand name to the podium: Yuvraj Kesri
itage, there were a few smaller gems. Singh, the prince of Wankaner, who col-
One of them has been owned by the lected the Fiva Presentation award for a
same family since 1914: a lightweight 1921 Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost originally
Benz its present custodians refer to supplied to his great-grandfather as
as the “connective tissue” between a gift to his 15-year-old son, “who
themselves and their grandfather, who wanted a Rolls-Royce for his birth-
bought the car new from Germany. day”. In 2001, the prince’s family seat
Off the road since the Sixties (when in Gujarat was destroyed in an earth-
the family turned to Studebakers and quake. And yet, miraculously, the car
Classics never die Buicks), the plucky Benz nevertheless survived, and today drives much as it
(above, clockwise remained very much a family heirloom. always did, save for new tires and a
from top left):
An iconic Bentley “Our father was the instigator,” rewiring. In India, it seems, connective
hood ornament; explains Rajesh Somasundaram, of tissue – automotive or otherwise – is
the 1950 Series
62 Cadillac their decision to restore the vehicle. something to behold.
owned by Yuvraj “He is no more, alas, but he said some GQ travelled to Hyderabad with Greaves
Harshwardhan
Singh; Viveck day we should get this going. We never Travel. From £2,695 per person for five
Goenka’s 1958 knew our grandfather. He died in 1940, nights at Taj Falaknuma Palace Hotel,
Edsel Villager;
a restored 1949
but we are a big family in Mathura, and including British Airways flights. 020
Bristol 400 we were big landowners. Now, we are 7487 9111. greavesindia.com
#YOURMOVE
swatch.com
Prices from Monthly payments from £1,275*
£99,990 Representative 5.9% APR
)HZLKVU6]LYÄUJO9HUNL9V]LYTDV6 Vogue

Vehicle Price: £99,990.00. Deposit: £9,990.00. Balance to Finance: £90,000.00. Period: 49 Months. Monthly Instalment: £1,275.00. Final Instalment / GFV (includes £10 option to purchase fee) £44,787.50. Total Amount Payable: £115,977.50.
5.9% APR Representative. Representative example is based upon an annual mileage of 6,000 miles per year. With Personal Contract Purchase (PCP) you have the option at the end of the agreement to return the vehicle and not pay the Final
Payment. If the vehicle is in good condition and has not exceeded the allowed mileage you will have nothing further to pay. Excess mileage charges of 14p per mile for any excess mileage up to 4,999 miles pa and 28p per mile for any excess
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 Quality. Time.

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CORSICA • TRANCOSO
 E D I T E D BY BILL PRINCE

AND GOD
CREATED
BYBLOS
The soul of Saint-Tropez is
a bohemian palace that has
reigned alongside rock’n’roll
royalty for half a century

Though hardly of global or even histori-

cal importance, the marriage of Mick Jagger
and Bianca Pérez-Mora Macias on 12 May
1971 was nevertheless the first media event
of the decade, a coming together of the
counterculture and the beau monde for a day of unbri-
dled bohemianism dressed up as designer debauchery:
from their his’n’hers wedding outfits cut by Edward Sexton
(with hers showing sufficient décolletage to
almost stop the ceremony) to its au courant
setting of Saint-Tropez, a couple of hours along
the coast from Cap d’Antibes, where the Stones
had decamped to record – in fits and starts –
what would become their magnum opus, Exile
On Main St.
By all accounts, Mick and Bianca’s wedding
day proceeded in a similarly chaotic manner,
from the chartered Dan-Air Comet – which had
hurriedly left Gatwick with the likes of Paul
and Linda McCartney, Lord Lichfield, Roger
Vadim, Eric Clapton, Ronnie Wood and Ringo
Starr on board (and the Fleet Street press pack Let’s spend the night
together: Hôtel Byblos
in hot pursuit) – to the trademark collision of where (below and
glamour and excess that accompanied the pair’s left) Mick and Bianca
Jagger celebrated their
attempt to get hitched. Among the highlights: marriage in May 1971
Jagger’s best man, Keith Richards, turned up
wearing black tights and a green combat jacket,
thus causing a fracas with a clueless gendarme;
and the anarchic reception, held in the Café d’Arts, where an ad-hoc
Photographs Eyevine; Getty Images

supergroup, assembled to serenade the now married couple, played on

without Richards, who’d long since fallen asleep.
An unimpressed Bianca would later claim, “My marriage ended
on my wedding day,” but if the Jaggers’ union wasn’t to survive the
Seventies, Hôtel Byblos, the base for their nuptials and the venue for British Airways
the innumerable after-afterparties that followed it, remains unassailable, flies from London
a “third wheel” allowing Saint-Tropez’s reputation as the heart and soul Heathrow,
Gatwick and
of the post-war demimonde to reign supreme, and at 50 – and recently Stansted to Nice
elevated to “Palace” hotel status – a suitably soignée witness to its own from £35 each
myth-making history. way. ba.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 81

 TRAVEL
Hôtel Byblos was created in 1965 by
a Lebanese businessman sufficiently besot-
ted with Brigitte Bardot to re-create Beirut’s
Excelsior Hotel in Saint-Tropez, the better
to woo its most famous beauty. Two years
of construction followed wherein a parcel
of land north of the Place des Lices was
reimagined as its own Provençal village,
complete with narrow alleys, balconies and
just-so embellishments, from the ceramic tiling
to Les Caves Du Roy, set to become the Côte
d’Azur’s most famous nightclub.
The Six-Day War brought the founder’s
ownership of Hôtel Byblos to a swift end,
whereupon custody fell to its present owner,
Groupe Floirat, under whose management the
hotel would become a synonym for the modish
elite who took up season-long residencies in
its 60-odd rooms and whose activities have
kept the Riviera’s paparazzi fully occupied
ever since. Indeed, starting with French music
mogul Eddie Barclay – who introduced Bianca
to the property and subsequently brought
in the jet set – celebrity followed celebrity,
steepling the hotel’s already storied reputa-
tion into a triumphant testimony to the power
of the A list to lead where most others could
only dream of following.
WHAT TO DO IN SAINT-TROPEZ
It may sound middling, but a boat trip aboard
Brigantin 2 is an excellent way to get one’s bearings
and catch a glimpse of the overgrown garden of
Bardot’s seaside home. lebrigantin.com
82 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
French fancy: Les Caves
Du Roy; (below left)
Rivea’s terrace; (below
right) Hamrau Luxury
Junior suite living room
The A list led where
most could only
dream of following
In the Eighties, a sister property was opened
in Courchevel 1850, where Alain Ducasse cut
his culinary teeth before moving to Saint-
Tropez in 2002 to launch his “chameleon
cuisine” concept, Spoon. Unsurprisingly, in
2009 the four-star hotel was granted a fifth,
and in 2012 it joined the exalted ranks of
France’s Palaces – a demarcation for which
there is no direct global translation, but is
easily understood as soon as you arrive at its
discreet entrance on Avenue Paul Signac.
Partly because of its “town within a town”
design (over the years it’s grown to 91
rooms and suites, covering 17,000 sq m) and
Pick out a belt – or better still buy a pair of sandals
– from Rondini, whose single-room workshop sits
100 yards and a million miles away from the
billionaires’ playground in the port. rondini.fr
partly because of those one-of-a-kind, pan-
Mediterranean design touches, the Byblos
conveys an atmosphere like no other resort
hotel – assured without being stuffy, louche
without being laid-back. Sure, the shift in the
culture has been made material over the years –
the disco and champagne bar where the Jaggers’
wedding celebrations were concluded is now
home to the world’s first Sisley spa – but the
spirit of the place remains defiantly on trend.
Largely hidden from prying eyes, the
property is nevertheless in the centre of
a cosmopolitan town that can and does get
horrendously overrun in high season, not that
you’d know it as you relax on your lounger
by the pool. And for food, the latest iteration
of Ducasse’s fine-dining revolution, Rivea,
offers a Mediterranean-rim inspired menu
served under the stars and to a standard that
renders “going out to eat” a personal decision
amounting almost to affectation.
Either way, you’d be foolish to book lunch
at the area’s pre-eminent beach club, Club 55,
without first informing the concierge desk,
who will arrange your transfers and ensure
a seat well away from social Siberia. And for
that nightcap to end all nightcaps? Well, in
recognition of its central role in preserving
a sense of honey-skinned sybaritism, Le
Caves Du Roy celebrates its half-century with
a timely yet tasteful refurbishment.
When to go? Well, fourth-generation Floirat
family member Antoine Chevanne will be
hosting a party later this month to mark the
original opening date of the hotel, but if you
need to check you can safely assume you’re
not invited. Otherwise, find a few days either
side of high-high season and soak up a little
of the anniversary atmosphere, courtesy of
a quiver of collaborating luxury brands, from
Rolls-Royce to Dom Perignon, Goyard to the
aforementioned Sisley. BP
From £440 a night for a double room. 20
Avenue Paul Signac, 83990 Saint-Tropez,
France. +33 4 94 56 68 00. byblos.com
Photographs Alamy
Have a sundowner in the port area. Not for nothing
is the gig as Saint-Tropez’s harbour master
considered one of the most handsomely rewarded
– and therefore hard-won – jobs on the Riviera.
 Meet Milaidhoo,
a new chapter in luxury
Welcome to Milaidhoo Maldives. Our boutique island retreat in
the heart of a UNESCO world biosphere reserve where
luxury and nature live side by side.

Here you’ll step into your own small island story, discovering
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adventure and complete relaxation.

Book your Milaidhoo story at www.milaidhoo.com

OPEN NOVEMBER 2016

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 PR E SE N T S

FOOD & DRINK

AWARDS 2017
With Thanks to John Lewis; Georg Jenson; David Mellor; Karndean Floors

R EVEALED

The best chef, restaurant, bar, pub,

sommelier, interior, overall experience,
front of house, breakthrough, hotel,
restaurateur and innovator in the UK

PHOTOGRAPH BY Mitch Payne FOOD STYLING BY Samantha Dixon

Plus! Lifetime Achievement award-winner... Nobu Matsuhisa

 W
e are in no doubt that our readers’ palates have a GPS
finely tuned enough to seek out a pintxo in a polar ice
cap – but what’s the harm in a little bit of direction?
For three years running, British GQ have scoured this
gloriously well-fed land for the very best in wining
and dining, to show off the picks of the nation’s world-class culinary
bunch. From Mayfair to Marlow by way of Manchester, the GQ Food
& Drink Awards is back for 2017.
Our panel of expert judges – consisting of highly acclaimed chefs,
esteemed writers, an award-winning mixologist and a seasoned eater
or two – have had the near-impossible job of choosing a winner from
eleven hotly contested category shortlists. With the support of our
sublime partners Veuve Clicquot and Belvedere vodka, the night of
25 April saw us celebrate the very best of the British food and bev-
erage industry, and toast our more than deserving winners, present-
ing them with their engraved Waterford Crystal ice buckets of victory.
Set your taste buds to tantalised, this is where you are going to be
eating and drinking over the next 12 months...

Dylan Jones Jo Thornton Florence Knight Ryan Chetiyawardana Felicity Blunt

Since he became Editor Jo Thornton has enjoyed Formerly pastry chef Better known in mixology Literary agent Felicity
of GQ, the magazine has an illustrious career at Raymond Blanc’s circles as Mr Lyan, Ryan Blunt has represented
won 66 awards. Dylan in the luxury drinks Diamond Club, Florence Chetiyawardana has a plethora of cookery
Jones is also the author industry. After 17 years Knight went on to spent three years writers, including Sam
of 20 books, chairman with Moët Hennessy, become head chef wowing Londoners Stern and The Great
of London Fashion Thornton became at the wildly popular with White Lyan and British Bake Off winner
Week Men’s, a director managing director of Polpetto in 2010. Knight Dandelyan’s innovative Frances Quinn. In
of the British Fashion the company’s UK arm is also a columnist for cocktail menus. collaboration with her
Chetiyawardana was Simply the best:
Council and has eaten in 2010, which looks the Sunday Times and husband, Stanley Tucci,
Daniel Morgenthau,
in nearly as many after prestigious brands has authored the named International Blunt has co-written The Merlin Labron-
restaurants as including Belvedere and cookbook One: A Cook Bartender Of The Year at Tucci Table, dedicated Johnson, Stuart
Oliver Peyton. Veuve Clicquot. And Her Cupboard. the 2015 Spirited Awards. to their love of food. Andrew and William
Lander; (inset)
aged Negroni, gin

JUDGES
and tonic, gin sour;
Meet the ten good men and women of GQ's cured Arctic char
with white peaches

THE
expert panel, who lead their fields of food and and elderflowers
at Clipstone
drink, publishing, hospitality and interiors...

Clare Smyth Michael Caines Oliver Peyton Tara Bernerd Matt Hobbs
When Clare Smyth After 21 years at the In addition to judging British designer Tara Matt Hobbs’ first job
ended her successful helm of Devon’s the Great British Menu, Bernerd is a virtuoso was cutting bread in
Photographs Rex; Mitch Payne

tenure as chef patron much-lauded Gidleigh Oliver Peyton is a of luxury interior design. The Ivy in 1994. After
of Restaurant Gordon Park, multi-award restaurateur and Her architectural spending seven years
Ramsay, she did so as winning chef and chairman of hospitality interiors practice Tara rising through the ranks
the first British female entrepreneur Michael group Peyton & Byrne, Bernerd & Partners has at the restaurant, he
chef to hold three Caines is now turning which brings fine dining worked on numerous went on to manage
Michelin stars. Now, the his expertise to the to the clientele of arts international projects Soho House New York,
food world is eagerly transformation of institutions including – including Sixty Soho in Scott’s and Annabel’s,
anticipating the launch Lympstone Manor in The Royal Academy, New York and Belgraves and is now the
of Smyth’s own Devon into a luxury The National Gallery in London – as well as managing director of the
restaurant this year. hotel and restaurant. and The ICA. a superyacht or two. famed Groucho Club.

86 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

Heat rises: The open kitchen

at Clipstone in full swing;
(inset) house pickles

BE ST

RESTAURANT Clipstone

What’s in a name? For Clipstone of Clipstone Street, the successor to the

acclaimed Portland of Great Portland Street, you’d guess little more
than a handy signpost. Clipstone’s understated moniker is, in fact,
a clue to the restaurant’s brilliance. The newest offering from res-
taurateurs William Lander (whose name reveals his filial connec-
tion to Financial Times food critic Nicholas Lander) and Daniel
Morgenthau (formerly of 10 Greek Street) is serving up culinary
excellence with less of a fanfare, more of a softly sung serenade.
Honest and mercifully relaxed, Clipstone is the quiet champion of
the casual dining revolution. Judge Matt Hobbs praised its “sophis-
ticated execution done with charm and minimal fuss”, with more
than a hint of magic sprinkled in the kitchen by executive chef Merlin
Labron-Johnson, who elevates Clipstone’s simple aesthetic to a treat
for foodie souls. Labron-Johnson plays the long game; his passion
for pickling, curing and fermenting makes for a stunning approach
to flavour in his Paris-by-way-of-Tokyo menu. Clipstone’s name
may be unassuming, but it still smells oh so sweet.
5 Clipstone Street, Fitzrovia, London W1. 020 7637 0871.
clipstonerestaurant.co.uk

Runner-up: Hoppers
Also nominated: The Waterside Inn, Restaurant Sat Bains, Ellory

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 87

 BE ST
Winning combination

CHEF
(clockwise from top):
Phil Howard; marinated
ceps and king oyster
mushrooms; the Elystan
Street dining room;
outside the restaurant;
roast cod with curried
cauliflower purée

Phil Howard

Phil Howard isn’t exactly the new kid on

the block. It’s been over 25 years since he
opened The Square on Mayfair’s Bruton
Street, a culinary cornucopia of a restaurant
and the fine dining alma mater of more than
a few esteemed chefs, with Brett Graham,
Adam Byatt and fellow shortlisted nominee
Jun Tanaka among its alumni. As one of the
most respected culinary talents of a generation
– known as “the chef’s chef” among his peers
– you’d expect Howard to be quite happy with
the way things are. Howard, however, isn’t
one for settling.
Last year saw him move on from The Square
and its long-held two Michelin stars, to
pursue a new vision at Elystan Street – and
what a vision it is. It’s a seasonally charged
symphony of ingredient-focused food, a
celebration of what tastes great now,
and as ripe for upheaval as Howard
himself appears to be. Judge Ryan
Chetiyawardana praised him for “not
resting on [his] laurels, challenging
conventions and himself to explore
new, creative avenues”. Howard isn’t
a bright young thing, but to taste his
cutting-edge, progressive and perpetually on-
the-pulse food, you could be easily fooled.
43 Elystan Street, Chelsea, London SW3.
020 7628 5005. elystanstreet.com

Runner-up: Michael O’Hare

Also nominated: Jun Tanaka;
Mark Jarvis; Alex Craciun

88 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

45 Jermyn St
For design enthusiasts, the words art deco are hallowed scripture. Too
often is the aesthetic associated purely with the grandiose ostenta-
tion of the roaring Twenties and not the measured, expertly balanced
approach to design that has elevated its reputation ceaselessly through
the decades. At the recently reopened 45 Jermyn St, the attention to
the latter makes for an effortlessly urbane approach to the former.
“They managed the rarest of feats, they don’t have a bad table,” says
our judge Matt Hobbs. Precision and balance characterise every detail
of Martin Brudnizki’s design, from the vermillion and sage colour palette
to the at once jovial and sophisticated use of space. The result is an
earnest, authentic and endlessly elegant celebration of a golden age.

BE ST
Deep space: The 45 Jermyn Street, St James’s, London SW1. 020 7205 4545. 45jermynst.com
interior of 45
Jermyn St, as designed

INTERIOR
by Martin Brudnizki Runners-up: Blixen, German Gymanasium
Also nominated: Bronte; Pharmacy 2

so admired in London to being “always the

Matthew Mawtus, and beyond. Mawtus’ perfect host”.
Pollen Street Social work is also exceptional
in its own right. Since
8-10 Pollen Street,
Mayfair, London W1S.
taking the reins of 020 7290 7600.
The Social Company is loved serials, however, Pollen Street Social in pollenstreetsocial.com
Photographs James McDonald

getting more popular many will argue that the 2014, the restaurant has
by the day. Jason original is still the best. maintained a reputation Runner-up: Sara Flyckt
Atherton’s collection of At Pollen Street for “flawless service” at Spring

FRONT
charming “Socialites” Social, restaurant according to Michael Also nominated: Paolo
now have friends and manager Matthew Caines, and Mawtus de Tarso and Nicolas
relations across the Mawtus is charged himself has won the Jaouën at Margot;
BE ST
OF HOUSE
globe, with the ninth with upholding the adoration of his David Durban at
London outfit, Hai exceptional standards customers, including Frenchie; Damien
Cenato, having opened that have made judge Dylan Jones who Pepin at Alain Ducasse
this year. As with most Atherton’s restaurants praises his dedication at The Dorchester
 BE ST
BAR Bar Termini
“It’s a kind of jungle, tepid and tranquil, where one
can hide,’’ said Marcello, as he mused over the Eternal
City in La Dolce Vita. At Bar Termini, the temptation
to loiter in this Roman paradiso is just as strong. The
maestros are renowned mixologist Tony Conigliaro
(below) and Marco Arrigo, who holds the fort as head
of quality at coffee brand Illy. The coffee menu is
served short and expertly specialised, while the
cocktail menu oozes vintage Italian glamour. At Bar
Termini, perfectly balanced flavours meet a perfectly
balanced ambience, with judge Tara Bernerd citing
its suitability for “a seductive and rather moody
Italian aperitivo”. Fellini would be proud.
7 Old Compton Street, Soho, London W1D. 07860
945018. bar-termini.com

Runner-up: Neighbourhood
Also nominated: Blue Bar at The Berkeley;
Original Sin; Oriole

I N PA RTN ERS H I P WITH

BE S T BREAKTHROUGH Anglo
Photographs Instagram/@terminisoho

We’d love to tell you
what to expect from
Anglo, but chef/owner
Mark Jarvis has put a
spanner in the works. At
least some evenings it’s
a spanner – when you
go, it may well be a
Screwdriver. Anglo’s
menu (the evening
offering is a seven-
course tasting menu, no honed via a stunning CV, expect, but we do know
exceptions) changes including Le Manoir Aux it will be extraordinary.
almost daily. It’s a hard, Quat’Saisons, Zuma, 30 Cross Street,
fast and ruthless Texture and The Farringdon, London
approach to seasonal Bingham of Richmond. EC1. 020 7430 1503.
food that is charged At Anglo, his first anglorestaurant.com
with creativity. Judge opening, this experience
Florence Knight is finding fulfilment in Runner-up: Som Saa
commends Jarvis for an enlightening take on Also nominated:
his “talented and hard- British gastronomy. We Petit Pois; The Barbary;
working” disposition, can’t tell you what to Frenchie

90 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

Distinguishing features
(from top): Rosewood
London’s Mirror
Room; the grand
marble staircase;
bronze entrance gallery;
Holborn dining room;
manor house suite

BE ST

HOTEL Rosewood London

The towering grandeur of 252 High Holborn began its life as the home
of the Pearl Assurance Company in 1914. Today, the Grade II-listed
Edwardian building is better known as a pearl in the capital’s luxury
diadem. In the four years since its reopening under the Rosewood name,
the hotel has flourished into what judge Dylan Jones describes as “an
oasis of calm and excellence in the heart of the city”, redefining con-
temporary opulence.
Inside the Belle Epoque edifice glistens the redesigned interior cour-
tesy of Tony Chi, whose respectful refurbishment takes the spirit of
turn-of-the-century gentlemanly sophistication and embellishes it with
a modernist exactitude. With The Mirror Room, Holborn Dining Room
and Scarfe’s Bar (with interiors designed by Martin Brudnizki, who also
takes the Best Interior gong this year for 45 Jermyn St) also garnering
praise for their culinary offerings and endlessly alluring ambience, it
appears Rosewood may well have gifted us with a new classic.
252 High Holborn, London WC1. 020 7781 8888. rosewoodhotels.com

Runner-up: Gidleigh Park

Also nominated: The London Edition; No 131; Chewton Glen

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 91

G Partnership

Ben on deck off the

shores of Cloudy Bay

Cloudy Bay’s
famous view since
its founding in 1985

Sauvignon Blanc 2016 75cl

by Cloudy Bay, £24.

THE ESSENCE available at Majestic

OF ADVENTURE
Ben Fogle prepares to explore the natural wilderness that
defines Cloudy Bay – the heart of New Zealand wine country
THE quintessence of New Zealand luxury the wine industry. Now, Cloudy Bay’s island origins out to the water, and the
Photographs by Cloudy Bay/Jack Watson

and pioneering spirit, Cloudy Bay in
Marlborough is one of the country’s most
famous vineyards and the producer of
exceptional premium wine.
Located at the top of the South Island,
Cloudy Bay’s potential as a prime spot for
a vineyard was identified by founder
David Hohnen back in 1985, and he boldly
invested in the best land of the region.
Cloudy Bay soon secured New Zealand’s
status as an international heavy hitter in
reputation as a symbol of adventure (it
was named by Captain James Cook in
1770, after all) has drawn travel presenter
Ben Fogle to its shores. Made in
Marlborough, Cloudy Bay helped New
Zealand achieve global recognition as a
wine-producing country by harnessing
the best of the natural environment.
This year the pioneering and luxury
spirit at the heart of these now world-
famous wines is reflected from their
sense of serenity and comradery inspired
by sailing. Ben’s explorations at the
winery were just the beginning of an
adventure from one side of the world to
the other and he will compete in the
Round the Island Race™ in association
with Cloudy Bay on 1 July. On deck with
glass in hand, Ben looks forward to the
story unfolding: “What better way to
start this journey?”
cloudybay.co.nz
 FOOD &
FOOD & DRINK
DRINK AWARDS
AWARDS

OVERALL
Brawn and brain:
Heston Blumenthal

BE S T at The Fat Duck

EXPERIENCE
The Fat Duck

If you’ve ever been served a meringue on a levitating pillow with a fur-

handled spoon, or fry-up-flavoured cereal from a “Variety Pack” (washed
down with rabbit tea, of course) anywhere other than The Fat Duck,
answers on a postcard please. “I’ve really never had a more mindblowing
dinner in terms of experience and theatre,” says judge Clare Smyth. The
Fat Duck is more than just food; it is a playhouse for the surreal nature
of food’s emotional power, a cabinet of culinary curiosities.
Since reopening in 2016, Heston Blumenthal has continued to astound
his diners, this time with an even more pleasingly refined narrative, skip-
ping with gastronomic glee through the childhood memory of a perfect
day. The truly unparalleled barminess of Blumenthal’s magnificent crea-
tions may have been delighting diners for over two decades, but they still
hold the power to propel a grown man into shamelessly boyish wonder.
1 High Street, Bray SL6 2AQ. 01628 580333. thefatduck.co.uk

Runner-up: Soho Farmhouse

Also nominated: Hakkasan Mayfair; Mr Fogg’s Tavern; The Man
Behind The Curtain

Sam & Eddie Hart

London’s food scene is currently feeling the

warmth of a bit of brotherly love, supplied
with vigour by sibling restaurateurs Sam and
Eddie Hart. In the years since Barrafina blazed
a trail for high-end Spanish tapas (with a little
help from previous GQ Food & Drink Award
winner, chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho), The

BE S T Hart Brothers have turned their talents to

RESTAURATEUR
establishments plentiful and varied.
Barrafina now boasts three incarnations –
one nestled in the lower quarters of revamped
Soho institution Quo Vadis. This year, the
brothers have taken on the taco at El Pastor
in Borough Market. Controversially influential
Photograph Nick Wilson Grooming Alice Howlett

but ultimately invigorating, their “no reserva-

tions” policy has galvanised the casual dining
scene with astonishing quality and joie de vivre.
Quo Vadis translates as, “where are you going?”
– surely to the next Hart Brothers restaurant.
26-29 Dean Street, Soho, London W1. 01628
580333. quovadissoho.co.uk

Runners-up: William Lander and

Brotherly love (clockwise from
top left): Barrafina; El Pastor;
Quo Vadis; Eddie and Sam Hart
Daniel Morgenthau
Also nominated: Karam, Jyotin and
Sunaina Sethi; Jason Atherton; Kavi
and Shamil Thakrar

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 93

 FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

BE ST

PUBThe Hand And Flowers

Few menus incite such a menagerie of invol-

untary, pleasure-betraying noises as do those
at The Hand & Flowers. Any traces of self-
restraint are left firmly on the doorstep of Tom
and Beth Kerridge’s two Michelin-starred
pub – when the Sunday lunch menu
announces the proximity of a “loin
of Cotswold venison with boudin
noir purée, salt-baked celer-
iac, ragout pie and cow puff”,
there is little else left to be done.
Reductive it is not.
Tom Kerridge’s food is palpably
bursting with the rambunctious joy
of eating. Pretention is nowhere to
be found, but pretty much everything
you could possibly want to eat is. This
isn’t, however, at the expense of the excellence
that has procured Kerridge those prestigious
stars. “Pricing, service, ingredients and execu-
tion – a symphony of perfection,” says Felicity
Blunt. Kerridge was the first to double the
stakes in the Michelin-starred pub game, and
his hand is still just as good as ever.
126 West Street, Marlow SL7 2BP. 01628
482277. thehandandflowers.co.uk

Runner-up: The Star Inn at Harome

Also nominated: The Sands End; The Pipe
And Glass Inn; The Canny Man’s

the helm of a progressive

Leah Kirkland, Trinity approach to wine in
a fine dining context,
Trinity has become a full-
If you believe that the whole team are bodied heavyweight.
knowledge is power, encouraged to educate 4 The Polygon,
then the team at Trinity themselves to an Clapham, London
could knock most out exceptional level. SW4. 020 7622 1199.
the park when it comes Harmony is the name trinityrestaurant.co.uk
to oenology. The of the game. Kirkland
restaurant’s general has been working with Runner-up: Laurent
manager, Leah Kirkland, chef Adam Byatt for Richet at Restaurant
is the woman more than eleven years, Sat Bains
responsible. Kirkland and it shows in the Also nominated:
doesn’t call herself a “superbly” matched Philippe Moranges at

SOMMELIER
sommelier, but her vast wine flight offering, Park Chinois; Fred
knowledge of wine is highly commended by Brugues at Sketch;
evident at Michelin- our judge Michael Christopher Lecoufle
BE ST starred Trinity, where Caines. With Kirkland at at Les 110 De Taillevent

94 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 G Partnership

Extra Brut Extra Old

by Veuve Clicquot, £79.
veuveclicquot.com

MIXING
THE BEST
IN HISTORY
Veuve Clicquot looks to
its heritage to create
Extra Brut Extra Old, a
new premium cuvée
IT’S no small feat for a renowned
champagne House to add an entirely new
wine to its portfolio, but Veuve Clicquot
has done precisely that, drawing on its
Double aged and considerable legacy to pioneer a new
with a very low premium cuvée.
dosage, Extra Brut
Extra Old is Veuve Blended exclusively from the House’s
Clicquot mixing the very finest reserve wines, spanning
best of history.
1988-2010, Veuve Clicquot Extra Brut
Extra Old is the ultimate expression of its
famous Yellow Label Brut. Cellar master
Dominique Demarville took this essence as
his starting point and created an entirely
new experience, arriving at an ultra-
premium wine, double-aged and featuring
a very low dosage.
This is a serious bottle. Each wine
in its blend has been aged for at least three
years, on the lees, true to Veuve Clicquot
tradition. The result is notable for its glints
of gold and remarkably fine bubbles, a
nose rich in ripe stone fruits yielding to a
smooth texture on the palate, followed by
a long, salty finish.
This most luxurious of party
aperitifs is a winner with food, too.
To showcase Extra Brut Extra Old’s ability
to adapt to different food, Veuve Clicquot
has teamed up with Lee Westcott, at the
celebrated Typing Room in London’s
Bethnal Green. He’s created a tasting menu
specifically to pair with the champagne.
What better way to toast a new chapter in
Veuve Clicquot’s history?
veuveclicquot.com
‘I always try to be
at the front, even
by one millimetre’

Photographs Getty Images Grooming Chloe Botting

Nobu Matsuhisa
photographed for British
GQ by Benjamin McMahon
at Nobu, Berkeley Square,
26 March 2017

LIFETIME
ACHIEVEMENT
Nobu Matsuhisa
I
t has been 30 years since Nobu Matsuhisa
opened his eponymous Beverly Hills res-
taurant. Since then, his unique blend
of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine has
conquered Los Angeles, and then the
world. The chef proprietor now owns 32
restaurants across five continents, popular-
ising the flavours of his native Japan and the
Peruvian capital, Lima, and pioneering the
international experimentation that has ener-
gised culinary creativity across the globe.
Nobu took sushi and made it sexy, his health-
conscious fine dining wooing a decidedly
A-list fanbase in the process, including the
likes of his business partner, Robert De Niro,
Ed Sheeran and Boris Becker. At 68 he shows
no signs of slowing down, opening his fifth
Nobu Hotel in Shoreditch, London, this year.
A name synonymous with quality and glamour
the world over, Nobu Matsuhisa is a more than
worthy winner of the Lifetime Achievement
award. We spoke to him about how he
did it all...
Raw power (clockwise from above): Nobu
Matsuhisa in his Californian restaurant,
Matsuhisa, in 1988; with business partner
Robert De Niro and actor Christopher Lambert
in Paris, 2001; Ed Sheeran joins him for the
opening of the Nobu Hotel in Las Vegas, 2013
When you started your career, did you ever
think Japanese food would be as interna-
tionally popular as it is?
I’m not sure if I knew how popular it would be,
but I certainly hoped! It’s so fresh and healthy,
there’s no reason why not, and because of
the health benefits I think we will see it
continue to evolve.
You were one of the first
to bring Peruvian cooking
to global attention –
what about it captured
your imagination?
When I went to Peru, I dis-
covered that Lima was the
perfect town for a sushi
chef. The country supports
one of the world’s most boun-
tiful sources of seafood. If Peru had
a national dish, it would probably be ceviche.
This raw fish, very like sashimi, really inspired
my signature style.
You’ve spoken about your early career set-
backs (a failed business partnership in Peru,
a fire at his Alaska restaurant). What made
you persevere?
FOOD & DRINK AWARDS
My family was what helped me to come back
from the edge. I also learned to have patience
and to never give up. I always try to be at the
front, even by one millimetre, because if I stop
trying, then why keep the business?
What have you learnt from your business
partner, Robert De Niro?
Robert has always championed my
food. Beyond business, we share
a strong, long-standing friend-
ship, which allows me to learn
from Robert all the time. His
ideas are unique and inspir-
ing – it was through him that
the idea for Nobu Hotels
came about.
Sushi is such an ingredient-
focused cuisine – how do you
maintain that level of quality on
a global scale?
The quality of the fish is the most important
consideration, wherever you are. At my first
restaurant, the food cost was 50 per cent. I
chose all the fish myself daily. Although I didn’t
make any money, it meant I got a reputation
for quality – something I’ll never compromise.
We have restaurants all over the world and we
use the freshest local ingredients. There’s no
central buying policy and the menus reflect
the best ingredients available in each country.
We grow our own rice in California and will go
to such lengths to maintain quality.
You’re now opening Nobu Hotels, including
one in Shoreditch, London. What are the
values you’ve brought to your hotels from
your restaurants?
The last couple of years have been exciting
because I have seen my values transcend the
dining room. The Nobu experience remains
true in whichever form. Detail is key. I spend
a lot of time in hotels, travelling ten months in
each year, so I know what requires attention.
I have learnt that it takes time to build a team
strong enough to deal with the challenges, but
that the time I invest in training is invaluable.
Your restaurants have featured in lyrics by
Kanye West, Drake and Future – did you
ever expect to be a part of hip-hop lexicon?
Never! However, I have learnt to expect
the unexpected.
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 97
 FOOD & DRINK AWARDS

Cure-all: Ceviche’s
exterior in Soho;
(below) Martin
Morales; (right) sea
bass with sweet
potato and red onion

I N PA RTN ERS H I P WITH

THE INNOVATOR AWARD

Martin Morales
Everything about Martin Morales screams “Tono!” Baffled? Then you’ll
need to brush up on your Andean slang. Splashing colour liberally
across the UK food scene, Morales is the man at the beating heart of
this vibrant movement. After spending two decades making and playing
music, Peruvian-born Morales’ passion for food needed an outlet, and

Written and compiled by Ailis Brennan Art Director John Hitchcox

in 2012 he opened his first restaurant, Ceviche, (named after the zingy
seafood dish of his native Peru) in Soho to jubilant acclaim. Since then,
Ceviche has been joined by younger siblings Andina and Casita Andina
and welcomed a twin restaurant in Old Street.
Morales’ outstanding contribution to the nation’s increasingly global
palate made him the perfect candidate for our inaugural Innovator
Award, chosen by Veuve Clicquot. Managing director of Moët Hennessy
UK Jo Thornton explained their choice: “Pioneering not only Peruvian Race against lime:
food but also Peruvian culture in London, Morales has demonstrated Ceviche clásico
with sweet potato
strong values of determination, entrepreneurship and creativity, all cream and plantain
of which were championed by Veuve Clicquot’s founder, Madame chifles; (above) the
interior of Ceviche
Clicquot. In honour of such an achievement, we proudly attrib-
ute him the Veuve Clicquot Innovator Award.” Pour another Pisco
Sour, because the Peruvian party won’t be ending any time soon.
17 Frith Street, London W1. 020 7292 2040. cevicheuk.com

Also nominated: Zoë and Layo Paskin, Uri Navon and Assaf Granit;
Rohit Ghai; Xavier Rousset

98 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 THE MOST WANTED:
A cable-knit cotton sweater is
a summer essential and Polo
Ralph Lauren’s chambray-effect
version conjures up scenes of
lazy days spent in the Hamptons,
Haverfordwest and Hampshire.
EDITED BY ROBERT JOHNSTON
Styling Tony Cook Grooming Charley McEwen Model Dylan Williams at Elite

Photograph by Florian Renner

Jumper, £249. Shorts, £109. Belt, £59. All by Polo Ralph Lauren. ralphlauren.co.uk. Sunglasses by Moncler, £170. moncler.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 101

 Bag by Louis Vuitton,
Jacket, £1,670. Jumper,
£1,110. louisvuitton.com
£665. Shirt, £455. Trousers,
£545. Sunglasses, £350.
Whistle bag charm and key
holder, £370. All by Louis
Vuitton. louisvuitton.com

LOUIS
VUITTON:
The prestigious French
fashion house salutes
the America’s Cup
by unveiling a winning
capsule collection.

riginally awarded in 1851, the America’s Cup is one of the

O
  oldest and most stylish sporting events in the world, so
it isn’t a surprise that Louis Vuitton should be involved
with the event. And this year it is celebrating 2017’s race,
happening in Bermuda across May and June, with an
exclusive men’s capsule collection. With a suitably nautical twist, it
includes chunky knitwear, cargo shorts – and, of course, swimwear. There
is also a range of bags featuring
the house’s signature Damier print
in navy and blue. The collection is
available in selected Louis Vuitton
stores worldwide. RJ

Left: Backpack, £1,630.

Above, from top: Pouch,
£550. Wallet, £510. Bomber jacket,
Card holder, 265. Right: £255. Trousers, £119.
Jacket, £1,390. Shorts, 5. Trousers, £119.
£600. Trainers, £590. Both by Lou Dalton x
Sunglasses, £350. Whistle Jaeger. jaeger.co.uk
bag charm and key holder,
Idunt, id qui ut optas
£370. Bag, £1,490. All by
et autendu cienimo
Louis Vuitton.
lumenim siminciendel
louisvuitton.com

102 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 Trainers by Valentino, £380.
At matchesfashion.com

Trainers by Geox, £120.

Trainers by Giuseppe geox.com
Zanotti, £715.
giuseppezanottidesign.com

ALL-PRO TRAINERS:
From the working week to wild weekends, these casual classics are
sneaking up on the brogue as the go-to shoe. We pick seven of the best.

Trainers by Bottega Veneta, £500.

At matchesfashion.com
Trainers by Timberland, £80.
timberland.co.uk

Trainers by Givenchy, £350.

At Browns. brownsfashion.com

Trainers by Clarks, £80.

clarks.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPH BY Chris Turner

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 103


LUXURY:
rand extension – just the words
B
  make me bridle. So, had someone
told me six years ago that Drake’s
would be opening shops selling
suits, shoes, shirts and socks,
I would have sneered. Happily, no one told me;
it just happened and I found myself liking it.
Drake’s was, and to a degree still is, a tie
factory. In the 40 years it has been around it
has been a supplier of neckwear to everyone
from the late Doug Hayward to Ralph Lauren
Purple Label. The factory on Haberdasher
Street near Spitalfields, where you can go
and watch a tie being made before your eyes,
still cranks out about 100,000 ties a year in
almost any fabric: some of the complicated
multi-textured grenadines are quite startling
examples of the silk weaver’s work. But tie
wearing is not what it used to be and so, six
years ago, Drake’s dipped a toe in the world
of own-brand retail and opened a little shop
in Mayfair.
Most of the shop floor was taken up with
a large, venerable, Circus Maximus-shaped
mahogany display unit with plenty of drawers
and a glass top under which were displayed a
few fetching pochettes and ties. If it reminded
me – in a good way – of a museum, that was
because in a previous life this handsome
cabinet had been home to the Natural History
Museum’s collection of starfish.
Over the months, other items of clothing
made their appearance. But it was not until
about three years later, when the shop
104 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
‘Drake’s has built
an aesthetic that
is in tune with our
times and yet
subtly unique’
Drake’s journey from craft-based brand producing
bespoke neckwear to an innovative design house is
testament to the power of family ties. BY Nick Foulkes
produced extremely good Fair Isle sweaters, that I realised
something was going on.
What has really impressed me is that Drake’s has built an
aesthetic that is in tune with our times and yet subtly unique. You
can always tell a Drake’s man, he’s the one in the unlined checked
Harris Tweed jacket, button-down denim shirt, noticeable socks,
stout shoes and, of course, tie. There’s a nod to hipster culture, but
it is quite preppy too; it would work well in a Tokyo concept shop.
I tend to be formal in my approach to tie-wearing, but
Drake’s loosens me up and creates the sort of sartorial safe
space in which I can explore the idea of wearing an orange
linen tie printed with polo players under a snuff coloured
suede blouson.
The reason it all works is creative director Michael Hill, the
quietly spoken ginger-haired man in – yes – the unstructured
Harris Tweed, chambray shirt, knitted tie and cordovan penny
loafers. Hill followed his father into the business, who worked
with the founder Michael Drake. He loves Alden shoes for
their unreconstructed New Englishness; goes to Shetland,
Donegal, Northern Ireland and Yorkshire to see his tweeds
woven; knows the silk mills of Como almost as well as his
own factory; goes to Dundee for his waxed cotton; scours
Macclesfield for printed silks; has found a superb little sock
maker just outside Rome. The denim, incidentally, comes
all the way from Walthamstow.
Just how far Drake’s has moved on from being a tie and
handkerchief maker is demonstrated by the shop having
a refit. The Circus Maximus Natural History Museum
cabinet has gone in order to make space for more tailor- Ties by Drake’s, £125
ing. I express sadness and tell Hill that I mourn its passing. each. drakes.com
Happily it turns out that I need not go into mourning. By Snip tuck (above, from
the time this article is published it will be crossing the left): Cutting cloth at
Drake’s of Haberdasher
Atlantic to New York where it will be installed at the new Street; the Clifford
Drake’s store opening on Crosby Street, SoHo in June. Street store in Mayfair
 taly has always been famous
I  for food and architecture, and
according to Elisabetta Canali
these two things influence both
her family’s tailoring business
and Italian style in general.
Thanks to the ubiquity of pasta and
pizza, you might not immediately
think of Italian food as modern, but
it underpins much of what we know
today as contemporary cuisine. And
not only in Italy itself, thanks to
chefs and restaurants such as Alice
Waters at Chez Panisse in California
and Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers at The
River Café in London, who espoused
the Italian philosophy of taking the
finest ingredients and cooking them
as simply as possible. It’s a philosophy
Canali herself shares. “As an Italian,”
she says, “I think that to create a
marvellous meal you have to start with
the best and the freshest ingredients
in the market. Even a simple pasta
course served with chopped fresh
CANALI: From high-flying architecture to classical cuisine,
fashion’s master of quiet elegance takes its cue from two pillars of Italian culture
to inspire a sublime contribution to the third. PHOTOGRAPHS BY Jake Walters STYLING BY Tom Stubbs
GQ Selects:
Upgrade your everyday
essentials with these
Canali accessories.
Bag, £580. Belt, £150. Key ring £70.
All by Canali. canali.com,
106 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
Elisabetta ripe tomatoes, basil and good olive
Canali is
of the
opinion
that
even the
classics
oil can be sublime. The ingredients of
great tailoring are equally simple –
craftsmanship, fit and beautiful fabrics.”
Like a classic risotto Milanese, the
recipe isn’t complicated but everything
is carefully considered.
Canali was founded in 1934 in
can be Triuggio, a small town around 15 miles
improved north of Milan, by brothers Giacomo and
Giovanni Canali. Today it is run by the
third generation and has grown to be one
of the biggest names in Italian fashion,
employing well over 1,000 tailors in
factories across the country. Canali’s
proud heritage does not mean that it’s
not forward looking. “Every year we
work closely with the mills in Biella [the
heart of the Italian textiles industry] to
produce amazing new blends of fabrics,”
she explains. She is firmly of the opinion
that even the classics can be improved
– much like Milan’s favourite cock-
tail, the Negroni Sbagliato, which came
about when a Milanese barman was
making a Negroni (the drink invented
in Florence) and mistakenly added pro-
secco instead of gin.
After nine years of holding fashion
shows during Milan menswear weeks,
this January Canali decided to hold a
presentation instead, believing that to
understand the brand you have to get up
close. “It is more difficult to hold a pres-
entation than a show,” she claims. “You
have to be much more substantial. With
a runway show the music and the spec-
tacle itself can create a mood and deliver
a message, but with a presentation you
have to involve people so much more.
The experience is much more cerebral.”
anali’s point about the beauty
C
that surrounds Italians in
stunning architecture is
not necessarily concerned
only with heritage. When
you think of Milan it’s not only the
dramatic Gothic cathedral but also
the Fifties Pirelli Tower by Gio Ponti,
widely considered as one of the most
beautiful skyscrapers ever built. Canali’s
headquarters, in the newly redeveloped
Porto Nuova district, is strikingly
modern. Its roof terrace overlooks the
dramatically curved new Unicredit
Tower – the tallest in Italy – and the
BoscoSTYLING
VerticaleBY
(“Vertical
XxxxxForest”),
Xxxxx a pair
of residential towers opened in 2014
that boast nearly 1,000 trees on their
façades and have had an extraordinary
influence on theories of architecture
(and ecology) worldwide.
Canali’s office itself is an exercise in
contemporary elegance. Indeed, go to
any Italian fashion industry office and
you immediately see that the Italians
understand the point of style from the
ground up. Everything is considered,
from the lighting on the reception desk
to the furniture in the meeting room.
Even the lavatories will be perfect –
often with an elegant Phalaenopsis
orchid by the sink. The only thing
Italians don’t seem to do well is light
switches, but that is another story.
The secret to Canali’s success is also
down to its relationship with its custom-
ers. One of its proudest moments came in
November 2008 when Barack Obama was
photographed waving to supporters in his
home town of Chicago. His suit jacket fell
open and there was the label proclaiming
Canali. It’s publicity most brand owners
would sell their grandmothers for, but
not Canali, who treated the incident with
admirable discretion.
“We treat all our customers the same,”
she says, “whether presidents or play-
boys. Each one is equally important to
us and the consumer is central to our
strategy – and to our universe – whether
he is buying ready-to-wear or made-
to-measure. Every man is looking for
something special, so if they are going to
choose Canali we have to ensure we are
unique. So, while our values remain the
same, the way we make pieces changes.
We are determined to succeed and have
a passion for quality, beauty and excel-
lence – it is a dedication to ‘doing’ and a
passion for ‘doing well’.” RJ
 Canali’s office is an
exercise in elegance.
Italians understand
the point of style
from the ground up
Blazer, £810. Trousers,
£300. Both by Canali.
canali.com. Vest by
Sunspel, £30. sunspel.
com. Shoes by Santoni,
£670. santonishoes.com.
Hat by Borsalino, £145. At
matchesfashion.com.
Watch by Cartier,
£13,400. cartier.co.uk.
Vespa, £3,599. At In Moto.
inmoto.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 107

 ‘Every man is looking
for something special,
so if they choose us we
have to be unique’
Shirt, £180. Trousers, £350. Both
by Canali. canali.com. Shoes by
Santoni, £770. santonishoes.com.
Belt, stylist’s own. Watch by
Cartier, £12,500. cartier.co.uk.
Vespa, £3,599. At In Moto.
inmoto.com

108 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 Jacket, £2,820.
Trousers, £670. Both
by Canali. canali.com.
T-shirt by Sunspel,
£70. sunspel.com

Jumper, £190. Shorts,

£380. Both by Canali.
canali.com. Shoes by
Harrys Of London, £425.
harrysoflondon.com.
Hat by Borsalino, £180.
At matchesfashion.com.
Hair and grooming Joe Mills for Joe & Co Soho using Kevin Murphy Photography assistants Daniel Cope Styling assistant Alicia Ellis; Connor

Suitcase, stylist’s own

Fitzgerald-Bond Grooming assistant Fenn Krauss Model Matt D at Storm With thanks to the official Piaggio Group retailer, In Moto Ltd

Blazer, £880. Polo shirt, £250. Trousers, £310.

Trousers, £310. Both Both by Canali. canali.com.
by Canali. canali.com. Watch by Cartier, £12,500.
Vest by Sunspel, £30. cartier.co.uk. Camera by
sunspel.com. Shoes Polaroid, £360. At Impossible.
by Santoni, £670. impossible-project.com
santonishoes.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 109

 GROOMING: Dry shampoo
If you are attending one
of this summer’s festivals,
4 The perks are
two-fold, this
oil-absorbing formula
removes build-up and
don’t waste time queuing odour. Your hair can
be at its best in just
for a dodgy shower. Here’s one spray.
Dry shampoo by
how to wash with minimum Moroccan Oil, £15.
moroccanoil.com
effort, maximum effect.
EDITED BY Carlotta Constant

Hair product

1 
Dry shower gel
Yes, dry shower gel
is now a thing. This
antibacterial body wash
6  Massage softly
into hair to give a
texturised, non-greasy
look. It’s light enough
gently removes dead skin
to re-use without having
cells and body odour in
to wash hair.
one quick session.
Surf Spray by Bumble
DryBath Gel by Headboy
And Bumble, £22.
Industries, £27.
bumbleandbumble.co.uk
headboy.org Lip balm

3 Lips are extremely

sensitive and
Face mist
susceptible to chapping
– a common result of
a hangover. Keeping
them hydrated can
5 As well as getting
rid of last night’s
grime, it will help
also keep your breath reduce any signs of
fresh for longer. inflammation and
redness. Use before
Vitamin Lipsaver by moisturising for
Molton Brown, £12. peak freshness.
moltonbrown.co.uk
Beard
Hydra-Density Mist
by Hylamide, £15. At
thegroomingclinic.com 7 trimmer
If you must trim
while out in the sticks,
Hand sanitiser this duel-sided beard

2 Sanitiser gels usually smell of hospital

wards, but this one has an enjoyable whiff
of a sea breeze and kills 99 per cent of germs.
trimmer absorbs
cut-off hairs during
use. No mess,
no stress. CC
Very handy indeed.
Hand cleansing gel by Merci Handy, £2. Series 7000 vacuum
mercihandy.com beard trimmer
by Philips, £80.
philips.co.uk
Photographs Getty Images; Jody Todd

Play the field: Stand

out in the crowd at
festivals home and
abroad, such as
California’s Coachella

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 111

 Top, £95. Shorts,
£40. Both by Original
Penguin. original
penguin.co.uk
O R I G I N A L
P E N G U I N
The retro-sports trend is one of this
summer’s coolest looks. A GQ favourite is
the latest capsule collection from Original
Penguin. The team there has scoured its
archive and produced a range of vintage,
bold and colourful pieces that are sure to
get you noticed. RJ originalpenguin.co.uk
The Massimo Dutti “Soft”
collection is back for a second
season. This sports-luxe take on
classics includes super-soft denim shirts,
Bermuda shorts and technical fabric
reversible jackets. We particularly love
this butter-soft leather backpack in
petrol blue, which has enough pockets
to keep everything safe. RJ
Backpack by Massimo Dutti,
£80. massimodutti.com
JIM
CHAPMAN:
Embrace the times with
wristwear that balances
brains and beauty.
y wife bought me a beauti-
M ful IWC Portuguese for my
birthday a few years ago and
1
it is my pride and joy, which
means it takes a seriously
stylish piece of wrist-tech to impress me. In
fact, I was reluctant to give smartwatches a
go as, in my experience, they vary from very Gear S3 Frontier by
Samsung, £349.
good to face-for-radio ugly. However, my samsung.com
opinion about techy timepieces changed when
I found Samsung’s Gear S3.
I guess I’m the same as most men, in that
a smartwatch can have all the accoutrements
we’re accustomed to in our tech these days
but, first and foremost, it must look good. The
Gear S3 comes in two styles, both of which
meet this criterion. The Classic is sophisticated
and comes with a leather strap, while the
Frontier is altogether more rugged. Seeing as
my main use for this tech is fitness – and my
IWC fits the bill when it comes to refinement
– the Frontier is my winner.
‘A smartwatch can have
all the tech you want,
but it must look good’
I train most days and having a watch that
measures my heart rate means that I can
burn the most fat possible. Before this, when
running I would hold my phone in my hand
so I could control my music, but now I can
store 4GB of songs within the watch itself
and connect my Bluetooth headphones, all the
while using the GPS system to track my route,
steps, speed and the calories I’m burning.
Portugieser
Automatic by IWC,
£19,450. iwc.com
2
I never thought I would use the barometer
and altimeter – but then I found myself up a
mountain with a snowboard attached to my
feet and kept boring my friend with measures
of how high we were and how thin the air was.
To be honest, the fact that it’s water resistant
also helped because I fell quite a lot.
This watch isn’t just useful when I’m on
a snowy peak or at the gym. I was in central
London during a tube strike the other day,
3
so I downloaded the Uber app straight to the
watch. I've added my bank details so that to
pay for something I just hold my wrist near
the card machine. And I can actually answer
calls from the watch – it's surprisingly clear, Gear S3 Classic
by Samsung, £349.
although you do get some strange looks. samsung.com
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 113
 New directions: On the set of
the short film shot by Prague
Film School for Films Of City
Frames; (inset) Dev Patel
with Roberta Armani

The designer’s
wardrobe for
American Gigolo is
one of menswear’s
seminal moments

ARMANI
EYEWEAR:
The Italian fashion empire’s latest
lenses celebrate its long-standing
commitment to the style and
glamour of film. BY Grace Gilfeather

iorgio Armani’s

G
  professional
love affair with
cinema began
during his time
with Italian designer Nino
Cerruti, with whom he
worked in the mid-Sixties.
Cerruti was one of the first
major designers to seize
the opportunity to dress Above: Sunglasses, £202.
Right: Sunglasses, £180.
big Hollywood stars, including Julia Roberts and Jack Both by Giorgio Armani.
Nicholson, both on and off the screen. But since Armani At David Clulow.
davidclulow.com
founded his own fashion company 42 years ago, he has
firmly established himself as the film star’s tailor. His ward-
robe for Richard Gere in American Gigolo is one of
menswear’s seminal moments and today the super-
brand is synonymous with the silver screen.
In the past three years, Armani has reinforced
his commitment to film by supporting young
filmmakers in a new initiative called Films Of City
Frames, spearheaded by Brit actor and Lion star
Dev Patel. In this, five international student film-
makers are selected and asked to produce a short,
centred around a common thread – the new eyewear
collection. The premiere was held at the South By
Southwest festival in Austin, Texas, earlier this
Sunglasses by Giorgio Armani, £202.
year and, naturally, Armani frames were out in At David Clulow. davidclulow.com
full force on the red carpet.

114 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 HOW TO WEAR:

PINK
From the design house
heavy-hitters to streetwear
super-brands, this season no
colour is trending harder for
men than pale, sorbet-like
pink... and just in time
for ice-cream weather.
Jacket by Albam, £159.
albamclothing.com

Jumper by Stone Island, £185.

stoneisland.co.uk

Shirt by Diesel, £90.

diesel.com
Photographs Roger Kisby; Florian Renner; Roger Stillman Stylist Tony Cook

Shorts by Burberry, £145.

At Mr Porter. mrporter.com
Grooming Charley McEwen Model Danny Blake at D1 Models

The key to getting pastel right is to

Trainers by Stella McCartney, £365.
stellamccartney.com
steer clear of a colour explosion and
instead swirl a single piece in the
shade with black-and-white or
pale-blue denim. Sweet.
Jacket by Gieves & Hawkes, £595.
gievesandhawkes.com. T-shirt by
Dolce & Gabbana, £125. At Mr Porter.
mrporter.com. Trousers by Axel Arigato,
£125. axelarigato.com. Trainers by Hugo
Boss, £240. hugoboss.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 115

 STREET LIFE: EDITED BY Carlotta Constant

From camo to cashmere and boiler suits

to block colours, the strongest style from
Tokyo Fashion Week SS17.

Hiyadam, 20
Occupation: Rapper Aizawl, 19
Instagram: @hiyadam Occupation: Model
Favourite item of Instagram: @soup.zc
clothing: “Bape clothing is always a winner. Favourite item of clothing: “Sunglasses go with
The camo print of this jacket gets everything. I always have a pair on me.”
regular compliments.” Get the look: Sunglasses by Max Pittion, £350.
Get the look: Jacket by Bape, £477. bape.com At eyeconomyclub.com

Pan Wrinkle, 21
Occupation: Blogger
Instagram: @nakedrascal
Favourite item of clothing: “Lightweight rollnecks.
This one is cashmere so it’s extremely soft.”
Get the look: Rollneck by Hardy Amies, £195.
At mrporter.com

Hayato Kano, 19 Yugo Jacques, 20 Satoshi Morinoto, 31

Occupation: Student
Instagram: @hayato_kanno_
Favourite item of clothing: “Boiler suits are so
much fun to wear – more men should try them.”
Get the look: Boiler suit by Topman, £65.
topman.com
Occupation: Model
Instagram: @yugoj
Favourite item of clothing: “Plain block-coloured
hats and my custom-made jackets.”
Get the look: Hat by Polo Ralph Lauren, £25.
At Selfridges. selfridges.com
Occupation: Professor
Instagram: @saatoopp
Favourite item of clothing: “Bright-coloured
clothing mixed with a monochrome look.”
Get the look: Jumper by John Smedley, £145.
johnsmedley.com

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Matthew Sperzel

116 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 CLOTHSURGEON:
When streetwear meets Savile Row,
Track top, £295. there will be great things in store.
Track pants,
£175. Both by
f you are looking for the sweet spot in contem-

I 
Clothsurgeon.
clothsurgeon.com porary menswear, it lies somewhere between the
Far right: Jacket, high-end experience offered by the best tailoring
£625. T-shirt, and the style savvy of streetwear. And right now this
£95. Both by
Clothsurgeon. is a space occupied by London label Clothsurgeon – a favourite
clothsurgeon.com brand of A$AP Rocky, Drake and Lewis Hamilton.
The man behind Clothsurgeon is Rav Matharu (above), who founded
the label five years ago. Originally a professional footballer – he played
for Leeds United until he was 21 – he started his fashion career at
House Of Billiam, a tailoring company in east London that specialises
in bespoke varsity jackets, before setting up on his own. “The unique
thing about Clothsurgeon compared to any other streetwear brand,” he
says , “is its bespoke service. We define this
as ‘streetwear meets Savile Row’ – the same
craft, quality and experience you would expect
when having a suit made on Savile Row, but
for streetwear.”
His mantra is “make what you want”, and
customers are encouraged to envision any-
thing they desire. “We guide them through the
process, but it’s up to them what they create.”
Matharu also creates a series of seasonless
collections for Clothsurgeon every year. “They
are a way of introducing the brand, offering an
off-the-peg piece only available through our
e-commerce site. This allows us to showcase
the brand and its craftsmanship.”
So what are you waiting for? Being street has
never been so civilised. RJ clothsurgeon.com

VALENTINO: The legendary label’s latest collection shows that

it is still synonymous with extravagant style.
Valentino, founded in 1959 on Rome’s Via Condotti by Valentino
Garavani, is one of the world’s most celebrated fashion
labels. Garavani, who has always simply been known by
his first name, served his apprenticeship at Paris couture
houses such as Balenciaga and Guy Laroche and soon
earned a reputation for jet-set glamour – a lifestyle he
Shirt by Valentino, enthusiastically adopted for himself. Women’s Wear Daily
£425. At Style.com
dubbed him the “sheikh of chic” and he flitted effortlessly
between his French chateau, chalet in Gstaad and his yacht
one for him, one for the luggage and one for
his pugs – was detailed in a documentary
Valentino: The Last Emperor, which premiered
at the Venice Film Festival in 2008. The same
year, Valentino retired and his accessory direc-
tors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli,
were appointed the new creative directors.
Under this duo, the brand enjoyed a remark-
able renaissance – reinventing itself as one of
world’s coolest brands, marrying tradition with
innovation and a strong nod to streetwear.
Unsurprisingly, the accessories are particularly
strong. It was Valentino who reinvented the
sneaker as a high-fashion object of desire and
the camo-covered “Garavani” sells out every
season, along with the studded “Rockrunner”.
Photograph James Pearson-Howes

in the Med, with homes in Rome, Paris, New York and London.
He was made famous in the US thanks to his friend and first
lady Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore six black haute couture
dresses by Valentino during 1963, her year of mourn-
ing for the assassinated JFK.
His luxurious and extravagant
Trainers by Valentino,
£470. At Style.com
lifestyle – the designer was
always picked up from
airports by three limos:
The duo were not afraid to intellectualise;
Spring/Summer 2017 was inspired by an exhi-
bition of unfinished artworks at the Met in
New York. It was also Chiuri’s last collection
for Valentino, as she was poached to take over
from Raf Simons at Christian Dior. Piccioli's
punk-inspired first independent collection
showed the brand is likely to keep its cool for
some time to come. RJ Available at Style.com

118 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

freelancer inspired by the Gibson Les Paul
ARE YOU TOO
SEXY FOR
YOUR SHIRT?

If you’ve got the body of a god,

don’t wear a baggy shirt.
Wear a new super fitted stretch
shirt from T.M.Lewin.
Made with 5% lycra, it hugs your
body, and shows off your assets.
But with more comfort, and
greater movement.
Sexy, indeed.

Available in-store and online at

tmlewin.co.uk/stretch
 I am a big fan of
layering. I believe
there is a real art to it
and it can make anyone look
incredibly well put together,
if done right, that is. The only
problem is, what does one do when
the temperature soars?
Shirt by Cos, £55. Shirt by Officine Générale, £155. Sebastian, via email
cosstores.com At Mr Porter. mrporter.com
Unsurprisingly, the very act of layering means
that this is a look that works best when it is a
little colder – though when the mercury rises,
I find that the air-conditioning is often turned
up so high that you need thermals to stop
shivering. For example, when I worked in Sydney,
during summer I would walk to the office in
the sweltering heat in a T-shirt with a sweater
in my backpack to put on when I was indoors.
Successful year-round layering, however, is
all about the art of balance and playing with
proportions. For instance, take an Asos longline
navy-and-white striped T-shirt and wear it under
a white denim jacket. As it is all about contrasting
proportions, twin this look with cropped trousers
and chunky high-tops. Or for a more formal look,

STYLE SHRINK:
twin long shirts with shorter linen jackets. An
overshirt is a really useful summer layering piece
– the military khaki version by Levi’s Made &
Crafted is a great alternative to a jacket on a hot
day... Of course, the great advantage of layering
EDITED BY ROBERT JOHNSTON is that you can take things off or put them on as
and when you need them.

I am looking for some long-sleeved shirts for work that look good without a tie.
I find that too many casual shirts won’t tuck in and look sloppy. Any ideas?
Dave, Swansea

Before answering Dave’s specific question, I want to talk about workwear in general – and
the importance of adopting a personal uniform specifically. There are some men who seem Overshirt by Levi’s Made & Crafted,
to think that the best way to appear well dressed is to wear completely different clothes £160. levi.com
every day. Alas, a wide wardrobe isn’t necessarily a great one and too often this desire for
variety results in making a number of small errors – for example, bad sock combinations
or the wrong shoes with the wrong trousers – which mean you never look completely
polished. Or, even worse, you look too try-hard. So, my advice is to adopt a single look
and stick with it as far as possible. It might be as simple as a signature colour – personally,
like a lot of men, I tend to stick to navy blue. Or, when you buy work shirts, it is a good
idea to find the perfect one and buy five. Which brings me back to Dave – find the perfect
white shirt and wear it every day. For a button-down I really recommend French label
Officine Générale’s white Oxford button-down in Japanese selvedge cotton. It is brilliant
quality and I know from personal experience that it washes really well and just gets better
and better. Also, the thickness of the cotton means it stays tucked in. For a more formal
style, Cos does a great slim-fit white shirt with a hidden placket – this is the piece of cloth
the buttons are attached to so in this case the buttons are invisible, giving the shirt front
a very clean look. The hemline is slightly curved so the shirt should stay tucked in. By the Jacket by Levi’s Orange Tab, £95.
way, the very worst culprit on the untucked shirt front is an expanded gut, so for a smooth At Asos. asos.com
look, cut down on the morning bacon butties.

If I go out at night I quickly find all my pockets end up bulging with phone, wallet, house
keys – and the rest. Add to that, if I get the tube I like to read on my journey. What is the
solution? Bob, via email

Long gone are the days when a gentleman could tickets and receipts at home. As for everything
head out on the tiles with nothing but a bank card, else, it is time that men started carrying bags at
a couple of £20 notes and a Yale key, confident all times. I have a small Berluti briefcase on a strap
Photographs Roger Stillman

Cardholder by Gucci, £205.
At matchesfashion.com
that every eventuality would be covered. And even
editing your wallet down to nothing more than a
contactless card doesn’t free up that much pocket
space. Nevertheless, the first thing to do is to
identify a cardholder as a “going-out” wallet that
will comfortably hold a card, a key and a note or
two as well as fit comfortably into a jean pocket.
Leave your everyday wallet stuffed full of old train
that is just the right size for all my necessities –
including a paperback (I like to read on a journey,
too). A rucksack might be more butch but ever
since I saw a documentary a few years ago
about the juvenile pickpocket gangs that operate
outside Milan’s Stazione Centrale I have never felt
comfortable with a backpack anywhere remotely
crowded – which I suppose isn’t very butch.

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 121

 The G Preview:June
E D I T E D BY HOLLY ROBERTS

Bringing you the very latest in fashion, grooming, watches, news and exclusive events

Junior Retail Editor Michiel Steur

1 Jacket by New Look, £49.99. newlook.com 2 Sunglasses by Carrera, £110. At Sunglasses Shop. sunglassesshop.co.uk
3 Jumper by Paul & Shark, £290. paulandshark.co.uk 4 Jeans by Jacob Cohën, £286. jacobcohen.it
5 Engineer II PowerLIGHT watch by Ball Watch, £2,400. ballwatch.ch 6 Orris fragrance by MCM, £95 for 100ml. mcmworldwide.com
7 Jacket by North Sails, £154. northsails.com 8 Bag by John Varvatos, £1,195. johnvarvatos.com
9 Jacket by Scotch & Soda, £209.95. scotch-soda.com

122 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 PREVIEW

We love
Luxury performance wear by Plein Sport
This season sees the launch of Plein Sport, the stand-alone
sportswear brand created by luxury designer Philipp Plein.
Built with performance in mind, the collection has been developed
for the modern man who is looking for something more from
his workout wear. Fusing functionality and luxury, the brand
has an uncompromising, rebellious feel. Expect strong
colours and impactful prints on everything from track
tops to trainers, all featuring the brand’s signature
tiger emblem.

Jacket, £465 by Plein Sport. pleinsport.com

Photograph Jody Todd
 PREVIEW

Jacket, £85.
Trousers, £40.
Both by
River Island.
river-island.com

Polo shirt by
Marks & Spencer, £89.
marksandspencer.com

The Akasha Holistic

Wellbeing Centre
at Hotel Café Royal

Bracelet by
Shamballa, £2,550.
shamballajewels.com

Erolfa fragrance by
Creed, £185 for 75ml.
creedfragrances.co.uk

Swim shorts by Orlebar Brown, £175.

orlebarbrown.co.uk

Trainers by
Massimo Dutti, £74.95.

How to massimodutti.com

Pack for a weekend in the city

LOCATED in the heart of the city, Hotel Café Royal on London’s
Regent Street is the perfect escape for relaxation while you enjoy all
the excitement the capital has to offer. Established in 1865, nowadays
the hotel has 160 guestrooms and suites, created in a modern yet
refined style, with a collection of seven signature suites that pay
homage to its heritage with characteristics derived from original
features. After a day in luxurious Mayfair or buzzing Soho – the hotel is
conveniently positioned between the two – come back to its grandiose
Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Centre, where besides an imposing gym,
pool and sauna, you’ll find a range of special treatments. Dive into
London’s first Watsu pool, heated to 35C, where you can enjoy modern
hydrotherapeutic treatments for ultimate relaxation. Keep up your
sartorial excellence in the hotel’s spa with Orlebar Brown’s signature
printed swim shorts and team them with this navy classic knitted polo
shirt from Marks & Spencer’s Best Of British range. In the evening,
head over for dinner to the Grill Room, restored to its original Louis
XVI décor, or pop into the vibrant Green Bar for a drink and dress up
with this classic grey River Island suit. Hitting the town after? Tone it
down with a polo shirt and these sophisticated Massimo Dutti trainers
for an excellent smart casual look.
Hotel Café Royal, 68 Regent Street, London W1. 020 7406 3333.
hotelcaferoyal.com

Where to shop
Looking to hit the shops during your 1. Shirt by Ben Sherman, £75.
stay? One of London’s hottest 50 Carnaby Street.
shopping destinations around Hotel bensherman.co.uk
Café Royal is the area of Carnaby, 2. Watch by Nixon, £100.
Edited by Michiel Steur

where you’ll find a mix of British 6 Newburgh Street. nixon.com

heritage and international brands. 3. Polo Shirt by The Kooples,
Head over to the stores to find £98. 30-31 Carnaby Street.
some of our top picks! thekooples.co.uk
Carnaby Street, City of Westminster, 4. Shoes by G.H. Bass, £125.
London W1. carnaby.co.uk 35 Beak Street. ghbass-eu.com

124 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

It is our rich history of exploration that led us to discover people around the world
who pursue a different kind of wealth. Together they form the San Miguel Rich List –
a unique group of men and women who value experiences over any possession.

We are searching for more inspirational people who share our thirst for discovery,
creativity or new experiences. For a chance to feature in the San Miguel Rich List,
nominate yourself or someone you know at SanMiguel.co.uk/Apply

UK residents, 18+ to nominate, 25+ to feature. 1-4 Rich List places available. Closes 30th July 2017. To see full T&Cs visit SanMiguel.co.uk/Apply
 e x p l o re t h e e n er g y o f c re at i o n
Reversible Lock Bracelets, Star Of Shamballa Cufflinks, Shamballa Non-Braided Bracelets, Star Of Shamballa Alliance Armring, Dorje Ring
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Find your nearest retailer at shamballajewels.com | Follow us on Instagram @shamballajewels

S TA R O F S H A M B A L L A | P I LO U A S B Æ K B Y C O O P E R & GORFER
E S S E N T I A L W R I ST AT T I R E

M o d e l 7 17 0 R R P £ 1 4 9 w w w . a c c u r i s t . c o . u k
YOUR .
ESSENTIAL .
GUIDE .
TO .
THE .
WORLD .
OF .
WAT C H E S

2017

ROCK ASK THE

AND WATCH
ROLLING SHRINK
STONES Your horological
dilemmas
The man
reinventing dissected
men’s jewellery

PLUS! IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Anatomy
Of A Watch
Collection:
Part Three
By James A ZINE DE
Gurney AG D
M IC
Y
L

A
N

TE
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T H E M I D -T E R M

TO
TREND •
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REPORT ME
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W
W A
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HES AND J

DESIGN LIFE
FOR

(THE UNIVERSE AND EVERYTHING)

From centuries to seconds: counting down the best timepieces right now
EDITOR’S LETTER

138

Shamballa
co-founder
Mads Kornerup

Editor’s letter 140

If this year’s watch report was to have a
theme tune it would be Louis Armstrong’s
“We Have All The Time In The World” (not
because it served as a Bond song – though
we might save that for next year), because it
talks to the myriad ways – old and new – in
which watchmakers are currently counting
out time (which, come to think of it, suggests
another theme tune).
From split-second chronographs
measuring down to a 100th of a second to
the incredible Vacheron Constantin Celestia
(read about it on GQ.co.uk) – you can now
record time as it unfolds over the next 133
century-plus without making any correction
to the timepiece itself (assuming you rely on
a watch winder, hence the presence of the Contents
beautiful example pictured on our cover).
Indeed, such has been the prevalence of News 133
The big-name launches to know now.
moon phases, annual calendars and
perpetual calendars over the past few
Jewellery 138
months, we decided to dedicate our entire How Denmark’s Shamballa made beads,
trend report to the different manner in bracelets and bling a male essential.
which watches show their temporal wares,
so to speak: we’re calling it “From centuries Anatomy of a watch
to split-seconds”. Who knows, in a few collection 140
years from now, we might be able to claim Why who designed your watch is now
“From millennia to milliseconds” – and given as important as who made it.
some of the innovating going on right now,
146
I wouldn’t bet against it. Trends 146
In other news: James Gurney returns for Our pick of the watches you need right
now, from perpetuals to chronographs.
the third installment of his “Anatomy of a
watch collection” considering the importance GQ Watch Shrink 154
of the designer in the most coveted
Troubleshooting with Robert Johnston.
timepieces, and Robert Johnston answers
your horological queries in his regular
Watch Shrink column.

Bill Prince • Editor

GQ Watch And Jewellery

ON THE COVER
FOR ADDITIONAL INTERACTIVE
CONTENT DOWNLOAD Editor-in-Chief Dylan Jones Editor Bill Prince Associate Editor Robert Johnston
THE iPAD APP FROM iTUNES
Managing Editor Mark Russell Art Director Amanda Beer Chief Sub-Editor George
Chesterton Picture Editor Alfie Baldwin Stylist Grace Gilfeather Contributing Writer
James Gurney Contributing Photographers Matthew Beedle, Todd Sutherland
Octo Ultranero by Publisher Vanessa Kingori Associate Publisher Vikki Theo New Business Director
Bulgari, £5,800. Rashad Braimah Associate Director: Creative Solutions Alexandra Carter Creative
bulgari.com. Winder by Solutions Art Director James Warner
Bernard Favre, £1,050.
At convopiece.com. ©2017 The Condé Nast Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in
Photograph part without permission is strictly prohibited. Not to be sold separately from the June 2017
Matthew Beedle issue of GQ magazine. Printed by Wyndeham Group. Colour origination by Tag: Response.

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 131

 NEWS

THE .
L AT E S T .
MOVEMENTS .
IN .
THE .
WORLD .
OF .
HOROLOGY

FIRST T IM E examples of its hallowed cloth incorporated in

Threads of time:

Classic Fusion Chronograph Tartan King

Gold by Hublot, £29,000. hublot.com
Lapo Elkann (left)
both the strap and the dial of a limited series of
looking at vintage Classic Fusion Chronographs, a tech-
fabrics with tailor
Luca Rubinacci
nical and aesthetic feat that reflects Elkann’s
pursuit of highly individual style signifiers.
The union of nontraditional materials and
high-end watchmaking is nothing new to
Hublot, and this collaboration comes hot on
the heels of its line of watches in partnership
with Berluti, for whom it integrated its famed
leather into dials to dramatic effect. But for
Italia Independent, it has created something
rather more personal, as Elkann explains: “As
a creator, I have always put customisation and
bespoke designs at the heart of my different
projects. And these are really patterns that are
extremely elegant – Prince of Wales, hound-
stooth, tartan – but they also come from a
tradition of Neapolitan tailoring. Having seen
what they have done with Berluti – and having
a legitimacy myself in tailoring – I wanted to

For a smarter watch bring this to Hublot, a company where the

Choose a truly tailored
timepiece from a growing
band of bespoke brands
One wears a suit, and one surely wears
a watch. But there the connection abruptly
ends. Or does it? After any number of fashion
brands have launched their own timepiece
collections (and check out the new offering by
Gucci, under the control of its creative director
Alessandro Michele) it’s the turn of tailors
proper to transform our wrists into another
source of sartorial status-signalling.
In this guise, Ermenegildo Zegna has
form, having worked in the past with
impossible is never impossible.”
But then terroir is clearly important to the
Girard-Perregaux to celebrate its centenary in tailoring/timepiece interface: recently, Tom
2010. This year, the Florentine house returns Ford announced his first line of watches, in
with its Monterubello Travel Watch. collaboration with Bedrock, the company
Featuring big date, moon phase and GMT behind Shinola, a watch brand based in Detroit,
functions, limited to 25 pieces, it follows three Michigan. However,
hand-with-date and chronograph models that in line with industry
surfaced in 2011, and costs £23,000. expectations, Tom
But perhaps the nexus of tailoring and time- Ford’s collection will
keeping has been reached in the latest collab- be Swiss-made, still
oration between Lapo Elkann’s design studio, an important signi-
Italia Independent, and Hublot, the Geneva fier in the world of
manufacture that embodies, in its own words, luxury timepieces. BP
“the art of fusion”, for which Elkann’s favour-
ite tailor, Rubinacci, has provided examples Monterubello
Travel Watch by
of vintage fabrics hauled from its Neapolitan Ermenegildo Zegna,
vaults. The results are impressive, with six £23,000. zegna.us

CARTIER REVISITS THE BIRTH OF AN ICON

Opening its archive from a period in its history that coincided with riotous change in the world at
large, Cartier In Motion – an exhibition at the Design Museum London curated by Sir Norman
Foster – triangulates Louis Cartier’s fabrication of the first men’s wristwatch, for the Brazilian
Photograph Getty Images

aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont, the influence of Paris on the maison and the very nature of the
avant-garde, as reflected in the eccentric Santos-Dumont (his high-stool dining furniture has been
recreated for the show) and Cartier’s distinctive design ethos: ten Crash watches (originally
designed in London) have been recreated to mark the occasion. Alternatively, there’s the iconic
Santos itself: still going strong 103 years on from its debut on the wrist of its no less illustrious
Santos 100 by Cartier, namesake. Cartier In Motion runs from 23 May – 23 July at The Design Museum. 224-238 Fly guy: Brazilian aviator
£5,600. cartier.co.uk Kensington High Street, London W8. 020 3862 5900. designmuseum.org Alberto Santos-Dumont

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 133

 NEWS

A STRONG CONNECTION
TAG Heuer is convinced that its
second-generation smartwatch will spur a
trend in watch design: modularity. Its new
Connected Modular 45 allows customers
to unclip the digital watch from the lugs and
snap in a mechanical alternative in seconds.
Currently, those mechanical options extend to
a Calibre 5 automatic and Calibre Heuer-02T
tourbillon, though more have been promised.
“The problem of a [traditional] connected
watch is it becomes obsolete. And when it is
obsolete, as with my phone, I have to throw it
away,” TAG Heuer CEO Jean-Claude Biver tells
GQ. “Big Ben is 150 years old and, damn, it
still works! There is no car, there is no phone
that can work after 150 years. The modular
watch enables you to have tradition and the
future. And if you are fed up with the future
because the future becomes obsolete, you
have your tradition.” What’s more, unlike
the first-generation smartwatch, this one is
Swiss-made: final assembly takes place at the
company’s La Chaux-de-Fonds workshops.
Modularity makes the watch extraordinar-
ily customisable; owners can also switch the
strap, buckle and lugs on the fly. Combine that
with the 56 different models of the Modular
45 available at launch, in materials ranging
from ceramic to rose gold, and TAG Heuer says
TAG Heuer’s
Jean-Claude
Biver mixes
it up with the
Connected
Modular 45
there are 4,752 possible configurations.
Other companies have attempted to make
modular technologies before but encountered
difficulties. For instance, Google’s Project Ara
modular smartphone never made it to market.
Yet Biver says he didn’t have any anxieties
about jumping on the trend. “We didn’t hesi-
tate. I was convinced about its success. Every
customer wants to be individual.”
But is this watch truly “modular” – isn’t TAG
Heuer’s new approach simply a way of selling
someone a second watch and making it simple
to change the strap? “Why not? I’m open. It’s
a good way to sell a second watch, yes!”
As with TAG Heuer’s first Connected watch,
the digital module (designed in collaboration
with Google and Intel) shows classic dials on
the display: it is, once again, a smartwatch for
watch lovers. This time, however, the Amoled
screen is sharper, plus the watch comes with
Google’s Android Wear 2.0 operating system,
is water-resistant to 50m, and is equipped
with GPS and NFC. What hasn’t changed is
the expense. Whereas the Apple Watch starts
at £269, the Connected Modular 45 is £1,400
– that’s £300 more than the launch price of
TAG Heuer’s first Connected watch – and
the most affordable mechanical module is a
further £1,400. “Somebody must be the most
expensive,” says Biver. “The Rolls-Royce used
to be the most expensive car. What’s wrong
with that? Nothing! It’s good.”
TAG Heuer sold 56,000 units of its original
Connected watch. While this represents a
fraction of the larger smartwatch market, in
the context of the Swiss watch world – which
is currently weathering both digital disrup-
tion and a Chinese slowdown – the manufac-
turer considers this a success.
Biver believes that other brands will
embrace modularity. Why haven’t they done
so before? “Innovation is always a surprise
when it comes out on the market,” he says.
“Now that we have made a start, I swear there
are a few brands today who’ll think, ‘How
could we do the same? This modularity has
some legs.’” Charlie Burton tagheuer.com

LATEST LAUNCH: CONNECTED WATCHES

Photograph Getty Images

MONTBLANC SUMMIT, £795 MOVADO CONNECT, £475

Channelling its vintage-look 1858 collection,
Montblanc’s first connected watch uses Android Wear
2.0, with apps dedicated to fitness, travel and social
engagement. Notably, it does not include NFC, barring
it from online payment systems. montblanc.com
Echoing the US brand’s emblematic Museum
watch design, Movado’s first smartwatch includes
iOS and Android compatibility, powered by
Google. It also features fitness tracking, Android
Pay and Google Assistant. movado.com

134 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 PARTNERSHIP

The Royal
Exchange: Both
a monument to
history and a
celebration of the
contemporary

From top: Speedmaster Moonwatch watch by Omega,

£7,520. omegawatches.com. Bracelet by Tateossian,
£145. tateossian.com. Norton V4 watch by Bremont,
£5,495. bremont.co.uk. CT60™ Chronograph 42 mm
watch by Tiffany & Co., £6,800. tiffany.co.uk

WEDNESDAY
24 MAY
6.30PM – 8PM

WATCH
THIS SPACE
The Royal Exchange, an unparalleled luxury
shopping experience, showcases its fourth
annual Watch & Jewellery Week, a sparkling
event with heritage to spare
 THE
ROYAL
EXCHANGE
Head to The Royal Exchange
to shop brands including:
Bremont, Boodles, Georg Jensen,
Halcyon Days, Hermès, Links Of
London, Montblanc, Omega,
Tateossian, Theo Fennell, Tiffany & Co,
Watches Of Switzerland
and Watchfinder & Co.
This month plays host to The Royal
Exchange’s fourth annual Watch & Jewellery
Week. From 22 to 26 May, this five-day
celebration of the finest products the City
has to offer showcases the splendour of
contemporary craftsmanship. Previous
years have featured a seminar on building
a watch collection, including a panel of
industry experts from companies including
Watches Of Switzerland; a talk by an
antique specialist from London Silver
Vaults on the City’s watchmaking heritage;
a Q&A session with Bremont co-founder
Giles English; and a two-hour watchmaking
masterclass led by Watchfinder & Co
(whose first shop was in The Royal
Exchange), in which attendees were
invited to get up close and personal
with the inner-workings of beautiful
timepieces.
This year is set to offer yet more
exclusives, previews, talks and events,
a myriad of brands showcasing their
treasures – and experts available to inspire
and advise. Throughout the week, the
Central Courtyard will display highlights
from many of the building’s boutiques, and
visitors will be able to sample the newest
products, and also peer into the windows of
these worlds, getting the chance to learn
more about horology and jewellery.
There will be activities from Watches Of
Switzerland, Montblanc, Omega, Tateossian,
Theo Fennell and Watchfinder & Co, among
others, including, on the Wednesday and
Thursday, a Bremont watchmaker workshop.
GQ will be there too – to kick things off on
the Monday, we’ll be broadcasting on
Facebook Live, and for one evening –
Wednesday night – we’ll be hosting a
readers’ event: an extravaganza of special
guests, fantastic prizes and promotions, and
the opportunity to peruse exclusive products
in the stores, including Tiffany & Co, Watches
Of Switzerland, Tateossian and Theo Fennell.
GQ Watch & Jewellery Week is in a league
of its own – combining an unrivalled
experience in a unique location. At nearly
500 years old, The Royal Exchange knows
a thing or two about time. Come and see
for yourself.
 PARTNERSHIP

London: very much for retail businesses,

Edi com nias de
steeped in history, yet thus creating Britain’s
la comnihiti well ahead of the first shopping centre,
beaquia nos rera curve, the capital is a and brokers and
pe ped quasa et glorious stew where merchants alike
incongruity rules. And flocked to it.
nowhere is this more The Royal Exchange
applicable than in the endured through
City itself, where the hard times – it was
past surrounds us destroyed by fire in
while we look to the 1666, and then again in
future. Old meshes 1838, both times being
with new – and one rebuilt, rising again
building in particular is phoenix-like from its
a proud monument to own ashes, each time
such time-straddling. with grander designs.
Both a historical Today it is a Grade
wonder and a modern I-listed building and,
marvel, The Royal having been
Exchange is a luxury remodelled in 2001
retail and dining by Aukett Fitzroy
destination in the heart Robinson, its
of the City. Offering an architectural reputation
unrivalled collection of is second to only
boutique shopping – St Paul’s Cathedral
particularly watches and the Tower Of
and jewellery – it is an London. With a newly
enriching environment expanded courtyard, it
with stunning is now an unparalleled
architectural heritage. luxury shopping and
Officially opened by dining destination,
Queen Elizabeth I in housing stunning
1571, it began as a retail opulence from
purpose-built centre around the world,
for trading stocks and including Boodles,
immediately became a Hermès, Georg
haven for the City’s Jensen and Tiffany &
traders. Yet it inspired Co. The traditional and
all who visited – two the modern are well
floors were soon served. Selection is
added to the original vast, quality
trading floor, allowing unmatched.

A timekeeper’s
paradise, The
Royal Exchange
is a tribute to the
world’s finest
watchmaking

GQ WATCH NIGHT
Once again, GQ is proud promises even more. GQ be opportunities to win
to host a dazzling reader will be hosting various limited-edition cufflinks,
event during The Royal talks including a Q&A a pre-owned Rolex
Exchange’s Watch & featuring Fashion Submariner and, to
Jewellery Week. Director Robert celebrate Bremont’s
Previous years have seen Johnston and Robert aviation heritage, a shot
stellar watchmaking Tateossian on how to at getting yourself a
panels with Bulgari and style your watch with once-in-a-lifetime flight
Bremont, and 2017 jewellery, and there will in a Spitfire.

Wednesday 24 May, 6.30pm - 8pm: Tickets are limited and

will be allocated on a first-come, first-served basis.
Register at: rsvptheroyalexchange@condenast.co.uk
‘People Original treasure: Mads
Kornerup co-founded
Shamballa in 2005

say that
Shamballa Mads wears necklace,
£112,000. Chain in
changed yellow gold, £7,400.
From left: Bracelet,

the men’s £6,606. Bracelet,

£9423. Bracelet, £4,920.

market’ All by Shamballa.

shamballajewels.com

138 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 JEWELLERY

STORY BY Robert Johnston

P RO F I L E :

MADS
KORNERUP
Zen and the art of male
JEWELLERY
How Shamballa is revolutionising bracelets, beads and bling
Men’s jewellery is perhaps the final fashion Russell Simmons to Madonna – were doing
taboo. Of course, it has always been there, but yoga at the Jivamukti studio on Lafayette.”
has never managed to escape the strictures of Of course, bracelets are only the beginning.
Elizabeth Duke-style chains and half- “Once men realise that there are other ways of
sovereign rings or Sloane-borne gap-year tat. adorning themselves than just wearing
But now male adornment has broken through a watch, then they might start thinking about
and is genuinely cool – and even the genera- a ring, or even a necklace. But they start off
tion who might once have looked askance at a with the bracelet because it’s the closest thing
man in a wedding band are getting on board. to the watch. As men, we cannot run away
One man who can claim to be responsible for from the fact that personal adornment is
this sea change is Shamballa co-founder and deeply embedded within us. It is only for the
creative director Mads Kornerup. “Our clients past 100 years that we have been imprisoned
now include men from the ages of 17 to those in a suit and I think that we are all slowly
in their early seventies – including my father,” breaking out of that suit.”
he says. “A friend of his who you would never So, does he think that eventually all jewel-
have imagined wearing jewellery has just lery will be unisex? “Definitely not. Well, only
come back from a sailing holiday wearing if the human race becomes unisex. I don’t
a bracelet made from fishing hooks and line think there will ever be a point when a man
made for him by one of the skippers.” will look great in a pair of chandelier earrings.
After falling in love with semi-precious That’s just not going to happen.”
stones on his travels around the world in his
Rock solid: Jayden Smith photographed for
twenties, Kornerup founded Shamballa in GQ Style wearing jewellery by Shamballa
Copenhagen in 2005 with his brother Mikkel
– the name comes from the kingdom in Tibetan
Buddhist mythology we would call Shangri-
La. The brand was soon known for spearhead-
ing a casual way for a man to wear jewellery
around his wrist, using materials such as onyx,
marble, pearls and coloured diamonds.
“I’m not saying we own this,” he says, “but
we really inspired the companies that have
copied us since. Other people in the business
tell me that the Shamballa bracelet changed
the market and that there is no other men’s
bracelet that has had such a huge impact.”
A sprinkling of famous fans doesn’t hurt,
Photographs Terry Tsiolis; Shamballa

either. “We had a store in SoHo in New York,”

he recalls, “and Zofia Borucka, the wife of
actor Jean Reno, told me I had to make some-
thing for Jay Z – her son’s godfather. At that
time the rappers were wearing huge diamond
bracelets, but Jay Z was looking for something
more zen because all the cool people – from

From top: Necklace, £85. Bracelet, £4,575.

Bracelet, £2,865. Bracelet, £9,945.
All by Shamballa. shamballajewels.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 139

 Ressence watch design by Benoît Mintiens

Bulgari watch design by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani

MB&F watch design by Eric Giroud

140 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

No.3
OF A WATCH
COLLECTION
ANATOMY
 ANATOMY

Does it
matter who An industry not renowned for making stars
of its creatives is becoming more amenable
designed to adding ‘designer’ status to some of its key
pieces. So will this add valuable kudos to

your watch? your collection? James Gurney rounds up

watchmaking’s who’s who

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Matthew Beedle STYLING BY Grace Gilfeather

Will who designed a watch become more important than who in terms of the retail product
made it? It seems a ridiculous idea, when the most sought-after watches offered and the manufacturing
are still those made by individual watchmakers, whether working under process. Jack Heuer, himself
their own names or for larger brands – the more complicated watches an acknowledged devotee of
from the top maisons are almost always made by a single watchmaker. mid-century architects such as
However, two forces at play are changing the picture. The first is that, Oscar Niemayer, revealed that
for most watches, more of the actual watchmaking than ever before is the 1963 Carrera owed its most
done by machine, a direction of travel that improving technology and identifiable feature (an angled
a tougher business environment is propelling more surely than ever. inner flange on which the
The result is that the difference between one watch and another is tachymetre scale was printed)
owed more to the engineering design than the skill of the watchmak- to a new method for fixing the
ers doing the assembly – it’s who designed the system that made the crystal in place. From almost
watch rather than who made it. the same period came what
The second is that the watch industry’s traditional approach to design is generally accepted as the
is simply out of date. In a design-literate world in which we know who finest watch design of all, the
designed everything from our chairs to our shirts, to accept that our Rolex Cosmograph Daytona,
watches simply come from this brand or that maison no longer makes for which there seems to be
sense. The watch industry takes its own good time to adjust, but design no evidence at all as to who
is now part of the conversation in ways that would have been unthink- designed it.
able in earlier decades. There were exceptions of
The watchmaking world was actually relatively quick to adopt the idea course: Louis Cartier, whose
of brands in the modern sense – Longines, in 1889, was one of the first Tank is a century old this year, Edge by Movado, £800. movado.com
to register a trademark and the winged hourglass is the oldest extant clearly had a strong vision for
registration at WIPO (the World Intellectual Property Organisation). At the watches he designed. Similarly, Hans Wilsdorf of Rolex and Henri
a time when precision and quality were much more variable than today, Stern of Patek Philippe were detail obsessives that allowed nothing to
brands focused their marketing on those qualities almost to the exclu- pass without their approval. Nevertheless, the actual business of pro-
sion of everything else. For most of the 20th century, only a few brands ducing final designs was left to draughtsmen working to order and, as
had a consistent look across their collections and the design of a watch Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso or even early Panerais demonstrate, having
might owe as much to external suppliers (of cases, dials and hands) as anonymous designers didn’t mean poor design.
to any directed aesthetic. Instead, the priorities were functional both Nevertheless, the post-war rise of the designer was inevitably going
to reach the watch world. That it did so first in the United States prob-
Ceramica by Rado, £1,705. rado.com ably shouldn’t be a surprise. Movado’s Museum Watch, with its dial
being defined by a solitary dot at 12 to symbolise the sun at high noon,
was designed in 1947 by the Bauhaus-influenced artist Nathan George
Horwitt. (NB: it was first made by Vacheron & Constantin-LeCoultre
Watches Inc, and only later produced by Movado.) The Museum Watch
might have been an anomaly, or at least a rarity (Warhol also designed
a watch for Movado) had Hamilton not followed suit a decade later.
The company had been experimenting with a new electronic move-
ment since 1946 and wanted the watch to have a suitably futuristic
design – when it was finally ready in 1957 it turned to Richard Arbib,
an industrial designer with a reputation for ideas that captured the

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 141

TYPE 3 B in titanium/
black matt pvd by
Ressence, £33,500.
ressencewatches.com

142 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 ANATOMY

space-age zeitgeist. The result was the

Ventura, a watch unlike anything before, HM8 CAN-AM
though its fame owes as much to Elvis Presley in wg by MB&F,
£78,000.
wearing one as its futuristic lines. mbandf.com
If the next decade’s most famous watches
were, effectively, unsigned, it was a jobbing
watch designer, Gérald Genta, that would
change the terms of engagement with a string
of highly recognisable and still sought-after
designs for Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe
and others. And while it was only once col-
lectors began to value his work that his name
Smaller
escaped the industry and he achieved recog-
nition in his own right, it was his reputation
brands
in the industry that allowed him the creative
freedom to make sure it was his ideas that saw
are freer
the light of day. and have
Genta’s path was followed in relatively quick
succession by Jorg Hysek who designed the some
222 for Vacheron Constantin (from which
the contemporary Overseas is derived) and radical
went on to produce key designs for Breguet,
Seiko, TAG Heuer and Tiffany & Co. By 2005,
takes on
when Dior planned the launch of a new
men’s collection it was unthinkable that the
the basic
watch would be designed without the house’s
then artistic director, Hedi Slimane, being
form of
closely involved. a watch
Now it’s simply a matter of strategic choice,
there are brands that emphasise design and brands with other stories Smaller independents are naturally somewhat freer to produce designs
to tell. For Patek Philippe, the maison’s identity must come first, second that challenge and with several having come into existence from the
and third, but no one at Patek pretends that design is irrelevant (you wider design world rather than watchmaking, it’s been no surprise to
might even hear a whisper to the effect that Mme Christine Stern likes see some fairly radical takes on the basic form of a wristwatch. Of the
to keep a watchful eye on proceedings). Similarly, the house styles of more successful, Benoît Mintiens’ Ressence project and Martin Frei, the
both Panerai and A. Lange & Söhne are so central to their brand identi- co-founder of Urwerk stand out for having introduced designs that have
ties that it is, effectively, the brand that signs the watches. Rado, mean- come to be seen as almost natural. Pushing hardest at the envelope of
while, has long made design a priority, regularly working with outside the past 20 years has been Maximilian Büsser. Firstly through the Opus
designers such as Konstantin Grcic. series that he created for Harry Winston and then through his MB&F
project, Büsser has encouraged designers, watchmakers and, crucially,
collectors to embrace a much more liberal approach to design. There’s
a fine line between the intriguing and the ridiculous though, which is
why Büsser (a) is clear about his intentions and (b) works so closely
with Eric Giroud, the industry’s go-to designer.
Even for maisons where it is the brand that takes centre stage, there’s
been a much greater acknowledgement of design as part of a brand’s
identity. Jaeger-LeCoultre is a serious watchmaking “Grande Maison” first
and foremost, but have long given equal billing to Janek Deleskiewicz,
the brand’s artistic director for the past three decades. More recently,
Bulgari has elevated the director of its Watches Design Centre, Fabrizio
Buonamassa Stigliani, to a starring role in the development of its prod-
ucts. Meanwhile, Deleskiewicz’s former boss was Jérôme Lambert, has
moved to Montblanc where he’s appointed Davide Cerrato to give life
to the vision that Lambert has for the brand. The critical and commer-
cial success that Montblanc has achieved owes much to the partner-
ship Lambert’s created, pointing to the critical role that the CEO plays.
So should you now care more about the designer than the watchmaker
or the brand? On occasion yes, but it isn’t a binary question. Design
matters, even in the most horological of spheres – Vacheron Constantin’s
57260, the most complicated watch ever made, certainly tested the
watchmakers and engineers, but Vacheron were
right to emphasise the achievement of the mai-
Octo 41 mm by Bulgari,
son’s design team in making visual sense of such
£5,800. bulgari.com a dense package of indications and dials.

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 143

 RIGHT
ON TIME
Historic watchmaker Louis Erard is proving quality can be
affordable, combining classic finishes with modern techniques

In good hands:
Louis Erard’s Excellence
Moonphase Chronograph;
(opposite) the Excellence
Regulator Automatic PVD
When Louis Erard established
his eponymous dial name in
1931, his goal was to make
watches that were not only
beautifully engineered, but
which were also accessible,
thus realising a common dream
for many of owning a quality,
Swiss-made watch that may
otherwise be priced beyond
reach. That philosophy
continues today, with the
historic company offering an
impressive range of models
across five collections from chic
and elegant women’s cocktail
watches to stylish
chronographs for men.
Especially well known for its
“regulators” (highly accurate
timepieces with a single,
central minute hand and
separate hour counter, which
were used to “regulate” other
watches), Louis Erard has been
careful to maintain the best
traditions of mechanical
horology while sympathetically
combining them with modern
techniques. The result is a
comprehensive collection of
watches that are meticulously
finished both inside and out
and offer a diverse range of
dial tones, cases and
complications. Some feature
iconic designs that have been
subtly up-sized for modern
tastes, while others – such as
the new Excellence Regulator
Automatic in black PVD –
bring high-tech materials
and inspiring colours to an
otherwise truly classic watch.
And, notably for 2017, Louis
Erard has extended its range
of traditional decorative
techniques to guilloche
finishing, an intricate process
whereby a complex repeat
PARTNERSHIP
pattern is engraved on to the
watch dial to add depth and
texture and to enhance the
play of light. The essence of
every Louis Erard watch,
however, is the beating heart
of its movement. The majority
of models use renowned
mechanical calibres, some of
which feature automatic
winding while others –
especially beloved of watch
connoisseurs – offer the tactile
pleasure that only
handwinding can provide. IN FOCUS
Excellence Regulator Power Reserve
Such movements are
offered by many of the This 40mm indicates when the
regulator watch mainspring needs
world’s leading brands in the
features a Peseux to be re-wound.
upper echelons of pricing. 7001 manual- The silver dial is
Fortunately, as referenced, the winding movement, decorated with a
watchmakers at Louis Erard enhanced with an guilloche pattern
work in the belief that watch in-house regulator and has recessed
for ultra-accurate subdials for
lovers should have the chance timekeeping and a clarity and subtle
to realise their dreams. Not power reserve detailing. £1,845.
just to chase them... display that goldsmiths.co.uk
 LUC Perpetual Twin in steel by Chopard, £17,950. chopard.co.uk
PERPETUAL

Master Collection Moonphase by Longines, £2,195. At Harrods. harrods.com

Classic Perpetual Calendar Moon Phase in rose gold by Breguet, £52,700. breguet.com
A perpetual
calendar can measure
time accurately for
centuries, even taking
leap years into
consideration
•

From CENTURIES
Measure for measure, these are our pick of the finest watches to keep you on time and up to date
146 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
 STORY BY
Bill Prince
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Todd Sutherland
STYLING BY
TREND REPORT

Grace Gilfeather
Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph by IWC, £25,500. Iwc.com

Patrimony Perpetual Calendar in rose gold by Vacheron Constantin, £71,400. vacheron-constantin.com

ChronoGraff in black steel and diamonds and emeralds by Graff, price on application. graffdiamonds.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 147

to SPLIT-SECONDS
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148 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

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JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 149

HOURS, MINUTES, DATES AND DAYS
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150 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 TREND REPORT

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JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 151

 Thanks to
Louis XVIII, the
first commercial
CHRONOGPAPH

chronograph was
introduced by Nicolas
Mathieu Rieussec
in 1821
•

Chrono Blue 42mm by Tudor, £3,010. tudorwatch.com

Moon watch by Bulova, £489. bulova.com

Freelancer Automatic Chronograph by Raymond Weil, £2,495. raymond-weil.com

Classic Fusion Chronograph in gold by Hublot, £36,500. hublot.com

152 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 TREND REPORT
Stones supplied by Cawdor Stone Gallery

Maverick Chronograph by Victorinox, £589. victorinox.com

Chronomaster El Primero in steel by Zenith, £5,500. zenith-watches.com

Jaguar II White by Bremont, £5,195. bremont.com

Autavia chronograph by TAG Heuer, £3,900. tagheuer.co.uk

Avenger Hurricane 12H by Breitling, £7,185. breitling.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 153


Seiko Kinetic Perpetual by Seiko,
£579. seiko.co.uk
What is the difference between an
automatic and a kinetic movement?
Hugh, via email
Automatic watches have a movement that
employs an oscillating weight – or rotor – to
convert movement in the wearer’s wrist and
arm into energy by applying tension to a
wound mainspring. A kinetic watch operates
in a similar way but, in this case, the
movement is converted into electrical energy
and is stored in a self-charging battery,
meaning that it could be described as halfway
between a mechanical and a quartz watch –
though a kinetic watch will need to have its
battery replaced far less often than its quartz
counterpart. The technology was developed
by Seiko and introduced in 1986. A kinetic
watch will keep time for far longer than an
automatic when not worn and this can be for
many months – an automatic’s power reserve
will last a few days at best. (The Panerai
Luminor 1950 10-Days Automatic Ceramica,
has a ten-day reserve and this is considered
exceptional.) In contrast, the Seiko Kinetic
Perpetual puts itself into sleep with correct
time and date for up to four years after. When
the watch is activated again it will change all
the displays to the new time and date.
154 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
ADVICE
Why do the bezels of diving
watches sometimes come in
two colours? JK, via email
Perhaps the most famous bi-coloured bezel
is that on the Rolex “Pepsi” GMT Master II
– though this is a pilot watch and was
originally designed for Pan Am aircrew. The
design was intended to let pilots know at a
glance whether it was day or night when on
flights over different time zones. Colour on
diving watches has a different function,
however, thanks to water’s ability to absorb
light and therefore colour – starting with
red. Red disappears by the time you reach
GQ’s doctor of 20ft beneath the surface so – for example –
a Coca-Cola can at that depth would appear
horology resolves grey. At anything like 100ft, the normal
your dilemmas maximum depth for an experienced open
water diver, the only colour visible will be
in perfect time blue. This comes in handy when surfacing
from a deeper dive as this needs to be done
BY slowly as divers are required to rest for up to
Robert Johnston
20 minutes at certain depths to prevent the
bends – decompression sickness – and a
colour on a bezel becoming visible is a good
indication of depth. So, while this is mainly
decorative today, as most modern divers rely
on wrist computers, it is always good to
have a back-up. And a bi-colour
bezel looks pretty good, too.
GMT-Master II by Rolex,
£28,150. rolex.com
Wolf “Cub” watch I like to wear a different watch every day, so they tend
winder by Wolf Designs,
£150. At mrporter.com to wind down between wears. Is it OK to wind my
automatic watch manually with the crown?
J Burton, via email
It is fine to do it occasionally, but not too often – particularly, when your watch
is equipped with a screw-down crown. First, by winding with a crown, the gears
and other parts of an automatic movement will wear out faster and the
screw-down crown system will also quickly wear out as it is not designed to be
used so frequently. A self-winding watch should be worn at least eight hours a
day to maximise the power reserve so, rather than letting your automatic
watch’s power reserve run down, invest in a simple automatic watch winder.
Simon Spiteri, the watch buyer, at Mr Porter recommends the Wolf “Cub” watch
winder. “At £150 it is a stylish and efficient tool and its patented pause and sleep
rotation phases gives it an added edge, keeping your watch always on time,” he
says. Otherwise, to initiate the power reserve, the watch must be wound
manually – turning the winding crown in a clockwise direction for around 40
revolutions is usually sufficient for most automatic watches. After this the watch
will wind itself automatically (rebuilding the power reserve) by means of the
oscillating weight that moves every time you do. If the watch has been off the
wrist for more than 15-20 hours, the initial process may well have to be repeated.

SECONDS TO NONE
Watches have never been more coveted… or more
sophisticated and complex. Watches Of Switzerland
ensures the acquisition of a watch for life is a pleasure
“Manufacture.”
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“Chronometer certification.”
If the jargon stands between
you and your dream
timepiece, Watches Of
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through the geek-speak – and
it’s been doing so for more
than 90 years. As “London’s
Destination for Luxury
Watches”, it understands
the personal nature of a
wristwatch, an item you wear
for its primary function – to
tell the time – yet which is
chosen for its potential to
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Finding the perfect model for
your taste, style and needs
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At Watches Of Switzerland,
the atmosphere is one of
horological obsession. Its
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timepieces, where luxury
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hundreds of models, though,
is one that is the ideal match
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Finding the luxury
timepiece for you is what
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endeavours to make its
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Its experts have been trained
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PARTNERSHIP
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you will find broad and
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from the world’s greatest
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prestigious brands, including
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Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC,
Cartier and Officine Panerai.
From each brand’s classics
to their latest models,
Watches of Switzerland will
match you to your ideal
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evo2
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Extensive Mondaine SBB range available from John Lewis, Goldsmiths and other leading retailers.
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 WHAT II WEAR
WHAT WEAR

P H OTO G R A P H BY
NEIL BEDFORD Former footballer
Dean Cook calls the
shots as menswear
buying manager at
Browns. Here, he
reveals his fashion
game-changers

WISH LIST
Shirt
“I love this shirt’s
statement burnout print,
as well as its movement
and fluidity. It’s great
for summer, as the fit
WISH LIST is so relaxed and the
Sunglasses arms and body are
“I like the colour of the frame, which is unstructured.” By
a translucent blonde and makes a nice Haider Ackermann,
change from classic chocolate-brown or £1,165. haider
tortoiseshell.” By Garrett Leight, £260. ackermann.com
At Browns. brownsfashion.com

Jumper
“This chunky knit comes from an
exclusive collaboration between
Helen Lawrence and Browns. I love
how Lawrence’s designs are handmade Trousers
using different weaves and wools to “The bold red stripes
achieve this ribbed effect.” £740. make this style very
At Browns. brownsfashion.com dressy, but I’ve toned it
down with trainers and
knitwear. It’s a typical
Haider Ackermann
statement for the
trousers to be billowy
at the top and narrow
at the bottom.” £1,140.
haiderackermann.com

WISH LIST
Speaker
“The A2 Active is B&O Play’s most
innovative design because the
speaker is double-sided. Usually
when you sit behind a speaker you
Story by Eleanor Halls Photographs Roger Stillman; Jody Todd Styling Tony Cook

can’t hear it, but the sound from this

new style is incredible.” By B&O
Play, £399. beoplay.com
WISH LIST
Watch
“Patek Philippe
watches offer the best
Grooming Sam Cooper using Lab Series and American Crew

movement on the
market, so I’ve always
wanted one. I’m sporty,
so I’m drawn to this
style’s rubber strap.”
Aquanaut 5164A,
£28,142. At Chrono24.
chrono24.com

Trainers
WISH LIST “I’ve always liked
Fragrance Reebok pumps
“I like how this fragrance is because I was around
hard to come by, so it’s very when the first ones
much under the radar. When came out. I also wear
I tell people what I’m wearing, Balenciaga Speed
it’s rare they’ve heard of it.” trainers and Adidas
By Escentric Molecules, £65. Yeezy Boosts.”
escentric.com £130. reebok.co.uk

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 157

 ith
a n ar chitect w ts
How tinen
two con
feet on g on the past
is drawin he future
t
to build rd-looking
ou tw a
for
uwaitis
young K

IN G
VA
ED AL
ITE
DB IE US
Y AA
RO T TH
NC Y MA
AL HB
LO AP
W GR
O
OT
PH

3
1

F
rom the Córdoba mosque to Kuala Lumpur’s minaret-tipped
Petronas Towers, from west to east, and across the centuries,
architecture has always been the most influential of the Islamic
arts. In this reimagining of the traditional courtyard (or sahn), Madrid/
Kuwait firm AGI have shed light on contemporary visions of the form.
The clients, a Kuwaiti couple, wanted to make a statement, with their
4 home in Kuwait City. Known as the Rock House, its “folded-origami”
exterior certainly achieved that. But another statement is hidden
inside, one that speaks to the way today’s young Kuwaitis view them-
selves. Where the privacy and introversion provided by the sahn was
once important, the international outlook of recent decades brought
Western architectural tropes. But many of AGI’s Kuwaiti clients, typ-
ically thirtysomething couples who have worked or studied abroad,
“want to go back to the roots of their culture”, says the practice’s
1. Planters by Vondom, from £240 each.
At Ambiente Direct. ambientedirect.com award-winning co-founder Joaquín Pérez-Goicoechea. Hence, this
2. Sunlounger by Vondom, £1,320 each. remarkable sahn. “It’s a modern conception of the courtyard that
At Ambiente Direct. ambientedirect.com still relates to the client’s traditions,” says Pérez-Goicoechea. By
3. Elephant by Eames, £175. At The Conran Shop.
theconranshop.com
accidents of geography, history and geology, Kuwait occupies a
4. Armchairs by Vondom, £360 each.
defining place in the Middle East. Thanks to Pérez-Goicoechea
At Ambiente Direct. ambientedirect.com and his clients, so does its architecture. AC agi-architects.com

158 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

STATE OF THE T Galaxy S7 by Samsung
Win: Samsung has created a phone you can practically
scuba in: it’s waterproof up to 1.5 metres for up to 30

SMARTPHONE
minutes. The Super Amoled screen boasts a pin-sharp
577ppi too (the iPhone 7 boasts just 326ppi).
Fail: Samsung’s latest still feels plasticky in the hand,
despite actually being metal. And with only 32GB of storage,
it feels tight in these data-hungry times (though you can
expand via the MicroSD slot). From £523. samsung.com
Not long ago there were (realistically) only +++++++,,,
two or three phones to pick from. But with
iPhone facing competition, HTC improving,
and Google’s Pixel usurping, we test the
best smartphones currently on sale
E D I T E D BY CHARLIE BURTON & STUART McGURK
P H OTO G R A P H S BY MATTHEW BEEDLE

S Pixel by Google
Win: Google’s flagship doesn’t
disappoint, from the slick
design to the speedy processor
to the fingerprint sensor on the
back (which feels weird at first,
but which soon makes any other
method feel awkward) to the
brilliant speakers. But the big
plus here is the voice-controlled
Google Assistant, which could
soon be your portal to not just
the internet, but all your
smart-home (you’ll get
them) devices.
Fail: The battery life, like the
iPhone 7, isn’t the best. And for
Google’s new flagship phone,
not being water-resistant is a
major downside, while the S Xperia X by Sony
block of glass on white on the
Win: The Sony Xperia X’s camera is the best of the bunch here, boasting 23 megapixels. And
back by the fingerprint scanner
yet, this comes with a caveat: the hardware is great, but the software (such as Sony’s Predictive
(over metal) gives it a patchy
Hybrid Autofocus for things on the move) is very much hit and miss. The result is a camera that
look on its rear. From £599.
beats its rivals hands down… if you know how to use it.
store.google.com
+++++++++, Fail: The centrally placed side power button doubling as a fingerprint scanner is a neat touch,
but the volume buttons placed beneath it makes adjusting volume awkward. And, generally,
we found the performance sluggish compared to rivals. From £359. sony.co.uk
++++++,,,,

160 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

S HTC 10 by HTC
Win: The HTC is a beautiful phone. Super-sleek
and remarkably light for its size, it feels fantastic
in the hand and knocks the socks off everything
but the iPhone. Add in brilliant speakers (the
best we tested), the ability to record in 4K, plus,
most remarkably for an Android, Apple AirPlay
compatibility, and this phone gives Apple and
Google a run for their money.
Fail: There’s not a lot to pick fault with, but the
main one would be the camera, which is fine,
but nothing more. And it just lacks the killer
features of the iPhone (water-resistant) or Pixel
(Google Assistant). From £489. htc.com
++++++++,,
S Moto Z Play
by Motorola
Win: The best thing we can say
is that it’s extremely affordable.
That’s not to denigrate it. It’s
around £230 less than the
iPhone and perfectly
serviceable. The main speaker,
although quiet, produces a nice
timbre and the handset can be
customised with “Mods” that
snap onto the back with
magnets. These include a
Hasselblad camera, a JBL
speaker and a projector.
Fail: The design is a shame. The
camera system juts out of the
back like a pound coin and it’s
hard to differentiate between
the volume and lock buttons on
the side of the handset. What’s
more, the fingerprint scanner
looks like a home button but
isn’t. From £370. motorola.co.uk
+++++,,,,,

S iPhone 7 by Apple
Win: Apple’s seamless slab of
jet-black brilliance feels more like
a stone than a smartphone. The
battery lasts (slightly) longer and it’s
lighter and neater than its rivals, but
the key improvements here are the
new waterproofing (not dunkable but
heavy splashable) and the low-light
camera, which is the best on test.
The face-recognition photo-sorting
is also hugely impressive.
Fail: The battery life could still
be better and, unlike the Samsung,
this one isn’t fully waterproof.
From £599. apple.com
+++++++++,

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 161

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X Mate 9 by Huawei
Win: This is a big phone and it
packs a punch. Ask it to play
music through the stereo
speakers and it does so with
incredible volume (the loudest
on test) and has great timbre
to boot. It also includes a rear
fingerprint sensor – nice touch.
Fail: Although on paper the
Huawei has a formidable camera
system – it has teamed up with
Leica on a dual-lens setup – we
weren’t impressed by the results.
It managed well in low light, but
the images were lacking detail.
£517. At clove.co.uk
+++++++,,,
S 3T by OnePlus
Win: This Chinese company has gained a reputation
for making excellent phones at a lower price. The 3T
is the successor to the well-received OnePlus3 and
is a solid option. It’s nicely designed, responsive and
can blare out music at a decent volume.
Fail: For most people, the camera is crucial but –
in our low-light test – OnePlus was the worst at
picking up detail in darkness. If you enjoy taking
pictures in clubs, bars and restaurants this will
prove frustrating. £399. oneplus.net
++++++,,,,
PLUS-SIZE
MODELS
Time was, large phones were known
as ‘phablets’ – a term that signified
otherness. Now, their bigger screens and
better specs have brought them firmly into
the mainstream. We judge the five best...
LAB
W iPhone 7 Plus
by Apple
Win: Between the Apple,
Samsung and Google
handsets, it’s almost too close
to call. We ranked the iPhone
highest – only just – as it offers
waterproofing alongside
stereo speakers, a brilliant
camera (with optical zoom),
beautiful design and the fact
it’s iOS (personal preference).
Fail: There are two main
shortcomings. First is the lack
of a headphone jack, but a
bundled adaptor lets you plug
into the lightning port. The
second is the price – it’s the
most expensive on test. But for
that money you get 128GB of
storage. From £719. apple.com
+++++++++,
W Pixel XL by Google
Win: It offers an excellent user experience
and on the back there are two standout
features: the camera is flush rather than
protruding and the rear fingerprint sensor
is a convenient feature.
Fail: While it feels reassuringly secure in the
hand, it’s not a beautiful phone. Our model
also developed a number of tiny scratches.
From £599. store.google.com
++++++++,,
S Galaxy S7 Edge by Samsung
Win: Its speaker is seriously loud – we tested
all of the handsets with a decibel meter and
Samsung’s came second. And in low-light
conditions we found Samsung’s camera to
just have the edge over Apple and Google.
Plus it’s waterproof.
Fail: The mechanical home button should be
ditched for a capacitive version and it could
benefit from stereo speakers. Also, the
megapixel grade of the front-facing camera
needs boosting. £587. samsung.com
++++++++,,
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 163
Meet
the
Kooples hile co-ed collections might
 W be trending on the fashion
week catwalks of big-name
designer brands right now,
one label has been doing it
for years. Just under a decade ago, The Kooples
– French slang for “the couples” – was launched
by brothers Alexandre, Laurent and Raphaël
Elicha to provide men and women with elegant
Parisian staples. Now they’re looking to kick-
start a new revolution in the world’s fashion
cycle by switching from two traditional collec-
tions a year to 12 – each of which will remain
in store for one month and one month only.
“Everybody’s talking about ‘see now, buy
now’ – people don’t want to wait six months
or one year to get products,” says Alexandre,
41, speaking to GQ from inside the label’s
impressive headquarters in Paris’ 17th arron-
dissement. Its vast lobby – a sexy, seriously
on-brand vaulted space with a sweeping stone
staircase, wrought-iron skylight and deep-pile
charcoal carpet – is home to its biannual pres-
entations at Paris Men’s Fashion Week. “We
want to create a rendezvous for our clients
and we want people to feel that our story is
moving. When you are successful you feel you
can continue [in the same way], but you need
to change always.”
While the way The Kooples sells its garments
might be changing, the covetable core of the
brand remains the same: slim, rock-star tailoring
(the original blocks were designed with Savile
Row’s Patrick Grant), dark colours and gothic
patterns, all mixed with a hint of streetwear and
164 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
Back in 2008, brothers
Alexandre, Laurent and
Raphaël Elicha pre-empted the
current trend for gender-fluid
style by launching The Kooples,
a brand that brings Parisian
street chic to both men and
women. Now they’re ready to
shake up the system again...
STORY BY Nick Carvell
androgyny. The key to its success is that while
PHOTOGRAPH BY Arthur Delloye
The Kooples has that inherent European sleek-
ness, it’s hard to pin down the actual country
it’s from. “A lot of English people thought it was
Parisian and the French thought it was from
London,” says Laurent, 40.
It’s a vibe that’s worked. In less than ten
years, it’s won fans in cities as far-flung from
Trainers by The Kooples x Puma, £150 each.
thekooples.co.uk
its Paris hometown as Johannesburg, Sydney,
Seoul and Beirut – all of which host at least
one of the brand’s nearly 400 sleek black-
marble stores. Moreover, its ad campaigns have
become instantly recognisable, starring real-
life couples from across the world wearing the
new season selection with an indication of how
long they’ve been dating underneath.
And it’s not just in campaigns that The What do you like
Kooples believes in koopling. This season the about your
brand is amping up its sports credentials with
its first collaboration with Puma: two pared-
brothers’ styles?
Laurent on Alexandre: “The way he mixes
down, ultra-shiny pairs of trainers, one in black with bright colours.”
black and one in white, with only a metal Laurent on Raphaël: “The way he manages
skull logo on the back to signal The Kooples’ to give soul to clothes. Even when he
involvement. In short, if the sportsluxe trend wears something new, it feels like he is
could be sewn up into a shoe, this would be it: wearing an outfit that has lived many
exciting lives.”
something that’s going to slip on just as nicely
with tailored track pants as it will with your Alexandre on Laurent: “I like his unwavering
rebellion with the colour black.”
Photographs Roger Stillman
suit at the bar on a Saturday night.
Alexandre on Raphaël: “I like his vintage
Needless to say, while the brand frequently
spirit.”
features those in relationships, the clothes are
Raphaël on Laurent: “I admire his timeless
just as fantastic for any steadfastly solo men fascination with the colour black.”
who might be reading this. That said, Raphaël,
Raphaël on Alexandre: “I love the way that
30, is quick to note that, “In a Kooples outfit, he’s always one step ahead of anyone else.”
you’re not going to stay single for very long”.
Bachelors, you’ve been warned.
 FASHION

Brothers in garms (from left):

Alexandre, Raphaël and
Laurent Elicha at their Paris
HQ wearing The Kooples
SS17 line, 30 March 2017

‘You won’t
remain single for
very long in a
Kooples outfit’
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 165
What happens if
the establishment
turns its baleful
disapproval on
the tech giants?

Photographs Getty Images

 MICHAEL WOLFF

The old
empire
strikes
back
The revelation that Google and Facebook have
been selling adverts against extremist and
criminal content is provoking an old-media
backlash. Now, as the digital duopoly face
blue-chip boycotts and moral outrage, GQ
asks if national governments – including an
old-school Trump White House – are finally
ready to fight the power?
STORY BY Michael Wolff

ILLUSTRATION BY James Dawe

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 167

WELLMAN.CO.UK

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David Gandy

Made in Britain

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The primary purpose of commercial media, often
to the frustration – or even disgust – of writers
and editors, is to provide an effective, congenial
environment in which advertisers can sell their
products. Media’s vaunted cultural gatekeeper
function has not just been about intellectual
worthiness, but about order. Media strives to
maintain a system of taste and propriety, albeit
with just the right amount of surprise and
frisson, which comports with the sensibilities
of the chief marketing officers in whatever
consumer category an outlet might be hoping
will buy its advertising space. Media needs to
deliver a broadly acceptable audience; and it
has to at least seem that the advertiser might
make more from the ad than it costs. But, as
importantly, the advertiser – read here a large
public company with shareholders, conservative
boards, risk-averse CEOs and always-afraid-
they’ll-be-canned ad agencies – must never be
embarrassed by where its advert appears.
he backstory for any type of media
T  with any success at attracting adver-
tisers is a constant effort to care
and feed the client – to anticipate
and soothe the advertiser’s jangled
nerves and to allay any incipient concerns.
The internet, which began to turn itself into
an advertising-driven business in 1994 and in
2016 sold $60 billion worth, changed the rela-
tionship of media to advertiser. From the point
of view of writers or editors – who in this new
medium became “content creators” – this was
quite a revolution. The relative free-for-all of
the new medium and the low-cost barrier to
entry meant the gatekeepers lost considerable
power. Established media struggled to compete
in the digital world with new and impromptu
brands. Advertisers, too, had to follow the
constantly changing habits of these new digital
audiences. In a kind of sea change of fashion-
ableness and panic about with-it-ness, plus
genuine existential fear about this new media
behaviour, advertisers closed their eyes and
disregarded the safety of the gatekeepers.
Advertisers were encouraged in this new
devil-may-care attitude because there were
so many places to advertise, and audiences
became so fungible, that the cost of digital
advertising kept going down. Actually, the cost
virtually evaporated. By 2015, where a main-
stream consumer audience in mainstream
consumer media might cost between $10-$30
per 1,000 viewers or readers, in digital media
the price frequently went below $1.
This was quite a disaster for traditional
media operations, who invested heavily to
assure the accuracy, legality and restraint of
their products, as well as the comfort of the
advertisers. It was also an opportunity for
upstarts who could publish on the cheap.
In fact, publishing on the cheap became the
internet’s way of publishing. This included
The internet reflects
the depravity of
humankind and
sells advertising
against it
MICHAEL WOLFF
“user-generated content”, wherein digital
media could sell ads against content it did not
pay to create and took no responsibility for. It
included recycled or “aggregated” content, in
which an often specious news story might be
endlessly reposted free of vetting or checking.
It included user comments, a trillion words of
bile, calumny and nuttiness. There were, too,
vast amounts of stolen images, infringed intel-
lectual property and child porn. There was
fringe and mendacious politics. There were
dark conspiracies. There were complete and
utter fabrications. There was hate and cruelty.
Actually the internet had come to reflect all
manner of the depravity of humankind and
sold advertising against it.
Advertisers could stay conveniently ignorant
of where their ads appeared because, mostly,
they didn’t see their own ads.
Technology facilitated the disconnect of
an ad from an ever-worried-and-vigilant
publisher. Programmatic advertising, now
comprising most digital advertising placement,
was the process by which you sought an audi-
ence independent of a media outlet – that is,
the gatekeeper was not just downgraded but
disintermediated. You did not have to go to GQ
to reach a GQ reader, but, in a trackable digital
world, could find him in much cheaper places,
perhaps even disreputable ones.
Because costs kept sinking, practically
nobody benefited from this new model of
publishing, except a new sort of miscreant
publisher focused solely on clicks.
Oh, and Google and Facebook.
Both companies created network models of
publishing in which, rather than making the
business about creating media environments,
they made their business about providing
advertisers efficient access to media markets.
By 2016 they controlled more than 70 per
cent of the digital advertising market, without
having to incur any of the costs of creating
content or policing it. They were gatekeepers
who had abandoned their posts.
Of the many shocks and transformations
of the past year, one has been the power of
dystopian media, which aggressively contributes
to and encourages the sense of fractiousness,
antagonism, bitterness and enmity in the world,
propaganda for an illiberal age, quite a bit of
it having no basis in any conventional view
of reality or truth. A second shock is that this
virulent agitprop is funded by advertising.
Any website producing no matter what sort
of bilious or even violent outlook on life can
merely sign up for Google ad networks and
receive almost unlimited, albeit low paying, ad
placements next to vulgar, deceptive, violent
and outright criminal content. While we are
talking pennies here, it turns out that the more
spiteful and shocking the content is – and the
more targeted it is to media audiences,
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 169
 MICHAEL WOLFF
such as political audiences, apparently
hungry to reject established norms – the more
traffic it gets. Pennies soon become pounds,
with the publisher incentivised, in effect incen-
tivised by Google and Facebook, to make its
content ever more hostile.
In other words, advertisers – many of them
blue-chip companies with a vested interest in
the status quo, the health of the establishment
and the smooth running of political systems –
have become unwitting supporters of malice
and disruption. Google and Facebook, rather
more wittingly, have themselves become the
key beneficiaries of this malice and disruption.
Both companies, protecting their own status
quo, have largely taken a hands-off, see-
no-evil, what’s-a-boy-to-do approach to the
millions or trillions of pernicious posts that
they continue to sell advertising against. In
times past, advertisers would have used the
leverage of their money to take umbrage and
to demand a reasonable level of decorum.
But leverage is the key word. Google and
Facebook are so large that they have achieved
the status all publishers have dreamed of: they
are more powerful than any advertiser. WPP,
the largest advertising agency in the world,
one that might in the past have broken any
media company, remains, in fact, Google and
Facebook’s largest advertiser, but represents
only a few percentage points of the whole. Its
once mighty clout is now trifling.
On the other hand, it is worth pointing out,
at least for irony’s sake, that digital media
has truly achieved what early internet pio-
neers and their liberal supporters had hoped
for, a gatekeeper-less world where the body
politic can openly express itself. The expec-
tation, of course, was that most of this free
expression would be left-wing stuff, a Sixties
sort of renaissance through technology. Alas.
As it proved too late to stop Brexit,
and too late to stop Trump, it is, at best, a
mighty uphill battle to reform Google and
Facebook and stop the commercial support
of industrial-output venom.
aking up from something like
W the deepest sleep ever, large
advertisers early this spring
began to... well, phumpher
and whinge. After an article
in the Times identified the placement of blue-
chip advertisers next to racist, anti-Semitic
and extremist content, Havas, one of the
big ad agency holding groups, pulled its ads
from Google for a range of respectable UK
clients. Havas, however, spends £35 million
a year with Google on its UK clients, against
Google’s $90bn in revenue. A prominent list of
US advertisers, including Johnson & Johnson,
Verizon, Enterprise and AT&T – which found
some of its ads on videos of the preachings
170 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
of Anwar al-Awlaki, the al-Qaeda recruiter
killed by a CIA drone – announced they were
pulling their ads from Google-owned YouTube.
The loss of this revenue is less than a round-
ing error for the company.
While it is almost mathematically impossible
for such advertiser sensitivity to have any sort
of bottom-line impact on the tech advertising
behemoths, it is, of course, a growing public
relations problem for them.
What happens if established businesses, and
hence the greater establishment itself, turns its
baleful disapproval on the tech giants? Or have
the tech giants become the greater establish-
ment? Perhaps so. Still...
The interesting threat here against Google
and Facebook is not in losing a few billion
in advertising but in the possibility of
governments, now arguably the only true
countervailing forces to Google and Facebook,
suddenly getting in on the act. Microsoft once
loomed almost nearly as large as Google and
Facebook until it was levelled by courts and
regulators in the US and Europe.
Google and
Facebook are the
key beneficiaries
of online malice
and disruption
Can the old establishment strike back?
Curiously, while much of the rancour and
fake-news insidiousness has been seen, at
least by liberals, as directly connected to Trump
supporters, it is Trump and his administra-
tion that may in the end most bedevil the
tech giants.
Obama was effectively the president from
Google. In some kind of circa-2000 tech eupho-
ria and blindness he helped push for every
legal and business advantage tech might
imagine. Indeed, the large tech companies have
become a lucrative post-Washington game for
many former Obama White House operatives.
Likewise, Google and Facebook, along with the
rest of the tech industry, were aggressively
staffing up with Hillary Clinton partisans when
on 8 November the days of reliable govern-
ment protections unexpectedly ended.
Trump owes nothing to tech. His supporters
are about as un-Google-cool as you can get.
He’s 70 years old and can easily imagine a
life, even given his Twitter habit, without
tech. Television is his medium. What’s more,
his one billionaire tech supporter, Peter Thiel,
sees himself as quite the victim of internet
vileness, and took the step of suing Gawker, his
vile pursuer, into oblivion. Stephen Bannon,
the president’s chief strategist and self-styled
champion of the working man, many of whose
jobs tech has taken, speaks bitterly of “com-
panies with a $9bn market cap employing
nine people”. Trump, ever revenge-minded,
might well find it hard not to put tech back
in its place.
H
e could certainly do this right-
eously. The digital revolution has
not only resulted in an extraordi-
nary advertising duopoly stifling
nearly all competition, but the
effect for the consumer has been a pitiless
erosion in the quality of information. Fake
news may be the product of deeply unset-
tled times, but it is also the product of Google
and Facebook.
Blue-chip advertisers might take advantage
of Trump’s partiality to old-line businesses and
venerable brands – from when America was
great – and urge him to make at least adver-
tising great again with some truculent Trump
pushback against the tech platforms.
As a regulatory matter, Google and Facebook,
relying on significant amounts of govern-
ment spectrum, can fall within the purview
of the Federal Communications Commission,
which need only to find their actions against
“the public good” to restrain them. As a legal
matter, Google and Facebook have achieved
a remarkable pass by declaring themselves
common carriers rather than publishers. In this,
they are able to remain blameless for whatever
otherwise damaging and illegal content they
post and distribute – an argument happily
accepted by the Obama administration. Far
more effective then any one advertiser, or even
whole categories of advertiser, pulling out of
Google and Facebook may be, in the Trump
age, to sue the bastards.
Indeed, while advertising is a long way from
recovering its former clout, advertisers still
need to be able to trust the media they adver-
tise in. That’s a trust that in the past they’ve
willingly paid a good price for. That’s the
money that funds more or less reliable infor-
mation – not quite so free as the liberals have
dreamed, but better than anarchy. All in all,
that balanced partnership between media and
advertising may well be a system that is better
for everybody – other than Google, Facebook
and the emotionally disturbed.
MORE For these related stories,
FROM GQ visit GQ.co.uk/magazine
News Is Over... If You Want It (Michael Wolff, May 2017)
It Came From Manhattan! (Michael Wolff, April 2017)
The ‘Truth’ And Why Liberals Don’t Get It
(Michael Wolff, March 2017)
 this month on

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BECOME
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 Picture this:
Kate Moss in Los
Angeles by Arthur
Elgort, 1995,
exhibited at this
month’s Photo
London fair

Art, Television,
Music, Politics,
Films, Books
+ the best opinion
for the month
DON’T MISS ahead

18-21 May

Public image
Photograph Courtesy of Atlas Gallery, London

unlimited
PHOTOGRAPH BY Arthur Elgort

What: Photo London, 18-21 May Albdorf, Laura Pannack and Waheeda VR artwork,
ce

Where: Somerset House Malullah. There are special projects by “Thresholds”. A

in

Why: Photo London’s ability to attract fashion/art photographer Jürgen Teller, restaging of Henry Fox
Pr

blue-chip galleries and heavyweight film-maker Isaac Julien and new work by Talbot’s pioneering 1839
ll

photography’s biggest names, William

Bi

contemporary artists is testament to photography exhibition,

Klein and Taryn Simon. Early gems are a
Y

photography’s highly collectible status. Collishaw’s magical, immersive

B

feature of this year’s fair and the collision

ED

Among the 87 galleries from 17 countries, experience is a portal to the past:

IT

find emerging talent in the Discovery of antique and state-of-the-art is brilliantly ghost-filled and weirdly visceral.
ED

section, especially Asger Carlsen, Thomas exploited in Mat Collishaw’s new Sophie Hastings somersethouse.org.uk
 Bob Dylan: A Celebration
20 May Don’t miss! Ahead of Hay, get your eye – and ear – in at the Bath Festival at this gala evening of
music and discussion in the company of GQ contributors David Hepworth and Dorian Lynksey.
Expect much debate surrounding Dylan’s (belated) acceptance of a Nobel Prize, and the fact
that he’s given over three releases to the work of other songwriters… bathfestivals.org.uk

MEDIA

May the bridges EU burn light the way

The New European – a paper founded in the wake of last year’s referendum – has
proven an unexpected hit. GQ asks if pop-up publishing could save print media?
STORY BY Charlie Burton
HEN THE New European hit What Remains a redrawing of traditional political divides.
(from top): The

W
newsstands on 8 July 2016, two New European
“The Daily Mirror is a ‘paper of the left’, and
weeks after the UK voted to issues from 16 my contention is that more and more that’s
leave the EU, it was supposed December 2016; a meaningless statement,” he says. “The
10 March 2017; 10
to have a mayfly existence. February 2017; problem the Mirror’s got today is that two
The pro-Remain newspaper was intended as 28 October 2016 thirds of its audience want Brexit but the
a four-issue “pop-up” – after all, interest in Mirror wants to remain.” This
Brexit would wane eventually and print news opened a gap for his publica-
.
. .

is dying, right? tion – but there’s one thing he

y

At the time of writing, the New European wishes he had done differently.
is in profit and has just published its 39th “I wish we had launched it as
weekly edition. So far, it has listed Richard a magazine not a newspa-
Branson and AC Grayling as contributors; it per,” he says. Not only could
has made headlines for pieces by he have charged more, but its
Tony Blair and Alastair Campbell, current newsstand position
who was recently appointed its A
among daily papers makes its
editor-at-large; and, in March, it A
weekly front page quickly look
won the Chairman’s Prize at the out of date. “If it went on for
Press Awards. Its editor, Matt Kelly, another year or so we might
says that the £2 publication sells .
look at the format.”
around 20,000 to 25,000 copies New wards A , , ,
When the Scottish pro-
a week. This is not only a boon for Independence paper the
£2 Oct v

Archant, the paper’s publisher – it National launched in 2014, it

may also represent a wider oppor-
tunity for old media.
In hindsight, it’s not hard to
understand why the New European
has endured. The Brexit debate
remains as fierce as ever (Kelly
himself believes that we could
feasibly have a second referendum)
and the paper has broadened its
remit to cover other issues around
which European liberals have
rallied, from Donald Trump to Aleppo.
Perhaps the most important factor, however,
is the pop-up mentality. “We go for it every
week, completely, unashamedly and fearlessly.
I am not bothered if people stop buying it,” say
was dubbed “McPravda”. Kelly brushes off
the allegation that the New European could
be regarded as a propaganda sheet. “One
man’s propaganda is another man’s informed,
quality journalism and I’m in that latter camp.”
And what of the criticism that he’s preach-
ing to the choir? “If you go on Twitter now
you’ll find that half of the stuff [we get] is
pure abuse from Brexiteers,” he says. “The
fact that the Brexiteers are having to think
about us and that we’re in their faces, a stone
in their shoe, winding them up on a weekly
CV basis, that’s good.”
Kelly is offering food for thought not just to
Name: Matt Kelly Brexiteers but print media’s doom-mongers.
Age: 48 “If I was trying to launch [the New European
Photographs Andrew Testa; Getty Images

Kelly. “That lack of caution about how people Job: Editor, the only as] a website, we’d have been three
will react is what makes the paper successful.” New European; months trying to do it and we’d have lost
The only splash that gave Archant pause was chief content the heat.” The fast-to-market project relied
one comparing Trump to Hitler. Was it a cheap officer, Archant on Archant’s existing resources and print
shot? “I don’t mind cheap shots. What’s wrong CV: Kelly began distribution networks, which is why the model
with a cheap shot? A newspaper’s job is to be his career as a is an opportunity specifically for legacy media.
talked about.” reporter on the He cites the death of David Bowie as another
The New European bills itself as the “paper Formby Times in event that would have rewarded a pop-up.
1988. He later held
for the 48 per cent”. If it seems curious that “Print media suffers from low self-esteem,”
senior positions at
a publication such as the Mirror hasn’t tried the Daily Mirror
says Kelly. “In some cases we’ve forgotten how
to claim that mantle, Kelly puts it down to and Mirror Group great we are at doing things brilliantly.”
Digital. He joined
174 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017 Archant in 2015.
 BOOKS
I’d Die For You’s 18
Great minds go into battle stories by topic
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STORY BY Olivia Cole 27%
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N JUNE 2001, Israeli cardiac he has sought out everyone touched by what Princeton 16%

I
surgeon Dr Yaakov Lavie per-
formed a heart transplant
between a Palestinian victim
of Israeli violence and a dying
Jewish man. Swamped by reporters as he
emerged from surgery, Dr Lavie made this
comment: “A short time ago I was holding the
heart of an Arab Muslim in one hand and an
Israeli Jew’s in the other, and do you know
what? There’s no difference.” It’s a powerful sen-
timent of hope in the midst of despair, to which
Rowan Somerville clings in Beat (Lilliput Press,
£16), his account of his obsession with this story.
That same year, in the wake of 9/11, 20-year-
old Texan Brian Van Reet dropped out of college
to enlist in the US army. He served four years
in Iraq – during which time the former student
became a sergeant awarded a Bronze Star for
valour. His resulting short stories make his first
novel one of the most anticipated debuts of
the year. He prefaces Spoils (Penguin, £12.99)
with an Arabic saying, “Every woeful story
you listen to requires a brand-new heart,”
which prepares you for the harrowing terri-
tory explored in both his fiction and in Beat.
Dr Lavie carried out the transplant after the
Dolphinarium bombing in Tel Aviv in which 21
teenagers were killed by a suicide bomber. The
donated heart came from a Palestinian man
murdered in a revenge attack just hours after
the attack. Somerville creates his own memo-
rial in his account of the teenage victims. But
his story doesn’t stop there. Over ten years,
happened – from the relatives of the bomber,
Saeed Hotari, to the recipient of the heart.
He approaches all this out of personal obses-
sion, but worries constantly about the validity
of what he’s doing. In the dangerous positions
in which he’s put himself, these doubts become
even more pronounced. “I feel like I’m swim-
ming too far out in the sea.” His unease is not
unreasonable: at this point, his taxi driver has
fled, fearing for his life, and Somerville is out of
place, without a word of Arabic and his smart
carry-on case rattling “on the pebble-strewn
cracked pavements” of a Hamas stronghold on
An Arabic saying,
‘Every woeful story
requires a brand-new
heart,’ prepares you
for harrowing territory
the West Bank, where he has gone to try to
interview the suicide bomber’s family.
Beat is Somerville’s first nonfiction work,
and it’s his “baggage” that makes him such
an insightful guide: from his experience of
conflict in his native Northern Ireland, to his
understanding of his parents’ work (both were
pioneering heart surgeons) to his worry over
the legitimacy of his enterprise, forcing victims
to relive their heartbreak so that he can share
their story in a way that headlines never could.
Hollywood
I’d Die For You: And Other Lost Stories by
F Scott Fitzgerald (Simon & Schuster, £16.99)
A major literary find, I’d Die For You: And Other
Lost Stories concentrates on pieces F Scott
Fitzgerald tried to place in magazines while
struggling with near-bankruptcy. A quick
dissection of their topics reveals that Ernest
Hemingway’s remark that Fitzgerald was too
fixated on money and “the rich” to be taken
seriously as a writer isn’t strictly true...
The compulsion to understand what
motivates a jihadi fighter is also at the centre
of Spoils, which tells the story of the capture
of US personnel from the perspectives of both
captors and captive. And while Van Reet has
no shortage of extraordinary material, it’s his
dexterity as a writer which makes it a literary
event; his descriptions of civilian deaths
categorised as “collateral damage”, injuries
sustained in fire fights and a claustrophobic
depiction of what it’s like to be a prisoner
are authentic to the point of queasiness. Of
specialist Cassandra Wigheard, waking to find
herself a prisoner being offered penicillin by
a jihadi medic, he writes, “She could refuse to
cooperate... but to do that right now would
be in total contradiction to her will to live,
which is as stark and unvarying and immense
as a prairie.”
That phrase alone makes the case for Spoils
becoming an instant addition to the canon of
must-read war novels.

RECOMMENDS

Between Them: Remembering My Parents The Nothing

1 by Richard Ford (Bloomsbury, £21)
Get to know more about the man behind modern classic
The Sportswriter through this tender memoir of Richard
Ford’s mother, Edna, and father, Parker, and his childhood
in Jackson, Mississippi in the Forties and Fifties. Ford
writes his way into his parents’ love story before his birth,
on the road in the southern states of the Thirties as his
dad sold starch door-to-door. “Years on,” he writes, his
mother’s “fleeting references to that time made the Thirties seem like a long
weekend. A loose, pick-up-and-go life. Drinking. Cars. Restaurants. Dancing.
People they liked on the road. A life in the South. A swirling thing that didn’t
really have a place it was going.” This is a spare, honest, beautiful book that’s
a must for fans of its subjects’ Pulitzer Prize-winning son.
2 by Hanif Kureishi (Faber & Faber, £14.99)
Hanif Kureishi delivers a monstrous three-hander in this
novel of a frail film director. Waldo is safe in the care of his
much younger, strip-teasing wife, Zee, and a schedule of
collecting lifetime achievement awards until she starts an
affair with one of his hangers on, Eddie. A film writer and
freeloading flâneur, “one of those characters you see at
Soho screenings”, who this time goes too far in helping
himself. The scenario is grim – Waldo feels as if Zee “has released an
enormous rat” into his west London apartment – but Kureishi’s writing
reliably jumps off the page. As Waldo observes of Zee’s shoes, “I hold her
red-feathered mules in the highest regard. I like a woman to look as though
she just stepped on a budgie. I am that sort of man.” OC

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 175

 HAY FESTIVAL 2017

How to Hay: an
insider’s guide...
From 25 May until 4 June, all trails
lead to Hay-on-Wye for the Welsh
town’s 30th annual festival of literature
and arts. So book now, but first let
GQ set the scene for your stay
STORY BY Olivia Cole ILLUSTRATION BY Rod Hunt
ET THERE be neon in Wales – Tracey Emin appears at

L
Hay for the first time in conversation with GQ editor
Dylan Jones (Sunday 28th May). Among the other hot
tickets for this year are festival chair Stephen Fry in
conversation with chess grandmaster turned dissident
Garry Kasparov, Queen’s Brian May, actor Charlotte Rampling, comedian
Graham Norton and piano virtuoso James Rhodes, as well as a special
festival edition of Letters Live. hayfestival.com

3. The other 5. The best

WHO,
WHAT,
WHERE,
WHEN
1. For fiction
fans...
Festival director Peter
Florence is interviewing
the first American
Booker winner, Paul
Beatty, and there’s a
good chance you can
hear some of the likely
contenders for this
year’s prize: novelists on
the bill include a who’s
who of heavyweights
from David Mitchell to
Colm Tóibín, Sebastian
Barry and Ian Rankin.
Festival favourite, the
brilliant raconteur
Tóibín is known for his
highly entertaining,
roof-raising sessions,
so book early.
2. The unofficial
green room...
The Swan At Hay (01497
821188. swanathay.com),
the Georgian hotel
within walking distance
of the festival site, is
occupied by guest
speakers, so head to
its walled garden for
rosé and rubbernecking
in the sunshine.
River Café... ice cream...
During the festival,
Far from Hammersmith,
The River Café on the family business –
and Hay institution
banks of the Wye at
Glasbury (01497 847007. – Shepherds
wyevalleycanoes.co.uk/ (01497 821898.
river-cafe.html) is an shepherdsicecream.
idyllic boat house co.uk) is open till 9pm
every night, so if you
where you can hire bikes
and canoes as well as can’t get a table at The
dine on seasonal fare River Café you can boost
from local suppliers. your energy levels with
It’s the best lunch to be one of their 16 flavours.
found nearby. Even AA
Gill gave it four stars
6. And if that
when he visited. But you
doesn’t keep
them quiet...
need to book now.
Highlighting how
4. The basic services such
bookshop... as electricity remain
Everyone has a favourite a significant challenge
bookshop in Hay and for millions of people
you need at least a day in today’s developing
to do a trawl of them world, Jaguar Land
– but one of GQ’s Rover will construct
favourites is the Poetry a lantern-lit tented
Bookshop (01497 821812. “storytelling nook”,
poetrybookshop.co.uk). where children can listen
Founded in the to tales from around the
mid-Seventies by world and experience
poet and Sylvia Plath how the gift of light is
biographer Anne making a difference to
Stevenson, it has millions of families in
a vast collection, Africa. Partnering with
including beautifully development experts
designed editions by ClimateCare, JLR is
20th-century British delivering Lighting Up
and American poets, Lives – an innovative
from beatniks to poet programme providing
laureates, many of them solar technology to
collectible or signed, so 1.2 million people in
basically impossible to Kenya, providing clean,
leave behind. reliable energy.

176 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 1
Alien: Covenant Ridley Scott is back in the director’s chair for
Alien: Covenant, which is a sequel to Prometheus, which was a prequel FILM
19 May to Alien. The old prequel-sequel: classic. It sees Michael Fassbender’s
“synthetic” as the only survivor from the doomed Prometheus mission,
found by a new crew as seemingly the only inhabitant on an uncharted 2
planet. We’re guessing he’s not...
King Arthur:
Legend Of
The Sword
Out on 19 May
Guy Ritchie makes
a leap into the
Dark Ages and
comes out where
he usually does:
mid-Nineties East
End. It’s cheeky
chappie King
Arthur, up to
no good,
pinched by
a knight,
etc, etc…
“Raised on
the streets,”
says the trailer.
“Born to be king.”
Charlie Hunnam stars
as said king-to-be. He
most likely did not
have to read up.

Mount a comeback:
After 26 years, Twin
3
Peaks returns to resolve
TV’s longest cliffhanger American
Gods
On Amazon Prime
TELEVISION The worst-kept secret of recent years must be from 1 May
Jon Snow’s resurrection, having been used as a The long-awaited
adaptation of

Can networks sword pin-cushion by half of the Night’s Watch

in Game Of Thrones. Yet the creators tried their
best: insisting to all the press (including GQ) he
Neil Gaiman’s
fantasy novel sees
Ian McShane as

keep a tighter was dead (technically, he was). Kit Harington

was even asked to lie to his fellow actors. But
the bought-in
gravitas, playing
one of the gods
of the title – now

grip on his hair proved a giveaway: as our cover star, he

bemoaned the GOT barnet, only to keep it when
sidelined in American
life and gearing up
to fight the new

cliffhangers? he was apparently done with the role. Busted.

The Walking Dead went one step further
when a cliffhanger saw one of the show’s
gods (Gillian
Anderson
plays
Media). If
TV’s spoiler-prone series most popular characters, Glenn, fall into a it follows
Gaiman’s
need to keep a lid on zombie hoard. The show then went several book, it
episodes without picking up his storyline, won’t be
showstopping finales even removing actor Steven Yeun’s name from
half as silly
as it sounds.
STORY BY Stuart McGurk the credits to hint at his demise. (His subse- 4
quent survival was to prove a mere reprieve:
HEN IT returns later this next season, baseball bat to head, delete credit.) Wonder
Woman

W month, Twin Peaks won’t just

count as a remarkable come-
back for creator David Lynch,
it will mark the culmination of
Netflix mostly circumvents leaks by dumping
entire series online in one go, but House Of Cards
gave them a dilemma when Kevin Spacey’s Frank
Underwood pushed reporter Zoe Barnes (Kate
Out on 2 June
In what looks set to
be pretty much the
only good film
Warner Bros make
perhaps the greatest cliffhanger in TV history. Mara) in front of a train in the first episode of from their stable of
Twenty-six years after it was revealed in the last series two. Realising fans would cotton on if DC Comics films (Man
Of Steel, bad; Batman
episode that special agent Dale Cooper, played she wasn’t updating her Twitter account, she V Superman, worse;
by Kyle MacLachlan, had been possessed by a took a trove of pictures in her two weeks on the forthcoming
Justice League, on
demonic spirit (the show ended with him bleed- set to share over the next few months, as if still course to be the
Make Hay: ing and ramming his head repeatedly against a filming the series. No one suspected a thing. worst thing to happen
Don’t miss to cinema, ever) this
a thing
mirror; a crowd pleaser it was not) we’ll finally But the best-kept secret must be the one spin-off manages
during your learn his fate. Maybe he’s still there! even the actors don’t suspect. Westworld’s first what none of the
visit to the mega-hit Marvel films
This is why Lynch isn’t allowing press pre- series twist revealed two of the characters have: centre a film on
most
important views: no spoilers. It’s the latest measure to keep were the same person (one storyline was a a female super-hero.
event in cliffhangers secret in our leaky social-media age. flashback). Ed Harris, who played the older
the literary
calendar Gone are the days of 2002, when the creators character, wasn’t happy: “It was like, ‘Oh,
of Spooks could happily deep-fry the head of thanks for telling me!’” Still, he didn’t
their purported lead (Lisa Faulkner) in episode give the game away, did he?
two. Now, shows must go above and beyond. Twin Peaks is on Sky Atlantic from 22 May.
 MUSIC

Between
the devil
and the
deep blues
Nick Cave’s new 30-year
retrospective elevates a
lifetime of meditations on
sex, death and God to the
ranks of the divine
STORY BY Dorian Lynskey

NE OF the most intense

O
moments I’ve ever seen on
stage took place toward the end
of Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds’
performance at Glastonbury
in 2013. The set was already charged with
menace when the band kicked into “Stagger
Lee”, Cave’s gleefully obscene take on the
old blues myth. Cave spotted a white-robed
woman in the audience, a saucer-eyed Lady
of Shalott, and sang the gruesome lyrics to her
like a cobra hypnotising its prey. It was such an
extraordinary episode – sinister,
erotic and mesmerising – that
some wrongly assumed it had
been staged. It was like a scene
from a Nick Cave song.
The new album, Lovely
Creatures, is Nick Cave & The
Bad Seeds’ first career retro-
spective since 1998. That last with the timeless piano I’m On Fire” didn’t so much overshadow the
compilation seemed to conclude ballads of The Boatman’s album as repudiate it: a volcanic eruption that
a neat narrative arc. The former Call (1997). Around that rained down fire and ash for 15 hair-raising
frontman of Australian post- time, he quit booze and minutes. He wasn’t settling into a stately
punk hellraisers The Birthday drugs and met his wife, middle age after all. Abattoir Blues/The Lyre Of
Party had evolved into a unique songwriter Susie Bick, seemingly cementing the old cliché Orpheus (2004) and Dig!!! Lazarus, Dig!!! (2008)
and performer with a fiendishly vivid imag- of the renegade reformed, but Cave does not reconnected with the berserk in a way that was
ination and a turbulent reputation, edged subscribe to clichés. richer, funnier and wilder than before, Cave
towards respectability (his Kylie Minogue duet He only seemed calmed for a little while, unspooling his lurid visions like a beat-poet
“Where The Wild Roses Grow” was a Top 20 until the very last song on the otherwise preacher. Last year’s eerie, wounded Skeleton
hit in 1995), and settled into solemn maturity underwhelming Nocturama (2003). “Babe, Tree, recorded after the loss of his teenage son,

Gorillaz Perfume Genius Mac DeMarco

HUMANZ (PARLOPHONE)
NEW Damon Albarn and Jamie
RELEASES Hewlett’s animated band
has evolved over 17 years
into an all-star jamboree.
This time guests as diverse as Grace Jones,
Vince Staples and Ben Mendelsohn join
forces on a muscular record that combines
partying and protest. Out now.
NO SHAPE (MATADOR)
Mike Andreas has outdone
himself on his fourth album
of high-drama art-pop.
No Shape has a strange,
intense beauty in which you’ll find echoes
of George Michael and Prince as well as
Owen Pallett and Anohni. A spine-tingling
swoon of a record. Out on 5 May.
THIS OLD DOG
(CAPTURED TRACKS)
Few singer-songwriters
are as nonchalantly well-
adjusted as Canadian Mac
DeMarco. Like a chilled Paul Simon, he
performs rippling folk-rock about hurting
and healing as if he’s lying in a hammock
on a sunny afternoon. DL Out on 5 May.

178 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017


Sad songs say so much:
Nick Cave in 2016’s One
More Time With Feeling
by Andrew Dominik
was another unpredictable late masterpiece.
This September, The Bad Seeds will headline
London’s O2 Arena for the first time, eight days
after Cave turns 60.
Lovely Creatures implicitly makes the case for
Cave as the post-punk generation’s answer to
Dylan, Cohen and Cash in terms of longevity
and gravitas. Like them, he refutes the assump-
tion that rock artists must soften and wane
once their demons have retreated. By writing
these later records, along with novels, screen-
plays, movie scores, essays and two albums
with his garage rock band Grinderman, on
a nine-to-five schedule while raising a family,
he came to embody Flaubert’s maxim: “Be
regular and orderly in your life, so that you
may be violent and original in your work.”
The full boxset, in all its gorgeous multimedia
glory, clarifies Cave’s evolution as a songwriter.
Early classics such as his breathless death
row soliloquy “The Mercy Seat” or “Tupelo”,
The Prince Of
Darkness returns
O2 On 30 September 2017, Nick
Cave & The Bad Seeds will play
The O2 Arena in London as part
of an eight-week European tour.
his apocalyptic retelling of the birth of Elvis
Presley, are tremendous feats of storytelling
that dramatise Cave’s obsessions (sin, justice,
God, sex, death, the war between good and
evil) through fiction, waist-deep in the south-
ern gothic swampland of William Faulkner and
Flannery O’Connor. His later work is stranger
and more original, propelled by pungent lan-
guage rather than by narratives, collapsing
together the real and the surreal. In One More
Time With Feeling, Andrew Dominik’s docu-
mentary about the making of Skeleton Tree,
Cave says: “I wrote stories and they seemed to
hold things together in a part of my life when
things needed to be held together. But I don’t
believe in the narrative any more. I don’t actu-
ally believe that that’s what life is like.”
The boxset also drives home the importance
of The Bad Seeds, that fabulously grizzled crew
who give the impression that Cave recruited
them from a grimy string of dive bars, boxcars
Lovely Creatures
makes the case for
Cave as the post-punk
generation’s answer to
Dylan, Cohen and Cash
and jails. Often mislabelled as a solo artist,
Cave is really a superlative bandleader who
knows how to find and retain maverick talents.
Following Blixa Bargeld and Mick Harvey, his
current chief accomplice is Warren Ellis. Cave
and Ellis’ experimental soundtrack work has
given The Bad Seeds a whole new vocabulary,
which unlocks a subtler kind of intensity. They
know when to simmer and when to boil. On
one of these quieter songs, 2013’s “Push The
Sky Away”, Cave provides an artistic manifesto
of sorts: “And if you feel you got everything
you came for/If you got everything and you
don’t want no more/You’ve gotta just keep on
pushing/Push the sky away.”
Lovely Creatures spans 30 years of constant
change but its best songs all do what that
“Stagger Lee” performance did: they suspend
reality by sucking you into a singular imagi-
nation. Indeed, they cast that spell on Cave
himself. I once asked him if he ever felt like an
actor when he was performing. “No, I don’t,
actually,” he replied. “It’s more like the other
way around. When I’m not singing the songs,
I feel like I’m acting and trying to work out
how I’m supposed to be. But on stage I feel
this overwhelming sense of being that person
I always wished I could be.”
WHAT’S GOING ON?
ASK THE
INTERN
Cannelle Bencherqi, 22
A&R INTERN AT ATLANTIC
RECORDS, LONDON.
Best thing about my job: I get to hear all the
best songs before they get released.
From: Gien, France.
Current living situation: I share a flat in
London’s Shoreditch with my boyfriend and
best friend.
Favourite mode of transport: Cycling – you
stay fit and never get stuck in traffic.
Friday night haunt: I like to go out and try
new burger places in London. My favourite so
far is Patty & Bun’s Smokey Robinson burger.
Favourite website: supbowie.com tells you
what David Bowie was doing at your age.
Top tech: I love VR glasses. You can go on
rollercoasters, skydive or get lost in haunted
houses with zombies that seem way too real.
Favourite podcast: The Brilliant Idiots by
Andrew Schulz and Charlamagne Tha God.
Favourite musician: At the moment I only
have eyes for Twenty One Pilots – Tyler
Joseph is a great songwriter and producer
and they’re the best thing you’ll see live.
Favourite TV series: How I Met Your Mother
always puts a smile on my face and the
22-minute episodes suit my busy schedule.
Favourite film: The Boat That Rocked. Its
portrayal of British music culture inspired
me to move to London.
Gig to look forward to: Kings Of Leon at
British Summer Time on 6 July.
Album to look forward to: Arctic Monkeys
are currently writing in Sheffield and we
haven’t heard from them in a while now...
Festival tickets booked: Reading.
Rising star to watch: Pop star Joe Jury.
Best celebrity selfie: I was walking around
Paris in 2013 and bumped into Jared Leto.
I’ve been listening to his band since I was 13,
so I had to get a picture.
Date in the diary:
13 May
The Pink Floyd Exhibition:
Their Mortal Remains at
the V&A Museum, London
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 179
 POLITICS
Britain must not fall into
Trump’s anti-Islam trap
The threat of terror is all-too real, but the White House’s
‘clash of civilisations’ rhetoric plays into the hands of
Islamic extremism and its murderous narrative
STORY BY Matthew d’Ancona
N THE morning of the
O
Westminster terrorist attack –
hours before Khalid Masood
killed four people and injured
more than 50 others – I over-
heard a radio talk show in which there was much
complaining about the so-called “laptop ban”.
As a result of this new restriction, airlines
travelling to the UK from Turkey, Egypt,
Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Tunisia and Lebanon
are obliged to confiscate laptops, iPads, Kindles
and similar electronic devices from passengers’
cabin baggage and transfer them to the hold.
This was all Donald Trump’s fault, the voices
on the radio grumbled: just because the pres-
ident’s travel ban on migrants from mainly
Muslim countries has been thwarted, we can’t
now watch Broadchurch or Stranger Things
while we’re travelling. And then, a few hours
later, Westminster Bridge was suddenly the
scene of unspeakable carnage.
How are the two related? Because Trump, as
only he can, has contaminated the proposition
that we are living in a time of war – inter-
mittent, multifaceted, and unprecedented in
form, but war all the same. His executive order
to suspend travel to the US from seven (and
then six) predominantly Muslim countries and
to halt all refugee admissions has twice been
blocked by the courts, both in its original and
revised forms.
As the judges have noted, it is clear from
statements made by the president and his sur-
rogates that the ban is anti-Islamic in intent,
and therefore unconstitutional. One of the
many side effects of this ham-fisted plan has
been to cast suspicion upon all security meas-
ures and to reframe the war on terror as a war
on a particular religion. Needless to say, this
is precisely what the jihadis want.
I have long been hawkish about the steps
we have to take to combat 21st-century ter-
rorism. In its strategies, Islamic extremism has
been remarkably adaptable, as shrewd in its
use of digital propaganda as it is geographi-
cally mobile.
In recent years, its methods have been low-
tech: cars and trucks driven through crowds in
Nice, Berlin and London. But the Islamists have
not given up on more sophisticated methods.
180 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
place time-limited safeguards that we would
not normally contemplate.
Unlike many others, I backed Tony Blair’s
failed attempt in 2005 to enable the police to
detain terror suspects without charge for up
to 90 days. I understand the case for the accu-
mulation of “metadata” to pre-empt terrorist
action and the need for WhatsApp and other
encrypted applications to be accessible to the
intelligence services. Yes, all such measures
involve a curtailment of civil liberties. But
that is a regrettable necessity when a society
is under attack – as ours, in case you haven’t
The laptop ban was inspired by intelligence noticed, still is.
that the jihadis were planning an airborne Much more important than such curtailment
attack using an electronic device stuffed with is the broader perception of what the war is,
explosives. A similar plot almost succeeded and what we are fighting. Since 11 September
last year when a bomb believed to have been 2001, there has been a determined effort by
hidden in a laptop on a flight in Somalia blew responsible politicians not to characterise the
a hole in the passenger cabin. conflict as a clash of religious civilisations,
As the greatest guide to the post-9/11 between the Christian West and Islam. One
world, author and lawyer Philip Bobbitt, should remember that George W Bush – so
has observed, the Islamists take advantage often caricatured as a trigger-happy evange-
of the “unique vulnerabilities of globalised, list – visited a Washington mosque only six
networked market states” and a “connectivity days after the destruction of the World Trade
that allows a cascading series of vulnerabilities Center. For 16 years, it has been fundamen-
to be exploited”. Accordingly, we have to be tal to the war on terror that Islam itself is not
equally nimble in our response, putting in under attack and that our Muslim compatriots
remain just that: fully fledged citizens.
192
TERROR ATTACKS: THE NUMBERS The Trump travel ban – still in legal limbo at
the time of writing – threatens to undermine
all that painstaking work. While every other
security measure taken by the West has
targeted terrorism rather than faith or ethnicity,
the signal that the president’s executive orders
have sent is cultural. Only a politician as
foolish as Trump could fail to see that this is
5620
the prize the Islamists have been seeking for a
Madrid 11 March 2004, 192 dead, 2,050 injured
generation. They call their enemies “crusaders”
London
7 July 2005, 56 dead,
– as though the multifaceted conflict in the
784 injured Middle East and on the streets of western
cities was, at heart, a war of religion. The
45th president has behaved exactly as the
terrorists want him to, a bull in the china
130
shop of religious sensibilities. What is a young
American Muslim to make of the fact that the
Paris 7-9 January 2015.
20 dead, 22 injured White House regards predominantly Islamic
35
nations as intrinsically hostile?
Paris November Brussels
22 March To return to the day of the Westminster
13 2015, 130
dead, 368 2016, 35 attack: even as Khalid Masood was prepar-
87 5
wounded dead, 300 ing his last maniacal stand, British people
injured
were arguing on radio that the laptop ban
was no more than a feeble attempt by the
Nice 14 July UK government to demonstrate solidarity
2016, 87 dead, with Trump.
434 injured
In fact, the ban has much more complex
12
origins. But they risk being eclipsed by the
overarching sense that this president has no
Berlin 2016 idea what he is doing and that Britain should
December not follow his lead. The greater peril is that
19, 12 London 23
dead, 56 March 2017,
we forget the bleak reality that this war will
injured 5 dead, 50 be part of our lives long after Trump’s presi-
injured dency is an unhappy memory.
 ART

Grayson Perry
sells out!
A timely new exhibition uses
contributions from the public to
explore the confused identities
of the warring Brexit tribes
STORY BY Adam Clayton

HE TITLE of Grayson Perry’s upcoming show

T
at London’s Serpentine Gallery is not what it
seems. The Most Popular Art Exhibition Ever!
may prove to be extremely well attended, but
“popular”, in this instance, has more nuanced
connotations. Political populism will be at the heart and soul
of this new outing, which explores the role of art in post-
Brexit Britain. It will also involve the populace: Perry has
invited the public to contribute images which will sit along-
side pieces of tapestry, print and sculpture.
Perry and I meet at his Islington studio and he shows me
the Brexit pots as works in progress. They’re nearly ready to
adopt some of the submitted images. Not that he received as
many as he was hoping for. “I put a video online with 200,000
views, I got 50 photographs back. What’s that all about?”
Perry and I both have a love of punk and these
pots have a punk impulse: they’re about anger and
they champion the amateur. Despite the small wouldn’t do it badly enough in the right way, they would
number of contributions, Perry found what do it bad in the wrong way in the right way.”
he received to be thought-provoking. “One That said, he’s not precious about the idea of art or roman-
of the most amusing observations is that tic about its power. When he started out, he says, art
Remainers are much better photographers,” seemed to have a big role to play in the avant-garde.
Photograph Getty Images Tapestry Courtesy of Grayson Perry, Paragon Press and Victoria Miro

he says. “Whether that’s something inher-
ent in a Leaver’s culture, that they’re not good
at taking photographs, I don’t know.” I ask him
which of the submissions were most memorable.
“The woman holding a Union Jack with her bare
pregnant stomach with ‘Brexit Baby’ drawn on it
in big black letters,” he says. “That’s an image of
fecundity and femininity, and I’ve always found
the Union Jack a harsh image because of its associations.
But then to write ‘Brexit Baby’ across your stomach,
it’s like, ‘Oh!’”
Perry has always been one to get involved rather
than commentate from afar, and this extends to
his approach to art. Unlike certain artists, he
still makes everything himself. “I can never
let anybody else make my pots because they
He believes that’s less true now. “The cutting edge is
probably now in some South Korean boy’s bedroom,
it’s not happening in the cafés of Montmartre.” And
he has never been shy about using art to earn a living.
“Very early on in my career a friend of mine accused me of
selling out because I was literally selling stuff. I said, ‘F***
off, I don’t want to be an impoverished squatter all my life,
money is part of the equation.’”
Which brings us back to the title, The Most Popular Art
Exhibition Ever! “It’s this idea that as soon as you become the
Art as life:
Grayson establishment, then you’re irrelevant,” says Perry. “I want to
Perry in say to them, ‘Actually, I think you’re the one that’s got the
Australia,
2015; (top) nostalgia now.’”
Death Of The Most Popular Art Exhibition Ever! is at the Serpentine
A Working
Hero,
Gallery from 8 June – 10 September 2017. Kensington
2016 Gardens, London W2. serpentinegalleries.org

DON’T MISS
What: Giacometti
10 Where: Tate Modern, 10 May – 10 September 2017
Why: Alberto Giacometti’s skeletal, elongated figures are among
the most instantly recognisable artworks in the world, yet this is
the UK’s first retrospective of the artist in 20 years. Tate Modern
May reasserts Giacometti’s place alongside Picasso, Matisse and Degas
as one of the greats of the 20th century. Highlights include “Head
Of A Woman (Flora Mayo)” and “Walking Man I”. tate.org.uk
What: Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion
27 Where: V&A, 27 May – 18 February 2018
Why: Cristóbal Balenciaga changed the shape of
the female silhouette. At his peak, the Spanish/
Basque couturier pioneered the tunic, baby doll, shift and
May sack dresses. Alongside iconic garments, the exhibition reveals
archive sketches, photographs and catwalk footage, as well as
a collaboration with artist Nick Veasey. SH vam.ac.uk

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 181

 FUTURE-PROOF YOUR CAREER p.184 SEX p.186 BEAR GRYLLS p.188 PERSONAL TRAINING p.189 HUGO RIFKIND p.191

Escape
daily g the
rind
Drop in and check ou
skateboarding kit, fr t the best
om trucks and
decks to caps and T-
shirts Page 190
N
ERSO
HEND
Photograph Getty Images

Y PAU L
ED B
EDIT

All above board: Pro skater Tristan Rennie tears up the bowl
at the Vans Park Series, Manly Beach, Sydney, 2 March

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 183

 FUTURE-PROOF YOUR CAREER
Are you about to be
replaced by a robot?
In the next decade, millions of British workers will be at the
mercy of technology. Here, GQ downloads the tips to ensure
you’re not left out in the cold when the machines take over
So, do you want the good news or the
bad news? OK. The bad news is that the
robots are coming for our jobs. Not the
jobs of blue-collar production-line grunts.
They’ve got those already. Our jobs. Bank
Of England governor Mark Carney warned
last year of new technology mercilessly
“hollowing out” traditional middle-class
service industries, taking away 15 million
UK jobs in the next decade, and most
experts agree with this diagnosis. One
such is Alec Ross, a former aide to Hillary
Clinton who now advises corporations,
investors and government leaders on
technology and innovation. But,
conversely, he also has the good news.
Commit to lifelong learning
1  The most important change of all, accord-
ing to Ross. “If you think your education
stops the day you leave university you are
wrong,” he declares. “It used to be the case
when you left university you had sufficient
formal education to sustain yourself in the
workplace for 30 years. That’s absolutely not
true any longer. The pace of change is such
that what you have to do is be in a constant
cycle of both formal and informal learning.”
Get used to coding
2
  “It’s not about becoming a computer
scientist,” says Ross. “It’s understanding
the basis that much of the future is being built
on. It’s like knowing how to read a spreadsheet.
You should be able to do this even if you’re
not an accountant because it’s a form of basic
literacy in the economy. Think of computer
coding in the same way. It’s a form of basic
literacy in most of the industries of the future.”
Travel
3
  “If you are at the start of your career
or have just left university then get
as many old-fashioned ink stamps in your
passport as possible,” Ross counsels. But he’s
thinking emerging economies rather than the
gap-year standards. “Because as important as
the question of what you do is the question
184 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
“I don’t think it’s time to curl up in the
foetal position,” says Ross, whose book
The Industries Of The Future (£9.99, Simon
& Schuster) has been described as a
portable TED conference at which you’re
seated next to the smartest guy in the
room. “I think the developments in science
and technology contribute to both the
promise and peril of the future.”
But we’re going to have to change.
“In the workplace of the future, one of
two things is happening,” warns Ross.
“Either you are telling a machine what to
do or a machine is telling you what to do.”
So, if you’re not yet ready to work for
our new metallic overlords...
of where you do it. There are many countries
that are going to see fascinating expansions
of their economy and you can be a part of
that growth.”
Learn across different fields
4
  “It’s very important to understand
things that are scientific and techno-
logical. However, to be a leader in the future
industries you will need to combine it with
skills that we associate with the humanities,
from communication skills and emotional
intelligence to an understanding of things like
behavioural psychology and economics.”
He cites Mark Zuckerberg as the best
example of this. “People think of Facebook as
being the product of a brilliant computer sci-
entist, but Facebook is as much a product of
his expertise in behavioural psychology as it
is computer science.”
Head for the new horizons
5  In his book, which surged in sales
following President Trump’s elec-
tion, Ross outlines the key areas of expan-
sion over the next 20 years. They are
robotics, artificial intelligence, the com-
mercialisation of genomics, big data, cyber
security and the codification of money and
trust. But there will also be less expected
ones. “There’s never been a better time to go
 LIFE

into psychology or psychiatry,” he argues. LAST ORDERS AT THE BAR?

“In a world where we’re handing over so much
Why you should the internet to become
of our humanity to computer code, I think that
think twice about visual and navigable and
there is something human that rebels against becoming a lawyer therefore appealing to
this. Humans are going to need to almost repair Although a career in law
non-engineers. I think
in the face of this. So the demand for psychol- has traditionally been blockchain technology is
ogists and psychiatrists will shoot up and their seen as a safe route to a like HTML in that it will
six-figure salary, this is be this invisible piece of
virtue and value will be ever more accepted.
about to change. “Unless software behind highly
I don’t see anybody being content to sit across trusted transactions.
you are a litigator
from a humanoid robot to provide a diagnosis arguing the case in front Currently, when buying
about what ails them psychologically.” of a judge, I think a lot and selling houses, the
of the work is simply process of transferring
going to be eaten by the asset takes about six
Master a new language (but don’t

6
  become a translator)
“In ten to 15 years’ time we will have
earpieces which will allow us to functionally
software,” argues Alec
Ross. Specifically, he
believes law is going to
be revolutionised by
weeks and thousands of
dollars of settlement
costs. Blockchain
technology will turn that
understand what’s being spoken to us in 100 blockchain technology, into six minutes and
different languages,” states Ross emphatically. best known for its role $50. Historically, the
in securing bitcoin engine of trust was the
“But in that time period great fortunes are going
transactions. But what guy in the white shirt
to be made by people who understand how to exactly is blockchain? and the red tie with the
navigate through frontier marketplaces.” “The simplest way of ink stamp. He conditions
And Ross is the first to acknowledge that thinking about it,” us to trust a transaction.
there’s a difference between translation and explains Ross, “is to Blockchain technology
remember the way that will enable a level of
communication. “I’ve done diplomatic and
HTML became the trust that the process
business deals with a translator where the visible layer of the of buying and selling a
translation has been perfectly good,” he internet. When HTML home will be little more
explains. “But if you want to be a real deal- was invented, it enabled than buying on eBay.”
maker it sure helps if you can connect and
engage with a person in their native tongue. BULLET POINTS
Languages are still vital, but the job of trans-
lator is on its way out.” { Taking the 973,000 employees,
man out of but that he was sick of
manufacturing... humans. Last year, on
Know that not everyone will be

7  “More manufacturing one day he replaced

a slave to the algorithm goods are being 60,000 employees
“In a world that’s ever more consumed produced in the US with robots.”
by computer code, that the humanities grow today than were in the
heyday of the Sixties. { Robot wars...
more important is just one of many contradic-
But we don’t need as “There was a lot of press
tions about the future. Given that noiseless many men with big about Donald Trump
algorithms will be increasingly telling us what shoulders to do it.” threatening a company,
to do, individualism becomes ever more impor- Carrier, to get them to
tant. A lot of people who are actually going { Droid rage... keep jobs in the US. After
to do best are those that stand their ground “Foxconn is the the deal, the Carrier CEO
company that makes our said, ‘Those jobs aren’t
against the push of algorithms.”
Samsung and Apple going to Mexico, but
In an increasingly digital age, Ross believes devices. When I spoke they’re not going to the
creativity will become more important, not to CEO Terry Gou he US either. They’re going
less. “Whether it is the visual arts or music, explained that he had to ’bots.’’’
as our world becomes more consumed by
zeroes and ones we all need art more, so
the skills that go into being a great artist
are going to be more cherished.”

 
Don’t panic

8 “I take an optimistic but well short of

Illustrations Mark Oliver

utopian view of what this technol-

ogy means,” muses Ross, as he reaches
for a science-fiction parallel. “Is the
Brain reaction:
Learning new skills future going to look like Mad
will help you stay Max or Star Trek? Neither. It’s
employed in the
technological age going to be somewhere in
the middle.” John Naughton
 Masked ball: The home of
Snctm is in Holmby Hills,
near the Playboy Mansion

black ballet tutus and Zorro masks. The club’s

SEX manager, “Mr Hedonism”, a former manager
of The Polo Lounge at The Beverly Hills Hotel,

Welcome to the LA takes our coats.

The living room is packed. It’s a swanky
cocktail party and people are chatting at the

pleasuredome bar. Men in tuxedos with “secret society”

Snctm pins on their lapels chat with women in
La Perla bras, garter belts and high heels who
are smokin’ hot. The theatrical masks make
Tuxedos, topless girls in tutus and sky-high membership fees everyone look kinky. It’s a spectacular scene,
mean Snctm is the hottest new elite sex club in Hollywood. a straight guy’s total fantasy.
Just don’t make eye contact with the celebrities... The house party looks like Cirque Du Soleil
meets a Victoria’s Secret fashion show. The
gorgeous young women outnumber the men
SNCTM is a super-secret sex party in Los wants people in creative fields, Snctm is more by six to one, and have obeyed the lingerie
Angeles, California, that promises evenings of concerned with how wealthy prospective male dress code. It’s a Hollywood “pretty people”
“sensual utopia” with “like-minded elitists”. members are and how “aesthetically appealing” party filled with aspiring actresses, a couple of
I have been invited to the inner sanctum under the women are. Men pay for a £9,800 yearly TV stars and the only-in-Hollywood “Maws”
a few strict conditions: that my date and I wear membership or a £61,000 “Dominus” VIP mem- (model/actress/whatever).
masks; that I wear a gown or lingerie; that he bership. Women get in free through an online A beautiful naked woman on all fours
wears a tuxedo; and that I do not reveal the application process. If they’re hot, they’re in. steadies herself on the floor as she becomes
names of the “A-list celebrities” who will be If not, they can’t even pay to get in. Welcome a submissive “human drink cart” with bottles
having sex at the sexy sex party. to Hollywood. of expensive Bourbon resting
Snctm is a members-only club run in much Upon our arrival at midnight, on a shelf on her backside.
the same way as Soho House. While Soho House the party is in full swing. People drink champagne,
The “Snctm Mansion”, listed chatting nonchalantly,
at £3.7 million, is located in between watching

6 to 1
The number of women to men in Snctm.
in Holmby Hills, near the
Playboy Mansion. My date
and I are greeted at the front
a guy in a black cape
and mask bang the
living daylights
Women don’t pay a fee to join. door by two topless girls in out of a woman

186 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017


in a white Venetian mask on the living room
floor. Meanwhile, the topless girls in tutus do
pirouettes around the living room.
A man on the couch pulls down the zip
of his tuxedo trousers and gets a blow job
from a girl who looks 25 years younger. Two
women take turns going down on each other in
front of a fireplace. My date says, “Thanks for
inviting me to the pagan Hollywood sex cult.
I love LA.”
I was invited by Snctm’s sex-party guru,
Damon Lawner, a handsome 45-year-old
£61,000
The price of Dominus VIP membership,
which ‘makes fantasies happen’.
ex-party promoter and former real-estate
agent. Lawner says he lost it all in the 2008
recession and left LA for Bali with his wife
and kids to stay with his father, who raised
him in a hippie commune near San Francisco.
With no job prospects, Lawner began throwing
Photographs Alamy; Snctm
high-end sex parties for wealthy businessmen
at resort hotels. “The grand object of Snctm is
the eroticism of the human race,” he tells me.
Lawner says he got the idea from watch-
ing the movie Eyes Wide Shut. “I was going
through a similar thing myself, struggling with
being monogamous with my wife. But I was
madly in love with her and had two kids.” In
the end, they broke up. He started Snctm, says
he was heartbroken for a while, but looks like
he got over it as he makes out with Playboy’s
Miss November.
“You should go upstairs,” suggests one of
the club’s members. I ask Lawner what you
get extra with the Dominus membership and
he replies, “We make fantasies happen.”
“Do you ever pay people to make those fan-
tasies happen?” I ask.
”Paying for sex is so tacky,” he says. “We
have so many successful female applicants
who want to come to our parties. They want
to explore their erotic fantasies.”
Upstairs are two bedrooms with a bunch of
masked people piled on white canopy beds,
exploring their erotic fantasies. In the first
room, people watch a girl getting the best oral
sex of her life... from two other girls. A three-
some is happening with a girl on all fours orally
pleasuring one guy and getting ploughed by
a second. People are so friendly in LA.
More swinger party action was going on in
the “playroom”, a darkly lit attic-like space
with a bunch of futons on the floor. That’s
where I recognise my first “A-list celebrity”,
a British pop superstar who I’ve had a crush on
since I was 12. It’s like watching a celebrity sex
tape. Someone sitting next to me tells me the
girl is part of Snctm’s “erotic theatre” troupe.
As he fingers her ass, I make accidental eye
contact with the pop star. I give him a thumbs
up. He returns it with the thumb he isn’t using.
Couples are in various stages of getting it on,
and by this time it is a fully fledged orgy. A guy
in a tuxedo munches his date’s waxed mound,
and a woman in a Carolina Herrera gown she
told me she wore to the Academy Awards sucks
a man’s “Snctm member”.
Doggy style is happening to my right,
missionary to my left and there’s a sponta-
neous partner swap where a couple introduce
themselves to another couple before they do
full-on wife swapping. Tuxedo jackets pile up
on the beds and it looks like a cross between
an Oscars afterparty and an amateur porno.
The club now opens up its “soirées” to non-
members for £800. The latest Snctm event is
the “erotic dinner party” for £1,500 per couple.
It starts with an amuse bouche and frothy
“dessert” consisting of three girls in masks on
a dining table, slowly licking whipped cream
from between each other’s sweet spots. “I find
women doing this to be much more artistic,”
says Lawner.
The New York club is now open, and a third
will open in Cannes. Producer Brad Falchuk is
creating a scripted TV show about the surreal
Snctm sex scene. “With the New York fraternal
order,” says Lawner, “we continue together
on this path toward sexual enlightenment.”
Anka Radakovich snctm.com
LIFE
FERTILITY
Who’s the
daddy?
Increase your baby-making
chances with these top tips
designed to get everything
moving swimmingly
According to a study by the World Health
Organization, infertility success or failure is equally
down to men as it is women. Healthy sperm
includes count, morphology (structure) and
motility (movement), and some of that is within
your control. “Some men cut out all the things that
brings them any kind of joy and that’s no way to
make a baby,” says fertility expert Emma Cannon.
“It’s about taking the middle road.” Here are her
five tips for giving the boys a boost…
Eat well
Fertility can be negatively affected by too much
protein, fat, carbohydrate and dairy. However, just
eating certain foods high in antioxidants can
prevent oxidative stress and improve the health of
your sperm. “It’s not about ‘superfoods’,” says
Cannon. “It’s more about eating a balanced diet,
especially things such as pumpkin seeds and
walnuts. Water can also improve your sperm
count, while asparagus can do wonders.”
Decrease the heat
“The reason the testicles hang outside the body is
to keep them cool, and sperm does better when
it’s cool,” says Cannon. “Chefs, traditionally, have
been susceptible to fertility problems because their
testicles are quite near heat sources. Other
negative influences can include sitting with laptops
on our laps, wearing tight briefs instead of boxers,
or regularly using heated car seats.”
Hold the hedonism
Heavy alcohol consumption, cigarettes and drug
use can upset your fertility. “For guys in their
thirties and forties, it can destroy all their
serotonin, severely reducing sexual function,”
says Cannon.
Beware of chemicals
Pollution can negatively affect morphology and
motility. “Environmental pollution can impact the
shape of the sperm’s head and tail,” says Cannon.
Plastics, too, are a problem. “Things like Cellophane
are endocrine disrupters. We absorb all these
things into our cells and bloodstream. Heating
Cellophane while cooking, for example, can leak
xenoestrogen, disrupting the hormones.”
Have sex. A lot
There is a myth that saving your sperm for
ovulation time will benefit your chances. But
stagnant sperm can be problematic. “People get
into a cycle where they’re just having sex to make
a baby. It’s much better to have sex regularly so
the guy is continually renewing fresher sperm.” To
sum up: go for your life! Alex Godfrey
Fertile by Emma Cannon (Vermilion, £16.59) is
out now.
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 187
 BEAR GRYLLS: #25 HOW TO SURVIVE A
Never be
taken for
a fool
In a hostage situation,
resistance is anything but
futile. Face off your captors
with caution and courage –
but forget about compliance
WHEN we travel, we inevi-
tably encounter risks. That is
no reason not to explore the
more potentially dangerous
parts of the world, but it’s
essential to be prepared. The
threat of kidnap is small but
significant in many regions
where the more adventurous traveller might
go. I want to share with you some counter-
measures to kidnapping situations that will
give you the best chance of survival.
Your best chance of thwarting an abduction
attempt is in the first few seconds. You must
do everything you can to fight off your assail-
ant. Forget about compliance. Fight dirtily and
aggressively. Go for the eyes, the neck, the
genitals. Shout at the top of your voice. Do not
be taken quietly. Do not be a soft target. You
have a good chance of scaring off your abduc-
tor if your response is unexpectedly violent.
24 hrs
The first day of a kidnapping is the most
important period. If you’re to make an
escape attempt, you’re at your strongest
earlier on in your ordeal.
If your initial resistance fails, however, your
strategy must change. The first 24 hours of
a kidnapping are the most important. You are
likely to be moved several times in that period.
The more often you’re moved, the harder you
are to find. Moreover, if you’re to make an
escape attempt, you’re at your strongest earlier
on in your ordeal. You’ll have eaten and drunk
water recently, you’ll be in better physical
shape and you’ll be thinking more clearly. Your
condition is only going to deteriorate with time.
Escaping is hard. You have to stack the
deck in your favour. Now is the time to feign
compliance, because you don’t want your
abductor to think that you need extra restraint.
188 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
KIDNAPPING
Avoid eye contact, keep your head down and
appear submissive. If your abductors don’t
think you’re going to fight back, holes are more
likely to creep into their security.
Try to keep calm. Just as importantly, try to
keep your abductor calm. There is no benefit to
you in making them angry, nervous or violent.
Despite your undignified situation, you
should do what you can to appear dignified and
to build up a relationship with your kidnapper.
Don’t insult or disagree with them. Be empa-
thetic. There are sound psychological reasons
for this: it will be harder for your abductor to
harm you if you make yourself more “human”
and establish some kind of bond with them. To
this end, ask for small favours: a glass of water,
something to eat, a newspaper.
While you’re establishing this bond, however,
you must be constantly observant. Make
a mental note of the route the kidnappers have
taken – even if you’re blindfolded, you can
keep a tally of the left and right turns you’ve
taken and count the time taken between them.
When you reach the place you’re being held,
be hyper alert. Where are the potential exits?
Are there any obstacles? How many abductors
do you have? What is their routine? Are they
armed? Do they seem fit? Is their mental state
volatile? These are all questions that can help
you plan an escape attempt. The more intel
you have, the higher your chances of success.
The most important information you can
glean is the reason for your abduction. This
will inform how much risk you should take in
attempting to escape. If it’s for ransom, remem-
ber you are much more valuable to them alive
than dead. In these instances, you should only
Ride it out: Bear Grylls
shares the military’s
strategies for abduction
attempt to escape if you have a high proba-
bility of success. Remember that most people
kidnapped under these circumstances survive.
If you’ve been abducted by a sexual predator,
or for political or military reasons, your life is
at risk. You must adopt a survival mentality. Be
alert for the signs that your abductor is plan-
ning to kill you: brutal treatment; a desperate
demeanour; the release of other hostages but
not you; the revealing of their identities having
previously kept them secret by wearing masks.
In these instances, you must try to escape even
if your chances are not good.
If you’re lucky, there will be a rescue attempt.
This is the most dangerous moment in your
ordeal, after the initial abduction. You might be
used as a human shield. Your rescue team will
almost certainly be using firearms. Get down on
the ground. Cover your head. Remember that
Photographs Getty Images; Ben Riggott Grooming Chloe Botting
the rescuers will not necessarily know who is
a hostage and who is an abductor. Do exactly
what you’re told and be prepared for rough
treatment while they establish who’s who.
In summary: maintain your dignity, vigilance,
routine and discipline. People who have sur-
Model Alex Nichol at W Model Management
vived this situation often report that the thing
that haunts them most, mentally and emotion-
ally, is dealing with the consequences of having
compromised their own morals during captiv-
ity. So be true to your values and integrity, no
matter what you are enduring or being threat-
ened with. But when you get an opportunity,
exploit it. Assume the worst when it comes to
your destiny in the hands of a kidnapper and
know that fortune favours the brave. Making
that move will be frightening, but it might well
be your only chance.
 LIFE

PERSONAL TRAINING #5

Kettlebell thrusters are a

core-to-extremity exercise
combining two major muscle-
building “anabolic” exercises,
the squat and the overhead The
press. Proper execution squat
requires coordination of lower •Bend knees and
body, core and upper body, hips to squat to
parallel; maintain
the leg drive serving to provide a straight spine.
•Drive up
momentum for the overhead powerfully
pressing of the kettlebells and through the
hips and knees.
the core providing a strong
and stable link between
the lower- and upper-body
powerhouses. Thrusters
engage a massive amount
of muscle, which means
they incinerate calories and
trigger your body for gains in
muscular strength, power and
stamina, plus cardiovascular
endurance. Jonathan Goodair
jonathangoodair.com

Overhead
Preparation press
•Stand with feet shoulder-distance apart.
•Hold a kettlebell in each hand close to •Use the momentum
your chest with palms facing the body. from the legs to drive
the arms up to vertical,
rotating arms so palms
face away from the
body at the top of
the movement.
•Return to parallel
squat position
Try building up to 10 and repeat.
sets of 10 reps, with 60
seconds’ rest between each
set using the heaviest
weight you can handle
Shorts, £28. Trainers, £80. while maintaining
Both by Under Armour. good form.
At Mr Porter. mrporter.com.
Socks by Falke, £16. falke.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 189

 KIT

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190 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017


COMMENT
Is it wrong to go on a protest
march to find a girlfriend?
When passions run high on the picket lines of modern life, fear
not – there’s nothing wrong with flirting with good causes (and
the women behind them) just as long as you follow certain rules
In the pub the other day, a friend was a protest march to chat up women is ‘They’re
telling me that he’d recently had to easy. Of course you are. You just need all so hot.
stop following the Twitter account to make sure you frame it correctly.
@EverydaySexism. Do you know it? It “I am attracted to this cause because
Angry
retweets women talking about the way of the passion you show for it,” is fine. girls in
they’ve been catcalled in the street or Whereas adding, “because it makes me lipstick
patronised by car salesmen. Quite the hope you might show the same passion who aren’t
eye-opener. Though my friend, who for me, perhaps in a negligée”, is not going to
had probably better remain anony- fine at all. take it
mous, told me he’d had enough. In a way, it makes me think of Glee.
“Because it’s so relentless?” I asked Remember how the Cory Monteith
any more’
him, sympathetically. character stayed in the school singing
“No,” he said. “Because I keep check- club purely because he fancied Lea
ing them out. They’re talking about, Michele? Even though, in the immortal
you know, their dentist peering down words of somebody else on the show,
their top or whatever and I keep click- she “somehow managed to dress
ing through to their profiles to see what like a grandmother and a toddler
he might have been staring at. They’re at the same time”. At first he
all so hot. Angry girls in lipstick, who was like somebody who turns
aren’t going to take it any more. Turns up at a synagogue speed-
me right on. And I can’t have that. dating event pretending to
Because I’m a feminist.” be a Jew. In time, though, he
Thorny, eh? Obviously, you’re allowed got sucked in, and it was all
to fancy feminists. You’re also allowed down to her.
Illustrations Antony Hare; Britt Spencer
to fancy feminists entirely because they Normally, you can rational-
are feminists. Although I think it is also ise this. Say she’s a vegan and
possible to fancy a feminist, because an animal-rights activist. Lots
she is a feminist, in a way that isn’t of them are. She’s beautiful,
very feminist at all. A bit like O’Reilly and possibly in a poncho, and
in Fawlty Towers who “likes a woman surprisingly energetic consid-
with spirit”. Which is not to say that ering she doesn’t get much iron.
you aren’t allowed to like a woman with In a way, what’s attracting you
spirit, either. Oh God. I don’t know. here is veganism itself, right?
Next to that, anyway, the question Or, conversely, maybe it’s a pro-
of whether you’re allowed to go on countryside rally and the girls
LIFE
are all in pearls. The thought of them
beheading a vole with their teeth is
precisely what’s giving you the horn,
right? Really, it’s them seducing you.
You’ll know when you’re being
creepy. You’re heading to the vegan
march but you’re hitting Burger King
first? Probably not OK. Ask yourself
honestly. All these empowered,
liberated, shouty, street-invading,
sisters-doing-it-for-themselves women:
do you find them a bit threatening?
A bit emasculating? And, if so, is
banging one of them a way of getting
over that? Because that’s definitely not
OK, either. I have known men, both
of the right and the left, who have a
certain “conquest” thing going on with
the women of the other side. I suspect
some women have that, too, yearning
either for a bit of forbidden socialist
rough, or believing, in the vein of
Sylvia Plath, that “every woman adores
a Fascist”. That’s sexy in a way, but do
bear in mind that these women will be
insane. Although I suppose it is
safer to meet them in a crowd.
In general, though, don’t
beat yourself up. Protest is
hot. Whether it’s the junior
doctors (every one of whom
will remind you of your school’s
head girl from three years up),
or eco-warriors, or Women
Against Trump, this is now the
stuff of the alpha-female. Just
remember that you will need to
know what they’re actually pro-
testing about. And, once you’ve
figured it out, maybe you’ll
even agree. The whole point of
a protest is to win hearts and
minds. They’ve just won some
other bits, too.
Hugo Rifkind is a writer for
The Times.
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 191
EXPLORE THE WIDE WORLD
OF VIDEOS AT GQ.CO.UK

At 97, Charles Eugster is a record-breaking athlete, ladies’ man and proof that
the only way to regenerate your body at any age is to get fit or die not trying
he great signifier of ageing is not
T
  losing your hair, or expanding your
waistline, or no longer waking up
every morning with your throbbing
manhood pointing to magnetic north.
The telltale sign that the clock is ticking
and the meter is running on those relentlessly
passing years is loss of muscle – sarcopenia,
they call it. From the day you are born until
the time you hit 30, your muscles are growing
stronger and larger. But when you turn 30 –
so soon! – sarcopenia kicks in and we start
losing three to five per cent of muscle mass
with every passing decade. All of us.
There is the genetic luck of the draw with
the fate of your hairline. But the degenerative
loss of muscle mass comes to every man.
Sarcopenia is the disease we can’t duck. We all
catch it – an increasing frailty and weakness
breathing down your neck on the long haul to
the grave. The only way to combat sarcopenia
is to rebuild lost muscle. Charles Eugster – at
97, the fittest old man on the planet – is living
proof of what can be achieved when a man
decides to fight back.
Five years ago, when he was just a crazy kid
with a dream, Eugster gave a TED talk on the
importance of strength training, “Why Body
Building At 93 Is A Great Idea”. As he began
to speak, the youthful audience was wreathed
in indulgent smiles at this dapper elderly
Illustration Sam Kerr
gentleman – Eugster looks like David Niven’s
older brother – lecturing them on what time
and inactivity does to a man’s muscle mass. But
their smiles faded as the truth began to dawn.
This fit old man can save your life.
What can a 97-year-old man teach us about
fitness? Everything.
Eugster can teach us that if a man is remotely
serious about staying fit after 30 then he needs
to understand sarcopenia and how to reverse
it. Eugster will teach us that the fuel we put
into our bodies is more important than what
we do in the gym and that working is more
important than both of them.
“Work, diet and exercise,” Eugster chants in
his TED talk. “In that order.”
Eugster trains like a young demon in the gym
but places nutrition above exercise and having
a stake in the working world above every-
thing. As he sees it, retirement is a slow form
of suicide – or, worse, a passive acceptance of
the degeneration of mind and body.
Eugster can teach us that we can always
push our fitness regime up a gear – or ten. And
he can teach us that there is more good stuff
Retirement is a slow
suicide, an acceptance
of degeneration
LAST MAN STANDING
inside us than we ever dream of. If this fit old
man can achieve astonishing, world-breaking
levels of physical fitness, then anyone can.
For Eugster was never a natural athlete.
He does not have the genes of Mo Farah, or
the dedication of Floyd Mayweather, or the
physique of Anthony Joshua. Born in 1919,
he describes his younger self as, “a sick and
weedy boy, prone to headaches”. As an adult
he suffered from tuberculosis and a hole in
the lung. There has always been an enforced
hardiness about him. He went through the
English public school system between the wars
and was taught by men who had served in the
trenches. He was obliged to box and row. But
Eugster was never Mother Nature’s jock.
He spent his working life as a dentist in
Switzerland and after his wife died when he
was in his eighties, he resigned himself to
death. Then one day he looked in the mirror.
“I didn’t like what I saw,” he writes in his
new book, Age Is Just A Number: What A
97-Year-Old Record Breaker Can Teach Us
About Getting Older. “I hoped getting fit would
stop me ageing.”
Perhaps you know the feeling. The differ-
ence is that when Eugster disliked what he
saw in the mirror, he was 88 years old. It is
almost ten years since that epiphany and the
Daily Telegraph recently gasped, “He has the
abs – and the energy – of a 23-year-old”.
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 193
 LAST MAN
LAST MAN STANDING
STANDING
Eugster – who calls himself “a living exper-
iment” and “healthy beyond belief”, proves
what a man can achieve if he is willing to cover
the hard yards. His fanatical dedication to his
fitness demonstrates that it is not what you do
over the weekend that determines your fitness
level. It is what you do – or don’t do because
you are too busy, because you are too lazy,
because it is so tough – over the course of ten
years or more. Eugster teaches us that a man
is not fit or unfit.
He is fit or he is dying.
Eugster notes that 30 per cent of new gym
members quit after four months and more
than 50 per cent drop out after the first year.
Because the toughest thing is sticking at it,
making your fitness part of the fabric of your
life and not just an option to be bolted on
when the stars align.
I have been going to the same gym, Fred’s
in Hampstead, since Ricky Hatton was thin –
12 years this summer. You can’t help noticing
that the faces are always changing because
there is always a good excuse to skip training.
It is a hard day. It is a tough year. Work is
frantic. You get married. Children get born.
Going to the gym is a supremely selfish act
and it becomes harder to justify as family and
work clamour for your attention. Exercise –
serious exercise, exercise that makes a differ-
ence to your health, the kind of exercise where
you are spending more hours in the gym every
week than you are spending in restaurants –
is hard to keep up year after year after year.
Packing your kit bag for the next time as soon
as you get home, understanding that it never
ends, going to the gym when you know how
brutal it is going to be when you get there.
The hard part is not getting fit but staying fit.
r Charles Marin Eugster – to give
D
  him his full name and title – can
be scathing about the empha-
sis that the health and fitness
industry places on losing weight
and looking good and yet there is no doubt
that he has used narcissistic male vanity as
his great motivator.
Eugster jokes that his main aim in taking up
bodybuilding at the age when most men are
dropping dead was because he, “wanted to
turn the heads of the sexy 70-year-old girls on
the beach”. Perhaps he is not joking. His TED
talk begins with an anecdote about attempt-
ing to pick up a younger woman at his rowing
club. He waxes lyrical about her “magnificent
194 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
breasts”, as the screen behind him helpfully
displays a pair of large breasts – possibly a first
for a TED talk. His principal motivation is the
same as a man in his twenties. Charles does it
for himself. And he does it for the ladies.
Eugster’s transformation from frail old
man to global fitness guru has been achieved
with the help of two trainers. “My body was
degenerating,” he says. “I thought, who knows
about muscles?”
At the age of 87, when he first decided to
pump some serious iron, he found a former
Mr Universe, François Gay. In their first year
of training Eugster lost 26 pounds and gained
a six-pack. At 89, he changed trainers, switch-
ing to Sylvia Gattiker, a former gymnastic
champion from Austria, because he wanted to
compete on the athletic track. Now this man
– who had never seen a pair of running spikes
until he was in his nineties – has won multiple
gold medals for track events and is a world
record-holding sprinter for his age group.
At 30 life has finished
with you. But are you
finished with life?
Eugster has lived the impossible dream.
Defying the laws of nature, he has made the
firm flesh of youth and young manhood last
for almost 100 years. But he has not done
it alone. And it would not have been pos-
sible to do it alone because it is against all
common sense and human instinct to work
your heart, pump your blood and push your
muscles as he does. You can’t stay fit at 97
without a trainer. You probably can’t stay fit
at 27 without a trainer.
So much fitness rhetoric revolves around
fads, fashion and flannel. But Eugster’s aston-
ishing fitness has been achieved by getting the
basics absolutely right – strength training with
his first trainer, training for the track with his
second trainer.
Eugster has always been prepared to embrace
change – taking up competitive rowing at 63,
bodybuilding at 87 and competitive sprinting
at 95. Much of this is counterintuitive stuff.
Runners, once they get out of the first flush of
youth, know all about the toll they are taking
on their knees.
Eugster teaches us to adapt our fitness
regimes to fit our needs and knocks. Be
flexible. Be ambitious. Be vain. Be committed.
And never, ever, surrender to physical decline.
Eugster believes that deep down in our DNA
men are still hunter-gatherers, programmed to
consume more food than we need because food
was scarce in the Paleolithic era and now we
are being made fat, sick and prematurely old
by the same instincts that helped our ances-
tors to survive 10,000 years ago.
t was a happy marriage, fatherhood and
I  success – life itself – that turned Eugster
into “a lump of lard”. The loss of his wife
and a keen sense of his own mortality
turned him into the fittest old man alive.
“I’m just an old boy who refused to shuffle
into decrepitude,” Eugster says, always quick
with the self-deprecating quip. But he is more
than that and if in your own life you have
clocked up countless hours trying to reach and
then maintain physical fitness, then Eugster
has much to say to you. He has discovered the
secret we all seek when we pump our blood,
push our muscles or merely buy those gym
memberships with the best of intentions.
And there is no man who wouldn’t benefit
from the hard-earned wisdom of Charles
Eugster – who, lest we forget, is imparting
lessons that have taken him almost a century
to learn. His radical philosophy is an old man’s
manifesto that any young man can benefit
from. Why decline in old age when you can
enjoy later life? Eugster embraced physical
fitness because he wanted to look good and
get girls. Now he has bigger ambitions.
“What I hope to achieve is to change the
world,” he told a stunned journalist from the
Daily Mail. His message is simple. “Get a new
body and start a new life.”
Eugster is a revolutionary yet he only echoes
what Hippocrates said nearly 2,500 years ago.
All functional body parts, when stimulated by
physical activity “become healthy, well-devel-
oped and age more slowly”.
Why does he do it? “If I don’t keep exercis-
ing, I’m dead,” Eugster says. “This is keeping
me alive.”
You should not listen to Eugster because you
are planning to live to 100. You should listen to
him because you do not want to start declining
when you turn 30. That is the birthday when
life has finished with you. The question you
have to ask is – have you finished with life?
Charles Eugster proves the alternative to
getting fit is not growing old before your time.
The alternative to getting fit is digging your
own grave.
See you at the free weights, grandad!
FROM GQ! INTERACTIVE EDITIONS
Available to download from the App Store and Google Play
“Ars comes up with insight
that no one else has.”
Sergey Brin, cofounder, Google

Ars Technica, founded in 1998, is the

world’s most influential technology website
and community, providing deep analysis and
impartial reporting of the confluence of
science, technology, policy, and the Internet.

Tech news with real impact

ARSTECHNICA.CO.UK
 BILL PRINCE &
E D I T E D BY
PAUL HENDERSON

Norse saga: Duck

breast, rowans and
parsnip at Aquavit
in St James’s

THE RESTAURANT

Northern lights
Manhattan’s Aquavit brings its Nordic
brilliance to London’s all-day dining scene
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 197
 THE RESTAURANT

Aquavit, London
LONG before Scandi-style wellbeing
was a thing, and René Redzepi had
redefined and globalised its culinary
fare, there was Aquavit: a fine-dining room in
midtown Manhattan that took Nordic cuisine
seriously and, under the auspices of Marcus
Samuelsson, elevated the likes of Arctic char
and matjes herring to multi-starred status. In
2010, Samuelsson left to develop his concept
for Afro-Scandi soul food at Harlem’s Red
Rooster. Still, Aquavit prevailed, with fellow
Swede Emma Bengtsson earning it two
Michelin stars and restoring its hallowed
three-star status in the New York Times.
But for its launch into the UK, another
Swede spot: approach was needed – one that answers the
Aquavit’s interior,
designed by Martin
capital’s siren call for all-day dining with
Brudzinki; (below) culinary flair. Accordingly, Aquavit’s new
matjes herring
home in the fast-developing foodie quarter St
James’s Market is light, airy, immaculately
designed (by another Swede, Martin
Brudzinki) and inclusive in a way its
Manhattan parent could never be. Or
as the founder and CEO of London’s
operation, Philip Hamilton, puts it,
“It’s fine dining, but it’s a brasserie.
I want people to come here two or
three times a week. We are accessible, with
the accent on food excellence.”
The trade-off: dishes have been simplified
to make for a quicker dispatch across the pass.
But otherwise first impressions should be the
same: not so much classical as much-loved
dishes from the region that gave us hygge,
given the care and attention you’d expect.
It’s a project that sits well with Bengtsson’s
OSt James’s Market, 1 Carlton Street, London approach. “I’m very true to the flavours and
SW1. 0207 024 9848. aquavitrestaurants.com quality of ingredients, and how things are
Up Nord:
Turbot,
horseradish
and brown butter
at Aquavit
produced,” she says. “But I trust the people
I work with. In my mind, a kitchen is much
stronger with people who have lots of ideas.
It’s a team effort, and creating this menu with
Henrik [Ritzen] was an amazing experience.”
Belying his absurdly youthful looks, the
41-year-old Ritzen has spent the last 20 years
cooking in the capital, starting at the Blueprint
Café, before moving on to Le Petite Maison
and Dover Street’s The Arts Club. At the same
time, he’s seen his native Swedish cuisine
grow in scope and stature.
“It’s tricky,” he says of adapting the menu.
“It’s a big restaurant so we had to do something
we felt really confident doing. We didn’t want
to be too Nordic, but we didn’t want to be too
rounded at the edges either. We want food
people recognise and come back for. So we
serve blood pudding, liver pâté – which we
associate with childhood in Sweden – and veal
in dill and, of course, meatballs.”
And would Aquavit London’s all-day dining
iteration ever work in its home city? Bengtsson
thinks so. “The markets are very different, but
we’re entering a new era. If we took what we
have in London and placed it in New York, it
would work amazingly well, I’m sure.” BP

Where has been eating this month... Spago, Beverly Hills

BACK in the day, whenever you read anything about the vagaries of Hollywood
nightlife, or heard a juicy, but usually unprintable, story involving the sexual
pursuits of the likes of Jack Nicholson, Spago always seemed to be mentioned
at some point. Not only did everyone who was anyone appear to eat there,
but they also seemed to always be behaving incredibly badly. As an
advertisement for a restaurant, this vague sense of loucheness was catnip.
“Who cares if it’s true?” we cried. “We want to go there!”
Wolfgang Puck’s formidable Californian cuisine eatery opened on the Sunset
Strip in West Hollywood in 1982 and became famous almost immediately,
though it moved to Canon Drive in Beverly Hills two decades ago. In 2013, it
was even named the most iconic restaurant in LA – yet it still reinvents itself
each season. Not only does it now have two Michelin stars, which has made
it easier for Puck to franchise the brand, but it is still a foolproof way of
successfully achieving “Saturday night”. No one was ever disappointed when
they decided to go to Spago and they probably never will be. DJ
Standout dish
Bincho grilled Korean marinated salmon, with vegetable namul and seaweed.

O176 North Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210, USA. 001 310 385 0880.
wolfgangpuck.com. For more information, visit lovebeverlyhills.com

198 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 TASTE

THE PUB music, from proper good trad sessions

and Irish dancing to contemporary pop
The Oliver and jazz.
But its true strength lies in its rich food and
Plunkett, drink offerings. While the Irish stew is delicious

Cork, Ireland (and comes with a suggest-

ed pairing of Murphy’s
Irish Stout), GQ recom-
Embrace the Irish spirit at a mends the hearty beef and
traditional taproom crammed Beamish Stout pie, made
from locally sourced Bar o’ plenty:
with charm, character and craic Old-time interiors at
McCarthy’s beef, stewed in The Oliver Plunkett
IN the rebel city of Cork – to stout sauce and served
some, the real capital of Ireland with mixed root vegeta- old Irish instruments – and walls
and the birthplace of Graham bles and creamy mash. For lined with poems, songs and
Norton and Roy Keane – you are the full Irish experience, photos of everyone from Rory Gal-
never more than a couple metres from a water- tuck into a boozy dessert lagher to President John F Kennedy
ing hole. The pubs here are rich in their of Jameson affogato (local whiskey ice-cream on his visit to the city in 1963, you’ll be hard-
adherence to clichés, and we mean that in the with a shot of hot espresso) before heading up- pressed to find a more genuine Irish joint that
very best sense. The Oliver Plunkett, based in stairs to The Frisky Irish Whiskey Bar for, well, fully embodies céad míle fáilte – a hundred
the heart of the city centre, is a great example. more whiskey. thousand welcomes. Sláinte. Kevin Long
Under the watchful eye of Paul Montgomery, With inviting interiors reminiscent of an old- O116 Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork, T12 P957, Ireland.
it has become a go-to establishment for live time rural Irish home – complete with genuine 00353 21 422 2779. theoliverplunkett.com

THE ROUNDUP
Wizards of Oz: Three picks in Chippendale,
Sydney’s coolest new food hub
Kensington Street Social
3 Kensington Street, Sydney
jasonatherton.co.uk
The setup: Beneath the Old Clare,
the luxurious boutique hotel
responsible for this neighbourhood’s
hipster revival, Jason Atherton
introduces diners to his take on
Chippendale’s small-bites-in-a-
concrete-bunker trend.
Eat this: Never one to sidestep
a golden cube of fried meat, GQ
loved the tongue’n’cheek croquettes
Photograph Jody Todd
Automata
5 Kensington Street, Sydney
automata.com.au
The setup: Small plates, tick. Concrete
bunker, tick. But head chef Clayton
Wells’ creative cuisine transcends the
stark surroundings and manages to
be delicate, ballsy and luxurious.
Eat this: Every dish, from the XO
and red vinegar biting through
the sweetness of a bug tail, to the
slow-baked Jerusalem artichoke
with an umami blast of fermented
THE BOTTLE
Blackwell
Fine
Jamaican
Rum
AT 79,
Island
Records
founder Chris
Blackwell should
have retired long
ago. Instead, he
runs Island
Outpost, a group
of resorts in Jamaica, and
Ester
46/52 Meagher Street, Sydney
continues to work with the likes
ester-restaurant.com.au of Chronnix, the latest reggae star
(starting with Bob Marley) he’s
helped bring to the world’s
The setup: Fine dining goes informal attention. Recently, he launched
as chef Mat Lindsay masters a his own rum, made on the island
wood-fired oven in the open kitchen
by the distillery his family used to
of this must-visit, concrete-arched
restaurant. It’s officially one of the own: Wray & Nephew. Unlike the
World’s 50 Best and has already white rum for which the company
become a Chippendale institution. is renowned, Blackwell’s is dark
Eat this: It’s not often courgette steals – known as “black gold”.
the show, but here they slice it
sideways, perform culinary alchemy
Blackwell says it’s the first time
he’s put his name on one of his

(£10). Even better enjoyed as part
of the £45 sharing menu alongside
whipped Persian feta and whatever
seafood was caught that morning.
Drink this: The Vegemitini, of course
(Tanqueray, vermouth, Cynar and
Vegemite brine and shard, £12).
When in Rome...
mushrooms, is a handpicked song in
a no-choice playlist at £55. You won’t
want to miss a beat.
Drink this: Choose the “beverage
pairing” for another £35. Expect
unexpected twists such as a dark ale
twinned with tuna sashimi, and Brian,
a small-batch Tasmanian wine.
with cured egg and anchovy (£9) and
crown it the king. Just hope it’s on the products. “I’m timid,” he says.
ever-evolving menu when you visit. Given its provenance, it’s easy to
Drink this: There’s a focus on organic
see why it might have been
wines plus a sturdy cocktail list. Try
the Burnt Martini (Archie Rose vodka, difficult to refuse. BP
Maidenii dry vermouth, Lagavulin O£32. At Selfridges. selfridges.com
whisky, £13). Jennifer Bradly

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 199


Dutch courage: Brave an
Amsterdam all-nighter
at Sugarfactory
THE CLUB
Sugarfactory,
Amsterdam
Europe’s dance capital
puts itself back on the
map with a party that
hits the sweet spot
WITH a spate of new
club openings in the
past year, Amsterdam
is back to claim its
throne from Berlin as
the world’s most illustrious party
capital. And yet, for all this new blood
we can’t help but return to one of
the city’s older haunts, Sugarfactory
– famous for its experimental live
music. This club is so cool even
the tourists don’t know about it.
But if you know, you know. And
now, thanks to GQ, you know. Just
don’t make us look bad...
What’s so special? No other
venue hosts such a wonderful
hybrid of live jazz and dance
beats. A saxophonist that makes
you want to party, not just sway
from side to side? Better believe it.
Count me in… As long as you don’t
mind seeing the sun come up on a
Sunday. The Dutch don’t do rest days,
so while you’re here neither do you.
And for the harder stuff? Then go
for Techno Tribe Tuesdays. Bring your
long black overcoat and dark fedora,
and whatever you do don’t smile.
VIP? Think again. The Dutch don’t
dither about on tables, they dance.
Eleanor Halls
OOpen 11.30pm - 5am, every day.
Entry €9.50. Lijnbaansgracht
238, 1017 PH, Amsterdam,
The Netherlands. 0031 20
627 00 08. sugarfactory.nl
200 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
Harbour dreams (from top): Duck confit pasta
from Elsa; La Vigie restaurant stretches
along the shoreline; inside Elsa
Good catch:
Local red
mullet from
Michelin-star
restaurant Elsa
THE HOTEL
Monte-Carlo
Beach, Monaco
THERE is something more than a little cinematic
about Monaco, a faceted charm that glistens
from every crevice of the place. Nowhere is
this brilliance more apparent than at the Monte-
Carlo Beach hotel.
Of the 40 rooms, each designed by India Mahdavi, all face
towards the ocean and the cluster of the port – a particularly
pretty sight to wake up to from your white-decked balcony.
All clean lines and coastal palette, the design sensibility is
that of a Thirties resort, a theme continued outdoors at the
art deco swimming pool, where golden bodies lounge beneath
ivory parasols late into the day.
There are four restaurants, which all fall under the guard-
ianship of executive chef Paolo Sari: the understated Le
Pizzeria, poolside Le Deck and, tucked away in a pinewood
at the tip of the shoreline, La Vigie, where the menu of grilled
fish and langoustes is offset by its deep-blue backdrop.
The jewel, however, is Elsa – the first organic restaurant in
the world to hold a Michelin star. Every ounce of produce,
right down to the peppercorns, can be traced back to sustain-
able sources. And, unexpectedly, there is real variety: charred
sea scallops are drizzled with the essence of reinette apples;
hazelnut-infused potatoes, whisked until frothy as sea foam,
frame poached crayfish; and stewed scorpion fish tangle with
tagliolini pasta on a bed of gently spiced tomatoes.
And, not content with spearheading a convincing mar-
riage between his profession and philosophy, Sari has also
established the Route Du Gout, an annual travelling food
festival designed to raise the profile of environmentally
sound cooking across the Riviera. On a 42ft sloop, trailed by
a floating garden on which an epicurean’s ransom of organic
vegetables and herbs grow, Sari sails from San Remo to Saint-
Tropez, spreading his gospel through live workshops, markets
and dinners. “We have taken advantage of the earth for the
last 50 years, with declining respect and responsibility,” he
explains. “Now, we all need to make a change and give back
what we took, as otherwise there will be nothing left over
for the next generations.” Holly Bruce
ORooms from £290 a night. Avenue Princesse Grace, MC98000,
Monaco. 0033 4 93 28 66 66. monte-carlo-beach.com. British
Airways flies from Heathrow to Nice from £36. ba.com
 TASTE

THE BOOK THE BAR

Red Rooster Harlem: The Cookbook Old Lightning,

Dishes from Marcus Samuelsson’s worldly local kitchen
BORN in Ethiopia, raised in
Venice Beach,
Sweden and canonised in
A menu should be a
window into your California
the kitchens of Aquavit in community. I wanted the food to
Manhattan, in 2010 celeb- actually come from someplace and Is it acceptable to drink in
rity chef Marcus Samuelsson left the Harlem really answered that quest. a car park? Only in LA...
tony tables of Midtown to pursue his The people who were there before
concept of what a truly “neighbour- me, some of whom are featured in the
hood” restaurant could be. He chose book, inform us everyday.
Harlem, restoring to prominence culinary People ask me to open a Red Rooster
landmark Red Rooster where, as he writes in his somewhere every week. I say no because it has
latest book, “Honey and sugar are not ingredients, to be a city I’m deeply in love with. Growing up
they’re words of endearment used to say hello”. in Sweden, London is your first New York. It’s
And this month, Red Rooster comes to London, the first city that spoke to me, whether it was
with the unveiling of Samuelsson’s take on its music, art or food. So London ticks all the boxes.
Harlem namesake at The Curtain, the new hotel and The menu is a handshake. It’s a, “Hey, I’m
members’ club in Shoreditch. As such, it will boast talking to you!” The audience is king, but the
the same mouthwatering cuisine shot through with food is a reflection of the moment. And it’s a
Samuelsson’s soul-searching sensibility. So expect reflection of the friends we make along the
Hackney by way of Harlem by way of Ethiopia by way. If we are ordering in food from the States,
way of Scandinavia. Here, then, is a quick recap of then we aren’t very good at making friends.
his journey, by the man himself... Not everything has to be on this high level
You can’t work both sides of the street. of discovery. Gin, for example. We don’t do
I arrived at Aquavit in the Nineties and grew a lot of that in Harlem, but we could do some
up there. I went from being a good cook to infusions from our London team. I can’t wait
becoming a chef. But I couldn’t quell my urge until we do a Shoreditch pop-up in Harlem. BP
for culture and music at Aquavit – and their ORed Rooster Cookbook (Pavilion Books, £25) is
urge to become more Nordic than Swe-thiopan out now. Red Rooster, 45 Curtain Road, Shoreditch,
was also big – so we both had to move on. London EC2A. thecurtain.com THE best place to get a
cocktail in California is in
a restaurant car park just
THE RECIPE OPut 500ml of water and the salt in southeast of Venice Beach.
a saucepan over a high heat and There is no sign, no doorbell, no red velvet
Fried Yardbird bring to a simmer, stirring
to dissolve the salt. Pour into
rope. Save for the occasional sighting of
a beautifully dressed couple disappearing
a large container, add the behind a service door, it looks like any
How to do the Harlem remaining water and cool to other restaurant car park just southeast
room temperature. Add the of Venice Beach: a wrong turn.
chicken shake chicken, cover and refrigerate for Old Lightning is good at keeping
1½ hours. Drain. secrets, its entrance being just one.
Ingredients (serves 4)
OWhisk the buttermilk, coconut Tucked behind Scopa Italian Roots
O2l water
more to milk, garlic and chicken shake (scopaitalianroots.com), this clandestine
O260g course sea salt serve wisp of a bar is reservation-only and asks
together in a baking dish. Submerge the
O4 chicken thighs OGroundnut oil chicken in the marinade, cover and all guests to surrender their phones on
O4 chicken drumsticks for frying refrigerate overnight. arrival in exchange for a playing card.
O500ml buttermilk O280g plain flour The 25-seat room, laced with the scent
OFill a large saucepan one-third full with
of tuberose and rum, is a tribute to
O180ml coconut milk O45g semolina groundnut oil. Heat over a medium-high
Hollywood regency, seemingly plucked
O2 garlic cloves, O2 tbsp cornflour temperature to 180C.
from James Stewart’s bachelor apartment
finely chopped O1 tbsp freshly OCoat the chicken while the oil heats. Put the in 1958. Photographs are forbidden and,
O1 tbsp chicken shake ground white flour, semolina, cornflour and white pepper into as in a mid-century casino, there are no
(see below), plus pepper a bowl and whisk to combine. Let any excess clocks – a trick that lends the place a
marinade drip off the chicken, then roll in the preserved air, like a bee in amber.
For the chicken shake...
flour coating, packing it on. Place on a rack set Bartenders dress in slim-cut suits
O4tbsp berbere O2tbsp freshly ground over a rimmed baking sheet. If the coating and have a library of rare spirits at
(Ethiopian spice mix) white pepper looks damp, roll it in the flour again. their disposal, including pre-prohibition
O4tbsp hot smoked O2tbsp celery salt
OWorking in batches, fry the chicken until it is whiskeys, century-old champagnes and
paprika O1½tsp garlic granules a rich brown and has the internal temperature Japanese curios. They conjure up the
O2tbsp ground cumin O1½tsp coarse sea salt charred sweetness of a Tennessee Militia
of 75C (about 10 mins per batch). Keep an
eye on the heat and adjust it to keep the oil (crème de cacao, bourbon, brandy)
Method between 180C and 190C. Drain on a rack set and make a revelation of an Improved
over a rimmed baking sheet. Whiskey (above, rye, maraschino liqueur,
OWhisk together the chicken shake ingredients.
bitters) with debonair precision. HB
OStore in a jar, out of the light (it will keep for OSeason the yardbird with a sprinkle of chicken
six months). shake. Serve. O2905 Washington Boulevard, Marina Del
Rey, 90292, USA. oldlightning.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 201

 TASTE
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
Taipei, Taiwan
Plane: London Heathrow to Taipei,
from £797 return. cathaypacific.co.uk
Taiwan’s capital Taipei is a remarkable trading city, which, thanks to its complex
20th-century history, has bequeathed it a unique culture and cuisine to match.
Above: The FLY Cathay Pacific and
Taipei skyline as
take advantage of its
seen from the
Amba Songshan; new Heathrow lounge
(left) the hotel’s on your way, which will set you
modern exterior
up nicely for check-in at the
(1) Amba Songshan hotel
(7 Civic Boulevard, Nangang
District 11562. 00886 22653
2828. amba-hotels.com) where
reception is on the 17th floor.
You’ll understand why they
want you so high: its vistas
across the Keelung River and
the Taipei 101 skyscraper
provide a beautiful contrast
of oriental old and new.
Once you’ve finished eyeing
from afar, visit (2) the 1,671ft
high Taipei 101 (as in 101 floors)
and dine on the 85th at Shin
Yeh (7 Xinyi Road, Xinyi District
11049. 00886 28101 0185.
shinyeh.com.tw). Its
immaculately presented
traditional cuisine is an
education on the subtle
differences between Chinese
and Taiwanese food, the
latter with a greater emphasis
on seafood.
From dinner in the sky to
From top: Sweet and sour pork at
Shin Yeh; the view from the 85th lunch in the basement, at the
floor; the restaurant’s interior (3) Din Tai Fung (3 Zhongxiao
Road East, Daan District 10654.
00886 28772 0528. dintaifung.
com.tw), a Michelin-starred
restaurant that, bizarrely, has
a venue on the lower ground
floor of department store Sogo.
Its steamed dumplings are a
pleasantly sticky, moreish (go
for the truffle oil!) and delicate
delight – well worthy of their
local fame.
Taiwan has a habit of
producing fabulous restaurants
in inauspicious locations. (4)
Above: Pork
and crab Shen Yen Teppanyaki (326 Xi
dumplings at
the Din Tai Bin Road, Yilan County. 00886
Fung; (right) 3960 777) requires a journey out
duck and
shrimp at Shen
of the city to nearby Yilan but
Yen Teppanyaki the king fish, sea urchin and
202 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
Time: Fourteen-and-a-half hours
tender cuts of steak are so good
Above: Jolly’s cucumber, pumpkin,
you would have been happy to lettuce and chilli salad; (below) the
walk there. restaurant and craft brewery
Another pleasant surprise is
(5) Jolly (60 Hengyang Road,
Zhongzheng District 100. 00886
27709 8223. jollys.tw), which
offers the unlikely, but genius,
pairing of Thai restaurant and
craft beer brewery. The sharp
kick of Thai cuisine contrasts
perfectly with the crispness
of the in-house beer; lettuce
wrapped bundles and crab
cakes with red curry make
for exotic comfort foods to
accompany you down the
drinks list.
The (6) Addiction Aquatic
Development (410 Minzu East
Road, Zhongshan District 104.
00886 22508 1268. addiction.
com.tw) is such a brilliantly
simple concept you can’t work
out why there isn’t one in a city
near you. A large working fish
market, you mull around the
stalls and tanks, choose your Above:
catch and then enjoy it at any Lobsters at the
Addiction
of the on-site restaurants who’ll Aquatic
cook it for you. GQ dined on Development;
(left) the
fist-sized sushi and lip-smacking terrace at the
Taiwanese squid at Tresors De Grand View
Resort Beitou
La Mer and drank in the buzzing
atmosphere (and the local
, TA I W
IPEI
Taiwan Beer).
AN
If you need a break from TA
the city throng, the (7) Grand 7
les
5 mi
View Resort Beitou (30 Youya 11.
Road, Beitou District 112. 00886 6
22898 8888. grand-view.com.
tw) is only a short trip
to the outskirts of Taipei, Nanjing East Road
and its mountainous
e
g
rid
location and natural hot 5 1
B
3
qi
springs are enough to
ng
s
ile
Ren’al Road
e
reinvigorate after days
m
Zh
4
37
2
of restaurant hopping. And
if you’ve still got room, its
C’est Bon restaurant offers an 2m
excellent blend of French and
Taiwanese. Mark Russell
 G Partnership

A FOUR-COURSE DINNER
WITH CORNEY & BARROW
AND THE LANE VINEYARD
Enjoy a special line-up
of The Lane wines and
The Lane:
a delicious locally sourced
an Adelaide dinner, care of The Lane’s
haven producing
remarkable wines head chef James Brinklow,
and unbeatable
dining at Corney & Barrow’s
1805 Grade II listed head
office near Tower Bridge,
on Wednesday 31 May.
We have two pairs of tickets
up for grabs, so to enter email
events@corneyandbarrow.com
with the answer to the
following question:
*Which region in Australia is most
famous for producing Shiraz?

THE GRAPE ESCAPE

With over 230 years’ of experience, wine merchant Corney & Barrow
will introduce you to an endless world of native charms
WHAT makes a wine truly memorable is a sense of place. FAMILY AFFAIR
As one of the oldest established wine merchants in the The Lane’s wines,
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& Barrow, are
bottled experiences.
distinguished and
*For terms and conditions please visit: corneyandbarrow.com/thelane

A prime example takes us to Australia. The Lane complex. Here are

Vineyard was born after John Edwards sampled some two of the vineyard’s
local wine at a restaurant on the banks of France’s Loire recent highlights
River, determined to one day grow his own produce with Beginning Chardonnay
similar native charm and authenticity. The Lane,
The dream was realised, and since 2001 John’s son Adelaide Hills 2015
Marty has run the renowned Adelaide Hills vineyard. This wine offers pure
As a viticulturist, Marty, formerly of the Royal stone-fruit, soft nut
and vanilla oak,
Australian Navy, analysed The Lane’s soil types and beautifully balanced
structures, ensuring that each grape variety is ideally by a stony minerality –
matched to a specific plot within the family estate. easily comparable to
The complex, distinguished wines brim with pure some of the best white
Burgundy on offer.
fruits and natural acidity. Marty is in the winery every
day, ensuring that the essence of the vineyard is Reunion Shiraz
captured in each bottle. The Lane 2013
The Lane’s wines are unique yet worldly, and available Classically structured
James Brinklow with some
and very smooth, this of his delectable dinners
solely in the UK via Corney & Barrow, which has wine combines
represented them for over a decade. You don’t need to concentrated dark fruits,
travel the world to get a taste of it. pepper and warm spice.
 Sadiq Khan and
Professor Green

MEN
YEAR
OF
THE
Simon Pegg and
Chris Pine

2017
Do you want to join the most glittering gathering of the
year? As GQ’s annual celebration of man races into view,
find out how to win two of the hottest tickets going David Gandy

he GQ Men Of The Year awards who broke barriers (London mayor Sadiq Khan);

T  in association with Hugo Boss are

notable for a number of reasons.
It brings more celebrities together
than even the Baftas. It’s held in Tate
Modern’s cavernous Turbine Hall. It’s an event
without rival. But what’s more, where else would
you see Amy Schumer on stage talking about
relations with Sir Patrick Stewart? That, after all,
is the beauty of the GQ awards – last year saw
a comedy inspiration (Billy Connolly) rubbing
a comic genius (Ricky Gervais) mixing with a
legendary actor (Sir Michael Caine); a multi-
instrumentalist (Jack Garrett) breaking bread
with a multimedia star (Casey Neistat).
And this year – our 20th, held on
5 September and incuding the all-new
Maddox Gallery Artist Of The Year award –
it will be even better. What’s more, we want
you to help choose our Vertu Breakthrough
Actor award. Go to GQ.co.uk to vote and one
Bella Hadid

shoulders with modelling’s It girl (Bella Hadid); lucky reader will win two tickets to the cer-
Tinie Tempah
a football manager who achieved the impossi- emony and a money-can’t-buy goodie bag and Mark Ronson
ble (Claudio Ranieri) mingling with a politician from Hugo Boss.

204 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 MEN OF THE YEAR
Jack Garratt

Anthony Joshua Team GB

Sir Michael Caine

Sir Elton John
and Alessandro

Harlow
Winnie
Michele
Calvin Harris

.co.uk
Ricky Gervais
To vote for the Vertu
and Sir Patrick
Stewart
Breakthrough Actor
award winner, email
Amy
Schumer
gqletters@condenast.co.uk
or vote online at GQ.co.uk
Photographs James Mason; Antonio Salgado;

Closing date

30 June 2017
Stella McCartney

C AT E G O R Y S P O N S O R S
Richard Young

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 205


Javier Bardem is thoughtful,
sensitive and peace-loving.
Perhaps that’s why he’s also
Hollywood’s greatest villain,
playing everything from a
maniac with a bad haircut to
his new role as a zombie
pirate-hunter. Now, the star
who embodies the complexities
of modern masculinity tells
GQ about overcoming his
violent past, why actors
should be political animals and
the long wait for Penélope Cruz
EL
TORO
(A story of sex and violence)
T
he weather won’t break. It’s one of those eve-
nings that reminds you that your favourite
pair of Chelsea boots – black, patent, Burberry,
higher on the ankle than is strictly necessary –
need resoling. The cold and damp is seeping in
between well-worn rubber and Italian leather, puddling
around toe and sock. Early evening and it already feels
like it should be the end of the night.
The speakeasy is below a shop that looks like it sells
expensive single malt whisky but could be a front for
something else a little darker – loneliness perhaps.
I peer in through the warped glass. At a half moon bar,
unshaven men in large waxed coats sit silently like retired
gunslingers nursing tumblers of amber liquid on ice.
I walk in and shake my brolly like a stray. No smiles but
then this is London in February; save the grins for Capri in
the summer, I guess. I push my way to the back towards
the storerooms. Sunk into an alcove is a large bookcase.
I push it and it swings open – yes, a bookcase, like the
tailor’s shop in Kingsman with secret rooms and the gold
S T Dupont lighter that turns out to be a hand grenade –
to reveal a hidden staircase (Francisco Scaramanga would
approve). I descend into darkness.
It’s crypt quiet. There’s a fug of old stubs and spilt beer.
There are several small, round tables, all with candles flick-
ering – prayers to the patron saint of pissheads. A barman
(bearded ’n’ inked) comes down and tells me to make
myself at home – a big leap for my imagination. I ask for
a glass of rioja, which, considering the company I’m to
keep this evening, seems either appropriate or n cliché.
Javier Bardem, 48, walks in looking like a man who can’t
remember where he left his car. “Hello? Jona-th-an?” He’s
stocky and you can see how he played rugby between the
ages of nine and 23. His wardrobe is casual – dark-grey
T-shirt, light-grey hoodie, indigo jeans and non-fashion
trainers. It’s premium Sunday afternoon dadleisurewear.
Like all actors his head seems huge; his strong jawline
swims under his skin as he talks like he’s chewing a coat
hanger. Turns out he’s going to the rugby tomorrow, the
Six Nations, England vs France. He’s flying over five
friends – perks of the job – from his ex-rugby club in
Madrid, men he’s known for decades, men in front of
whom he doesn’t have to pretend to be someone he’s not.
Friendship, family and a loyalty that binds are pillars,
PHOTOGRAPHS BY Nico Bustos
STORY
BY
Jonathan Heaf
STYLING BY Luke Day
 JAVIER BARDEM

‘Actors are
not buffoons.
We’re not here
just to dance
and entertain’
Coat by Oscar Jacobson, £800. oscarjacobson.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 207

 it turns out, that Bardem would die for.
Nearly did die for.
“We have great seats – so close to the pitch
that we can hear the crunch. Rugby in Spain
back then wasn’t popular; it was like being
a bullfighter in Japan. I was a prop. Ferocious.”
The Madrid accent is gloopy, surprisingly so.
It coats his English like he has a mouth full of
Novocaine. Bardem was born in the Canary
Islands but his mother, Pilar, herself an actress,
moved him and his two siblings to Madrid
shortly after he was born, a city he still calls
home. His father did not follow.
W
e sit. We make pleasantries.
He’s relaxed. “I’m here with
Penélope and the kids,” he
says with a smile. Bardem
married Cruz in 2010 and
they have two children, Leo and Luna. We
huddle in our wet shoes. Can I get him a drink?
“Do they have Coke Zero?” I look at my large
glass of red and feel my cheeks flush – not so
much my liver as a pang of guilt.
“Penélope is shooting here so I am more into
the Mrs Doubtfire role – kids, chaos, you know.
It’s one of the things that this job allows for:
long periods of intense work and long periods
of time off. We just did Escobar; had three
months in Colombia together. The dream.”
I’ll be honest, the image of the rugged actor
engaging in a spot of daddy day-care, all
gooey soft centre, carrot batons for tea and
Crocs around the house (probably) pops my
own sense of Bardem’s mythology somewhat.
Before this evening, the myth of this man
– a movie star who belongs on the alpha-plus
list of leading men, men such as Sean Penn,
Paul Newman, Clint Eastwood, Marlon Brando,
Russell Crowe and Tom Hardy – for me was
built around three of his most celebrated roles:
Jamón Jamón (1992), No Country For Old Men
(2007) and Skyfall (2012).
It’s a myth made of virility and violence. Men
such as Bardem, presumptive as it may be, come
loaded with a sort of red-blooded machismo,
an old-school manliness, a brutish, weathered
strength that some other actors (think Chris
Pratt, Ansel Elgort, hell, Leo DiCaprio without
a beard/bear) simply don’t possess.
The earliest of the trilogy, Jamón Jamón, saw
Bardem playing a man (opposite his future
wife, then 16; Bardem was 23) who seemed to
be led by a brain that was anywhere other than
in his head. Much like his co-star he displayed
a Latin passion that throbbed off the screen.
The pairing was cinematic Viagra. Indeed, the
heat from his performance turned Bardem into
a sex symbol, so much so that he virtually had
to go into hiding in his native country.
The second film was directed by Joel and
Ethan Coen and saw the actor portray an
idea more than a character. The part of Anton
208 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
Chigurh in No Country For Old Men has been
voted the greatest villain ever seen on screen:
a man with a haircut as scary as his weapon of
choice, a bolt gun used to kill cattle. Chigurh is
the very embodiment of unrelenting violence.
Bardem’s performance for the Coens still
vibrates with an iconic energy. A pale, teeth-
grinding, coin-flipping psychopath who rips
through people’s lives like a fatalistic freight
train. It’s as close to a contemporary Grim
Reaper as has ever been imagined – certainly
better than Brad Pitt’s disastrous Meet Joe
Black – and Bardem’s terrifying performance
won him, quite rightly, the Academy Award
that year for Best Supporting Actor, beating
Philip Seymour Hoffman, no less.
Sex and violence, themes that were com-
bined by director Sam Mendes for Bardem’s
third most celebrated role to date: that of Silva
in Daniel Craig’s third outing as James Bond,
Skyfall. Bardem’s bleached-blond villain was
as unhinged, corrupt and despotic as fans
‘I had no dominant
male fıgure to look
up to. It meant I
had to test myself.
I made mistakes’
demanded, but with an added sexual ambigu-
ity that saw him flirting with the famous British
spy. It was an extra layer, devised by Mendes
and Bardem, that was both bold and unsettling
for audiences.
All three of these roles riff on notions of an
amplified masculinity. The hothead, rudderless
lover, the unstoppable aggressor and the dom-
ineering, vengeful supervillain.
Yet to answer the question of what makes up
the man sitting before me in comparison to the
one painted by cinema, Bardem must take me
back to his time growing up in Madrid.
“I grew up in a very small family,” he
explains, glasses balancing on the bridge of
his broken nose like Philippe Petit walking
between the Twin Towers of the World Trade
Center in New York.
“My parents separated when I was small, but
we were so close – my mother, my brother and
my sister. We were like a gang of wolves. We
would attack anyone we felt was a threat. My
mother was a single parent. She was an actress.
She had to make money where she could.
“In the morning she would do television,
then theatre in the evening and cabaret at
night, coming home to sleep for two hours
before going back to work. As a kid, I was left
to my own devices. My father was absent.
I had no dominant male figure to look up to.
This isn’t a complaint, just a fact. It meant
I had to test myself. I had to figure out my own
boundaries. It meant I made mistakes.”
Bardem, by his own admission, was not
a good student at school. “I didn’t enjoy it.
The discipline was too much; they had the
cane and they used it. When you are a kid
you need to want to learn; when you are
forced to eat words and regurgitate numbers
you don’t learn, you go the other way. I felt
that. I felt I needed to express myself. I was
frustrated. I was wild. I needed to fill my own
space as I didn’t fit in the space they gave me.”
If his teenage years were wayward, Bardem’s
early twenties were about pushing limits. “I
have had a good number of wake-up calls.
One of those had to do with learning about
the reality of violence. I was always one of
the biggest in the class and I used to get into
lots of fights, back when a fight was a fight,
two guys with fists and not just pushing one
another around the playground, you know?”
Before the children and the Coke Zeros, the
golden statues and the pay cheques that could
buy plush beach bungalows in Malibu, the
22-year-old Bardem used to find himself in
dives drinking heavily. “One day I was in a bar,
I was picking on a girl...” You mean picking her
up? “Well, no. Don’t get me wrong. If there’s
one thing I learnt from my mother it is respect
for women – that I have never had a problem
with. No, I just wanted to get her attention,
let’s say, but I ended up saying something
insulting to her boyfriend instead. Bad move.
“I had some more drinks, stepped outside.
Then, boom! The boyfriend and four other
guys all came at me kicking and punching
– they hammered me all the way down the
street.” Was he hurt? “Yes, but thank god I
had my friends with me. Although they were
from the rugby team, all injured. One with
a broken shoulder, one with a broken leg...
“It was a bad fight. Very bad. If my friends
hadn’t been there those guys would have
killed me. It drove home a sense of mortality
for me. I learnt about respect, about keeping
my boundaries, about keeping my mouth shut
sometimes, about friendship, and about how
violence will always come back to you. What
you give out always comes back to a man,
however long it takes. From that moment
on I couldn’t stand violence. I still can’t even
watch it. I can’t bare it.”
Actors are nothing if not astute observers –
it’s what they get paid to do after all, dramatic
anthropologists, translators and transmitters
of human behaviour – and Bardem
 JAVIER BARDEM

‘From a young
age I couldn’t
stand violence.
I can’t even
watch it’
Coat by Corneliani, £1,800. corneliani.com.
T-shirt by Boss, £59. hugoboss.com.
Trousers by Dolce & Gabbana, from £335.
dolcegabbana.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 209

210 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
 JAVIER BARDEM

‘What you give out notices something doesn’t sit right with me
about his fight phobia. He knows my next question.

always comes back to a man, “So if I hate violence so much why did I do No
Country For Old Men, right?” I grin with him. “I

however long it takes’
Suit, £3,420. Shirt, £465. Both by Hermès. hermes.com
know, I know,” he’s laughing now, his shoulders
shaking like great Iberian hams.
“But you should have seen me off camera,
playing Anton on that movie. Somehow, I managed
to drive myself into that part to become evil, to
become death itself. But when the camera stopped
rolling I would beg the Coen brothers, ‘Please take
that gun out of my face guys, please...’ Man, they
would be laughing their asses off. I mean, I love
them; they’re geniuses. But it was tough. And I’ll
never forgive them for that damn haircut.”

F
rom where do our imagined monsters
come? Are our fearsome cinematic con-
structs based on real-life demons? With
monsters such as Bashar al-Assad on the
planet, what place is there for fear on-screen?
How can we be scared of the imagined when real
life brings with it such horror?
I was probably drunk but a fortnight before my
meeting with Bardem I was having just such a con-
versation with British director Mike Figgis – a man
responsible for the beauty of Leaving Las Vegas.
We found ourselves sitting opposite one another
at dinner, talking and gossiping. (He loathed La
La Land, by the way, and he’d happily tell you
himself, loudly.) Figgis seems to agree with my sen-
timent, however: in a world where Donald Trump
can become president of the US, how can fantas-
tical cinema hope to keep the pace?
By coincidence, sitting to the left of me that
night was British actor Mark Strong – also adept
at playing evil. I mentioned I was to meet Bardem
in a few days and Strong, it turned out, told me
how he had been in line for the role of Anton
Chigurh in No Country For Old Men. The Coens had
requested he come out to LA to audition. “And, not
being all pumped up about it,” Strong confessed,
“but it’s rare I get on a plane to simply audition.”
Anyway, turns out the price of the flight was worth
it: Strong landed the role. Initially. Weeks later he
found out the part had been handed to Bardem.
“I was surprised, sure, but then you see Javier’s
performance, and...”
Even professional villains such as Mark Strong
understand Bardem has something else when it
comes to dramatic menace. He makes for a killer
monster. So does the Spanish actor know what
makes him quite so good at being bad? “Not really.
It’s odd. It’s so completely not me. Maybe it’s the
way I look. The dark, hooded eyes. Maybe it’s my
heavy accent.”
This month audiences will see Bardem embody
another such terror: that of a pirate, or rather
a pirate-slayer, Captain Salazar, in the fifth mega-
bucks instalment of Pirates Of The Caribbean, a
franchise that seems impervious to bad reviews.
The bigger the critical flop, in fact, the greater the
number of people who want to see it.

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 211

 It will be the second time Bardem has
worked with Johnny Depp, the first being for
Julian Schnabel’s Before Night Falls in 2001.
“Johnny was so great to us back then. He gave
so much of his time and, you know, getting
Johnny on a project always means a lot. He’s
a beautiful person. A generous guy. Penélope
did the previous Pirates film and we found out
she was pregnant after she got the part. She
was going to have to walk away, so she called
a meeting to tell the Pirates team, but Johnny
found out and told her they’d deal with it. I
always appreciated that. It was a risk for them.”
Nowadays Depp himself comes with his own
baggage – air dogs that get detained, wives
that want a divorce. “With Johnny you can tell
there is a very sensitive person there, a man
who cares about people. That hasn’t changed.
Then there is the world outside the film studio,
and I won’t comment on these things because
I don’t know anything about them. But the
Johnny I know is a gentleman. An exemplary
actor with a sense of comedic timing quite like
no other. He’s f***ing hilarious!”
T
alking to Bardem, it is clear he is a
man with a keen moral compass. A
man not afraid to speak out. “Actors
are not buffoons, we are not here to
merely dance and entertain. We aren’t just
here for your pleasure, to be quiet and shut the
f*** up. I see Meryl Streep making speeches
at award ceremonies, holding our politicians to
account publicly, and I applaud her.”
In the past both Bardem and Cruz have
spoken up in solidity for the fate of Palestine;
something which few Hollywood players would
dare do. “I have been beaten up for speak-
ing out. Maybe it means some people won’t
go see a movie I’m in – that’s fine. Not every-
thing is so black and white. But if you see that
something is unjust you’d better denounce it,
brother. Otherwise you are simply complicit.”
So Bardem’s view on the Donald? “I blame
The Simpsons – they are the visionaries that
predicted all this!” An episode in 2000 showed
Lisa Simpson taking over from what the writers
imagined to be the worst Potus America could
ever dare hope for: Donald Trump. How’s that
for a little animated soothsaying? “I mean, one
thing you can’t deny: Trump is good at keeping
his word. Unfortunately. He’s doing exactly as
he preached on the way to the White House.
But his politics of isolation and division is
wrong, despite his majority.”
As a Spaniard, Bardem is also concerned
about politics closer to home. The refugees
piling up on the southern tip of Spain. Brexit.
The end of the EU as we know it. “Europe is
no better. These refugees sitting in the f***ing
cold. Spain was to take 3,000 victims and we
only took a matter of hundreds. We should be
ashamed. The exodus of humanity from Syria’s
212 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
war is history happening right in front of our
eyes. And the politicians are using the suffer-
ing of the people as a weapon. Nationalism is
blooming. Hate is spreading.”
Has Bardem himself experienced any racism
first hand? “Here? No. Not in London. I mean,
Spain itself is incredibly racist. I know black
actors and they tell me terrible things that they
have witnessed and experienced. No, not for
me here, but in America, yes. When we were
shooting No Country, we were in a small town in
Texas, quite close to the border. There was one
policeman who would stop my car and ask for
my papers every morning. He wanted to push
me so I would do something. Then he could
arrest me. It was nothing in comparison to what
some people have experienced obviously, but it
felt like a taste of something bigger.”
‘I’ll never forgive
the Coens for
that damn haircut
in No Country
For Old Men’
P
enélope and Javier never talk about
Penélope and Javier. Like most
absurdly beautiful, megawatt-famous
couples they guard their privacy
ferociously. Maybe it’s my red wine or his
fizzy pop but something this evening seems
to allow Bardem to open up. I ask him to tell
me about when the pair first met, all those
years ago on the set of Jamón Jamón. Was the
attraction immediate?
“Yes, but she was underage. Nothing hap-
pened. There was obvious chemistry between
us. I mean, it’s all there on film; it’s like a doc-
ument of our passion. One day we’re going to
have to show the kids – imagine! ‘Mummy,
Daddy, what did you do in the movies
together?’ ‘Well, my children, you should cel-
ebrate this movie as you’re here because of it!’
It was a very sexy film. It still is. Penélope’s
parents were brave to allow her to do that film
– if my daughter at 16 came to me with a script
like that I’d have said no f***ing way!”
How long did it take for them to get together
eventually? “Oh, years later. We kept in contact
but we were travelling. Then we ended up
doing that Woody Allen film Vicky Cristina
Barcelona. But, again, neither of us would make
the first move. I don’t know if we were shy or
trying to be too professional. Anyway, it got to
the very last day of filming and nothing had
happened. So I thought, ‘F***! We better get
drunk!’ Luckily a friend of ours threw a wrap
party and, well, the rest is history. Thank god!”
Is Penélope as fiery as her character in that
movie? “Oh, boy. She has that feistiness. There
are those scenes where we are arguing, she’s
throwing plates and so on. I had to wonder,
‘Do I really want this?’ She has what I call the
loving blood. Passion for everything. That’s
what I find attractive. There is beauty and
there is being sexy. Penélope has both.”
It’s nearly time to go. Speaking of attrac-
tion, throughout the evening table service
has been provided by a beautiful, dark-haired
girl. Turns out she’s Spanish, from Barcelona.
As Bardem and I bid our farewells, wish our
respective families good health, and he slips
out to a waiting limo, I sit back down at
my table.
The waitress, pouring me a final glass, asks
me what Bardem was like.
“Manly,” I offer.
She giggles. Did she think he was handsome?
“Sure. Although you’re better looking.”
Pause. Blink. Excuse me?
“You’re better looking.”
I want her to say it again. Louder. With my
girlfriend on speaker phone.
Listen, I know how this sounds but I’ll take
the compliment thank you very much. So you
wouldn’t? Right. I wonder if I should ask her
to write down exactly what she just said, sign
and date it, so I can put it in a drawer in my
office. Maybe frame it. In gold and glass. When
I’m 40 I can take it out and read it aloud and
feel better about myself. An artefact of my
own wilted vanity.
“Thank you.” What else can I say?
“Yes, you’re handsome but he’s sexier. Come
again, won’t you? With your friend.”
And before I have time to realise just how
much her backhanded compliment stung my
slowly disintegrating heart, the brunette turns
on her heel and is gone, her eyes on her long
shift ahead, but her mind no doubt elsewhere,
thinking of him.
I pack up my notebook, pull on my coat and
leave, up through the secret bookcase and
out into the pushy London traffic. Outside,
I notice, it is still raining.
Pirates Of The Caribbean: Dead Men Tell No
Tales is out on 26 May.
MORE For these related stories,
FROM GQ visit GQ.co.uk/magazine
Michael Fassbender’s Commandments Of Cool
(Jonathan Heaf, December 2016)
Is Benedict Cumberbatch Too Big To Fail?
(Stuart McGurk, November 2016)
Rock Star (Paul Henderson, July 2016)
 JAVIER BARDEM

‘Penélope has
the loving blood.
Styling assistant Georgia Medley
Grooming Pablo Iglesias
A passion
Photo assistants Amets Iriondo;
Alex Orjecvovschi; Lorenzo Profilio
Digital operator Jordi Morenu
for everything’
Set designer Gabriel Escamez
Production Mathilde Wacogne at Artlist Suit, £2,925. Shirt, £325. Tie, £155.
Producer on set Sara Garcia All by Tom Ford. At Harrods. harrods.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 213

 Why aren’t you following...

Josephine
Skriver
@josephineskriver 3.7 million followers

Meet the beautifully unconventional former

footballer who swapped her studs for
stilettos and never looked back. Now a star
of the Victoria’s Secret A team, she’s burning
up phone screens across the world...
PHOTOGRAPH BY Chris Colls STYLING BY Maya Zepinic

214 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 FASHION

W hen Victoria’s Secret

Angel Josephine Skriver was
a child, football was off-limits.
Her mother, in a same-sex mar-
riage, didn’t want her daughter, who
was conceived by IVF, to fall into the
“gay family” trope by becoming a tomboy.
“She tried to get me to do everything else,”
says Skriver, “like dancing and gymnastics.”
Despite Skriver finally getting her way age 12,
playing in defence for her school team, it didn’t last long.
She started getting scouted on football tours, and, age 15, signed
to Denmark’s largest modelling agency. (Good news for her
mother, who’d been vying for this ever since she had Skriver
modelling nappies as a newborn.)
You’d think, with such a glamorous sideline, Skriver would have
quit her after-school job cleaning offices. “Actually it was great
because I could practice walking in high heels while I vacuumed,”
she laughs. “I couldn’t wear them at home since they damaged
the floor.” Sometimes, she’d run into late-staying employees.
“So embarrassing.”
But it paid off, because two years later, Victoria’s Secret came
knocking. They flew her to New York Fashion Week, then to
shoot a catalogue with Adriana Lima. “At that moment, stand-
Photograph Trunk Archive

ing beside Adriana, I knew I wanted to become an Angel,” says

Skriver. In February last year, age 22, she fulfilled her dream.
Now, the Danish model has other ambitions on the boil, such
as becoming a doctor, or going to Mars. “Recently I’ve become
really interested in space. I’d like to visit Mars for a few days,”
Swimsuit by
Hermès.
she says. “If I can work out how to get the money for a ticket...”
uk.hermes.com Someone help a supermodel out? Eleanor Halls

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 215

 The ALASTAIR CAMPBELL interview

Tony Blair
The three-term Labour prime minister is returning to fight for progressive politics
in Britain and around the world. Now, on the 20th anniversary of Blair’s historic
fırst election victory, his former Number Ten comms chief persuades him to revisit
the controversies of Iraq and asks how best to meet the challenges of Brexit, a Trump
White House and the malign influence of what he calls the media ‘mafia’
PHOTOGRAPHS BY Charlie Gray

216 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 ALASTAIR CAMPBELL

‘I don’t agonise
over the decisions,
but I do over the
consequences’
Together again: Alastair Campbell
and Tony Blair, London, 20 March 2017

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 217

 GQ have been asking me to do this for two years and I have TB: That was definitely a mistake. If you read
always resisted. It just feels a bit weird. Not the “former prime about what I have been doing these last
minister” bit, the loved by some, hated by many, defining figure ten tears you’d think I have just been going
of recent British political history; but the fact that Tony Blair is, round the world making money when I have
in addition to being my old boss, one of my closest friends. How spent the vast bulk of my time in the Middle
do you interview someone when you know what he thinks, how East, in Africa, on the things I believe in.
he thinks, what he feels and how he expresses himself almost as AC: So why did you stop being political?
well as he does, because for years you have been His Master’s TB: In a sense I felt there was no point trying
Voice? We have shared the highs of election wins, historic peace to participate still in British politics.
processes, huge progress on devolution, gay rights, schools and hospitals and much AC: Was that about letting Gordon
else besides, and the lows of ministerial scandals, policy setbacks, debilitating [Brown] get on with it?
personality clashes and the opprobrium that came to both of us over Iraq. TB: Partly. But I felt the best contribution I
So why cave in to GQ pressure now, and why did TB, as I call him in his many could make was out in the world. I started our
thousands of entries in my diaries, agree to this interview? Because what with the initiative on Africa, which is doing great work
triple-boxset Trump/Brexit/Corbyn horror story of our times, the Blair voice needs to be in ten different countries. The Foundation
heard again, more clearly, more often, and more defined by him – not by his enemies. around religious coexistence and tolerance is
Even the haters (he recognises they are numerous) must surely admit there were huge in 20 different countries. And though it is
achievements amid the controversies and that his experience and insights make him an tough in the Middle East, I spend lots of time
enduringly relevant political player. Since making way for Gordon Brown in 2007, TB there. When I go to Israel next week, that is
admits that his reputational currency has fallen as his bank account has swelled and the more than 180 visits so far. The biggest thing
unpopularity of his policy on Iraq has deepened – and that he hasn’t always handled his when you leave office is you lose the
profile well. He has circled the world, working in Africa and the Middle East, where infrastructure, you have to build it yourself.
peace remains elusive though he remains convinced it can be won. AC: Do you still see yourself on that level,
He is still the same person deep down, I think. But he is tougher, and that resilience, a prime minister-type figure?
allied to his worries about Britain and progressive politics, is what has encouraged TB: No, but I am politically active and
him to be far more active at home and set up – and fund – an Institute to develop committed. I could have done what the
arguments and policies to fight back against the populist forces he believes are parody of me is, which is go around the
damaging our politics and the world. world and just make money.
I have tried to be rigorous in my questioning, but nobody will be surprised to know AC: Do you accept your reputation went
I like Tony Blair. I liked him from the first time I met him when, in 1983, I was a Daily south after you left?
Mirror political reporter and he a bright-eyed, badly dressed, newly elected Labour MP. TB: Yes.
Eleven years later, he asked me to work for him. It has redefined my life and I often get AC: How much was that about Iraq and
asked if it was all worth it. It was. Though he could be self-centred, demanding, tricksy, how much about money?
he was (almost) always a good guy to work for – and we built a tremendous team. TB: Both. But it was also because people
Listening to him now, I am reminded of why I like and respect him so much: he is didn’t really know what I was doing.
very smart, analyses the world deeply, but can explain that analysis simply. He’s AC: And you decided not to explain.
committed to progressive politics that meet people’s aspirations and has a chance to TB: I did explain, but you don’t have the same
win power. Oh, and he is still, despite it all, a major optimist who makes you feel that instruments at your command. I always say to
seemingly impossible change can come. Brextremists be warned. people who are about to leave office that
when you leave you are no longer the first
person in front of the microphone. You no
longer shape the agenda, the agenda is shaped
by others. And in the Middle East it has suited
the next generation to say all the problems
AC: Do you remember the last time TB: Yep, it’s hard. It’s all about coming to are because of “those guys”. Whether Syria
I interviewed you? terms with the fact that when you’re running or the Middle East more generally, the issues
TB: No. Was it very memorable? for power you can be all things to all people. are difficult, as much to do with the Arab
AC: 1994, BBC Breakfast TV, you were But when you achieve power you have to Spring as what we did, but people said all
running to be Labour leader. I asked if make decisions and when that happens, and these problems came from us.
you thought you were tough enough? the process of government is your life, you AC: Who has done this post-power
TB: I suppose I had to be to say yes to that. become less popular. politics well?
AC: How have you changed? AC: But when you left, you left to a TB: I think Bill Clinton did it well.
TB: Three years as leader of the opposition, standing ovation in the Commons – AC: Are you surprised George [W] Bush
ten years as prime minister, ten years out in the toxicity followed your being PM. has vanished and gone off to spend time
the world, so you’re learning all the time. TB: I have had people attacking me all the with his paintings?
AC: Do you think you’re fundamentally way through, and particularly post 2003, after TB: I think he has done it well, in a way. He
Photograph Getty Images

the same person?
TB: Fundamentally, yes. I’ve still got the same
basic instincts, values and principles, the same
hopes. I’m still optimistic and very committed.
AC: How hard has it been to go from
being very popular to being somewhat
toxic and by some totally hated?
Iraq, but all the way through that latter period
of government. Papers like the Mail started
around 2001.
AC: So why stop? Bill Clinton never
stopped communicating. You took a
strategic decision to get out of it and
that allowed others to define you.
has immersed himself in his Foundation and
his Library, and it does excellent work, not
least in Africa. He works a lot with veterans.
He has chosen not to go out into the world.
I decided I wanted to create an organisation,
we have 200 people employed here, and it is
a big organisation for someone to create on

218 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017


their own and the work we do is fantastic.
I think now we are starting the new Institute,
with this new pillar of work around what is
the modern progressive agenda that fights
back against populism left and right, that will
give me a better voice and a more natural
political voice, and that’s what I will spend a
lot of time doing.
AC: And you have to keep earning money
to do that?
TB: You have to make, or raise, enough to do
it, pay wages, pay for office premises, all that
goes with a big organisation.
AC: On Iraq, America provided 95 per
cent of the military contribution, and we
were relatively small, yet you seem to
get more flak than Bush.
TB: That is because the Americans have a
more textured view of what is happening in
the Middle East, the complexities, the
difficulties, and there is a significant part of
opinion that will say we would not be in a
better place if we had left Saddam in place.
AC: Do you still believe that?
TB: I personally believe that, yes.
AC: You never sit down and think, “Oh my
God, why did we do that?”
TB: No, I don’t think that, but I do and have
always accepted responsibility for the failures
on intelligence, and also the failures of
planning. What I cannot do, which many
people want me to do, is to say it would have
been better if it never happened. Because I
don’t accept that. When you look at the
Middle East today, I am there twice a month,
I have far greater knowledge than I used to
have, the biggest reproach I make to myself
all the time is that our knowledge of the depth
of the religious, ethnic problems in the Middle
East was inadequate and insufficient.
AC: But that is quite a big admission.
TB: It is a big admission, I have admitted it
many times. I have a huge amount of humility
about it. The one thing I won’t accept is that
it is better you leave these dictators in place,
because it isn’t, and what the Arab Spring
showed you is that it wouldn’t work anyway.
It is a struggle for religious tolerance and rule-
based economies and that is why we have a
massive strategic interest in supporting those
modernising elements in the Middle East,
because it will affect our own security.
AC: OK, but you never lie awake at night
thinking, ‘Oh God, I wish to f*** we had
never done that’?
TB: I don’t think that but of course I go over
constantly the decisions taken and the
consequences. But in the end, I always say to
people, I am really sorry if this is such a problem
for you that you can’t listen to me. I am deeply
sorry, but I cannot undo what I have done.
AC: How did you feel at the unveiling of
the Afghanistan/Iraq memorial when you
had families of soldiers saying you
shouldn’t be there?
TB: This is a situation where if I hadn’t
been there, people would have said it
showed disrespect.
AC: I accept that, but how does it make
you feel when you get the relative of
someone killed saying Tony Blair
shouldn’t be there…
TB: Of course it makes me feel sad for them
and for their situation.
AC: But how does it make it feel for you?
TB: For me it is the same. You are never going
to take a decision like that, where you don’t
have people who feel deeply like that, and if
you lost a loved one, and you decided this was
all done on a false basis...
AC: The war in Afghanistan is still going
on; you don’t get it over that.
Brothers in arms: Tony Blair and George W Bush
walk in concert in the White House, 28 July 2006
‘Our knowledge
of religious and
ethnic problems
was inadequate’
TB: I do actually.
AC: Kosovo? Sierra Leone?
TB: It is not of the same nature. Some people
are settled in their view that it would be
better if we never went into those places
[Iraq/Afghanistan.] That is not my view. But
I understand the other point of view.
AC: Kosovo worked. Sierra Leone
worked. People feel Iraq hasn’t, added
to which – I know we didn’t lie – but they
feel we lied.
TB: Yes, and there have been six different
inquiries that have found there was no deceit.
There was a decision, but people will carry on
saying it was all lies. It was easier in Kosovo
and Sierra Leone because you didn’t have the
interference of radical Islamist ideology you
had in Iraq and Afghanistan.
AC: That’s something we underestimated.
ALASTAIR CAMPBELL
TB: Yes, and that is why the reproach I often
make is not what people reproach me for; it
is that we did not at that point understand the
depth of this Islamist question, and therefore
we thought if you removed a dictator and
gave people the chance to elect their
government, that they would do that and the
rest was a matter of reconstructing the
country. Now, by the way, people did have
their election and did decide they wanted a
free country, then we had the interference, in
the case of Iraq, from Iran on the one side and
from Sunni extremism on the other, and that
is what destabilised it.
AC: Right, but I remember at the time,
you were worried about this “hornets’
nest” argument. So do you accept we
prodded it without knowing the full
consequences? And so was it still the
right thing to do?
TB: We underestimated the consequence of
what happens when you removed a
dictatorship. The only thing I say is what the
Arab Spring teaches you is that all of these
dictatorships were going to come under
pressure and be toppled in the end.
AC: So what about Syria?
TB: When the Arab Spring began, what I said
to people was be very careful because you
have been through a situation in Iraq and
Afghanistan where you have removed a
dictatorship but then the problems begin. So
if you can evolve a transition, do that. My
view on Syria and Libya was it would have
been better to have agreed a process of
transition, so if you could cut a deal, which I
think you could have, with Gaddafi, or Assad,
for transition, that would be better. Then
having said you wanted them to go, you had
to get them out. And the problem with what
we have done in Syria is that we have insisted
he go but then not made him go. And the
inevitability therefore of a civil war as a result
of that was, I’m afraid, very clear. He was
going to fight to stay and then the Russians
and the Iranians came in on his side and
propped him up. But what has happened in
Syria in my view is a hideous blot on Western
foreign policy.
AC: So Obama, Cameron et al must take
some responsibility?
TB: I am not going to start allocating
responsibility because I know what it is like
to take these decisions. But if you had left
Saddam in place you would have had the
same problems. The Arab Spring would not
have stopped at Syria, it would have gone into
Iraq. There is a case for saying it would have
been a worse situation because in Syria you
had essentially a Shia-backed minority
keeping out a Sunni majority, and in Iraq a
Sunni minority keeping out a Shia majority.
AC: Do you dream about Iraq?
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 219
TB: [Pained look, shakes head.]
AC: So what do you dream about?
TB: Lots of things. I think about these things a
lot, of course. But if you are going to be prime
minister, your job is to take the decisions that
you think are right for the country. That is your
responsibility, and the moment you shy away
from taking those decisions, because you think
you’re going to get criticised and attacked, life
may be easier but you are failing in the prime
responsibility of the leader to take decisions. I
took a decision post 9/11 to be with America,
this was important for global security and I
took a strong view about this extremism and
how we were going to deal with it. I may have
been wrong but I did what I thought was right
and that is my responsibility. I don’t agonise
over having taken the decision, because I know
what I did was what I thought was right. Of
course I agonise over the consequences.
AC: So what do you dream about?
TB: That’s my business.
AC: We both liked Bush, but many didn’t,
and wrongly assumed he was stupid.
Donald Trump makes Bush look like a
genius, doesn’t he?
TB: I have to work with the American president.
AC: You don’t have to.
TB: I do because of the work in the Middle
East and it is extremely important to me, so I
am not going to get into a situation of slagging
off the American president. It is not what I
have done or will do.
AC: So if he called you now and asked
you do the quartet job [envoy for EU,
US, Russia and the UN], would you do it?
TB: No. I have made it clear I have not asked
for a job; that was one of those classic
made-up Mail stories...
AC: Fake news?
TB: Right. What I do in the Middle East I do
independently and it is important to keep my
independence, because it gives me relationships
with the key players, Israelis and Arabs,
because the only way to get a peace agreement
is through them working together on this.
AC: So Trump comes along and says the
two-state solution won’t work.
TB: He hasn’t said that. Their view is a very
traditional American view, there should be
two states. They are operating on the basis of
a two-state solution.
AC: So you don’t share my terror that
this guy is president of America and the
comparisons with Hitler and Stalin are
not overdone. It took Hitler a long time
to go for journalists and judges. He did it
in the first week.
TB: The comparisons with Hitler and Stalin
are ridiculous. However, as I said openly
during the campaign, I would have backed
Hillary Clinton. You can assume what my
views are. But I am working on this issue...
220 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
AC: So you met Jared Kuchner [Trump’s
son-in-law] and it was just about the
Middle East?
TB: Yes.
AC: We got accused of lying the whole
time when we didn’t. But Trump lies all
the time.
TB: Alastair, I’ve got enough issues. When
you’re me you have to choose the issues you
want to get into. One of the reasons I am
doing this whole new strain of work is to push
back against the rightist populism, some of
which has echoes in the campaign that
brought him to power.
AC: America is the most powerful
democracy in the world and now at
its head is someone who is a liar, a
misogynist, a racist, a sexist, and I think
if you are in positions of leadership
people should call it out.
TB: Where there are things I profoundly
disagree with I will and have.
AC: So what has he done since becoming
president that you disagree with?
TB: All that stuff on immigration. I’ve not got
a problem doing that on individual issues.
‘To compare
Trump to Hitler
or Stalin
is ridiculous’
AC: Is there a part of you that thinks
Obama was not great for the Middle East
and Trump could be?
TB: It’s less the former than I think it is possible
that if this administration goes down the path
I am advocating, to build a strategic alliance in
the Middle East whose purpose is to fight
extremism of the Shia sort promoted by the
theocracy in Iran, or the Sunni sort, I think that
could be productive. So whatever else is
happening in the world, and whether you agree
or disagree with what is happening in America,
in the Middle East there is an opportunity. Now
I know this is one of the situations you get into
today where things become so polarised, so if
I am with a group of Democrats in the US, and
I even suggest there might be an area where
the Trump administration can do good... The
reality is there is an alliance to be built in the
Middle East today around the whole struggle
over religious tolerance, and if the Trump
administration wants to put themselves behind
that, which they could...
AC: [Trump chief strategist] Steve Bannon
thinks the only way to deal with China is
bring it down and on religion that
Christians are superior to Muslims.
TB: I don’t know if he thinks that but I know
Rex Tillerson [secretary of state], James Mattis
[secretary of defense] and General McMaster
[national security advisor] don’t think that.
AC: And when Trump started the thing
about moving the embassy to Jerusalem,
did you not think, “Oh my God! Do these
people know what they are doing?”
TB: I just point out to you that the embassy
has not moved.
AC: Did you not think Theresa May
offering Trump a state visit when he had
barely been elected was an act of utter
sycophancy and insulting to Her Majesty
the Queen, for whom we both have
enormous fondness?
TB: No. She is perfectly entitled to get
alongside the American president.
AC: We would not have sat down and
said OK, new president, not sure about
him, let’s give him a state visit.
TB: Oh, come on, Alastair, honestly. When
George W Bush came in we made every effort
to get alongside him straight away. Based on
the fact he was president of the US. Come on,
we thought Al Gore was going to win the
election, if you remember.
AC: So you would have given Trump
a state visit?
TB: I have no idea, but I am not going to
criticise her for getting alongside the American
president. She is entitled to do that and it is
important they have a good relationship.
AC: Do you remember our first meeting
with Vladimir Putin? Do you remember
what you said afterwards?
TB: Erm... because you keep these damned
diaries, you can remember all this stuff.
AC: The first time he came to Downing
Street – before he became president – as
he left you said, “I think he is going to
be OK.”
TB: Yes. [Smiles.]
AC: Stand by that judgement?
TB: I stand by the judgement at the time
Grooming Victoria Bond at Caren Agency using Tom Ford Grooming
because at that point it was very clear he
wanted to point westward.
AC: So is he good for the world or bad
for the world?
TB: This resurgent Russian nationalism, I
understand it, I understand what motivates
it, and we have not always made the right
overtures to try and bring Russia onside. But
I don’t approve of things they are doing in
Syria or Ukraine, of course.
AC: And what about interference in
elections, the US, France, Germany,
our referendum?
TB: I completely concur with those who say it
is wrong. The real issue for Russia is can it find
its way to make the reforms to its economy?
Why is China so much more powerful?
Because they reformed the economy.
 ALASTAIR CAMPBELL

‘To win you have to go back to the centre and you

have to have policies that address the future’
His master’s voice: Alastair Campbell worked with former Labour leader and prime minister Tony Blair between 1994 and 2003, 20 March 2017

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 221

AC: Because we’re so focused on Russia,
are we not missing the main picture with
Trump: his relationship with China?
TB: Absolutely, the big thing is going to be
Trump’s relationship with China, and actually
it could be good. The American relationship
with China, most people have not caught up,
is the most important relationship of the 21st
century for sure.
AC: So Putin is a bit of a sideshow?
TB: Well, he is not a sideshow because it is
very important that China develops and
evolves politically and economically in a way
that is not based on the Putin model.
AC: Fake news: isn’t it about Trump
trying to delegitimise any source of
information other than himself and
his ridiculous Twitter feed? Putin has
done it by throwing journalists in jail,
invading countries and saying you
haven’t, blowing up planes and saying
you didn’t, killing people on the streets
of London and saying you haven’t…
TB: Yeah, but it [Russia and the West] is
different in a crucial way. I think that there is
a major problem with the way the media
operates in the West. It is becoming polarised
and partisan and not everything Trump says
about his media coverage is unfair. The left
media finds it very hard to be objective on
Trump. Now, my point is different. The right-
wing media is brutal towards progressive
politicians. You actually have a media today
that is completely partisan.
AC: The right lie more than the left, in
general. The Mail and the Telegraph are
worse than the Mirror and the Guardian.
Fox is worse than CNN.
TB: They are far more brutal and aggressive.
It does not help our cause to be partisan for
the reason you give, because what happens is
they are so much more brutal at it than we
are, and the trouble with progressive politics
is we are happy to turn over our own whereas
they defend their positions very strongly.
AC: How are we going to stop Brexit?
TB: What we have to do is mount an effective
co-ordinated campaign that has a very simple
message at the heart of it. The option of
changing your mind is open to you and don’t
let anyone tell you it isn’t. Because what the
right-wing media cartel and the government
are trying to do is to create a sense not just of
inevitability but of the impropriety of even
discussing what should happen when we
don’t yet know the terms. When Theresa May
said “Brexit means Brexit” she meant “at
whatever cost, whatever the circumstances”.
We have this situation where we say we are
going to be this great global trading nation
and we are going to start by withdrawing
from the biggest single market in the world,
on our doorstep. And we are now advocating
222 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
much greater defence and security co-
operation, which is a good thing – so pooling
our sovereignty on defence and security but
when it comes to our economy we are doing
the opposite. It literally makes no sense.
AC: It is madness.
TB: I think it is a catastrophe for Britain. But I
have to accept there has been a referendum.
Now it is important we raise this in the right
way. I have used the analogy of the house
swap and it is a good analogy. We have agreed
we are going to swap our house for another
house. We say it is going to be ugly, other
people say it is going to be beautiful. We are
going to test it, see the neighbourhood, do the
survey, go round it, see whether it meets our
needs or not. Our case has got to be that if we
come to the conclusion that the gain is very
slight, the pain is enormous, and thanks to the
concentration on Brexit, nothing else in the
country is being done properly, we are entitled
to change our mind.
AC: But because of this sense of
inevitability, and the two years… I agree
it will be a catastrophe, but will we know
that within two years?
‘I think Brexit is
a catastrophe for
Britain. It makes
no sense’
TB: That is a very good question and I’m not
sure what the answer is. It is like the currency,
15 to 20 per cent down. That is not a market
correction, that is a prediction by the
international financial markets that we are
going to be that much poorer. That will have
an impact on living standards, on inflation,
particularly with the poorest families. I don’t
know if that will become manifest, but there
is a good chance that it will do. We’ve got to
point out to people, one of the reasons they
say “Brexit means Brexit and don’t question
any longer why we are doing this...”
AC: Is because they are worried.
TB: They are supremely worried that if you
subject the claim that this is a good idea to
analysis, what are you left with? You are left
with EU migration and the European Court of
Justice. It is now absolutely clear we will keep
the majority of these EU migrants, that we
need them, and so we are actually talking
about stopping a very small number of
people, so we are not even dealing with
immigration. And on the ECJ I would defy
most people to name a European Court
decision they have ever heard of. And if we
are going to have a free-trade agreement with
the EU, by the way, we will also have to have
a disputes procedure and if that is not the
European Court of Justice it is going to be
something that looks very like it.
AC: Do you not look at Theresa May
and think she must know deep down
what she is doing is wrong for Britain?
Do you not look at that and feel a certain
contempt? Or is that my prejudice again?
TB: No, it’s not your prejudice, it’s your
opinion, and you are entitled to it. I don’t
criticise her. She inherited a situation where
she believes it is her duty to deliver Brexit.
I understand why she believes it. She thinks
if you are going to reopen this debate, you are
going to create stresses and strains for the
country and, by the way, I understand that...
AC: But she is being driven by the Tory
right and the Mail.
TB: The problem is if you had a vibrant
opposition then she would come under
pressure from the centre and the left as well
as the right. The trouble is at the moment she
is only under pressure from the right, the
right-wing media cartel, the Mail, the Sun, the
Telegraph, the Express, who just provided the
ramp for pro-Brexit propaganda pre the
campaign, and post the campaign just do
“Brexit is brilliant, it’s going to make the
country great” and no other news that might
collide with that is ever published by them.
She is under pressure from that and from the
right of the Tory party who say, “Look, if you
reopen this we’re going to split the Tory Party.”
AC: If hard Brexit does go ahead do
you think it likely Scotland becomes
independent?
TB: I don’t know. I think it is very hard to
judge. But I think the fact that Brexit clearly
imposes a big strain on the Union in Scotland
and in Northern Ireland means it imposes an
even greater obligation on us only to do this
if the gain is substantial and the pain is not
and the fact is it’s the other way round.
AC: The extent to which Northern Ireland
barely figured during the campaign or
since, at a time when in Ireland they are
seriously worried, shows we are in
political la-la land.
TB: The trouble with Northern Ireland is our
generation remembers pre the peace process
and knows how terrible it was, and the deep
mark it left. Today’s generation does not.
AC: Theresa May does. She went there
and left an impression on the politicians
she hadn’t given it much thought
TB: I don’t know whether she did or not. It is
a very difficult thing to work out how you
have a hard border with the EU in Northern
Ireland, and when we’re talking trade we have
more trade with Ireland than India.
AC: Cameron should never have had
the referendum.

TB: In the course of the last election campaign,
I think I was the only person who made a
speech on Europe precisely to warn it was not
a good idea to have a referendum, but I
understand why he felt he had to do that, and
he campaigned very hard for the right result.
AC: Do you ever dream about Gordon?
TB: Oh, for God’s sake, Alastair, get off the
dreaming thing. You obviously have a problem
with dreams, go and see your shrink.
AC: When was the last time you spoke
to Gordon?
TB: A short time ago.
AC: Re?
TB: Scotland, British politics.
AC: When was the last time you spoke to
Jeremy Corbyn?
TB: Some time ago, I guess.
AC: Has he phoned you and said, “Tony,
you used to do this job, got any tips?”
TB: No, but why should he? We disagree
strongly about the direction of the party.
AC: Do you think there is any chance that
Jeremy Corbyn could be prime minister?
TB: [Long pause, trying not to laugh.] I think
we have to pass on that one. How do I answer
that without just getting into a whole heap of
“Blair attacks Corbyn”? It is no great secret I
think the Labour Party has gone in profoundly
the wrong direction, so...
AC: At the moment the way people talk,
they say we just need to lose an election
and rebuild. But we might lose an
election and get wiped out.
TB: It is a big mistake to think that, yes.
AC: So we could be seeing the end of the
Labour Party as a serious political force.
TB: I don’t know, but I am very clear about
two things. One, if people think you can just
go into the next election, lose it heavily and
come out and rebuild... there may be no
bottom to this market, so this is a very
dangerous course indeed. And secondly,
because of Brexit, it is a betrayal of our duty
to the country if we’re not offering a
competitive opposition. My desire is for the
Labour Party to recover itself. It has gone
beyond Corbyn. This is about the direction of
the Labour Party. If the party is going to win
power again it has got to own the future.
AC: Politics is a continuum. I did a piece
about Corbyn for GQ and said “Tony
begat Gordon begat Ed begat Jeremy”.
Do you think we started this?
TB: No, because I think we were always very
clear about our own position.
AC: We paved the way for Gordon, who
changed a bit, then Ed who changed
more, and now Jeremy.
TB: But Gordon was in a supremely strong
position to become leader of the party. Rather
than go back over the personalities, there is a
much bigger question about the future of
progressive politics. And I think the
progressive political position only wins when
it builds out from the centre and when it has
policies designed for the future.
AC: That has been rejected.
TB: It has been rejected by the Labour Party
and we can see the result. We lost in 2010, lost
even bigger in 2015, and we are now 15 points
adrift of a Tory government and losing safe
seats. So the one thing I find weird is when
people who are running things ascribe their
defeats to those of us who won victories. All I
can say to people in the party is if you want
the chance to get power, you’ve got to go back
to the centre, definitely and clearly, and you
have to have policies that address the future.
AC: You’re not arguing for a return to
New Labour?
TB: We have to demystify New Labour.
AC: Do you not think the centre is
being rejected?
TB: No, I don’t think the centre is rejected by
the people. In 2015 Cameron won from
essentially a centre-right position.
AC: If we go to the next election with a
hard Brexit Tory leader on one side and
‘The media have
crossed the
line and operated
like a cartel’
a hard left Labour leader on the other,
you say that leaves millions politically
homeless. Surely the logical conclusion
is the churn in our politics can only be
broken by some new force emerging?
TB: I think it is extremely difficult. Or [by] the
old political forces reasserting their sense.
AC: That is just not happening in the
Labour Party.
TB: No, it’s not.
AC: And people like you and me are
opting out of that and devoting our
energies to Brexit because we think
maybe we have a chance.
TB: Also because it is the most urgent thing
facing the country, and one of the things the
Labour Party has to understand about the
situation is that when you have something as
critical as Brexit, the country, millions of
people out there, are expecting us to lead.
AC: Could there be a case for a new
pro-European party that fights the
next election purely on this?
TB: I think it is incredibly difficult to start
something new.
AC: What do you think of Nicola Sturgeon?
TB: I think she is a very effective politician.
ALASTAIR CAMPBELL
AC: What do you think of her basic
argument that Brexit has changed the
nature of the argument and Scotland
should have another vote?
TB: I think it is a change. People in the Labour
Party were angry with me when I said it was
a material change, but as I said, I can hardly
go through the referendum campaign saying
“If you vote Brexit it is going to be a problem,
for the Union” and then afterwards say it is
not a problem at all. But having said that, I
do not think independence is sensible for
Scotland even if Brexit happens.
AC: But if you were Scottish and you saw
a way of Scotland, independent, staying
in the EU, rather than being part of this
Brexited UK, is that not a very attractive
option, even with the obstacles?
TB: I still think it is better for Scotland to
remain part of the UK.
AC: Even when you think coming out of
the EU is going to be a catastrophe?
TB: Yes, because I think the Union between
England and Scotland is so important.
AC: Paul Dacre, force for good or bad?
TB: The politics that he drives through the
Mail is very damaging for Britain.
AC: Murdoch, force for good or bad?
TB: I disagree with him on politics too.
AC: So why did we get too close to him?
TB: Because we had been savaged by the
media through the Eighties and early Nineties.
AC: Who is the worst of those two, Dacre
or Murdoch?
TB: No, no, no. I have changed my view about
the media because of Brexit.
AC: So you’ve come to my view.
TB: Nobody could ever be quite as jihadist as
you. Let me make my point about the media.
I think their activities in Brexit changes the
dynamic of their relationship to politics. This is
a decision that changes the whole course of our
country’s history... whatever issues I had with
the media and the way newspapers had
become the playthings of a small group of
powerful individuals, my view is they crossed
the line when they operated like a cartel in
respect of Brexit. What I am saying is that to
have this small group of individuals who
control the press, on the right, who provided
that ramp for the propaganda, and who provide
the vilification of anyone who dares oppose
that now, when this is not a decision of
newspapers as institutions, but the decision of
individuals – the papers would not be taking
these positions unless instructed to do so – I
think that’s a line they have stepped over.
AC: So when I tried to get you to do
something years ago, I was right?
TB: It is also because when you go and fight
them, in my position, not yours, it is a full-on
fight, they come at you with everything
they’ve got. They are like a Mafia.
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 223
Beaches, bikes
and Balearics:
Ride Europe’s
most beautiful
coastlines and find
your piece of quiet

Funky
Formentera
Britain’s Balearic love affair has long been good for little else than cheap
laughs and E4 docu-soaps. Now, GQ follows in the sandy footsteps of
Cara Delevingne, Leonardo DiCaprio and thousands of Lanvin-clad
Italians to carve a private piece of the Med’s sparkling little secret
STORY BY Kathleen Johnston PHOTOGRAPHS BY Chloe Mallett

224 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 FORMENTERA

Let the other

guests take the
public ferry.
You, my friend,
are in a rush to
unwind...

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 225

 he watershed moment en route Italians looking to avoid crowds of their coun- planning on banning selfies and man buns may

T to Formentera comes when a

man changes his watch. As you
slip the Rolex Sea-Dweller from
your wrist and replace it with the
Bulgari Carbon Gold on a woven
strap – realising you’ll only be looking at it to
see if it’s time to have that first drink – the will
to recline into idle island life takes over.
Just as ritual dictates that you sniff a cigar
before cutting it, to really savour the swap,
wait until you’re aboard the 25-minute water
taxi from Ibiza to La Savina. Let the other
guests take the public ferry; you, my friend,
are in a rush to unwind.
After you’ve been handed a cool towel by a
deckhand, as the stress of the airport fades from
memory and the 12-mile stretch of land comes
into view, that’s the time to make the switch.
The contentment you feel in that moment is
what holidays to Formentera are all about. Well,
that and lunch.
Often referred to as Ibiza’s hippy “little sister”,
the smallest of the four major Balearic Islands
has been a place of elegant escape since the
Sixties. Titans of chill from Bob Marley to Jimi
Hendrix once flocked to Formentera. There’s
even a rumour that Bob Dylan watched the
sunset over Africa’s Barbary Coast from the Cap
De Barbaria Lighthouse – although reports that
Zimmy was sporting a pair of cyan Vilebrequins
at the time are, as yet, unconfirmed.
Still, it’s not the affection of musical legends
that’s made Formentera the coolest holiday
destination in the Mediterranean since Jackie
Kennedy went to Mykonos in search of her tan
lines. For this, the blame must be laid at the
door or, rather, the boot and heel of the Italians.
The Italians adore Formentera like Italians
adore bad techno. During high season, as
much as 75 per cent of the population is from
the land of the passionate hand gesture and
the island has become a bolt hole for wealthy
trymen on the beaches of mainland Spain.
From slick lunch spot 10.7 to GQ’s favour-
ite beach shack (or chiringuito), Lucky Beach
Bar, co-owned by Bolognesi gentleman Davide
Busi, half the bars and restaurants are run by
Italians who live here year round.
Ask any of Formentera’s Italian dev-
otees why, and you’ll hear the same thing.
That it looks more like the Maldives than
the Mediterranean aside, it’s
because this tiny utopia just
doesn’t change. Ibiza’s super-
If you’re
clubs and megahotels are yet not having
to arrive in Formentera – devel-
opers have been stopped from a good time
doing almost anything at all by
the iron fist of the authorities,
you invited
who have strict aesthetic crite- the wrong
ria for new structures and, most
significantly, a blanket ban on
guests
beachfront buildings.
“Unspoilt” might be one of the most over-
used words in the history of travel writing, but
there’s no other way to describe Formentera’s
postcard #nofilterneeded beaches, white-
washed villages, heathery scrub, salt plains
and sand dunes. As the island’s website says,
this is “the last paradise of the Mediterranean”.
Modern tourism hardly exists in Formentera.
There’s no airport, very few hotels (though no
shortage of luxury villas), no designer shops
and no American fast-food chains. Many of the
roads are dirt tracks, much of the pine-covered
countryside protected and areas in the north
part of a World Heritage Site. The Ses Salines
Natural Park safeguards a Unesco-protected
seagrass, posidonia, that’s one of the oldest
living organisms in the world and which filters
the water offshore and keeps it crystalline.
But the Italians’ best-kept secret is almost
out, thanks to the likes of Cara Delevingne and
Leonardo DiCaprio. Claims that the island was
have been wildly under-reported, but British
interest has been piqued by increasing reports
of celebrities descending on Formentera.
Package tour operators are now attempting to
cash in on the tranquillity, and the possibility
that the island may be only one summer away
from ruinous change – of morphing into a gro-
tesque Majorcan mini-me – seems increasingly
plausible. Let’s face it, we know what the infat-
uation of our compatriots can
do to Iberian idylls. If there
was ever a time to soak up
Formentera’s restorative “time
stands still” vibe it’s now.
Swim, eat, drink, repeat: this
is the format for Formentera’s
golden days. This is a destina-
tion for people who like the
good things in life, sure, but
aren’t taken in by bright lights
and flashy fanfare. Yes, it’s luxury, but it’s laid-
back luxury. Think stealth wealth – nothing
more ostentatious than a creased white linen
Sunspel shirt, say. Be prepared to feel like your
wallet has undergone open-heart surgery – even
the supermarkets are extortionate. Two weeks in
Formentera would be enough to make Warren
Buffett’s eyes water.
or the moment, holidaying in
F
  Formentera is a sign of good taste.
That and solid evidence that you
like a beach. Even those steadfast
sunbathers who usually refuse to
waste a minute of tanning time get tempted
into the cerulean sea, especially at Platja de
Ses Illetes, a long sliver of white sand on the
island’s north coast with ocean on each side.
Close to the port of La Savina, Illetes is where
the Ibiza crowd comes to play. The number of
billion-pound boats dropping their anchors here
in high-season rivals the Monaco Yacht Show,

The perfect car for Formentera... Citroën Mehari

It’s built from the dog-ends of
a Citroën Dyane and 2CV, has
corrugated plastic bodywork
and it’s named after a breed
of camel, but don’t let that
put you off. Launched in 1968,
the go-anywhere convertible
spent the late Sixties serving
as a harbour car for yacht
owners on the Côte d’Azur,
Photograph Getty Images

elevating it to the height of

chic for wealthy, bohemian
holidaymakers. It remains
a surefire sign that your
Performance:
destination sur la plage has Top speed,
been colonised by the cool. 62mph
Where to rent one: Engine: 29bhp
formenterameharis.com/en 602cc flat-two

226 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 FORMENTERA

Where to eat and drink On Formentera, you’re always close to the coast and never far from a top-class menu
Kiosko 62
Little more than a shack, this
rustic wooden chiringuito
on Platja de Migjorn is basic
in the best way possible
– expect Formentera’s
typical barefooted bliss.
The vibe is relaxed and
friendly, despite the
first-class cocktails and
excellent potential for
people watching. Head
down late in the afternoon
for a sundowner (or several)
and watch the skies turn
pink from this prime
coastal spot.
The Blue Bar
Also situated on the sandy
stretch of Platja de Migjorn,
this has been a hippy
hangout since the Sixties. A
mecca for musicians, legend
has it that Bob Marley, Pink
Floyd and Jimi Hendrix
frequented this trippy bar.
The Mediterranean menu
makes for a laid-back lunch,
but the big draw is still the
music. Stop off after drinks
at Lucky Beach Bar to hear
owner Kaya play one of her
ambient after-dark sets.
bluebarformentera.com
10.7
One of the few places in
Formentera where you
won’t feel out of place if
you’re dressed up – by
which we mean wearing a
shirt – this sophisticated
seafood restaurant is one
of the island’s best lunch
locations. Think expansive
sea views and stunning
sashimi (plus traditional
Med cuisine) with a sublime
symbiosis between the
music volume and amount
of alcohol consumed come
sunset. 10punto7.com
El Gioviale
There’s no shortage of
Italian food in Formentera,
but if it’s unpretentious yet
perfectly executed pasta
your heart desires, head
here. Served straight from
the pan, the seafood
spaghetti is worth
rhapsodising over, as is
the service. Request the
table under the canopy of
the fig tree. If you’re in Sant
Francesc Xavier for breakfast,
then around the corner is the
brilliant, child-friendly Ca Na
Pepa (canapepa.com).
Beso Beach
Spend an idle afternoon
at Beso Beach eating out-
of-this-world paella with
your feet still in the sand.
The palm-lined roof fosters
an unpretentious beach-chic
vibe, but don’t be fooled, as
one of the best restaurants
on Platja de Ses Illetes, with
a menu by famous Catalan
chef Carles Abellan, this is
still billionaire territory.
Arrive for your reservation
by yacht and the club will
send out a speedboat to
bring you in. besobeach.com

Coast to cocktails: Going

from beach to bar rarely
requires more than a very
short walk in Formentera

Drink this... Hierbas Ibéricas Mojito You haven’t fully experienced Formentera until you try Hierbas,
an aniseed-flavoured liqueur made from native herbs that works as well in cocktails as it does as a “chupito” (shot). Long days require long
drinks, so switch the rum in your mojito for 50ml of Hierbas – all you need to add is sugar, lime and crushed ice.

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 227

Claims that Formentera
is planning on banning
selfies and man buns may
have been under-reported

Sand bar: Beach bodies step

directly into Juan Y Andrea, one
of Formentera’s satisfyingly
expensive restaurants; (right)
Platja de Ses Illetes is flanked on
two sides by the Mediterranean

228 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 FORMENTERA

with hordes of beautiful people disembarking

to spend an afternoon at the obscenely expen-
sive Juan Y Andrea. Barefoot waiters serving
champagne sangria and lobster risotto will
What to
entice day visitors, but you’ll find better food wear at an
in the Italian restaurants of Sant Francesc Xavier, all-day lunch
the island’s miniature capital, and especially at
Naked sunbathing is big in
Il Gioviale, a trattoria run by a trio of Italians.
Formentera, but even bigger
Macondo Pizzeria in the nearby village of Sant is the all-day lunch, where the
Ferran de Ses Roques is also worth a visit and only dress code is “some
yet another example of the Italian influence over semblance of clothing”. But
the island. Barely a minute on the island’s only you need to bring your A
major road goes by without an Italian on a moped game. The gent two tables
zipping past, typically with a woman sporting down might look like a deck
little more than a mahogany tan, intricate tattoos hand, but those are Lanvin
and a Chloé string bikini sat behind them. slippers and that sunlounger-
creased shirt is from Ami...
They’ll be heading up to Es Pujols, the most
resorty town and a hotbed of Campari-quaffing
Italians. The hottest haunt here is People Bar.
The smell of grilled fish mingled with Marlboro
Lights and the constant chatter of bosomy old
Italian ladies can get a bit overwhelming.
Sunglasses by Moscot, £240.
At Liberty. liberty.co.uk
he beach to spend the bulk of your

T holiday on is Platja de Migjorn.

This 6km stretch of sand and sea
is where you’ll find the best chir-
inguitos. Start at Kiosko 62 before
sauntering all the way down to
Flipper & Chiller, a Mediterranean restaurant
with an unbelievable terrace owned by Nacho
Vidal, Spain’s most famous porn star, via a cock-
tail stop at Lucky Beach Bar. Swimming shorts by Sundek,
Given the hedonistic, rosé-fuelled all-day £85. shopsundek.com

lunches, this is generally a back-early-to-your-

private-villa kind of an isle, but it’s along Platja
de Migjorn that you’ll find somewhere to spend
after dark. And if that after-dinner drink at Blue
Bar turns into six, there are two (very casual) Shoes by Charlotte Olympia,
£525. uk.charlotteolympia.com
nightclubs where you can join the Italians for
some fist-pumping before bed. It’s a very dif-
ferent sort of debauchery than the throbbing
titillation of Ibiza. A couple of shots of Hierbas
Ibéricas down and you’ll be ready to get back to
the pad. Should said shots impair your memory,
then rest assured your cab driver will get you
to your villa even without the address. All you
need is the name and one of the island’s white
taxis will whip you back quicker than you can
WhatsApp the babysitter. Just be sure to pro-
nounce it right or you could end up on the other Shirt by Richard James, £185.
At Selfridges. selfridges.com
side of the island, scaring someone else’s wife.
You come to Formentera to make your own
fun. With food, drink and scenery like this,
excellent company is all you need to turn
the island into your own personal paradise.
Photograph Roger Stillman

Formentera feels conspiratorial. It’s one of those

places you would rave about to your friends if
not for the fear the wrong people might hear.
If you’re not having a good time you’ve invited
the wrong guests. Lucky for you the taxi (for
them) is but a short Mehari ride away. After
all, this island ain’t big enough for both of you.

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 229

 Where to stay Hotels on Formentera are few but sublime, while luxuriously secluded villas abound
Gecko Hotel
& Beach Club
If you’re going down the
hotel route then book a
beach-facing suite at this
secluded, Balearic-meets-
Rivieria-style boutique resort
on Platja de Migjorn. Well-
groomed but easy-going, big
on yoga but with poolside
cabanas made for nursing
a mid-morning pick-me-up,
Gecko’s got it all. It’s a
ten-minute drive from Sant
Francesc Xavier, but only a
stroll along the sand away
from most of the island’s
most charming chiringuitos.
geckobeachclub.com
230 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
Cala Saona Hotel & Spa
If you plan on hitting up
Formentera with your family,
and big, ballsy luxury hotels
are usually your child-friendly
thing, this is your ultimate
island base. Set just off
the shoreline of Cala Saona
– a small-but-splendid
west-coast bay – you can see
all the way to Ibiza from the
rooms. The shallow waters
are ideal for the children’s
“beach to pool and back
again” routine, while the
beach bar’s killer Caipirinhas
are enough to satiate even
the most stressed-out parent.
hotelcalasaona.com
Es Ram
If a private villa’s more
your thing, but you dig the
easy-breeziness of resort
life, head to celebrity
bolthole Es Ram on the
south side of the island.
Nestled in a pine forest
beside the cliffs of La
Mola, the resort has six
secluded “viviendas” –
and chic doesn’t even
begin to describe it.
Expect canopied beds,
a wood-heavy natural
colour palette, swathes of
white muslin and the bright
pop of purple bougainvillea.
esramresort.com
Las Cabecitas
Less than a ten-minute drive
from Sant Francesc Xavier,
hidden among vineyards
and olive trees you’ll find
a Formenteran “finca” so
perfect you’ll have a hard
time hitting the beach.
Suited to big groups of
friends or several families,
this elegant seven-bedroom
property has it all: think
infinity pool, glamorous
outdoor eating area,
impeccable design and an
independent guest house
ideal for stashing the couple
you know will argue all week.
myprivatevillas.com
Casa Daisy
The smaller, four-bedroom
Casa Daisy close to Cala
Saona is the villa to rent
for two families holidaying
together. Completely private,
with a pool facing the sea,
watch the sunset every
evening over magical Es
Vedrà while enjoying a Copa
de Balón on the garden
terrace. A beautifully
furnished sanctuary split
across two structures, if the
Balinese bed doesn’t keep
the children occupied, the
charming attic entertainment
den will. decodeformentera.
com/villas/casa-daisy.html
Illustration Jitesh Patel
 FORMENTERA

Sign in: The beaches of

Formentera are more Maldives
than Mediterranean – why would
you want to be anywhere else?

How to get there

There’s no airport in
Formentera, so you need
to travel by sea from
Ibiza. It’s a 12-mile
boat journey
that takes
around 25
minutes.
Water taxi:
The best way
to get across to
Formentera is
to book a luxury
water taxi through Ibiza
Delivers, complete with
sound system, onboard
bar service (sponsored
by Dom Pérignon)
and room for up to
eight passengers.
ibizadelivers.com/
water-taxi

Ferry: Regular ferries

from Ibiza (Port d’Eivissa)
to Formentera (La Savina)
cost around £20 each
way. There are four
companies to choose
from depending on what
time you want to travel.
In high season, play it
safe and book in advance.
directferries.co.uk
Yacht: Charter from
Ibiza to Formentera.
smartcharteribiza.com;
ypigroup.com
British Airways flies from
UK airports to Ibiza, from
£52. britishairways.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 231

THIS
MAN
STANDS
FOR
LONDON
In a time of political turmoil, Sadiq Khan rose above the
scaremongering and division to win the greatest mandate
in British electoral history. When GQ met the capital’s
mayor in his old boxing gym south of the river, we asked
him how the son of a migrant bus driver beat bitter
tribalism to become an international statesman – and
what Labour’s only natural-born winner might do next...
STORY BY Hugo Rifkind PORTRAIT BY David Bailey
 SADIQ KHAN
Grooming Tracie Cant

Some say he’s Ed Miliband’s greatest legacy. But, unlike Miliband,

Sadiq Khan was ruthless enough to win
Mayor of London Sadiq Khan photographed for British GQ, 5 January 2017

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 233

Capital gains (clockwise Justin Welby and chief
from top left): Sadiq Khan rabbi Ephraim Mirvis, 27
is sworn in as mayor at June 2016; with Sir Mo Farah
Southwark Cathedral, at the Rio Olympics, 13
thanking voters for August 2016; at Earlsfield
choosing ‘unity over Amateur Boxing Club,
division’, 7 May 2016; south London, where his
Labour leader Jeremy brother is head coach;
Corbyn applauds Khan’s Khan’s mayoral contest
speech at the party rival, Zac Goldsmith – here
conference, 27 September debating at The Union
2016; Khan breaks fast Chapel – ran a campaign
during Ramadan at mired in controversy, 5
Lambeth Palace with April 2016; at Earlsfield
archbishop of Canterbury boxing club in 2015

he mayor of London isn’t much of
T
  a boxer, but the man can surely
skip. The second half of this I see
for myself, by the ring in Earlsfield
Amateur Boxing Club, south
London, as Sadiq Khan takes his jacket off
and bounces up and down for the GQ cameras,
shirt and tie still intact, black leather shoes
slapping on the floor. The first bit I get from
his brother Sid, who is the club’s head coach.
Though maybe I wasn’t meant to pass it on.
He looks just like Sadiq, does Sid. You walk
in and the first thing you think to yourself
is, “Oh, there’s the mayor of London, but
he’s beefed up and put on a tracksuit.” Sadiq,
Sid and their other five brothers (there’s
also a sister) all used to box here from the
age of eleven. To use the parlance of south
London, this is his manor. The Henry Prince
Estate, where they all grew up, is half a mile
down the road. Everybody knows his dad
was a bus driver, because he says it so often
it has almost become a joke. Here, though,
it really does seem pertinent. The No44 bus,
which he drove, brought me here from Tooting
Broadway Tube station.
Browse the photos on the wall here in this
gym and you’ll spot Khans aplenty in faded
snaps and newspaper clippings of teenage
triumphs. Sadiq himself is in a few, but he’s
Photographs Earlsfield Amateur Boxing Club; Eyevine; Getty Images; PA Images; Twitter/@mayoroflondon/@sadiqkhan
normally a bit older, maybe an MP by now,
come back to present a trophy to some skinny
kid in a vest. Even now, when he walks around
there’s a strong vibe of local boy done good.
It’s possessive, though, rather than awestruck.
Trainers slap him on the back. Kids in the ring
nod at him and he nods back.
“Oh, listen,” he says, when we sit down toe-
to-toe by the ring upstairs, like chess boxers
doing the chess bit, “there’s no airs and graces
about it. There is that sense of ‘our boy’s
done well’.” When he goes to the mosque on
Fridays it’s the same. “Yeah you get the odd
person who wants to take a selfie. But the vast
majority of people couldn’t give a monkey’s. As
it should be.” It keeps him anchored, he says.
Keeps his feet on the ground. “Because other-
wise?” he shrugs. “Listen, you do get delusions
of grandeur. It does go to your head. Because,
you know, it is quite... fantastic.”
Sadiq Khan is not just a mayor. Sadiq Khan
is a choice about what London wants to be.
Which is not just me gushing, by the way,
because I’ll be mean enough in a minute.
It’s just an observation. This son of a south
London bus driver (had you heard?), this
first-generation Brit, is the first Muslim to
lead a major European capital. He has a bigger
personal mandate than anybody else in British
political history, bigger than that of any other
Muslim in the Western world.
“I didn’t really appreciate the impact of that
election,” he says now. “I really didn’t. We
were walking towards the count on Friday, and
I saw the international media pack, and I still...
didn’t quite get it. And it was only when, a few
weeks afterwards, when, you know, Christiane
Amanpour wants to interview me. I’m not name
dropping. But, you know, all these people
around the world. You’ve got Justin Trudeau
ringing me, not just other mayors. You think,
something is going on here. People were saying
to me, senior journalists, ‘I’ve just been on
holiday and they were talking about you in a
village in Cambodia.’ Something is happening.”
Even Donald Trump took note. Then just
the Republican frontrunner, Trump was still
telling people he planned to ban all Muslims
from entering the United States. “There are
always exceptions,” he said, magnanimously,
of London’s new mayor. We’ll come to that in a
bit. The point is, if 2016 was the year of divisive
political campaigns – Brexit and Trump being
the obvious examples – then Khan’s election
was the one that went the other way.
During that election, the Conservative Zac
Goldsmith called him “radical”, “divisive” and
“a real danger”. He accused him of “pander-
ing to extremists” and of “ambiguity... when
it comes to keeping Londoners safe”. Labour
MP Yvette Cooper wrote in the Times that
Goldsmith’s “subtle dog-whistle” had turned
into “a full-blown racist scream”, and I’m not
wholly sure she was wrong. Though London,
in the end, wasn’t having it.
‘Listen, you do
get delusions of
grandeur. Because,
you know, it is
quite... fantastic’
“Can I just say this about Zac Goldsmith?”
says Khan now. “Before the campaign began,
I said publicly what I felt privately, which is
that I was hoping he was the Tory candidate.
Why? Because I’d got to know him in parlia-
ment. He’s a nice guy. And at the beginning
of the campaign, he was still the Zac I know.”
In the green room, he says, when you’re off-
camera, “You get on with Tories. Then you do
the debate – fisticuffs, verbally – then again
afterwards. It’s theatre, right? And something
happened. I don’t know what. Maybe one day
Zac will tell us. But one day...” he clicks his
fingers, “...he stopped being friendly. Stopped
talking to me. No eye language. It got nasty
and horrible.”
Khan says now that he’s still not sure
whether Zac grasped the impact of the lan-
guage he was using. “There are so many people
who feel the ripple effects of that campaign,”
SADIQ KHAN
he says, “and I’m not sure that Zac fully appre-
ciated that.” He brings up, unprompted, the
fact that Jemima Goldsmith, Zac’s sister, has
Muslim children from her marriage to Imran
Khan. “Zac has got nephews who are going
to experience some of those consequences,”
he says, “his own sister. So I find it difficult
to understand.”
he funny thing is, this is Sadiq Khan
T  we’re talking about. On the one
hand, he’s a totemic trailblazer for
the future of European social inte-
gration. On the other, he’s a malign
sleeper Islamist menace. “And he’s only Sadiq
Khan!” is how one Labour insider puts it.
“A mid-ranking Milibandite! How the hell did
that happen?”
I spoke to a handful of Khan’s former col-
leagues and rivals in the Labour party while
writing this article, some on the record and
more off it. All of them wish him well, if only
because it must be nice, in these dark days, to
have at least part of your party not be a farcical
disaster. Almost universal, though, was a sense
of mild bemusement. The magnanimity, the
public popularity, the global relevance: nobody
saw them coming. Some liked him and some
really didn’t, but nobody thought he was that
kind of guy.
“We all thought he was a bit slippery,” says
one. “Mercurial,” says another. “A bit ‘all things
to all men’, although not a showboater. He’s
rarely attracted attention when he has not
wanted to, which is actually quite a skill.”
Several, though, tell me that Khan went for
the mayoralty like they’d never before seen
him go for anything. David Lammy had already
thrown his hat in the ring and remembers
asking Khan for a meeting after the rumours
began. “I looked him in the eye and I said,
‘Look, Sadiq, what are you going to do?’ and
he said, ‘I’m going to run and I’m going to win.
And I thought you should know that.’” Lammy
laughs, incredulously. “He hadn’t even declared
at that point. I had a lot of respect for him.”
Others describe him, equally startled, as Ed
Miliband’s greatest legacy. “Ed didn’t have
many mates,” says one, “just Sadiq and Chuka
[Umunna] really. So he played a blinder in
exploiting that.” Within the party, in fact,
there is a narrative which sees Khan’s inter-
nal ascension as very much in the mould of Ed
Miliband’s. Labour is a tribe, they say, made
up of other tribes, and he knew exactly how
to navigate them all.
Diane Abbott, another contender, expected
the backing of the unions, and particularly
Unite, but Khan beat her to it. “Diane was
really pissed off,” I’m told. She also might
have expected the love of the Corbynistas, but
Khan, who had helped Jeremy Corbyn onto the
ballot in 2015, successfully courted them
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 235
 too. And lo, when the final internal show-
down came, with Khan versus Tessa Jowell,
the dynamic was really that of Ed versus David
Miliband all over again. Jowell was the centrist,
the experienced politician. She’d brought the
2012 Olympics to London and for any outsider
was the obvious choice. But Khan had worked
the machine.
Unlike Miliband, though, he was ruthless
enough to win the final election too. When
Goldsmith described him as “Corbyn’s man in
City Hall” Khan pointedly distanced himself
from his own leader, both by criticising him
for not singing the national anthem and for
his failure to combat anti-semitism. When he
was finally sworn in at Southwark Cathedral,
Corbyn wasn’t even there.
This, many say, is a bit of a pattern for Khan.
As an MP, he was pro-Heathrow expansion. As
mayoral candidate, he was against. “He’s not a
conviction politician,” is how one former col-
league described it, putting it nicely. “He’s a
pragmatist.” Still, it seems to work.
do enjoy the rough and tumble,” says
I  Khan now about all of this. “But I enjoy
achieving things far more. Look, I was an
MP for eleven years. And I felt I achieved
more in my first five than my last six.
Why? Because we were in power.”
Anyway, he says, it’s different when you’re
mayor. “Only a small part of my job now is
tribal politics. A lot of it, and I say this not in
a pompous way, is above party politics.” Some
in his party, he says, might call him “a sellout”
for cooperating with Tories and big business.
Though, as he sees it, “It’s getting things done
for the city that I love.”
Khan backed Owen Smith in the Labour
leadership election of 2016 and his relation-
ship with Corbyn, who won, remains grim.
Still, if he regrets nominating him in the first
place, he won’t admit it. “We lost the election
of 2010 badly,” he says. “We lost again in 2015.
And the idea, in those circumstances, that the
membership should be denied an opportunity
to discuss how to win back power? I don’t
think so.”
Well, yes, sure, but it doesn’t seem to be
turning out swimmingly, does it? He shrugs.
“The reality is – and I say this in a fraternal
spirit – if you can’t win a leadership contest
and defeat Jeremy Corbyn, how do you real-
istically think you’re going to win the next
general election?”
Put on the spot, he honestly doesn’t seem
to know what Labour should do to win back
power. Reading between the lines, I’m not
actually sure he regards it as particularly his
problem. Or at least not yet.
Originally he wanted to be a dentist. His
A-levels were all in science and maths.
Eventually, though, partly as a result of
236 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
a maths teacher telling him he was good at
arguing, but partly just because he really liked
watching LA Law, he decided to be a lawyer,
instead. Out of eight siblings, he says, seven
went to university. He went to the University
Of North London.
“It was very political,” he says. A few years
earlier, there had been a big fight over a guy
called Patrick Harrington, a student, who was a
member of the National Front. Other students
picketed his lectures. There were sit-ins. It was
the Eighties. Things were different.
“When I was growing up,” he says, “anyone
who wasn’t white was black. It meant all of us.
Though when I was at university, we started
to be called Asians. Then the politicisation of
faith only happened during the Rushdie affair,
which was around that time, and suddenly
people were calling us not black any more,
or Asians, but Muslims. And it was peculiar.
It was identity politics. It was all changing.”
He wasn’t into any of that stuff, he says.
He’d joined Labour when he was 15 and gone
‘I don’t know what
happened. One
day Zac Goldsmith
stopped talking to
me – it got nasty’
to one meeting and then not gone back for two
years because he didn’t understand what was
going on. His father, the bus driver (“Have I
mentioned,” he asks, eyes twinkling, “that he
was a bus driver?”) was Labour, but not politi-
cally active. He always read a broadsheet – the
Telegraph or the Times – but that was it. “We
were blessed” he says. “Everybody worked. I
never saw anybody going out to work in a suit,
but they were in uniforms – bus driver, train
guard, in a factory. Everyone was working.”
He calls it “the London story”, the idea that
“you work hard, you get a helping hand and
you can achieve anything”. In the Khan fam-
ily’s case, that helping hand meant a council
house and good schools. “I can’t remember
people being on benefits,” he says, perhaps
dangerously, “because there was a work ethic.”
Nor, contrary to what Zac Goldsmith might
have had you believe, did he grow up with a
sense of burning injustice, or even any particu-
lar anger towards the system. He remembers a
school sports event being cancelled because of
industrial action and a period where his dad’s
job (he was a bus driver) looked like it might
be under threat. Once or twice, he remembers
the older brothers of friends being stopped
and searched.
“It felt unfair,” he says now, with a shrug,
though that’s as far as he’ll go. “London made
my family and myself,” he says. “You know,
we’ve got cousins in Pakistan. They’re ethnic
majority and religious majority. We’ve got
cousins in India. Ethnic majority, religious
minority. And they say to me and my family,
‘We couldn’t have done in Pakistan or India
what you’ve done there.’ Which is, you know,
well the 44 bus you see outside was driven by
my dad and...”
Yes, I say. You said.
fter university he went to law
 A school in Guildford and became
a solicitor. When his opponents
want to link him to dodgy people,
this is the time they focus on. Lots
of his work involved actions against the police.
Often, there was a race angle. Occasionally,
there was an implied faith angle, as with the
case in 2001, in which he successfully fought
to overturn a ban on Louis Farrakan, leader
of the Nation Of Islam, from entering the UK.
Eventually Khan became the chair of Liberty
and recruited Shami Chakrabarti.
By this point, many of his cases involved
actions against the government of Tony Blair. Or,
as he puts it, “There was a tension between the
views I had and the things the Labour govern-
ment were doing.” In 2005, he became a Labour
MP anyway. A year later he was a signatory, and
some say the orchestrator, of a letter criticising
Blair’s policy in the Middle East. Two years after
that, he was bugged by the Metropolitan Police
while visiting a constituent, Babar Ahmad, who
was being held in prison on terrorism charges.
There was quite the fuss at the time, not least
because it’s illegal to bug an MP. Moreover, one
rather suspects it might not have happened if he
hadn’t had a name like Sadiq Khan.
“I made a conscious decision at the time not
to make a big song and dance about it,” he
says now. “Let me tell you why. I’ve spent my
entire adult life encouraging minority commu-
nities to get involved in mainstream society,
civic society. And I don’t want to start telling
you my war stories. The racism I experienced
as a lawyer? How can I encourage you, as
a young Asian, a young African Caribbean, a
young woman, to become a lawyer if I’m telling
you how horrible it was? Sure, people were
telling me, and I’m being diplomatic, ‘For good-
ness’ sake, if they’re bugging you what chance
do we have?’ But if you make a big song and
dance about it, you are inadvertently putting
people off.”
Look across the Atlantic, and not just across
the Atlantic, and you will find those who
truly think what Zac Goldsmith was hinting
at, that Khan is representative of a wave of
Islamisation, sweeping Europe. He’s on his
firmest ground, I think, when he explains pre-
cisely why they are wrong.

“The reality is,” he says, “there is a narrative
that so-called Isis and Daesh have. And their
thesis is that it is incompatible being a Muslim
and a Westerner, that it is incompatible to have
Western liberal values and to practise the faith
of Islam. And what breaks my heart is when
you’ve got sensible people, who should know
better, playing into that thesis.”
Sensible people like Donald Trump? He
grimaces. When Trump said that London’s
new mayor could be an exception to his
Muslim ban, he reminds me, his response
was to invite Trump to London instead. The
invitation still stands. “Absolutely,” he says.
“The president should come to London.
There shouldn’t be a state visit. What I hope
happens is that the PM rescinds the offer
of a state visit until the ban is lifted. But
if there is going to be a visit, I’m going to
make sure President Trump sees the best of
London and that includes ethnic-minority
London. I want him to meet the greatest
sportsman ever, Sir Mo Farah, and...”
Really? He’d take Donald Trump by his tiny
hand and lead him to Mo Farah?
“Oh, I’m not sure I’d hold hands,” he says
quickly. “That’s for others to do. But I’m
looking forward – and I say this not in a pat-
ronising way – to educating him. Because
I think he recognises, in his private moments,
that the way you campaign and the way you
govern are different.”
For Khan, though, I’m not sure they were.
If there has been a shift, between the “slip-
pery” machine politician he used to be and
the magnanimous London incarnate he now
considers himself, then it seems to have
happened during the campaign itself, in oppo-
sition to Goldsmith. Though in fairness, the
signs were always there.
“I’ve always been impressed how pro-gay
he’s been,” says Chris Bryant, the Labour
MP. “Never a shadow of doubt. And when
I hear somebody say, ‘We don’t want a Muslim
mayor’ for reasons like that, I want to say, ‘No,
you’ve got it badly wrong.’”
Khan’s faith is, I suspect, more central to
his life than he quite likes to say. “I pray,” he
says. “During Ramadan, I fast. I give money to
charity. I try to be good, although I don’t pros-
elytise and I don’t make a song and dance.”
He and his wife, Saadiya, also a solicitor, raise
their two daughters as Muslims. They’re both
teenagers now. And if they wanted to marry
Photograph Twitter/@sajidjavid
outside the faith? “It’s a choice for them,” he
says, “when they’re adults. Look, my family
has married people from all sorts of different
ethnic backgrounds. It’s one of the great things
about London. How we evolve, in relation to
identity. My mum’s got 24 grandchildren. Three
great grandchildren. Lots of different ethnici-
ties. My children have been raised Muslims,
but you have to wait and see what happens.”
‘President Trump
will see the best of
London, and that
includes ethnic-
minority London’
Grass routes: Sadiq Khan often crosses party lines
to work with communities secretary Sajid Javid
During his campaign, he made a point of
reaching out to London’s other religious
communities, turning up in synagogues
and gurdwaras, embodying the idea that
one minority is much like another. Speaking
personally, as a wholly secular Jew, that
stuff counts for a lot. When Ramadan began
last year, he was to be found at Lambeth
Palace, posing for a selfie with the arch-
bishop of Canterbury and the chief rabbi.
“That photograph went viral,” he says, very
proudly. “It does so much good. Showing that
London is about Jews, Christians and Muslims
coming together.”
here’s a strong streak of myth-
 T building about Sadiq Khan and
I’m not sure he always knows he’s
doing it. While running for mayor,
for example, he claimed that Blair
had called in Labour’s four Muslim MPs, after
7/7 and told them that Islamic terrorism was
their responsibility. “I said, ‘No, it’s not,’” was
how he reported it. “‘Why have you called us
in? I don’t blame you for the Ku Klux Klan.’”
Shortly afterwards, Khalid Mahmood and
Shahid Malik, who would have been two of the
others, disputed his account. “Khan’s depiction
of his bravado is almost comical” they said in
a letter to the Guardian. It’s a very Sadiq Khan
story. As in, you badly want it to be true. It
would be terribly fitting if it was. Only, I’m
not sure it is.
What you sense now, though, is a man
set upon living up to his own myth. Really,
Goldsmith did him a massive favour and Trump
has too. Without them, he might still be the
machine Labour politician, Mayor perhaps,
SADIQ KHAN
but not for any special reason. Watching him
on television during the Blair years and the
Gordon Brown years and, frankly, the Miliband
years too, he always seemed quite an angry
figure, rolling his eyes, almost petulant. There’s
none of that any more.
These days, it’s all about transcending divi-
sion. He mentions several times, for example,
how proud he is of working with Sajid
Javid, the Conservative communities sec-
retary, who is also the son of a Muslim
bus driver. (“You wait ages for one,”
Khan quips, “and then two come along at
once.”) He’s also proud of working with
the police, who are the same police he
used to sue. “How difficult their job is,”
he says, “the risks they take. You see it in
movies and think, you know, police offic-
ers rush towards danger. And they do!
I meet these people every day. You learn
a new respect.”
Will the glow last? Maybe, maybe
not. Some in Labour believe the unions
will turn on him before long, regarding him
as a sellout and a disappointment. Though
I reckon he might turn that one to his advan-
tage. A greater risk might be hubris. “Actually,
I went to the United States recently,” he says,
at one point. “Met with Rahm [Emanuel] in
Chicago. And Bill [de Blasio] in New York. And
the Clintons. And Trudeau in Montreal. And
people say, ‘If London can do this...’ And I’m
not comparing myself to Barack Obama! But
people are like, ‘We elected a minority, but he’s
not a religious minority!’ And so...”
And on it goes, although thus far you can
forgive it. Mainly, he’s just delighted. “I feel like
the boy with the golden ticket,” he says, quite
openly. “I’ve got the best job in the world.” As
to what he’ll be in four years time, let alone
eight, well who knows? As I leave him, and
Sid too, and head back to Tooting Broadway on
the 44 (which his dad drove, by the way), my
strong hunch is that he won’t stop at mayor.
Yes, he skips around and, yes, he fights
a little dirty. Pull it all together, though, and
he reminds you of an optimistic time that
all the worst people in the world want us to
forget. A time before multiculturalism was a
dirty word and before “left of centre” meant
Jeremy Corbyn. And if you miss that world,
and God knows I do, then Sadiq Khan doesn’t
half pack a punch.
Hugo Rifkind is a writer for the Times.
MORE For these related stories,
FROM GQ visit GQ.co.uk/magazine
Alastair Campbell Vs Owen Jones (May 2017)
Agent Blair, Reporting For Duty, Sir
(Matthew d’Ancona, May 2017)
Sadiq Khan Wins Politician Of The Year
(Charlie Burton, October 2016)
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 237
Swim shorts by Orlebar Brown,
from £175. orlebarbrown.com

The now
‘We are about the
experience – where you
are, who you’re with,
sunshine and good times’
238 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
 FASHION

Ten years ago,

photographer Adam
Brown leapt in at
the deep end with a
tailored swimming
shorts start-up.
Since then, his label
Orlebar Brown has
transformed not only
travel clothes, but
also the men wearing
them. Here, he tells

wave
GQ about the greatest
journey of his life...
STORY BY Robert Johnston

PHOTOGRAPH BY Julian Broad

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 239

 ike Newton and his apple, and

L
 
Halcyon days:
Archimedes and his overflowing
bath, some random observations
Summer is not The Hôtel Du Cap
Eden-Roc (1976)
can be game-changing. And while just a season – by Slim Aarons

it might be pushing it to compare

a fashion label to the discovery of gravity, it’s a state of mind
Orlebar Brown, which celebrates its tenth
anniversary this year, was founded thanks to
just such a random observation.
In 2005, photographer Adam Brown was in
Rajasthan with a big group of people to cele-
brate a friend’s 40th birthday. After a morning
spent lounging around the hotel pool, he
was put out that he had to change to go into
lunch. “I thought it was a bit stupid, bearing in
mind we were in the actual hotel. That’s when
I thought that it would be so much easier – and
practical – if, rather than swimming shorts, you
had shorts that you could happen to swim in.”
He also noted that men reached an age
when they felt less comfortable about getting
undressed in public so needed something more
flattering than board shorts or budgie smug-

Photographs Slim Aarons/Getty Images; Todd McLellan; Jody Todd

glers. And so the idea of Orlebar Brown was
born. “It’s a tailored approach to swim shorts.
We’re not a swim short in a sports sense of the
word, but we’re a short you can swim in, and
that was the inspiration.”
In London, Brown joined forces with
an old friend, Julia Simpson-Orlebar.
“We wouldn’t have called the business
anything else. Orlebar Brown
sounded older than we were
– it gave us gravitas.” They
researched everything from
zips to fabrics, although,
not long after the company
launched Simpson-Orlebar
decided the entrepreneur’s
life wasn’t for her. “Quite
rightly she wanted to concen-
trate on her three children.”
Still, the name stuck.
Brown had no experience in Bag by Tumi x Orlebar Brown, £395.
uk.tumi.com. Right: Swim shorts, from
the fashion industry so signed himself up for a £145. T-shirts, from £65. Towel, £55. All
two-day class at a local college, which proved by Orlebar Brown. orlebarbrown.com

a valuable crash course in business. “I then A place in the sun: Adam Brown
enrolled on a summer school course at Central founded Orlebar Brown in 2007
Saint Martins, so I could find myself a pattern
cutter. I’ve still got some of the original draw-
ings I did, which got the whole thing started.”
From the outset, he decided to treat every-
thing as a challenge rather than a problem. “So,
when it came to things like sourcing fabric, I
went to a fabric show, then I went through
about eight factories trying to find one that
could make a good quality pair of shorts at
a price I wanted.” Most importantly, he wasn’t
afraid to ask a lot of questions.
Financed by a mix of overdrafts and credit
cards, he was based in his spare room like a true
start-up. To begin with he made 1,000 pairs
of shorts in five colours and four styles.

240 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 FASHION

‘Whether it’s your favourite sunset or your sports car

– we provide the framework for people to interpret’
Pool resources: Fifty-five elements – deconstructed above – go into the making of each pair of Orlebar Brown classic OB shorts

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 241

 And, if you want proof that Brown’s initial
idea was a good one, those original four styles
are still available today – the Bulldog, Dane,
Setter and Springer.
The very first pair were actually sold in
a Starbucks in Kensington, to a friend in late
2006 who bought them as a Christmas present
for her husband. “She recently returned them
to me for my archive,” explains Brown, “and
they’ve been well used.” Then, in 2007, the
brand made its debut online. “In those early
days, I was standing in a storage unit in Fulham
Broadway ironing shorts and packing them
up. I probably spent most of my time stand-
ing in a queue at the post office to send them
out and sorting exchanges. I was a one-man
band and I did everything. I was taking a suit-
case round, knocking on doors trying to get it
into stores. But that was the best way to learn
every element of the business.”
B
rown describes himself as a “going
with your gut” type of entrepre-
neur, learning as he went along.
The first wholesale customer was
the achingly cool The Shop At
Bluebird on London’s Kings Road and from
there Orlebar Brown snowballed. “Getting
into Selfridges was definitely a turning point,”
he says. “Although I was told I shouldn’t be
on the shop floor there I would turn up, mill
around and make myself a general nuisance
on Saturdays and Sundays. I would take any
opportunity to meet customers. To be honest
the staff were delighted to have someone to
help sell it. I could talk about the product
and the story behind it. I’m not trying to sell
anyone else’s story, it all came from me – it’s
all genuine.”
It was only after a gruelling two years in
business that Brown took on his first employee.
One thing that has stayed with Brown since
those earliest days – and something he’s drilled
into everyone who has worked with Orlebar
Brown since – is his belief that all feedback
from customers is good, even when it is bad.
“The big thing is learning. The secret was
when the customer sent a complaint or letter,
we didn’t take it as a criticism. Just because
people are complaining because the fit isn’t
right, they don’t like the colour, or the stitch-
ing isn’t right, that’s actually an opportunity
to talk to people. I’m sure that’s one of the
reasons we’ve succeeded.”
Another reason for his success is surely
down to the fact that Brown has recognised
that summer is not just a season – it’s a state
of mind. “Ultimately – and I know it sounds
like an annoying cliché – we are about the
experience. When you’re wearing Orlebar
Brown, it’s about where you are, who you’re
with, sunshine, travel, good times. That’s what
people are buying into.”
242 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
From left: T-shirt, £95. Swim shorts, £175.
Rucksack, £245. Trainers, £95. Jacket, £445.
T-shirt, £75. Trousers, £175. Trainers, £95.
All by Orlebar Brown. orlebarbrown.com
Hôtel Du Cap Eden-Roc Pool (1976)
Adam by Slim Aarons (previous page)
Brown’s “This image would be number
top five one on any list. I love the whole
greatest juxtaposition of the sea with the
beautiful man-made swimming
summer pool. Craggy rocks, fabulous
moments white modernist building, sunshine,
big skies and people enjoying
themselves, what’s not to love?
Plus it’s the image on our
bestselling photo print short.”
Mustique in the mid-Eighties
“These were the Mick Jagger and
Jerry Hall years – a very particular
time on a very particular island.
Alas, I never experienced it
personally but all the pictures just
seemed to look super chic, relaxed
and beautiful.”
Weekend Utopia: Modern Living In
The Hamptons by Alastair Gordon
“This amazing book traces the
rise of beach resorts in the
Hamptons, with beautiful pictures
of the architecture of the holiday
homes and the people who lived
there. The whole idea of a
‘weekend utopia’ sums up the
spirit of Orlebar Brown – what
could be better?”
Club Tropicana by Wham! video
“Colourful, catchy, camp and a total
classic – genius.”
Alain Delon in Purple Noon (the
original Talented Mr Ripley film)
“An incredibly stylish French film
released in 1960. Alain Delon
looks great and it features lots
of towelling and linen.”
Thanks to this philosophy, Orlebar Brown
has now expanded way beyond its core swim
shorts. “By 2010 I realised we needed to make
T-shirts and polo shirts. We created a small col-
lection, I sent an email out to our mailing list
and then went to Devon for the weekend. By
the time I came back we had made £25,000
worth of sales, just on shirts. At that point, it
was an astronomical amount of money for us.”
Today, 55 per cent of the business is non-
swimwear products – and there is a small but
increasingly important push into womens-
wear. “We’ve moved off the beach and into
the resort. People want holiday clothes that
they can wear every day. That’s where Orlebar
Brown’s opportunity lies.”
Nevertheless, it is still the shorts that most
men think of when they hear the name Orlebar
Brown, and the brand makes sure that there
is always something new on offer. Early on
there were collaborations with the likes of the
late illustrator Alan Aldridge, as well as the
archives of the British interior designer David
Hicks. Today its latest house print is named
after Françoise Gilot, Picasso’s lover, muse and
the mother of Paloma, who is also a successful
artist in her own right. New collaborations
include one with Land Rover design director
Gerry McGovern and for its tenth anniversary
OB has introduced a new short design – the
Jack. Based on the Bulldog, it is a little more
sport-based than lifestyle and costs £95.
Brown’s great love, however, is photogra-
phy, and he has mined this passion by creating
shorts featuring iconic shots by Slim Aarons,
the American who described his own work as
“photographing attractive people doing attrac-
tive things in attractive places”. (Aarons was
also reputedly one of the inspirations behind
the Hitchcock film Rear Window.)
One of Orlebar Brown’s most successful
projects has been its “Snapshorts”, where
customers are invited to create their own shorts
using their own imagery – often doing attrac-
tive things in attractive places. “Personalisation
Photographs Alamy; Julian Broad; Getty Images; Scope Features
is hugely important,” says Brown. “We provide
the framework for people to interpret. Your
wedding, your favourite sunset, your dog
or your sports car – I don’t really care. It’s
ultimately up to you. It’s easy for us to do and
it’s a good way for customers to engage with
the brand, and why not?”
And, of course, the best summers are made
of memories.
MORE For these related stories,
FROM GQ visit GQ.co.uk/magazine
The Business Of Fashion (Jonathan Heaf, March 2015)
Andrew Weitz Will Dress You To Success
(Vincent Boucher, February 2017)
See It, Click It, Wear It (Robert Johnston,
October 2016)
 FASHION

‘We’ve moved off

the beach and into the
resort, with holiday
clothes people want to
wear every day’
Jumper, £145. Sunglasses, £199.
Both by Orlebar Brown. orlebarbrown.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 243

RED HOT
AND BLUE
From streetwise jeans to stripped-back basics, dressing à la
française has never been more essential. Channel a Parisian
sensibility with the youthful labels giving denim a French twist

PHOTOGRAPHS BY STYLING BY

PA Hüe de Fontenay Melanie Huynh

244 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 FASHION

From left: Axel wears T-shirt

by McQ Alexander McQueen,
£100. mcq.com. Jeans by
Diesel, £127. diesel.com

Robin wears jacket, £1,395.

Loafers, £395. Both by
Coach. coach.com. Jeans,
£142. T-shirt, £80. Both by
The Kooples. thekooples.
com. Ring by Stone Paris,
£3,480. stoneparis.com

Jak wears dress by

Alexandre Vauthier, £516.
alexandrevauthier.com.
Bangle by Stone Paris,
£2,430. stoneparis.com

Maria wears top, £149. Belt,

£340. Both by Diesel Black
Gold. dieselblackgold.com.
Jeans by Acne, £145.
acnestudio.com. Boots by
Mexicana, £296. mexicana.fr.
Earrings, £435. Ring, £470
by Chrome Hearts. At
Selfridges. selfridges.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 245

From left: Robin wears jumper, £673. Top, £332. Both by Givenchy. givenchy.com.
Jeans by The Kooples, £142. thekooples.com. Bracelet, £2,330. Ring, £935.
Both by Chrome Hearts. At Selfridges. selfridges.com

Jak wears jacket by Calvin Klein Jeans, £145. calvinklein.com. Skirt by Coach,
£625. coach.com. T-shirt by Faith Connexion, £167. faithconnexion.com. Hat
by Maison Michel, £240. michel-paris.com. Earrings, from £455. Ring, £525.
Both by Chrome Hearts. At Selfridges. selfridges.com

246 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 FASHION

From left: Robin

wears jacket by Diesel
Black Gold, £1,058.
dieselblackgold.com.
T-shirt by The Kooples,
£80. thekooples.com.
Sunglasses, £1,190.
Necklace, £3,320. Both
by Chrome Hearts. At
Selfridges. selfridges.com

Axel wears jacket by

DSquared2, £435.
dsquared2.com. Top by
Sandro, £100. sandro-
paris.com. Necklace by
Dior Homme, £332. dior.
com. Sunglasses by
Chrome Hearts, £890. At
Selfridges. selfridges.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 247

From left: Axel wears jacket
by The Kooples, £252.
thekooples.com. Jeans by
Stone Island, £185.
stoneisland.com. Shirt by
Diesel, £120. diesel.com

Jak wears jacket, £1,711.

Top, £545. Both by Faith
Connexion. faithconnexion.
com. Jeans by Calvin Klein
Jeans, £115. calvinklein.com.
Ring by Chrome Hearts,
£525. At Selfridges.com.
selfridges.com. Bracelet by
Maison Dauphin, £8,500.
maisondauphin.com

Robin wears jacket by

DSquared2, £1,600.
dsquared2.com. Jeans by
Acne, £162. acnestudios.
com. T-shirt by The Kooples,
£80. thekooples.com.
Necklace, £3,320. Bracelet,
£2,330. Both by Chrome
Hearts. At Selfridges.
selfridges.com

248 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017

 FASHION

From left: Axel wears

jacket by Dior Homme,
£2,027. dior.com.
Trousers by Lacoste,
£145. lacoste.com.
Top by Sandro, £100.
sandro-paris.com.
Ring, £3,338. Ring,
£1,550. Both by Stone
Paris. stoneparis.com

Jak wears top by Faith

Connexion, £545. faith
connexion.com. Skirt
by Coach, £625. coach.
com. Bangle, £2,430.
Ring, £4,075. All by
Stone Paris. stoneparis.
com. Ring by Pristine,
£13,368. At Montaigne
Market. montaigne
market.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 249

250 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017
 FASHION

From left: Maria wears top, £149. Belt, £340.

Both by Diesel Black Gold. dieselblackgold.
com. Jeans by Acne, £145. acnestudios.com.
Earrings, from £235. Ring, £470. Both by
Chrome Hearts. At Selfridges. selfridges.com

Axel wears jumper by McQ Alexander

McQueen, £165. mcq.com. Jeans by Diesel,
£127. diesel.com. Boots by Mexicana, £296.
mexicana.fr. Necklace, by Dior Homme, £289.
dior.com. Ring, £760. Bracelet, £2,910. Both by
Chrome Hearts. At Selfridges. selfridges.com

Jak wears dress by Alexandre Vauthier, £516.

alexandrevauthier.com. Earring by Chrome
Hearts, £455. At Selfridges. selfridges.com.
Bangle by Stone Paris, £2,430. stoneparis.com

Robin wears jacket by Diesel, £213. diesel.com.

T-shirt, £80. Jeans, £142. Both by The Kooples.
thekooples.com. Ring by Stone Paris, £3,480.
stoneparis.com. Bracelet by Chrome Hearts,
£2,330. At Selfridges. selfridges.com

JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 251

From left: Maria wears
bra by Petit Bateau, £15.
petit-bateau.fr. Jeans by
Sandro, £185. sandro-paris.
com. Earring by Chrome
Hearts, £435. At Selfridges.
selfridges.com

Jak wears bra by Petit Bateau,

£9. petit-bateau.fr. Jeans
by Mother, £195. mother
denim.com. Bracelet by
Maison Dauphin, £8,500.
maisondauphin.com. Ring
by Chrome Hearts, £525. At
Selfridges. selfridges.com

Robin wears jeans by Lacoste,

£102. lacoste.com. Necklace,
£3,320. Charm, £295. Bracelet,
£2,910. Ring, £760. Ring,
£1,050. All by Chrome Hearts.
At Selfridges. selfridges.com

252 GQ.CO.UK JUNE 2017


Photographic assistant Yacine
Sadine Digital assistant Chloé May
Truong Styling assistants Pauline
Charrière; Manon Hvejsel Sarron
Models Axel at 16Men; Jak at
Elite; Maria D at Supreme; Robin
at Elite; Make-up Gregoris
Make-up assistant Aya Fujita
Hair Oliver Schawalder Hair
assistant Shuhei Nishimura
Manicurist Huberte Cesarion
JUNE 2017 GQ.CO.UK 253
FASHION
From left: Jak wears
jacket by Sandro, £280.
sandro-paris.com. Ring
by Stone Paris, £826.
stoneparis.com
Robin wears jacket by
Faith Connexion,
£1,751. faithconnexion.
com. Shirt by Diesel,
£120. diesel.com
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the affordability stakes whilst providing a purist vintage design. Visit www.danhenrywatch.com 4. Meet UNE Rockwork, a young Swiss watch brand; unconventional and authentic. The UNE special
edition of 150 watches features the rarest of rocks from the Karst cave deep inside the world famous Jungfraujoch (11,333 feet above sea level), this magical place in the heart of the Swiss Alps. Handpicked
and handcrafted by the two makers, the watches are all individually numbered and truly unique. Find yours on www.une.rocks 5. Done Watches present this modern and sporty look Swiss Made watch
equiped with a traditional hand-wound mechanical movement decorated with a fanned “Côtes de Genève” design (visible on the back of the watch). This stainless steel timepiece, with saphir glass, leather
bracelet and deployment buckle is delivered in a watch box including a leather travel pouch and an additionnal nylon bracelet. All that for only CHF 795.35. Visit www.donewatches.ch 6. Croft Watches
are refined and tasteful in appearance, while solid and steadfast in nature. Their Richmond range of watches invites recognition not least for their superior materials, but their versatility to be worn both
formally and casually. www.croftwatches.com 7. Akrone. The K-02 – an automatic diving watch with the French depth record of 267 meters, as you can subtly see on the dial. A 100% French design and
assembly, made by experienced watchmakers. Inspired by the sea, the hands represent buoys and show the time in this elegant and sophisticated edition, limited to 500 pieces. Visit www.akrone.fr 8. Hemel
releases limited edition watches for the entry level luxury market. Their classic, mid-century, military timepieces have fluid curves while the domed piano black dial, domed crystal and whisper of a coin
edge add distinction to the proprietary case design. Downward curving lugs provide a more comfortable fit. Visit www.hemelwatches.com 9. Walter, by Sante Castignani Watches. Dedicated to Walter
Dorwin Teague, one of the leading designers of XX century, Walter is crafted with reclaimed silver and bakelite, starting from a reclaimed antique handwind movement by Langedorf. Totally handmade,
like all Sante Castignani watches, this is a unique and unrepeatable piece. Visit www.santecastignaniwatches.com 10. Elliot Havok aims to offer premium quality watches at extremely affordable prices.
The QCW is built to last 25+ years with the best materials possible – Swiss Ronda Movt, Sapphire, 316L Steel, and Raw Italian Leather. Visit www.elliothavok.com
 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

11 12 13

AUDAZ WATCHES
SCUBA MASTER COLLECTION
WWW.AUDAZWATCHES.COM

16
14
15

FIRST 42 ROSÉ GOLD/WHITE

3495 SEK. £315
TUSENÖ
WWW.TUSENO.COM
INSTAGRAM: @TUSENOWATCHES MESH CHRONO £49
GILCHRIST WATCH CO.
WWW.GWCWATCHES.COM
QUOTE GQJUNE FOR 10% OFF

THE DAILY COLLECTION £203

RICHARDT & MEJER
WWW.RICHARDTMEJER.DK
INSTAGRAM: @RICHARDTMEJERWATCHES
TEMPUS WATCH WITH BLACK
GALLIANO 3 £170 MESH STRAP £95
ILIRIO WATCHES VOCA WATCHES
WWW.ILIRIOWATCHES.COM WWW.VOCAWATCHES.COM
17 INSTAGRAM: @VOCAWATCHES

THE JUGLAN NUT BLUE BY

LEAFWOOD £109.84
WWW.THELEAFWOOD.COM
INSTAGRAM: @LEAFWOOD

18
19

CHAPLIN ROSE GOLD 20

$399 AND FREE SHIPPING
ADAPTIC WATCHES WWW.DONKYLNE.COM JACOPO DONDI
FLINT WITH GREY STRAP $80 THE INIZIO $260 AUD
WWW.ADAPTICWATCHES.COM WWW.JACOPODONDI.COM

11. Swedish Tusenö has in a short period of time become a brand to remember. Through a mix of exciting materials and an extraordinary attention to detail their pieces speak to both watch
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705

enthusiasts as well as the style conscious man. Featured here is one of their models from the ”First 42” series in rosé gold, priced at approximately £315. Visit www.tuseno.com for further information.
12. Audaz Watches create bold, unique design watches with reliable quality at affordable prices to give the best value to the end user. The Scuba Master Collection with Automatic Movement is built
from the base with a bespoke case, bezel, crown and silicon band. It is constructed for water resistance up to 1650 feet with Helium Escape Valve, to achieve the best standards for an unbeatable dive
watch. Visit www.audazwatches.com 13. Gilchrist Watch Co is home to an unrivalled collection of unique affordable timepieces. The strikingly minimal Mesh Chrono from Megir boasts a steel
mesh band, precision stopwatch and calendar window at 4 o’ clock. 3 colour options, £49. Shop Minimal at www.gwcwatches.com Quote GQJUNE for 10% off, expires 30/06/17. 14. The Daily collection by
Richardt & Mejer is an unpretentious yet characteristic range of watches inspired by their Danish design heritage – defined by uncompromising lines, craft and innovation in design browse the collection
at www.richardtmejer.dk 15. Everything a watch needs to be - ergonomic, beautiful, maintenance-free and affordable. Latest model by Ilirio Watches from their collection of captivating timepieces
which prove to be an excellent addition to any wardrobe from elegant to casual. Beautiful packaging and next day delivery are included with all orders made on their official
website: www.iliriowatches.com 16. Voca Watches are the new movement in contemporary design – quality Swiss movement timepieces featuring quick-release interchangeable straps that switch your
style in seconds. Merge precision with flair and create your perfect wristwear statement now at www.vocawatches.com With prices starting at just £85, why wouldn’t you? 17. Adaptic Watches – Each
watch comes with both an easily interchangeable leather and nylon strap, to let your time adapt to your lifestyle. Simple, Stylish, Durable. 50m (5ATM) water resistant. Get yours online for $80 USD
at www.adapticwatches.com 18. Ultra-lightweight, eco-friendly and very affordable, the Juglan Nut Blue by Leafwood is a men’s watch made from almost 100% recycled walnut wood with a wooden
strap. Appealing to the fashion conscious yet environmentally aware Visit www.theleafwood.com 19. The Chaplin watch was inspired by the iconic style of the 1920s. Don Kylne & Co. create quality
timepieces designed with longevity in mind, and they are inspired by travels. Visit www.donkylne.com for more information. 20. Jacopo Dondi creates watches designed to display time in a much more
natural way than your everyday wristwatch. Whilst the classic styling and elegant details look undoubtedly familiar, these timepieces, ultimately, change the way you perceive time.
Visit www.jacopodondi.com
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

Beach Boys... Here Comes The Sun!

3

ZAC POSEN CLEMENT

BLONDE
£165
ZAC POSEN
TRACES NAVY SWIM SHORT €65 WWW.ZACPOSEN.COM NAVY JUPITER BOARDSHORT: $68
SUNNOBYBENECAPE.COM FAIR HARBOR
INSTAGRAM: @SUNNOBYBENECAPE WWW.FAIRHARBORCLOTHING.COM
INSTAGRAM: @FAIRHARBOR
6

4
5

BELVOIR & CO BAYAHIBE SWIMWEAR

JADED £45.99 BAYA CARAIBE SWIMSUIT 98€
WWW.BELVOIRCO.COM FRENCH DESIGN | WORLDWIDE INSPIRATION
INSTAGRAM: @OFFICIALBELVOIR WWW.BAYAHIBE-SWIMWEAR-EN.COM
INSTAGRAM: @BAYAHIBE.SWIMWEAR BASZE
THE CLASSIC SWIM SHORTS
WWW.BASZEOFFICIAL.COM
ANDREW & COLE INSTAGRAM: @BASZEOFFICIAL
SUMMER TIMES £135
WWW.ANDREW-COLE.COM 10
INSTAGRAM: @ANDREWANDCOLE_OCEANWEAR

THE RICHLITE COLLECTION

£180 / $299 AUD 11
8 WWW.VEIGAEYEWEAR.COM ZERO BREEZE
INSTAGRAM: @VEIGA_EYEWEAR $599
WWW.ZERO-BREEZE.COM

12

9
APEX HK018-BLK £125
TIMEMACHINE: SUSTAINABLE SURFBOARD
UNION HK016-BLU £95
WWW.RIOTSURFBOARDS.COM 13
WWW.HOOKLDN.COM
INSTAGRAM: @RIOTSURFBOARDS
INSTAGRAM: @HOOKLDN HVNC SWIM SHORT – ENLIGHT COMPASS II G2 DECK SHOE
WWW.HVNC.COM.AU £99
WWW.CHATHAM.CO.UK

1. Sunno By Bene Cape is a Barcelona-based menswear brand that creates unique and stylish swim shorts for the good times. Their designs are inspired by art and nature and all their
garments are made locally using the best materials. Check out their eye-catching shirt and swim short combos at www.sunnobybenecape.com 2. Introduced in 2002, Zac Posen is a collection of
daywear, suiting and red carpet eveningwear. The brand’s iconic aesthetic has established a leadership position in glamorous daywear and evening dressing and it is available in the finest luxury
department and specialty stores worldwide. 3. Fair Harbor is a small, minimalistic beach town on Fire Island, New York, where all one needs is a surfboard and pair of trunks. To save our oceans and
protect places like Fair Harbor, each pair of boardshorts is made out of 11 recycled plastic bottles. Visit www.Fairharborclothing.com 4. Andrew & Cole creates swim shorts for men with a comfortable
lining without a net. This allows you to do summer activities all day in complete comfort! Visit www.andrew-cole.com for high-quality, eye-catching and comfortable swimwear! 5. Belvoir & Co create
sunglasses with affordable but luxury designs. They have collaborated with TOWIE star Tommy Mallet and ship to over 30 countries worldwide. Visit www.belvoirco.com 6. French technical swimwear
and menswear brand, Bayahibe Swimwear draws inspiration from cultures and landscapes around the world to offer unique models with a creative and worked design. From these inspirations are born
our collections full of stories, with dynamic and flamboyant prints. Visit www.bayahibe-swimwear-en.com 7. Basze uses modern and classic design elements to redefine swim shorts that are driven by
versatility. These perfect pairs of swim shorts can take you from day to night. Whether it is a hike, a pool, or a nice dinner, these shorts are fit for any spontaneous adventure. Definitely a ‘must-have’ for
this Summer season. Visit www.baszeofficial.com 8. The stunning, futuristic Apex flat-sheet metal frame or the modernized classic Union square frame are the perfect stylish summer accessories. Worn
by music artists and fashion influencers alike, Hook LDN sunglasses are all you need this season. Visit www.hookldn.com 9. Riot surfboards is a young and progressive brand born in Munich, Germany
in 2012. Inspired by design, technology and innovation Riot has become an imperative brand in European surfing. Riot belongs to individuals who appreciate excellence in aesthetic design, technology
and originality. View their boards at www.riotsurfboards.com 10. A new type of thinking for eyewear design, The “Richlite Collection” showcases a sustainable paper based composite structure in the
frames. Veiga’s unique frames are crafted on the South Coast of NSW Australia, with the intention to raise the bar in thoughtful eyewear, one piece at a time. 11. Zero Breeze, a portable air conditioner.
It can be used in a variety of spaces, such as tents, offices, dorm rooms or just out in the open air. It also has other great features like a Bluetooth speaker, LED flashlight and a cell phone charging station
with two USB ports. Visit www.zero-breeze.com 12. The HVNC swim short is crafted from digitally printed four-way stretch material made from recycled plastic bottles. This premium, latest-technology
fabric is lightweight and quick drying. Comfort and style is maximised by a 4.5” inseam leg length with inbuilt superfine mesh support. Effortlessly practical, with HVNC’s signature prints, this stylish design
features an elasticated drawstring waist, side pockets, front coin pocket, and a back welt pocket. Visit www.hvnc.com.au 13. Chatham. Lightweight men’s boat shoes made in super soft standout leathers.
Perfect for on deck or on the high street. Latex rubber sole unit for enhanced grip, moccasin construction for optimal fit. Available in sizes 6-15 (incl. 7.5, 8.5, 9.5 and 10.5). Visit www.chatham.co.uk for all
new colours for SS17.
 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

The Fashion Collection...

1 3

MALCOLM X JACKET $45

INSTAGRAM: @UNDERMINDEDONES HAND KNIT FLOWER
LAPEL BOUTONNIERE $19
4 LOVELY LAPELS
WWW.LOVELYLAPELS.COM

THE VIPERS CUFFLINKS

OH MY GOT CUFFLINKS
WWW.OHMYGOTCUFFLINKS.COM
INSTAGRAM: @OMGCUFFLINKS
TWITTER: @OHMYGOTCUFFLINK
6

7
NEWPORT BEACH €44,90 DESERT DUST MEN
WWW.EDMUNDS.BE MEN’S 7 CHAKRA BRACELET
INSTAGRAM: @EDMUNDS.BE WWW.DESERTDUSTMEN.COM
INSTAGRAM: @DESERTDUSTMEN

LEO INDIGO ZIP HOODIE $125

MADE IN THE U.S.A
SHOPSHARPLY.COM
USE SHARPLYGQ FOR 15% OFF ORDER
EXPIRES 30/06/17
ROBERT GELLER DENIM
$250
WWW.CURATEDLS.COM
INSTAGRAM: @CURATEDLS

10
8
9
PATTERNED SHIRTS £75 EACH
MAGNUS BY CROWNED
WORBOYS SHIRTS
$125.00
WWW.WORBOYSSHIRTS.COM
WWW.LIVECROWNED.COM
INSTAGRAM: @WORBOYSSHIRTS
INSTAGRAM: @CROWNED_XIV

11
YARN STUDIOS
TALK TO ME DISTRESSED CAP $40 STUDIO FLOWERS PRINT PROPER & DAPPER
NIGHTFIRE CLOTHING T-SHIRT €34.90 THE MAIN MAN £24
WWW.NIGHTFIRE.CO WWW.YARNSTUDIOS.COM PROPERANDDAPPER.COM
NIGHTFIRECLOTHING@GMAIL.COM INSTAGRAM: @YARNSTUDIOS 12 INSTAGRAM: @PROPERANDDAPPER
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705

1. UnderMinded Clothing Co. – A clothing brand for the underestimated. For the creatives who were told they won’t amount to anything. www.undermindedclothingco.com 2. Lovely Lapels offers
an exceptional selection of well-crafted and vibrant lapel accessories for any occasion. A lapel pin can add an exclamation point to your look and make a strong fashion statement. Get
yours at www.lovelylapels.com 3. Dare to impress with these ‘Vipers’ from Oh My Got Cufflinks. Made of 18kt white gold, they feature 28 diamonds and 393 sapphires. Visit www.ohmygotcufflinks.com
4. Curated is a contemporary menswear and elevated street-wear retailer based out of Atlanta, GA. Their retail showroom houses many brands from across the world. Visit www.curatedls.com to find
out more. 5. Sharply has created the highest quality, softest, and best fitting shirts and hoodies that are essential for every man’s wardrobe. SHARPLY is here to help guys look and feel great in what
they wear. They’re your one stop shop for everything men need to own. shopsharply.com 6. Edmunds sells a variety of high quality men’s accessories, including bow ties, pocket squares and lapel pins.
Visit www.edmunds.be to find out more. 7. Trendy slim chakra bracelets for men from Desert Dust Men. Price ranges from $25 to $50 USD depending on stones. Plenty of options, find yours
at www.desertdustmen.com 8. Originating from Ontario, NightFire Clothing represents love and the powerful connection between a couple. At just 19 years old, the brand’s creator Lukas Mihas
takes inspiration from those around him who have helped him grow. The intricate logo on the hat featured is based on a family portrait that he has recreated. Visit www.nightfire.co 9. Magnus by
Crowned harnesses the inner Ruler in those who wear it. Handmade in Chicago with 8mm Reconstituted Turquoise and vintage silver embellishments. Strung on strong elastic cord. Magnus is the perfect
wrist enhancement to heighten one’s presence in any room. Visit www.livecrowned.com 10. Yarn Studios is the brand to watch. Their beautiful floral print pieces are tailored to meet all your needs. All
styles are limited so act fast and get the signature pieces whilst they’re still in stock. Creating fashion for everyone with their affordable price tags, it’s anyone’s guess what this creative group will drop next.
For a sneak preview of their upcoming projects, visit Instagram @yarnstudios. 11. The ultimate in casual shirt wearing; cool, comfortable and crisp. Worboys Shirts is a new brand offering crafted shirts.
Cut to perfection and immaculately finished in 100% cotton poplin, the patterns introduce the colours of the rainbow. Multiple discounts at www.worboysshirts.com 12. Proper and Dapper pocket
squares are designed with the modern gentleman in mind. Handcrafted in USA and made in limited runs to ensure you stand out from the crowd. Visit www.properanddapper.com
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

The Fashion Collection... Continued

14
13
15

SILK, CASHMERE & COTTON S/S KNIT

$195
LEAVENWORTH CLOTHING
WWW.LEAVENWORTHCLOTHING.COM
BLUEBERRY BLOSSOM TIE INSTAGRAM: @LEAVENWORTHCLOTHING
SUNGLASSES TIE CLIP
FROM £9.99 AT MR TIE GUY
WWW.MRTIEGUY.CO.UK
INSTAGRAM: @MRTIEGUY.CO.UK
16
17
18

LIME GREEN AND PINK PAISLEY BOW TIE

£30
WWW.BLUEEYESBOWTIES.COM
DESERT TEE £15 INSTAGRAM: @BLUEEYESBOWTIES1
EVIRE APPAREL
WWW.EVIREAPPAREL.COM
HIGH COLLAR SHIRT $195, JACQUARD INSTAGRAM: @EVIREAPPAREL
CONTE DELLE ROSE DINNER JACKET $1295 RALLY ON SOCKS
AND WHITE NIEVE POCKET SQUARE WITH $13 CAD FROM MNS
BURGUNDY BORDER $145 WWW.MR-NICE-SOCKS.MYSHOPIFY.COM
SEBASTIAN CRUZ COUTURE INSTAGRAM: @MRNICESOCKS1
INSTAGRAM: @THEPOCKETSQUAREINDUSTRY

19

20
LEATHER AND BEAD BRACELETS
£47
WWW.ELIZABETHPARKER.CO.UK

22
CRONUS COLLECTION CROCODILE
CARDHOLDER WITH YELLOW GOLD ACCENTS
£550 MILLION DOLLAR COLLAR
WWW.LAGARTO.CA 21 FROM $14 / £11.50 MY RICHES IS LIFE TEE $22
INSTAGRAM: @LAGARTO_OFFICIAL AVAILABLE AT WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK WWW.ELAENJOYLIFE.COM
INSTAGRAM: @MILLIONDOLLARCOLLAR INSTAGRAM: @ENJOYLIFEAPPAREL

13. Sebastian Cruz Couture – For the Bold. Men’s dinner jackets, high collar dress shirts and handmade crochet pocket squares combined with cutting edge fashion and function make this brand
extremely unique. Highest quality Italian fabrics available in custom made and ready to wear options at www.sebastiancruzcouture.com Perfect for special events, weddings, or any place
you would like to leave a statement! Use code BGQ2017 for 20% off your first purchase (expires 30/06/17). 14. For the daring and dapper. Founded by two brothers who enthuse the art of dressing well,
Mr Tie Guy embodies contemporary British fashion into one simple online hub. 10% off with discount code GQ10 (expires 30/06/17). Visit www.mrtieguy.co.uk 15. Leavenworth Clothing creates shirts
sustainably knit from scratch using silk, cashmere, and cotton. A blend of Parisian chic and their Californian roots. Timeless and versatile, the perfect summer essential making you the best dressed wherever
summer days and nights may lead. Visit www.leavenworthclothing.com 16. Evire is not just a brand, it’s a movement. Featured above is their brand new Desert Tee which features their latest logo that combines
simplistic typography with a sleek iconic look. They are a newly established UK based clothing line who offer high quality, unique apparel. Visit www.evireapparel.com 17. Blue Eyes Bow Ties is a
boutique for quality handmade self-tie and pre-tied bow ties. All their designs are limited edition and made in the UK using pure cotton and silk fabrics in funky and unusual designs.
Visit www.blueeyesbowties.com 18. Put your best foot forward! MNS is a sock company born and raised in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, founded in 2016. MNS is built on the belief that we should give
back to the community. For every pair of socks sold, two pairs are donated to benefit ‘The Mustard Seed’, a local shelter. When in doubt, wear brighter socks – Mr. Nice Socks
www.mr-nice-socks.myshopify.com 19. Lagarto presents the world’s most luxurious cardholders of enduring value, handmade from the finest genuine exotic leathers. LAGARTO features customizable
precious metal accents, a signature stingray design, RFID protection, and a silky-smooth Alcantara interior lining. It is “Luxury You Can Feel”. Visit www.LAGARTO.ca and use GQ17 for free shipping
(expires 30/06/17). 20. Elizabeth Parker. A celebration of style and masculinity, the hues of the tiger eye beads are accentuated by the leather and polished beads. Rugged, yet refined, this stack of
style looks as good with a suit as with a pair of shorts. 5 colour options. Go on treat yourself. Free shipping at www.elizabethparker.co.uk 21. Million Dollar Collar: business casual is the modern look of
a stylish man. The problem is the inevitable sloppy look from the sinking of the front of the shirt. Million Dollar Collar fixes that, permanently. Wash/dry, iron, dry-clean safe. 22. Enjoy Life Apparel is
inspired by life. Using art and designs their apparel showcases a positive message to inspire you to enjoy your most precious gift, Life! They enjoy every aspect of life, and believe that positivity is the key.
Visit www.elaenjoylife.com
 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

24 25
23

PREMIUM SILK TIES, £25 EACH.

THE LITTLE LINK
WWW.THELITTLELINK.COM
INSTAGRAM @THELITTLELINK

THE CONNOISSEUR BELT

£98 (INCL. FREE MONOGRAMMING)
26 SIPAHI & CO
WWW.SIPAHI.CO.UK

27

BLACK TIE ACCESS

HEX TIE HONEY COMB GLADIATOR STACK
WWW.HEXTIE.COM WWW.BLACKTIEACCESS.COM
STATION JACKET £485
INSTAGRAM: @HEXTIE INSTAGRAM: @BLACKTIEACCESS
BLACK DRESS MOHAIR
WWW.LEONBARA.COM
INSTAGRAM: @LEONBARAOFFICIAL

28 30
29 31

HOGAN RED BACKPACK

EDDIE O BOXER “CREATION” POCKET SQUARE £69 KOINO SUPPLY CO
EC15 STYLE £11.95 HAND-DRAWN ARTWORK BY ANNA SIMKIN KOINOSUPPLY@GMAIL.COM
EDDIEO.COM WWW.RCULTURI.COM INSTAGRAM: @_KOINO
INSTAGRAM: @RCULTURI

35
ALEX SILVER lll
FEMME & SIN BOMBER 34
ALEXSILVERlll.COM
INSTAGRAM: @FEMME_AND_SIN

32

33

SCHWEUS TRADING POST

OXFORD TAN LEATHER BOOT $74
LAPEL PINS £15 MIND APPAREL CO. WWW.SCHWEUSTRADINGPOST.COM
SEMPER FORTIS: STINGRAY 4CJ £59
OTHER ACCESSORIES AVAILABLE STRIKEOUT SWEATER $40 & MENTE TEE $28 INSTAGRAM:
WWW.SEMPERFORTIS.CO.UK
WWW.DAPPERANDSUAVE.UK WWW.MINDAPPAREL.CO @SCHWEUSTRADINGPOST
INSTAGRAM: @SEMPERFORTIS_JEWELS
INSTAGRAM: @DAPPERSUAVE INSTAGRAM: @MINDAPPARELCO

23. Meet the first acrylic tie, Hex Tie is the epitome of gentleman elegance meets jet setting risk taker. For today’s tie connoisseur, this hand assembled work of art is sure to make you do a double take.
Sold in over 150 countries and styled by many celebrities. Visit www.hextie.com 24. Popular necktie designs featuring vivid colours and a soft luxurious finish, The Little Link’s wide range of ties are ideal
for work and formal occasions. Use code “GQJ17” for 15% off your first order on www.thelittlelink.com (expires 30/06/17). Delivering style globally since 2011. 25. The ultimate staple for grown-up boys!
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705

Sipahi & Co. Eco-Luxury Leather Goods are made exclusively with oak bark leather from the last remaining traditional British tannery of its kind. Epitome of sustainable luxury and unparalleled
craftsmanship with decidedly contemporary aesthetic, these belts age gracefully – like fine Bordeaux! Quote GQ20 for 20% off and free monogramming (expires 30/06/17). Visit www.sipahi.co.uk
26. Contemporary menswear label Léon Bara combines resilience and utility with refined and progressive aesthetics. At the label’s core lies a tension between the fragile and resilient, natural and
synthetic, conventional and progressive. Working closely with specialist manufacturers, the brand creates clothing defined by versatility, comfort and uncompromising performance.
Visit www.leonbara.com 27. Black Tie Access creates exclusive and stylish handmade jewellery for men. For on-trend unique wrist gear, neck chains and cufflinks, visit www.blacktieaccess.com Custom
designs available upon request. 28. Alex Silver III apparel is available at AlexSilverlll.com Based in New York and Paris. 29. Eddie O Boxer. Custom fit, soft sexy classic boxers. Elegantly designed with
high quality stretch cotton which provides shape retention, with the single ‘Eddie O’ elastic waistband. Available in yellow, blue, green, red, white and black. Machine washable, 95% cotton – 5% Spandex.
Visit eddieo.com 30. Menswear accessories like never before – R. Culturi fuses art with classic style to create beautiful, timeless pocket squares and neckties. Featuring designs by international artists,
hand-chosen fabrics, and fine Italian craftsmanship, the R. Culturi collection promises to add a story to any outfit. Visit www.rculturi.com 31. Koino Supply Co. strives to be the finest bag maker. Mixing
high craftsmanship with intricate design, Koino’s line of bags and t-shirts will complete your wardrobe this season. Visit Instagram @_koino 32. Semper Fortis specialises in unique, handcrafted
bracelets for those with a distinct style. Designed and produced in London by English artist, Matthew Johnson, Semper Fortis has risen to esteem with its bold creativity and strong ethics. Enter ‘GQ15’ for
15% off at www.semperfortis.co.uk (expires 30/06/17). 33. Based in Dorking, Surrey DapperandSuave handcraft their accessories range of lapel pins, bowties, cufflinks and pocket squares from vintage
and high street finds. Items can be customised or created from your own fabrics and ideas. Visit www.dapperandsuave.uk 34. Mind Apparel Co offers the most stylish, uniquely-designed tees for you
this season. Designed in San Diego California. Available in a variety of colours, designs and sizes, from Small to XXXX-Large. View the full collection at www.mindapparel.co and use code GQ15 for 15% off
(expires 31/08/17). 35. Schweus Trading Post is the go-to for your fashion needs. Offering a variety of new and exciting products that bring tradition and style to modern men, Schweus offers new
brands, ideas and items monthly so check out what’s new at www.schweustradingpost.com
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

The Fashion Collection... Continued

37
36
AUTOBAHNLIFE CZ DIAMOND EYED
LIZARD WRISTGAME
£265
WWW.AUTOBAHNLIFE.COM

38

VINTAGE CANVAS DUFFLE BAG

£40
39
WWW.BUGSVINTAGE.BIGCARTEL.COM
INSTAGRAM: @BUGSVINTAGE
OCEAN ‘SIGNATURE’ SKULL
BRACELET
BONSAI WAVES BOW TIE $110 £22
100% VINTAGE JAPANESE FINE SILK BAXTER-BAXTER.COM
LTKBRAND.COM INSTAGRAM: @BAXTERANDBAXTER_

40
41

ROBERT OWEN UNDERSHIRTS

CREW OR V NECK £29
SWEAT ABSORBING £32
42 WWW.UNDERSHIRTS.CO.UK
THE ROOSEVELT WALLET $125 GANDHUM
NO NAME LEATHERS HOUNDSTOOTH POCKET SQUARE THE STREET SWEATER $53
WWW.NONAMELEATHERS.COM £65.00 PARIS CLUB 43
INSTAGRAM: @NONAMELEATHERS WWW.GANDHUM.COM WWW.PARISCLUB.CO

36. Autobahnlife creates handmade quality pieces. Pictured is their bold blue lizard leather bracelet featuring white cz diamond eyes. A variety of colours and styles are available online. All bracelets
come in a luxury box set. Visit www.autobahnlife.com 37. Bugs Vintage is a British and timeless men’s clothing brand. They are based in Hampshire and sell luxury menswear and accessories. Visit
www.bugsvintage.bigcartel.com 38. License To Kill: LTK Brand brings Japanese-made treasures to a western audience with a penchant for luxury. Drawing on the exquisite kimono fabrics and culture
of its founder’s Japanese heritage, the brand brings you an exquisitely made line of classic men’s accessories. Visit ltkbrand.com 39. Baxter&Baxter offer handcrafted accessories for the modern
gentleman with an unrivalled dedication to quality and artisanal excellence. Shop handmade neckties, pocket squares, scarves, lapel pins & bracelets. Use promo code ‘GQ2017’ for 10% off your order
(expires 30/06/17). Shop online at baxter-baxter.com 40. No Name Leathers in a New York based leather craft company focused on making handmade leather goods that last a lifetime. Boasting top
quality raw materials, stylish minimalism, and a lifetime warranty, these goods will step up your accessory game. Visit www.nonameleathers.com 41. Gandhum. Silk pocket square designed in London
and made in Italy – 33cm x 33cm. A contemporary print with distinctive border to add that extra flair to your look. Pair this with our London based Made to Measure tailoring service, experience Made to
Measure the way it was intended. Visit www.gandhum.com 42. Inspired by international streetwear trends, Paris Club adds graphic and typographic boldness as well as injecting more parody and
eclectic energy into the mix, all the while being completely functional, comfortable and a great fit for the casual comfort street style guy. www.parisclub.co 43. British niche underwear designer
Robert Owen takes a fresh approach introducing base layers you can wear in the office. Luxurious bamboo fabric undershirts insulate, yet breathe, and catch your sweat before it catches your shirt.
www.undershirts.co.uk hello@RobertOwen.Co

The Gadget Guide...

1 2 1. Cub & Co. is an American brand that designs and handcrafts leather accessories and lifestyle
goods for the modern photographers’ daily life. All of their products are expertly crafted in Brooklyn
with the utmost attention to both form and function. Visit www.cubandcompany.com or their
Instagram @cubandco
2. Witti Design. BEDDI Style is the alarm clock with a changeable faceplate to match your bedroom
style. Wake up to your favorite music from Spotify or Apple Music. Sleep well every night with
soothing white noise while your phone is charging. (*Faceplates sold separately).
Visit, www.wittidesign.com
3. Dagadam is a smartwatch that perfectly entwines the ultimate technology with a comfortable
and ergonomic design. Choose from a selection of leather or
rubber bands and make the watch a reflection of your lifestyle,
whether it is sporty or elegant, or both. Designed to fit an active
3
lifestyle, Dagadam is your own personal trainer with accurate
tracking features that will enhance your sport activities.
Visit www.dagadam.com for more information and to purchase.
4. MIKOL brings a fresh and distinct feature into the tech
accessories world through the use of natural marble stone. Since
no two pieces will ever be exactly the same, it creates a unique
self-identity to match its owner. Get your very own
marble MacBook cover only
at www.MikolMarmi.com
4
 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

5. Loki. The Smart WiFi Meat Thermometer helps you monitor,

track and record your cooking. The Loki mobile app suggests
recipes, cook time and temperatures for your meat. The 6
mobile app sends notifications and monitors up to four 5
probes at once. To find out more
visit www.lokiproducts.com
6. Buckle & Seam’s functional and elegant designs are
made of premium, vegetable tanned cow leather. The natural
patina combined with the option of creative inside print
customisation and initial engraving will make each bag
unique. Explore their collection
at www.buckleandseam.com 7
7. Fashion tech accessories by PlusUs – LifeCard
portable power is designed to fit into any wallet 8
(only 3 credit cards thick) providing instant power
on the go via built in cable. It features an attractive
brushed stainless steel case. LifeCard keeps you
powered into the night whilst Lifestar designer cable
keeps you charged in style, finished in matte black
stainless mesh with portable length of 240mm. Available
at Selfridges, Harrods or at www.plusus.com.au
8. Calendar Watch by What? Watch The smart
watch is dead! The (r)evolution begins here.
Generous use of high grade stainless steel,
luxury Italian leather and hardened mineral
glass, make this the perfect daily companion.
Stay on top of your day with Calendar Watch.
Available in 3 colours from £265. Learn more
at www.whatwatch.com/calendar-watch
9. Ungrip is the best way to hold your phone. It’s a simple solution 9 10
to holding large, thin and slippery smartphones. Designed to be
functional, strong, comfortable and beautiful. Comes in 20 colours
and designs. Grip your phone in dozens of new ways
by ungripping it! Visit www.UngripYourPhone.com
10. AmpliFi is a beautifully designed mesh Wi-Fi 13
solution to eliminate the general shortcomings
of today’s routers in the modern connected
home. The product was designed to serve 11
multiple connected devices, high-quality video
streaming and distribute fast Internet 12
throughout the home. Visit www.amplifi.com
for more information and to purchase.
11. Elago’s W3 Stand for Apple Watch can turn your
modern device into a classic Macintosh whilst
charging and protecting it. It is suitable for any band
and case combination and made of soft silicone to prevent scratching.
Visit www.elagostore.eu to purchase.
12. YI M1 Mirrorless Digital Camera is a mirrorless,
interchangeable lens camera that features Bluetooth + Wi-Fi
connectivity and a simple app interface. Get ready to capture
perfect moments with superb 20 megapixel images and
stunning 4K video at 30 frames per second. YI M1 offers two lens 14
options – 12-40mm F3.5-5.6 and 42.5mm F1.8. Over 50+ lenses
are compatible with MFT lens mount. With a 3-inch LCD touch
screen and comprehensive controls, YI M1 offers an
intuitive experience. Shoot Like a Pro with its
Master Guide – just download the templates on
your phone and start shooting. Smile, Shoot, Share:
Visit www.yitechnology.com 15

13. Both Barrels’ luxury luggage collection is designed and handmade in the UK.
The Commuter Pack (£290) includes their Twelve backpack and your choice of a 13
or 15 inch laptop sleeve, crafted from weather resistant Yorkshire wool and ballistic
nylon. Visit www.thisisbothbarrels.com or email hello@thisisbothbarrels.com
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705

for more information.

14. Vitastiq 2, your daily vitamin tracker, indicates the trend of 26 vitamins and
minerals in your body. The gadget works with an easy-to-use app and fits into any
lifestyle. Yours for only £112, at www.vitastiq.com
15. A Popsocket is a little piece of magic for your phone. PopSockets are mobile
accessories that expand to play a broad range of roles including grips, stands,
headset-management systems and more. Available at PopSocket.com
16. The story of ‘The Branch’ is three years long in the making and began with a very
simple idea. Branch Innovation wanted to create a clean and simple device that
held a tablet – that meant they could watch hands (and stress!) free. Using an
incredibly talented team of designers and manufacturers, the final product contains
over 70 uniquely designed and specially crafted parts to create this stylish accessory.
Visit www.branchinnovation.com for more information and to purchase. 16
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

Fix Up Look Sharp...

3
1
2 1. Swagger & Jacks Premium Beard Oil is a rich blend easily absorbed into the
whiskers to hydrate and alleviate the itching sensation of the bristles. Fragranced
with their Signature Premium Cologne to keep your beard smelling fresh and
looking awesome. RRP £18.95 for 30ml. The Swagger & Jacks Gentlemen’s
Grooming Range is available online at
www.swaggerandjacks.com with worldwide shipping and from
selected department stores.
2. The Bolin Webb R1 Jack Razor with its striking projection of the
4
iconic flag of Great Britain has been combined with the award-
winning silicone Razor Case to create a luxurious gift set. Made in
the UK and compatible with Gillette’s Mach3 blade. Each set is
presented in a beautiful gift box. Available online for £90 at www.bolinwebb.com or
5 6
email sales@bolinwebb.com
3. Westward Men Grooming Co. is a producer of top shelf beard grooming
products. They use only the highest quality, all natural ingredients. Veteran owned
and made in the USA. Get 10% off your order at www.westwardmen.com with
code WMGQ10 (expires 30/06/17).
4. Native Products are crafted by British barbers to create a unique styling
range that covers every style within the modern barbershop. Native combines
the expertise of barbers with the best ingredients to create a range that has its
8 heart in heritage visit, www.nativeproducts.co.uk @nativeproductsuk
5. Caveman Cleaner 3-in-1 by Bad Lab – The Game Changer. Indulge in your
inner beast and find out why feeling bad is just so good. Bad Lab features a full
range of personal care products created for the unconventional man. Headlined
7 by the all-purpose Caveman Cleaner, Bad Lab is guaranteed to have you walking
9 the walk with little talk required. Gentlemen, welcome to the jungle. For more
information, go to www.badlabco.com
6. Products from up and coming Nõberu of Sweden will have a place of
honour in every great man’s bathroom within a couple of years. Using only
cold-pressed oils and real perfume-oil their product is nothing but
exceptional. To find out more visit www.noberu.se
7. Drogo is a London based luxury grooming brand specialising in the
highest quality beard care available. Specially formulated using 100% natural
ingredients, Drogo Beard Oil aims to provide the best care for your beard and
skin. Their blend cleanses and moisturises with key vitamins helping to
promote a clean, frizz free beard, not to mention super glowing skin.
Visit them at www.drogo-uk.com
8. Pevonia’s Collagen Boost Face Balm is formulated with anti-ageing
ingredients to moisturise vital skin components and firm the appearance of
the skin. The Collagen Boost Eye Contour incorporates a high-tech
time-release sphérulites delivery system loaded with Hyaluronic Acid,
11 providing long lasting hydration. Visit www.Pevonia.co.uk
9. Coldlabel Tonsorial Apothecary harnesses the wisdom of raw
nature, and pairs it with modern artisanal craftsmanship to create a
10
line that is both safe and effective. Premium ingredients are expertly
crafted into classic grooming formulas. Visit www.coldlabel.co for
12
more information or call +1 951 233 7643.
10. Introducing HOTTDADDY® with their standout range of parfums,
shaving kits and body sprays. Featuring bold scents with excellent
longevity, these fragrances are made to suit every man. Whether you
need an all-rounder with No. 1 or an all-nighter for a dinner date with
No. 5 – this collection of five transcendent fragrances can also be
blended to create something personally suited to you. HOTTDADDY®
also carry a muscle rub, beard oil and body wash all available to buy
at www.HOTTDADDY.com or to find out more email info@hottdaddy.com
11. SEASCAPE Beard Oil by Lumbersoul is a new standard in beard care products. Designed in
a slick looking matte black bottle and made from 100% organic ingredients, it keeps your beard
and skin hydrated and moisturised with a fresh hint of sea salt aroma. RRP £12.95. Get yours
at www.lumbersoul.com
12. The Gentlemen’s Face Wash by Beau Brummell for Men is crafted in New York. Formulated
to cleanse the skin without stripping away natural oils, this charcoal
powered face wash is sure to become the star of your grooming
13 regimen. Visit www.beaubrummellformen.com
for more information.
13. It’s important to take care of a beard properly.
Lovely Beards’ beard oil and beard balm do exactly that by
using 100% natural and organic ingredients to help moisturize the
hair. The best beard oil and balm products for your lovely beard. To
find out more visit lovelybeards.com
 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

14. Brass Knuckle Brand is a Premium Hair and Beard care company formed by two Brighton based barbers who
have a passion for formulating products that will help any man achieve his individual style. Their signature Beard
Balms are enriched with Argan oil and made from 100% natural ingredients right here in the UK. These are now
available in three amazing scent variations designed to keep your awesome facial mane tamed whilst smelling great.
A full range of products are available at www.brassknucklebrand.com and you can follow them on
Instagram @brassknucklebrand 14
15
15. The Ockham Razor is a beautiful minimalist razor. No gimmicks – just a solid metal
handle that takes regular Mach3 cartridges. The razor is built to
last, easy to keep clean and a pleasure to use.
Handles made in England; blades available
everywhere. To find out more
visit www.ockhamrazorcompany.com/GQ 16
16. Since 1854, Taylor of Old Bond Street have
produced and sold the finest in Luxury Men’s
Grooming Products and accessories, creating a brand
which is synonymous with British style and quality. Visit
their store at 74 Jermyn Street, St James’s, London, 17
SW1Y 6NP, call 020 7930 5544 or visit them
at www.tayloroldbondst.co.uk
17. STENZ – Beard Care is based in the middle of the 18
Bavarian forest. Handmade Beard Oil and Beard Balm with
100% natural ingredients. Flo Ehrnböck the founder of
STENZ – Beard Care delivers fantastic beard care products
from the heart of Bavaria to impress even the most savvy
beard connoisseurs the world over.
Visit www.stenz-beard.com
18. At Chaps Male Grooming Canterbury they pride themselves on
giving customers the VIP ‘Chaps Experience’. They have worked hard to
19
ensure the knowledgeable team preserve traditions as well as staying
current with progressing products and technologies. Their concept is
unique, and they are more than just a barbershop... from spa treatments
to sunbeds, a steam room and stylists, they go that extra mile to make
you look and feel good. Visit www.chaps-grooming.co.uk 22
21
20
19. Combs were boring until we found these gems. Bisson Combs
produces hair type specific luxury combs that will make you want to
show them off as if you’ve won a prize. Readers get 20% OFF with code
“GQ17” (expires 02/08/17) on www.bissoncombs.com or email
info@bissoncombs.com for more information.
20. Your toothbrush, reimagined. Boie USA is nothing like your
ordinary toothbrush. Ergonomically designed with thermoplastic
elastomer for unparalleled durability and infused with silver for
antimicrobial protection, Boie is the evolution of the toothbrush. Its
interchangeable heads reduce environmental impacts and extend the
product’s life. Visit them at Boieusa.com
21. Bearly Bearded are a new company offering high quality beard
care products with fresh contemporary fragrances. Check out their stylish
beard oils and balm at www.bearlybearded.com or find them
on amazon.co.uk and on Amazon sites throughout Europe.
22. Macho Box premium grooming and essentials box delivers to your 23
door every month. In Macho Box you will find a hair product for your
flowing mane, a skin/shave product to keep your Macho glow, a 24
nutrition product to keep you clanging and banging at the gym, and
finally a fragrance to keep you smelling Macho and not just smelling!
Macho Box, for the everyday Macho Man.
Visit www.machoboxes.com
23. Superstition Alchemy brings out the essence of the deep
American West. Crafted by desert-dwellers with infusions of the
tough, hardy plants that evolved in the dry, challenging environments
of the Sonoran Desert, SA’s body care line reminds us that where
there’s a well…there’s a way. Discover their full range
at www.superstitionalchemy.com
24. Look your sharpest with the NEW Dorco Classic razor,
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705

delivering a comfortable and close shave due to an incredible 7

precision-aligned blades. With an ergonomic handle in a
vintage design, this is Dorco’s most technologically advanced
razor after over 60 years’ of expertise in shaving technology.
Enjoy a 10% discount on all products by entering ‘GQDO17’
at www.razorsbydorco.co.uk (expires 30/06/17).
25. Founded in Barcelona, The Macho Beard
Company products have been crafted over years of
study and research, using traditional methods to
create the one-of-a-kind Macho Formula. The
bearded founders behind the brand set out to
create beard oils, balms and moustache
waxes capable of moisturising beards
to the limit. To find out more
visit www.machobeardcompany.com
25
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

Fix Up Look Sharp... Continued

26 27 26. The darkest way to whiter teeth. Bogobrush is your
luxury toothbrush that feels as good as it looks. The
handle is recyclable or biodegradable, and never
28
needs a landfill. Order once or subscribe online.
Visit bogobrush.com for more information.
Questions? contact@bogobrush.com
27. Exquisite quality Ibiza Blend Beard Oil. Completely
organic and crafted by hand on the magical island of
Ibiza. It’s unique aroma is taken from influences of natural
scents in abundance on Ibiza. Helping you maintain a
healthy and manageable beard.
Visit www.ibizablendbeardoil.com
28. Mountain Mist – Organic Beard Oil by Swagger
Beards. A handcrafted beard oil with the amazing smell
30 of Mt. Kosciouzko after a rainfall in Spring. This truly
29
amazing beard oil will leave your skin and beard looking
healthier and feeling softer than it’s ever been. Free
international shipping on all orders
at swaggerbeards.com.au
29. White Glo Diamond Series Whitening System. Their
31 strongest system yet, formulated by dentists to ensure fast
and effective results. Diamond Series Whitening System five
minute application works to lift stains and remove yellowing
on the surface of teeth enamel safely and without abrasion.
Also comes with bonus White Glo Professional Choice
Toothpaste for daily maintenance and anti-cavity protection.
With such an easy way to whiten your teeth, there is no
excuse not to get the Glo! More info at www.whiteglo.com
30. Vitabiotics. .With SPF 15 to minimise the risk of damage
caused by UV rays, Wellman Anti-ageing moisturiser helps reduce the signs of premature ageing and
provides daily protection to help combat the harsh effects of shaving, reducing dryness and abrasion. A
unique blend of antioxidant vitamins A, C and E, which help to nourish fatigued, dull skin with moisture,
makes Wellman Anti-ageing moisturiser ideal for increased vitality and a natural glow.
Visit www.vitabiotics.com
31. In everything they do, Big City Beards believe in challenging the status quo and in thinking
differently. They are raising the bar with the healthiest alternative to men’s grooming and skincare yet,
with 100% organic certified ingredients. These remedies have been used by our forefathers stretched
across the globe – and they work! Make the executive decision, be the change and join the movement
at www.bigcitybeards.com

Rock Her World... With Love!

2
1. Latham & Neve – known for their stunning contemporary hand-made British jewellery
since 1997. Featured is the unique Ripple Bangle in beaten silver and 18ct gold, £225.
Ballroom bangles, everyday earrings, ravishing rings and much much more...
Buy online/stockists/brochure, visit www.lathamandneve.co.uk or
1 3
call 01580 753399.
2. Simon Wright offers a complete bespoke service, personally making your jewellery
in platinum and gold using the finest diamonds and gemstones. An appointment
involves viewing diamonds, a short tour of the workshop, and a sit down design session all
in their Clerkenwell studio workshop. By appointment only. Call 020 7490 0665 or
4
visit sw-jewellery.com
5 3. Purple Luxe: Inspired by remarkable women who express their personalities. The simplicity
and the beauty of the cufflinks will spark a “je-ne-sais-quoi” moment. Purple Luxe have
designed the Wonder pair ($599.99 CAD) to bejewel your daring personalities. Be
bold, be unique, be iconic…wear cufflinks. Visit www.purpleluxe.com
4. Buffalo & Co use traditional leatherworking techniques to handcraft quality
accessories such as this black lambskin on-the-go crossbody bag. It is made from
genuine lambskin and vegetable-tanned leather with brass hardware. Visit
www.buffaloandco.com for more everyday rugged luxury.
5. bil & sid – Limited Edition Fedoras. A sleek new take on the classic Panama hat. Their collection of fedoras are
6
handcrafted in Ecuador and come in four vibrant colours. The perfect statement piece for summer!
Visit www.bilandsid.com
6. Luna Oil Organics is an exciting , new Canadian company specializing in luxuriously handcrafted face and
7 body oils that are made with 100% organic ingredients. What makes this brand unique? Their botanical tinctures
are specifically tailored to your skin type. Featured is the Pitta face oil for women ($65 CAD). View the full
collection at www.lunaoilorganics.com
7. Treat her to the newly launched Pastille bracelet by Merci Maman (£39). This feminine piece will be engraved
by hand in London with the name or message of your choice. The team at Merci Maman will handcraft your
bracelet within only a days and giftwrap it in their signature box. Available in sterling silver or gold plated.
Visit mercimamanboutique.com
 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

Inside Out... Summer Refresh!

1
3

7
8

11
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1. Millbrook Beds. It’s your best kept secret in the bedroom. Traditionally handmade in the UK for almost 70 years, Millbrook Beds are made to order using only the finest, locally-sourced, natural
materials to offer the ultimate in sleep luxury. Visit www.millbrook-beds.co.uk email enquiry@millbrookbeds.co.uk or call 0845 373 1111. 2. The F I V E / S I X limited run Vintage moto lamp. The
F I V E / S I X are focused on showcasing and producing inspiring stories told by the content they create and the products they choose to offer. Email info@thefive-six.com or visit www.thefive-six.com for
more details… and share their passion by following their Instagram @thefivesix 3. TreatMenSelf offers a top-drawer selection of stylish, cool and premium homeware and lifestyle products inspired by
their passion for design. This tasteful wine storage made from chromed brass is another great example combining outstanding practicality, technicality and exclusivity. Visit www.treatmenself.com or
Instagram @treatmenself for more inspiration. 4. CameraSelfies® by Flynn Newton alias German photographer J. F. Novotny are intimate “self-portraits” giving personality to the devices behind the
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705

selfie phenomenon: staged vintage cameras, immortalizing themselves on background of contemporary wallpapers. “CameraSelfie No. 7: Polaroid 1000” (pictured) is available as limited, signed and
numbered edition, size 100cm x 100cm on high quality baryt paper at Saatchi Art. Visit www.cameraselfies.com or contact jfn@jfnovotny.com for more information. 5. Smithers of Stamford, Caruso
Music Hi Fi Sound System. A retro cabinet equipped with the latest generation Hi-Fi sound. The digital music player stands on the edge of irony, a little futuristic, a little retro, managing to combine hi-tech
with high-end design for a multi-sensory decoration. Made In Italy by Paolo Cappello. Visit smithersofstamford.com or call 01780 435060. 6. J&S Reclaimed Wood Custom Furniture of Vancouver,
Canada rescues antique lumber from heritage building demolitions and derelict old barns to build quality handmade furniture. The coffee table pictured is made from 101 year old oak timbers with a
hand-tooled brass base. For more information visit www.jsreclaimedwood.com or email contact@jsreclaimedwood.com 7. L Dawning Scott creates captivating abstract paintings that convey emotion
in an original style that is truly exceptional. Her work is widely collected and can be found in permanent corporate and private collections worldwide. To view additional works by L Dawning Scott visit
www.LDawningScott.com or www.LDawningScott.etsy.com Originals and prints available. 8. Pullman Editions designs striking original limited-edition posters that capture the enduring appeal of Art
Deco. Their posters feature winter sports, glamorous resorts around the world, and historic automobiles. Over 100 designs available at £395 each. Call 020 7730 0547 or view and buy online at
www.pullmaneditions.com 9. Aequill means to balance. Their first candle range titled Mum’s Aromatherapy Shop; is made with pure essential oil blends and presented in a beautiful mouth blown
recycled glass container. Shop online at AEQUILL.com or email hello@aequill.com for more information. 10. Jessie Pitt is an Australian landscape artist based in Tirol, Austria. She is inspired by
mountains, clouds, light and shadow. Jessie’s artworks are a mixture of drawing and painting using charcoal, graphite, drawing ink, or acrylic on canvas or paper. Pictured is “Timeless”, 2017, 86 x 134.5 cm.
Visit www.jessiepitt.com or email jessiepittart@gmail.com to find out more. 11. The Purely Chair and Desk by JKMOD is an innovative, eco-friendly and space saving solution for your home or office (or
anywhere in between). The Purely collection offers furniture that can be stored easily under a bed or in the closet. However, the beauty and sophistication of the design will have you wanting to show it
off. The direct print artwork and high gloss finish makes it a stylish and modern decorative piece that will fit into any space. Visit www.JKMOD.com for more information and to purchase.
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

The Summer Spirit... Let The Good Times Roll!

1 2 3 1. Whether your Scotch knowledge is a little rocky, or you’re looking to top-up your expertise,
The W Club has a monthly whisky subscription for you. Sign up from just £6.99/month
and join the fantastic whisky club for just £20/year while you’re at it. Pictured product:
The W Club Explorer Safari, £24.99 per month. Shop at www.thewclub.co.uk
2. Created in one of the UK’s smallest micro-distilleries in Lichfield – Staffordshire,
Fifth Spire Gin is batch distilled in two parts; one a classic London Dry recipe, and the
other containing only the zest of fresh citrus fruits, £42 at www.fifthspire.co.uk
3. Bénazet Vodka combines timeless elegance with a completed soft taste. Clear and
fresh, with an elegant aroma and a long pleasant finish, Bénazet Vodka offers a mild
and unique taste of the golden winter wheat. Gently filtered through rock layers, the
purest Black Forest spring water gives Bénazet Vodka its supple touch.
Visit www.benazet.de
4. Produced by the independent, Scottish owned Isle of Arran Distillery, the Arran 18
year-old Single Malt is smooth and richly rewarding with luscious notes of dark chocolate
orange, tropical fruits and a layer of sweet spice. Exclusive, small batch produced single malt
– the perfect gift for the whisky aficionado. RRP £74.99, available from specialist whisky
5 7 shops or from www.arranwhisky.com or call 01770 830264.
4 6
5. Tequila Fortaleza Blanco is 100% estate grown Blue Agave Tequila, made using
centuries old, traditional methods. With notes of cooked agave, citrus, vanilla, basil, olive,
and lime on the palate, the finish is long and complex, yet easy to drink. Contact
info@indiebrands.co.uk or visit www.tequilafortaleza.com
6. The new trendsetters in the spirit business! Icelandic Mountain Vodka just received
the Gold Medal from tastings.com Now they have brought the Icelandic Mountain Gin to
the market! Check out www.mountainvodka.is for more information.
7. Not content to create another standard London Dry, Gentle Gin’s distiller and
horticulturalist blended together his love of tea with his love of fine spirits, creating
Gentle Gin Dry Tea. The classic dry botanical base is enlivened with the crisp flavour of
borage flowers and a blend of organic, handpicked Earl Grey and Pai Mu Dan teas, resulting
in a delicate and complex blend that can be sipped over ice or mixed in more classic gin
cocktails. Visit www.gentlegin.de
8
8. Duncan Taylor Scotch Whisky has a stunning smoky blend that is big on flavour. The Big
9 Smoke was created by blending malt whiskies from some of Islay’s iconic distilleries including
Caol Ila, Bruichladdich and Ardbeg. Bottled at 46% ABV it is a gentle introduction to the
Islay style. £32 at www.thespiritsembassy.com
9. Rambla 41 is a Mediterranean aromatic gin of natural spirits derived from wine
lees and hand-selected thriving juniper, rosemary, thyme, laurel, fennel, angelica,
11 almonds and orange peel. This utterly gorgeous gin from the south coast of
10 Barcelona is very smooth and elegant with a delicious fruitiness to enjoy on
a sunny afternoon. Available for Angels only at www.nakedwines.com
10. The London Cabaret Club presents The Best Of British Pop, a celebration of
British pop throughout the decades. Taking place in their new and permanent
residence, the iconic Bloomsbury Ballroom, they promise to deliver a thrilling
12 cabaret show and gourmet dining experience. Fridays 2017. Visit
www.thelondoncabaretclub.com or call 020 7242 0002.
11. City of London Dry Gin is distilled in the heart of the City by the City of London
Distillery. This is a connoisseur’s London Dry Gin, 41.3%/vol and flavoured with a
fine balance of juniper berries, angelica, liquorice and coriander seeds – with fresh
orange, lemon and pink grapefruit added also to give the gin its distinctive zesty notes. Only £35
at www.cityoflondondistillery.com
12. The cultural landscape of Lake Constance, along with its diversity and originality, homes one of the finest
artisanal South German Gins: BmyGin. The locally grown Botanicals are each meticulously chosen for their
flavours to create the perfect taste. Enjoy it pure on ice or a with a citrus tonic in order to experience the full
characteristics. Visit www.b-my-gin.de

Top Of Your Game... Get Going!

1 2
1. Tushi Pal is a 24/7 optical heart rate and fitness tracker that provides jobs to Indigenous Communities. The first socially
responsible tracker that integrates tradition and design. Every Tushi Pal comes with a one-of-a-kind woven case that is
handcrafted by skilled Mayan artisans. To find out more visit www.tushi.rocks
2. The MagLOCK Bike Pedals are an easy-to-use alternative to mechanically clipping bike pedals. They utilize strong
rare-earth magnets to clip the rider’s shoes to the pedals and are easily released. No more fear of being stuck in your
pedals! Riders use them for commuting and intense trail riding. Visit www.maglockbikepedal.com
3 3. Finn – the universal smartphone mount for every bike. Made in Austria. With Finn you can safely and easily mount your
smartphone to any handlebar. Simple design, high quality silicone material and fits in every pocket. Get it now
at www.getfinn.com
4
4. Slick Revolution have a game changer launching on Kickstarter.com – the
Flex-Eboard has interchangeable decks, a flexible battery case and
off-road wheels. A one of a kind electric skateboard with 22mph top speed,
13 mile range and wireless handheld control. Get 10% off at
www.slickrevolution.co.uk with code GQ10 (until stocks last).
 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

5. Paipo Glide make handcrafted, unique and stylish wood surfboards and 5
skateboards, blending ancient Hawaiian designs with a Cornish twist. 6
These boards are equally at home in the gallery or on the wave. Order at
www.paipoglide.com or email andy@paipoglide.com
6. If Bruce Wayne decided to be a bike courier, this is what he’d ride. The Canyon
Aeroad CF SLX is the bike of choice for many top professional cyclists and has
multiple Tour de France stage wins under its belt. Available from £3,249 at Canyon.com
7. Absolute Fitness Apparel was founded in South West London in 2016. Their aim is to help
people achieve their full potential, not just within the world of fitness but throughout all areas of life.
Their motto ‘Improve | Achieve’ stands for the way in which one can
accomplish any personal goal by persevering. Visit 7
www.absolutefitnessapparel.co.uk for more information.
8. Take your weekend bike rides to the next level by looking fresh in a
uniquely-designed kit by Hill Killer in Baltimore, Maryland, USA. Hill 8 9
Killer is an independent group of designers, athletes and motivators
who collaborate to make high-quality cycling gear. Stand out from the
crowd in “Ice and Fire” kit featured here or one of their other popular
lines. Save 10% on your first order at www.hillkiller.com with coupon
code GQJUNE10 (expires 31/05/17).
9. Psykoboard is an innovative Italian Mechatronics
start-up, building cutting-edge electric skateboards.
10
Their 100% carbon fibre boards are the pinnacle of
Italian style and design. These smart boards are perfect
11 12
for sustainable mobility as well as recreational usage.
To find out more email info@psykoboard.com
or visit www.psykoboard.com
10. Worthy Skateboards are handcrafted recycled
wooden skateboards that emulate the look and feel of
skateboarding when it first began. Influenced by the
vintage surf and skate culture of the 1960’s, all
Worthy’s unique wooden boards are recycled,
salvaged or sustainably sourced. 14
Visit www.worthyskateboards.com
11. Foot Revolution is a monthly cycling sock
subscription that provides high quality eye catching
socks delivered right to your door, Every. Single. Month.
With partners like Handlebar Mustache, Base Cartel, and
SOS you can be damn sure they will look good and feel 13
great. Only $15 USD. Visit www.thefootrevolution.com or email sales@thefootrevolution.com
12. Jetson Boosted Surfboards. Jetson is a surfboard that includes a miniature jet which gives you a
boost at the most important moments: reaching the peak and taking off. A new experience to have more
waves and be stocked. Visit www.jetson.es email contact@jetson.es or call +34 722 444 564 for
more information.
13. Artful Kicks is run solely by Simon Fellows, a footwear artist based in the UK who specialises in
creating hand-painted, bespoke art for your feet! He has produced over 400 pairs for casual and
performance wear, including an array of cycling shoes for amateur riders and the elite. Make sure you
visit www.artfulkicks.com or contact Simon at artful.kicks@outlook.com for more information.
To see more designs, follow @artfulkicks on Instagram. 15

14. A new wave of activewear for men has landed. With 15 + epic brands hailing from all over the world,
join the #Athleticlife and you’ll be working out or straight chilling in some of the most coveted fitness,
17
training and athletic labels around. The Active Man is dedicated to discovering the ultimate hi-tech 16
performance pieces without compromising style. Shop theactiveman.com
15. Aluminati Skateboards offers the world’s most innovative cruiser boards built from recycled
aircraft aluminum and made in the USA. The Timber is sure to turn heads. Available at Skate Hut.
Visit www.skatehut.co.uk for more information.
16. Douchebags new Aviator – an extraordinary carry-on – fits first class. This jetsetter likes to stand
out in the crowd. Its unique Unicast Polycarbonate shell is topped off with a smooth, vacuum-finished
TPU-leather coating, allowing the bag to weigh just 2.5kg. Visit www.douchebags.com for more
information or their Instagram @douchebags
TO ADVERTISE CALL 020 7499 9080 X3705

17. Founded in Treviso, Italy, Mustache Cycles design and build exclusive hand-built custom bicycles.
Inspired by old traditional models their classic bicycles are the perfect combination of beauty and
functionality. The Old Race model features: Columbus steel tubes, hand-made leather bag and
olive wooden features, 28 x 1½ wheels. Visit www.mustachecycles.com for more 18 19
information email info@mustachecycles.com
18. Strike. This innovative smart baseball can detect and display the speed, spin rate and
pitching trajectory of each throw of the ball. The Strike app allows you to record your pitch
details on your mobile device. Strike will instantly help you to become a better pitcher.
Discover more at www.jingletek.com
19. Scubajet is the most versatile water jet propulsion system and world’s smallest dive
scooter. The high-performance jet engine brings popular water sports activities to the next
level. It’s easy to fix on SUP boards, kayaks, canoes, dinghies or diving equipment with
different adapters. 6,6 lbs of weight produce 44 lbs of thrust. Visit www.scubajet.com
 BE SPELLBOUND

A superyacht is designed to shimmer with presence. Viewed from afar, it is charged

with magnetic appeal. Onboard, it assures splendid sanctuary.

For your introduction to superyacht living, contact Cecil Wright.

cecilwright.com
condenastjohansens.com
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 Computer generated image
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 Luxurious Furnival House comprises 15 magnificent apartments
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Travel times taken from National Rail and Google Maps. View photography taken from Plot 4501. Digital illustration is indicative only. Pricing correct on 24.03.17.
 The Art of Living.
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Southbank is beingg
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 #OTL
JONATHAN HEAF IS...
...with IAN McSHANE
The acting deity returns for
a new fantasy blockbuster
(and shepherd’s pie) at the
Colony Grill Room
s I’m waiting for actor Ian
 A McShane – Lovejoy, to anyone
eligible for a Freedom pass
on London transport ; Al
“Cocksucker” Swearengen from
Deadwood to all Americans – to arrive at the
Colony Grill Room in Mayfair I begin chewing
over an idea: who did God best?
I don’t mean “did” in the sort of Mary
Magdalene, feet-washing with a happy ending
sort of a way, that would be crass of me. No,
who portrayed Him best on screen? I know
what you’re thinking: Morgan Freeman in
Bruce Almighty, right? With his big melty
Dairy Milk smile, wry asides, snow-white suit
and an earring borrowed from Harrison Ford, Freeman seemed like a
good fit, didn’t he? All wise and learned. And naff. Like most religions
nowadays. Other than Louisiana voodoo.
Is God cool? Like, I don’t know, the Weeknd? Or Stormzy? Does He
wear Saint Laurent? Maybe Supreme is a better fit. Is He a numbers
guy in 2017 rather than caring about street cred? Ed Sheeran, in that
respect, would make a pretty decent God for this day and age. Or maybe
a better Jesus? I mean, he’s got the guitar and campfire songs down pat
already. Although not even the Son of God could forgive his father for
making him ginger. “Thanks a bunch, Dad!” To be honest God is prob-
ably an app. Or a software update. Or this glass of
Pouilly Fume I ordered. Or the salted almonds, olives McShane makes a
and parmesan thins glowing in front of me; the Holy
Trinity of my pre-meal snack A game. very plausible
I only ponder this as Ian McShane – who has just supreme being
turned up wearing shades inside, like a total boss –
can this month be seen on your preferred domestic
screens playing God, or at least, playing a god in
American Gods, a much frothed-over adaptation of Neil Gaiman’s novel
of the same name.
Gaiman – for those of you over 50 who think Tinder is something
used to start a pub fire – is an author who has fans, or rather superfans,
in the same way George RR Martin (who wrote Game Of Thrones) has
fans, a writer who incidentally also looks a bit like God.
“The programme is about faith,” McShane tells me as he settles down
into his seat. Actually, it’s the second seat we try. The seat I chose he
didn’t much like and I agree the booth by the far wall is preferable. “It’s
a story about belief. About old gods and new gods. Norse gods. I play
a character called Wednesday, also a god.”
VERDICT Grace +++,, Holiness ++,,,  Mercy +,,,,  Omnipresence ++++,  Cleanliness +++++  Justice ++,,,  Overall ++++,
Sitting before me McShane makes for a very
plausible supreme being. Dapper suit, face like
a frowning walnut and just the right amount
of jewellery. I always like my god in some-
thing tailored, don’t you? I don’t see why the
devil gets all the girls and all the gear (think
Al Pacino in The Devil’s Advocate) while Him
Upstairs must mope about reading Psalms in
an inchy hessian sack.
Onscreen McShane’s god looks like a Greek
hustler, a Turkish card shark; a man with snake
eyes, fake tan and an oily one-liner. A man
with menace and ambition. He’ll save your
soul, sure, but at what price? There is, after
all, no such thing as a free lunch.
If McShane is God and I was facing death
then the shepherd’s pie with peas from this
very restaurant would make a fine last meal.
I come to the Colony Room Grill – as does
McShane he confesses, often staying here
when he’s not in LA – as much as I can and
always with people I could spend an afternoon drinking French 75s
with. Till death, or gout, do us part.
The food (chicken pot pie, Cajun spiced swordfish, gammon and pine-
apple) would work well for a homesick American. Many of the dishes
are so rich you can feel your blood thicken as the food arrives.
“The fans of the book were very, shall we say, vocal,” chuckles
McShane. “We went to Comic-Con when the cast was announced and
some of them disagreed with who was picked for which part.” McShane
is trying to be vaguely diplomatic, it seems. It doesn’t last. He has pre-
vious form tweaking the noses of the fantasy lit fan boys – or “virgins”
as I like to think of them.
Last month McShane accurately described Game Of
Thrones as a television show about little more than,
“tits and dragons”, and hundreds if not thousands of
trolling geeks attempted to have him hanged before
their Grand Wizards of Dorkdom, or whoever it is
they look to for authority, probably HBO. Fat chance.
McShane couldn’t give a toss. “Let them howl,” he
grins over the furore. “My Thrones character is dead! What more do
they want? Resurrection?”
Speaking of which, we both order single macchiatos to pump a caf-
Illustrations Anton Emdin; Zohar Lazar
feine shot into our failing, engorged livers. “You get to my age and
you’re just thankful you’re still around getting work.”
Isn’t that just the sort of thing God would say? We pay our way and
head outside to wait for divine intervention by way of an Uber. My
phone whirrs. “Muhammad is arriving now in a Honda Accord.” Amen
to that, brother.
The Colony Room Grill, The Beaumont, 8 Balderton Street, Brown Hart
Gardens, London, W1. 0207 499 9499. colonygrillroom.com
HUGOBOSS.COM
Please turn the page to view Supplement
 S P R I N G S U M M E R 2 0 1 7

F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

TIME FOR
A BREAK
The coolest
NEVER PUT A watches
FOOT WRONG to wear
on the beach
The best shoes
to buy right now

143
ESSENTIAL
PIECES
FOR EVERY
MAN’S
WARDROBE

STYLE HACKS
OUR PICK OF THE BEST LOOKS FOR THIS SUMMER
I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H

NEXT.CO.UK
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

EDITOR’S
LETTER
Jacket, £60. Trousers, THIS summer is looking like it will go down as an
£29. Both at Next. next.
co.uk. Jumper by
epic period for masculine style. Men today have
Sørensen, £165. a wider choice of clothing than ever before – and
studiosorensen.com. we aren’t afraid to flaunt it.
Sunglasses by Ray-Ban,
£143. rayban.com GQ Fashion Forward, in association with Next,
shows you the way with the pick of the best
pieces in the shops right now.
For example, tailoring is loosening up in every
Cover Photograph Nik Hartley sense with more comfortable fits that work
Styling Grace Gilfeather
brilliantly with T-shirts when worn casually – the
suit is now a wardrobe staple rather than simply
office-wear. Likewise, super-skinny jeans may
well have had their day, so invest instead in
trousers with a more relaxed fit cropped just
above the ankle – perfect for a no-sock look.
The style also offers a more positive presage of
a return to a high waist than we have seen in
recent years.
On top, there are summer parkas in super-
lightweight materials that will keep you dry
whatever the weather without you having to
44 worry about sweating it. And it’s the brighter the
better for summer. Meanwhile, pastel shades
should be on every man’s spectrum – perfect
for everything from swimshorts to shoes.
Elsewhere, fashion has fallen in love with
skating subculture and streetwear has been
transformed into the mainstream way of
dressing, so choose your logo tee and wear it
with pride. And don’t forget the track pants and
tops to complete the look.

Robert Johnston, Fashion Director

12

Editor-in-Chief Dylan Jones

Fashion Director and Editor Robert Johnston
Managing Editor Mark Russell
Chief Sub-Editor George Chesterton
Contributing Stylists Sophie Clark, Carlotta Constant,
Grace Gilfeather, Jake Pummintr

Publisher Vanessa Kingori

I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H
Associate Director: Creative Solutions Alexandra Carter
Art Directors James Warner, Nick Paterson
Designer Jeffrey Lee
Contributing Photographers Jessie Lily Adams, Matthew
Beedle, Nik Hartley, Rebecca Naen, Mitch Payne, Jody Todd

©2017 The Condé Nast Publications Ltd. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.
Not to be sold separately from the June 2017 issue of GQ magazine.
NEXT.CO.UK 40 Printed by Wyndeham Group. Colour origination by Tag: Response.

1
 From top: Shoes by Dune,
£140. dunelondon.com.
Shoes, £185. Shoes, £175.
Both by Russell &
Bromley. russelland
bromley.co.uk. Shoes by
Next, £48. next.co.uk.
Shoes by Timberland,
£130. timberland.co.uk.
Boots by Penelope
Chilvers, £199.
penelopechilvers.com

2
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Trainers by
Michael Kors, £160.
michaelkors.co.uk.
Trainers by Lacoste,
£65. At asos.com
Trainers by Next,
£28. next.co.uk.
Trainers by Oliver
Spencer, £149.
oliverspencer.co.uk.
Trainers by Vans,
£149. At End
Clothing. end
clothing.com

Shoes by Peter Werth, £69. At Schuh. schuh.co.uk

Shoes by Next, £48. next.co.uk
Shoes by Farah, £65. At asos.com
Shoes by Timberland, £130. timberland.co.uk
Shoes by Russell & Bromley, £175. russellandbromley.co.uk

SHOE AND TELL

From patent monkstraps to mock-croc sneakers, your choice of footwear
has never been wider or better. It’s time to vote with your feet

PHOTOGRAPH BY Mitch Payne STYLING BY Carlotta Constant

Shoes by KG Kurt
Geiger, £99.
kurtgeiger.com
Shoes by Dune, £140.
dunelondon.com
Shoes by Grenson,
£210. grenson.com
Shoes by Massimo
Dutti, £100.
massimodutti.com
Shoes by Aldo, £90.
aldoshoes.com

Shoes by Paul Smith, £300. At matchesfashion.com

Shoes by Dr Martens, £180. drmartens.com
Shoes by Ask The Missus, £75. At Office. office.co.uk
Shoes by Base London, £70. At Schuh. schuh.co.uk
Shoes by Russell & Bromley, £185. russellandbromley.co.uk

3
Trousers by Charlie
Casely-Hayford for
Topman, £60. topman.
com. Bomber, £60.
T-shirt, £35. Trainers,
£45. All by Topman.
topman.com.
Sunglasses by Persol,
£192. At David Clulow.
davidclulow.com

Opposite: Sweatshirt,
£14. Trousers, £22. Both
by Next. next.co.uk.
Trainers by Aldo, £65.
aldo.com

4
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

B R E A K
PHOTOGRAPHS BY Nik Hartley

T H E
STYLING BY Grace Gilfeather

R U L E S
For a sporty take on tailoring go for low-key casual
comfort mixed with structured trousers and jackets.
But not a shirt or tie in sight...

5
Blazer, £85. Trousers, £40.
Both by Asos. asos.com
Jumper by Ami, £290.
amiparis.com. Sunglasses
by Ray-Ban, £270.
rayban.com

6
F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

23
Jumper by
Topman, £30.
topman.com.
Trousers by Next,
£30. next.co.uk.
Watch by
Tateossian, £175.
tateossian.com

7
Jacket, £79.99. Sweatshirt,
£24.99. Trousers, £29.99.
All by H&M. hm.com.
Trainers by Stradivarius,
£36. stradvarius.com. Stool
by Made, £99. made.com

8
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Jacket, £110. Trousers,

£40. Sunglasses, £10.
All by River Island.
riverisland.com. T-shirt
by Maison Labiche, £49.
maisonlabiche.com.
Trainers by Clarks, £65.
clarks.co.uk.

9
 Bomber, £50. Trousers, £30.
Both by New Look. newlook.com

10
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Blazer by Marks &

Spencer, £129.
marksandspencer.com.
T-shirt by Topman, £32.
topman.com. Track pants
by PS Paul Smith, £110.
paulsmith.com. Trainers
by Stradivarius, £40.
stradivarius.com. Watch
by Nixon, £55. nixon.com

Styling assistant Amelia Hudson

Grooming Ben Jones using Davines
and Mac Cosmetics
Photographic assistant Will Corry
Models Jhon Burjak at AMCK

11
 Oversize GA-100B-7AER
by G-Shock, £110.
g-shock.co.uk
Goggles by Speedo, £18.
At Next. next.co.uk

Ice Sporty by Ice-Watch, £115.

ice-watch.com. Sunscreen by
Clinique, £25. clinique.co.uk

A R M C A N D Y

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Matthew Beedle

STYLING BY Jake Pummintr

Model Efren at Hired

Hand Models
Manicurist Tinu Bello
at One Represents

Base Tide by Nixon, £85.

nixon.com. Bat and ball set Solleore by Swatch, £76.
by Frescobol Carioca, £150. swatch.com. Sunglasses
At mrporter.com by Next, £14. next.co.uk

12

Brighten up those lazy days with watches designed for fun and games
Helvetica Bold by
Mondaine, £355. At John
Lewis. johnlewis.com.
Passport cover by
Aspinal Of London, £55.
aspinaloflondon.com
F A S H I O N F O R W A R D
Power Reserve by Citizen,
£199. citizenwatch.com
Straw hat by Next, £12.
next.co.uk
Paris Watch by Boss
Orange, £115. At Next.
next.co.uk. Solo3 wireless
headphones by Beats By
Dre, £250. beatsbydre.com
13
D E S E R T
Smarten up your summer with the latest offering from Next.
From Fifties-inspired tailoring to casual athleisure, it has
everything you need to look sharp this season

S T O R M
PHOTOGRAPHS BY Josh Shinner STYLING BY Holly Roberts
P A R T N E R S H I P

Jacket, £75. Shirt, £22.

Trousers, £35. Sunglasses
by Ray-Ban, £125.

All items available

at Next. next.co.uk
Jacket, £75. Shirt, £25. Trousers, £35. Trainers, £28. Sunglasses, £14.

All items available at Next. next.co.uk

 P A R T N E R S H I P

Jacket, £80. Shirt, £25. Vest, £6.

All items available at Next. next.co.uk

Shirt, £25. Vest, £6. Trousers, £40. Shoes, £45.

All items available at Next. next.co.uk

 P A R T N E R S H I P

Bomber jacket, £40. Crew neck top, £24. Shorts, £25. Sunglasses by Ray-Ban, £115.

All items available at Next. next.co.uk

Shirt, £22. Trousers, £40. Sunglasses by Ray-Ban, £115.

All items available at Next. next.co.uk

 P A R T N E R S H I P

Shirt, £25. Trousers, £40. Sandals, £30. Sunglasses, £14.

All items available at Next. next.co.uk

Bomber jacket, £50. Crew neck top, £26. T-shirt, £6. Shorts, £26.

All items available at Next. next.co.uk

 Grooming Michael Gray using Sisley skincare and Bumble and Bumble haircare Model Alex Dunstan at Select With thanks to princesayaiza.com
*All stock subject to availability. Delivery exclusions apply. Check next.co.uk for full terms and conditions

Shirt, £22. Vest, £6. Sunglasses by Ray-Ban, £115.

All items available at Next. next.co.uk. Shop by midnight for next day delivery as standard for £3.99 or free to store*
P A R T N E R S H I P
Track top by Diadora, £65. diadora.co.uk

I N D I S P E N S A B L E
S U M M E R T R E N D S
Here’s our round-up of the essential pieces that will help
make this a season to remember

24
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Track top by Next, £18. Track top by Fila, £65. Track top by Fred Perry, £75.
next.co.uk fila.co.uk fredperry.com

ZIP! IT!! UP!!!

The Nineties are back and if you are gearing up for getting down, finding
the perfect track top should be your first priority

PHOTOGRAPH BY Rebecca Naen STYLING BY Carlotta Constant

Photographs Jody Todd

Track top by Asos, £32. Track top by Original Penguin, £75. Track top by Ami, £190.
asos.com originalpenguin.co.uk At Harrods. harrods.com

25
 26
T-shirt, £16. Jumper, £26. Jeans, £38. Socks, £12. All by Next. next.co.uk. Shirt by Soulland, £116. At Style.com . Shoes by Vans, £60. vans.com
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Trousers by New Look, £25. Trousers by Shore Leave, £49. At Jeans by H&M, £39.99.
newlook.com Urban Outfitters. urbanoutfitters.com hm.com

SHORT ORDERS
We’ll go to any lengths to look good – and right now trouser-wise that
means searching out the pick of the crop

PHOTOGRAPH BY Rebecca Naen STYLING BY Carlotta Constant

Photographs Jody Todd

Trousers by Reiss, £120. Trousers by Topman, £35. Trousers by Asos, £30.

reiss.com topman.com asos.com

27
F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Jacket by Topman, £50. Jacket by Next, £28. Jacket by Libertine, £225.

topman.co.uk next.co.uk libertine-libertine.co.uk

BOMBER COMMAND
Get all bombastic with the most versatile piece in any man’s wardrobe.
Perfect for dressing up – and down

PHOTOGRAPH BY Rebecca Naen STYLING BY Carlotta Constant

Photographs Jody Todd

Jacket by Selected Homme, £200. Jacket by Pepe Jeans, £130. Jacket by The Kooples, £298.
At Next. next.co.uk pepejeans.co.uk thekooples.co.uk

28
 29
Jacket by Topman, £50. topman.co.uk. T-shirt, £6. Shirt, £25. Both by Next. next.co.uk
 30
Shoes, £45. Jeans, £40. Both by Next. next.co.uk. Badges by Pintrill, £10 each. pintrill.com
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Shoes by Ted Baker, £105. Shoes by GH Bass & Co, £100. Shoes by Geox, £110.
At Schuh. schuh.co.uk ghbass-eu.com geox.com

DRIVING AMBITIONS
You’ll never have to forego style for comfort with these car shoes that
come in a range of colours inspired by the season

PHOTOGRAPH BY Rebecca Naen STYLING BY Carlotta Constant

Photographs Jody Todd

Shoes by Fairfax & Favor, £120. Shoes by Ask The Missus, £60. Shoes by Dune, £70.
fairfaxandfavor.com At Office. office.co.uk dunelondon.com

31
F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Shirt by Soulland, £130. At Urban Shirt by Uniqlo U, £25. Shirt by H&M, £19.99.
Outfitters. urbanoutfitters.com uniqlo.com hm.com

TROPIC AL HEAT
A Hawaiian shirt is the best excuse to be bold this summer, so get
yourself some attention with an eye-catching print

PHOTOGRAPH BY Rebecca Naen STYLING BY Carlotta Constant

Photographs Jody Todd

Shirt by Afield, £55. Shirt by Reiss, £95. Shirt by River Island, £25.
afield.uk reiss.com riverisland.com

32
 33
Shirt by Next, £25. next.co.uk. Jumper by Paul Smith, £200. paulsmith.com. Necklace by H Samuel, £499. hsamuel.co.uk
 34
Parka by Tommy Hilfiger, £550. tommyhilfiger.com
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Parka by Stone Island, £825. Parka by Lacoste, £325. Parka by Hunter Original, £295.
stoneisland.com lacoste.com hunterboots.com

WALK IN THE PARK A

From big prints to block colours, whatever your aesthetic, here are some
of the coolest ways to face the rain and shine

PHOTOGRAPH BY Rebecca Naen STYLING BY Carlotta Constant

Photographs Jody Todd

Parka by Timberland, £225. Parka by Pretty Green, £165. Parka by Abercrombie & Fitch, £100.
timberland.co.uk prettygreen.com At Next. next.co.uk

35
T-shirt, £18. Swim Shorts, £15. Both by Next. next.co.uk. Top by River Island, £18. riverisland.com.

36
Socks by Kappa, £10. At Urban Outfitters. urbanoutfitters.com. Shoes by Vans, £55. vans.com
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Swim shorts by Urban Outfitters, Swim shorts by Vilebrequin, £400. Swim shorts by Bluemint, £105.
£30. urbanoutfitters.com vilebrequin.com bluemint.com

TRUNK SHOW
If you’re planning on going off the deep end this summer keep it simple
with shorts that will help you duck and dive

PHOTOGRAPH BY Rebecca Naen STYLING BY Carlotta Constant

Photographs Jody Todd

Swim shorts by Primark, £4. Swim shorts by Marks & Spencer, Swim shorts by Boardies, £50.
primark.com £15. marksandspencer.com boardiesapparel.com

37
F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

T-shirt by Cheap Monday, £20. T-shirt by Kappa, £25. T-shirt by Tommy Jeans, £20.
cheapmonday.com At Topman. topman.com tommy.com

DOWN TO A TEE
Invest in the write stuff and get something on your chest with the best
bunch of logo T-shirts that declare your allegiances

PHOTOGRAPH BY Rebecca Naen STYLING BY Carlotta Constant

Photographs Jody Todd

T-shirt by Carhartt, £35. T-shirt by Levi’s, £20. T-shirt by Fila, £35.

carhartt-wip.com At Next. next.com fila.com

38
 39
T-shirt by Guess x A$AP Rocky, £60. guess.eu. Hoodie by Topman, £25. topman.co.uk
 40
Jacket, £45. Jeans, £55. Backpack, £25. All by Next. next.co.uk.Top by Adidas, £62. adidas.com
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Backpack by Mi-Pac, £30. Backpack by Sandqvist, £95. Backpack by Matt & Nat, £135.
mi-pac.com sandqvist.net mattandnat.com

PACKS WITH PUNCH

Back yourself up with the pick of the best rucksacks to ensure your
coolest looks are always behind you

PHOTOGRAPH BY Rebecca Naen STYLING BY Carlotta Constant

Photographs Jody Todd

Backpack by Sandro, £195. Backpack by Eastpak, £40. Backpack by Diesel, £285.

sandro-paris.com eastpak.com diesel.com

41
F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Track pants by H&M, £19.99. Track pants by PS Paul Smith, £110. Track pants by Next, £18.
hm.com paulsmith.com next.co.uk

RIGHT ON TRACK
Every man needs a pair of track pants – the only thing you have to worry
about is choosing your favourite style

PHOTOGRAPH BY Rebecca Naen STYLING BY Carlotta Constant

Photographs Jody Todd

Track pants (part of set) by Boohoo, Track pants by Adidas, £48. Track pants by Scotch & Soda, £95.
£25. boohoo.com adidas.co.uk scotch-soda.com

42
 Top by Next, £8. next.co.uk. Trainers by Reebok, £60. At Next. next.co.uk. Necklace by H Samuel, £229. hsamuel.co.uk
Jumper by Loom, £60. Track Pants by Kappa, £40. Both at Urban Outfitters. urbanoutfitters.com.

Make-up Laura Dexter

Hair Simon Khan, booked through
the Taylor Taylor London Creative
Agency using Davines
Retouched by Mr&Mrs Focus
Photographic assistant Rhys Gray
Styling assistant Amelia Hudson
Models Andrew Georgiades at
Wihelmina; Marcus and Jacob
Young at Select Model Management

43
 44
Shirt, £20. Towels, £18 each. Both by Next. next.co.uk
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

S U M M E R
D A Z E
Make the most of the long, hot season with
simple styles from shorts to shirts that make
every weekend feel like a holiday

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Jessie Lily Adams

STYLING BY Sophie Clark

45
 46
Jacey wears trunks by Next, £12. next.co.uk. Ryan wears swimshorts by Orlebar Brown, £145. orlebarbrown.com
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

T-shirt, £24. Trainers, £28. Both by Next. next.co.uk. Trousers by River Island, £25. riverisland.com.
Socks by Topman, £3. topman.com

47
 48
T-shirt by Next, £6. next.co.uk. Swimshorts by Orlebar Brown, £145. orlebarbrown.com. Ring, model’s own
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Trunks by Ron Dorff, £65. rondorff.com

49
 50
Trousers, £25. Towel, £20. Both by Next. next.co.uk
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

Shirt by Next, £25. next.co.uk. Necklace by Topman, £6. topman.com

Styling assistants Angelo Mitakos and Penny Chan Hair Josh Knight Grooming Claudine Blythman using Rodial
Photographic assistant Roy J Baron Models Jacey at Select and Ryan K at Premier

51

SK ATE B RITAIN
Street and skatewear are the biggest influences on men’s fashion right now.
We ask five people in the business to nominate the best British brands of all time
STORY BY Carlotta Constant
SILAS & MARIA
Kyle Stewart, co-director of Goodhood
“Perhaps the greatest British streetwear brand you’ve never heard of.
Why? Silas went on to define a new aesthetic for British consumers
merging grown-up skater clothes with something a little more refined,
paving the way for a plethora of today’s brands. It had some of London’s
best creatives working for it, producing the best T-shirts of the late
Nineties. Members of the team went on to create toymaker Amos,
womenswear brand Aries, the mighty Palace and, of course, Goodhood.
Silas & Maria did what every self-respecting rock-star brand should –
ended it suddenly and abruptly with no explanation.”
T-shirt, £40. Hat, £25. Both by Satta. At goodhoodstore.com
52
T-shirt by indcsn, £33.
indcsn.com
INDCSN
Adam Scotland, sales & marketing manager
at Out Of Step
”Streetwear has always been about the
underground and the obscure and this is what first
drew me to indcsn’s bold graphics. As someone
who grew up listening to punk and hardcore and
developed an interest in streetwear later in life,
indcsn’s references to some of my all-time
favourite bands with its own take on classic band
merchandise spoke to me immediately. I first
discovered this Leeds brand in 2010, shortly after
its launch, thanks in part to its flip on a T-shirt
originally by hardcore punk band Uniform Choice.
Appropriating imagery from bands and the
American hardcore scene has become commonplace
now – and not just in streetwear – but indcsn has
been doing it since its foundation and for that
reason its style and significance, although often
imitated, will never be duplicated.”
 F A S H I O N F O R W A R D

MAHARISHI
Olly Smith, men’s contemporary, sneakers and lifestyle buyer at Harvey Nichols

“The current resurgence of to its guns, too. It doesn’t adapt

PALACE
Carin Nakanishi,
buyer and operations
manager at Coventure
and the Garbstore
“When you say British
streetwear, there’s only one
name you need to know:
Palace. It’s the only label
that has followed in
Supreme’s footsteps, with
queues outside its store and
drops selling out within
minutes. From this season
Palace is only sold via its
website and store in Soho.
So, despite its global rise,
it stays grounded, proudly
championing London as
part of who it is and what
it does.”
Jumper by Palace, £140.
palaceskateboards.com
British streetwear is not only a
good thing for British fashion,
but is also long overdue.
Among the new crop of brands,
sits an OG that holds a
resonance with me more than
most: Maharishi. I’ve never had
the pleasure of meeting founder
Hardy Blechman, but my
relationship with the brand
started when I was 19 years old
with a tonal embroidered pair
of Olive Snopants and continues
today 12 years later with a Tour
D’Afrique shirt from the latest
collection. My ongoing love
affair with Maharishi is down to
the collections having instant
style appeal. The brand sticks
DUFFER OF ST GEORGE
Craig Ford, CEO/owner of fashion distributor A Number Of Names
“My definition of streetwear
traces its lineage to the days of
jazz modernism and kids
re-appropriating sportswear
(such as tennis polos being worn
in swanky Soho clubs). The next
incarnation was the Italian and
then French casualwear brands.
They designed clothes for
to suit trends but instead keeps
its core customer engaged with
enough to know-how to appeal
to a social-media driven,
knowledgeable young
demographic. It’s one of my
favourite appointments in the
season and I always leave its
flagship store in London’s Soho
with a sense that I’ve seen
something new. If I have time to
peep behind the scenes, it’s like
the best episode of The Hoarder
Next Door with one of the most
impressive archives that you’re
ever likely to see.”
Shirt by Maharishi, £250. At
harveynichols.com
teenagers which were then Eighties I wore what I could
adopted in the UK. These French afford by these two brands. I
brands, especially Chipie and travelled by bus to London to
Chevignon, were one of the visit the Duffer store in Soho,
influences behind two of the arriving at night to stay in a
biggest names of modern fleapit B&B in Earl’s Court. I was
streetwear – Duffer from the UK so desperate for a fix, I couldn’t
and Stüssy, from the US. As a wait till the shop opened on the
teenager in Glasgow in the late Saturday morning.”

Sweatshirt by Duffer of St George, £40.

At jacamo.co.uk

53
 STYLE TIP
Whether you’re investing in
tailoring or out-of-office
essentials this season, keep
your palette tonal to inject
a touch of luxury

Jacket, £45. Sweatshirt,

£28. T-Shirt, £6. Shorts,
£25. Socks (pack of
seven), £19. Trainers, £28.
Sunglasses by Ray-Ban,
£115. All available at Next.
next.co.uk

T H E E D I T
Make sure you perfect your off-duty look this season with the hottest
selection of summer essentials from Next
PHOTOGRAPHS BY Josh Shinner EDITED BY Holly Roberts
 P A R T N E R S H I P

Rucksack by Next, £25.

next.co.uk

Sunglasses by Next, £14.

next.co.uk

Polo shirt by
Next, £26.
next.co.uk

Hair and body wash

by Next, £4. Sweatshirt by Next, £28.
next.co.uk next.co.uk

UV Moisturiser
by Next, £6.
next.co.uk
*All stock subject to availability. Delivery exclusions apply. Check next.co.uk for full terms and conditions

(Main image)
Jacket, £45.
Sweatshirt, £18. T-shirt,
Swimshorts by Next, £14. £6. Shorts, £16. Socks
next.co.uk (pack of seven), £19.
Trainers, £38.
Rucksack, £30.
All available at Next.
next.co.uk

MIDNIGHT
EXPRESS
Shop by MIDNIGHT
for next day delivery
as standard for £3.99*
or FREE to store

T-shirt by Next,
£22. next.co.uk

Sunglasses by Next, £14. next.co.uk

Shorts by Next, £22. Shirt by

next.co.uk Next, £22.
next.co.uk
F A S H I O N F O R W A R D
SMOOTH OPER ATORS
How to master the perfect shave from Tony Bonaventura,
founder of Arthur Razor Gentlemen’s Grooming
HEAT
IT UP
Heat is key when
preparing the skin
before shaving with a
razor. The more heat the
better, so apply a hot
towel to the face and
leave it for around five
minutes. This softens the
skin so you will enjoy a
closer, smoother shave.
The blade
Always make sure your
blade is clean and sterile
before use. This is crucial
as skin particles can get
caught between the blades
and leads to germs and the
growth of bacteria. Use
boiling water after every
shave to sterilise. A clean
razor shaves better.
6 Finishing touches
Once your face feels smooth,
apply cold water to the skin.
This closes the pores and help
soothe any irritation.
TOP TIP
Rub an ice-cube over the
skin post-shave. It both
nourishes and soothes the
shaved area in one cool hit.
56
2 Exfoliate
Any exfoliation should be done APPLY
just before you shave. Clean your
skin and get rid of any dead cells
by using a decent facial scrub
SHAVE
in a circular motion for a few
minutes. This helps remove oil and
CREAM
dirt, unblocking the razor’s path
to a close, comfortable shave.
A good shave cream
should whip up into a
TOP TIP fluffy creamy texture. Add
a little extra oil into the
Apply more heat after
scrubbing. This will mix to create a texture
remove any remaining that’s rich and moist,
lotion left on the skin. perfect to shave into.
THE
SHAVE
DOWNWARDS
Start by shaving
with the grain, by
that I mean down, UPWARDS/ACROSS
Once you have finished
in the direction shaving down, apply
the bristles grow. more heat followed by
more shaving cream.
Pulling the skin Now shave upwards
upwards as you and across. Keep
shave downwards pulling the skin to get
tension. Move the
creates good blade up and across
tension so the the skin. You’re going
against the grain now
blade can shave and this helps bring
nice and close to any ingrown hairs to
the skin. the surface, also
Story Carlotta Constant Illustration Nick Paterson
known as razor bumps.
They heal and clear
quickly so if you feel
any, just roll with it.
THE ULTIMATE ENDING Finish by applying
an oil-free moisturiser. This will hydrate your
skin, leaving it fresh. Drink plenty of water
post shave – feed your skin from the inside out
– you’ll look and feel great whatever the day
throws your way. arthurrazor.com