Professional Documents
Culture Documents
When heaving up the anchor, ensure that it is washed down properly, freeing the
ground soil and debris from around the flukes and fluke swivel areas. If this is left, the
debris can quickly build up and solidify, reducing the fluke angle and the efficiency of
the anchor. It also reduces the build-up of mud in the chain locker and helps keep the
suctions free. When chain has not been properly washed down, it can easily be seen by
the flying dried mud that is thrown around the foc'sle when the anchor is next let go.
Here is another point to think about. A large lump of dried mud can be rock hard. If this
hits one of the foc'sle party, especially in the face, severe injuries could result.
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If the ship is of the size and trade where breaking the anchor for buoy moorings might
occur, it is wise to break the joining shackle at periodic intervals to ensure that it is not
seized.
Once, as Chief Officer, having spent two days on an old 'type 14' general cargo ship, trying to break
first one cable then the other ready for mooring in Hong Kong, I learnt the hard way. In the end, we cut
through with burning gear. It turned out that the ship, which was 10 years old, had never had the
Kenter joining shackles or any other broken, even in dry dock.
Occasionally, particularly after an anchorage when strain might have been put on
the anchor, have the anchor walked out and view it from the jetty, looking for any
sign of a bent shank or fluke. Check the main pin on the D anchor joining shackle. See
that the split pin is in position and replace this if it is worn or missing. The main pin on the
joining shackle can be spot welded to prevent loss.
Wire markings are used to assist with recognition of the number of shackles. This has
been neglected on many ships but, when the cable is dirty or painting has been
neglected, the wire marking can still be useful. The marking should be as follows:
At 15 fathoms: One turn of wire on the first stud from each side of the joining
shackle
at 30 fathoms: Two turns of wire on the second stud from each side of the
joining shackle
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at 45 fathoms: Three turns of wire on the third stud from each side of the joining
shackle.
Then a similar pattern for further shackles.
Ensure that the cables are marked in clear white paint and that they are repainted
regularly. This is still the best way for knowing how many shackles are out. The best way
for this is to have white paint standing by for marking each time you heave your anchor.
Regular greasing of the windlass and removal of old grease, particularly from the brake
spindle, ensures that the brake can be fully screwed up. This should be carried out
frequently, especially on heavy bulk cargo vessels where the build-up of debris can mix
with the grease and form a hard substance that can prevent the brakes from being
properly applied.
Check the compression bar for wear, particularly at the sides, as this might enable the
bar to slide up from the chain.
Have the chain stoppers greased regularly and ensure that they can be tightened fully.
Check that the hawse pipe covers and the spurling pipe covers fit properly and that,
whether cement or foam is used for the spurling pipe, it is effective in stopping water
ingress. Make sure that old cement and foam are removed from the spurling pipe.
Ensure that your stock of groundwork equipment is adequate for the tasks expected. The
spare joining shackles, D rings and links should all be kept well greased and the spile
pins ready. The wire strop for hanging off the anchor should be of the safe working load
for the anchor and the stenhouse slip should be in good condition.
Prior to arrival at the anchorage, it is good procedure to clear away the anchors. There
are two reasons for this, one is that the ship will be entering coastal waters before
anchoring and it is good seamanship to have your anchors cleared in coastal waters, and
the other is that it gives you time to clear the anchors properly and ensure that everything
is in order.
If you are anchoring at night, check that the lights are working and cleared of any
covers if coming in from a long sea passage. Always clear away both anchors.
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In deep water or on large vessels with heavy anchors, it is wise to walk the anchors
back to just above the water. Then the Master can decide whether he wishes to walk
them back all the way to the bottom or let them go from this position.
If letting the anchor run, make sure that no one is standing in front of the anchor cable.
Don't forget to report the anchors ready for letting go and, when in the anchor position,
check that all is clear for letting go, again advising the bridge.
Once the chain is paid out it must not be held on the brake. Instead the stoppers must be
put on and the cable slacked back until the weight of the cable is held on them as they are
designed for this purpose.
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The bridge is totally reliant on you telling them the direction of the cable and the
weight on it and this should be constantly reported during the anchoring procedure.
Ensure that, as the cable comes in, the shackle number is passed to the bridge and that
you repaint these shackles with white paint for future identification.
When the anchor is coming to the surface of the water, check that it is clear and, if so,
report this. At night, you must have a bright beam light to shine on the anchor.
When the anchor is up and stowed you can put the brake and stoppers on and take it out
of gear. If the Master requires, the anchors can then be secured for sea.
In all anchor operations there is an element of danger, so injuries happen every year. You
should, therefore, be purely in a supervisory position and not driving the windlass or doing
other work.
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