Bangladesh

ISSN 1999-2076
Reg. 8/2012
April 2020
Driving business with knowledge
www.textiletoday.com.bd

Volume 13 | Issue 04 | 100 Pages | BDT 200, USD 10

April 2020
See advertisement at page 33 See advertisement at page 11 See advertisement at page 29

Rightsizing the
Alternative
textile and
marketing, a
apparel industry
great way to gain
to make business
export (Part-1)
sustainable

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear
April 2020
Improving industrial
immune system is only
Long Chains are vulnerable to breakage

way to fight the

See advertisement at page 25 See advertisement at page 39
Interconnectivity among short chains reduces risk and
creates more trust and sustainability
pandemic disruptions

See advertisement at page 21 See advertisement at page 17

Unveiling industry best practices
Apparel accessories & fashion
April 2020
 Over St
ock
ed ?!
Be the
Alibaba Gold Supplier
and Access
The World’s Biggest
B2B Market Place

Alibaba.com
ds etc. in
her Goo
rn, Leat
Ya
brics,
ts, Fa
men
r
t Ga
o
ckL
Sto
r
You
ll
Se

Authorized Channel Partner

Address: T. +88 02 55093682

25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, M. +88 01775 430 787, +88 01717 035 812
Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh E. wb-mdarif-uz659923@alibaba-inc.com
 Driving business with knowledge

Editorial Panel

Editor in Chief
Prof. Md. Monirul Islam
NO CAUSTIC & PEROXIDE
KNIT PRE TREATMENT
IN

Executive Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan USE
Technical Editor
Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman

BIOLASE APC
Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi
Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak)
Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim

Consulting Editor
Dr. NN Mahapatra
Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz COMBINED ENZYMATIC

SCOURING &
C.N. Sivaramakrishnan
Ashfaque Ahmed

BIO-POLISHING
Associate Editor
Jamal Abdun Naser
Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher)

Managing Editor IN SAME BATH

et
Akhi Akter

r k
Ma ader
Sub Editor
Sanjoy Kumar Saha

Technical Team

Co-ordinator
Le
Setara Begum
Member
“BOOST UP YOUR”
KNIT DYEING
S.N. Abdullah
Amzad Hossain Monir
Rakibul Islam

PRODUCTION & SAVINGS

Editor & Publisher
A.S.M Tareq Amin

Published on 19th April 2020 by

Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd.
House-41, Road-5, Block-B,
Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217
Tel: +88 02 55093682
Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd
Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd Cost Water
Printed by:
VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka.

The views expressed in the

magazine are not necessarily those
of the publisher or the editor. We Chemicals Steam
have taken every effort to ensure
accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today
does not accept any liability for
claims made by advertisers or
contributors. The publisher reserves
the right to edit and publish any
editorial material supplied and does Environment Time
not accept responsibility for loss or
damages of any unsolicited material
or contribution.
© All rights reserved to Amin &
Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2020
Volume 13, Issue 04 (April 2020)
Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.
For Better Tomorrow
 Bangladesh

ISSN 1999-2076
Bangladesh
Reg. 8/2012
April 2020
Driving business with knowledge
www.textiletoday.com.bd
Bangladesh Textile Today

On the Cover
Volume 13 | Issue 04 | 100 Pages | BDT 200, USD 10

See advertisement at page 33 See advertisement at page 11 See advertisement at page 29 Driving business with knowledge
Rightsizing the
Alternative

ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ Mosdorf

textile and
marketing, a
apparel industry

Content
great way to gain
to make business
export (Part-1)
sustainable

Improving industrial
GmbH & Co. KG is a well known
Germany based textile auxiliaries
immune system is only
Long Chains are vulnerable to breakage

way to fight the

See advertisement at page 25 See advertisement at page 39
Interconnectivity among short chains reduces risk and
creates more trust and sustainability
pandemic disruptions

See advertisement at page 21 See advertisement at page 17

and specialty chemical manufacturer.
Their high performance auxiliaries are
April 2020

easing the textile finishing process.

Advertisement
April’ 20 | Volume 13 | Issue 04

12-14 Editorial 24 E-commerce

Today 34-35 Exclusive Interview
Long Chains are vulnerable to breakage
IKEA partnered with Alibaba
to explore the Chinese
e-commerce market

Textile World
Interconnectivity among short chains reduces risk
and creates more trust and sustainability
26-27
Improving industrial immune Stimulus packages of major
system is only way to fight the global apparel producing
pandemic disruptions countries to face corona fallout

15-18 Cover Story

28-30 Cover Plus

Govt should come up with more

stimulus to save textile and
apparel sector

Rightsizing the textile and

apparel industry to make 36-37 Featured Story
business sustainable

19-22 Top Story

BGMEA’s call to global buyers:
Alibaba.com Data

150 million+ 200+

How are industry people reacting?
Registered Members Countries / Regions

10 million+ 16 Real-Time Chat

Active Buyers Translation Languages

170 million+
Products
40+
Industries 31-32 Sustainable
300,000+
Active Inquiries Per Day
5,900+
Product Categories
Innovations
Source: Alibaba Group's public report on "cross-border trade development of SMEs, 2018"
The ways to be productive while
Alternative marketing, a you working from home due to
great way to gain export coronavirus
(Part-1)
38 Export Today
23-24 In Focus Leading apparel manufacturing countries
export to the US (in 2019)

Canceled and delayed orders, in US$ millions 60 54%

(Source: Centre for Global Workers' Rights) 50

600
CGWR/WRC's calculations based on BGMEA data as of March 29, 2020

$550
Sustainable innovations are 40
30 21.30%

coming to textiles
500 20 10.87% 12%
10.37% 9.10%
400 10

$273 0
300

200 $166
$109
100 $59 $62 $56 India 10.37% increase Bangladesh 21.30% increase
$57
$39 $37 $39 $259 mn $5.9 bn

Export Update
$24

40
$23 $38
0
Bestseller

JCPenney

Kiabi

Kohls
C&A

Inditex/Zara

LPP

M&S

Mothercase

Primark

Target

Tesco

VF

Walmart

Cambodia 10.87% increase Vietnam 54% increase

$271 mn $13.56 bn

Jordan 12% increase China 9.10% fall

ILO: Almost 25 million jobs

$300 mn $24.88 bn

COVID-19 Impact on global could be lost worldwide due to Export to US: Vietnam
garment supply chains COVID-19 earning more than
Bangladesh, here is why
Content April’ 20 | Volume 13 | Issue 04

Factory Tales Knitting Today Apparel Today

45 FT Editorial 63 Sweater Today 81-82 Apparel

Updates

Bangladesh textile and

apparel industry during
The fallout from Corona is
COVID-19
Sweater segment hits hard enormous for apparel sector
during COVID-19 pandemic
47 Apparel Today 84 Fashion Today
66-67 Knitting
Updates

Apparel makers to get loan

at 2% to pay workers wage

48 Retailers Today
Fashion becomes standstill
H&M, M&S, PVH, Inditex, KIABI amidst Coronavirus pandemic
and Target confirm to receive
the ready goods 86-89 Medical Textiles

50 Industry Best Knitting activity amid

Practices COVID-19

68-70 Cotton &

Yarn Today

Medical textile: A potential

A well-timed preventive segment to grow
measure by Urmi Group
against COVID-19

58-59 Expert’s Talk

It’s time to work for a
common goal to attain the
optimum solution
Q&A
55-56
71 Yarn & Fabric
Today Why we need to be
a victim of such a
vulnerable global
industry, how
could we reduce
‘E-commerce platforms to
TK35bn worth of yarn, fabrics such shocks on our
bring a new dimension in
piled in mills industry?
apparel business’
 JAKAZOL® HQ
HIGH LIGHT FAST REACTIVE DYES

JAKAZOL® HQ is new high performance high

range to fulfill the increasing
demands of consumers. The range is suitable
for pale to medium shades

Jay House, Panchvati Circle, Ambawadi, Ahmedabad - 380 006, Gujarat, India
E: kbt.gopal@metrokd.com, advaitpurani@jaychemical.com | W: www.jaychemical.com
Editorial
Improving industrial immune
system is only way to fight the
pandemic disruptions
The support is needed for the industry is to increase shock absorbency
Tareq Amin
Novel Coronavirus does not kill all infected persons.
In most cases, people having underlying diseases
are more vulnerable to the virus. Such patients need
hospitalization, ICU support and some of them die. Of
course, there are cases when healthy persons also died
which is less in number and could be told exceptionally.
Similarly, businesses having underlying diseases are
more vulnerable to the situation like this (current
economic and trade disruption). It is true it is an
extraordinary pandemic situation and survival of
non-essential product line businesses will be severely
difficult. However normally already weak companies
will have more possibility to become handicapped,
bankrupt or may even die. Companies that have
good health are like having a better immune system
to fight with the virus.
Now the question would be what are the qualities
that would indicate having a better immune system
making the company capable of fighting in the
economic and trade disruptions like now?
Some points are mentioned below considering the
textile and apparel industry:
Core competence and the business case
In the free market economy and under the global
mechanism of globalization, businesses unnecessarily
(most cases) became too much global. It eventually has
increased risk and companies had to fine-tune more
and had to become more delicate and tinier in defining
‘core competence’ and so outsourced most of the
things and kept only a few things (operations) in house.
It has increased enormous control points and
pressure in supply chain management, partner
management, logistics and a huge amount of internal
and external communication. Companies lost real
business cases and became dependent on many
other factors on which they have no control.
Eventually, some core companies having more
control over the core raw materials and core markets
could gain the market and most others remained
vulnerable. And in a situation like today (on the
effect of COVID-19 pandemic) if the chain collapses,
everybody collapses (whether a weak company or
strong company), as the chain was too long and so
12
Long Chains are vulnerable to breakage
Interconnectivity among short chains reduces risk
and creates more trust and sustainability
Figure 1: To increase the shock absorbency of industries global
supply chain reducing the size of supply chains is imperative.
there were a lot of weak points.
So that to reduce weak points in the value chain,
it is the time to think about reducing the size of
the chains. Making a combination of smaller chains
concentrating within the country, regions or blocks
will reduce risk and reduce vulnerability.
Particularly for the countries like Bangladesh-which
are not much rich in intellectual property or weak
in intangible value addition- will naturally have less
capacity to compensate operational or market
interruptions like what is happening today. Our core
competence is our tangible assets like manpower,
natural resources (water, fuel, power, etc.) So, we
should build our industry in such a way that we will
be having smaller value chains connected, closer
partners, building on stronger bonds.
So far, we have been working on opposite directions.
The BDT 5000 crore rescue fund declared by the
government recently is also declared to be spent
on the long-chain export-oriented companies,
encouraging the build further on the prevailing
weaknesses. The fund or any other support given by
the government should go more to encourage closer,
regional or blockchain-based companies.
Access to market
As per the commitment of WTO or main global
leading countries the global supply chains were
supposed to be completely free. The products and
services were supposed to flow free without barriers.
But the reality was quite different, many countries
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
TEXTILE
SOLUTIONS.

Textile
Auxiliary
Solutions.

Follow us on Instagram @chtjeansandmore

Editorial
imposed many tariff and non-tariff barriers and
protected and controlled many markets.
Building a company based on a market- which has
an abundance of suppliers and also the governments
has more privilege to control and impose more and
more barriers whenever they want- is riskier than
the companies built on markets that are more easily
accessible. Also, has fewer controlling scopes either
by the government or by the giant market players.
In the case of the global mainstream apparel value
chain, the market is almost fully controlled by the top
brands and also governments put many regulations
and controls. This market has very fewer scopes and
freedom for the manufacturers.
In recent times alternative markets have been
developing. When consumers are more moving
towards online platforms, some scopes have been
created to small companies and the market size is
likely to be increased. A portion of the industry could
be built like the wholesale shopping mall model,
which will increase the role of manufacturers in the
supply chain.
So, any government support if goes to the
companies- which built on small quantity markets
linked to e-commerce or online or offline based
markets- would reduce the risk of the industry. The
country would get pathways to sustainable growth.
Access to raw materials
In the current global mechanisms, raw materials
are being transported to thousands of kilometers
to be processed into finished goods. It increases
unnecessary handling and transportation of the
goods, increase cost, increase risk and reduces
sustainability. Industries built on the raw materials
available nearby should have been encouraged by
any government support.
The government should have crafted policy to
increase the value-added application of raw
materials available in Bangladesh like jute and
leather. The country also could build on certain
synthetic fibers by producing core fiber or material
manufacturing facilities. Independent analysis also
could be done on the easily and readily available raw
materials and companies, also should build their core
competencies accordingly. Bangladesh government
could invest and could facilitate businesses to invest
in the steps to get more access and control on the
cotton fields located in many regions in the world.
Product and market diversification
Making a portfolio is always the right idea.
Companies building on product portfolio should have
been encouraged. Normally apparel manufacturers
have become lazy and build only on few products
and few customers. They hardly planned or worked
to build on a product portfolio.
14
Today, when the world needs more protective
clothing than fashion clothing companies and
countries having such capacity, will do the business.
Bangladesh's government when providing rescue
supports such companies should be encouraged.
Value addition and profitability
In the current mechanism, intangible things are
valuable and tangible things are cheap. So natural
resources are sold or used like free and so we are
destroying our world depleting the resources and
bringing calamities after the calamity. Intangible
things are protected by Intellectual Property Right or
Patent or Copy Right but countries like Bangladesh
are selling out natural resources like manpower,
water, gas, etc. very cheap.
Most of the companies while doing there costing
don’t put enough price for the manpower (one of the
cheapest in the world), water, gas, etc. And so, their
value addition is very low and so their profitability is
also low. These companies don’t have enough strength
to withstand shocks like a current pandemic.
Any government support should help companies
building further on intangible assets. Knowledge
and skills of manpower should be the priority of
the companies. The government could have given
interest-free loans or even grants for the human
capital transformation of the companies.
Consumption of natural resources and protection of
the environment must be monitored. Mechanisms should
be brought in place to protect these. Companies doing
such conservation should have to go encouragement
and more support from the government.
Value chain partnership build-up
Interdependence and trust are very important to
prevail within the value chain partners. Companies
providing values to the customers and suppliers
should have awarded. Trading and supply between
companies should be safer and easier. Trustworthy
partners can provide support to companies in a
critical time.
In a situation like today when cash flow is very
important, companies who built on trust and
maintain quality and commitment with the suppliers
and customers will get support from them.
Flexibility and innovativeness
The cruel culture of cost-cutting reduces the
flexibility and innovativeness of the companies. It
increases risk and creates tension and rigidity within
the system. Besides being productive and effective,
innovativeness must be practiced within the company.
Companies that encourage research and development
should get support from the governments. Such
companies not only reduce their own risk but also
create pathways for others to follow.
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
 Cover Story

Rightsizing
the textile and
apparel industry
to make business
sustainable
Md. Eousup Novee

The textile and apparel industry has been enduring

profit erosion for the last couple of years. The
expanded size of factories makes them more
vulnerable. Bigger the size, the stronger the need to
feed them for survival. The rapid expansion of the
production capacity of factories shows counteracting
signals to business.

The latest impact of Coronavirus has fueled the

scenario worsens. Many factories may not survive
without the rescue package of the government, even
though the loan in the name or model of financial
ease will not be a solution. Rather, it will endanger
the existence of business in the near future due
to excessive liability. Streamlining the capacity
of apparel and textile factories is now an utmost
scientific problem to be addressed to make the
business sustainable.

The time dictates to tame the allure of expansion.

Very few companies are performing well despite the
mammoth expansion. Rightsizing of the business is
not merely required to combat the current critical
situation rather it is required even in a plain situation
as a sustainable business and investment strategy.

Expansion trap Figure 1: Rightsizing of the apparel business is not merely

Many factories in some ways have fallen into the
‘capacity expansion trap’ that can even cause the
threat of their existence! The factories could see only
the figure of the total apparel market size around
the globe. They simply calculated that Bangladesh
only contributes to five percent to the global
market share in the apparel sector, so still, an ample
required to combat the current critical situation rather it is
required even in a plain situation as a sustainable business and
investment strategy.
opportunity awaits! This number game made the
factory owners allured to expand more and more
production capacity and manpower as well.
Banks, in particular, helped create a profound hole

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04 15

Cover Story
in the factories. They tempted factory owners, who
were in good business conditions, to borrow and
expand capacity. Many of the factories were seen as
profitable and assumed sustainable when they were
smaller in size and capacity. Those profitable small
factories have fallen in serious trouble because of the
incurring excessive fixed costs. Many factories were
executing orders with loss or no profit just to survive.
Many of them are taking orders in the hope that the
future would be bright!
Remember, the future would be tougher if the
current scenario goes alike. Moreover, many of the
factories failed to pay monthly installments with a
high rate of interest, which could increase liability.
Both borrowers and lenders are now drilling in a
dilemma. Factories are still doing well who did not
borrow from banks even in the current tough time
(before Coronavirus impact).
Even though those who did not borrow from
banks they also fell into the trap of the borrowing
consequences of others. The borrowers from banks
were a bit rampant to increase capacity. Ultimately,
they were compelled to do order with loss due to
feeding their big capacity. The owners who did not
borrow had to take orders with the minimum price
due to the existence of the bank borrowers in the
competition.
In the last 10 years, more than ninety textile and
apparel companies have taken money from the
stock market through IPO and right share either to
expand capacity or to repay banks’ loans. Almost all
the ninety percent companies are incurring losses;
expansion could not help them out. Rather they push
the shareholders in terrible trouble.
Why do companies get tempted with ‘Bad
Expansion’ that eventually turned into ‘Sad
Expansion’!
1) Mathematical fallacy of the ‘advantage from unit
cost reduction’
It is simply a noteworthy idea that an increasing
number of productions may push production costs
downward. This is a common advantage in many
manufacturing operations. At a certain level, the
increase of production lowers the unit cost of a
product, which offers a cost advantage to the total
Fixed Cost per unit
Total fixed cost
Number of units produced
Figure 2: Fixed cost adjustment with an increased number of
unit production.
16
production. The question is how long this advantage
on unit cost continues. Unscrupulous growth of
production capacity may be counterproductive
ultimately.
2) Economies of scale on the expansion of capacity
Unit costs fall as output increases from one stage
to the next stage (here Q to Q2). It continues up to
the level of Q2. The unit costs start to rise above
Q2 on the cost curve. LRAC (Long Run Average
Cost) increases with the increase of investment
and expansion. Here the prior cost advantage turns
into the cost burden of the new expansion and
investment.
Average Cost
LRAC
C
C1
0 Q Q2 Output
Figure 3: Economies of Scale on investment and expansion.
3) Discounted the ‘diminishing marginal return on
expansion’
In the textile and apparel industry, a somehow
variable proportion of the return from an additional
capacity was overlooked when capacity was
increasing. Composite factories are prone to
composite liability. Factories need to be compact
rather than composite in the pattern. A reputed
global case shows that the Boston Market franchise
grew from 20 to 900 stores by 1998. However,
poor sales plagued many individual stores, which
struggled to repay their loans. In 1998, the company
had to close 200 stores. Expansion generally requires
a significant amount of investments that can turn the
business in the loss.
Here the graph depicts the different situation of
investments below:
A) Most conducive stage: More inputs lead to more
positive returns on the investment.
B) Diminishing return stage: Each added input leads
to a decreasing rate of increase as output. It is the
best time to stop expansion somewhere within
this stage.
C) Negative returns stage: The more you expand
the more you get a negative return on the
Number of units produced investment. All the total investment may fall into
losses which were profitable once.
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
 Can we create superior prints
at comparable cost?

PRINT N’ FAST
printing system
enhanced rub fastness

SAFE
*Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods. Not intentionally added

EFFICIENT

-19% -44% -27% -14% -27%

CASE STUDY: Bangladesh customer

The Archroma Way:

IT’S OUR NATURE

www.archroma.com
Cover Story

E
Diminishing
T return on Negative
expansion return on
U Positive
return on expansion
N
expansion
S

Investment and expansion line

Figure 4: Diminishing return on investment and expansion.

4) Illusive perception of demand hype

Say buyer ‘x’ wants to place an order of 1 lac piece

of T-shirt. The buyer knocks five manufacturers to
take an order. Four factories could not take it due to
their existing production load. The fifth manufacturer
took the order. The demand of 1 lac piece had been
improve the efficiency of the supply chain if they
approached to five manufacturers. It would create
add allied and related production units. Those who
80% illusive hopes to increase production order to
had sewing lines only, they invest in knitting; whereas
the rest four manufacturers. Everybody thought-
the knitters invest in dying; and the dyers invest
if they had the capacity, they could make more
in washing and so on. Even some of the factories-
business. Here 20 % real order creates 80% false
built the trims and accessories to help supply chain
desire to the factory leaders whereas true demand is
bolster. Eventually, they did not fetch positive
twenty percent only.
outcomes. The new expansions themselves must
5) Counter resulting from expansion on the supply have their own supply chain. To mitigate delay of
chain ‘on-time receive of accessories’, the company builds
a new factory to produce on its own. The accessories
Some of the expansion decisions were taken to you are producing also require their raw materials.
improve the overall supply chain of the business and The production again suffers due to more supply
proved negative. Companies thought they could chain issues.

Here, we only discuss a few reasons for expansion

Many factories in some ways have
fallen into the ‘capacity expansion
trap’ that can even cause the
threat of their existence! The
factories could see only the figure
of the total apparel market size
around the globe. They simply
calculated that Bangladesh only
contributes to five percent to
the global market share in the
apparel sector, so still, an ample
opportunity awaits! This number
game made the factory owners
allured to expand more and
more production capacity and
manpower as well.
that lead to profit erosion, whereas several reasons
are also liable to profit erosion. Both formal and
informal grounds are available in case of the
expansion and new investment cases. Everything is
not discussed in this article; not even the objective.
There exists logical justification as to why the
rightsizing of business should be embedded as a
business strategy in case of sustainability. Rightsizing
of business connotes the right strategic decision
both in investment security and profitability. Without
proper sizing, the business would continue to
suffer. In an expanded business size, management
sometimes loses control over the affairs. CEOs
often cannot control the mammoth size of factories.
Rightsizing is now a call of the day of the textile and
apparel industry to make the business sustainable.
Factory owners and management should take
decisions both rationally and brutally. (To be
continued…)
(In the next part of the write-up, strategy of business
rightsizing would be elaborated that would depict
and outline a sustainable business model.)

18 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04

 To p S t o r y

Alternative
marketing, a
great way to
gain export (Part-1)

MM Uddin

Alternative market the total country’s export. 4000+ factories and 4

Alternative market means to reach one market
among two or more available possible markets.
If we analyze the data of Bangladesh Bank (BB)
and Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and
Exporters Association (BGMEA), we will see for the
last four decades we have been exporting ready-
made garments only 41+ destinations. There are
200+ countries in this world, so there are huge
opportunities for us to expand our market.
Necessity of alternative market
Last Fiscal Year 2018-19, the Bangladesh RMG
industry exported $34.13 billion, which is 84.21% of
million manpower are working hard to continue the
export growth, but recently the Bangladesh apparel
industry experienced negative growth, whereas we
are perusing an ambitious goal of $50 billion by 2021.
It’s well-defined for the stockholders of the RMG
industry which strategical decision they have made
in 2014 to export target 50 billion dollars that will be
impossible to achieve in 2021.
On the other hand, now we are facing the situation of
the most historical pandemic. It is really hard to say
how much levies, death and financial loss will be bear
by the world and our country. Global buyers have
so far canceled or suspended orders of readymade

Bangladesh's RMG Exports to World, FY 2018-19 & 2019-20 (Value in Million US$) Source: EPB
Month All countries
Woven Growth Knit Growth Total (Woven+Knit) Growth
Year Rate Year Rate Rate

2018/19 2019/20 2018/19 2019/20 2018/19 2019/20

July 1490.62 1632.32 9.51 1527.12 1678.16 9.89 3017.74 3310.48 9.70
August 1331.67 1163.32 -12.64 1385.75 1242.69 -10.32 2717.42 2406.01 -11.46
September 1162.53 1091.70 -6.09 1293.98 1249.37 -3.45 2456.51 2341.07 -4.70
October 1473.01 1151.69 -21.81 1668.41 1368.13 -18.00 3141.42 2519.82 -19.79
November 1422.31 1240.03 -12.82 1430.80 1271.28 -11.15 2853.11 2511.31 -11.98
December 1552.17 1539.16 -0.84 1346.54 1396.17 3.69 2898.71 2935.33 1.26
January 1644.59 1625.00 -1.19 1487.98 1414.22 -4.96 3132.57 3039.22 -2.98
February 1556.41 1505.58 -3.27 1352.46 1278.70 -5.45 2908.87 2784.28 -4.28
Total: 11633.31 10948.80 -5.88 11493.04 10898.72 -5.17 23126.35 21847.52 -5.53

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04 19

To p S t o r y
Reasons of
negative growth
Changes of consumers Higher price competition
buying habit in retail markets
Increasing customized Demand for more
product demand value-added products
Fast fashion
garment products worth US$2.25 billion from
Bangladesh (updated on 24 March).
Many fashion brands have shut their stores in Europe
and North America due to the coronavirus outbreak
which leads to this order cancellation and suspension.
From the buyer’s insider and different analytical
bodies are highlighting the gradual problem like
major retailers’ loss of their sales target due to Brexit,
pandemics Coronavirus, America-China trade war, etc.
But some of the other reasons also leading the
negative growth of the last two years like higher
price competition in retail markets, changes of
consumers buying habits, increasing customized
product demand, fast fashion and demand for more
value-added products. So, in this situation, we have
to change our strategical marketing plan, create a
new alternative market and focus on more alternative
value-added products.
Potentiality of the alternative market
According to the World Trade Statistical Review
2019, which released recently by the World Trade
Organization (WTO), of the global apparel export
market of $421 billion, Bangladesh grabbed $34
billion in 2019, which was $32 billion in 2018. And our
market share is only 8.07%. Bangladesh currently
accounts for 8.07% of the global garment market
and Vietnam has 6.2%.
1.2% reduction in global clothing usage was largely
attributed to the slowdown in Bangladesh, due to
weak product diversity, growing online businesses,
closure of retail sales centers in the western world
20
Steps to mitigate current scenario
Taking Creating a new Focusing on more
strategical alternative alternative value-added
marketing plan market products
and global forecasts.
Bangladesh still 2nd largest exporter around the
world, it is not impossible to contribute double
(16%) in global share, if we make a strong alternative
marketing strategical plan and use advance
technology to catch the biggest market share.
How we can catch the alternative market?
Our competitors are using lots of advanced
technologies for marketing like B2B platform,
artificial intelligence technologies (AIT), social media,
trade shows, decentralization of marketing cells, join
innovation hubs and thirty party sourcing, etc.
B2B Platform: Since technology has dominated all
the aspects of the industry, the B2B world has also
evolved for apparel and fashion industries. There are
a plethora of B2B e-commerce portals available today,
and it has become imperative to get connected with
the right one to have the maximum benefits.
You can easily register yourself on a B2B website
by filling up the mandatory form and enjoy their
massive buyers' and supplier's data. China, USA,
Canada and Europe are known as the primary hub for
online e-commerce markets with the US and Hong
Kong trailing behind. But recently the B2B platform
demand is significantly increasing the traditional and
the nontraditional market place.
Here are 5 lists of the top B2B websites that are
leading the global B2B industry in 2019.
1. Alibaba
2. TradeWheel
3. Amazon
4. HDgate
5. Global source
Here I will describe only on Alibaba as an example
of a B2B platform:
Alibaba: Alibaba Group Holding Limited (also known
as Alibaba Group/Alibaba) is a Chinese multinational
technology company specializing in e-commerce,
retail, internet, and technology. Founded on 4 April
1999 in Hangzhou, Zhejiang, the company provides
consumer-to-consumer (C2C), business-to-consumer
(B2C), and business-to-business (B2B) sales cloud
computing services. It owns and operates a diverse
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
 A game changer
in sustainable
innovation
AVITERA® SE is a range of
award-winning dyes with
sustainability results that exceed
conventional dyes, a true innovation
that reduces water and energy
consumption, while increasing
productivity through shorter
production time.

www.huntsman.com/textile_effects

AVITERA® SE
 To p S t o r y

day different buyers created

Alibaba.com Data 300000+ orders for suppliers.
200+ countries exposer means
150 million+ 200+ 200+ suppliers can display their
Registered Members Countries / Regions facilities for the buyers so that the
16 Real-Time Chat buyer can be motivated to work
10 million+ with the factories.
Active Buyers Translation Languages

16 real-time chat translation

170 million+ 40+ languages mean that when you
Products Industries communicate with any buyers
300,000+ 5,900+ whose language is not the same
Active Inquiries Per Day Product Categories to you this translator helps you
to translate the language to
Source: Alibaba Group's public report on "cross-border trade development of SMEs, 2018" your language so that you can

understand the message properly.

array of businesses around the world in numerous
sectors, and is named as one of the world's most
admired companies by Fortune.
At closing time on the date of its initial public
offering (IPO) – US$25 billion, the world's highest
in history – 19 September 2014, Alibaba's market
value was US$231 billion. It is one of the top 10 most
valuable and is the 59th biggest public companies
in the world by the Global 2000 list. In January
2018, Alibaba became the second Asian company
to break the US$500 billion valuation mark, after its
competitor Tencent. As of 2018, Alibaba has the 9th
highest global brand valuation.
Alibaba B2B platform is accommodating huge data
for apparel manufacturers like 160+ million registered
members which help to build up a business
community. 10+ million active buyers who always use
to make an order through Alibaba.com.
The order size could be thousand pcs to million
pcs. Especially the medium and small entrepreneurs
usually use this type of platform to generate the
order. 170+ million products where you can source
your desire products with very competitive prices
from any country.
300,000+ active inquiries per day mean that every
Professional
Web Design Unlimited
3rd Party
Verification Product Posting
Product
Mobile
Showcases
App
Also, 40+ industries and 5900+
product categories are in the same place.
Alibaba is offering the most exciting 8 benefits of
the manufacturers for which will help to grow the
business model and it will reach the targeted buyers.
Professional web design where a manufacturer can
illustrate the company’s all facilities. Location, product
range, production capacity, certifications and so on.
A company can post unlimited products which one
the manufacturers want to display to the customers.
Alibaba offered a product showcases where you
can exhibit the most prominent products of your
company or best-selling products.
Buying requests will be listed on top and tagged as
urgent top suppliers will quote you much quicker
than other buyers’ suppliers will quotes suppliers will
your buying request more seriously.
The trade manager ensures your 100% payment
guarantee. Biz Trends is a real-time statistical
analysis tool developed by Alibaba.com to help you
analyze your online performance, better understand
buyers' behavior and maximize your return-on-investment.
The mobile app is a leading wholesale mobile
marketplace for global trade. Buy products from
suppliers around the world, all from the convenience
of your mobile device. Buyers on the Alibaba.com
app can follow their favorite suppliers to stay up to
date on new products and promotions.
A Verified Supplier is a supplier for whom certain
aspects of its company profile, management system,
production capabilities, and product and process
controls have been assessed, certified and/or
inspected by independent third-party institutions via
online and offline means.

In the next part, I will depict other advanced

Biz technologies for alternative marketing.
Buying
Trends Trade
Request (To be continued…)
Manager

22 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04


COVID-19: Impact on global
garment supply chains
Textile Today Analysis
A new report lists the fashion
brands which have reportedly
canceled or postponed the
most orders from suppliers in
Bangladesh where more than a
million garment workers have
now lost their jobs because of the
coronavirus pandemic.
Primark has canceled or delayed
by far the most orders, with a
total of US$273 million, followed by
C&A (US$166m) and Inditex/Zara
(US$109m), according to the report
by the Centre for Global Workers'
Rights, part of Penn State University's
College of the Liberal Arts.
Mothercare (with US$62m of
canceled or delayed orders),
Bestseller (US$59m), Kiabi
(US$57m), VF Corp (US$56m),
Tesco (US$50m), M&S (US$39m),
Kohls (US$39m), Walmart
(US$38m), LPP (US$37m), Target
(US$24m), and J C Penney
(US$23m) are also listed.
Fashion giants H&M and PVH -
which both source substantial
amounts of clothing from
Bangladesh - were not included
in the list as they have agreed to
pay factories for canceled orders
which were already in production.
The figures include both orders
which were already being
processed, totaling US$1.45 billion,
and orders scheduled for later
in the year, which are valued at
US$1.69 billion, making a total of
US$3.14 billion.
A Primark spokesperson said,
"Every store in every country in
which we operate is now closed.
We are losing sales of £650 million
a month as a result. We have
therefore been left with no option.”
"We have large quantities of
existing stock in our stores, our
depots and in transit, that is paid
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
In Focus
Canceled and delayed orders, in US$ millions
(Source: Centre for Global Workers' Rights)
CGWR/WRC's calculations based on BGMEA data as of March 29, 2020
600 $550
500
400
300 $273
200 $166
$109
100 $59 $57 $62 $56
$23 $39 $37 $39 $24 $38
0
Bestseller
JCPenney
Kiabi
Kohls
C&A
Inditex/Zara
LPP
M&S
Mothercase
Primark
Target
Tesco
VF
Walmart
for. If we had not taken this action, commitments and take delivery
we would be taking delivery of of garments already made and
stock that we simply could not those in production. We are aware
sell. This has been unprecedented of our responsibility and we are
action for unprecedented and in close dialogue with each of our
frankly unimaginable times.” suppliers on how to handle the
current crisis.”
"We at Primark have worked
alongside so many of our "We have to get through this
suppliers for many years and value situation by collaboration and in
our relationships enormously. partnerships with our suppliers.
We recognize and are deeply We want to support our suppliers
saddened that this will affect our and we are still placing orders for
entire supply chain.” the coming seasons.”
"We are in close and regular The Centre for Global Workers'
contact with our suppliers Rights says it calculated the
and very much hope that our figures based on data from
normal trading relationships can the Bangladesh Garment
resume as soon as possible. In Manufacturers and Exporters
the meantime, we are urging, Association (BGMEA) - although
in the strongest possible terms, the BGMEA denied providing
governments in the countries from researchers with the information.
which we source our products, to
The report, entitled Abandoned?
take action in support of their local
The Impact of COVID-19 on
businesses and workers, in the
Workers and Businesses at the
same way, that the UK and many
Bottom of Global Garment Supply
European governments are doing."
Chains was written by the center's
However, Bestseller CFO Thomas director Mark Anner, in association
Børglum pledged, “We will do with the Worker Rights Consortium.
our utmost to live up to our
23
In Focus
"The global COVID-19 pandemic
has had a devastating impact on
global garment supply chains, and
the situation will get far worse
before it gets better," he wrote.
"As clothing outlets have been
shut by lockdowns in developed
market economies, sinking
demand for apparel, brands and
retailers have moved quickly to
cancel or postpone production
orders – refusing, in many cases,
to pay for clothing their supplier
factories have already produced.
"The result has been the partial or
complete shutdown of thousands
of factories in producing countries.
As a result, millions of factory
workers have been sent home,
often without legally-mandated
pay or severance."
The report drew on an online
survey of 316 factory owners
in Bangladesh. The authors say
the size of the sample, out of
IKEA partnered with Alibaba to explore
the Chinese e-commerce market
Rahbar Hossain
IKEA and Alibaba announced the
opening of the IKEA virtual store
on Alibaba’s e-commerce platform
Tmall recently. The virtual IKEA
store on Tmall will offer Chinese
consumers access to around 3,800
IKEA products.
This is the first time IKEA will offer
its products and home furnishing
solutions through an external
e-commerce platform.
The new Tmall store will initially
serve customers in Shanghai,
Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Anhui to
bring it to other cities later. Ikea
and Tmall will also look into other
possible collaborations including
looking into future trends for life at
the home of Chinese consumers.
In recent years, IKEA has been
testing new formats and solutions
in various markets around the
world to increase accessibility to
24
Bangladesh's 2,000 factory
owners, gives them a confidence
level of 95% in its findings.
Some 45.8% reported that 'a lot'
to 'most' of their nearly or entirely
completed orders had been canceled
by buyers, and that 5.9% had had all
of these orders canceled.
The report said that buyers had a
contractual obligation to pay for
these orders but were "making
dubious use of general force majeure
clauses to justify their violations of
the terms of the contract".
The survey found that 72.1% of
buyers had refused to pay for raw
materials already purchased to
complete their orders and that
91.3 percent had refused to pay for
production costs.
And 98.1% of buyers were refusing
to contribute to the cost of
reduced wages paid to lay off
workers, to which they were legally
entitled, and 97.3 percent had refused
Figure: IKEA and Alibaba announced the
opening of the IKEA virtual store on Alibaba’s
e-commerce platform Tmall recently.
IKEA, including the opening of
smaller shops, planning studios,
IKEA apps, and new service
solutions, among others.
“We are continuously exploring
how we can make IKEA home
furnishing solutions and range
more accessible as we want to
Bangladesh Textile Today |
E - c o m m e r c e To d a y
to contribute to severance pay.
As a result of order cancellations
and lack of payment, 58 percent of
factories surveyed had shut down
most or all of their operations.
Nearly all have subsequently
closed anyway in Bangladesh
because of the lockdown imposed
by the government.
The report concludes that brands
and retailers should find ways
to access credit or government
support to cover their obligations
to supplier factories to avoid
millions of workers being sent
home with no money to "put
food on the table, let alone cover
medical expenses".
"Going forward it is necessary
to re-think how the industry does
business. Purchasing practices must be
reformed for social and environmental
sustainability," it continues.
(The report was published in Ecotextile
News. Written by Simon Glover)
deliver to the IKEA vision of
creating a better everyday life
for many people. The launch of
the virtual store at Tmall is truly
exciting and we believe that it
will complement existing sales
channels such as our IKEA stores
and e-commerce as we come
closer to our customers in China,”
says Tolga Öncü, Retail Operations
Manager, Ingka Group.
IKEA entered the Chinese market
in 1998 and has 30 IKEA stores
across the country, besides
e-commerce on IKEA.cn. In
addition to opening up on Tmall,
IKEA Retail China continues to
invest in existing and new stores,
expanding fast by opening more
physical stores and exploring new
store formats such as city shops,
planning studios and smaller stores,
all to create a better everyday life
for the many people in China.
Volume 13, Issue 04
ASUDEL
Inverse process on continuous
Application for wash down effects

Possibility of dyeing extremely deep shades.

Wide range of colours.
No tailing problems neither different affinity
of the dyestuffs on combinations.
Dyestuffs are easily combinable among them.
Washing off effect and washing fastness
increased.
Friendly process for shading in order to adjust
final shades when necessary.
If there is any issue on final shade, it is easily
stripped off.
Machinery remains very clean when
compared with pigments.

WE ARE WITH

APLICACIÓN Y SUMINISTROS TEXTILES, S.A. Red Crescent Borak Tower, 37/3/A, Eskaton
Garden, Ground Floor, 71-72, Old Elephant
Av. Cami Reial, 13-15, 08184 Palau-solità i Plegamans, Road, Ramna, Dhaka – 1000
BARCELONA (SPAIN), Telephone: 34 93 864 71 11 Tel : +88 02 9330763, +880258314236
Fax : 34 93 864 51 04 Fax : +880-2-9332165
E-mail : chemicals@asutex.es E-mail : info@asutexbd.com

w w w . a s u t e x . e s
Te x t i l e W o r l d
Stimulus packages of major global
apparel producing countries to
face corona fallout
Textile Today Analysis
The pandemic corona virus has
been taking toll on the economies
of different countries as it has
impacted the production, supply
chain and jobs everywhere. Different
governments have also already
taken different fiscal measures to
offset the fallout of the corona virus
in their respective economy.
It is expected that the announced
financial stimulus packages by
the governments will create more
financial mobilization so that the
hit of corona is not felt.
Bangladesh
Bangladesh government has also
announced its stimulus package
of Tk5,000crore for all export-
oriented sectors to face the fallout
of the coronavirus. The fund will
be mainly used to pay the wages
of workers of the export oriented
companies and factories.
Since, the garment sector is the
main player in export, this sector
will mainly enjoy the benefits.
Currently, garment sector’s
contribution in the national export
is more than 84 percent in a year.
Other garment producing countries
or competitors of Bangladesh in
the global apparel markets have
also announced financial stimulus
packages for maintaining vibrancy in
their economies.
For instance, the major textile and
apparel exporting countries like
India, Pakistan, China, Indonesia
and Vietnam announced the
stimulus packages for revival of
their export. Similarly European
Central Bank announced a
$700billion financial package
for its members and the Trump
Administration also announced
a $2 trillion financial package to
26
offset the fallout of corona.
India
Indian government announced an
economic stimulus package worth
1.7 trillion rupees or ($22.5 billion)
in aid designed to help low-income
families with direct cash transfers,
food assistance, employment aid
to farmers, and health insurance.
Shortly thereafter, the Reserve
Bank of India slashed interest
rates in an effort to counter the
economic fallout.
In the organized sector, the
government will pay Provident
Fund contributions for both the
employee and employer for the next
three months for small companies
that have up to 100 employees and
90 percent of whom earn less than
₹15,000 per month.
Apparel exporters on 2 April
sought Prime Minister Narendra
Modi’s intervention in providing a
specific financial stimulus package
to protect the industry and its
workers who are struggling to
deal with the impact of COVID-19
pandemic.
12.9 million
Indian apparel workers, will
‘die a slow death’ if govt.
does not announce a fiscal
stimulus package
Bangladesh Textile Today |
In a letter to the Prime Minister,
Apparel Export Promotion Council
(AEPC) Chairman A Sakthivel
said that unless the government
immediately announces a fiscal
stimulus package, the apparel export
sector, which employs 12.9 million
workers, will ‘die a slow death’.
China
China has rolled out new measures
to support its economy from the
coronavirus pandemic, including
an additional central bank credit
line of 1 trillion yuan (US$140
billion) to small lenders, different
media reported.
The initiative ranged from new
bond quotas for local authorities
to income support for poor Chinese.
Moreover, China’s State Council
has authorized new bonds to
fund infrastructure, additional
subsidies and tax breaks for the
car industry, and cheap loans for
small businesses.
Vietnam
Vietnam plans to spend 27
trillion dong ($1.16 billion) to help
businesses cope with the coronavirus
epidemic and help the economy
stick to its 6.8% growth target this
year, according to Reuters.
The plan includes tax break,
delayed tax payments and
reduction in land lease fee. The
government also aimed to speed
up state spending on infrastructure,
Reuters also reported.
To reduce the impact caused by
COVID-19, Vietnam’s central bank is
now offering interest rate cuts for firms.
According to a statement from
the State Bank of Vietnam, the
regulator will cut its refinance rate
Volume 13, Issue 04

from 6% to 5% starting from March
17th. The regulator has also lowered
its discount rate and repurchase rate
from 4% percent to 3.5%.
The overnight lending rate in the
inter-bank market is reduced to 6%
vs 7%, according to the statement.
The regulator also cut its interest-
rate cap for dong deposits with
maturities of one month to less
than 6 months to 4.75% from 5%,
while ordering banks to lower the
maximum dong lending interest rate
for short-term loans to 5.5% from 6%.
Indonesia
On March 13, 2020, the Indonesian
government issued its second
emergency stimulus package
worth US$8 billion.
The package provides a range of
fiscal and non-fiscal incentives in
addition to a special stimulus for
small and medium-sized (SMEs)
businesses. The fiscal incentives
are primarily for the manufacturing
sector and include a reduction in
corporate and personal income tax
Non-fiscal incentives: On March 13,
2020, the Indonesian government
issued its second emergency
stimulus package worth US$8
billion as it seeks to protect the
economy from the impact of the
coronavirus (COVID-19) outbreak.
The latest package represents 0.8
percent of the GDP and provides
a range of fiscal and non-fiscal
incentives in addition to a special
stimulus for small and medium-
sized businesses.
Earlier, Indonesian government
announced its first stimulus
package worth $725 million in
February 2020, which provided
fiscal incentives to support the
country’s tourism, aviation, and
property industries. The package
also allocated US$324 million for
low-income households.
Pakistan
Pakistan also came up with the
stimulus package to face the
challenges of Corona fallout. The
Pakistan government gave the
sector specific package. Such as:
Labor: The premier announced
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
that a sum of Rs200 billion was
being allotted for laborers across
the country. He further said that
his government was coordinating
with provinces to convince
businesses not to lay off laborers,
The Dawn reported.
Industries and export: While
saying that the export industry
was the most affected industry
in the country, the Prime Minister
of Pakistan announced that the
export sector would be given tax
refunds of Rs100 billion immediately.
Their interest payments would be
deferred as well.
6% to 5%
refinance rate cut
4% to 3.5%
discount rate and
repurchase rate cut
Small and medium industries and
agriculture: A further Rs100 billion
are to be earmarked for small
and medium industries and the
agriculture sector. Their interest
payments will be deferred and
they will also be able to enjoy
concessional loans at low interest
rates. Farmers across the country
will also enjoy lower costs of input.
Low-income families: The premier
announced that a package of
Rs150 billion would be allocated
for low-income families and would
be distributed among them over
a period of 4 months. The prime
minister also promised that these
families would be given cash
payments of Rs3,000 each month.
Te x t i l e W o r l d
Sanctuaries: The prime minister
also announced an expansion
of sanctuaries to accommodate
more people. He pointed out that
the existing sanctuaries were
being overwhelmed in the wake
of the outbreak and therefore a
mechanism for medical screening
for new entrants was also being
constituted.
Utility stores: A sum of Rs50
billion is to be earmarked for
utility stores to ensure the
constant availability of food and
other necessities. For wheat
procurement, the prime minister
announced that the government
was budgeting Rs280 billion
so that wheat farmers do not
face cash flow issues during the
outbreak.
Petrol prices: The prime minister
also announced a reduction of
Rs15 in the prices of petrol, diesel,
light diesel and kerosene. The
premier pointed out that this was
set to impact the government by
up to Rs75 billion.
Electricity and gas: The prime
minister announced that
consumers who were utilizing
300 units of electricity would
be allowed to pay their bills in
installments over the next three
months. This would mean that 81
per cent of consumers who incur a
bill of around Rs2000 each month
would also be able to pay the
installments over three months.
Medical workers: The prime
minister announced that a sum of
Rs50 billion was being set aside
for the purchase of personal
protective equipment for health
workers. He also assured them
of the government’s full support
in their fight against the novel
coronavirus.
Food items: The premier
announced that taxes on food
items such as sugar, wheat and
pulses would either be reduced or
eradicated completely.
Emergency: The premier also
stated that a sum of Rs100
billion was budgeted in case of
emergencies, The Dawn also said.
27
Cover Plus
BGMEA’s call to
global buyers: How
are industry people
reacting?
We are asking for what is due to us. We are not begging.
Textile Today Analysis
Global buyers have canceled and
suspended orders of readymade
garment (RMG) products worth
more than US$2.5 billion from
Bangladesh till 25 March. They are
not only canceling and suspending
orders but also not taking ready goods.
Many fashion brands have shut
their stores in Europe and North
America due to the coronavirus
outbreak which leads to this order
cancellation and suspension,
which is affecting almost all the
workers. BGMEA President Rubana
Huq sent a letter to the global
buyers urging them not to cancel
or hold orders till July so that
workers could get their wages
and allowances during two Eid
festivals. However, no buyers are
responding rather avoiding.
In the meantime, on 25 March,
Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina
announced a bailout/stimulus
package of Tk 5,000 crore for
export-oriented industries to fight
the impact of coronavirus on the
country’s economy, which brought a
ray of hope for the textile and apparel
factory owners as well as workers.
Besides, Bangladesh Bank has
undertaken a business-friendly
initiative, announcing that no one
will be considered a loan defaulter
28
till June.
However, as a partner of RMG
business brands and buyers should
come forward to save the workers
too. A few days ago, before the
government announcement,
BGMEA President Rubana Huq
published a post in her LinkedIn
page highlighting the issue.
She wrote, “While the Covid19
wreaks havoc globally, the fate of
our industry and our workers has
ended up being uncertain. With
Brands handing out cancellations
and deferments, we have no idea
what tomorrow holds.”
“Brands who were partners
last month have all turned into
strangers, unable to fathom our
exposure to an existential crisis of
handling the wages of 4.1 million
workers. Without orders and with
empty production spaces, all
the workers run a risk of being
unemployed for a long time to
come,” she wrote.
She also wrote, “For us, it comes
down to a level of bare minimum
survival mode, while the western
world still has the privilege
of having bailouts from their
privileged governments. On that
consideration, we call upon the
Bangladesh Textile Today |
international community to surface
with a renewed pledge to support
the workers of Bangladesh, if not
just the businesses.”
Reaction from business people
National and international business
people measured her demands in
different ways.
“Let the workers go now. Deal
with the buyers later. Every day
delay is putting their lives further
in danger. Bangladesh Bank
is already saying they will not
allow classifying as bad loans.
There should also be a financial
package for workers for at least
the next 3 months. Buyers will
only be back when demand is
back. They’re busy saving the
lives of their people right now.
We should be worried about the
health and safety of our workers.
That was the lesson of Tazreen
Fire and Rana Plaza. The industry
will be restructured in any case,”
commented Khurrum Siddique,
Managing Director, Simco Group.
“You are perhaps raising a
pertinent issue, but I guess brands
and buyers alone can’t help,
everyone probably needs to fight
out their own survival battles.
We hope humanity struggles
Volume 13, Issue 04
Innovation in
Textile Chemicals
for a Sustainable society

Surface Science is
our core technology
having 78 years
history in chemicals
from Japan

Liaison office:
Hong Kong Nicca Chemical Ltd.
Suvastu Suraiya Trade Center, 3A (3rd Floor)
57 Kamal Ataturk Avenue, Block-B
Banani, Dhaka-1213, Bangladesh
Tel: +880255033391
House# 744 & 746, Road# 10, Avenue# 04,
DOHS Mirpur, Mirpur, Dhaka- 1216, Bangladesh.
Phone: +880 258071173
Mobile: +880 1730 712509
E-mail: moid@emmtex-afc.com

Figure: Bangladesh’s garments
factory full-filled its huge compliance
requirements investing a big amount of
money only to produce better products in
a better work environment.
out through this crisis as early
as possible, as less damage as
possible. But the bigger call
will have to be taken by big
corporations, governments and
philanthropists of the world,”
Sanjay Chawla, Editor in Chief and
Publisher, Inside Fashion & Dir.
Fashion United.
“But I am sure, this crisis would
be a great learning curve for all,
the world will have to realign to
the new realities and perhaps new
collaborations,” he added.
Naim Chowdhury, Director at
Monarchy Fashions Ltd said, “All
customers/brands should come
forward and let factories continue
to cut the fabric which is already in
store. They should also let factories to
clear/import the fabric and continue
to sew and keep them ready. Our
RMG sector has been listening to
the brands for long and they must
consider the situation since two Eid
festivals are approaching.”
“The Brands should stand with
the partner vendors in difficult
times. In goods times, vendors
30
are considered ‘Partners’ in
sharing benefits. In crunch
time, this partnership should be
retained. Brands have been urging
investments from manufacturers in
compliance areas which according
to their version, is focused on the
wellbeing of workers. Now it’s
their turn, to be honest, and make
a contribution to retain jobs of
factory workers,” said S. Khalid,
Merchandise Manager, Indus Apparel.
“The most alarming part is we
don’t know how to act during this
crucial moment. Some buyers
are asking to hold cutting, some
are claiming discounts, some
aren’t receiving goods even
after we’ve sent the goods to
Chattogram port! Apart from
financial risk, we’re facing the risk
of contamination as well. I think
some concrete decisions should
come from brands by next couple
of days, and accordingly, we and
our platform BGMEA need to act,”
Syed Fardeen Hashemy, Executive
Director, Radisson Casual Wear Ltd.
Some mentioned Dr. Rubana’s
urging as begging. In reply,
BGMEA President said, “We are
asking for what is due to us. We
are not begging. Our ready goods
which were to be taken are not
being taken. And please don’t
judge the industry situation by the
minority status, there are hundreds
of businesses which are small
and medium being negatively
impacted through this.”
She also urged, “During these
times of trouble, stay by the side
of your people. Let inhumanity
not touch any of us. The scale of
judgment can wait. You can judge
later. Think about how you can
support with helping our voice to
reach the buyers.”
Mritunjoy Kumer Chakraborty,
General Manager (HR, Admin, and
Compliance), KAC Fashion Wear
Ltd, commented, “We are passing
crucial time, please again request
buyers to take prepared garments
and withdraw order cancellation.
Since 2014 our garments
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Cover Plus
factory full filled their compliance
requirements, the maximum factory
invested lots of amounts. 42 lac
workers are involved in this sector. The
factory could not effort this burden.”
BGMEA’s initiatives regarding
COVID 19
The new generation of BGMEA
came forward with Manush
Manusher Jonno Foundation to help
the country by making free PPE
suits for health workers and support
workers to face the COVID-19
outbreak. With leading co-ordination
from Zarin Rashid of TRZ Group
and Navidul-Huq of Mohammadi
Group; already a prototype has
been developed and spec and CAD
have been arranged to closest WHO
standard for mass production.
“As there is a huge shortage of
PPE suits we all have to come
together and help the country by
making free PPE suits for health
workers and support workers to
face the COVID-19 outbreak. We
have already developed a spec
and CAD-based on closest to
WHO standards. Any waterproof
fabric like Taffeta can be used. As
long as the fabric is waterproof it
will help,” said BGMEA.
BGMEA also urged:
1. Please let us know if you will be
able to stitch some of these PPE
garments
2. If you already have waterproof
fabric available you can use that
3. If you want to donate leftover
waterproof taffeta fabric please
let us know
4. We will also need Nylon Zippers
(Number 3 or 5, 68-70cm length)
5. We need Velcrow Tape
Recently Rubana Huq said, "We
need to be safe and then operate.
If situation improves, Insha Allah
we will open the factories, when
the time is right. This virus has
made us all helpless and we
have no control over our destiny.
Situation is changing moment to
moment."
Volume 13, Issue 04

Sustainable
innovations are
coming to textiles
Megan Ray Nichols, STEM Writer
The movement towards sustainability is an essential
shift that’s affecting all industries. The textile sector,
in particular, involves the frequent use of materials
that are not eco-friendly and a production process
that releases harmful emissions. However, with
growing consumer demand for environmentally
conscious operations and products, textile businesses
will start to turn towards more green options.
While cotton is abundant and versatile, it requires
several resources for production. Other materials,
like nylon, spandex or polyester, are harmful due to
their petroleum bases. New advancements, however,
involve less destructive means of production and
will ultimately make products that offer a better
relationship with the environment.
Hemp
One innovation that’s becoming widely popular is
hemp. This plant is extremely versatile and can be an
ingredient in many things, such as medicine, textiles,
food and biofuel. For textiles, the fibers of the plant
are the key, as they’re durable and resourceful.
One of the production benefits is that hemp grows
Figure 1: Fiber produced from hemp is durable and resourceful.
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
Sustainable Innovations
quickly. If manufacturers choose to invest in hemp
production, they can harvest large amounts without
having to worry about it growing back slowly. It also
doesn’t require significant amounts of nutrients. For
consumers, this solution will make for a breathable
fabric that will have a more sustainable and eco-
friendly impact.
Coffee grounds
Every year, more than 23 million tons of coffee waste
gets created, with grounds making up a significant
portion. With textiles, however, this waste can see
a new purpose. The fibers of coffee grounds offer
versatile options for clothing, working as sportswear,
shoes, bags and more.
Coffee grounds are common waste products, so
manufacturers will have an easy and cost-effective
time acquiring it. The production entails processing
coffee alongside a polymer to create better cohesion
between the materials. This means of operation
offers a circular economy. When manufacturers reuse
the grounds, production becomes an eco-friendly
cycle — cutting down on waste output.
Figure 2: The fibers of coffee grounds offer versatile options
for clothing, working as sportswear, shoes, bags and more.
31
Sustainable Innovations
Lotus
Eastern countries have used lotus fibers for textiles
and other products for centuries. However, lotus
production has been slow to impact western
countries. As it grows, manufacturers can invest in a
new eco-friendly fiber that will eventually become a
unique feature across the globe.
Many products that come from lotus fibers are
stain-resistant, which will be an appealing draw
for many consumers. It’s breathable and soft, too.
The fibers come from the stems of the plant, and,
after extraction, companies can weave them into
textiles. As lotus becomes more popular, experts
and influencers will most likely want to factor it into
creating a fashion story — a newer textile that’s
sustainable will instantly pick up attention.
Pineapple
Pineapple leaves have fibers that are useful for
textiles, too. The leaves have some uses for medical
treatments and healing, alongside textiles. Using
them instead of throwing them away during
production will help manufacturers profit from each
part of the fruit.
During the process, biomass forms, which farmers
and agriculture workers can use for their lands,
making it a circular economy.
One specific company that is working with pineapple
is Piñatex. The developer, Dr. Carmen Hijosa, created
a sustainable way to use the leaves. With the fibers, she
designed a company that promotes and sells various
eco-friendly textiles. These products offer consumers a
beneficial way to keep the recycling chain going.
Banana
Another fruit that offers sustainable fibers is the
banana, specifically, the tree’s stem. As one of the
most durable natural resources, the fibers provide
a long-lasting option for textiles. Production will
benefit from it since it will add to the supply chain’s
Figure 3: As one of the most durable natural resources, the
fibers provide a long-lasting option for textiles.
32
options and resources — just as using every part of
the pineapple does.
As a biodegradable resource, the banana fibers
will give back to the environment instead of harming
ecosystems as current materials do, like acrylic or
polyester. Consumers will reduce their footprint as they
invest in the products that are comfortable and impactful.
Kevlar
Part of sustainability means using materials during
production that will last a while. The continually
diminishing shelf-life of textiles creates significant
amounts of waste every year. Therefore, creating
products that have enhanced durability, such as
kevlar, is an essential responsibility.
This material is common for police officers that are in
high-risk sectors. Kevlar vests offer bullet resistance
that can save lives. Afterward, however, they may
end up in a landfill if they don’t have reusability.
Newer developers are looking into ways to create
an environmentally-friendly plastic that mimics the
capabilities of Kevlar, changing the way companies
make bulletproof textiles.
Nomex
Nomex is what firefighters wear in their clothes.
During a fire, this material provides heat and
flame resistance. The textile reacts to extreme
temperatures and will capture some of that energy
into the fabric. In a matter of seconds, this material
can become life-saving.
Similarly, to Kevlar, Nomex typically has a longer
shelf-life than most textiles. However, it can also
become more sustainable. Their end-of-life still
impacts overall waste output, so finding out how to
maximize shelf-life or incorporate biodegradable
materials will help. Luckily, Nomex has a high value,
so they will most likely get reused.
Technology and the future of textiles
One factor that propels innovation, manufacturing
and connection to consumers is technology.
Throughout each of these examples, technology will
provide better means of production and increased
resources. However, it will also offer new features for
textiles in the future.
Some clothes already have temperature regulating
properties. If someone is cold, the gear can help
them feel warm — and vice versa. Some things that
might integrate into textiles going forward could
be health monitoring, means of communication
and various sensors. Beyond integrations, though,
technology will improve sustainability, too. With its
vast reach, the possibilities are endless.
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04

BTT Interview
Bangladesh, the second-largest
apparel producer after China, is
set to lose roughly US $ 6 billion
in export revenue this financial
year amid cancellations from
some of the world’s largest
brands and retailers. Garment
exports accounted for US$ 34.12
billion or 84 percent of the
country’s overall exports of US$
40.53 billion, in the fiscal year
ended June 30, 2019.
Mohammad Hatem, Vice
President, Bangladesh Knitwear
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BKMEA) and
Managing Director of MB Knit
Fashion Ltd recently shared his
insights on the recent grim turn of
global events due to the COVID-19
outbreak.
Textile Today: As garments and
textile industry is the backbone
of the country’s economy, in
this extraordinary situation what
measures should be taken by the
associations like BKMEA, BGMEA
and the government to protect
the industry in the long run?
Mohammad Hatem: In this
unprecedented global crisis
34
 should
Govt
come up
with more
stimulus to
save textile
and apparel
sector
Mohammad Hatem
1st Vice President, BKMEA
Managing Director, MB Knit Fashion Ltd.
scenario, ensuring the workers'
livelihood comes first along with
it the apparel industry. To that
holistically we need policy support
the Bangladesh government,
for example, Bangladesh Bank
announced some policy to support
the sector, which is welcoming.
However, this is not enough. The
government should come up
with more stimulus to save the
country’s biggest export sector.
Textile Today: The World economy
is shaking for Coronavirus
COVID-19 pandemic, already more
than $2 bn orders of Bangladesh
RMG has been canceled. How
much this Corona-impact will be
longer, what do you think?
Mohammad Hatem: Bangladesh
Garment Manufacturers and
Exporters Association (BGMEA)
and Bangladesh Knitwear
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BKMEA) members’
factories faced the order
cancellations. BGMEA and
BKMEA’s member factories have
faced order cancellations of almost
$6 billion. Only our member
factories have lost almost $3
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Exclusive Interview
billion worth of orders due to the
crisis.
For the next summer season, most
of the orders were canceled or put
on hold, which made exporters
worried about the future of their
workers’ jobs as they could not
run the factories unless there are
enough work orders. Suspended
orders will eventually get canceled.
All these orders were placed for
summer and it takes three months
to get these delivered. If they are
not taking supplies now, they will
not take it when the summer is
over.
There is no doubt that this blow
will leave a lasting impact in
Bangladesh textile and apparel
industry. Keep that in mind that
it will not be over in a couple of
months. To overcome this crisis, as
I said earlier, we need to overhaul
our total outlook and future
mindset to move forward.
Textile Today: How can we build
a self-sufficient industry, if we
consider this current experience?
Mohammad Hatem: Bangladesh
Garment Manufacturers and
Volume 13, Issue 04
Exclusive Interview

Exporters Association (BGMEA) and BKMEA, and

stakeholders need to take a life lesson and should
diversify the apparel products basket. Most importantly
diversifying the export market to sustain the business.

The lesson we have learned amidst of COVID-19

outbreak that the majority of raw materials like fibers,
machinery, accessories, etc. were imported from China
which stopped due to the outbreak of the virus. So, in
the future, we have to develop in this area so that we
can source raw materials locally to gain self-sufficiency
and overcome any future threats.

Textile Today: The way we got strong in knitting and

denim sector backward linkage, how it can be done for
other sectors?

Mohammad Hatem: Look the manmade fibers and

woven fabric development need huge investment. And
frankly speaking with a two-digit interest rate from
banks and other obstacles in the business, RMG people
cannot go for this investment.

And to develop these areas backward linkage RMG

entrepreneurs need to overcome all these obstacles. We
need more policy support and foreign investments to
develop these sectors.
OPEN UP NEW WORLDS
Textile Today: How do you evaluate the government THE PRISMA GENERATION
declared stimulus package of Tk5,000 crore?

Mohammad Hatem: First of all, I am expressing earnest

appreciation for the Prime Minister’s announcement of
Tk 5,000 crore stimulus package for export-oriented
industries to mitigate the impact of coronavirus on the A world of sensors – first time ever.
country’s economy. But the package will be given as a
loan with a payable interest service charge. As it is given Four sensor technologies interact intelligently and
as a loan so that we are worried about its effectivity in ensure unprecedented fault visibility and data quality.
the RMG industry. YarnMaster PRISMA combines new and established
sensor technologies for the first time in one device. This
Any percentage of interest or service charge is a
world first sets standards and increases productivity and
gigantic burden for the factory owners. So, we urge the
efficiency.
government to give the package without any interested
string attached with long term payable capability. Only
then it will be a milestone package for the apparel
industry to bounce back stronger than before and
remove the worries of the apparel manufacturers. www.loepfe.com
Textile Today: You said that ‘We need more policy
support and foreign investments to develop RMG
sector’. What type of policy support are you seeking,
and how Bangladesh can attract more foreign
investment?

Mohammad Hatem: To attract more robust foreign

investments the government needs to relax the rules
in economic zones to ensure investments from the
foreigners. We must ensure a non-stop supply of gas
and electricity, hassle-free port services, improved roads,
etc., declaring incentive packages for investors to ensure
an investment-friendly atmosphere. Otherwise, foreign
investors will not feel motivated to come to Bangladesh
and invest.
Featured Story

The ways to be
productive while you
working from home
due to coronavirus
Naijur Rahman
Efficiency and Productivity Improvement Consultant|
Certified Lean Six Sigma Coach | Life Coach| CEO, Mind Works

Almost all the entire earthmen

have been advised for self-
isolation ‘Remain at your home. Do
not go to work, school, restaurant
or public areas. Separate yourself
from other people. Stay in a well-
ventilated room with a window to
the outside that can be opened
but Keep the door closed. Many
areas, offices, schools have locked
down and companies like JP
Morgan, Twitter advised their
people to work from home. In
Bangladesh, some companies also
have started the same practice
and many companies have started
planning to advise their staff to Figure 1: Having a dedicated workplace at home with necessary gadgets, internet, tools,
etc. is essential in this troubled time. Courtesy: remote-how.com
work from home.
bottles, etc. It will give you sleeping dress, etc. The casual
For some workers, this, of course,
an office feeling. Find a well- mood does not give you a fully
is not an option, but for those who
lighted place preferable near to activated office mind. Get the
might find themselves at home for
the window with some indoor proper dressed like office during
an extended period, what is the
plants surrounded. An office work from home. The dress may
best way to maximize productivity,
with a view sounds like a recipe not be suited, at least a smart
maintain good physical and mental
for mind wandering. Access to casual dress would be ok.
health, and not spend all day in a
sunlight boosts productivity.
casual mood when working from
Workers who sat near a window • Make a to-do list: Before starting
home. Working from home and
performed better, processing your day make a ‘To-Do List’.
maintaining productivity is not
calls 6% to 12% faster and For prioritizing the To-Do list,
an easy job and especially for
performing 10% to 25% better you can use ABCDE Method.
those who are not habituated or
on tests that involved mental Please do not be over ambitious
experienced. Few tips may help
function and memory recall. during preparing a To-Do List.
you enhance your productivity
A wide, open day working from
during working from home:
• Distinguish between work home can feel full of possibilities.
and home mode: Do not be 150 things on the to-do list? No
• Get a dedicated workspace:
in casual/home mood during problem! Do not fall into the trap
Find a dedicated workplace at
working from home. Do not of being over-ambitious. Instead,
home with necessary gadgets,
work in your home workplace be realistic and achieve more than
internet, tools, stationaries,
with a casual dress like pajamas, what you set out. It will give you
books, waste bean, water

36 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04


a feeling of satisfaction of over
achievement rather than feeling
the disappointment of failure.
• Start on time and finish on time:
Be ready to start your work at
the same time you normally
start office and finish your work
on time. Before starting to do a
video call with your teammates,
like a 10-15-minute start-up
hurdle to explain the day plan.
• Avoid Destruction: Put some
sort of access restriction on
the other home members to
enter the workspace. Select the
workspace in such a location
that household sounds, bell
sound does not destruct
your work environment and
concentration. Other than those
of your gadgets, the internet,
social media is the major source
of destruction. Sometimes
destruction shreds down 50% of
your productivity.
• Declutter your workplace: It may
seem quite a basic tip but, how
can you be more efficient if your
desk is chaotic and cluttered and
it takes you ages to find a ball
pen or an important document?
It kills your time. The global
standard is finding any docs
within 30 sec whether the doc is
a soft or hard copy. Decluttering
your desk will help you be more
efficient by keeping you away
from wasting your time on the
finding of items. People with
neat offices are more persistent
and less frustrated and weary,
according to a recent study in
Harvard Business Review, which
found that a clean desk helps
you stick with a task more than
one and a half times longer.
A recent study shows that the
mere appearance of neatness
and organization improves work
performance. Specifically, the
study demonstrated a 167%
improvement in persistence
and attention span, a 10%
improvement in productivity
and improved ability to control
impulsive behavior. People at a
cluttered workstation persevered
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
Featured Story
at a difficult task for
an average of 668.52
seconds before stopping.
A decluttered and nit and
clean workstation, people
persevered at the same
task for 1116.88 seconds
before quitting. This is
a 167% improvement in
persistence. 5s Concept
Can help you to declutter
your workplace.
• Take sufficient break:
Take a break of 20
minutes in every 90
Figure 2: Food has a direct impact on the health and
minutes of work. The the immune system against coronavirus.
human brain cannot work
tea, warm lemon water which
productivity more than
much advised by a doctor in the
90 min at one stretch, it gets
Corona crisis time.
into the monotony mood and
become tired. Take deep breaths, • Do not surf news sites,
look out from the window, take newspapers, news channels
small breaks. Work from home throughout the day: News
is mostly in Gadgets. Those who sites, papers and channels often
work on a gadget, there is a rule broadcasting news which is
for them its call 20-20-20. For mostly negative information
every 20 min working with the which sinks in your nervous
screen take a 20-sec break and system and makes you negative.
focus on an object 20 feet away Especially during this current
from you. It is an exercise for the Corona crisis time, all most all
eye which prevents eye strain. the new are published are with
panic and stressful information
• Drink sufficient amount water:
(but true information). There is a
Throughout the day, intake
jargon in IT calls, GIGO: Garbage
enough water and preferable
in -Garbage Out. What you sink
warm water. It will hydrate your
in your mind comes out as output.
body and brain. Drinking the
You can see, read the news but
right amount of water can have
do not let it inside your nervous
a phenomenal impact on your
system. This sort of information
well-being – and your productivity.
makes you stressed and panic and
A 2013 study conducted by the
panic make your nervous system
University of East London showed
and immune system weak (in this
that drinking water can result in a
coronavirus time Immune system
14% increase in productivity.
needs to be much stronger) and
Dehydration can take its toll on chronic stress ultimately leads to
your attention span. Water is the lower productivity.
ultimate brain food, so make sure
• Intake healthy food: Food has
you’re getting enough to keep
a direct impact on your health
it alert and focused throughout
and immune system, and which
the day. Intaking Sufficient water
has a direct impact on your
helps you in clear thinking.
Productivity also. Due to lock
Dehydration can impact your
down/shut down restaurant food,
mental health as much as your
junk foods may not be available,
physical health, so staying
this is your chance to rebuild the
hydrated is a great way to look
good habits of intaking healthy
after your brain and keep it in the
foods like more green vegetables,
best shape possible. Along with
fruits, nuts, honey, etc.
water, you can also take green
37
E x p o r t To d a y

Export to US: Vietnam earning

more than Bangladesh, here is why
Textile Today Analysis
Leading apparel manufacturing countries
It is Vietnam, the South Asian nation, which reaped
export to the US (in 2019)
the highest benefits from the US-China trade war,
through exports of apparel goods in 2019 that hit the 60 54%

economy of both countries. 50

Throughout last year, China’s apparel exports to the
US registered a 9.10% fall or $2.50 billion to $24.88
billion against $27.37 billion a year ago. Of the $2.5
billion export deficit in the US market, Vietnam’s
solely bagged an increase in export orders of $1.34
billion or 54% or to $13.56 billion.
Over the same period, Bangladesh despite being
the second-largest export of apparel products in the
global market after China managed to grasp only
21.30% or $531 million to $5.9 billion in the US.
In the last year, Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the
US market gained by 9.10% to $5.93 billion, which
was $5.40 billion a year ago.
The increased earnings from apparel shipments to
the US came from previously placed work orders
and due to the trade war between China and the US,
said MA Jabbar, Managing Director of DBL Group, a
leading garment exporter.
Although Bangladesh seemed to benefit from the
trade conflict, the garment export may come under
pressure in the coming months because of the fast-
spreading coronavirus in the world and in particular
in the developed economies that are also the
country’s major export destinations.
“Our exports may also be in trouble if the
coronavirus situation in Europe and the US does not
improve soon. The crisis being faced by these two
markets [the US and China] has only deepened after
the outbreak was declared a pandemic,” he recently
said a national newspaper.
Jordan, an emerging competitor of Bangladesh
bagged nearly $300 million or 12%, while Cambodia
earned $271 million or 10.87% and India $259 million
or 10.37% from the Chinese losing market in the US.
Push factors for Vietnam gains
Why Vietnam gains the highest is a question and the
only answer comes first is a diversified export basket.
The second issue what the exporters are blaming the
losing competitiveness to its competitors.
The makers also explained it is because of the
appreciation of Bangladeshi currency against the US
dollar and the rise in production cost caused by new
wage structure and surge in utility charge.
“Vietnam is closer to China also it is mostly Chinese
investment where product development happened
from China and production in Vietnam,” Ziaur Rahman,
country manager of Swedish retail giant H&M for
40
30 21.30%
20 10.37% 10.87% 12%
9.10%
10
0
India 10.37% increase Bangladesh 21.30% increase
$259 mn $5.9 bn
Cambodia 10.87% increase Vietnam 54% increase
$271 mn $13.56 bn
Jordan 12% increase China 9.10% fall
$300 mn $24.88 bn
Bangladesh, Pakistan, and Ethiopia, told Textile Today.
That means, faster lead time and strong product
development have helped Vietnam to gain the
highest from the US-China trade war, said Rahman.
However, exporters blamed the country’s business
environment for the lesser growth in the US markets
compared to its close competitor Vietnam.
“Ease of doing business and cost of doing business,
Bangladeshi business people are lagged comparing
to Vietnam in capturing the US exports. As a result,
Bangladesh failed to grab more market share than its
competitions as they cannot take orders and deliver
in time,” former BGMEA Vice President Faruque
Hassan told Textile Today.
What the manufacturer needs flexibility in doing business
and stopping hassles in delivering imported goods.
On top of that, Vietnam is very strong in innovation
and producing fancy items made of manmade stable
fiber, which gave them extra mileage in capturing
work orders relocating from china, said Hassan also
managing director of Giant Group.
How to gain more
On the other, they are more prices competitive due
to devaluation of exchange, while Bangladeshi taka is
appreciated, said the economist.
Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) contributed
lots to Vietnam’s capacity and its diversification.
So, Bangladesh has to concentrate on product
diversification and attracting new investment, which
will help to transfer technical know-how, said Zahid.
On the other, Bangladesh improves its ease of doing
business ranking and ensure quicker delivery of shipment
to reduce lead time otherwise, the buyers will prefer to
shift business to shorter lead-time country, he added.

38 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04

Export Update
Apparel exports drop 7.12% during July-March
Akhi Akter
Apparel exports witnessed a 7.12%
decline to $24.10 billion during
July-March, the first nine month of
the current fiscal year.
As per the data of Export
Promotion Bureau (EPB), released
on 15 April, knitwear products
earned $11.95 billion in the first
nine months of this fiscal year,
decline by 6.61% year-on-year.
Woven goods fetched $12.14
billion, witnessing a 7.61% fall
against the same period of
previous year.
The country’s total export earnings
in March declined 18.29% year-
over-year to $2.73 billion. Total
export earnings during July-March
of this fiscal year declined by
6.24% to $28.97 billion, which was
$30.90 billion a year ago.
As the global retailers have
canceled shipments of finished
goods, while the supply chain with
China, the largest destination for
industrial raw materials for the
ILO: Almost 25 million jobs could
be lost worldwide due to COVID-19
Rahbar Hossain
The economic and labor crisis
created by the COVID-19
pandemic could increase global
unemployment by almost 25
million, according to a new
assessment by the International
Labor Organization (ILO).
However, if we see an
internationally coordinated
policy response, as happened
in the global financial crisis of
2008/9, then the impact on
global unemployment could be
significantly lower, said ILO.
The preliminary assessment
note, COVID-19 and the world
of work: Impacts and responses,
calls for urgent, large-scale and
40
local manufacturing business, also
was almost stopped due to the
coronavirus outbreak.
Due to the outbreak of Covid-19,
apparel makers have seen a huge
quantity of their work orders
cancelled or suspended. Of the
canceled work orders, some 40%
was finished clothes and ready to
ship, as per Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association.
BGMEA data also mentioned
that 1,140 apparel exporters have
witnessed work order cancellations
worth $3.16 billion so far, affecting
nearly 2.26 million workers.
It would be very tough to come
out of the current trouble time
as the big and important export
destinations such as US, Germany,
UK and Spain were affected, some
business leaders opined.
Leather and leather goods, the
second largest exporting sector,
saw a 10.78% fall to $688.51 million
coordinated measures across
three pillars: protecting workers
in the workplace, stimulating the
economy and employment, and
supporting jobs and incomes.
Based on different scenarios
for the impact of COVID-19 on
global GDP growth, the ILO
estimates indicate a rise in global
unemployment of between 5.3
million (“low” scenario) and 24.7
million (“high” scenario) from a
base level of 188 million in 2019.
By comparison, the 2008-9 global
financial crisis increased global
unemployment by 22 million.
Underemployment is also
expected to increase on a
Bangladesh Textile Today |
$24.10 billion
apparel exports
$11.95 billion
knitwear products
export
$12.14 billion
woven goods export
in the July-March period.
Specialized textile sector saw a
close to 12% negative growth to
$99 million, while home textile
products fell by 7.59% to $598
million.
On the plus side, jute and jute
goods, the third largest export
earning sector, registered a robust
23.49% growth to $775.63 million
during the period.
large scale, as the economic
consequences of the virus
outbreak translate into reductions
in working hours and wages.
Falls in employment also means
large income losses for workers.
Working poverty is expected to
increase significantly too, as “the
strain on incomes resulting from
the decline in economic activity
will devastate workers close to or
below the poverty line”.
In times of crisis like the current
one, ILO suggested two key tools
firstly, social dialogue and secondly,
international labor standards
provide a tried-and-trusted
foundation for policy responses.
Volume 13, Issue 04
 Exclusive Silicones ! Ultimate Everytime

ULTRASIL-GSX

“Ultrasil GSX”the
“Ultrasil-SX” theultimate
ultimate
forfor comfortnish
comfort nish

“Ultrasil GSX” a glycol modifed epoxy silicone of fers

high level of softness and resilience to knits.
Robust product, Stable to high pH
and optical brightners.
* Gots Approved.
* Ecopassport Approved INSPIRING CONFIDENCE

* ZDHC Level 3 Approved

* Green Screen Bench Marking
Under Process.
The textile and apparel industry is in the need of the hour of transformation. The right transformation can help the
industry to be more economically sustainable.
On 14 March 2020, a training on "Industry Transformation Scopes" took place, where many industry experts and
opinion leaders shared their experience with the young 'Transformation Leaders (TLs)'.
The experts addressed the scopes for "Setting Transformation Blueprint (STB)" in different areas of the industry.
100 TLs from Textile Talent Hunt 7th season along with around 200 experts and professionals and 20 factories will
work on the scopes to develop 100 'Practically Tested Transformation Model (PTTM)'.

Bhaskar Ranjan Saha

Managing Director
The Analyst Ltd

Anis Ansari
Sr. General Manager (Operations),
Ha-Meem Group

Engr. Md. Hasan Kajmir Mahmud

Director, South West Composite Ltd

Engr. Rafat Hasan Chowdhury

Director, Huetech Yarn Limited

Syful Alam Mallick Monirul Alam Sheikh Md. Shofiqul Islam

Compliance Manager (South Asia), Sr. General Manager-Printing Executive Director, System Process-IT
Auchan Retail International Dysin-Chem Ltd Team Group

season
Not just the biggest industry platform
2019-20
...transforming into an

Innovation
Profitable & Effective Organization through People Leadership & Excellence

Transforming Human Capital

Hub!
 April 2020

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 13, Issue 04 l Pages 43 to 93 w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m

April 2020
E-commerce platforms to bring a new
dimension in apparel business’

STORE

H&M, M&S, PVH, Inditex, Bangladesh textile Factories from

KIABI and Target and apparel Bangladesh jointly
confirm to receive the industry during making safety gears
ready goods COVID-19 to fight COVID-19

season
Profitable & Effective Organization through People Leadership & Excellence 2019-20
Not just the biggest industry platform

...transforming into an

Innovation
Hub!

 : +88 01775 999748 l  : monir@textiletoday.com.bd

 Not just the biggest industry platform

...transforming into an

Innovation
Hub!

100 'Transformation Teams' having 1 Industry Expert, 1 Industry Supervisor,

1 Academic Researcher and 1 Young Transformation Leader in each team will be
deployed in 2020 to set 'Transformation Blueprint' for Textile and
Apparel industry in this critical juncture.

Become 'Transformation Partner' to contribute in the biggest ever

effort to design the next decade Textile and Apparel industry.

season
2019-20

 : +88 01775 999748 Profitable & Effective Organization through People Leadership & Excellence

 : monir@textiletoday.com.bd

Bangladesh textile and apparel
industry during COVID-19
FT Analysis
Bangladesh’s export earnings are
increasingly becoming dependent
on the readymade garment (RMG)
sector. Now this phenomenon is
threatening our country’s economy
due to corona-crisis. Because the
country’s 84% remittance was
gaining from this sector.
The Coronavirus epidemic poses
a threat to the country’s apparel
sector, as foreign buyers have
started revising their business
strategies amid the prevailing
critical situation.
Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BGMEA) said that
more than one thousand RMG
factories had received order
cancellation or shipment delay
notices from the buyers for export
orders worth almost US$3 billion.
It is affecting more than 1.44
million workers.
Now Bangladesh, USA, China, Italy,
Spain, France and other European
countries declared nationwide
lockdowns as the countries took
sweeping measures to reduce
the spread of the coronavirus.
Following the lockdowns, major
brands in Europe, including
Primark and Inditex, shut their
stores in the countries and asked
Bangladeshi suppliers to hold
shipment of ready garments for
another two to four weeks.
Amid this situation, global buyers
are not only canceling and
suspending orders but also, they
are not taking ready goods. The
current state makes us clear that
the textile and RMG industry is
vulnerable and dependent. The
corona-crisis shows us that we
should go to a self-reliant industry.
Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, Director
of the Bangladesh Knitwear
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BKMEA), said the
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
prices of basic raw materials,
including sewing thread and level
yarns used in production, are high
due to the virus outbreak.
However, Chinese suppliers, after
resuming their operation partially,
have started communicating with
local factories. He also requested
to every manufacturer of our
country not to open factories until
pandemic situation ends.
As the coronavirus founded in
China in December last year
and has now spread to over 199
countries. Almost 2100 people
have tested positive for the virus
while five others have died in
Bangladesh till 19 April.
Based on the current situation
almost all the factories including
Epyllion, Dird Group, Apex
Holdings, Concord, etc. have
declared for closing their work
from 26 March due to corona-
crisis.
BGMEA President Rubana Huq
said that everyone related to
the RMG sector we have to be
patient and not be afraid. Every
manufacturer should contact their
buyer and should try to convince
them not to cancel their order
fully and to take the ready goods
through this employee can get
their salaries.
She also sent a letter to the global
buyers urging them not to cancel
or hold orders till July so that
workers could get their wages and
allowances during two Eid festivals.
BGMEA has already given masks
and also producing personal
protective equipment’s (PPE) for
the protection against corona-crisis.
In the meantime, Prime Minister
Sheikh Hasina has announced an
incentive package of Tk 5,000
crore to pay the salaries of workers
of export-oriented industries in the
case of Coronavirus infection.
FT Editorial
Figure: The Coronavirus epidemic poses a
threat to the country’s apparel sector, as foreign
buyers have started revising their business
strategies amid the prevailing critical situation.
Prime Minister said Bangladesh
Bank has already taken several
business-friendly initiatives. The
central bank has announced that
it will not liquidate any customer
till June.
“The export collection period has
been increased from two months
to 6 months. Similarly, the deadline
to meet the import costs has been
increased from 4 months to 6
months. Banking on mobile has
increased the limit for financial
transactions.”
The Prime Minister also said
the deadline for payment of
electricity, water and gas bills has
been extended till June without
surcharges or penalties and repayment
of loan installments of NGOs.
Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, Director
of the Bangladesh Knitwear
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BKMEA), added that
the supply chain, especially of
man-made fiber and woven fabric,
might be affected, as the majority
of those are imported from China.
According to the industry people,
about 46 percent of raw materials
for the local RMG industry is
sourced from China. It is high time
to rethink our business structure.
Bangladesh RMG sector should
start producing raw materials and
utilize properly the existing raw
materials like jute, leather, etc., which
will reduce foreign dependency as
well as boost the economy.
45

An initiative of Textile Today
The Team
Tareq Amin
Founder & CEO
Amzad Hossain Monir
Head of Business Development
Rakibul Islam
Nepal Nath
Ishrat Jahan
Business Development
Rahbar Hossain
Editorial Coordinator
SN Abdullah
Research & Development
Sanjoy Kumar Saha
Mohammad Nurul Alam
Sanaullah Sabuj
Engagement & Communication
Mosfikur Rahman
Video & Graphic Editing
Yeasin Mia
Graphic Design
Ashraful Alam
Cinematographer
Sujon Mohalder
Asst. Cinematographer
Riasad Rion
Sr. Executive, Web & IT
Md. Ariful Islam
Md. Masudur Rahman
Abir Basak
Editorial Contributions
www.factorytalesbd.com
Find your unique positioning and stand head-high...
Major Factory Tales Services are
Brand Strategy Making
(Identity & Positioning)
Best Practice Story Building
(Marketing/Branding Story)
Brand Communication- PR Services
Sections under Factory Tales
April 2020
Page (43-60) Page (61-78)
April 2020 Unveiling industry best practices Knitting & knitwear
April 2020
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 13, Issue 04 l Pages 43 to 93 w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 13, Issue 04 l Pages 61 to 78
The story of waste fabric It’s time to work for a common
E-commerce platforms to bring a new (Jhoot): Positioning goal to attain the optimum
dimension in apparel business’
Bangladesh solution
STORE
H&M, M&S, PVH, Inditex, Bangladesh textile Factories from Sweater segment hits
hard during COVID-19
KIABI and Target and apparel Bangladesh jointly
confirm to receive the industry during making safety gears
ready goods COVID-19 to fight COVID-19
pandemic
Profitable & Effective Organization through People Leadership & Excellence
Not just the biggest industry platform
...transforming into an
Innovation
2019-20
season New PL-KF3B three end fleece circular
knitting machine
Hub!
 : +88 01775 999748 l  : monir@textiletoday.com.bd
On the Cover: Advertisement strip showing Textile Today's On the Cover: Advertisement strip showing
new initiative "Setting Transformation Blueprint" Knitting Technology Solution
Page (79-93)
Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion
April 2020
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 13, Issue 04 l Pages 79 to 93 January 2020
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 13, Issue 01 l Pages 97 to 106
The new keys to successful
The fallout for
printing environments:
Corona is
enormous for
apparel sector
Fashion becomes
standstill amidst
Coronavirus
pandemic
Factors constitute
placement printing pricing
Prospect of
Medical 3D fabricAinpotential
textile:
global fashion industry
segment to grow
On the Cover: Advertisement strip showing
Textile Machinery and Laboratory equipments
Brand Manual Making
(Designing, Publishing & Printing Brand
Materials and Websites)
Photography & Videography Mobile : 01775999368, 01775999748
(Corporate/Product/Process/Facility)
Email: info@factorytalesbd.com
Web: www.factorytalesbd.com

Apparel makers to get loan
at 2% to pay workers wage
Staff Correspondent
Figure: Affected apparel factories can avail funds from the government bailout package of Tk 5000 crore at 2% interest to pay their
workers’ salaries for up to three months.
The Coronavirus affected apparel
factories can avail funds from the
government bailout package of
Tk 5000 crore at 2% interest to
pay their workers’ salaries for up
to three months. Earlier, Prime
Minister Sheikh Hasina announced
a bailout package of Tk5000 crore
for the export-oriented sector,
who incurred losses due to the
outbreak of coronavirus.
On Wednesday, the Ministry of
Finance revealed the guideline
for the disbursement of the Taka
5,000 crore stimulus package for
the export-oriented industries.
According to the guideline, an
affected export-oriented apparel
manufacturer can take a loan from
the package at 2% interest to pay
their workers’ salaries for up to
three months. But the wages of
workers must be paid to either a
bank or mobile financial service
account, the guideline stated.
"It is not a grant. The loan will
have to be repaid within a
certain period," said Tipu Munshi,
Commerce Minister while speaking
at an inter-ministerial meeting on
prevention of coronavirus in the
country.
Apparel makers, who at least
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
A p p a r e l To d a y
export his or her 80% products,
2%
will be eligible for the loan. Thus,
an owner or management of those
industries could take a loan from
that fund and could disburse the
salaries of their employees and interest to pay
workers for the three months workers’ salaries
including April, May and June 2020.
Loan will be payable in
18
As per the guideline, the Finance
Division will give Tk5000 crore equal
to Bangladesh Bank from payments
budget allocation. On demands,
Bangladesh Bank will disburse it
to different commercial banks as Workers’ wages must be
loans without any interest and the paid by a bank/mobile
commercial banks will lend it at financial service account
2% to the export-oriented eligible
business people.
Apparel makers, who export
80%
As per the guideline, the products, will
borrowers will get a six-month be eligible for
grace period. After that she/ the loan
he will start paying to repay the
money through installments to the
Loan
government by the next two years.
installments
will start after
6
In this global grim scenario,
maximum Bangladeshi garment
factories were closed. Although
months
there is an option of keeping them
open if there are work orders from
international retailers.
want, they can run their factories
following proper health guideline,"
"The government has no directives Tipu Munshi added in this regard.
about the closure of garment
factory. If the factory owners
47
R e t a i l e r s To d a y

H&M, M&S, PVH, Inditex,

KIABI and Target confirm
to receive the ready goods
Rahbar Hossain

4.1 million peoples-oriented
Bangladesh textile and apparel
industry is passing a baleful time
as the COVID-19 crisis escalates.
The novel coronavirus pandemic
has led to worldwide store
closures and now many brands
are refusing to accept completed
garment orders, which they would
no doubt struggle to sell during
the current global lockdowns. Till
now over $3 billion orders has
been cancelled from brands and
buyers.
According to the Bangladesh
Garment Manufacturers and
Exporters Association (BGMEA)
President Rubana Huq, many
garment factories in Bangladesh
have received impersonal
corporate emails from brands
cancelling garment orders.
She asked to brands for the sake
of survival of the factories and
workers to accept the goods that
are ready to be shipped and pay
the full cost (under flexible terms &
condition) or at least compensate
factories for sunk costs of any in-
process manufacturing.
Finally, global giant fashion brands
are responding. H&M, responded
on March 27 as follows:
“We will stand by our
commitments to our garment
manufacturing suppliers by taking
delivery of the already produced
garments as well as goods in
production. We will pay for these
goods and we will do it under
currently agreed payment terms.
In addition, we will not negotiate
prices on already placed orders.”
Meanwhile, five more fashion
brands came forward by
confirming to BGMEA that they
will receive ready-made garments
that had already been ready to
ship and were in the process of
being made against their running
orders.
Marks & Spencer, PVH, Inditex,
KIABI & Target confirmed of
taking goods what are in the seas,
ready to be shipped and work in
progress. Among the retailers,
three from the European Union
and the rest two from North
America.
Hopefully the situation will get
normal within next few months.
Till then manufacturers need basic
support from the brands and
buyers to survive.

GLIMMER OF HOPE FOR APPAREL EXPORTERS

ANNUAL SOURCING FROM BANGLADESH

$3 BILLION worth
$1 BILLION
of cancelled and $1 BILLION $900 MILLION
worth of orders
withheld orders
reconfirmed


Primark has not sent any
messages so far. So we $3.5 BILLION $3.5 BILLION
are waiting, I am sure they
2.16 MILLION will respond. They have
workers in 1,092 been great partners to
factories could be Bangladesh.
affected RUBANA HUQ $500-$700 MILLION $400-$500 MILLION
BGMEA President

48 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04

datatex datatex datatex
we make IT work for you we make IT work for you we make IT work for you

House # 06 (8th floor), Basic Bluebell,

The Analyst Limited Road # 16/A Gulshan-1, Dhaka-1212,
+880 171 304 2028, www.theanalystbd.net
Industry Best Practices
A well-timed preventive
measure by Urmi Group
against COVID-19
Staff Correspondent
Urmi Group, one of the leading readymade
garments (RMG) manufacturer in Bangladesh, is
actively redefining industry standards of production
performance innovation and growth.
When the world is gripped with the Covid-19
pandemic, Urmi Group prioritizes in implementing
health safety and hygiene best practices for every
8,000 employees and workers a top requirement.
Hygiene for ensuring health safety includes
thoroughly cleaning hands before entering the
workplace. The well-trained team ensures at the
factory premises gate that all the workers are doing
it properly.
The group has round the clock medical officers to
monitor all the safety measures.
Also, every line, machinery, staircases, railings,
doorknobs, workers' gears, etc. are thoroughly
disinfected and cleaned before the arrival of the
workers.
Washing hands at regular intervals for workers is a
must. Simultaneously, awareness building training
programs for the workers are arranged regularly.
Banners with safety guidelines are placed to create
general awareness for all the staff.
Urmi Group takes pride in ensuring health safety and
wellbeing for all employees across every facility.
Figure 1: Urmi Group takes pride in ensuring health safety and
wellbeing for all employees across every facility
50
Figure 2: every line, machinery, staircases, railings, doorknobs,
workers’ gears, etc. are thoroughly disinfected and cleaned
before the arrival of the workers.
“As the part of the sustainable business culture we
are always ahead to adopting with new challenges,”
said Khan Md. Al-Farabi, Sr. Merchandiser -seamless
activewear, sportswear, gym wear and Brand
Merchandiser at Urmi Group.
Not to mention that all three factories under Urmi
Group have a safe and pleasant workplace for every
level of workers. Climate controlled, spacious and
well-lit factory floors are guaranteed across all
facilities.
All factories are regularly audited by internationally
recognized compliance entities such as Better Works,
ACCORD, OEKO TEX, Amfori BSCI, FLO-CERT.
Urmi Group believes in making this world a better
place for the generation to come. Thus, its efforts
to reduce carbon footprints are the first of its kind
in the country. The group is one of the pioneer
companies to claim to have a complete green facility
with anaerobic biological ETP. It has a capacity of
4000 m3 per day without zero discharge.
Urmi Group is also a pioneer of seamless knitting
technology in Bangladesh producing 300000 units
garments per day.
Urmi Group makes 30 tons of fabric and 160,000 pc
of apparel daily. With total investment exceeds US$
55 million annual turnover US$ 168 million in 2018.
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04

2071 factories paid wages till 18 April
Rakibul Islam
In a statement, Bangladesh
Garment Manufacturers and
Exporters Association (BGMEA)
informed that already 1665
factories have paid wages till 16
April to their workers and the
factories maintained fantastic
hygiene protocol during salary
disbursements. Meaning a total of
73% factories paid wages.
A total of 23,70,917 workers
received salary among 24,72,417
total workers of BGMEA factories.
The recent Coronavirus situation
has created a crisis nobody has
experienced before. Readymade
garment manufacturing units are
also facing an unprecedented chal-
lenge of existence. At the outbreak
of the COVID-19 crisis, BGMEA
requested all members to clear
March’s salary on time.
SP Group sets example paying 2 months’
wages before closure
Akhi Akter
AMC Knit Composite Ltd and
SP Fashion Ltd were declared
closed on March 25. Around 3,300
workers and employees of the
factories were paid their salaries
and allowances-also Eid bonus-
for March and also for April in
advance before closure.
SP Group, which runs these two
composite knit garment factories
in Memberbari area of Gazipur
has set a good example while
many garment factory owners are
facing criticism for keeping their
units open during the countrywide
coronavirus lock-down.
SP Group Managing Director
Shubal Chandra Saha yesterday
said, “As I cannot go to the
factories due to health safety
issues, I must have to think about
the health safety of my workers
and employees. So, we shut down
the factories.”
“I know their one-month income
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
Rubana Huq, President, BGMEA
said, “till today 95.89% of workers
have received March salary and
BGMEA is continuously working
towards that. But there is a reality
out there worldwide which we
need to be aware of.”
Rubana Huq explains the current
challenges Bangladeshi apparel
factories are facing:
Uncertainty from brands about
all cancellations/postponement
of present orders, WIP and future
placement which has already ex-
ceeded USD 3.15 billion.
Factories have not shipped any
goods for the last three weeks
now and without shipping docu-
ments, there is a shortage of funds
through the bank channel.
Most industrial areas like Gazipur,
Savar, Narayanganj are under lock-
will be gone with the payment of
their house rent and other dues.
They have to go to their village
home and stay there for a long
time. How will they run their
families during this period? So,
we gave them the next month’s
salary,” he explained the reason
behind paying salaries in advance.
The government on March 23
announced the closure of all
government and private offices
from March 26 to April 4 to contain
the spread of coronavirus. Later, the
shutdown was extended to April 14.
The government also suspended all
public transport services.
But, division among influential
owners over the closure of garment
factories and an absence of specific
instructions from the government
had sent thousands of RMG workers
into a dangerous scramble to get
back to Dhaka on April 3, 4, said
stakeholders of the sector.
Industry Updates
down making movement within
these areas nearly impossible, as
mostly the factories pay by cash.
Even the banks are functioning
in an extremely limited manner
due to the lockdown. BGMEA
has reached out to all banks re-
questing to co-operate in a more
relaxed condition so that factories
can take money to pay worker salaries.
BGMEA is continuously working
round the clock to ensure maxi-
mum worker payments of March is
cleared, as the lockdown has been
now extended till 25 April, all of
the workers will be paid as quickly
as possible.
BGMEA strongly wants to assure all
that workers will be paid for March.
So BGMEA requests all its workers
to have faith and rest assured that
the March salary will be paid.
Braving risk of coronavirus
infection, workers traveled to
Dhaka only to find most of their
factories closed. Many came to the
capital to collect their due salaries.
The incident drew huge criticism
from different quarters as it
could be a cause to spread the
coronavirus.
SP Group, which exports RMG
products worth around Tk 500 to
550 crore annually, shut down its
factories from March 26, which will
remain closed until April 30.
“We started as a small business
30 years ago. Our workers
and staffers are like our family
members. So, we have decided to
stand by them,” said added.
The workers and employees were very
happy to receive two month’s salaries.
Shubal Chandra Saha also asked
his workers and employees to join
work after the situation improves.
51
Industry Updates
Factories from Bangladesh jointly making
safety gears to fight COVID-19
Rahbar Hossain
After the first confirmation
of Coronavirus COVID-19 in
Bangladesh, 621 persons have
been infected by this deadly
virus which includes few doctors
also and more than more than
1,00,000 peoples have died till
12 April worldwide. Many doctors
and nurses are in quarantine for being
COVID-19 suspects. World Health
Organization (WHO) is saying doctors
are more exposed to this virus and
safety gears should be ensured.
Under a joint initiative of Pay
It Forward, non-profitable
foundation People for People,
the Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BGMEA), the Marks
& Spencer, the Arunachal Trust,
and the BUET Alumni Association
Cambodian garment industry hit hard
due to COVID-19 pandemic
Desk Report
The United States and the
European Union are the largest
export markets of Cambodia’s
garments. Like other Cambodian
garment industry also hit hard due
to the COVID-19 pandemic.
More than 57 factories had
suspended operations due to raw
material shortage. But 20 out
of those are now back in action
after China recently resumed the
supply of raw materials, according
to Ken Loo, Secretary-General
of the Garment Manufacturers
Association in Cambodia (GMAC).
Over in Cambodia, it was reported
that more than half a million
people are employed in the
garment industry making it the
biggest sector in the country.
52
five garment factories Urmi Group,
Snowtex, Aman Group, Dekko
Group and Smartex Group started
producing the personal protective
equipment (PPE).
The initiative got approval from
the Directorate General of Health
Services (DGHS) to make the PPE.
The initial plans to produce at least
five lakh pieces of PPE and initially,
50000 PPE will be distributed to
the hospitals free.
According to BGMEA, eight
more factories supposed to start
production of PPE from this week.
Asif Ashraf, Managing Director,
Urmi Group said, “It would not
make any profit from making the
PPE and it will only take fabric
charge as it will have to buy the
raw materials.”
Media reports also state that the
sector accounts for 16 percent
of Cambodia’s gross domestic
product (GDP) and 80 percent of
its export earnings.
However, due to the Coronavirus
outbreak, around 15,000 workers
have been temporarily laid off as
factories are shut down.
Brands are canceling orders and
refusing to receive ready goods.
Garment factory owners in
Cambodia are urging brands and
retailers not to cancel or postpone
orders during the current
coronavirus pandemic.
China has started to move on and
the supply chain is getting normal,
but if the brand shops remain off
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Snowtex is making 50000 PPE,
of the quantity they will distribute
17,000 for free of cost and they
won’t make any profit for this PPE
making, SM Khaled, Managing
Director of Snowtex confirmed.
The National Board of Revenue
has withdrawn all forms of import
duties and taxes to encourage
quick import of PPEs, raw materials
used in hand sanitizers, coronavirus
testing kits and reagents.
A country like the USA also
ordering for PPE to factories in
Bangladesh. Smart Jacket (BD) Ltd, a
concern of Smart Group of Industries
regularly manufactures surgical
jackets for an American buyer.
This pandemic may be showing a
new path to the manufacturers of
the country.
Figure: Like other Cambodian garment industry also
hit hard due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Courtesy:
betterwork.org
and they do not give the order,
factories have no other choice but
remain closed.
Cambodia has eased the liquidity
of banks so that they can help
distressed borrowers and Prime
Minister Hun Sen also announced
tax breaks and a bailout plan of up
to US $ 2 billion, last month.
Volume 13, Issue 04
At Itema we make the impossible so that you can create the unimaginable.

With innovation as a state of mind, we work tirelessly to provide our Customers

with the most advanced, futuristic weaving technology on the market to meet
and exceed weavers’ expectation.

Choose innovation. Choose the future. Choose Itema.

Discover R9500²denim,
The Second Generation of the Itema denim dedicated rapier
machine to save money, produce quality fabrics, achieve the
highest weaving efficiency like never before. www.itemagroup.com
contact@itemagroup.com
S a f e t y To d a y
BGMEA will provide 20,000
PPEs to healthcare personnel
Desk Report
In the wake of Covid-19 pandemic,
BGMEA has come forward to
provide PPE suits to healthcare
personnel including doctors,
nurses and hospital workers in
Bangladesh.
Currently BGMEA is making at
least 20,000 PPEs for donation.
“What we are making is a
substitute of level-1 PPE. Corona
patient treating doctors and
staff need level 3/4. Our product
is not certified. It is just 100%
waterproof and the design is close
to a professional PPE. Our suits
will mostly be worn by support
workers and doctors who are right
now scared to attend their jobs
because of what is happening in
the world. They expect protection
for all activities, not only when
treating patients with Corona
symptoms,” said BGMEA President
Rubana Huq.
The fabric mills who are also our
members are selling the fabric
below cost in a sign of solidarity.
BGMEA will be distributing
the PPEs to DGHS along with
Dysin donates one-ton hand sanitizers
Rahbar Hossain
Country’s largest dyestuff and
chemicals supplier and technical
service provider Dysin Group
has donated 1-ton hand sanitizer
to prevent outbreak of COVID-19
pandemic. These sanitizers will be
given to hospitals across the country.
‘People for People’ foundation will
assist in packaging and distribution
of this sanitizers. Two more non-
profitable foundation ‘Rokkhi’ and
‘Shopno Sarothi’ also collaborating
in this welfare activity.
The coronavirus COVID-19 has
affected 209 countries and
territories around the world. Global
buyers have so far canceled or
54
other Government and Semi-
Government organizations.
They are also working in a coalition
with other organizations and
NGOs in this regard.
“PPE suits are not natively made
by our garment producers. The
medical grade and WHO standard
fabric has to be imported and also
mainly from China. Moreover, on
the production side if we are to
make PPE suits for medical use
the factories have to be retooled
with seam sealing machines along
with some other specialized
machinery,” she mentioned.
Sterile factory environment
also has to be maintained and
necessary certification and training
need to be conducted. This will
require at least 6 months or more
for any Bangladeshi factory.
“We are alternatively sourcing
fabric from China which currently
has a lead time of 15-20 days
because of severe delays in air
freight routes. As soon as we
can get the certified fabric we
suspended orders of readymade
garment products worth US$3
billion from Bangladesh (updated on
7 April). Many fashion brands have
shut their stores in Europe and North
America due to the coronavirus
outbreak which leads to this order
cancellation and suspension.
Many factories from Bangladesh
already have taken many measures
for the workers safety. Due to
order cancellation some factories
already been closed.
Overall global business is slowing
down due to this pandemic and
also in Bangladesh.
Here Dysin Group authority
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Figure: BGMEA has come forward to
provide PPE suits to healthcare personnel
including doctors, nurses and hospital
workers in Bangladesh.
will be switching to certified and
imported fabrics for our PPE.”
BGMEA’s ultimate goal is to export
PPEs to the rest of the world. “We
are already in a discussion with
a coalition of ILO, WHO, WFP,
UNICEF and other organizations
who we have sought help from
for assistance to expedite the
process of converting our
production capabilities available in
Bangladesh to produce PPEs.”
showed their
responsibility
to the nation.
They have
also promised
to give more
floor cleaning
sanitizers and
soap.
The sanitizers
will be packed
at Inovace
Technologies
laboratory. The whole initiative is
volunteering by general students
and alumni of Bangladesh University
of Engineering and Technology
(BUET).
Volume 13, Issue 04
 Textile Today Question of the Month
Global buyers have canceled and suspended orders of readymade garment products worth US$1.98 billion
from Bangladesh till 23 March. They are not only canceling and suspending orders, but also not taking
ready goods, and so is paying. We are highly dependent on Europe and the United States for orders, and
on China for raw materials. We have seen many times to suffer our industry due to such external factors.

Why we need to be a victim of such a vulnerable global

industry, how could we reduce such shocks on our industry?

Asif Ibrahim
Director
BGMEA

We are facing a grave situation with the coronavirus. The brands are reducing their orders and are asking
to hold on to uncut fabric. And those who are producing readymade garments (RMG) are being asked
to hold their shipments as global consumption is coming to a halt. This will have serious consequences
as we see an imminent liquidity crisis which will lead to financial disruption of the manufacturing units.

President, the Board, past Presidents, industry leaders have been working relentlessly round the
clock to handle the crisis. We are contacting all the brands representatives, embassy, President of EU,
German minister. We request our buyers at least assured in taking shipment of goods that have already
been manufactured.

Meherul Islam Sohel

DGM, Fabric Sourcing & Development,
Kenpark Bangladesh

Corona Virus pandemic is a unique situation for our business it is a unique case for the whole world
and all the business. At this moment to reduce the impact of it we have do take a no of short term
measures first and then maybe in a month picture will be more clear, we will come to know more
about from our customers based on that we have to take some long term strategies to reduce the
impact of this kind of situation.

And finally, we will have a challenge in this tough period, but we have to look for opportunities
also in this and find out a way of survival. It will help us how to learn how to overcome this kind of
situation, it will open a new door for business for us as well as the making of PPE.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04 55

 Textile Today Question of the Month

Mohiuddin Rubel Shovon Islam

Director Managing Director
BGMEA Sparrow Group of Industries

This is not an external or internal factor anymore; The government has come up with
this is now a global factor. We had a supply shortage great support for the sector. It
when the outbreak started in China, then it infected has offered a generous stimulus
our export market now fully paralyzed. Currently, we package to subsidize wages, convert
are running through a situation where everyday cases loans to long-term debt and offer
of COVID-19 are increasing in our country. However, very reasonable interest rates. We
we have overdependence on a few markets for our welcome it. But brands are acting like
imports and exports, that’s a reality and we cannot selfish and workers are irresponsible
overcome those in near future given our comparative who are indulged by the media - the
advantage. Coronavirus is one of its kind of natural real victim are us.
calamity which I think happens once in a century, but
we have to pay serious attention to our economic The entire business community,
vulnerabilities and weaknesses and take strategies media, labor representatives, our
like diversification not only markets but also products. very loved Labor forces, and the
We need a contingency fund to tackle disaster Government needs to work together
preparedness, need to build our economic immunity and stop blaming or finger-pointing.
so that all our achievements are not threatened. Otherwise, we will not make it
through this unprecedented crisis.

Maheer Mannan
Deputy Managing Director
Shangu Tex Ltd

As an export-oriented country, Bangladesh will, for the foreseeable future, have to depend on the
purchasing ability of foreign markets. However, this will not always be true, especially if we manage
to gain greater expertise in the raw material section. Furthermore, our local market has also seen an
upsurge in the purchase of clothes. In due time, our economy can stop depending on imports and
exports. This global pandemic is undoubtedly unprecedented, which compels governments to take
steps to minimize its effect. At this stage, defeating COVID-19 and saving lives should take priority
over business.

56 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04

World Class
Sustainable Technology
for the Apparel Industry
Ramsons Approach
Towards Innovative and
Sustainability Thinking
Brings The Customer
Closer To Eco- friendly
Garmenting.

Fabric Storage/ Cutting/ Steam

Ironing/ IBR Steam Generators/
Stain Removing/ Wet & Dry
Process includes Vertostar, Spray
Booth, Curing Oven & Other
Special Effects Machine/ Material
Handling and Final Finishing
Equipments.

Go Green Tumble Drier XDrum-520 Ozonator

B.O: House # 47, Road # 4, Sector # 4,

Uttara, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh
H.O: Sarjapur Road, Bangalore,
Ramsons Sustainability Genuine Spare Parts 560 035, Karnataka, India

Sales Enquiry: +880 161 2020 601 / +880 164 0909 837 WhatsApp no: +919831499772 Toll Free No: 1800-42-59-222
Email: ananya.bd@ramsonsindia.com Web: www.ramsonsindia.com
E x p e r t ’ s Ta l k
Abdullah Hil Rakib, Managing Director of Team Group
‘E-commerce platforms to
bring a new dimension in
apparel business’
BTT Interview
Team Group is a diversified
business conglomerate vertically
integrated textile and apparel
manufacturing facility. It has now
concerns in Knit, Woven, Sweater,
Shirts and Blouses, Denims,
Jackets, Trims, Pharmaceuticals
and retails. The group is supporting
the medical professionals, staff
and others by giving free personal
protective equipment (PPE) and hand
sanitizers in the global crisis moment.
Recently Abdullah Hil Rakib,
Managing Director of Team Group
gave an interview where he talked
about the recent circumstances
of the industry and the future
business opportunity.
Textile Today: Team Group
always comes forward for social
58
welfare. Recently Team Group
has distributed PPE (Personal
Protective Equipment) and hand
sanitizers among the doctors and
nurses in 154 hospitals to fight
the fatal COVID-19 virus. We
welcome your such support. Do
you have any further planning to
provide more support to tackle
the pandemic?
Abdullah Hil Rakib: Thank you,
actually we feel responsibility
to our peoples, society and the
country. The whole world is
suffering, that’s why we have taken
the initiative to distribute the PPE
and sanitizers among the doctors
and nurses in 154 hospitals,
especially at upazila level health
complexes to help them carry out
their professional duties with safety
Bangladesh Textile Today |
and fight the fatal COVID-19 virus.
We will continue this as long as we
have raw materials and we will try
to manage more.
Textile Today: The Coronavirus
affected apparel factories can
avail funds from the government
bailout package of Tk 5000
crore at 2% interest to pay their
workers’ salaries for up to three
months. How do you see the
package? Does the package fulfill
exporters’ expectations? How
could it be better?
Abdullah Hil Rakib: Initially it
was not clear whether it is a
motivational fund or anything
else. Later we got to understand
that it is a low interest loan and
this is also appreciable in this
Volume 13, Issue 04
 E x p e r t ’ s Ta l k
crisis moment. But three months
is very short, if it is 6 to 8 months
then it will be more helpful for all.
Because, initially it was thought
that this pandemic will be under
control soon and the industry will
move normally in three months, but
IMF and McKinsey reports warning
that the global economy can’t turn
back at least before 9 months.
Those factories lost their orders,
those who stored raw materials
they are already suffering and will
suffer till the next season. So, if the
government relaxes the loan payback
period, we may survive in 2021.
Textile Today: When all the
traditional marketing ways are
almost stopped, in this scenario,
how do you see the scopes of
alternative marketing i.e. utilizing
established platforms like Alibaba?
Abdullah Hil Rakib: COVID-19
absolutely will bring a 180-degree
shift in terms of thinking, strategy
of business, in terms of marketing,
in terms of going more digital
Norsel Textilmaschinen AG
NORSEL AG, Switzerland
Reduce the number of human error caused of hand writing on grey fabric.
Saving fabric wastage by decreasing of marking size.
No more re-working because of lost information on the fabrics.
No mix up of fabric roll and easy sorting.
Full control of fabric inventory.
Track and trace fabric roll through all textile process.
etc. Like we are now doing office
from home and this is totally a new
experience for the world. If we can
gain efficiency here, we can extend
our managerial support to the staff.
So, a crisis can create opportunity. Figure 2: Recently Team Group has
It also helps people to think distributed PPE (Personal Protective
Equipment) and hand sanitizers among the
over to be more sustainable in
doctors and nurses in 154 hospitals to fight
all aspects of life and peoples the fatal COVID-19 virus.
are getting more sensible to the
our industry strategies to build
environment also. This thinking
a sustainable industry after the
process will change the attitude
pandemic?
of customers about us because
Bangladesh has most green factories. Abdullah Hil Rakib: I think, those
who will survive 2020 and 2021
Of course, Alibaba, Amazon, eBay
then we will experience a balanced
etc. e-commerce companies have
environment of business and the
created opportunities for us. These
growth will be sustainable also.
platforms can connect us with the
After the pandemic, the pattern of
international buyers easily, can
the business will be more agile and
reduce our travel costs, establish
smooth. And ‘sustainability’ will
the digital communication modes
play a massive role.
among us. As a whole this will
reduce our operational costs Like we say responsible price,
and hopefully this e-commerce responsible wages, living wages
platform will bring a new etc. Those who will communicate
dimension in business for us. these with others, can brand
themselves will get ease in business
Textile Today: What should be
and will sustain for a long time.
www.norsel.com
BD hotline: +8801760385555
Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.
 Unveiling industry best practices Knitting & knitwear
April 2020
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 13, Issue 04 l Pages 61 to 78

The story of waste fabric It’s time to work for a common

(Jhoot): Positioning goal to attain the optimum
Bangladesh solution

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear
April 2020
Sweater segment hits
hard during COVID-19
pandemic
New PL-KF3B three end fleece circular
knitting machine
New PL-KF3B three end fleece circular
Knitting Machine

Sweater segment hits hard
during COVID-19 pandemic
Staff Correspondent
Bangladesh is the major supplier of sweater products
to the world and export approximately $5 billion
annually. Bangladesh over the last 30 years has
grown into a sweater hub with many entrepreneurs
invested heavily in sweater industries. But the well-
established readymade garments segment is greatly
affected due to coronavirus outbreak worldwide.
Figure: Approximately $5 billion sweater products are shipped
from Bangladesh.
“Coronavirus issues has started to impact badly our
sweater segment. As almost 80 percent of man-
made sweater yarns are imported mostly from China,”
said Mostafa Sobhan Rubel, Managing Director of
Dragon Group, a leading sweater exporter.
The lockdown in China had slowed down the import
process of raw materials into Bangladesh.
“And now with the spread of the virus globally
Bangladesh sweater exporters are in a dilemma as
from November till February which is an offseason
period for the sweater factories and usually, we
run and export below 50 percent capacity of our
installed capacity,” he said.
However, peak seasons which start from March till
October changes that trend completely as during
this period our factories are running on 100 percent
capacities with many factories engaging 2 or 3
shifts or even subcontracting from authorized and
approved factories.
"But Just as we were approaching our peak season
with huge orders booked till June and July, then
suddenly this virus stopped the entire world where
our sweaters are exported," Rubel also said.
“Due to the global shutdown some buyers are asking
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
S w e a t e r To d a y
us to keep the goods on hold and some are even
canceling orders, which were placed earlier,” said
another sweater exporter.
Further, March and April are the time when we
receive orders for July to October months. But in the
current global situation, no buyers are even placing
new orders or commitments to place orders.
It is predictable that at present situation sweater orders
may be completely wiped and many sweater factories
will be out of production for the entire peak season.
The result of which will be a calamitic collapse of
hundreds of sweater factories in Bangladesh and
tens of thousands of workers will lose their jobs.
According to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data,
in the fiscal year 2018-19, Bangladesh earned $4.25
billion from sweater export, which is 15.82% higher
compared to $3.67 billion the FY18.
Talking to Textile Today, sweater manufacturers
and trade analysts have opined that technological
upgradation has contributed a lot to increase the export
earnings, while extended winter expedites the growth.
According to the BKMEA leader almost all sweater
factories have installed the automated machine.
The sweater industries need to be incubated
immediately by the government through favorable
policies for at least the next 6 months so that it can
come out of this imminent crisis, sector leaders opined.
"After this cataclysmic event is over. Most of the
sweater manufacturers can come back strongly and
continue their contribution to nation-building by
increasing exports in the coming years," Mostafa
Sobhan Rubel concluded.
Bangladesh's sweater exports trends
Exports earnings in $ billion
5
4.25
4 3.67
3.36
2.93 3.18
2.82
3
2
1
0
2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17 2017-18 2018-19
63
Pai Lung Story
Pai Lung PL-KDPS-HP
high pile shearing offers
exhilarating performance
Pai Lung Story
PL-KDPS-HP offers exhilarating performance in
high pile with direct shearing function. With pure
Pai Lung refinement in combining the general loop
shearing technology, and high production ability,
now available with either a loop length of more than
10mm or a multi-feeder system - PL-KDPS-HP is
more accessible than any current wheel pressed less
feeder pile model.
Pai Lung has established the Knitel knitting head as
standard technology in the circular knitting machine.
PL-KDPS-HP is general equipped with the single cam
track on the dial and cylinder,
smooth cam surfaces, two yarn feeding carrier
system in loop and ground stitches are all suitable for
high pile structure in knitting process. High quality
of the machine frame helps to reach heavy loading
requirement.
64
This machine is based on double jersey knitting
structure, every two feeders as one unit. Different
gauge of dial and cylinder, brings the ground
structure more minutely and higher density. Pile
forming from original cylinder pile needle changed
to dial pile needle, lead the piles inwards, to prevent
piles down by anti-dust device while knitting. 4 cam
tracks in cylinder now, bring you more possibility in
ground face. We also placed the dial pile needle and
cutter in the same direction, loading between dial
and cylinder is decreased, RPM is raised, and less
debris will accumulate as well.
PL-KDSPS-HP can offer the unique adjustable system
with pile length 6mm~11mm. Fabrics from PL-KDPS-
HP can be applied for home textile like blanket,
industrial purpose, man-made fur apparels, and toys.
Now Bangladesh market has already imported this
model for mass export business.
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
 A Sustainable Value For Your Knits DTG 2020
|DATE |
CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE | SINGAPORE
28-31ST JANUARY, 2021
| LOCATION |
INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION
CITY BASHUNDHARA (ICCB)

| BOOTH |
HALL 7, BOOTH 7-177
Knitting Updates
Knitting
activity
amid
COVID-19
Sayed Abdullah
While most of the world
population in ‘stay at home’
various activities have resurfaced
and people are using the
opportunity to get creative like
knitting which use to consider as
things of past.
With time on their hands and
anxiety rising, people – men,
women and children – are turning
to knitting.
Experts agree that knitting is a
great stress reducer, focusing your
attention on the task at hand and
resulting in something tangible
you can be proud of. Amidst the
outbreak of COVID-19, knitting is
reducing stress immensely.
Dominican University professor
Susan Strawn told Boston’s WBUR
that social media made it likely for
knitters to be come together.
Global sales for We Are Knitters,
a brand known for its bagged
kits and vibrant community, have
increased more than 75% weekly.
And their Instagram witnessed
reach has increased by more
than 50 percent, reaching an all-
time high of three million unique
accounts, which signifies how
people are onto knitting while
stuck at home.
“To get started, all you need is yarn
and a pair of knitting needles,”
66
says Libby
Butler-Gluck A
Public Relations
and Marketing
Consultant in the
Craft Industry. It
is that easy.”
“So many times,
Figure: With time on their hands and anxiety rising, people –
people think,
men, women and children – are turning to knitting.
‘Oh, that’s what
grandmas do,
or that’s so old-school.’ But it’s
really a great way to relieve stress,
to express creativity,” said Dana
Williams-Johnson, a Howard
University professor and the
knitter behind the blog Yards of
Happiness.
“It’s nice to find people all over the
world that do things that you do,
share in the joy,” Williams-Johnson
added.
The need to create among people
explain the increasing interest
in craft generally. But not all
crafts are equal and, according
to Google, while dressmaking
queries stand at about 100,000 in
the UK, and sewing at 600,000,
knitting queries have reached over
a million a month. There must be
more to it.
The answer comes partly from
fashion. "You just have to look
at the catwalk to see that major
designers like Vivienne Westwood
Bangladesh Textile Today |
and Christopher Kane are putting
knitwear, especially crochet, back
into their main collections," says
Coats's Irving.
"It filters down to the collections
we offer, and to the high street
too." Consumers are seeing more
knitwear in the shops and wanting
to replicate it using their newfound
crafting skills,” he further adds.
Having something to divert
your attention like crafting is so
important. It’s been a lifeline for
me,” said Bullock, who started the
podcast Best Day Ever!
The new makerspace at Central
Library at Arlington County Public
Library has a variety of crafts and
materials people can use, among
them knitting needles.
There’s always a staff member
who can help with the equipment,
maker librarian Katelyn Attanasio
said. Besides, there are knitting
and crochet groups that meet
Volume 13, Issue 04
Knitting Updates

at different branches, as well as
groups and classes for other crafts.
Tips from knitters
People aged 25-40 usually buy kits
and people 40 and older normally
buy supplies. They already know
how to knit and want to make their
own designs.
As with every new skill, you need
to be patient in order to learn.
In the beginning you will make
mistakes but you can always start
over again. There are endless stitch
options; you just have to learn the
basics – knit and purl – and then
start combining them.
One of the best things about
knitting is that once you learn, you
will never forget; it’s like riding a
bicycle.
“If you’re going to take the time
to learn (how to knit), and you’re
going to make a sweater, then I say
make it great,” Williams-Johnson
said. “Make it something that
nobody else has. Make it you.”
Being able to experiment and
figure out how to make something
work for any size, shape or body
is one of the things that she loves
about knitting.
“I’m curvy. I’m short. So, I have
to figure out if I want to knit a
poncho, how do I make a poncho
look good on someone with my
frame and my height and not look
like I’m just drowning in yarn,”
Williams-Johnson said.
In fine, it is good to learn that
knitting is helping a lot of people
deal with these weird times in a
more positive and productive way.

Swedish School of Textiles combines

knitting creativity with technology
Desk Report

Swedish School of Textiles – which is a part of

the University of Borås – where the creativity of art is
combined with technology, with the school’s degree
programs covering the entire field of textiles, from design
through manufacturing to management and technology.

Swedish School of Textiles set up a very impressive

state of the art knitting laboratory.

The program is divided into three areas: design,

Figure: Swedish School of Textiles set up a very impressive state
engineering, and management. The school’s facilities of the art knitting laboratory.
feature modern lecture halls and well-equipped
advanced knitting, is all catered for.
laboratories that cater for everything related to textiles.
The knitting laboratory also takes part in research
“Research is of a high international standard and
and development projects. Prototype research for
focuses on sustainability – how can our research
external companies and organizations from around
contribute to a better world? Together with
the world is ongoing and the laboratory’s staff also
international research networks, we take a closer
guide Ph.D. students in specific research projects
look at consumer behavior, global markets, and how
where knitting is an important discipline.
we can improve our recycling of clothing, as well as
exploring new ways we can use textiles. This research
The circular knitting the laboratory is equipped
is also integrated into our master's programs. After
with a total of fourteen machines, including a range
graduation, students interested in research careers can
of standard machines as well as more specialized
apply for certain research programs,” the school explains.
machines like its Mayer & Cie metal knitting machine,
Relanit 0.8, Harry Lucas ‘stent knitting’ machine,
The Swedish School of Textiles’ knitting laboratory is one
and Mayer & Cie OVJA E ‘extreme inlay/filling 3D’
of the utmost modern and well-resourced in Europe.
machines. The laboratory’s latest investment is a
Three highly capable technicians, with extensive Mayer & Cie OVJA 1.6 EE machine.
industry experience, support academic staff in
The laboratory has five flat knitting machines
providing a ‘base education’ to each of the 300 or so
including Stoll CMS 822HP 5.2 knit and wear,
new students that join the school each year.
specially equipped CMS 330TC 6.2, CMS 330.6 gauge
Education in the specialization of fashion and textile 10, Shima Seiki SWG 091N Wholegarment machines.
design, textile engineering, master’s students, Its latest investment is a Stoll ADF 530KI gauge 7.2
exchange students, teaching programming and more (12-gauge needle hook).

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04 67

C o t t o n & Ya r n To d a y

Cotton and yarn update

It’s time to work for a common goal to attain the optimum solution.
Yarn market situation

Except for few exceptions, most spinning mills in

Bangladesh are closed since 25th March to safeguard
from the global healthcare pandemic. Definitely,
this would hurt them financially but would save
many lives which is a responsible move. On top of
that many garments orders have been canceled
this month and therefore there is very little delivery
pressure from the yarn buyers. Luckily most of the
spinning mills are having nominal yarn stock and
cotton stock. So, it would not be difficult to start
production once the garments orders resume back.

But spinning mills within a couple of months would

have to make their choices on meeting the bank
commitments, import commitments, collection of
receivables, wages and salaries and other issues
which during this time they can assess and make a
strategic plan to address the issues in future with
minimum difficulty. Some of it would be individual, Figure: The COVID-19 pandemic created a massive disruption in
the cotton and yarn sector.
and some collective that they can deal through
BTMA. Planning all those things would make things
easy and it’s time to work for a common goal
and our entrepreneurs would do the best for the
optimum solution.

Zhengzhou Commodity Exchange dropped below

10,000 Yuan/MT:

The most actively traded May cotton contract dipped

at 9,935 on 24th March due to the fear of potential
cancellation of orders as the spread of novel
coronavirus in major buying countries in Europe
and USA has compelled authorities to seal off the
Stimulus Package and ICE Index:
borders and shut down the apparel stores.
The entire World War II cost the entire world USD
2.50 trillion. On the contrary, the US Congress
is debating on a mammoth stimulus package of
USD 2-6 trillion to fight coronavirus and save
the US economy. Europe, Australia, Japan and
other countries are also trying to accommodate
stimulus package to bridge the lockdown situation.
Bangladesh has also declared a stimulus package
of BDT 50 Billion and hope over the time the world
economy would resume normal operation shortly
and needs full cooperation at all levels.

Since ICE Index came to 60s at the closure of Huston

Blumberg World GDP growth in 2020 Port a few weeks back. Subsequently increased
outbreak in Europe, the USA and other countries,
According to Chief Economist Tom Orlik, “A lot needs
forced lockdown situation resulted in the ICE Index
to go right” for global growth to rebound after the
to go down to 50s. On the contrary, the drop in oil
Corona Virus leads to a severe first-half contraction.
index would make manmade fiber competitive than
For now, they are predicting a 2% decline for the
cotton and reduce demand for cotton.
whole year.

68 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04

22-26 JUNE, 2021
 C o t t o n & Ya r n To d a y

In 2008 financial crisis ICE came down to 36.70 and demand and normal economic activity.
considering the already approved USD 2 trillion, out
of which USD 50 Billion specific to US Department So, mills may re-evaluate raw cotton requirements
of Agriculture; USD 25 Billion to Agriculture and USD of 2019/2020 crop once again and remain cautious.
25 Billion to Food Programs, it looks ICE may find For the 2020/2021 crop, we may look to fix the
some sort of protection. price at the current level of some percentage of
total quantity if available at a suitable level and also
But unless the world economy rebounds quickly remain long on
enough by putting a tap on the outbreak of volatility through
coronavirus globally and results in major clothing options (Put and Author
buying countries in Europe, USA and other regions Call) depending on
open the borders, free movement of goods, services, the risk appetite.
and the apparel stores for normal operation, ICE We are passing
could even experience free fall as demand for cotton through the
could come to a pause. greatest economic
challenges and
Fixation strategy it requires very
special attention.
ICE would remain volatile with the changes of
May Allah forgive
pandemic situation and world economic recovery,
us and save us all
world demand for clothing-cotton, cotton plantation Abdul Wadud
from the pandemic
intentions of different countries, and the changes of CEO & Management Consultant
at the earliest.
weather in the coming months. But the key to the TRANSFORM
Suvo Bangla
trend of ICE lies with the import demand of cotton
Noboborsha.
from China and the recovery of global clothing

We are focused to provide consultancy services for any

business but specialized in spinning. We are equipped
to find solutions for problems and develop necessary
strategy, system, and people for the transformation of
TRANSFORM

the organization for long term sustainability.

In pursue to transform business and professionals for

better performance and sustainability.
Contact: 01730357699
E-mail: abdul.wadud@anwargroup.net
Y a r n & F a b r i c To d a y
TK35bn worth of yarn,
fabrics piled in mills
Staff Correspondent
Bangladeshi spinning mills
are facing the brunt of the
countrywide curve of movement
to contain the Coronavirus cases.
Bangladesh Textile Mills
Association (BTMA) President,
Mohammad Ali Khokon revealed
a grim picture in a letter which he
prepared to submit to the finance
ministry and other government
offices next week.
“Around TK35billion worth of yarn,
fabrics piled in 250 spinning and
weaving mills. And some 1.5 million
people have been directly affected by
the dip in sales in the primary textile
sector,” Khokon stressed in a letter.
In the letter, Mohammad Ali
Khokon requested the withdrawal
of VAT on all kinds of yarn and
fabrics sold between March 20 and
June 30 this year.
BTMA President also sought
exemption of interest on term
loans for six months and extension
of term loan repayment period by
two years for the affected millers.
Local millers were preparing for
the upcoming festivals of Pahela
Baishakh (first day of the Bangla
calendar) and Eid-ul Fitr. As the
calamity fallen millers mainly
produce yarn and fabrics for the
local market said Khokon.
Of the 450 BTMA-member
spinning mills, 250 were in a fix, as
they produce fabrics and yarn for
products such as lungi, sari, salwar
kameez and fatua.
The situation was the same for 500
of the 850 weaving mills which
produce fabrics for the local markets.
This has oozed down on some 200
units of dyeing and finishing mills
which mainly assist these spinning
and weaving mills, Khokon said.
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
Exemption of interest on term
Withdrawal of VAT on
loans for six months
all kinds of yarn and
fabrics sold between
March 20 and June 30
Withdrawing of all demurrage fees for
imports at the Chattogram port
Allow payment of utility
bills for next 6 months
starting from March in
12 monthly installments
while withdrawing
associated VAT, interest
Extension of term loan repayment period
and surcharge
by two years
Figure: BTMA proposals to revive primary textile sector.
The government has already government should facilitate the
forced a ban on big gatherings to duty-free import of textile dyes and
celebrate the Pahela Baishakh. It is chemicals until June 30 this year.
a hard blow for the spinning and
The BTMA President also urged
weaving millers as the occasion
the govt. for withdrawing all
draws around Tk 15 billion worth of
demurrage fees for imports at the
clothing sale, Khokon emphasized
Chattogram port between March
the losses the millers might endure.
20 and June 30 this year.
He also drew attention to the fact
AKM Salim Osman, president
that millers may miss the other
of the Bangladesh Knitwear
major clothing sales events this
Manufacturers and Exporters
year, as the government may
Association (BKMEA), in a
restrict the celebrations of Eid-ul
statement recently said the
Fitr also.
association's member factories
In the letter, he also demanded to would be able to run their units
allow payment of utility bills like after April 4 while ensuring
gas and electricity for the next adequate health safety measures
six months starting from March for workers.
in 12 monthly installments while
The BKMEA also strongly
withdrawing associated VAT,
suggested its members clear
interest and surcharge.
workers' wages for March in time
Besides, Khokon included that the to avert any labor unrest.
71
The Story of Jhoot
The story of
waste fabric
(Jhoot):
Positioning
Bangladesh
Reverse Resources (RR), an
Estonia-based software company
in one of their studies quoted
“Garment waste management
exemplifies the idea of one
man’s trash being another man’s
treasure. If tapped correctly, it has
the potential of bringing in US$4
billion annually for Bangladesh.”
They were discussing the
potential of Jhoot export since
the idea to turn the scraps into
materials is getting momentum
in today’s fashion world. The idea
is, immediately after a garment
factory finishes production of one
cycle of orders from a buyer, it
gets rid of the waste (i.e. Jhoot)
in the interest of production
efficiency, moving onto the next
cycle leaving a business potential
of it if demand is created.
The RR further elucidated in
their study that more than 25% of
materials are discarded in fabric and
garment factories, which can go up
to 47% in some cases. In a practical
situation, the major part of fabric
waste come out from the process
of the cutting of fabric following
certain design and pattern of the
market and some of the waste.
72
The study further sheds light on
the average production ecosystem
of a factory creating room for
cutting waste while producing
several products. Say for instance,
while a factory bought 272.4 m2 of
textile to produce the 100 t-shirts,
and 44.57 m2 of that material
ended up as cutting waste.
Moreover, about 6.37 percent of
waste was leftover from sewing
(14.71 m2 from the 227.83 m2 of
Figure 1: Garment waste management exemplifies the idea of one man’s trash being
another man’s treasure. If tapped correctly, it has the potential of bringing in US$4 billion
annually for Bangladesh. Courtesy: planetaid.org
Bangladesh Textile Today |
cut fabric sent to sewing) and
0.09 percent from quality control.
However, these calculations also
depend on the product type
(e.g. t-shirt, jacket), size of the
given product (e.g. XL, S) and
efficiency of cutting master and
workers. Given the facts, it is
understandable that the quantity
of leftovers per annum is immense.
According to an estimated
optimistic scenario by the study,
they revealed that the world
would create approximately 40
billion square meters of leftover
textiles per year, almost enough
to cover the entire Republic of
Estonia (i.e. RR originated from
Estonia) with waste. Additionally,
they put forward a mean prediction
and found that the leftovers would
amount to 80 billion square meters.
Coming to Bangladesh, the Jhoot
export has been increasing by
around 15% to 20% a year for
the last five years. There is no
official data available about
garment manufacturing by-
products. According to the Export
Promotion Bureau (EPB) data,
the country exported Jhoot or
RMG waste worth US$64.95
million in fiscal year (FY) 2018-19,
US$56.68 million in FY 2017-18,
US$52.81 million in FY 2016-17 and
US$44.20 million in FY 2015-16.
Volume 13, Issue 04
The Story of Jhoot
Jhoot opportunity for BD
US$4 billion, has 15% to 20%,
the potential of increasing of annual
annual export Jhoot export
In the past five months of the
previous fiscal, around US$33
million worth of Jhoot were shipped
abroad. The figure would likely
reach around US$70 million at the
end of FY ’20, according to EPB.
Provided Bangladesh being the
second biggest garment exporter
globally, it is obvious that its
garment industry produces a large
quantity of waste fabric (Jhoot)
which is being used by the local
recycled yarn manufacturers use
to produce raw material for those
into making and exporting towels,
curtains and the likes.
According to the Bangladesh
Garment and Textile Waste
Exporters Association (BGTWEA),
the market size of RMG by-
products is around Tk 20 billion.
Furthermore, the Bangladesh
Garment Manufacturers and
Exporters Association (BGMEA)
sources said some 4,000 active
Jhoot export scenario
In US$ million
70 64.95
56.68
56
42
28
14
0 quilts, etc., depend on imported
FY 2018-19 FY 2017-18
74
Lot of job
opportunities for
underprivileged people
RMG units are producing over
351,000 tons of by-products.
In the context of Bangladesh,
Jhoot or waste are available from
two sources, (1) colored cotton
waste (HS Code 5202.99.00)
and (2) white sorted waste (HS
Code 6310.10.00). There are two
categories of Jhoot, one comes
from woven fabrics and another
from knit fabrics. The price of
‘Woven Jhoot’ is low, but the price
of ‘Knit Jhoot’ is comparatively high.
They are sold as an alternative
to cotton yarn in the local
market. The advantage is that
cotton prices are high, but
Jhoot is cheaper. Reportedly,
Bangladesh Textile & Garments
Waste Processors & Exporters
Association (BTGWPEA) claimed
to have exporting 90% of total
waste and white sorted waste (HS
Code 6310.10.00) of 10% is raw
materials in making yarn.
52.81
44.2
FY 2016-17 FY 2015-16
Source: EPB
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Presently, a typical Bangladeshi
factory produces around 250
-300 kg of waste fabric per day.
Reportedly, the price of waste cloth
depends on quality and size, starting
from Tk10 and going up to Tk300
per kilogram of Jhoot. Large scraps
of fabrics are sold to local traders to
make garments for children.
Most of these children’s clothes
are sold in Bangladesh, but some
are exported to India. Moreover,
Dhaka’s bedding industry is
dependent on jhoot. Furthermore,
products like mattresses, pillows,
cushions, seat stuffing and
padding in cars, public buses and
rickshaws use recycled cloth and
processed cotton.
The positive thing is any piece
of cloth we can recycle. There is a
huge demand for wastes of T-shirts.
In this connection, various clusters
have been established around
the country. To name a significant
cluster, Pabna must be mentioned.
There, hundreds of small
entrepreneurs in many villages
have created jobs for 25,000
to 30,000 people and annually
produce 18 crores to 20 crores
pieces of garments, mostly
T-shirts, worth around Tk 1,200
crore to Tk 1,500 crore. There
are more than 1,000 small and
big garment factories in several
villages in the district.
Bottlenecks, possibilities and way
forwards
• Earlier, there was a big local
market for recycled yarns as
factories producing gamcha
(towel), lungi, quilt and curtains
used to rely on the recycled
material, but they are now
turning to imported yarns.
However, an increasing trend
of such wastes being exported
has left such recycled yarn
producers high and dry forcing
many home furnishing and
those manufacturing towels,
yarns for their raw material
requirements.
Volume 13, Issue 04
 The Story of Jhoot

• According to industry-insiders,
when they first started recycled
yarn production in 2003, there
was no modern technology.
But, considering the local textile
sector has been feeling the heat
of Chinese and Indian yarn, they
are now trying to diversify their
business. In this circumstance, they
now feel the need for modernized
factories to produce recycled
yarns from RMG jhoot which is
mostly subject to have timely
support from the government.

• Small hosiery traders do not get

soft loans or cash credit loans.
Therefore, they are compelled
to borrow money from other
sources at high-interest rates.
• Jhoot business is controlled by
politically-backed local leaders
and gangsters, which has led
to unrest and even murder over
the control of the business. It
is worth mentioning that the
business of reusing wasted
cloth is a three-step process.
First, a person, usually a locally
influential person, collects the
cloth forcibly or via negotiations,
then it is sold to the reuse or
recycling business and then the
final product is sold to different
consumers and exported.
After collection, the process of
recycling starts with sorting, which
is done by the color, type and
size of the fabric. Larger scraps of
cloth are used to make children’s
frocks, skirts, shirts, pajamas and
sometimes pillow covers.
• Some sector leaders urged the
government to ban the export
of RMG by-products and to take
steps to offer financial support
to set up recycling factories. The
government may look into this issue
consulting both the backward and
forward linkage players.
• 
Giving formal shape to the
informal sector would reduce
criminality in the jhoot trade,
reduce operational risks and draw
in much-needed investment.
• Using waste from one cycle
of production in the next
Figure 2: Filotex Ltd., a Bangladeshi model garment factory is producing luxurious
recycled products to be used for home furnishing and upholstery since 2014 using
sophisticated recycling technology from valuable ‘cutting waste’ of garments industry.
through re-manufacturing
involves practical challenges
but recycling it surely has a
business potential within the
country's garment sector. In
this connection, ensuring the
efficiency of the garment sector
can save a huge amount of
foreign currency form import
of fabric or yarn or cotton and
value addition of garment could
be higher.
• Many hi-tech factories have
been set-up in India and China
to re-process garment 'Jhoot'.
These factory owners import
their raw-materials mainly
from Bangladesh. So, this
is an opportune area where
Bangladesh can explore the
potential of processed Jhoot.
• At present about very few
spinning mills are in production
and there are enough jhoot
to feed more few dozen mills.
So, it is of critical essence that
Bangladesh should focus on
setting up more spinning mills
for ensuring optimum use of
the entire jhoot for the re-
production of yarns.
• Waste to energy is an emerging
area to explore in the context
of the industrial environmental
management system. The good
news is, our few readymade
garments (RMG) factories have
started using cutting wastes,
popularly known as jhoot, to
run boilers amid short supply of
natural gas - presently the main
energy source for the boilers.
Astonishingly, the efficiency level
of the less dust dischargeable and
smoke-free jhoot fired boilers is
more than 80%.
In conclusion, there is nothing
called waste that existed in this
competitive world. And, considering
Bangladesh’s home-grown potential
in the textile and garment sector,
expediting the potential of waste
fabric is a timely demand.
Author
Sabbir Rahman Khan
Research Associate,
Bangladesh Foreign Trade
Institute (BFTI)

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04 75

E x p o r t s To d a y

Sheima Seiki releases data for

Wholegarment knitting masks
Arif-Uz-Zaman

Shima Seiki from Wakayama, Wholegarment masks are superior

Japan, a leading manufacturer
of computerized flatbed knitting
machine industry has released
knitting data of producing 3D
knitted version masks in light of
the recent worldwide shortage of
surgical masks due to the outbreak
of Novel Coronavirus.
The released data represents
producing masks on its
Wholegarment knitting machine
made of cotton masks knitted
on SWG041N2, SWG061N2, and
SWG091N2. These are also known
as Wholegarment Mini type
machines that are suited to the
production of small accessory
items, in 15 gauge.
According to the press release,
these data can be downloaded
from Shima Seiki User’s Site where
there are over 10,000 knit samples
are archived for use by Shima Seiki
Customers.
These seam-free 3D
in terms of fitting and comfort. The
ear straps are knitted in one piece
together which reduces stress on
the ears and in this quick response
production, it is required no further
swing. For viruses and other filtering,
a filter pouch is also knitted.
These cotton knitted masks are
washable and reusable repeatedly.
However, it should be noted that
knit masks do not have viruses
and pollen filtration functionality
like common non-woven surgical
masks. These are mainly used for the
prevention of coughing and sneezing
and reducing exposure to allergens.

New Head of Textile Technology at USTER

Desk Report

Baldischwieler is an experienced are a fundamental part of the com-

textile technologist and manager.
His entire career has been
dedicated to the development and
promotion of the textile industry,
in a number of senior roles.
After working as Mill Manager
for the German textile producer
Lauffenmühle and as Technical
Director and Chief Operating
Officer at spinning mill Hermann
Bühler, Baldischwieler joined Uster
Technologies in 2017, says a recent
press release.
As Product Manager for In-line
Process Control, he has been
responsible for a large part of the
USTER portfolio. “The past three
years have been a great opportu-
nity for me to get to know Uster
Technologies as a company, to
become familiar with the systems
and solutions and to appreci-
ate the immense know-how and
service capacities,” Baldischwieler
says.
For USTER, value-added services
pany philosophy: “The job is not
complete just by developing great
innovative products. We need to
make sure that our customers
learn how to use them effectively
and efficiently every day,” he says.
Uster Technologies offers a wide
range of textile services and sup-
port to its customers and partners.
These include the USTER® STATIS-
TICS global benchmarks, labora-
tory testing services, and textile
training and consulting programs.
A worldwide team of more than 50
textile technologists, together with
more than 200 service engineers,
is taking care of 4,500 customers Figure: Textile industry expert Oswald
Baldischwieler will focus on value-added
in 75 countries – working at cus- services for customers.
tomer sites or in USTER laborato-
ries – conducting training, carrying Head of Textile Technology,” says
out tests and providing application Thomas Nasiou, Chief Executive
know-how. Officer of Uster Technologies. “Our
Textile Technology is a core ele-
“For USTER, it is a great pleasure ment of USTER – it is where all our
and a unique opportunity, to work textile know-how comes from and
together with someone as experi- where our customers receive the
enced as Oswald Baldischwieler as special support they appreciate.”

76 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04

A p p o i n t m e n t To d a y
Cematex elects permanent
Secretary-General
Desk Report
Figure: Cornelia Buchwalder has been elected as
new permanent Secretary-General.
A new secretary general has
been elected by CEMATEX, an
organisation comprising nine
national European textile machinery
associations (Acimit; Amec-Amtex,
BTMA, GTM, Swissmem, Symatex,
TMAS, UCMTF, VDMA) which
headquarter located in Zurich.
Cornelia Buchwalder has served
on an interim basis since June
2019, following the retirement of
Maria Avery, and was chosen to
the permanent position by the
CEMATEX Board on March 12.
AATCC launches new Testing Resource List
Desk Report
AATCC is offering a new benefit
to AATCC Corporate Members
and users of AATCC standards.
Introducing the Testing Resource
List, the newest addition to the
AATCC Buyer’s Guide. The Testing
Resource List is free to access,
connecting users globally to
Corporate Member suppliers, says a
recent press release.
AATCC quality control products
AATCC quality control products
including color evaluation tools,
detergents, standard control
fabrics, and more, can be purchased
She has a wide knowledge of
the global textile equipment
sector, having managed
the Swiss Textile Machinery
Association since 2013 and
been closely involved in
organising participation at
the major global trade shows
and various international
events. Her experience takes
in the ITMA (the world’s
largest international textile
machinery exhibition which
is also owned by CEMATEX)
exhibitions in Europe at
Milan (2015) and Barcelona
(2019), as well as three ITMA
Asia + CITME fairs, in 2014,
2016 and 2018.
She will continue to combine
the two posts as Secretary General
of both Swiss Textile Machinery and
of CEMATEX.
“I am very pleased with the
new permanent appointment of
Cornelia Buchwalder, and I am
confident the industry will continue
to benefit from her knowledge,
dedication, energy and enthusiasm,
as we face the ongoing challenges
of delivering the best textile
technology to our manufacturing
partners worldwide”, said by
CEMATEX President Fritz P. Mayer.
at https://www.aatcc.org/products/.
List your company in the Testing
Resource List
Are you a supplier of products
listed in the AATCC Technical
Manual? Could you benefit from
customers finding your product?
List your products in the AATCC
Testing Resource List by joining
as a Corporate Member. Already
a Corporate Member? Contact us
today to make sure you are listed.
Please note, this guide is updated
on a rolling basis with new vendors.
 GROUP
We are Providing
Turnkey Solutions for any
Garments Industry, Commercial
and RESIDENTIAL COMPLEX.
DESIGN | CONSTRUCTION | CERTIFICATION
Why ECORAY ?
When comparing our capabilities and proposed solution to
Services:
Feasibility study for factory designing
Bank proposal preparation
that of competitors, the benefits of choosing ECORAY are: Master plan for Industrial design
Industrial layout design
Service reliability in top level. Architectural design
All the professionals are truly qualified and experienced. Electrical design
Mechanical design (HVAC, ETP, WWTP, WTP, STP, RWH system)
Short time to completion.
Plumbing design
Provide more alternative options. Fire system design
Lower Implementation Cost. Construction works
12/7 Hours Client Support. LEED certification by USGBC (New and Existing building)
Successful Track Record. Garments Production and Efficiency Development Program

Brand Image in Market. Green Building Design

Practical Experience of successful completion of USGBC ECORAY serving Green building design from USGBC LEED aspect.
LEED Certified projects in Bangladesh.
Impacts
The highest Bangladesh experiences as a Local.
Environmentally effective use of building materials
Most economical as well established in Bangladesh. Lower electric and water utility costs
Operating under 100% ethical business practices as per law Enhanced physical and emotional health
of our country. Increased productivity
Strength to serve for long time projects with a larger Long term economic returns
professional manpower base. Reduced environmental impact
Vast amount of practical evidences in Bangladesh market Some of our Clients-
for our capability with educated local references. 1. Saiham Group.
Good Knowledge of local culture. 2. Well Group.
3. Mim Group.
Self-sufficient in terms of all logistic requirements.
4. Team Group.
5. Sadma Group.
Our Concern- 6. Sharmin Group.
4. Ecoray Agro. 7. Msc Icon Tower (52 Storied Commercial Building)
1. Ecoray Construction Ltd.
8. Perkz Denim.
2. Ecoray Sustainability. 5. Ecoray Dairy. 9. Skyline Group
And Design Ltd. 6. Ecoray Fisheries. 10. Expo Accessories Ltd
7. Ecoray Automobiles. 11. Preen El Arte Ltd.(Printing Factory).
3. Ecoray Fashions. 12. Dsl Sweaters Ltd
13. Cittizen Tower (17 Storied Commercial Building)
+++ 65 projects

Address
House-456 (GF), Road # 31, New DOHS Mohakhali, Dhaka.
Cell: +88 01711 948 073; +88 01920 109 882
Email: khaled.ecoray@gmail.com
subrota.ecoray@gmail.com

Local Support and Less Expenditure for LEED Certification.

SM A Member of USGBC (U.S. Green Building Council)
 Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion
April 2020

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 13, Issue 04 l Pages 79 to 93 January 2020
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 13, Issue 01 l Pages 97 to 106

The new keys to successful

The fallout for
printing environments:
Corona is
enormous for
apparel sector

Fashion becomes
standstill amidst
Coronavirus
pandemic

Factors constitute
placement printing pricing

Prospect of 3D fabricAinpotential
AT
Medical textile:
global fashion industry
segment to grow April 2020
Unveiling industry best practices
Apparel accessories & fashion
A p p a r e l To d a y
The fallout for Corona is
enormous for apparel sector
Textile Today Analysis
The world people have been
going through an unprecedented
situation of lockdown due to
dangerous Coronavirus. The whole
world is just in a standstill due
to fear of Coronavirus fear. The
economy of the world also faces
unexpected lockdown as most
of the flights globally have been
either suspended or canceled.
Factories, industries, shopping
malls, restaurants, food courts and
what not have been closed. People
are fearing of losing their jobs and
companies are fearing shutdown
their operations.
Governments of almost all
countries are facing challenges to
keep alive in their economies. The
International Labor Organization
(ILO) already said 25 million
people of the world will lose their
jobs due to bad fallouts of corona.
Some said the number is very
conservative. More people will
lose their jobs than the number of
estimations by the ILO.
Bangladesh is not insulated from
the impacts of Corona
Bangladesh is not an exception
from this Coronavirus fallouts.
Being the second-largest apparel
supplier worldwide after China,
Bangladesh's economy is one of
the major sufferers from the bad
impact of the Coronavirus because
of supply chain disruption. Stores
in the shopping malls in the major
export destinations like in Europe
and the US have been shut down.
So, the apparel export has
been facing problems both in
production in the factories,
shipment and distribution to the
major export destinations. The
chain impacts have also been felt
at the factory level. So far, the
international clothing retailers
and brands have already canceled
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
Figure: Stores in the shopping malls in the major export destinations like in Europe and
the US have been shut down.
work orders worth nearly $3 billion
from more than 1000 factories
affecting nearly 4.0 million
workers.
More work orders might be
canceled in the near future from
Bangladesh. If the situation does
not improve soon many factories
will face further challenges.
Decision by BGMEA, BKMEA and
DIFE
With the given situation,
Bangladesh Garment
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association (BGMEA)
recommended its members
to consider shutting down the
production units. However,
the factories those which have
booking of work orders from
international retailers and brands
can continue the production with
provided adequate health safety
measures to protect them from the
attack of Coronavirus, BGMEA said
in a statement. In a statement,
BGMEA also said the factories
those which are engaged in the
production of Personal Protective
Equipment can also continue
production in the factories. The
Department of Inspection for
Editorial
Factories and Establishment
(DIFE) also echoed with the views
of BGMEA. Many factories were
run after the announcement. But
many could not run as the workers
did not join their workplaces.
Bangladesh Knitwear
Manufacturers and Exporters
Association suggested its
members to shut down the
factories up to April 4 as per the
government's announcement of a
general public holiday with effect
from March 26.
Government's good move to face
the fallouts
The factory owners have been
planning how to run their business
after the Coronavirus although
the government has already
announced for a stimulus package
at Tk5,000crore for all export-
oriented sectors to face the
fallouts of corona.
The factory owners are in trouble
with how to pay the workers
as they cannot ship the goods
timely. Many owners have already
shut down their production units
fearing the virus attack or many
are planning to close the factories
81
Apparel Updates
due to lack of work orders and
some of the factories are thinking
how to minimize their operational
costs once the virus fear is over.
Reactions from the exporters
How will the government decision
protect their business? In reply,
Shahidul Haque Mukul, Managing
Director, Adams Apparels Ltd said,
“If the government considers the
Tk5,000 crore as a loan it will not
serve the real purpose.”
"So, we are worried. It will be very
difficult to obtain the money from
this fiscal package of Tk5,000
crore as the government will
impose a lot of conditions with the
money," Mukul also said.
Many factory owners will not feel
encouraged to take a loan from
the announced Tk5,000 crore
due to conditions, he added. The
factory owners are in trouble now
because of Corona.
Anwar ul Alam Chowdhury
(Parvez), former BGMEA
President, also said the garment
exporters are in trouble because
the international retailers and
Inditex to make scrubs for Spain’s
coronavirus-stretched hospitals
Desk Report
Zara owner Inditex may soon be
stitching hospital scrubs, helping
its home country Spain fight the
coronavirus epidemic.
Inditex last week informed that the
epidemic had shut nearly half its
stores around the world.
It was studying converting part of
its textile manufacturing capacity
in Spain to produce hospital
gowns. It also said it would make
available to Spain its vast logistics
and supplier network, especially in
China, to “meet Spain’s emergency
needs of both medical and textile
materials” such as protective
82
brands have been canceling the
work orders.
So, it is difficult for them to survive
this critical time, Parvez also said.
Moreover, it will take a long time
to get back normalcy in the major
export destinations like in Europe
and the US.
"So, the government should
consider these issues before
deciding on a stimulus package for
the export-oriented sectors of the
country so that we can survive,"
Parvez said.
Mostafiz Uddin, Managing Director
Denim Expert said recently,
"Corona is a pandemic and all
the denim producing countries of
the world are suffering from the
outbreak of the virus. So, whether
an individual country will lose
competitiveness or not it’s too
early to comment. It will depend
on how good the countries face
the challenge and what measures
they take to respond to it.”
"Due to the COVID-19, the 12th
edition of Bangladesh Denim
Expo, which was scheduled to be
Figure: Zara owner Inditex will be stitching
hospital scrubs, helping its home country
Spain fight the coronavirus epidemic.
masks, gloves, goggles and caps.
It said it had already donated
10,000 masks and another
300,000 were due to be sent by
the end of the week.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
held on 6th and 7th April 2020,
has already been postponed. The
new dates of the expo will be
announced when the situation
improves," Uddin said.
“Western unions thought, china
is finished, but it was not, china
contained it and meanwhile
western countries got affected.
Chinese are buying shares of
western giants whose major
manufacturing is in China, India
and Bangladesh,” said Anis Ansari,
Sr. General Manager, Operations at
Ha-Meem Group.
He also said, “The sub continents
will not be able to contain soon
due to poor infrastructure, high
density of populations and hiding
actual info. Eventually, India and
Bangladesh will get hampered
most, the western world will put
severe restrictions of NRI, NRB, will
withdraw manufacturing here.”
“Only alternate is the fastest
invention of medicine to cure
Covid-19. Sub-continent may
recover Economic Pandemic,” he
highlighted the way outs of the
crisis.
Spain has been affected more by
the coronavirus than any other
European country except Italy and
accounts for the fashion retailer’s
largest network of stores by far.
The latest figures from the Spanish
Health Ministry on Monday
(23 March) put the number of
coronavirus infections in Spain
at 33,089, with 2,355 patients in
intensive care and 2,182 dead.
The number of fatalities rose by
462 in the past 24 hours, a spike
of 26.8%, making Monday the
deadliest day since the coronavirus
epidemic broke out in Spain.
Volume 13, Issue 04
 Recycling Is Priority

Shimanto Shambhar, 8th Floor,

BGB Gate No 4, Pilkhana,
Road No. 2, Dhanmondi
Dhaka-1205 , Bangladesh
Phone : +88-09666774400
Email : info@dalbd.com
F a s h i o n To d a y

Fashion becomes
standstill amidst
Coronavirus pandemic
Rakibul Islam

Fashion has come to a near

standstill amidst the Coronavirus
pandemic, especially for niche
brands like Zurhem. Both stores
of the brand are shut, so those
businesses are zero.

Zurhem is a Bangladeshi luxury

fashion brand, founded in 2015
by Mehruz Munir (Creative
Director) and Saadat Chowdhury
(Chairman). Zurhem currently
operates two ateliers in Dhaka – in
Banani and at Inter Continental
Dhaka.

Since its inception, Zurhem has

gained the recognition as the
finest suit-maker in the country
through the use of Italian bespoke
techniques, German horsehair
interlining, and the best quality
superwool fabric from upscale
mills such as Zegna, Cerruti,
Piacenza, Holland and Sherry and
the likes.
Zurhem’s clientele includes
fashion-forward individuals who
appreciate rich quality and artistic
designs. Representing Bangladesh
on a global platform, Zurhem
made evening gowns for Miss
Universe Bangladesh and also
for the Bangladesh Cricket Board
(BCB).
Currently, in its fourth year,
Zurhem employs about 100
workers including members of the
transgendered community.
Since 2016, Zurhem has been
holding grand fashion shows and
events, in association with BMW
Figure: Zurhem has gained the recognition as the finest suit-maker in Bangladesh.
and British American Tobacco. In
2017, the brand became the first
from Bangladesh to be featured
in Forbes US and in 2019, Munir
received ‘The Best International
Designer’ award from the British-
Bangladeshi Fashion Council.
“2020 will be an extremely
challenging year for us,” said
Saadat Chowdhury.
“We are working remotely
trying to keep our design and
production process moving along
keeping the Eid festivals in mind.
We’re not making any long-term
financial commitments until we
have visibility around what the
economic situation looks like,” said
Saadat Chowdhury.
“In China, we saw how long it took
for them to recover and reopen.
It gives us some ideas of what
to expect. Even though we plan
to pay salaries to all workers and
employees for the next three
months, it is also an opportunity
for us to be a little leaner, to be
more focused – figure out who our
key team players are, who can help
us grow. We are also focusing to
shift into digital gear and boost
online sales.”
“This is a disruption on a global
level that we have never seen
before. While we delay our plans
of setting up a bigger factory to
manufacture and export value-
added designer items for private
labels all over the world, we also
request the government and banks
to help us survive until all of this is
over because hopefully fashion will
pick up again and people will have
a renewed interest supporting
brands they love,” he concluded.

84 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04


H&M closes all UK stores
Akhi Akter
Swedish fashion retailer Hennes &
Mauritz AB will temporarily close
all its physical outlets in the UK as a
result of the coronavirus pandemic.
The retailers that have closed
their stores in UK
H&M closing all stores
Topshop closing all 300 stores
Calvin Klein closing all stores
IKEA closing all 22 stores
Miss Selfridge closing all stores
Starbucks closing all UK
branches
John Lewis closing all 50 stores
Burton closing all stores
Oxfam closing all 600 charity
shops
Clarks closing all 441 stores
Fenwick closing all stores
Dorothy Perkins closing all
stores
Sweaty Betty closing all stores
TK Maxx closing all 349 stores
Evans closing all stores
Wallis closing all stores
Smart Group of Industries making one
lakh surgical jackets for doctors
Sabbir Hossain
Smart Jacket (BD) Limited is
making one lakh sets of surgical
jackets for doctors to fight the
coronavirus after getting orders
from the Health Ministry.
The company, a concern of
Smart Group of Industries, had
ready items of 50,000 sets of
surgical jackets in stock at their
factory in Chattogram located at
Chattogram Export Processing
Zone (CEPZ). They delivered those
yesterday afternoons.
“We regularly manufacture surgical
jackets for an American buyer. The
Health Ministry on Monday asked
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
Figure: H&M shut all 460 stores in
Germany, 590 stores in the U.S and its all
stores in UK are closed.
The decision comes after the
retailer said it would shut all 460
stores in Germany, 590 stores
in the U.S. as well as shops in
Canada, Portugal and Belgium.
Germany is the company’s largest
market, followed by the U.S. and
the U.K.
So, it means the retailer has closed
its stores in its three biggest
markets. The chain says stores
will be closed for an initial two-
week period and then it will review
the situation based on the latest
government advice.
“We’ll decide what happens next
based on the latest advice from the
U.K. government and the World
us to make one lakh sets and after
receiving the order we delivered
50000 sets, which were already
prepared earlier for export,”
Mujibur Rahman, Director of the
company, said.
He said about 11,000 workers are
working at the factory and it is
possible to produce on average of
20,000 sets of such jackets per day.
Expressing his hope, he said,
“We will be able to deliver the
remaining 50,000 sets of surgical
jackets within Thursday.”
“We are not concerned about the
Apparel Updates
Health Organization,” H&M said.
The high street chain says it is
currently offering free standard
delivery and free and flexible
returns on all hm.com orders to
homes or designated pick-up point.
Also, it has extended its returns
policy from 28 to 100 days for both
in store and online purchases.
A notice on the store’s website
said: “These last few weeks have
been completely unprecedented.
“We have been working hard to
make the right decisions under
difficult circumstances, and we hope
that we have so far got this right.
“Given how the situation has
developed over this past week, we
have decided to temporarily close our
stores in the UK.
“Our stores will be closed from
21st March.
“This will be for an initial period
of two weeks, and then we’ll
decide what happens next based
on the latest advice from the UK
government and the World Health
Organisation.”
Figure: Smart Jacket (BD) Limited is making
one lakh sets of surgical jackets for doctors.
profit for this consignment since it
is an urgent need for the country
in this crucial time,” the Director
said, adding that “The health
ministry assured us of bearing the
manufacturing cost.”
85
M e d i c a l Te x t i l e s
Medical textile: A potential
segment to grow
Rafiul Islam
After 100 years, the world is
experiencing another pandemic
disease caused by the COVID-19
virus in 2020. Till now almost in
199 countries, this virus has been
found. Some countries are severely
suffering like USA, Italy, Spain, Iran,
China, the UK, etc. Commonly all
affected countries are sufferings
for inadequate medical safety
gears. The doctors need to wear
Personal Protective Equipment
(PPE), Disposal gloves, Mask for
the treatment of corona affected
people. But unfortunately, all are in
life risk due to a shortage of these
pieces of equipment.
Figure: The global medical textiles market is projected to grow significantly in the
coming years.
So, the pandemic also creates
a scope for the Bangladesh
textile and apparel industry to
manufacture fabrics and garments
to meet global medical textile
demands. Already Bangladesh
86
has proved that it can grab the
segment.
Medical textile
Medical textile also is known as
bio-medical textiles which is a
mixture of textile technology and
medical science. The main purpose
of medical textile is to improve
human health and wellness. Major
functions of medical textiles are
health care, hygiene, new fiber
technology and artificial medical
textile products. Medical textile is
the fastest growing sector for its
demand.
Types of fabric used in medical
textile
Different types of fabrics are used
in medical textiles. But mainly four
types of fabrics are mostly used in
Bangladesh Textile Today |
medical textiles. These are-
1. Woven
2. Non-woven
3. Braided
4. Knitted
Properties of the medical textile
as follows:
• Medical textiles must be non-
toxic and non-allergenic.
• It must be compatible with the
most living system.
• It should be sterilized without
imparting any change in
physical and chemical
characteristics.
• If necessary, it should be
versatile in their physical form
like powder form, aqueous
form, film, fiber, sponges, etc.
• It should have enough lightness,
strength, elasticity, softness,
etc.
Nano-technology in medical
textile
Nano-technique has acquired
tremendous impulse in the
last decade. Nano-fibre based
products, as well as nano-coated
materials, are present innovations
in the field of medicine. So, in our
technical poster, we have gone
through the latest medical textiles,
$23.3 bn
global market of medical
textile growth at a CAGR of
4.9% by 2025
Volume 13, Issue 04
M e d i c a l Te x t i l e s
5.3%
U.S. medical textiles growth
rate revenue by 2025
nano-based products due to the
following features and a wide
range of applications.
Nanofibres are very attracted due
to their unique properties, high
surface area to volume ratio, film
thinness, nanoscale fiber diameter
porosity of structure, lighter
weight. Nanofibres are porous and
the distribution of pore size could
be of wide range, so they can be
considered as engineered scaffolds
with broad application in the field
of tissue engineering. Some other
applications like wound dressings,
bone regeneration and nanofibres
to be the carrier of various drugs
to the specific sites, etc.
Smart medical fabric technology
Smart medical textiles
revolutionize health care. Smart
fabric technology has a great
deal to offer patient monitoring.
Sensors integrated right into the
textile provide the least annoying
way to monitor vitals.
The body temperature of patients
can be regulated by fabrics that
can detect the need for the wearer
and ideal body temperature. This
fabric was designed by the VTT
Technical Research Centre of
Finland. It works by identifying
the patient and measuring the
surrounding temperature and
then adjusting the temperature
according to the needs of the
patient. This could be particularly
useful for patients in the hospital
who feel cold after surgery or get
too hot during operation.
Users can gain access to a
88
$1,852.1 mn
in 2019 Germany's medical
textiles market value
lab-quality analysis by using
a biometric “shirt” developed
by Hexoskin. Few projects like
heart rate measuring clothes,
blood vessels developed from
textiles and suits for increasing
mobility of disabled children are
being developed. By using new
and smart textiles for medical
applications, new opportunities are
created in the health care sector.
Medi-tech product
Wound care: Wound care prevents
body infections from absorbing
blood from the wound.
Bandages: Bandages are used to
position the level of wound care in
the correct position. Woven, non-
woven and knitted fabric are used
to create bandages.
Human textile: Human textile is
used to replace the damaged
part of the human body. Another
purpose of making it is that
after repairing the body with
artificial yarn, the body considers
it an external part, but when the
damaged part is filled with the
yarn made from human cells, it
easily absorbs the body and does
not cause any internal problems.
Extracorporeal device:
Extracorporeal Device is
a mechanical organ. An
extracorporeal device such as
artificial cleansing, artificial
kidney, artificial liver, etc. Modern
textile technology plays an
important role in the creation of an
Extracorporeal Device.
Implantable material: This type of
Bangladesh Textile Today |
$1,547.4 mn
Chinese medical textiles
growth rate revenue by
2025 by 2025
material is used to repair the body.
It is used to remove damaged
organs by creating artificial limbs.
Artificial ligaments: This medical
device is used to attach the two
ends of the bones. It is possible
to create Artificial Ligament using
polyester such as Man Made fibers.
Contact lenses: Contact lenses
are one of the most used textile
technologies in modern times.
Contact Lenses change the
color of the eyes and make them
sweeter. It is made with water-
absorbing material.
Artificial cornea: This technology
is used to remove blindness. Textile
materials used in this field should
be flexible and have sufficient
mechanical strength.
Artificial kidney: Hollow viscose,
polyester is used to make it. An
artificial kidney is used to remove
waste from the blood.
Mechanical lung: It removes
carbon dioxide from the blood and
helps in transporting clean oxygen.
It is used in hollow viscose to
create.
Also, artificial skin, sutures vascular
graft artificial joint, textile material
is used in health care.
The global market of medical
textile
The global medical textiles market
was valued at USD 16,686.6 million
in 2019 and is projected to reach
USD 23.3 billion at a CAGR of
4.9% by 2025, according to a
Volume 13, Issue 04

new report conducted by Grand
View Research, Inc. Now U.S.
medical textiles industry revenue is
projected to grow at a rate of 5.3%
over the forecast period.
Also, Germany's medical textiles
market was valued for USD 1,852.1
million in 2019 and is projected
to grow significantly over the
forecast period. And the Chinese
market is anticipated to reach USD
1,547.4 million by 2025.
Opportunity for Bangladesh in the
field of medical textiles
Bangladesh is the most populous
country in the world with a
huge requirement for healthcare
services. The opportunity in the
medical textile industry is also
tremendous. Consumption is
increasing rapidly.
Three prominent organizations
become ZDHC Contributors
Desk Report
ZDHC is delighted to announce
more of the biggest names in the
industry as ZDHC Contributors.
Fast Retailing Co. Ltd is now
a ZDHC Signatory Brand. We
also have two new Value Chain
Affiliates. Bozzetto Group from
the chemical industry has become
a Contributor, alongside Century
Rayon from the textile industry.
Another exciting addition to
the ZDHC Community is world-
renowned fashion brand, Ralph
Lauren. This organization is now
officially a Friend of ZDHC.
This rapid growth in our
community is set to continue, as
organizations from all facets of
the industry join our mission to
transform the industry. Together
we are gaining momentum, and
making a difference.
Signatory brand
FAST RETAILING CO., LTD., one
of the world’s largest apparel
retail companies, is now a ZDHC
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04
The healthcare spending from the
private sector comprises over 70%
of the market which is more than
comparable developing countries
as well as developed countries.
The Coronavirus impact has
revealed the weakness and
vacuum of medical safety kits
all over the world. Here the
Bangladeshi manufacturers can
think over it and can take this
as an opportunity for the long
run. Regular fashion brands are
canceling their orders, at the same
time PPE demand growing sky
high all over the world.
So, factories can immediately
manufacture this demand-based
PPE also can-do plan for future
business.
Right now there are a few
Signatory Brand. This company is
the owner of UNIQLO, which is the
largest of eight brands in the Fast
Retailing Group.
Chemical industry
Bozzetto Group produces
chemical auxiliaries for many
different industries, including
textiles, construction, water
treatment, cosmetics and agro-
chemistry. The company strives
to be a sound, reliable industrial
entity for its partners, customers
and workers. It also wants to be
an influential point of reference
for sustainability in the chemical
industry. Bozzetto Group excels in
the pursuit of its goals by constantly
growing and improving its line
of products and services, while
reducing environmental impacts and
optimizing production processes.
Textile industry
Established in 1952 in India,
CENTURY RAYON (Under
management and Operation of
M e d i c a l Te x t i l e s
manufacturers who are supplying
medical accessories to several
countries.
Medical textile manufacturers in
Bangladesh
1. Smart Group of Industries
2. Nasir & Sons Bangladesh
3. E-Baik Transport Corporation
4. Abiyan International
5. Sagar Trader's
These manufacturers of Bangla-
desh supplying regularly their
products in many countries such
as the USA, Malaysia, Pakistan,
India, Lebanon, Sri Lanka and
Nigeria. There are now many more
factories like Snowtex, Urmi Group,
Aman Group, Dekko Group, etc.
are producing personal protective
equipment (PPE) to meet the cur-
rent local demand.
Grasim Industries Limited) is
part of the Aditya Birla Group of
Companies. It is one of the leading
producers of viscose filament
yarn (VFY) along with industrial
chemicals such as caustic soda lye,
sulphuric acid, carbon di-sulphide,
chlorine and hydrogen.
Friend
Ralph Lauren Corporation is
a global leader in the design,
marketing and distribution of
premium lifestyle products in five
categories: apparel, footwear &
accessories, home, fragrances and
hospitality.
89
R & D To d a y

Establishing research
and development
department in RMG
manufacturing units
Amir George DCT, B. Com, MBA, (MS)
Country Director, Mantra Inc.,

Abstract

Research – ‘Re-to do again’, ‘search-to look for–

and Development–growth, progress and positive
change in RMG-- work directed towards the
novelty, presenting new styles and improvement
of garment styles. Readymade Garments (RMG)
industry in Bangladesh was glowing competent
with exceptional growth since 1995. It contributes
84% to the country’s net exports, which is more
than 20% of GDP growth. But it gets declined to
the contribution of GDP from 14.17% to 11.17% for the
past five years. Between 2011 and 2016, the overall
prices of Bangladeshi garment items declined 7.79
percent. A couple of hypothesizes of this study are,
Self-developed products will have value addition and
gain high profit and Innovated fashion will attract
more customers and increase sales and marketing.
Figure 1: Research and Development must be a significant
The significant objectives of the study are, to analyze division like merchandising, production, quality, finishing and
the importance of R&D, to understand micro season, packing in RMG factories, to be a successful industrialist.
to meet consumers smartness as fast food taste,
to develop innovators and own brand, to increase Bangladesh with an advertisement for cheap
Profit Margin Ratio, to adapt product mix, to increase labor costs and basic requirements of fashion, just
global market share and to change the label from replicating the design and similar products, which
low cost to value-added products. are being designed and provided by buyers. Our
RMG factories are accepting basic fashion styles
Keywords with the motivation of mass production with the
lowest possible FOB prices, which is almost without
Research and Development (R&D), Readymade any profit margin, consuming nation’s resources
Garments (RMG), Bangladesh Garment likely gas, water, electricity, manpower, environment,
Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), etc. Still, customers keep on pushing and reducing
Product Mix, Innovation, R&D Model, Investment, prices. Every factory is carrying customers with a
High Profit. burden without any brightness and we just replicate
against the styles and programs provided by buyers.
Introduction
Every time the international retailers put pressure on
Between 2011 and 2016, the overall prices of the manufacturers to comply with their rules. RMG
Bangladeshi garment items declined 7.79 percent. units are focusing on mass volume production with
compromising on the net profit and they are not
Many customers are procuring apparel from ready to change and adapt for product mix.

90 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04

R & D To d a y

Research and Development must be a significant Results

division like merchandising, production, quality, Variables Result
finishing and packing in RMG factories, to be a
Research and Development • 67% of
successful industrialist. It develops and plans much
department organizations have
ahead of other functions and processes. It performs
no R&D department
a vigorous role to overall innovation, marketing,
• 33% of
production, quality, costing and pricing. Textile
organizations have
fashion is the second most polluting industry in the
world, global warming is increased by 2-degree Whether R&D is mandatory •5  2% strongly agree
Celsius. When we do our research and develop the for the RMG sector • 44% agree
products with our design and input few values added R&D is a significant • 63% agree
materials, minimum required quantity which will influence for the RMG sector • 3 7% strongly agree\
help to reduce the wastage, the value of products Whether traditional season •2  % disagree
goes up and manufacturing units can obtain business orders will get • 22% agree
high-profit margins. Through our Research and disappeared • 19% strongly agree
Development, we shall generate our brand, market
Globally consumers are •  4% agree
4
and opportunities will be contiguous with us.
changing their taste on • 11% strongly agree
Objective apparel quite rapidly and • 26% disagree
look for an instant fashion • 15% neither agree
The specific objectives are (i) to analyze the nor disagree
importance of R&D in RMG manufacturing units innovation on styles, •5  6% strongly agree
of Dhaka; (ii) to understand micro season; (iii) to fabrics and accessories • 44% agree
meet consumers smartness as fast food taste; (iv)
fabric and accessories •5  6% agree
to develop innovators, own brand; (v) to increase
must be developed • 44% strongly agree
profit margin ratio; (vi) to adapt product mix; (vii)
to increase global market share; (viii) to change the Replicate and produce •4  8% disagree
label from low cost to value-added products; (ix) to basic styles • strongly disagree
improve efficiency and productivity and (x) to get • 37% strongly
ready for 4IR – 4th Industrial Revolution. disagree
replicate styles for every •4  8% disagree
Materials and methods season • 22% strongly
disagree
Area: RMG manufacturing units in Dhaka,
• 19% agree to
Bangladesh. Population: Operation, Administration
upkeep
and Strategic decision-makers and consultants.
Research and Development • 52% agree
Content: Analysis of establishing R&D in RMG units
of Dhaka, Bangladesh.
reduce the cost of •2  2% disagree
production and increase • 19% strongly agree
The following tools such as (1) Questionnaire, (2) Profit Margin Ration
Interview, (3) Observation, (4) Discussion on case Research and Development • 59% agree
studies and (5) Library, published and unpublished will encourage Product Mix • 2
 6% strongly agree
reports were used for this study.
time and product wastage •4  8% agree
and communication cap • 41% strongly agree
Randomly more than 27 respondents from 25
can be reduced
different organizations in readymade garments
(RMG) manufacturing units, buying offices, Liaison R&D will assist us in •4  8% strongly agree
office representatives, Supply Chain, Logistics, forecasting demand • 52% agree
Forwarding and shipping companies in Dhaka have R&D will improve on the •6  3% believe
been selected for this study. supply chain • 37% strongly
believe
The following limitations are identified in the present
The cost of products can •5  2% agree
study, such as, (a) the study is dealing only with
be reduced • 37% strongly agree
RMG units of Dhaka, Bangladesh, (b) the study is not
been discussed with Bangladesh RMG and Fashion Government should •6  7% agree
based universities, institutes and foreign buyers and implement that Research • 15% strongly agree
designers, (c) external factors like economy, politics and Development is a
were not taken into consideration for the present mandatory for RMG
study and (d) year of the establishment was not BGMEA should provide •7  0% agree
been restricted for this study. necessary training • 26% strongly agree

92 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04

 R & D To d a y

R&D model
Value Added
Share the
This study suggests an appropriate R&D profit on R&D,
Products
(VAP) will
model for RMG industry (Fig 1): will re-search
generate
and develop
high profi
This study encourages, invest in R&D,
it will be turned into knowledge and
knowledge gets converted as innovation
and innovation creates value-added Innovation
will create
products and investment will get Establis Investment – Value Added
multiplied with a huge profit margin
h R&D high profit. Products
(VAP)
(Fig 2). The value-added product gets
performed for long-term growth and
benefit.
Knowledge
Conclusion Investment will convert
on R&D into
Innovation
Effective R&D will lead us in advancing
sustainability in manufacturing, sales
and marketing in RMG products. It
assists us to produce the products which Government and BGMEA
are environment-friendly and improve the lifetime
of the product. RMG unit owners are unaware of The government should consider providing high
global marketing and customers’ interest and taste, incentives for own branded garments selling abroad.
they don’t have frequent traveling at the end sales Government and BGMEA to establish separate
market. Top management and employees are unable departments in universities and institutes for
to follow their commitments due to the lack of Research and Development training.
awareness of season and product. RMG units are
RMG owners
unable to meet the customer’s demand for the due
date and revising payment term from FOB (Free RMG factory owners and strategic decision-makers
on Board) to C&F (Cost and Freight) pre-paid and should visit the global market quite frequently. They
switch-mode of shipment from sea to air, failure, should seek knowledge of sales and marketing,
stock inventory level goes up and investment understand consumers and wearers' requirements,
on stock lots. This study analyses, when we do needs and tastes. They must search for market
research and develop any products and sell them opportunities and understand the market. They
to customers, we can fix our price with our profit encourage developing their brand. They have to
margin and henceforth, the value of the product advertise and develop the brand and branding. They
goes up. ought to establish an R&D department. They need
to study to measure the customers’ feedback and
Recommendations
promote E-Commence.

Production

Idea SWOT Sales and

generation Analysis marketing

Product
Designing development Feedback

Selection

Figure 2: R&D model.

Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 04 93

100 Transformation Leaders (TLs) from Textile Talent Hunt 7th
season are getting ready for 'Setting Transformation Blueprint
(STB)' in the textile and apparel industry!

Training on Mastering Life (7 habits), Goal Setting & Career

Planning and Apparel Value Chain Management have been
done successfully at the Dysin office. (Total 10 consecutive
training will be provided to the TLs by Textile Today Training
for their developments).

season
2019-20

Transforming Human Capital

Profitable & Effective Organization through People Leadership & Excellence

Cadira® Denim | Cadira Laundry
The ultimate ecological processing of denim

SUBSTANTIAL WATER REDUCTION

SIGNIFICANT ENERGY SAVING

STRONG REDUCTION OF CHEMICALS

Combine the most sustainable indigo dyeing process with the

processing of denim.
The Cadira® Denim process using DyStar Indigo Vat 40% Solution and

products designed for the latest generation of ultra low liquor ratio machines.

www.DyStar.com
Committed to Sustainability trademarks of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH
Copyright of the material in this advertisement is owned by, or licensed to, DyStar Singapore Pte Ltd
 Driving business with knowledge

corporate Members
B r a n d i n g a n d K n o w l e d g e N e t w o r k

Premium Corporate Members

shakti@smsourcing.biz

www.smsourcing.biz

Corporate Members

Corporate Members (Individual)

Aleya Akter Engr. Anisul Hoque Ansari Engr. Rashed Ahmed Engr. Uzzal Dakua

Transforming Human Capital

 House-25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh
 +88 01775 999 748 |  info@textiletoday.com.bd |  www.textiletoday.com.bd
 Transforming Human Capital

Pro m o ti ng Sustai nabi l i ty

Not just
just the
the biggest
biggestindustry
industryplatform
platform

...transforming into an

Innovation
Hub!

 House-25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh
 +88 01775 999 748 |  info@textiletoday.com.bd |  www.textiletoday.com.bd