STA YM

NLE CTURNE 0 0
N FA
A .

MMMMMM MM

oot and Shoe Machiner

No . 1 17 LI N C O LN ST RE ET ,

BOSTO N , MASS .

PATT E RN DRAFT I N G MAC HI N E .

 C EMENTS DRES S ,

I NGS S TAI NS (Inc

, , .

US ED BYTHEBGDT
AND S HO E MAN
UFACTURERS O F
THE WO RLD ARE

B os t o n M a s s , , U 5
. . A .

I
EN G L SH BRAN CH ! L E CEST ER , EN I GLAN D .

G ER M AN A G EN T S ! K EAT S M A C HI N ERY CC F ran kf ort a. M

A MA P
.
, .

F R EN CH G EN T S ! A . HER NN CO .
, ari s, F ranc e .
 DES I G NI NG ,
CUTTI NG
AND G RAD IN G

O
UTA
NDSH
OEPA
TTE
RN
AND COMPLET E MAN UAL FO R
THE ST IT C HI N G ROO M ,

BY AN EXPERT O F THI RT Y Y EARS .

THO RO UG H LY ILLUST RAT ED .

Copy ri ght ed by f p b va n N ess

os e , 1 89 9 .

T
BOS O N U S A
I T T F
. .
, .

P RESS OF SUP ER N ENDEN AND OREMAN .

1 89 9 .
 3 87 1 6

emcnt fr m tt m He l e
Eureka Fasteners
easur is o Bo o of .

F O R L AC E S H O ES
T F
.

he s e a s t e ne rs a re p ut C he ap “ .
tha n S rings t
y
i n s h oe s a t s a m e t i m e yo u

v
d o s t ri ngs no w , a nd if c a re a nd
e n t he w t l l l as t f o r

I lFIl Ha l f of L abor
S
'e a s
Sa es

W o me n a nd Me n
dF y
.

P a t e nt e e b ru a r 8, 89 8

v y
I .

v
Yo u sa e ou r ra nd

l ft d
a nd d o not h a e to use

a ny i s. P a t e nt a p p l ie fo r

A t tM f t
.

P z d op ed b y t h e L arges

k
a nu a c u re rs0

z
ri c e do e n,

v
Si es 5 ? 7 9 8, 9 .
T o be u sed W hil e ma ing sh oes .

T he ? c an b e u se d o e r a ga i n.
$ 3 50 d oz f or 1 1 12 13
Will tt
v y f
s re c h .
0
no t
R 3 5 5“ , SC p a i r . e x tra . E er sh o e u ni orm

MEN S ’

C . S . P i e rc e , rc t
B o k on, M ass . , U S A
. .

E IM
IH OVED CUTEGR
PR ADING MACH
INE .

ii t i mac h g ad e w d h o f u p p e p a
ne w h c h w ill r
ns i t
Whos
stt r r l te ttir t e rt litter
o f all w d h ! le es tsss ry i t .

f il merir i te t i f
a d ea
i ot a
w d h set o f
t o ap p ec a
may b e , A
h s ea u e
and a d s and s o t ue ha ti ng u p is not n ce a
Ab so u fi ng o f as i s g ua an eed , no ma
ti
.

t l it t
a p a s ab o or u h e ad j u m n
Pat t err
w ha l ts r t
xtr rt l r f rt r st e t tter .

m ie s can, Engl is h o r C o n nen a w

ac h n may b e ee n i n o p a o n at t he o ffic
ho u e
of er ti e , ,

C . B . HAT F I E L D , 1 4 3 F e d e ra l S t r t t M ee , B os o n, as s .

LOUI S COTE S t Hy i nt h P Q , . ac e, . .
 CO N T E N T S .

P AE
G

C H A PT E R I M OUL I N T
.

D G T HE L AS
C H A PT E R II G E TT I N E CT N
.

G AN D DISS I G THE

STA N
.

D ARD

C H A PT E R III A A Y DO N OL OO T L D
’
S G A B
B U TT O N T PO T O N
. .

S IN R I GH SI I

C H A PT E R IV C LO T N N T HE H LI I G AN D BUT
TON F VA P N T OU IN N
.

LY — M I G HR GH L I GS

G E TT N U TT O N
. .

I G T HE B F LY
C H A PT E R V C C UL OU N I N
.

IR AR V A TI R — -

R D G

CO NE
.

OF F R RS

C H A PT E R V I U TT O N B FLY AN D T OP F AC
A PO P UL O N
.

ING — AR F XI G

C H A PT V II W OLE O E
. .

ER SE LE H -
F X D OR AM SS

V P CLO T QU T E
.

AM S, H AR RS , AN D FLY LIN
IN GS

C H A PT V III ER DO N OL EA E VV O M A N
’
S G A B D D

V P G Y P Y U TT O N OO T
.

AM S B B

C H A PT I X ER S E A C E S OE T HE ID L H AN D

U TT O N OO O NT AC
.

C L I MAx B B T — FR AN D B K

QU T E AR RS

C H A PT X WO A N E T E CO N E
ER M
’

S L A H R GR SS

C H A PT X I U TT O N OO T W T OLLE
. .

ER . B B I H R D

T OP

C H A PT X II ER O NT C E S OE FR LA H S

C H A PT X III CLO T QU A T E WEL T

.

ER H R RS AN D

S OE
.

H S

C H A PT X I V MC K Y O FO C C UL
ER A X RD, IR AR

V P O E QU T E C C UL
.
,

AM F X D AR RS , AN D IR AR

IN N
,

L I GS

C H A PT XV A V E N E O FO
ER N E B AD X RD

C H A PT XV I NE P O T S OU T E N T E
.

ER W R S, H R I S,

CU T
.

AN D L ow S

C H A PT XV II S T P S N L
ER O PE RA A DA S AN D RA

S L IP P E
.

RS

C H A PT XV III A WO E N CLO T C
ER M
’
S H ON

E TP
.

GR SS I S

C H A PT X I X M E N S OE
.

’
ER . S H S
 C o nt e nt s Cont i nu ed
AE
. .

P G .

CH A PT E R XX CO NC E N I N M E N V P R G
’
S AM S

CH A PT E R X X I M E N L C E CO N E
.

S A AN D GR SS

TI N
. .

L AS G

C H A PT E R X X II
TT N TN FI I G AN D L AS I G T HE

CO N E
.

GR SS

C H A PT E R X X III G I N U P P E RA D G R PAT
TE N
.

R S

C H A PT E R X X IV G N H N RAD I G BY A D

CH A PT E R X XV G E TT N NIN
.

I G T HE LI G AN D

B U TT O N WO N F O
.

FLY RK I G R M E E, AN D

G N IN F NT
,

RAD I G A S

C H A PT ER X XV I O O S T EE NT T HE LD N E- IX H

INC ULE
.

H R

C H A PT ER X XV II O M E T O CO E CT NE H D RR

C H A PT X XV III G N W I T O E
.

ER RA D I G D H S, S M
O N LY T EE W T P TT E N H EEL
.

U SE -
HR ID H A R S,

M EA
-

S U E R

C H A PT ER X X I X G N U TT O N . RA D I G B FLY

‘
ZI I S

H t echnical
ACK AN D COL ORS,
D u b l i s b e o e ve t g U neab ag
GL AZ ED AN D D UL L
trm t
l zee tst k is q l
at 1 4 3 if e Oe ral S ee ,
.

T he g a d oc e ua JBos t on, R oo 1 4 ,

er iti s l f i t
f or t b e S hoe anO I e at b e t
t o t h e fi n s kid mad e any
w h e, and s h oe manu ac
M es s
r
(t ace s , b e S oe e p b wan
S b s ip i on, $ 2 u cr t
urers amb
s LFl i t Vt Lir
h o u d p ut “
o u o f e ad ng
E O U RS p e r p ea
van e c
.

r
p aya b l e i n ao! .

CA sam
li s illr s ersr
no he .

p e . It w up ed e

sk i s
d ced and b oa d ed Ch o me
n .

Der Schubi abrikan

t
Wri e l
e werki ueb
f or sa m p es a n d p ri ce s
und sein
.

‘
Irz e r cf Wg a e!
d t
i /z e r co
T anne rs and FO
ft t
AN D E
i s t h e G e rm a n

v N
y t d tR MA
e i i on
a nd
of S U P E R I N TEN I
i s p u b l i s h e o n fi rs t

E
,

a .
Cu rrie rs, fi

y y
on tee n h

dv A dd t
of

t h e c o n i ne nt o f
e er m o n h , c i rc u l a i o n m
u ro p e S u b s c ri p i o n

Mi l Wi
.

w a u k e e, s . ea r , p a ab l e in a a nc e . re s s f or ei

t
37 Sp ru c e St re e , N e w Y or Ci k ty J OS EP H V A N N E S S .
tr t t
t t t
.

6 1 3 S u mm er S re e , B os on, M ass . 1 4 3 F e d e ra l S ee , B os o n, U .
 I N T RO D U C T I O N .

I t is my purpose to write of and fully illustrate the art

of designing and cutt ng boot shoe patterns so that i and

pers cut therefrom may fit the lasts perfe t ly I shall con

up

keep in mind the operations to be performed on the

.

s t a nt l y

uppers in the fitting room in the lasting room and in all

other departments of the factory M y constant a i m will be
, ,

to economize stock in the utting room to save time and

.

labor in the fi ting room and to prod uce patterns from

,

t
which with our modern factory methods may be made
,

shoes that fit well look well and are f l l of that more or

, ,

less definite something which we call style

, ,
“ ”

I shall also treat at full length the arious methods of

.

v
grading in sizes and widths with the di ff erent grading ma
chines comparing the results I shall describe the various
methods i hand grading fully illustrating all with careful
.
,

l y drawn diagrams
,

This is an undertaking of considerable magnitude and

.

although I have been for the last thirty fi years almost

,

ve
continuously t ravelling throughout the U nited S tates a d
-

n
Canada visiting repeatedly almost every boot and shoe
manufacturer in A merica except where very heavy goods
,

only are made inst ucting manufacturers their p i

,

n
or f ni and gathering points for myself I
, r , su er

d
t e n e nt s o re e n,

nevertheless hesitate at undertaking a task that is so filled

,

with detail and so di fficult to make intelligible

I am aware tha there are publications on the subject
.

t
of boot and hoe patterns for which large prices are asked
but I never yet have seen one by which the ordinary person
s ,

can without previous training become a thorough pat

tern maker designer capable of doing practical work in
, ,

or

a shoe factory
,

I will commence with women s misses and children s

.

’ ’ ’

boots and low cuts heel and spring heel I ill treat
,

these in M K y welts and turns individually M en s

.
,

’ ’
c a s,

boys and y uth s will follow and all will be illustrated with
.
,
’ ’
o

the necessary diagrams The writer will use his best

,

en

to the end that the information may be of such

.

de a vo rs

a character that any person mechanically inclined can from

it and the necessary practical ex erience become roficient p p .

C B H A T F I EL D . . .

R O CH E S T ER N Y O ctober 89 7 , . .
, , 1 .
D ES I G N I N G C U T T I N G , AN D G RA D I N G
BO O T AN D S HO E P AT T E RN S .

CH AP T ER I .

OUL N LA T M DI G T HE S .

I t is premised that we start with a proper last L et

us begin with a woman s M K y sewe circular vamp don

.

’
c a d
gola buttoned boot To properly mould the last is the
first operation M en do or try to do this in di fferent
.

ways I n one a piece of upper leather is moistened drawn

.
, ,

over the last rubbed down and moulded un il it fits closely

.
,

t
to the last at every point I t is fastened in this position with
,

tacks and remains on the last until hor ughly dried Then
.

t o
the leather is away around h edge of the last where
.

c ut t e

the edge of the ins ole would come Then a straight line is
cut from the centre of the cone at the top to the centre of
.

the toe and up and down the centre of the heel The
, ,

leather comes ff the last in two parts one from the inside
.
,

the other the outside in shell —like appearance Partly by

, ,

moistening and partly by slashing the edges these hells

.
,

are fla tened out The mean average of these two pieces

t
of leather on paper is supposed to give a proper mould
.

S uch a mould may do for very oarse heavy work but it

.
, ,

is not su fficiently accurate for fine work

, ,

A nother method proceeds on similar lines with heavy

.

drill or canvas using shellac to fasten to the last The re

sult is no better
, .

Positive proof that neither of these is the correct meth

.

o d is found as follows L two di f ferent people mould the

! et

same last by either method and compare results

The simplest most positive most practical method
.
,

was invented by myself nineteen years ago method so

, ,

— a

simple and so correct that when followed out and accord

ing to instructions ten diff erent people i n ten di fferent
local i ties will all arrive at identical results
,

Cut a piece of manila paper about the substance of

.

that used by professional pattern makers into shape p

,

im i g the shape of one half the last leav i ng it large

, a

ro x at n —
p
enough to cover one side Next draw a l ne with pencil . i a
4 D e s i gni ng C u tt i ng
, ,
an d G ra i
d ng

from the centre of the comb of the last to the centre of the
toe on or as near centre the eye locates I f it be a
t op -s

welt or turn last line the last where the edge of the sole
. .
,

would come on h shank L y the last on its ide tack

,

t e a S

the paper to ide of the heel about half way up and swing
.
,

the toe of the paper up and down until i t is in the right p

S , ,

s i i
t on (S
. diagram Then tack it to the last at the
ee

ball and while the paper is lying flat tack it to the side of
the toe springing the paper neither up nor down on the
, , ,

last but allowing it to lie naturally thus preserving the toe

,

spring of the last This is essential U se as many

, ,

ve rv !

tacks as vou choose but do not twist the paper Next

.

slash the paper as seen in diagram I While the last is l y

, .

ing upon a support rub the lower edge along the line of
.

,
 B oo t a nd S h oe P a t t e rns .
5

the sole with a dirty h ndl d knife a bit of lead or anything a e

which being rubbed along the projection of the corner of

, ,

the sole of the last will leave a black mark S dotted line
,

A diagram Care must be taken at the lower back

,
. ee
“ ”
1 C or

ner of the heel or the paper will lift from the last and cause
.
,

a downward curved mark as shown b y do ted line B dia

,

t
gram
, ,

When you have thus determined the line of sole bring

.

each piece as marked with the small numerals on diagram

,

3 4 5 etc successively one at a time to the line

—
already drawn through the middle of the last M ark with
1 , 1 -
2 - - -
, .
, , ,

pencil or cut with knife on the line until the whole is fi

.

n
i h d
s A fter this operation pull out the tacks and remove
e .

n an n n nnn

Q Q Q Q Q Q QQ Q Q Q Q Q

a
‘ o

IA AM D GR 2 .

paper Proceed in same way with the other side of the

last and another piece of paper This gives you both sides
.

of the last on paper

.

To obtain the mean average of these two ides— and by

.

that means to calculate what is necessary to cover one half -

of the last mark on another piece of manila paper around

—

first one of these half moulds and then the other in the
,

same relative position on each S diagram A fter this

, ,

ee 2
cut out your mould splitting all di ff erences or divi d ing b
. .

tween the lines with your eye

, ,

Y ou now have what is called the mould of the last

.

which will be in this instance a woman s 4 C M K y

,
’
-
c a

sewed .
 CH AP T E R II .

G ETT N I G AN D D I SS ECT NI G T HE S TA N A
D RD .

The next step will be to get a shell or complet e outside

standard for an ordinary button boot side lace or any boot
that is seamed both front and back in the leg S elect a
, ,

piece of paper large enough to make a standard and place

.

the last mould on it S a pair of dividers for M K y et c a

work say fi eighths inch and draw around the bottom of

.

ve -

the last mould This gives su fficient stock for lasting and
, ,

Dia 4 .

IA AM D GR 4 .

covering the insole I t may take a little less or a little

more the amount depending largely on the stock and the
.

factory What is just enough for one factory is not enough

,

for another owing mostly to the way the laster uses his pin
.

cers These things must be decided by the pattern maker

,

for he has the opportunity to observe the results f his f

.
,

o e

forts and any one who proposes to become proficient in de

;
signing must have a good store of sound common sense
and be willing to use it at any and all times as against the
ory
The next step is to get the fl oor line S diagram 4
.

ee

This is done by measuring down from about the

.
,

F F
centre of the heel the height that the breast of the heel
.

is to be in this instance three —f urths of an inch and from o ;

this point draw a line by means of a stra ight edge to the
,

ball of the mould This represents the floor that the shoe
will rest on when finished only it would be the th ickness
.

of the sole lower

,

.
 B oo t a nd S h o e P a t t e ns r .
7

Now erect perpendicular line fro m the floor by

a

means of a right ang led square just touching the extreme

rear point of the mould at the heel and extending upwards
,

say seven and a hal f inches Then get the curve for the
,

back of the leg by means of a curve drawn by your eye

.

from the top or near the top of the back of the heel of the
, ,

mould to a point six inches upward from the botto m of the

,

mould and three eighths of an inch backward from the ver

,

tical S ome manuf cturers of ladies fine shoes have a

’

adopted the leg curve for ladies hoes sh wn in diagram

.

’
S o

No 5
,

. .

D IA AM
GR 5 .

I f you do not have this curve measure across the

smallest part of the ankle or where it curves in the great
,

est one half the girt h measurement of h ball of the last

,

-
t e ;
then add one eighth inch for the two seams front and
,

back and erect another p rpendicular from the floor S

,

diagram 4 line A
, . ee

This being a 4 C the standard height in A merica at

.
,

the back is six inches from the rand up The height at the
,

front should be more as the eye will tell you so draw a

.

straight line across the top slanting up at the front Where

, ,

this line i S the perpendicular measure back from

.
,

nt e r ect s

the perpendicular the same amount of spa e as the top of c

8 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd Gr d i ng a

the back line lays back of the back perpendicular F rom

th i s point in front draw a straight line to the point of meas
.

u re m that you have across the ankle S diagram 4

e nt ee

line B
, ,

This finishes the leg except the curve at the throat

.

hich unless you have some fixed curve you must put in
,

with your eye striking the comb of the last

, ,

Now using a i ze st i ck get the length of the last A s

.
,

is quite generally known all ladies lasts nowadays are made

, , .

at least one ize longer than standard measure in A merica

S

so that size f our would draw fi sizes on the ize stick

,

ve
Conseque tly our present experiment draws fi sizes I t is
S .

n ve
now necessary to add 4 % izes to the length of the pat
.

tern over the length f the last from extreme bulge of heel
to extreme point of toe to make it long enough to last I n
o ,

this case the m l g h of the standard would be 9 %

, .

e x t re e en t
izes
I t is better to end the toe of the standard on a curve
S .

such as would be desirable in a seam to toe or gi p sy cut “ ”

such as side lace congress gipsy button etc S dia

,

ee

gram 4
, , , .

Now draw a horizontal line from the point of the toe

.

to the extreme bulgeof the heel and with a pair of dividers

divide into three equal parts S diagram l i nes C
,
”
ee

D
.
,
“

B y means of a square draw down from the hor i zontal

.

line at rear point of intersecting third and upward from

first third S diagram 4
,

ee

The c ntre of the shank on a ize 4 is seven eighths of

. .

- e S -

an inch ahead of the back perpendicular line drawn from

the third D and this is the place at which to end the c ve ur
of a circular vamp except in extreme cases The length of
, ,

the vamp on top in a finished shoe size 4 varies according

.

to taste but at the present time it is desired to be fr m three

, ,

and fi eighths to four and one fourth inches The shape

,

ve - -

of the cu ve is entirely a matter of taste

.

The standard may now be dissected for various styles

.

of shoes but before proceeding further get out a standard

for a woman s spring heel 4 C the only di ff erence be i ng
,
’
-
;
the height of the heel showing that the floor line F must
be obtained from the hoe as it will be finished S dia
, , ,

S ee

gram I O
.

I t ill be observed that the curve at the b k f the

.

'

w ac o

leg is somewhat straighter in a spring heel hoe and that S

the throat curve is somewhat sharper This is because the

,

foot is in a di fferent position relatively to the leg than when

.

it is in a heel shoe
Now notice diagram This represents a standard
.

I I

got out from a last made to car y heel one and three
.

fou ths inches h igh at the breast The diagram shows very
r 3

r .
 B oo t a nd S hoe P at t e rn
s .
9

plainly a d ifT in the curve at the back of the leg it is

e re nc e ;
much ha per the throat curve is straighter and in these
S r ; ;
parti ulars it is just the reverse of a spring heel hoe
A continuation of the back cur e in its present posi
c S .

D IA AM
GR 10 .

tion and a simila continuation of the front line upward

r
will give a good high leg
,

IA AM D GR 1 1 .

Diagram shows the standard with the curved line

1 2

of the vamp the curved line of the front of the quarter

where h vamp is stitched and the lap that is required
,

t e
T h amount of lap required is not uniform I n some fac
.

tories more is required than in others S ome factories

.

. re
I O D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d i ng

quire one fourth inch only others three eighths inch I t

- -

is best in all cases to cut p with the lap that has been
.
,

at e rns

in use in the st tching room of a factory N advantage

i O

is to be ga ned bv arbitrarily changing it

.

convenience of ge ting out the pattern cut the

.

F or t
piece of paper representing the lap of the standard
,

out

A lways make the lap for a plain vamp and never allow f
.

or

beading provided it be a beaded vamp in the opening

,

I t is very easy to add the beading to the vamp when gett i ng

, , .

it out This serves to prevent confusion for the question

.
,

IA AM D GR 12 .

sometimes arises as to whether the standard was for p lain

or beaded vamp Diagram also shows a foxing laid 1 2

out with the lap at botto m of quarter A gain referring

.

to diagram you will notice near the top of the leg two
, ,
.

1 2

lines drawn across one representing the lower edge of the

,

top facing marked H the other representing the top

,
“ ”

edge of the loth lini ng L This standard is made with a

,

wave top for the purpose of getting out the first st ndard
.
,

button boot with an ven h d around the edge of the p

,

e ea u

per where i is beaded t .

1 2 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , ,
an d G ra d ng i
U TTO N T PO T ON
B S IN RI GH SI I .

Permit a digression at this point and reference to the

greatest source of trouble in a button boot viz the correct
positions of the buttons B y looking at the shoes in a last
, ,

ing room in a great many shoe factories it will be found

.

that the front seam on the instep of the last is very crooked
,

O ftentimes it appears to run away to the inside The bot

.

tom end of the button fly between the vamp and the first
.

button bulges up showing a bad fullness or wrinkle E x

amination of the line of the small quarter under the button

.
,

fl y hows that it is fro mthree eighths to fi eighths of an

_

S ve -
inch below the front seam having b een drawn down there
by lasting A ll this is the result of h buttons not having
,

t e
been put on in their proper places to hold the small quarter
.

up where it belongs
I t is the height of folly to undertake to cut patterns
.

for button boots to the one —thi ty second of an inch and

.

-
r

then allow by carelessness neglect or th ough ignorance

,

r
the Operative in the stitching room to put buttons on d
, , ,

an

not have them in their proper places I t may be further

said that there is more trouble caused by want of attention
.

to the proper placing of buttons on button boots than by

any one thing that transpires in their manufacture S that ee

every button is put on in its proper position

.

A great many pattern makers professional and ama

.

cut away the small quarter down the instep line only
,

t e u r,
one sixteenth of an inch at the bottom to one eighth of an
inch near the throat curve This may be correct i n the
- -

ory but a dongola boot will not fit if cut in this manner

.

The shoe will not be even at the bottom edges when fold
.
,

ed carefully along the i nstep seam and held by the thumb

,

and finger the bottom edges drawn down by h other t e

hand The out or button side of the upper will extend b

,

low the inside from one eighth to three eighths of an i n ch

. e

- -

unless when vamping the lower end of the small quarter

,

is lapped clear by the centre seam all the way up to the

,

throat while the positions for the buttons are being

marked
,

N w this applies to a dongola button boot but if cut

.

from heav y grain split bu ff or anything of that kind the

o ;

small quarter should b cut away down the instep line from
, , , ,

one fourth of an inch to fi sixteenths of an inch ve -

I n fitting the small quarter of a button boot the
-
.

re

mark is often made Why the small quarter beads fi? a “

o

seam B it does not O nly another theory L ook

, ,

”
ut

over a lot of shoes in the factory ready to be vamped I t

. . .

will be found that the cloth lining does all the h d i g and
.

ea n
imply adds on to the small quarter down the front line
There are a few factories in the U nited S tates where the
S .

beading is done evenl y down that line but they are but few , ,
 Boot a nd S h oe P at te rn
s . 1 3

a ndthe pri es paid for that work are correspondingly high

c

S tarting up the front of a small quarter three eighths of

.

an inch back cut away three sixteenths of an inch down to

-

the front end of the small quarter S C diagram 3

,

”
ee 1

This is done for the purpose of giving the operator who

.
.
,

closes the lining on to the outside a guide to work from ,

D IA AM
GR 14 .

as well as to accomplish a purpose in closing the toe of the

lini g When cuttin g a pattern for a very chea p shoe it
n
will be well to round the front end of the small quarter
.
,

clear down to the place where it meets the lower end of the
button fly S diagram 4 C This would save stock
ee 1
“ ”

and take the thickness out from under the lower end of the
. .
,

button fly and vamp as shown C diagram 4

, at
“
, 1 .
 CH AP TE R I V

C LOT L N N
THE UTTO N
H I I G AN D B FLY .

The next step il l b to get a C loth lining I t is

w e

preferable in all cases where the cost of production will l

.

low to cut two lining patterns one for the full quarter the
other cut away to match h small quarter L eave on
, ,

t e

about one twelfth of an in h d wn the front so that the

.

qua ter may be set back a little on the lin i ng The cloth
c o ,

not being so liable to fray out gives the operator (generally

.
,

termed the closer on or the second closer ) a guide to

,

” “ ”

stitch by and d es not require her to use her judgment as

o

to the amount of material to be trimmed away down the

,

front of the lining on the small side I n other word she s

is not obliged to gauge the distance back from the edge of

.
,

IA AM D GR 15 .

the linin g with her eye I f left to one lining pattern and
the judgment of the operator where eye measurement is
.

used entirely the next operator is very liable to use a dif

,

eye measurement I n consequence the shoe coming

,

f
e re nt

from one perator may have smooth linings through the

.
,

leg while that from the next operator wrinkles

s

L inings are fitted with what is now generally adopted

.

as the regulation cloth seam one fourth inch I f a greater -

seam allowance is required add the di fference if less take

, .

;
ff the diff erence
,

F old a piece of paper large enough to cut both linings

.

L y the standard diagram upon it and mark around

.

a 1 2

commencing at the cross line L going entirely around

,

“ ”

the standard up the other side and again stop at L A s

,

“ ”
.
,
 B oo t a nd S h oe P a t t e rns . 1 5

is understood this pattern is for a ladies dongola M K y ’

sewed S the pattern will be for a M K y lining A fter

,
c a

o c a

having marked around the standard by means of a pair of

. .

dividers add one eighth of an inch all around the bottom of

,

this to give material equivalen for the stretch in the upper

,

t
obtained by lasting and notwithstanding so much has l
,

; a

ready been allowed more must be added in the shank S

diagram 5 A
. ee
“ ”
1

While the standard is still in position mark through

.
,

the lap of the vamp at the top also at front of qua ter This
,

; r

supplies a guide for the ending of the toe seam as that is

.

desired to come up three eighths of an inch back of the

,

front of the quarter so as to match where the closer on “

has stopped at the notch made in the front of the quarter

,

IA AM D GR 1 40 .

B y doing this there ill be no hole left at the back of the

w

toe seam in the lining

,

The majority of factories at the present time will find

.

their patterns on cheap work in such a manner that the

c ut
“
closer on runs down to about where she considers right
”

in stitching the outside on to the lining and then shoots ff o

S ince the e seam of the lining generally commences at

.

to
the end of the quarter th re is a bad hole left open at this e

point L ikewise in a majority of factories making a finer

grade of goods the closer on stitches the outside on to
.

“ ”

the lining clear d wn to the end of the quarter when the

o

shoes are passed to table girls who rip them up a little

,
“ ”

so that the linings may be turned back in vamping This

,

also l eaves a bad hole at the end f the toe seam

.

Diagram 4 represents a lining running to the top

.

1 0

where no top facing is required .

1 6 D e s i g ni ng , C u t t i nCcr , a nd Gr d i nga

V A M P N T OU L N N
I G HR GH I I GS .

Va m ping through linings may be considered here

can see that by this method of cutting patterns it cos ts
.

O ne
nothing to turn the linings back for no table hands are
needed on the uppers The patterns are cut so as to go
,

together by the edge of the lining and the outside in all

.

Shoes of whatever description A n experience of years has

shown that it is absolutely impossible to vamp through the
.

linings of button boots and get smooth linings Part of

the case may come fairly smooth but others from the same
.

case will be wrinkled because the vamper draws them

,

nu
evenly some not quite far enough forward others too far
,

The latter fault causes a tight heel lining A shoe with a

.
, ,

tight heel lining no matter how much time and trouble is

.

spent in lasting will never d raw well B y referring to dia

,

gram 5 it will be noticed that the toe of the standard ends

.
,

at a point therefore allow your lining to be about one

,

;
eighth inch longer than the standard S trike the top line
of h toe seam and have the front end of it cut a little b
.

t e e

low the standard at the highest point back three eighths of —

an inch from the front of h e qU as shown in the

,
'

t a rt e r,

standard Raise three sixteenths of an inch above the -

standard a short perpendicular which gives the p line of

.

tO
toe seam S diagram 5 A Cut under about one
,
“ ”
ee 1

eighth of an inch at the bottom back of the lining for l

. .
,

lowance for counter from not hing to the height of two and
, ,

one fourth inches This completes the large lining

,

To obtain the small lining place the small quarter in

. .

its proper position on the lining and mark around the front
,

of it leaving one twelfth of an i nch down h f of the-

t e
’

ro nt

quarter C and at the bottom end of the quarter or

,
“

three eighths of an inch above Cut up to the top to

, ,

match the large side of lining A I f no seam i d i d

-
.

“
s, e s re

in the toe of the lining it would be well to cut ff the three

.
,

ixteenths of an inch which has been added for the seam

,

A and only make a notch to guide the operator in fi

S
“ ”
t
ting However the cloth is there and it seems a great
,

waste not to toe se m and get the benefit of the strength

.
, ,

of the cloth across the vamp and ball of the foot .

ETT N UTTO N G I G T HE B F LY .

The next step will be to get the button fly or as it is

termed in some places the button lap I t has been the
,

custom with many to give the fl y quite a spring when

.
,

cut

ting the pattern i a way to make it hug closely to the shoe

n
on the scalloped edge
Try one with no spring having the small quarter cut
.

away according to directions and put the buttons on the

,

hoe in just the correct positions The result is likely to

,

be very pleasing
.

.
 Bo o t a nd S h oe P a t t e r ns . 1 7

To get the fly mark round the large quarter front top

and bottom I f you have no curve for fi y take about the
, ,

middle of the leg at the top for a start and bring down in
.
,

D IA AM
GR 24 .

as correct a sweep as possible until you come almost to

vamp line Then finish from bottom up S diagram
,

. . ee

24 .
 CH AP TE R V .

C C ULA V A P IR R M .

To cut a circular plain vamp place the standard dia

gram a pi ce of paper mark around the forward part
, ,

1 2 on e

of it and back to the curve i back of vamp This makes

, ,

ready to get out the one ha lf vamp

.
;

The length of finishing the vamp at toe is to be just

.

the same as point of standard Draw a straight line on

the top going one s i xte nth of an inch below at the highest
.

-
e

point on toe A also the same at end of curve of back

“ ”
;
of vamp B This will be equivalent for the seam that
,
”

will be taken ff the large quarter S diagram 6

.
,

o . ee 1 .

IA AM D GR 16 .

F old the paper at line A and cut out the half —“

”
B
vamp This half vamp if exactly duplicated in another
,

half will make a whole vamp as shown in diagram 7

.
,

This vamp gives too much stock all around the bottom
, , .

where it is lasted and the laster has much work to last it

in When the shoe is finished wrinkles are likely to how
,

in the shank The leather is drawn forward by the pincers

.

in lasting and everything e cept the bottom edge of the

.

upper is stretched so as to make the shoe hug the last

,

Consequently h shoe shows a fullness all around the bot

.

t e

tom This may be remedied by cutting the vamp sprung

,

down so that it touches the toe of the last rather hard at

.
,

first A fter it is pulled over the last and fastened with the
,

usual toe tacks the next pulls on the ides of the ball bring
.

the stock over the sole leaving less to be worked in

,
“

The best method for cutting the vamp is as follows

.
,

Place diagram 6 after it has been cut out on a piece

of aper large enough to cut a vamp M ark around it
1 , ,

p
and instead of folding the paper on the top straight line
.
,

,
2 0 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , an d G ra d ngi
shaped piece W W is cut f rom the toe eff ecting a ” “

saving in stock besides preventing shank wrinkles O f

, , ,

course this has a tendency to throw up the back of the

, .

vamp from the last and foot and if second lasting is omit
ted this is likely to show some in the finished sh oe I n
,

'

that case the production will be of such a cheap chara ter

.

that it will probably make no di fference I t does prevent

c

the vamp and quarter lap seam from pressing hard upon
.

the foot
R eferring to diagram 8 notice how corners
.

h t
are rounded of? at R T h i is for a double purpose I n
1 , e
“ ”
s
the first place the cutter will go around the corners with
. .

out stopping O must always cut by or over or beyond

,

ne
a corner to cut it clear Cutting b y d stock
.
, , ,
'

. e on w ast e s ,

I A AM D GR 20 .

while the round corner does no injury as the bottom of the

vamp laps on to the quarter su fficiently to cover it
,

Diagram shows h same vamp as shown in dia

.

20 t e

gram 8 h sixteenths on the back for beading or fold

1 tf
ing d ted line B B B B I t is rounded still more than
,
re e - ,

“
ot -

dia gram 8 but when the vamp is folded and ready to be

.
,

stitched on to the quarter there will be just about fi —six

,

ve
h of an inch left on the round so it will do no harm as
,

t e e nt s

the lap seam of quarter will cover it There is a saving in

, ,

the am un of leath r w h en cu ting vamps as shown in di

.

o t e t
agram over hat h own in diagram 7 The up p r
20 t s 1 e

draws much b tter accoun of the toe being sprung

.

e on t
d own The forema n h h a fair fund of common sense
. w o as
 B oo t a nd S hoe P at t e rn s . 2 1

and is at all m hanically inclin d will have no trouble

ec e

fol d ing the vamp it w ill b easy for h vamper to guide

,

so e t e
it in lap as dott d line s h ows where to co m m ence and fi
e n

ish at h rounded c rners This is e sential as if h p

,

t e o s t e o

on the ski vi g d folding mach ines are not prop

.
, ,

e ra t o rs n an

erly instructed they apt to skive and fold aro und the a re

place cut round to save stock and his would not leave a
,

t
p int for vam p er
,

o .

OU N N CO N E R DI G OFF R RS .

S hoes are produced now with so little per pair profit

to the average manufacturer that any little p oint of saving

IA AM D GR 21 .

reall y worth while L ook at diagram notice the two 2 1 ;

bottom corners of the quarters This idea is in practice
.

in a large f actory producing ladies shoes The m f

.

’
a nu a c

turer stated that it saves a good deal in a year both in

.

stock and time of cutting for the cutter does not have to
,

stop at the corners Not having so much to turn in it

,

is easier to last at the heel seat Numerous tests proved

.
,

that the manufacturer was right

.

A t A diagram h bot om f the quarter is

.

“ ”
t t
round d ft to save stock I t also ac s as a guide for h
, 22 , e o

e o t t e

sti cher This may repr sen either plain or b aded fox
.

t . e t e

i ng .
2 2 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng
, , a nd G r d i ng
a

Diagram 3 r p resents a foxing rounded at the low

2

er corners to save st ck showing by dotted line A the

e

allowance for beading or foldin g I t is cut ff at C di

, , ,

“ ”
. o

IA AM D GR 22 .

ag l l y to prevent a lump f rming in folding

o na o A ll cutting
that is n cessary should be done in the cutting ro m wh en
.

e o

tl
if

Di a n

IA AM D GR
'

23 .

the shoes are cut so that the operato in the stitching r

room will not have o casion to use sciss rs and j d gm nt
,

c o u e

The parts attending the folding of the foxing losing

.

of the front and back seams pu ting the foxings on and

,

, t
 B oo t a nd S h oe P at t e rn s . 2 3

staying the sho s should recei e clos attention A gauge

e v e

should be permanently at ached to h machine for g uid

, .

t t
ing h work as to h depth of seams I t will hardly be
e
’

t e t e

neces ary to say that the smaller h seam taken the less
.

s t e

lump there will be The opera or should not be allow d t e

to trim with hand shears O f cours if h seam is rubbed

.

t
a l ittle previous to sta y ing it d es no harm A good many
. e , e

manufacturers howe v er allow the fo t of the staving ma

, o .

chine to do all the rubbing

, ,

Clo e the back and front seams of the quarters A lso

.

fold the foxings and close the back seam Next titch fox
.

ings on the quarters after which stay the quarter down the
.

back through foxings and quarter all at one operation

,

This prevents a double thickness of staying where the fox

.

I A AM D GR 25 .

ing is lapped on and really strengthens the shoe at the

back seam the stay being in one piece
,

There has been a good deal of complaint about the

.
,

stitching of the edge of the foxings unless they are first

cemented on T h is is not necessary if the machine is
properly adjusted U se a sharp feed relieving the strain
.

on the pr sser foot

.
,

R eferring back again to diagrams 7 cut

.

8 9 1 1 1 20

vamp s each way and test the savi g of st ck W hen

, , , ,

‘
n o

cutting vamps aft r diagrams 8 and 9 throw the wings of

.

e 1 1

the vamp out towards the centre of h ski n at every p

,

t e o

p i y for the wings or the toe of the vamp or

o rt u n t , , , a ny
2 4 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , ,
a nd G ra d i ng

corner of a quarter will turn and cut alm st clean the o

stock left from the throat of the vamp

,

A fter getting the fly prick through A B

.

” “
o ut at

corresponding with the lines L H diagram f

, , ,
“ ” “ ”
1 2 or

the purpose of having the same point at that place f

, , , ,

or

width of top facing and height of lining and C Point “

ff where the bo tom of the first scall p will com as place

.

o t o e

to fini h h bottom f p facing th t l wer edge of it

s t e o to so a o

will com the juncture of the first scallop s thus

,

at two
preventing it from ever coming into the button —hole U se
-
e ,

this fly to mark around for the fly lining which in this case

.

is cut solid from leather as illustrated in diagram 5

,

Dotted line A represents the mark around the front

, .

“ ”

o f the fly This fly being solid leather is set back about

three —sixteenths of an inch on the cloth lining as ill
.
,

u s t ra t

ed i diagram 6
,

n 2 .

B at u .

IA AM D GR 26 .

I n taking the regulation one —fourth inch seam the

cloth lining the leather fly lining b ing so set back only e

requires one —sixteenth inch seam Take the three six

, ,

inch from h sheep fly lin ng patte n so th t

.

h
t e e nt s t e i r a

the curves will come right This gives line B diagram 5

,

Then cut away the bottom at D so as to give the opera

.
.
,

“ ”

tor guide in fitting the shoe (see D diagram and to

a

allow the lining to be thrown back in vamping without any

,

hand shearing S lip the fly back until the front strikes

the line B diagram 5 so as to get width at F E and
.

“ ” “ ”

mark around as dotted line F F A dd one sixteenth

,
2 , ,
“ ”

inch as per line E E M easuring from the bottom by

-
.
,

means of the fly around the line F F it will be found

, .

“ ”

that top dotted line A which had been laid out runs too
,
“ ”

far up and would make the lining too long at that place
Prick through diagram 4 at D This gives line P
.

“ ” “ !
2

diagram 5 the correct one

. ,

2 , .
 CH AP T ER VI .

U TTO N B FA C N F L Y AN D TO P I G .

I n diagram 7 is made a fly lining the front part of

2

which is cut from cloth and the button hole piece from
,

DI AGR AM 27 .

I A AM D GR 30 .

sheep This cloth snipe is closed on to the leather at

seam A dotted line B showing the lap and being
.

” “
, , ,

IA AM D GR 28
.

cloth is stitched on evenly at the front edge of the cloth

lining but when the stitch reaches the i ntersection of the
,

;
2 6 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng
, , a nd G ra d ng i
cloth and leather at the bottom D it will take but one
sixteenth ff from the leather at that point
,

With either of the above fly linings use top facings as

.

shown in diagrams 8 and 9

,

2 2

Diagram 8 shows the top of the large quarter and the

.

2
'

top of the button fly laid out with the necessary spring b

t een fly and quarter at A to do away with the surplus
e
“ ”
w

D I A AM
GR 31 .

D IA AM
GR 29 .

IA AM D GR 32 .

lining or fullness that is m im This top facing

so et e s s e en

is cut to be seamed at the back as by this mean s it will cut

.

cheaper A t the bottom of the back of the facing (see

,

B ) it is cut under enough to match the one fourth inch

.

“ ” —

seam in the lining and will absolutely prevent a wrinkle in

the lining at this place
Diagram 9 shows the top facing for the small quarter
.

2
 CH AP T E R I I V .

OLE FO X E
WH -
E A L E V A P C LOT QUA TE
D OR S M SS M S, H R RS AN D

LNN F LY I I GS .

F whole foxed or seamless vamps cut standard

or —

fro m diagram except in dis ection d number it

1 2 -
s an

diagram 35 U diagram to g h front of

, ,

se 1 2 et t e

quarter and back of vamp for b y doing the lining trim

.

so

mings and button fly can be used as in diagram

, ,

1 2 .

D IA AM
GR 35 .

Decide the back of vamp at A diagram 35 and draw

vamp line A A allowing the usual distance for l p of
, ,

“ ” “
a

quarter Then draw dotted line B B Cut through

, ,
” “ ”

on both l ines and take out the piece representing h lap

.
, .

M ark around the standard diagram 35 and find it in

t e .

diagram 36 on which draw the line to fold A A ” “ ”

striking the back line of vamp one sixteenth inch under the
, , ,

standard line and about on line with the toe of standard

E d the vamp the same length at toe as the standard I f the
.

n
cost of the vamp in cutting were not a factor to be id
.

c o ns

ered it would be well to drop the toe down at least three

as to take a gore out of the toe of the vamps
,

eig h h i h
t s nc so

This would reduce the amount of stock around the bottom

.
,

of the last but throw the heels of the vamp so as to cost too
much to cut
,

.
 B oot a nd S hoe P at t e rn s . 2 9

ome do this and say they can get tongues or button

S
flies out of the centre B the stock that can be cut into
. ut

I A AM D GR 36 .

a vamp is generally the best of the skin too valuable to be

used in either tongues or flies This vamp if
,

h l
'

cut w o e,

is generally put on the shoe by a cylinder machine and

.
,

hen stretched by bead and presser foot would be too

,

long Cut it ff at the rear from one eighth to three six

,

-
o -

h inch as seen at E The dotted line D D rep

.

” “ ” “
t e e nt s ,
.

IA AM D GR 37 .

resents the vamp as it will be after the folding at line F “ ”

F is taken ff The dotted line H sh ws where the

“ ” ”
o o

vamp is divided into front vamp and foxing The foxing

.

in this case is generally closed on and afterwards stayed

.

with a doubl e needle machine the same as the front and

,

back of the quarters I f desired the vamp can be cut so as

,

to lap on the foxings in which case the shoes can be

. .
,

vamped on a flat bed ma hine the same as a circular vamp

,

I t is as well also when cutting this whole vamp pat

c , .

,
3o D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng
, ,
a nd Gr d i ng a

tern to allow a little extra at the shank as shown at K

diagram 36
, ,

O f course the quarters of this shoe are got from the

.

standard di gram 35 as in the circular vamp except if i

,

a n
tending to use the linings of diagram use the small
, ,

1 2 ,

Ji l te d?

IA AM D GR 38 .

quarter obtained from that to cut ff an equal a mount on o

the small quarter of diagram 37

Now cut and fit a cloth top shoe foxed as shown in
.

diagram 3 U se the vamp and linings taken from dia

2 .

D I A AM
GR 39 .

gram 1 2 Here will be shown the advantage of a large

and small lining pattern A cloth top is fitted easiest when
.

the lining is fitted snug the top facing cut from h p h

.

en
“
s ee w

possi b le and the fly lining cut solid from leather and scal
,
 B oo t an d S h oe P a t t e rns .
31

loped This reverses the general way of fitting a leather

shoe and uses the lining of top to fit from in which case
.

it will be necessary also to have the top facing cut the

, ,

proper shape not allowing anything on it for beading as

shown diagram 38
,

in .

CLO T H QU A R T ER s

To g the cl h quarters mark arou d diagram 3

et ot n 1

laying ff foxi ng fro m standard d iagram dia

,

o '
S -
1 2 ee

gram 39
.

Dotted lines show where the leather quarters in dia

.

gram 3 come S ince one fourth inch seam is considered

1 .
-

I A AM D GR IA AM 40 . D GR 41 .

best for clo h and since one twelfth inch has alread been
t -
y
allowed in leather standard diagram add a little ov r one
. ,

e
ig h l inch here with the divi ders
,

t
When fitting this cloth top s h oe use the same lin i ngs
e i .

used in the leather top S figure that the inside of the

,

shoe will be the same as the leather shoe

.

Where it is possible use a whole button fly lining

.

hen fitting the shoe from the lining

, ,

No matter where h fitting commences whether on

.

t e

the small quarter or at end of button fly place the lining

,

about one eighth f an inch from th edge of the cloth out

,

-
o e

side for h small quarter has a guide to place at the end of

, t e
32 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d ng i
the lining at the back of the toe seam K eep the lining one .

eighth of an inch from the edge all the way round the shoe
.

This will give one eighth f an inch of cloth not trimmed

.

-
o

away so the cloth will not fray out in beading .

LNN FLY I I GS .

To get the fly lining use the leather fly S dotted line ee

diagram 4 which is the line of the front of the fly but as

.
,

this fly lining is of l ather it should be set back on h

, ,

e t e

cl th lining three sixteenths of an i ch it is away fr m

,

o — n c ut o

nothing at h top to b ut three sixt n hs as it runs

,

t t
down The no ch shown at A i to allow h lini g to be
e a o -
ee

t s t e n
thrown back in vamping without us ing hand h ars
.

s e

Notice that the tops of the cloth quarters diagram 39

.

are cut straight from one high point to the other This
, ,

costs no more than to cut down to the cu ve and is less

.

I t also aids to hold the clo h firm r hile

r

trouble to
,

c ut t e w
being clos d on
.

Diagram 4 shows the l h fly with the fly lining lined

.

c ot

inside (see lines A A A A

1 l

“
and the front of
” “ ” “ ” “ ”

the top facing and cloth lining dotted in (see dotted line B )
, , , ,

and also the outside line having the line of the clo h fly t

The fly lining is scalloped

This d cribes h pr p r fitting of cloth th t h
.

es t e o e a as no t
been backed p Cloth that is backed up may be cut
“
u
” “

from the l a her patte ns and fitted as lea he hoe are

.

e t r t r s s .
 CH AP TE R V III .

O N OLA E A E V A P Y P Y U TTO N OOT

\V O M A N S
’
D G B D D M G S B B .

Next cut a woman s dongola beaded vamp gipsy but ’

ton boot To save time use diagram and by marking 1 2

around it get diagram 4

.
,
_

2 .

IA AM D GR 42 .

I t will be apparent to any one h the toe fi w v n

i h d to a poin
s e I is asi er to las as there is less l a h er
t t e t, e t
to last in th n if cut strai g ht
.

U se the small quarter made for l ather and h same

a .

t
linings and facings I n equip ping a factory this wi ll
e , e

reduce h nu m ber of patterns O f co rse while

.
,

t e u

saying this it must be understood that there must be pat

.
,

terns for di fferent styles of lasts but use the same general
.

standard provided the shoe to be cut is to be put on the

,

same last I n this day of progress it probably is useless to

,

discuss the l d me hod of trying to m ake one set of pa tern

.
,

o t t s
-

fit m any di f ferent styl s of las s Th is is l l wrong e t a

unless the body part of the lasts are similar and di ffer
.

only from balls fo ward

,

S ome factories use the same set of patterns for all the
.

di fferent styles of lasts I n one of these the proprietor

stated that it cost him 4 cents a pair for fitting button
.
,

b ts With hat sy tem i will n ver cost less in

oo t s t e

that factor and h w rk is d poorly at t at

.

t o ne

I n this f cto y six pairs of button boots have been

y, e o h .

a r
34 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d i ng

rip p d apa t and revamped in day This manufacturer

e r one

is a m n f large exper en e i n h b usiness and not long

.

a o i t
ago wanted the vampers to va mp h i s shoes it h ut fir t
c e ,

w
sewing or tack i ng they cal l it t h botto m ends of the
o s

as e

q arters d h operativ s s id it could not be done and

, , ,

u an t e e a

wo ld y it
,

not t r
A nother factory turn i ng women s fine sh es had
u .

’
ou t o

no pat erns for cloth shoes but cut hem by sliding the t
“ ”

cut all i dths shoes

t

leather patterns The sa m e f

,

ac t o rv w
d never h d ny hing b A C E pa tern in
.
,
“ ” “ ” “ ”
an |
t ut t
width I s i t economy
a a , , , s

.
?

IA AM D GR 43 .

I f a factory has many styles of lasts and patterns and

a wave or a i cu e p is used
c e rt amany of them n rv to on

why not if the top of set of patterns i s correct as to

I
,

o ne

height and width hold to that as a standard in getting

,

out

other or styles whether they are the same style last

, ,

ne w
or another B y this method the s me pa ter s can be
, ,

? a t n
used for top facings and not only save confusion and lia
b il i y of w ong cutting but expense in patterns If a f
,

t r ew

p f cings be wr ng by mistak hey m y be used on

, .

to a c ut o e t a
'

the nex case of shoes cal ling for the same style top
,

t .
36 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d i ng

on in th ir correct posi t ons is a positi ve rule d safe to

e i an

be relied on u der all c ndi i ns

,

n t
A few words about b ading A fter the shoe is firs
o o .

e t
closed stayed and the outside i closed on to the lin
.

” “ ”
s

ings observe the following words about second closing

,
“ ”

on the scallops
,

I n the first place in a good many factories the scallop

ing is done so po rly that it is almost no guide for the
closer on The shape entirely d pends on her skill I n
o
“ ”
e

su h factori s if the p erat r has learn d when first tart

. .

ing at t h at b h swi g h hoe i a s ead y even curve

c e ,
o o e , s

ra nc to n t e s n t
as it is stit h d and rimm d at the s m im and to make
,

c e t e a e t e,

a very udd n harp turn at h b m of h callop she

s e s t e
'

ot t o t e s

will g ni ce round scall ps as shown in di agram 4 5 i

et o , ,
h

IA AM D GR S 4 5 , 46 , 4 7 .

stead of a sort of round (see diagram 4 6 as to h d i ffer t e

ence ) b ttom or end of callops B how often are een

o s ut s

cases of shoes with the scallops all saw too h like dia
.

“ ”
t

gram 4 7 c aused entirely by the closer on wi gi ng the

,

s n
shoe much more rapidly on one sid of the scallops than
,

e
!

the th r hil th ewing m hi n is s itching and rim

o e w e e s ac e t t

mi ng
There is but one remedy G et another closer on
.

for the one who has become accustomed to swing the shoe
. ,

in a wrong manner rarely unlearns and almost never learns

to do it correctly S calloping is done too carelessly and
,

has been done so for many years

.

Provided the scallops have not been thrown all out of

.

shape in closing on it is an easy matter to bead or turn , ,

 Boot a nd S hoe P at t e rn
s .
37

and cord the edges This beading done on a machine and

the machine in good order is an easy operation co mpared
.
, ,

to the old ha d —i ing process where h work was aecom

,

n t r t e

plished by main force and then pounded by hammers The

great trouble with beading machines is they are not kept
, .

in good ord r The same a tenti n is not paid to them

e t o

that there is to the stitching machines

.

.
 CH AP T ER IX .

T HE SID E LA CE S HO E AN D C L A X U TTO N OOT

IM B B .

A side lace shoe is undoubtedly one of the neate st

— '

shoes ever worn by a lady for there are no buttons or

lumps of any kind showing on the sides and on a well
,

shaped foot made on a proper last gives a splendid

,

appea ance
, ,

Here is where the trouble comes in this shoe The last

.

must be very nearly orrect in form f there are no but

.

c or

tons to set over and if t h lacing is left open to fit the f ot

,

e o

and the last is not correct the f ront seam is crooked and h
, ,

t e

peculiar beauty f this shoe is lost This is h shoe that

, ,

o . t e

DI AG RAM 4 8 .

shows up a bad shaped last This is the shoe that demands a

well shaped foot Try some of your lasts with a id 1
.

boot if you are at l l in doubt of their being corre t I t is

-
. s e ~ ace

a c

well to try wom n s mi sses and childr n s this way to

.

’ ’ ’
e e s ee

the actual fit of h las on th fo t The side l ace n ver

,

t e t e o — e

fails to how up def ts b ack f h ball

.

t
However thi sbeing a nice shoe on the foot it i s a p
s ec o e .

one for which cut the pattern I f not cut right it

, , e

cu liar to
is di fficult to fit and if cut right it is one of the e siest
.

M ark around a standard obtained as directions were

, a .

given for diagram 1 and call it diagram 4 8 F irst get the

,

large side as shown in diag ram 48 Then draw the lace

.
,

line A A being particular to have it come well for

.

“ ” “ ”
, ,
 Boot a nd S h oe P at t e rn s .
39

w ard at the bottom This will allow the shoe to go on the

foot easily M a k where the back quarter laps under the
.

front quarter at B G et out a quarter for front and another

. r

for back punching stab holes at lap B as a guide for the

.

vamper L y ff the top of the li n ing positi n as L

,

“
a o o

then the bottom of the facing as H

.
,
“ ”
.

F ONT A C QUA TE
R AN D B K R RS .

I n g tting out the front and back qua ters add on the
e r

bottom as shown in diagram 4 9 front qua ter and diagram

,

back quarter in both of which dotted lines A A

, r ,
” “ ”

50 , ,

I A AM D GR 49 .

show the bottom line of the large sides as taken from the
standard B B shows the addition for allowance for the i n
side shank to make it last easier The allowance is also
.

shown in diagram 4 8 at bottom

.

Next mark around d iagram 4 8 from L to L to get lin

.

ing and add one eighth of an in h all around the bottom

,

— c ;
in the shank put a little more (see di gram 5 ) and take f
,

a 1 o

if for M K y elt f c nter as B Put fr nt quar

c a o -r w or ou on o

ter (diag am 49) venly all around front and d mark

.

r e t oe , a n
round h back of it whi h leaves d ted line C after
t e , c ot
“
,
4o D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng
, , a nd
“

G ra d i ng

which cut out a pi ce from

e t he lining hr e sixteenths each
t e -

way from dot ed line C

t
“
.
”
Se e line D D “
.
”

I A AM D GR 50 .

One piece of pattern will do for both sides of the lin

ings for the shoe as one is cut without the hole and the
, ,

B i mS I .

IA AM D GR 51 .

other with Next get side facing which is so simple an op

cration that diagram 5 only need be shown

.
,

2 .
 Boo t a nd S h oe P at t e rn
s .
4 1

I n fitting place it on the lining with the hole in the cen

tre line in the centre and stitch it on as shown in diagram .

IA AM
D GR 52 .

53 Close the two linings (drill ) back and front after which
with a pair of scissors cut the p and bot om open at H
.
,

to t

I A AM
D GR 53 .

when the linings are ready for the top facings To get the
top facing mark around standard diagram 4 8 from H to H
.

,
42 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng, , a nd G ra d i ng

which is shown by lines A A on diagram 54 pointing ff o

at H H diag ram 4 8 for width of facing Then from

,
“

one—sixteenth of an inch at top B B diagram 54 cut under

, , .

until at the bottoms C C it is one fourth of an inch

.
, ,
“

which will fit the lining seams at the front and back U se

-
, , ,

front and back quarters to get the ends D E as shown in

.

diagram 53
,

IA AM D GR 54 .

Then stitch the top facing on the lining after which

the lining is cl sed on b the edges of the outside com
,

o y

i g at the bottom of the side stay at one side and so

,

m e nc n
keep up stitching till clear around the upper
,

CL M A X N OO T I B U T TO B .

Next ake a very peculiar bu ton boot Commence

t t
marking around s t a dard diagram and down the
.

bv n 1 2

front of the qua ter so that the same vamp may fit using
, ,

r , ,

IA AM D GR 55 .

the same lining patterns as well as trimming patterns

This boot known as the Climax is generally cut from
.

heavy stock such as grain l ather The vamp is used

, ,

-
e

plain not beaded This gives the quarter by drawing a

.
,

straight line as indicated by dotted line A F old h p

.
,
“ ”
t e a

per and cut out the qua ters as illustrated in diagram 55

.

r , ,
 CH AP T ER X .

O A N L E A T E CO N E W M
’
S H R GR SS .

Next take a woman s leat her c ng ress M ark around ’ '

o

standard diagram a d g utlin aft r wh i h mark

.

1 2 n et

gore as illustra d in di agram 57 A lso lin A where

, , o e , e c
“ ”
te e

the sh e is di vided into fro t and back qu rters B C

, .

“ ” “ ”
o n a

O f cours omm n s nse would tea h that h lower the

.
, ,

e c o e c t e
bo tom of the goring the asi er the sh e wi ll go on the
t e o

foot but again if it i too l h shoe will yield at that

,

s ow t e

poin wh n bei ng worn

, ,

t e

However we will dissect the standard and get front

.

quarter diagram 58 Do ted line A shows the allow

,

“ ”
, . t

IA AM D GR 57 .

ance for fol di ng hre —sixteen hs of i ch I may be t -

e t an n t
beaded on top if desired
.
,

Diagram 59 shows the back quarter and the lap is

.

shown at B dotted line while dotted line C shows the “ ”

folded edge I n getting a congress of any kind width

, ,

o ut

of goring must be one f the first considerations (diagram

.
,

for after laying ff the bo tom f the g orin g the

,

O t o -

height of top of hoe is g d m re or less by h wi dth

,

s o ve rnv
c o t e

of gore to be u d se

This congress is simple O can see that to make it

.

ne
in cloth or serge it is only necessary to add the diff erence
.

in seams The linings can alm st be cut from the outsides

, ,

but would come a little short on the bottom and would be

.
,
 B oo t a nd S h oe P a t t e rn
s .
45

full the heel where

on t he counter comes Diagram 60
shows the gore
.

lDim é a f

D IA AM
GR 60 .

D IA AM
GR

D IA AM
GR 59 .
 CH AP T E R X I .

U TTO N OO T T OLL E
B B WI H R D TO P .

To illustrate a button boot w i th a straig ht top rolled

over inside S diagra m 6
,

M ark around a s and ard say in this instance diagra m

. ee 1 .

t
as will be seen by the lines Dotted line A A is the top
-
, .

1 2

of diagram
, .
,

1 2

To make a roll top it will of course be necessary to

.

allow about one fourth of an inch higher as the shoe to be

, , ,

finished will need to be 6 inches high at the back finished

,

from the vamp up to look well A dd to line B B cutting

, ,

ff diagonally at C C that par is to roll over inside con

, .
,
“
o t
sequently it should not be so long
,

IA AM D GR 61 .

R oll the top from nothing at the corner f the small O

quarter at D diagram 6 until it gradually turns about 1

three sixteens f an inch at E (diagrams 6 and and

, ,

then make an even roll until reaching the button fly at A

-
O ,

diagram 6 gradually unning to an even bead at B as

,

1 r

shown in diagram 6
, ,

This method also allows an even bead up the front f

.

the small quarter as il l d i diagram 6 3 until reach u s t ra t e n

ing A when it r aches B diagram 6 3 it is full roll This
, ,

”
; e

method is adopted because the lining can be closed on to

.
, ,

the outside at one O i operation f stitching c nt nu o u s O .

B oo t and S h oe P at t e rn
s .
47

D IA AM
GR 62 .

Dl AGRAM 6 3 .
48 D e s i g ni ng , C u t t i ngo r
, a nd G ra d i ng

Th ref ore the clo ing will be no mo e expensi ve than

on

the regular evenly beaded shoe A fter being closed on the

e s r

work of beading is no more than a regular even bead ; but

.

the beader can do a much better job at this shoe if she il l w

Work with the linings toward her for then she can see how
the be ading is being done
,

B y referring to diagram 6 it is easy to follow the line

.

of rolling on the whole or large qua ter then on the smal l

,

quarter and on the button fly

,

I t will be noticed at P diagram 6 that the end of the

.
,

large quarter and fly lining to match are dropped or slightly

, ,

, ,

IA AM D GR 64 .

cut under This is where they go under the vamp and it will
be found that there is plenty of stock still remaining
.
,

S pringing the fly if one chooses may be done I t w i ll cer

.

i l y cut as cheaply by straighten i ng that way and no b

.
, ,

ta n o ~

to it appear except it m y cause more wrinkle

,

j i
e c t o ns a s

at the throat of the shoe Diagram 64 will show very clear

,

l y the respective tops of large quarter and fly as to r ll top

.

R eferring again to diagram 6 the heavy line all

.

round is the but on fly proper while the dotted line is the

,

t
fly lining setting back on the cloth lining in front at C C
,

and coming out flush with the top face lining at D

, ,

.
 B oo t a nd S h oe P at t e rn s .

While on this point it is proper to say that it is prefer

able to use a solid sheep napa fly lining on roll tops or

though of course by educating the help one can get results

, , , ,

in most unexpected cases A t a large factory making w o

men s shoes a specialty in the S tate of M aine all kinds of

.

shaped tops on button boots are rolled successfully even

where one woul d suppose it was practically impossible
,

the foreman of the fitting room was a man who did not
.

B ut

know the word can t in his departmen He simply i

“ ’ ”
t n
sisted on go d work and finally his help had become ex
.

perts at roll tops Th y make a ver y neat finish

o

. e .

IA AM D GR

R eferring again to diagram 6 see at L and H where 1

the lines are drawn This gives the height f p edge of

, ,

o or to
the lining and the bottom of the facing obtained by mark
.

ing round the standard and diagram 6 Recollect that

,

the top of the outsid rolls down so the top facing will be
.

cut three eighths of an in h narrower than it shows drawn

— c

round the p of standard diagram 6 one fourth of an inch

to 1 -

for allowance and one eighth of an inch f llowance to

,

-
or a

where it is seamed on quarter

The top of standard as shown on diagram 6 5 is marked
.

A A A A and the front B The fold of top is d tted line o

C C The top of facing is D D

, ,
.

“
. .
 CH AP T E R X II .

F O N T LA CE O E R SH S .

F ront lace shoes come next and of course it is best to

take a dongola M K y say a 4 C M ark around standard
c a

diagram which will give the lines f a button boot

.
, ,

1 2 o

Then starting at h back of the vamp as shown in diagram

, .

t e

6 6 begin to away the front so that i may be open

,

c ut t

slightly when lasted and h i is first put the foot

, ,
'

w en t On

since it must be made to accommodate h foot with a low

, ,

t e

i nstep as well as to fit a high instep by leaving it more or

less Open at the lacing The shoe will also stretch after
, ,

wearing a few times so it will draw cl ser together at the

.

I A AM D GR 66 .

lac i ng but the amount to cut away must be determined

;
p t ern cutter T h re are various opinions and no fixed rule
t
can be given A ttention is dire ed to the fact that it i s
a . e

ct

cut away on the quarters gradually from the back of t h

.

v amp up to the p O ft n the fi ter who laces them to

to t
gether with cord of some kind prev i ous to the i r being
. e

las ed draws them so closely together that they cannot

,

t
separate su fficiently while being lasted to find their normal
,

condition Thus fastened a shoe cannot be properly lasted

,

The laster is then held responsible where the whole trouble

. .

is in lacing S hoes coming to the laster with the buttons

,

on correctly or laced correctly are a pleasure to last p

.

ro

i d d the pattern is cut r i ght I t is asking too much of the

, , ,

v e .
52 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d ngi
67 and so far as the bottom and back line are considered
they resemble the lines of the lining of the butt n boo I n
, ,

t
front the line A shows the front edge of the front fac i ng
o -
.

“ ”

which is the same line as the fr nt of standard diagram 66

,

However o b serve i is cut away about one eighth of an

.

t -

inch from near the bottom end f the quarter at B until

,

near the top C so the lining will not have to be away c ut

with the hand shears after the front facing is stitched on

, ,

There are two guides one at the top and the other at the
.

bottom to place the front facing correctly The toe seam

,

runs about one eigh h of an i h above the end of

.
,

-
t no

IA AM D GR 70 .

the quarter Noti ce the slit E at h low end f t e er

-
o

the front facing see diagram 68 I n sti hing the

.
, ,

tc
“

front f ing on h li ni ng the i h h ould run ff

.
,

ac t e st to s o

at E and the par marked X sti ched h ou gh t not t t r

but left loose Th i s will enable the Operator to close on

the shoe d the vamper throw back the lining without
.

an to
the necessity of its go i ng to the table girl to be cut in
,
“

wi h the hand sh ars and is a n ater d less expen ive way

t e e an s

The linings are closed at the back ready for the p facing
,

to
diagram 69 in which dotted line A shows the top of
.

“ ”
See

facing line B shows where the quarter is folded and line

,
“ ”
;
 Boot a nd S h oe P at te rn s .
53

C hows h top lin f qua ter I t is bes to

s t e e O r t
allow a littl extra on h front end so i will not
.

t t

run sho t A fter closing the quarters on ei her a

e e

r t

but ton b ot or lace that rolls inside at h top be

.

-
o t e

sure and stop ff h cloth stay on the double needle ma

,

o t e

chine some three e ighths of an inch from h top it will

-
t e or

make a bunch where it is turned over When staying all

,

roll top work the operator should commence at the bottom

.

of the quarters as it is easy to cut it ff near the top To

,

out the quarter to be folded down the front see diagram

.
,

et

the dotted line A representing the fold where it is to

g ,

“
7 0 , ,

IA AM D GR 71 .

roll Over and dotted line B the front line to where it will be
finished after h front folding is done Care should be
,

t e

taken to first close up to the corner C and then swing so

.

“ ”

as to follow h break at that point as the quarters should

t e
be closed clear to the edge but on a line with the outside
,

This quarter is not cut for an outside stay or facing but the
.
,

one in diagram 7 is a duplicate of diagram 7 ex

,

A fter leaving guides A A by

1 0

ept it has no fold i f

,

c n ro nt

which to place front facing on correctly i is cut away so as

.
‘

t
to reduce the thickness in front instead of cutting the
,

quarter full down the f ont edge and then putting on the
,

r
54 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng
, , a nd G ra d i ng

faci ng by the dge all the way down and having

a table girl cut this away with hand hears I t
e
“ ”
s

is best to use a trimming knife on the m

.

no t a
chine for this purpose as i allows h Operato t t e r

to away ma erial wh ich is ne ded The cu ting

,

c ut t e t
of it away in h pa tern saves hand l abor a ut er
.

t e t as c t
will cut just as many qua ters in an hour this way as he will
,

IA AM D GR

in the full pat ern and then the surplus stock i nstead of b
t e

ing on the floor where h t ble girl has cut it ff is in the

,

t e a O

skin to be cut into something else Diagram 7 shows the

, ,

facing cut so as to be plain edge I f fold is wanted simply

.

add it and then fold the edge before putting the facing on
.

the quarter
,

.
 CH AP TE R XIII .

C LOT QUA TE E LT O EH R RS AN D W SH S .

Diagram 7 3 represents a cloth quarter cut for a foxing

and on it is shown a pa en l ather front facing with h
.

t t e t e
fold on O f course this facing should be folded before b e

ing p l aced in its present po ition D tted line A

.

“ ”
s o t e

pres nts the front i the cloth qua ter as well as d tted line
.

A A all aroun d Dotted line B represents the front of

e o r o
”
“

fold on facing before i is f ld d L ine c i the fr nt f

.

!
t o e . s o o

IA AM D GR 73 .

facing wh n fini h d L i e D back of faci ng L in E

e s e n LS e

at the bo om sh o s where the foxing edge wi ll b

. .

tt w

A fter closing on the top it goes to the beader S teady

e .

or mov bl iron or fingers or irons are far better

.

no n no
than vibrating Ones for all str ight work A fter op rator
-
a e ,

a an e

be o m es accu tom d to it h can do more and bet er work

.

c !
s e s e t

O a flat anvil with no irons f urn ing for h roll

,

n -
or t -
s e can

the necessary mount by manipulating the outside or lining

,

with her fingers Turning irons are suitable where punch

.
56 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , ,
a nd G r d i ng a

ing out is required and on crooked work but they of no a re

straight work D not use any cement or paste or

, ,

use On O

other adhesive substance in turning or beading S imply

.

turn and the gauge f mount f roll is given by trying the

.

-
o xa o

curves of the front facings where they are to be stitched to

,

the outside Do not allow h operat rs cemen t e o to t

the outsid quart rs h linings alo g fr n
.

h to t n t t
tav or fac ing U se
e e e e o

s- c ment pas e glue here no e t or

operator h s it h s the outside to the facin g

.
, .
,

Th e w o t c e

can hold them correctly at no extra expense or trouble and

if the patterns cut correctly there is no use of fitt i ng
,
“ !
a re

them by table girls That expense will thus be saved

,

“ ”

and the shoe is not hardened at t hat place I f the shoe has
.
,

no b eaded front the trimming knife a be us d up h

.

c n e t e

fron hen cl ing on but if it be fold d or have a f lded

,

t -s w os e o

ou side facing on it must be sti ched and the li ing fron

, ,

t ,
t n t

IA AM D GR 74 .

facing b left extended a little and afterwards sheared ff

I n women s shoes where too soft material for inside front
e , O .

facings is u ed there is no way except to let the shoes go to

s

table girls who trim out the inside facing with hand h ears
,

The shoe is now ready to be vam p ed after the eyelets are

, .

put in
B y cutting h patterns acc rding to his dir ction i
.

t e o t e t
will be found hen you come to va m ping that the lini g
,

w n
is d to be thrown back and no hand shear w rk A fter
, ,

re a v o

vamp ng close h eam of h lini ngs in a lap seam and

.

i t e toe s t e

then s itch (on the machine) across h l er end f the

,

t t e ow o

tongue a li ttle below h end f the q art rs T h is serves t e o u e

to reduce the lu m p the p oin of juncture of many

, .

at t so

thicknesses Then tack clear hrou gh b th qu rters and

’
t o a

h t ngue w h i h will hold the tongue in pro per position

.

t e o c -

while h strain if any will c me if h to gu is pulled up

, ,

t e , , o , t e n e ,
 Bo o t a nd S hoe Pat te rn s .
57

on h end f h tongue where it is s it hed fast to h

t e o t e t c t e
lining
The getting out of a misses shoe of kind is so
.

’
au v

similar to woman s that it does not seem necessary to ’

dwell upon it O f course the ball measure of the last gov

erns h ankle me sure of button bo t patterns However
.

t e a o

the at ention of all is called to h very large heel measure

.
,

t t e
often seen in misses sho s caused b too much and too far ’

I t is suggested
e y

k so called instep m asure of the last

,

b ac e

also that h best way to the shape of the last from the
.
, , ,

t e t rv
ball back to the heel is to make a pair of side lace shoes
,

on the last and then try them on a fairly well shaped foot
,

No ice the front seam on the foot A ttention is called to

.
,

diagram 74 which was a 3 1 2 taken from a spring heel last

.

1 -

in which the h lines A B C D represent the wrinkles

, ,

ea vv

so often seen in shoes worn b y misses O cause of these ne

is hat the throat curve is often made too straight A nother
.

is the last M ould your spring heel last carefully and while
.

so d oing mark the place where last maker calls instep

.
,

yo u r
measuri g position of your last on mould and after
,

n y o ur

you h ve obtained your standard see if that high point in

, ,

last does not come about where V is in diagram 74

,

y our

Rather a strange place for an instep

.

E LT W S .

I n ma king welts use a M K y pattern just as it is c a

except h vamp which should b about 3 6 smaller all

, ,

t e e 4

round the outside until coming near the lap on the quarters
which should be l ft as M K since it is to fi on the M c
,

e c ay t
K y quarters and the shank wi ll require about the same as
,

around h outside of h vamp if one can

,

McK y B a ut t e t e

save 3 6 of s ck h pat terns for h welt vamp will cost

.
,

to t - t
nothing I n getting a pat ern entirely d exclusively
-
1 ,
e e

out t an

for turns make h curve at the back of the leg con ider
.

“
t e s

ably straighter than for M K y or elt for in cond last

,

c a w se

ing a urn the h el of h la t tre ches out the heel of the

,

t e t e s s t
upper and results in a much sharp r curve in b ack of the
leg of the hoe han pu s in the pa tern A curve that
,
e

s t o ne t t
may lo k all right to the when the top of h l g f the
.

o ey e t e e o

emp y sh e i drawn up b the hand will b m t s arper

t
when on the f ot f the ankle is h n rounded p I f a
o s y , e u h

o or t e u

shoe is stu ffed with cot on or some similar sub tance cle r
, .

t s a

up to h top one can see the curve the l g will have on

t e

the f t I f much
e

be in the back it will result in

,

oo t oo c u rve
I

the heel of the f ot working up and d wn and the f t ill

.
,

not be cr wded back in the heel of h shoe I n other

o o ,
oo

t
'
o e

w rds the hoe on h foot will act somewhat on h prin

.

o s t e t e

ip l of b ll ws
,

I n such a case the leg of the shoe is really too far for
c e a e o .

ward and carries the foot forward leaving the heel of the
,

, ,
58 D e s i g ning C u t t i ng
, , a nd Gr d i ng a

foot moving up and down thus wearing the heel of the

lining and tocking out I f you exa m in h heel of h
,

s e t e t e

lining aft the shoe has been w rn a hile you will find it
.

- w

w rn through I t is a good idea to all vamp p tter s

er o ,

o c ut a n
from me al even though the r st of the be bou d as
.

t e s et n o ne

can th n alter the vamp if it be a li tle too l g d i is by

, ,

e t ar e, an t
trifl esthe profit on s h es comes nowadays
o .
60 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra i
d ng

that it be fini shed as seen at C diagram 7 5 R efer

ence to diagram 77 will show how the foxing is got out
, .

from the standard diagram 7 5 The dotted line A on “

diagram 7 7 repr sents the stock allowed for folding as

.
,

this is to be a beaded fox i ng

e ,

fi la 77

I A AM D GR 77 .

OL E QUA TE WH R RS .

Diagram 7 8 shows a wh le quarter got out from h o t e

same standard with the allowance for beading or folding

on in front Di agram 79 ho the fox qua t r Noti e ws

points A B where h stock of the qua ter is cut away

. s r e . c
“ ” “ ”
t
to prevent a double thickness I t also se ves as a guide
, e r

to ass ist the operator in stitching it on A t the front the

. r

outside lacing facing will be seen with the allowance for

.

Di e 7 8 . ,

IA AM D GR 78 .

folding on it C C shows h line of the quarter cut away t

so as to save t ck in cutting and save all hand hearing I t

. e

s o s

will giv two positiv guides D E for h operator to p l

.
,

e e t e ace

the facing in the right position also a guide will be noticed

, ,

;
at H “ ”

S ome foremen or forewomen insist that it is necessa y

.

to cement the outside stay to the quarter after the front

edge has been folded to assist the operator in stitching it
,
.
 B oot a nd S hoe Pat te rn
s . 6 1

I t would not seem nec ssary if these guides are given for
e

holding it on
,

The style of the stay may be changed as desired but

.

the fronts of all should fit where the guides are S low

,

IA AM D GR 79 .

down your folding machine if it run so rapidly th t the s a

operator cannot guid su fficiently fa f it but f l d facings st

on the machine A lways ha v e the fold r in go d order

e or , o

e o

Next get out vamp diagram 8 which is a duplicate

. .

, 0 ,

IA AM D GR 80 .

of h vamp obtain d for a button boot

t
A few mo e words about dropping the toe of h
e e .

r t e

vamp Drop it h n h stock is oft and h shoe or boo

w e t e s t e t
-

is held by any m thod on the in ep when being last ed B

.
,

e st . ut
62 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng
, , a nd G ra d i no r

o ne must decide such m at rs f him self b y resu l ts h te or o

i d in each individual factory

t a ne
Diagram 8 shows the foxed quarter with the fold on
.

in fron — R eferring to diagram 7 5 notice straight lines

t
!
O
”
P Th e e repr sent the endi ng of the leather
“
s e

quarter lining at O and the back of the cloth toe lining

.

“ ”

at P “
.
”

D IA AM
GR 82 .

IA AM D GR 81 .

This is the cheap way to l i ne the oxford and of course

there is an in ide laci ng facing on the cloth li ing as may be
,

s n
seen in diagram 8 which is h facing and diagram 83 in
2 t e

which may be seen the cloth lining with the facing attached
, , ,

A represents the line f facing as finished while B

.

“ ” ”
o

represents the line of the standard ; E is the point end of

,
“ ”

Die m fi
x

IA AM D GR 83 .

the quarter as got from the standard D is where the -

front l cing is cut in to throw back the lining without any

,

a
hand shearing or table work There should be no cement
or glue used on the lining anywhere There is no use for
.

any
.

Diagram 84 shows the quar er lining and it is got from

.

the qu rter by marking around which give dotted line

a , s
 Bo ot an d S h oe P at te rn s . 63

A Now as the outside quarter is to be tur ed over n

about three sixteen hs in fitting of course it will require
.

-
t
so much l ess at h top of the lining Drop down d
,

t e an

ahead about t hree sixteenths as sh wn on line B on top

.

' “ ”
-
o

and d tted line C at back then cut under at D for

,

“ ” ”

coun er for M K y sewed A lini ng for turn work hould

o ;
t c a s

be cut d iff l Diagram 85 will how the do ed line

.

e re nt v . s tt

DI CLI EW

IA AM D GR 84 .

A h line of the tandard d down the front lin B

t e s (
an e
“ ”

is the line of the fro t f h quarter

, ,

n o t e

This line may be cut in y form for instance as dot

.

an

ted line C s h ows but of course in such a case h back

, ,
“ ”
t e

of the l h li ing mu t be mad to correspond

, , ,

c ot n s e .

D IA AM
GR 85 .

The corner cut out at D is for the pu pose of allow r

ing the lini ng to be thrown b ck without y hand she r a an a

ing or able work as t h end f h lining quarter at E

t e o t e
“ ”

c mes wh re i is vam p ed This also tak s out the lump

, ,

o to e t e

that would b there if h qua ter was b ad d clear down

.

t
and und r the vamp I t is b st to add al g h front edge
e e r e e

e . e on t e
64 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , ,
a nd G ra d i ng

of the quarter lini ng abou ig h h in h so to let it t o ne e a

t c as

proje t from the fr n of the out ide qua ter to trim away
, ,

t
afterwards I f it be a beaded facing on the ou sid or a
c o s r

t
beaded quarter the onl y practical way to t im out the lining
. e,

is with hand shears for the stock u d in the quarter lining

,

is too s ft to all w a tri mm r to be us d successfully I f it

, se

o o e e

be a plain edge qua ter hen of cour e it be tri mmed

.

r t s can

ff in closing on by the m ch i n
, , ,

“ ”
o a e

Diagram 86 shows the cloth lining and standard mark

.

w ill be seen in the dotted line .

IA AM D GR 86 .

To fit the shoe with the least trouble (a) close the quar
ters d tay them topping ff the stay thr e eigh ths inch
an e

from the top (b ) close the heel s am of the qua ter l in i ngs
-
s , s o

; e r ;
(c ) stitch the cloth linings to the quarter linings (d ) clos ; e

around the top of the quarters on to the quarter linings ;

(e ) roll the top on a beading machine using no urning t
fingers (f) stitch all round and down h fr nt then eyele
,

; t e o ; t
vamp and close h toe seam of lining S t itch the tongue
, ,

t e

to the cloth li ing three ei ghths inch ahead of the end of

.

n -

th quarter to prev nt so much of a lump at vamping point

e e

tacking thro gh h qua ters and tongue

, ,

u t e r .
 CH AP T ER XV .

AN EVE N E A O X FO
B D RD .

To make an ven bead oxford round h corner of the

e t e
quarter so the operator may cl se the outside on h lin
,

o t e

ing at one operation and allow on the top of the quarter

,

lining about one twelfth inch so the operator can close on

,

with a trimming knife B efore the oxfords are l s ed they

,

. a t

IA AM D GR 87 .

should be laced slightly open Probably the best way to

do th t having all open alike is to provide a wedge haped
.

a -
s

piece of iron or wood fastened to the lacer s bench and

, ,
’

when lacing the shoes lace around the wedge

,

Diagram 87 sh ws a neat xford to fit the a m e lin

.

o o s

Diagram 88 shows ano her which cuts very cheaply

t
I t is called a plug circular vamp U se the same linings as in
.

.
-

IA AM D GR 88 .

preceding styles I t is just as well to have but one set of

linings for all oxfords to be used on the same last provided
.

they are all the same outline

,

Diagram 89 show ano h r style of oxford obtained by

.

-
s t e

marking r und and throu gh standard di gram 7 5 at line

,

a o a

of curve of vamp as at diagram 89 B so that one m

,

“
ay

use the sam set of lining pat terns

,

e -
.
66 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , , an d G ra d i ng

I n cutting his style (diagram you are referred to

t
diagram 9 for half vamp I f the paper be folded on line
,

A (diagram it will give a whol vamp I n th s the

0 ,
.

“
,
”
e . i

Die 37 . .

IA AM D GR 89 .

lacing facing uts very ch ply d by pu ti n g a piec of

c ea an t e

leat h er or clo h i h vacancy D (di gram 89) i makes

,
“ ”
t nt e a t
a very nice style The piece of insertion s h ould be cut as
, ,

diagram 9 and as dotted line A shows the edge of the

.

”
1

IA AM D GR 90 .

facing I n diagram 9 it is cut und r about one eighth 1

inch to prevent too much thickness at lacing edge I n

.
, e -

diagram 89 the in erted piece is shown all round by dot ed

.

s t
lines
,

IA AM D GR 91 .

To get the facing in d iagram 89 spring up just enough

Cut a pattern from the hole D as shown in diagram 9
.

“ ”
2

using it as a guide in fitting

,

.
68 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d i ng

Diagram 1 32 shows a pattern u ed s to mark t he g o re

so as to fit c o rre ot l y
-
.

IA AM D GR 1 33 .

Diagram 33 h ws the quarter lining cut from sh p

1

and at A the dotted line h ows the line of h pen i ng f

s o ee ,

“ ”
s t e o o

h vamp
t e

Diagram 34 sho s h sheep tongue lining d tted

.

w t o

line A h m g h edge of the centre piece

1 e ,

s ow t e .

IA AM D GR 1 34 .

Diagram 35 hows one half of h drill vamp lining

1 s t

it being folded at A I n getting

-
e

h patterns
,
“ ”
c ut out t e

for this sh oe three sixteen h inch s h ould be added at E

.

— t
-
s
“ ”

diagram 3 to fold befor it is fi ted The first operati n

,

1 0 e t o

will be to fold at E then to p gores in where they b

.
,
“
ut e

long using ceme t or glue d taking diagram 3 to

,

,
n , an 1 2

Dil J

IA AM D GR 1 35 .

mark the gores A fter l ting the cement stitch around et s et

the g re close to h edge f the leather from F to H (dia

.
,

0 t e o

g am
r one row Next close tongue lining to qua ter . r
 B oo t a nd S h oe P a t t e rns . 69

lining at B (diagrams 33 and and this should be 1

a clos d and rubbed s am Next stitch vamp lining to the

e e

quar lining and tongue lining Then close the h el

.

t-e r e

seams of vamp nd lining after which place the lining

.

inside the vamp d stitch a row all round u ntil you reach
, ,

an

the gores T h s cond row of it hi g will f sten the lin

e e st c n a

ing in Then trim ff h surplus lining on the top

.

I n la tin g this shoe care and judgment must be

. o e .

s ex er

i d
c se S ince the front or instep line is cut under the line
.

IA AM D GR 93 .

of h l to all w the gore to d aw fii i l y on the foot

t e as t o r s-u c e nt

t h la ter m y draw it d wn som in the shank but not too

,

e s a o e

much S om forem n think it b st in m aking any gored

,

e e e

sho to s itch in or two pie es of drill webbing from

.

e t one c or

one side of the gore to h other so as to preven h str in t e t t e a

in lasting coming h ll on h gore When the shoe w '

o v t e

com s ff the last trim out h pi c s with hand shears

.

e o t e e e

Diagram 93 shows anoth r style o b tained from same

.

o tlin A represents cloth D d line C is line to

e
“ ” “
ot t e
-
u e

fold B is the leather vamp O f course the edges of the

. .

“
. .

‘‘
Di d . if

IA AM D GR 94 .

facing and the fancy cut dges will be raw as there is no e

stock to fold but they may be thinned down

,

Diagram 94 shows a cut for oxfords called E lec

, .

tric Th is can be fold d on h edge where h inse ti n e t e t e r o

plug goes
.

or

Diagram 9 5 shows a Newport button or button

.

0 x

ford The gen ral id a of d sign is balanced all throu gh

e e e

and the cutting and fi ting exactly the same as an ordin

.
,

t
70 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng
, , a nd G ra d i ng

ary button boot in fact it is only the lower part of a but

;
ton boo t
Diagram 96 is a S out h ern tie and a very popular
shoe ( 897) on the Pa ific coast This is rather a peculiar
1 c .

IA AM D GR 95 .

shoe to fit and yet easy if the pattern is cut correctly and

no table work Y ou will notice that all the propositions
, ,

unusual in pattern cutting advised in this work are for the

.

purpose of obviating the uncalled for table fitting or as

,

“
-
,

IA AM D GR 96 .

it is sometimes called pas ing formerly considered ast

necessary as sewing machines
,

The beading on this shoe where the lining is stitched

.

on must of n cessity be what is termed even cord as the

e
“
,
”

3 1d 97 .
,

IA AM D GR 97 .

ear where the eyelet h oles are will not admit of roll Their
shape precludes such a result The standard diagram 96
, , .

is got as usual from the last after which lay out vamp line
.
, ,

and lap then the tongue and quarter The back of the
,

;
tongue must not be too far to the rear or the shoe will be
.

,
 B oo t an d S ho e P a t t e rns .
71

di fficult to get on the foot The outline of the vamp is

shown on diagram 97
.

IA AM D GR 98 .

D i agram 98 sh ws one half h tongue as obtainedo -

t e

from the standard h line being the fold This is for a

t e

tong e with no seam in it Where a seam up the front

.
,

is desired better lines can be secured by cutting the front

.

to the cu ves desired

,

r .

IA AM D GR 99 .

When lasting a whole tongue southern tie have h t e

laster put a little paste in between the outside and lining

,

of h tongue as it then dries to the shape of the l st and

t e a

holds its curves better

, ,

D I CL I OO .

IA AM D GR 10 0 .

Diagram 99 hows the quarter wi h the vamp lines

s t
dotted
Diagram shows half the vamp lining cut for
.

1 0 0 o ne -

th drill and the t

e d rd in dot ed li n s shows how g
s an a t e to et

the vamp
,

.
72 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d ngi
Diagram shows the quarter lining cut i n such a
1 0 1

manner as to vamp through leaving plenty of room

no t
for h count r The margin to cl se on by wi ll be e n
,

t e
arou d the top I t is cut in at A for the purp se of allow
e . o s e
“
n o

ing the tongue to be fitt d in

.

I n this plac e it is pr ferable to s i ch h ngue li ing

e .

e t t t e to n
on to the vamp lini ng first S titch the tongue lini ng to . on

D I QLI OI .

IA AM D GR 10 1 .

the tongue h t ngue to h front of the vamp care bei ng

t e o t e
taken not to stitch through the vam p lini n S tit h the
, ,

quarters on to h quarter lining down to the sl it A d i

g c
.

“ ”
t e a

gram B ead h qua t rs stitch h v mp on leavi g

,

1 0 1 t e r e t e a n
h lining l oose then s i tch h va m p lining to the qu rter
.
, ,

t t t
lining from A diagram
e e a

down to the b o tom

,

. 10 1 ,
t .

IA AM D GR 10 2 .

Diag am is a S outhern button I t is about h

r 1 0 2 t e

same fitting as h S uthern tie exc pt the sh e q i

.

t e o e o re u r

ing two quarters as one must be long enough to fold so as

,

to make h button fly and the other is short only taking

,

t
I t being a circular vamp makes it cut cheap
e

h but ons
, ,

t e t
er
.

.
 CH AP TE X V II R .

T A P A N AL OP E A s S s R S D S AN D R u rp as .

A one S trap S andal has been a very favorite shoe in

Canada and most Canadian ladies who wear low cut shoes
seem to prefer this to any other A good deal depends on
,

the last this sh e is made on as to its fit on the foot A n

.

O xfo d la t is not the corr ct

.

o ne

A last to make a good fitting strap sandal should be i

r s e .

d toward the rocker b tom and e pecially the “

cli ne ot s s o at

toe while for opera slippers a real rocker bott m last

,

“ ” ”
; o

is required though with proper judgment some spring in

,

the shank may be used O of the points in fitting a san

,

ne

dal i h b i d i g There have been improvements in the

.

“ ”
s t e n n
m chanism f binding d the crude in which it was
.

e or an w ay

forme ly d n by titching it fas on one e d ge then turn

,

r o e s t
ing it over and ti ching h ther down is out of date
, ,

s t t e o ,

IA AM D GR 1 36 .

A n E nglish bind r on a cylinder sewin g machine e

with a feed at both top and bottom does the work

well The work moves along very nicely and gives
,

good results H ever a good pera tor is quite an assis

.

ow o - t
ance T h binding hould fit h binder very accura ely
.
,

e s t e t
and it will be necessa y to see that the needle sews a little
.
,

clo er on the outside ed g e h an on the under side of the

s t

binding
A nother part of fitting on sandals is putting in the lin
.

ing S ome fit ers paste the lining in nearly edge to edge

t
then trim out the lining to the edge of the outsid with
,
.

hand s h ears I t is usually better to stitch the lining to the

e

outside with a coarse stitch using a trimming knife on h

.

t e

mach in before bi ding S ome factories cut h lining by

,

e n- t e

the outside When the st ap is pieced his brings the

.

r t
s am f h pi ce in the same place b th in h lining and
.

e o t e e o t e
 74 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd Gr d i ng
a

ou side B if the trap is made wi th h seam in a di fferent

t ut t e
place it reduces the lump at tha p in I n l a ting a sandal
. s

t o t s

or in fact any l cut shoe that is not held h in p by

.
,

ow at t st e

lacing bu ons or some oth er way it is wr ng pull w i h

e

tt o to t
the pin ers in the sh ank or be h ind h ball of h l ast as
, ,

t t
such a hoe can be dr wn of shape in such a man er I t
c , e e ,

s a o ut n
is di fficult to make a really first cla s line of bu b
.

d t t -ou oot s a n

low cuts and have hem las ed by the same lasters A ls

s

t t o

if making strap sandals or sandals of any ki d t hey should

, .

n
not have the buttons put on until they are finished for if
, ,

, ,

IA AM D GR 1 37 .

put on before the la ter is liable to butt n the strap and trys o

to make it hug the instep

,

Diagram 36 shows a two strap sand al

.

Just cut a whole vamp and a f te ard cut it p i eced

1 .

rw s

as at A The strap one half is cut separate (

, ,

“ ” -
se e

diagram 37) and folded at line A Di gram 36 sho s

, ,
“ ”
1 a 1 w

h re it is stitched on the vamp This makes a neat

.

w e ve r v

and cheap slipper the straps being fasten d with but ons on
.

t
the ides I t is generally bound on h edges
,
e .

s . t e .

IA AM D GR 1 38 .

A nother sandal is shown at diagram 38 I t i s 1 an

other cheap cutter as compared with i finished appear

.

ts
ance R eferring to diagram 39 it will b seen how cheaply 1 e

the vamp cuts

.

A g od m ny vampers have us d a drill lining in the

.

o a e

top of b utton and la e oots sometimes using a f stitch c b a ne v

across it wh re the bo t m of the facing would come if one

,

e t o
were us d B it is rare such a lining is e n wi h ou bad
e ut t t
rinkles especiall y I the back curve D iagr m 4 1
. s e

w , ( ou n . a 1 0 1
76 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng
, ,
a nd G ra d i ng

in diagram 9 I t is shown with a straight cut

t ra t e d 1 2

seam with the full line while the curved line shows h
.

t
pr per way to cut it A s may be readily seen if this side is
, e

closed and stayed as the back of a bu on bo t it will r sult

.
,

tt o e

in the top d bott m edge bei ng reduc d in length hile

, ,

a n o e w

the centre will bulge and show a fullness This will cause
,

it to hug the foot and last under better This upper must
.
,

not be dropped at the toe of the vamp and should not be

, .

touched with the pincers back of the place where the

,

vamp comes on top of the last A llow three eighths inch

for lasting this shoe and three sizes longer than the last
.

in

for turns all owing to co ditions N early all opera slipp ers
n
are m re or less made turns People q i d with h
.
,

o -
u naic ua nt e t e

methods and facilities that Haverhill M as possesses would

.

hardly believe h cheaply turns can be produced

, ,

ow .
 H AP T E xv1 1 C R 1 .

m CO N E T P
A wo AN s
'

GR SS . I S .

Diagram 4 shows a serge congress the qua ter

1 1 r c ut

as usual Diag am 4 shows it in an improved way to

,

r 1 2

save stock
.

IA AM
D GR 1 41 . D I A AM
GR 1 42 .

IA AM D GR I43 .

Diagram 4 3 hows the way it i sually cut and dia

1 s

gra m 44 shows the saving i the new way wh ich w i ll aver

s u ,

1 n ,
 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng
, ,
a nd Gr d i ng a

age one and one hal f yards of serge saved on 6 pai r cases
-
0

O f course the vamp will be som what str ighter on h

.

e a t e

fron line in a finished shoe but the lining being cut to the
t
shape of the last serves to plump it out
, ,

The 4 cut seems to want more p ulling down at the

.
,

1 2

sid es of the ball in lasting but being serge is drawn dow

; , , n

D IA AM
GR 144 .

very easily I n fact i can be lasted at the sides wi h h

t t t e
fingers A hoe fro m this pa tern will n ver become squatty
.
,

s - t e

as a serge congress ften d oes O f course such a shoe is

.
,

not expected to be ve y stylish

.
,

r .

D IA AM
GR l45 .

The next will be an ordinary patent tip (diagram 4 5) 1

c utas usual while di gram 4 6 is the sam tip to save

a 1 e c ut

stock and gives the same appearance in the sho

,

45 e as 1 .
 Boot a nd S hoe P at t e r ns .
79

I n putting tips on shoes it is well to have them about one

eighth inch back from the edge of the vamp all around for
,

then the tacks just catch and a good deal of stock saved
,

D IA AM
GR I46 .
 CH AP T ER XI X .

OE M EN ’
S SH S .

I n starting on a m n s tand rd i is n ce sa y to se a
’
s a t e s

lect a last a n d of course a mi ddle size say a 7 or 8 also

r

; as

to width a 3 4 ide if h go d are be fine and a 5 or

, ,

w t to
B e g in wi h a fine M c
or e o s

6 wide if the go ds are to be oarse

, ,

o c t
K y sewed button as i will probably be best suited for a
.

t
start A fter h ving s le ted the last draw h li nes up h
a ,

t t e

front and down the heel as ce ral as the y gi ves it The

. a e c , e

nt e e n
proceed to get a paper mould as d scrib d for g ting it in
.

et

omen s work A fter obtaining the mould mark around

e e
’
w

it and add one half an inch to h e bottom for lasting S

.

— t ee

diagram X This one h lf i ch added is add d on h

.
,

I oo .
-
a n e t e

IA AM D GR 10 0 X .

bo tom of the last for stock la t over d it very heavy

t to an

stock to be used may require m re A fter that measur

s ,

o e

down from h mould at h heel to btai n the floor line

.

t t
A E rec a p rpendicular at h l B
e e o
“ ”
t fourth of an
e e e
“ ”
o ne -

inch inside h full pa t of h heel

.

t t
A fter drawin g the perpendicular at the heel measure
, e r e .

up five and one half to six inches from the bo tom of h

,

— t t
last for h height of h back of the leg G enerally it is
e

t e t e

be t to cut h leg higher h en the sh e is coarse d

.

s t e w o an

cheap tha when it is to be a fine shoe The cu ve at the

n r

back of the leg must be put in with the eye in absence of

, .

any assi tance su h as pr pared curves c

A fter get ing the back curve find out the gi th of h

s e .

t t
ball of the last M ake the fron of the ankle across her
, r e

. t w e
 Boot a nd S h oe P a t t e rns . 81

the back curve is sharpest the sam m asure half the ball e e as

after adding su fficient for front and back seam Then slant
the top of the leg in fron back oward the heel as the ankle
.

t t

will require to be larger where the ankle bo e comes

, ,

n
When h sho is on h fo t the swell of the ankle j int as
.

t e e t e o o

it projec s takes p the leath r so as to curve h b k of

t u e t e
‘
ac

the leg of the hoe a good deal more t h an it curves when

s

the hoe is ff Th is promin nce of ankle joint is much

s o e

grea er in men t h an in women

.

t
S hoes made on the wider widths of lasts are generally
.

for stout people while the reverse applies to thi n people

Consequently in ge ting out pa t erns this should be taken
.
,

t t
into consid ratio
,

n
A fter ge ting the front of the leg to get the top so me
e .

t
eye judgment must be used so that h sh e will look well
,

t e o

Put in the throat cu ve which will be much straighter or on

.
,

a lar er radius th n th at used on women s shoes for the

, ,
’
g a

same reason of the lesser cu ve on the b ack of the ankle

The ankle joint pushes out the upper at the point aga i nst
r .

which it rests acting upon the back of the ankle and the
throat in such a manner as to curve it inward
,

I f h top of the last is too thick it will cause a fullne

.

t e ss

ju belo h ankle joint and upon standing ith the

,

st w t e w

weigh f h body upon the foot wrinkles will be observed

,

t o t e

r nning lengthwise of the foot between the ankle joint and

the p of the vamp A fulln ss extends over the counter
u

to e

wh ich will probably settle in o small wrinkles after the

.

t
shoe has been worn a f times ew

Th se small points if obviated in lasts and patte n ill

.

e r s w

certainly r sult in a sh oe of be ter appearance both ff and

e t o

on the fo t o

Next ythe la t with the size stick B etter allow four

.

tr s

sizes more in leng h of pattern until a di ff erent llowance

.

t
is found necessary A good trial or two will se tle such
, a

t
poin s and no positiv e allowance be laid down as con
.

t ca n

i di ff erent fac ories so

, ,

di i
t o ns n t va ry
T h di f ferenc in the st ck used in the vam p s is great
.

e e o

and allowance of length mus be governed entirely by what

,

t
-

is necessary I f h factory cuts no hi ng but calf or any t e t

stock with a b o t h same amoun of stretch in it of cours
.
,

u t e t e

it is easy d termin the al l owan e

,

to

I f the pattern man who works for a f v whether

e e c .

a ct or

he be in the fa tory doing the work outside i s a man of

,

c or

good sh oe facto y x p erien e which i necessa y to suc

,

cess d is also end ed by nature w i th a good fund of

r e c , s r

an ow

c mm n en e h hould be all d a go d d al of lati

,

o o s s e s ow e o e

tude He h ould how in r su l ts hat his end of the busi

,

s s e t
ness is load d down wi h means of saving in many ways
.

t
A m who is re lly good on pat erns should also be really
e .

an a t
go d in all his ide s of fitting shoes He should be capable
,

o a .
 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , ,
an d Gr a d i ng

to go in o the fi ting ro m with his ideas I f he adv nces

t t o a

any on s w h eth r they be original or borrowed they

.

ne w e e

should be horou ghly tried and if found beneficial ado p ted

, ,

t
We have now the standard for a m s but o shoe
.
, ,

’
an t n
exc pt laying out the vamp and the lines of lap on the
,

qu rters The len g th of vamp is governed entirely by

i deas I n his measure ff on the toe about fi eighths of
a .

t o ve -
an inch for lasti g d th e m asure back four in hes as
.

n a n n e c

length The hei ght of the back of vamp or golosh is also

a m tter of opinion in this standard
.

m p line C allow one third in h

.

Af
“
l yi g h
t er a n ou t t e va -
c

for lap whi h gives h b tom f the quarter sh wn by

,

c t e ot o o

dotted line D but hen reach ing h f lap of vamp

, ,

“
w t e r0 nt

on the qua ters all w a lit le surp l s ock so that when h

_

r o t us t t e
vamp in b ing s itched on if ve y soft stretchy material
,

e t , r , ,

IA AM I I D GR O X .

it w i ll still fi d pl ce to ca ch on Then cut out the lap on

n
'

a t
standard and round the of vamp up to strai ght fold
.

t oe
line E “

I t is now an easy m t er to get out the quarters per

.

t
diagram I O I X I t is well to ro nd f t h bott m A
a as
“ ”
u o e o at

as it takes out h lump Dotted lin B shows the lap of

.
,

t e e

vamp and lin C s h ows the smal l quarter cut away

.

“ ”

Th is is usuall y l f a squ re corn r D Th top f

e .

“ ”
e t a e at e o

the qua ters are sti tch d to h lini ng clear across both
.

r e t e
qua ters until h fly is r c h ed hen the upper is rolled
r t e ea t
over at the p so turn d wn inside about three six
,

to as to o -

teen h of an inch Wh en sti h d around the small quar

r
-
s tc -
e

ter the front is ei her stitched down on the lining and the
.

cloth lini ng trimm d f? and left raw edge or the cloth

,

e o

lining is folded by hand so that the folded edge will be

,

ju t right to make a smooth lining The small qua ter is

s . r
 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d ngi
diagram X and d d aro nd h edge Dia
Use I OZ a u t e

gram X is also seful get out h fly lin ing S dia

.

1 O2 u to t e ee

gram 4 X
.

I o

A fter foldi g h fly it is best to clo e it on to the large

.

n t e s

qu ter l aving h top down wh ere h p of the

,

ar e t e to t e to
qua ters will b rolled w hen fi nish d b before closing
,

r e e ut

ut ide to h lini ng it is well to fit h butt n fly

,

th e o s on t e t e o

lini ng on h lining I will b n ticed i d iagram 4 X

, .

to t e . t e o n 1 O

1 0 4X .
.

IA AM D GR I O4 X .

that there is l f t on i front at A q e in h to fold n o-

ne - una nt e r c

over and mak a stay by sti tchi ng throug he

The m rg in B is l ft on to trim ff after being

.

“ ”
a e o

closed on O f cou s i i not n c ssary to leave h

, ,

r e t s e e t e o ne

quarter inch on i fron if does not care to make it

.

n t, o ne

ans er for s ay
w t
A man button may also be cut clo e i same
.

’
s to s on n
way as h straight p oman s This redu h ex
t e to w
’
ce s t e

pens b some do like i as i l av s an even cord

.

ut not t, t
d down h s ide f the fly I t d es v ry ell me
e, e e

or b ea t e o o e w on

d i m pri ce d work however

.

-
u , .
 CH AP T E XX R .

N N N VA CO CER I G “ PS
. .

Next get out a half vamp from diagram X and I oo

call it diagram O SK
,

Th is vamp g from the s and ard would nearly

.

as ot t
al ays be long where i is vamped fit h qua ters
w t oo t to t e
caused princip lly by the stretch in vamping I t is usual
r ,

to cut ff at h heel say three sixteenths f an inch as dot

.

o t e — o

D IA AM
GR I OS X .

ted line A in diagram sX b some of large experience I o ut

claim h t it is str h d on h bo tom in fi ting and

,

t a no t eto
- e t e t t

does need sh rt ning hen e at h p cut ff only at

no t o e c t e to o

dotted line B
,

“ ”

Wher one uses a machine (cyli nd r) wi h a feed both

.

e e t
und r the work and the f ot also feeding h vamp will not
e o ,
t e

D i m /0 6 x

D IA AM I
GR 0 6 X .

str tch so m uch

e

A nother way to prevent in a great measure the

.

stretching of h vamp is to fo t line with a piece of drill

, ,

“ ”
t e o

from the heel to the ball by cementing it on the vamp while

it is s ill flat This erves also to prevent h vamp from
,

t . s t e
 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , ,
a nd G ra d i ng

str ching so much whil being las ed Vamps from

et e t c ut

calf or any small skin where it is necessary in getting g od

.

vamps to keep the to the b ck bone and h els to the

, ,

t oe a e

flank are sure to stretch if t preven ed in some manner no t

A nd now about vamps being closed at h heel or
.
, ,

t
made to in erlock I f it be desired to h ave a hoe draw in
e ,

t s

the very best possible mann r i is best cut the vamp so

.

e t to
the fore part is abou on a line with the top of the last
,

t
This will give it jus abo t the proper spring and in p
.

”
t u a

tent leather i is lmo t necessa y to adh re to this plan as

,

t a s r e

this is a shoe be h andled carefully

,

to
I n standard diagram X h vamp is got out with
.

t
out regard to closing at the h l or in erlocking A n inter
I oo , e
I
ee t
locking rev rsing vamp so as to t the heel of one i to
.

or e cu n
the throat of h ther is shown in diagram 6 X Round
,

t e o I o

flf the lower cor er of the heel as i t some imes saves stock

, .

o n t
and is easier cut
,

D id J OI X /

IA AM I X D GR 0 7 .

Diagr m 7 X h ows a standard from the s m l st

a Io s a e a

as diag am X and the same ou lin but i also shows

r I oo t e ; t

how interlocking vamp is got at h fir t e ffo t l so

,

an t e s r a

leaving h sides i g of h vamp as high as p ssibl

,

t e or w n s t e o e

and still have them in erlock

‘

t
I n making it interlock the spring of the vamp may
.

not be just as the last would call f it for in t h is case it

,

or

is governed by the amount of opening or throat at h

,

t e

hee l
, ,

G et h fold line of the vamp in the foll wing way

t e o

F irst it is n cessary to g h one half throat D E with

.

e et t e — at

dividers Th n p l ace one p i nt of divider at H and m as

, , ,

o s e
'

ure twice which gives you F This is h width of the

.
,

“ ”
t e

vamp at heel S that one half the measure from E to O

.
,

ee -

is measured up from F by finding it at K hich gives y

.

w ou

h fold as shown at dotted line P This gives the line to

, ,

t e .
 Bo ot a nd S h oe P a t t e rn s . 87

fold to get h alf of h vamp and if done carefully a revers t e

ing vamp that will not waste any stock in cutting will be
,

the result
R egarding men s vam p A right d left vamp i
.

s —
’
an s

ne ded on the called bull dog of circular vamp b

e so -
“ ”
e

cause the toe is so far to the inside and the outside ball
,

swells out so much I n factories cutting the finest shoe

,

hich a good price is obtained patter s are general ly

.

f or w n
cut right and left L sts as the majori ty are made have
,

the comb and the shanks in uch positions relative one to

.
, ,

as to preclude the possibility of a perfe t sh e

,

h h
'

t e ot er c o

fr m a straight pattern
o

This may not give quite h vamp desired but the

.

t
heights at sid s will be all possible get I n wide lasts
e ,

e to
a good vamp is got this way and as the coarser grade of
.
,

shoes are mostly made on wid lasts h shoes come out

,

t
very s isfact rily I t is said by manufacture s that i is
e , e

at o r t
quite a savi ng to have two styl s of vamp patterns in cut
.

ti g some s ock of large spread one to revers and h

n t e t e
same vamp closed at h heel and to have the cutter
, ,

t e , ex e r

D ia l Of X .

IA AM I X D GR 0 8 .

cise hi judgm e t in cutting by using ither or that which

s n e

cuts b st in ach cas

,

I n practice his really saves le her I n coarse goods

e e e .

t at

they are often run right toge h r in vampi g so m e open

.

t e n
d some clo d h els put ame case of h es R
,

an th se e on e s s o e

d l y h two shoes of pair were made di ffere tly

.

p e at e t e on e n
one wi h the op n vamp h other with h cl se d
,

t t t e
heel A ft ward it
e e o

i m poss ible for any one to

,

er s w as

tell which was which one deci d ing one way and the next
.

the contrary d after a f days the same person in more

, ,

an ew

than one instance s lected h opposite from h one he had

,

e t e t e

selected formerly
To get the closed heel vamp take h half vamp got
.

t e -

from diagram 7 X d by marking around it as seen in

,

I o an

di agram SK g h fold line A Then to h ave h toe

1 O et t e
“ ”
t e

c rrect mark around the as line B which w ill cut

, .

”
o toe
away h surplus as shown by do ted line C F a last
,
”
t e t or

with a very hollow shank this spring vamp is as go d as

.

if the stock to be i fairly heavy I t gives a sur

, o

a ny , c ut s
T

plus i stock draw into h shank

.

o to t e .
88 D e s i gni ng C u t ti ng , , a nd Gr d i ng
a

To get the lining for the bu ton sh e mark around

o ut t o

h standard diagram X which gives line A A dia

,

” “ ”
t e I oo

gram 9 X and through the vamp and quarter lap This

, ,

gives lines B C A dd on all around the b ttom about

1 O ,
.

“ ” “ ”
o

three sixteenths f an inch ( line D ) and h en cut away

.
,
“ ”
-
o se e t
down the h eel from line of vamp as seen at E P on “
ut to e
seam from bottom of q arter Nex take ff fourth
.

u t o o ne -

inch at t p as shown by line F for the top of the ou side

.

“
o t
is to roll over Notice li ne L which marks ff the p of
, ,
“
to
the lining I f a top facing is to be u ed line H s h ows bot
.
, o

tom f facing When closing h outside on h q uar

.
,

o t e to t e

ters let the clo h lining project above the quarters a little
.

t
to prevent fraying out but if a p facing is to be used close
,

; to
on with a small se m only
,

Common sense te ches th at the quarters will roll a lit

.

tle more ith a full lining than wh n a facing is used The

w e .

IA AM I X D GR 0 9 .

extra roll is cau ed by closing the qu rters on a little lower

on the wh le lining I t is usual to s itch an inside back
s a

sta y on the lining d wn to h vamp lining leaving lining

o .

o t e

and stay entirely loose from vamp line to h bot om This

,

t e t
allows h h e to draw the last N hing will then i
.

t e s o to ot n
wi h h counte beside it does away with the lump
.

f
t e r e re t t e r,

caused by seaming This hoe is ge erally vamped through s n

the lining wi h good results
.

t
I t may be as is sometimes the cas that it will be nec
.

e,

es ary to d d say one eighth in h up a l ong the instep on a

,

s a -
c

standard when getting it out for a button shoe This p a

plies when rather large s am is to be taken up h front

.

-
a e t e

in fit ing h shoe and when a

t t e is to be made of the fly sta y

lining to preven the si d e of h vamp from b wing up at

,

t t
that poin in lasting A ll such ifl s h ould at once be
e o

t tr es

rem died b the p attern man

.

e v .
 CH AP T E XX R I .

E N LA CE C O N E LA T N
M
’
S AN D GR SS . S I G .

The la ing of men s shoes is a matter on which a good

st
’

deal could be written I n the fir t place consider hand s

la ti ng A prevailing opin ion is that a man s upper should

.

not be back lasted I t is claimed by some that more stretch

s .

can be g out of a shoe to back last it

.

ot

hoe should be drawn well over the toe a tack or

.

Th e s

two driven and h sides of the toe and the heel fastened
,

t e

ell before the sid s of the ball are lasted I prefer the
,

w e

tacks at the toe on h end of the las be drawn after the

.

t e t
side tacks are in and so allow the u p p er to be la ted along s

b all w i h ut the la ter having to rk against the

,

th e t o s wo

straight line of the vamp strained len gthwise .

D I AG R A M I X
I I .

If ish s to use hi own mixture on a p tch of

o ne w e s a

cloth for a b I would recommend powdered glue in ox ,

liquid ace ic acid adding rye flour until it is of the right

t
con i stency O il of cloves in i t is good to prevent mildew
,

or mould
.

A s to lace sh es to match h button boot just d

.

t
scribed M ark around standard diagram X and through
o ,
e e

I oo

vam p and quarter line S wing back from the d of quar

.

en

ter at the front bo tom end to bou fi sixteenths inch

.

t a t ve -

at top front more or less if you choose This gives a lace

standard There is nothing special to get out for this as we
, .

have the vamp in the button shoe and to get out the quarter
.
,

is simply to mark around the quarter in the standard T h

,

lining is obtained the same as in the button except the front

.

,
90 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , , an d G ra d i ng

line and that is obtained from the quarter while the front of
the lining should be away under the facing on the same
, ,

cut

principle in woman s I f a folded front is wanted on h

as
’
t e

qua t r i i put on and h am appli es h vamp

.

r e t s t e s e to t e

Common s e cuts p tterns a na ural gift g ts up n d

.
, ,

e ns a t e ew -
e

sign R ul s apply i all cas s if us d with judgment

,

n
There is no arb i tra y set of rules for pat ern mak rs
s . e e e

r t e

Th congress shoe may be taken n xt F i rst get

.

e e out

a whole va m p Then get a standard as for

.

o ut

diagram X but as here i no s am to b taken

.

I oo ; t s e e

o ff the fr t of the leg and as it is a congress cut under

on

m asu e slightly at th is point I f any oth r ch nge reduce

, ,

e r e a

the width at top f leg so as to make the gore hug the

.

leg d prevent any fulln ss that poi nt

,

, an e at .

DI AG RAM 1 1 2 X . D I AG R AM 1 1 3X .

Next lay out the vamp diagram X and lap on the I I I

quarters and gore M a ure ea h si d e of h centre of h

, ,

e s c t e t e

leg top f the gore making it as wide as de ired Then

.

or s

lay ff the l p of gore under h quarters after w h ich cut

, , .

o a t e

out all laps d use his standard to get h pie s G

,

an t t e ce et

out the vamp following with the back quarter and gore
.

as seen in di agram X and 3X

, ,

I I Z I I

N xt we will g the front qua ter pattern which

.

e et ou t r

we will use to in the quarters after they h ve been “

c ut
”
a

crimped S diagram 4 X This quarter we will use toee I I

get h cri m p form whi h may be a wood crimp or the iron

. .

t e c

form u ed on a crimping machine The front lin should

, ,

s e

be h arp n d at h throat or rath r the front of the leg

.

-
s e e t e e

hould be thr wn forward as seen in diagram SK in

,

s o 1 I

which the do t d line sh ws the fron quart r cu ting in

, .

t e o t e t
92 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng
, , a nd G ra d i ng

front pa tern from C to D and from D to E T hen place

t '

h finger on the place marked A d swing the front pa tern

.

t e an t
so to get another mark from H to K Then place the fi n
ger on spot marked L and s ing again keeping the front
as .

of the front qu ter near line B M ark from O to P after

,

ar

which mark across the top as at R This gives the amount

.
,

of stock roughly estimated after which an allowance is

.

made to compare with that shown in diagram 6 X

, ,

1 1 .

IA AM I I X D GR 6 .

There s ems to be no set rule hereby any one get a

e w c an

perfect blocker the first time as it largely depends on the

stock to be crimped the manner in which it is to be
,

crimped whether b machine or by hand or on a brake

,

I t also depends a good deal on the man who crimps i I t

.
, ,

t
is well to use the r le laid down as far as practical being
.

governed in many instan e by the case in hand S om times

,

c s e

repeated trials may be needed

.

D I AG R AM 1 1 7X .

the front qua ter is c imped with the form

VV h e n
'

r r

sha p er than the cut ing i form it is expected that the cut
r t —n

ter will see that the crimp curve is made to match that of
,

the cutting in pattern by wisting or straightening the t

leather
Diagram 7 X shows all parts of a whole cut lining
.

I I

with edges folded around the gore so clearly that there is

 B oo t a nd S hoe P at te rn
s .
93

scarcelya ny explanation needed G et the outline from

tandard diagram X and only depart from the regula
.

s I I I ,

Il ia /1 3K

D I AG R AM 1 1 8X .

D I AG R AM 1 1 9X .

tion pattern at the tops mark d A A Here it should be

e

thrown out so as to meet the p edges of the outside

.

to .
 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng
, ,
a nd G r d i ng
a

These two li tle swells are essen ial points in making a

t t
smoo h lining The poin at B is slightly cut under so as
t t
to g i ve a surplus of lining up the instep This will prevent
.

the shoe from hitting too hard at that p int in the lining
.

and so preventing h ou sid e from coming d

t e t n ti gh ly ow t to
the la s is often een i congres h es
t, n
I n diagrams 8X and 9 X is sh wn h g l i
as s s s o .

'

I I I 1 o t e c o n re s s n
ing cut in two pieces is me imes d sired This is so
as so t e

simple as to need no explanation

, .

.
96 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , ,
a nd G ra d i ng

quarter The gore is also cemented in between the lining

and outside the fron quarter I t is cemented to h
.

on t t e

back quarters in the same manner leaving the back edges

.

of lining and quarters open Then it goes to the stitch

,

-
e r,

who sti tches it where the laps are Cheap shoes are so m
.

times vamped and the back seam closed clear down

.

through lining and ou side wrong side out which brings

,

t
the seam to the i nside A fterwards they are trimm d nd
- -
,

e a

rubbed the insi de back tay s i tched on covering the seam

.

s t
The quar ers alone with h lining are sometim s
.
, ,

t t e e

clos d being vamped aft ward The cementer or table

e er

hand s icks the web strap in the top of the front at the time
.
,

t
she cements and the operator on the m achine plac s h e t e

rear web
I n fitting a fine congress the quarters will have a folded
.

edge where they lap on h gore and it is a matter of cho ice

.

t e

and custom whether the q uarters are folded before they

,

are

sti ched on the gore They may have an allowance of a

t
seam added t h en placed on the gore wrong side up and a
.

row of titching put on to hold them then rolled over on

,

s ;
the edge and when right side up another row stitched close
to the folded edge This la t method makes a ve y nice s r

it needs b tter operators then when the d g f

.

fi i h b
ns ut e e es o

the quarters are folded first and then stitch d on to a line

,

on the gore
To avoid the fullness so often seen in the front of a
.

congress shoe be particular as to the p sition of the instep o

on the last This does mean necessarily to have dif

,

no t a

position to m sure a last but to see that the

.

f
e re nt ea so

called waist does not extend up far on h last on the

,

t oo t to
instep f the foot A ny h e that is but ned or laced p
e

not to
the fr nt will bring i nto promin nce this faul if it exi ts in
o . s o u

o e t s

the la t The lining wh re pi eced by cu ting it in

s e t t wo
pieces lapping at the bo tom of the gore is often left l ose
.

t
I n many large factories the
o

d not sew d toge h er

, ,

an e t in
E as h linings are by di s and a beam m chi ne This
.

t t e c ut e a

pe mi s m ny th icknesses to be cut at once and all s h

.

t ow t
cloth be la id out h whole width The dies are some
r a e

to t e
what expensi v but l i ke all such improvements are h
.

e t e

m ans of making larg vings d i ly

,

e e sa a

W h en lasting congress sho s there i som ti mes used

.

e s e

a counter cut almo t with square corners on h upper s t e

sides Thi s counter is as h igh as be u ed be ween ca n t

vamp se m d b ttom I n la ing h g re will stre ch if
. s

a an o st t e o t
the upp r be pulled v y hard f ward The laster some
.
,

e er or

time pulls h shank i hard aft the heel has been tacked
.

s t e n er
-

The counter is thus held ag i s h vamp seam at the bac k

.

a n t t e

of h gore W hen h ho com ff the la t wrinkles will

t e t e s e es o s

show ju t forward h d of the counter sh ing h h

.

s t e en ow ow t e

counter presses up and the lea her pulls d wn toward h

,

t o t e
 B o ot a nd S h oe P a t t e ns r .
97

shank Thi s indica es hat the shoe h been lasted t t as t oo

hard down in the shank
.

O bserve congress sh es on the last just after th ey

.

are lasted Notice how the gore is stretched h us llow t a

ing the forward part of the shoe to be drawn out of place by

.
,

too much las ing at h outside shank This is often shown

t- t
h i ch is
e

b v h curve downward in the cen re of the v m p

.

t e t a w

generally cut on a straight line The same often occurs in

,

a bal if the lacing is too loos

.

A nother m thod is the cutting of a circular seam bal

e .

generally fini shed with three or four rows of stitchi ng

.

around the quarter some three fourths inch from the front -

edge and about the same distance from the back eam nd s a

top while h lower s am is put about where the lin of

t e e e

the top of the vamp in a whole cut

,

A Creole congre s is a peculiar shoe and though

.

no t
made in the finest grades is sold in l rge quan i i es I t i s
s ,

, a t t .

IA AM D GR 1 25X .

no t an expensive shoe to cut provided large spready skin s

are used d competent cu ters mp loy d S ince h shoe i
,

n t t e
cut in one piece h aving but h back seam it req i r s n
a e e . s
’

; t e u e co

sid b l experience and judgm n

e ra -
e place the p a ter f e t to t n, or

the upper must be from th t pa t of the skin as

no t c ut a r so to
cri m p on h b ack d hip b nes
t e an o

T h pattern presented h long b en in use in a factory

.

e as e

and cuts cheaply still leaving stock for crimping

I n cutting a new pa tern i should be th oroughly i ed
, .

t t tr
bef re b i g accept d d dopted f every kind of l ather
o e n -
e an a or e

to be crim ped n ed s a di ff re allowan e I is po sibl

,

-
e e nt c t not s e

to say ju here h all wanc mus be wi hou ri l such

.

st w t e o e t t t t a ;
m ters rest a good deal with h c di i ns of the fa t y
at t e on t o c or

and h wo kment
I t is usual in fine t ck on any shoe say kangaroo or
e r .

s o

dongola to crimp it wrong sid out so that h grain will

,

e t e

not be d troy d by h edge f the crimp form S ometimes

, ,

es e t e o .
98 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , ,
a nd G rad i ng

tw o pi c s are crimped
e e time the grain sides being at o ne

plac d agai ns each the

,

e t o r

Diagram 5X shows the cu ting in pattern for the

.

1 2 t
creole congress and diagram 6 X hows the blocker line 1 2

A shows h fold and dotted lin B C D E F show h

, s .

t e es t e

various lin s caused by swi nging di agram 5X on poin

,

e 1 2 ts
I 3 as hown after which the allowances for the king
2 s ta
up in crimping
, , , ,

I n many factories there are to be found qu i te a number

.

of cu ter cu ting lea h r up into vamps using blockers of

t t t
all siz s d not throating th m A t ano her table can be
s e ,

e an e t
seen h so ters who so t up th e e v mp s i to weigh s
.

“
t e r r s a n t
picking out at the same time the qualiti s after which th y
, ,

e e

are hro ted by other cutters Thi n cessitates two hand

,

t a s e

lings and two operations of cutting

.

I n ther facto ies the cu ter cuts them comple e and

.

t t
“

o r

so ts hem at the same time The latt r me hod seems the

,

r t . e t

D mfl l LX ‘

I A AM D GR 1 26X .

better one for i f h one cut ter is exp ected to co mpl e h i s t e -

et

j b a little more care in cutt i ng will be g i ven a fi class

,

o rst -

va mp ill condi ion should gove n

st t
A ga i n if the cutter fini sh s his vamps when he first
, s r .

cu s them h may have two se s of vamp p terns one to

,

t
‘

e t at

interlock the other closed heel working them together

,

as

he finds the stock be t suited

, ,

A good many cu e s have work d in h same f actory

s .

tt r t
for ma y years and are work i ng now just as they worked
e e

n
ye rs ago wh n the cost of hoem king was not so much
a e s a

of an b ject as was h quality turned Now the sav

,

o t e o ut

ing of tri fl s assur s h success H l ng will i take a

.

e e t e ow o t
careless cu ter or of poor judgm nt to waste his daily
.

t o ne e

wages S ome of the very be t and cl sest cu ters are fo d

, ,

? s o t u n
in s me small bscure f c ory in s me out of h y town
o o a t o t e wa

and neither they h people they work for know they

,

no r t e

are superi or workmen

B oys and shoes are so near to men s in princi
.

’ ’ ’
h vo u t s
 CHAP TE R XXIII .

A N U P P E P TT E N GR DI G R A R S .

There are several m achines for gr ding upper patterns a

E ach has some claims to special merit and several em

.

b ody the best known mea s f obtaining widths of sole

,

n
patterns I t is claimed f the improved Cot é and for
o

h R e i d machine also that on the se complete sets of all

. or ,

t e

widths may be graded f rom one size and width f pattern

,

The Cot é mach i n is adapted to grade sets of patterns

o .

by the centimeter and by the E nglish or A merican

e

systems of measurement without any change and without

xtra parts
,

L as s are gr ded to fit the sole patte ns h t is sole

.

t a r ; t a

patterns are g out first and the bottoms f the last fi ted
,

ot o s t
to t h m B the upper patterns m ust be made to fit h
e ut t e

lasts No m ter if h sole patterns are graded wrong th

.

at t e

lasts are made to fit them b i f upper patterns are graded

.
, e

; ut

wrong hey will not fit h lasts To prove that som times

t t e e

the sol e p tt rns are graded wrong let gr de set onl y

.

a e us a a

6 i ch across the full b l l on men s hoes Th lasts

,

’
n
“

1 -
1 a wo s e

are graded to fit them b we u derstand hat t his is

.

ut no w n t
wrong for any hi g ab ove child s sizes I t makes h g de
,

’
t n t e ra

between sizes only 3 6 inch leaving h l rger s i zes too

.

-
1 t e a

slim in proportion to th small r sizes hough b y means

,

e e t
of t h fan on the last lathe a gain of on grade of one
,
“ ”
e

quar er in h between sizes may be m de hough th soles

t c a t e

grade only 6 inch

,

1 —1

There is at his writi g any perf t sys m among

.

not t n ec te
l t manufacturers wh er eby h turning la he in diff erent
as t e t
last factories turns exac ly the same set f lasts from t h t
sam model I f fi di f ferent last manufacturers are given
o e

e ve
the s m e model last to turn sets of sizes fr m there is
.

a o no
assurance that like results will be btained from l l
,

o a

Th u gh the largest of ea h set may be of the ame len g h

.

o c s t
d termi ned by a positive measure cal led h size stick
,
“ !
e t e

h gi hs f the largest las s at given p oints are alm s ure

, ,

t e rt o t o t s

to va y S may h smallest of th set because the larg

r o t e e

est and smallest are the furthest away from the model ize
.
,

in th machine I f the turning la he is set in d ifi

s

e fac t e re nt

ries as to ob tain di ff erent results hat di ff erence ill

.

to so t w

be greatest in th sizes that are furthest from the m d el

,

e o

Th la he is laid in regul r sizes in len g h on the l vers

.

e t o ut a t e

used set h machine but the fan also reg lates the
to t e
“
u

grade d di ff erent operat rs may bring out quite di ff erent

,

an o

res l ts in lasts b adjustment of h fan

,

u y t e .
 B oo t a nd S h oe P a t t e ns r . 1 0 1

A ny one familiar wi h w at is termed the top s it h t h w c

on upper pat tern grading machines k o s that although

- n w
h b die of all h mach ines of any one make are
t e o s tot e s et

turn like sets of patterns different operators m make

out ay

quite di f ferent sets of p tern by h each sets h

,

at s t e w av t e

swit h This explains some extent how the last la t he

c to
gives di fferent results hou gh one unacquainted with h
.

t t e

cons ruction of h lathe wo ld suppose it would give like

,

t t e u

resul s in all facto ies Three se s of lasts in the same shoe

t r t
fac ory produc d in three di fferent last factories and all
.

t e

supposed be turned from h same model may be so

.

'

to t e en

i l y di ffer nt t h at they could b used if mixed together

,

t re e e

and called one lot .

IA AM D GR 1 50 .

When trying wi dt hs of lasts see how they are to

graded do not forget to take of ea h width d place o ne c an

hem on th tab le to m pare the toe spring Th en try the

,

t e co -

largest of each wid h d see hat the hank spring is uni

.

t an t s

form S me sh e manufacturers prefer their wider width

o o

lasts longer on the toe fr m ball forw rd commencing say

.

o a

at D ide 8 size longer and E 4 size and E E 3 8 size

,

w 1 -
1 - -

longer for as the wid h increases h instep fulls up and

, ,

t t
“

se m s to m ove forward appearing make a shorter ball

,

e to
Th en we get h len g h f h vamp the wide wid hs b
, .

t e t o t e on t v
the add ition on toe ;

When grading a set of lasts if the ball of a 4 C woman s -

’

is inches across the sole as some sh e manufac urers

,

2 1 -
2 o t
have it and an ther 4 C is 3 4 inch es across the b ll as
,

, o -
2 -
a ,
I O2 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , ,
a nd G ra d i ng

o her manufacturers have it quite a di fference will appear

t

in the large t sizes of h

,

s t e se t

The ma hine for grading both sole and upper patterns

.

c
which I prefer is the invention of L ouis Cot é of S t
Hyacinthe P O G eo W Parrott s was h e original
, .

t
grading machine I t is nearly forty years since he
, . . . .

brought it out I t was not then however in its present

.

perfected form
,
.
,

I n place of a tracing heel on grading m chines

.

w a

wh i h often be omes worn out on accoun of getting tuck

,

c t
f ast I prefer a diamond with a thin marking edge which
c s

works equally as well on binders board iron and zinc

, ,
’

O the Cote machine one do almost anything

.
, ,
’

n c an

even grade widths T h points all swing on pivot joints e

and can scarcely wear so as to a ff ect the accuracy of grading

,
.

A ny h ei ght of leg may be worked on h ma chine but it is

.

t e

arranged so that it gives best of results on a small boot

,

t he

pattern here h leg is not run a regular grade

w t e

A n ther machine quite well k own as the sale of it has

.

o n

been push d is h Hartford I t is adapted b h sole

,

“
e t e to ot

and upper pattern grading

, .

There has also been i nvented a grading mach i ne

.

with a cut ing or pun h ing a tachment hat cuts h pattern

t t t t
as f ast as it i s graded
c e

I n h d grad ing we h ave h p portio n al system h

.

l an t e ro t e

6 system of rules illustrated some y ears ago in S /

,

1 -
1 z oe

an d L / R d f L ondon E ngland
ea f Mr Then we ecor o

have the R adii system invented by the writer hich

, .

“ ”
w
I will endeavor to prove is h nearest correct f any
, ,

t e o

and th only one hat g ves t h gr des of h upp r as de

e t i t e

man d d by h lasts I sh all show why thi is so but I do

e a e
-
e t e s

often t a h it because i is sl a pro e s

.
,

not e c no w t t oo ow c s

These are tim es of pu h d ush and any hing that will

.

s an r t an

s er d expedi in a shoe facto y is ad pted

,

w an te r o

F orm erly upp er p tte n were someti mes gr ded by

.

a r s a

usi ng th ick p b d ta ki ng up piece en u gh f a

‘
a s t ef o a r s c s o or se t

of hole sizes hen cutti ng d wn thro gh all the grad e

,

w t o u

being btain d b y th di ff erenti l slant of h kni fe

, ,

o e e a t e

T hi ty years ago a l st was laid on i de on pi ce

.

r a t s si a e

of pap er and a p encil drawn ar u nd it t h last in the m ean o e

whil bei g r lled li tle e h way with h pencil Then a

,

n o t ac t

p ttern was gotten out d a hand g r ded Af ter t hey

e a . e .

a an s et t a

had b een tested b y a manuf cturer to see if they came

.

prett y well or sets would be gotten out the grading

a

I O 20

being d one wholly by hand The cutting done by tin

, ,

was

ners strai ght sh ears and a few carp en ers gouges Th en

.

’ ’
t
they were t ued up anywhere from 6 to 3 6 being
.
,

“ ”
r 1 -
1 -
1

taken ff with a carpenter s coarse rasp after whi h they

,

’
o c

were bou d on a small anvil wi th a w oden mallet S ome

,

n o .
 C H A PT E R XX I V .

G RAD I NG BY HA N D .

I f one is to hand grade

will need a pair f propor o ne o

i l dividers
t o na d pay fr m to anfor th m c an o e ;
a pair costing at h headquarters for dr ing to ls
,

t e aw o

are g d en u gh Some insist that th y must b ni ne

,

o o-

i nch long b while hat leng h i convenient equally

o . e e
-
e s ut t t
go d resul s may b obtain d fr m a pair six i n h e in
, s ,

o t - e e o c s

leng h t .

IA AM D GR 151 .

The p oportional di ider is simply a pair of divid rs

r v e

wi h a m v ble fulcrum l aid ff with lines and fi gures by

t o a o

which to set h line on th ful cru m F instance it is

,

t e e or

m arked 4 on a li e N b y shifting h slid ing entre so that

.

n ow t e c

the li ne on whi h th 4 is located is even wi h h line

.

c e t t e on

the leg of h divider h lo g end when open is just 4

t e t e n
times long as h short d Th sho t end equals just
,

as t e en e r

4 sp c s on h long end S if h sh o t d is set on 5

.

a e t e o t e r en

it i just 5 of the l ng end and so on These propor

.

s 1 -
o

l divid s are g enerally laid f m to 9 or I O d

, .

i
t o na er o ut ro 2 an

the principl e is just h same B hen commencing to

,

t e ut w

grade si zes we have n hing to do with h figur s on h

.

ot t e e t e

l g
e F irst set h l ng
. d so t hat one leg rests on h
t e o en t e
 B o ot a nd S h oe P a t t e rns . 1 0 5

point f the at C diagram 5 and the other on point

o to e 1 2

at B Next mark around the standard diagram 5 after

, ,

“ ”

which dra the line A A from point f toe to about the

. 1 2 ,

“ ” “
w o

centre of heel bulge Then find one half as at B and b — o

tain the length of the 4 C complete R everse the dividers

.
, ,

and h short end must be ju t sizes on the size stick O f

.

t e s 2

course it will m the first time trying b keep try

.

no t co -
e ut

ing until the long ends will fit from C to B d the

,

“ ”
an

short ends register sizes on the stick

,

I n laving out the centre poi nt from which to draw radi

2 .

ating lin s use judgment and so place it th at the lines will

e

not cross each other in ruling as in diagram 5 as seen at

.

,
1 1 ,

6‘
I

A A
DI G R M 1 5 2 .

This d iagram is hown for explanation A t A y s ou

wil l see how lin s and in erfere wi h each other y

.

e I 2 t t et

otherwise could get h sa me result in h finished set

,

o ne t e t e

Have the quarter diagram 5 lined ready to grade

.

1 0

U se diagram 5 and p l a needle in what we call th

.

1 0 ace

cen re at A Draw line suffi cient break the circles

e
“ ”
t -
to
all around I f a straight line or a continuous curve is any
. s

where on the pattern only one needed at each end as at

.

i s

the bo tom of the quarter from corner to corner B

, ,
“ ”
t to
C A cross the leg near h top draw the horizontal line
,

“
t
as seen at D A t that point a positive measuremen i
. e
“
t s

wanted as grade and the dividers will not give it so cor

.

rec l as h do h rest of the pattern

,

-
t t
v ev t e

Nex p lace one long leg of the divider in the centre

.

t
at A diagram 5 and on line at E
s
“ ” “ ”
1 0 I

R everse h dividers being careful not to move the

.
, ,

t e

legs d with the short end measure one space f om E to

,

“
an r
“
H d iag am 5 Then measure on line fr m centre to
r 1 0 2 o

interse tion of quarter at K R everse h dividers d

.
,
“ ”
c . t e an
1 0 6 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d i ng

space on line as at L and so on ith 3 4 5 6 7 8 and 2 w

up to line I
, , , , , ,

O lin s 7 and 8 mark out just 4 inch from quarter

.

n e 1 1 1

leg Y now have si z e 8 four sizes from the m del

-

ou

I t ill be easy to unders and hat since you took one

.
, o .

w t t
half the leng h of the standard diagram 5 for the long end
t 1 2

of dividers the short end regis e ing two sizes the size t r on

stick if the divid ers h d been long enough to have meas

,

d the entire leng h of the standard ho t end h d

,

u re d h t an t e s r a

m asured 4 sizes the result would have been the ame S

e s o

a pair of small dividers answer just as well as h larger and

.

t e

more expensive ones .

IA AM D GR 1 53 .

H ving the quarter 4 and 8 sizes change the dividers

a

h fulcrum on 4 The short end of the divi ders will be

, .

S et t e

ju t one fourth of the long end reversing and with t h

.

s -
; e

short end dividing be een the sizes 4 5 6 7 and 8 are

,

t w
ob tained While h dividers are set just as they now are
, , , ,

t e

run in on lin and get sizes 3 and

.
,

I 2

half si z es put leg of h dividers half way b tween

e .

F or t e e

the hole size in any one place and space out and in from
w

hat p int Continue all arou d until reaching lines 8 and

,

t o n 1

7 when 6 f an inch is a whole size on ea h si de as

.

1 1 -
1 o c

that increases or decreases h sizes just 8 in h whi h is

, , ,

t e 1 -
c c

correct as 8 in h on each quarter makes 4 both d

,

1 -
c 1 -
on an

that is the same as h ball of the last changes in sizes Dia

,

t e

gram 53 will show the quarter spaced whol e sizes and

.

lined part of h way around t e .

 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d ngi
I n diagram
at B the grade is really greater than
1 53
at D yet at D the last is at its fullest measurement
”
;
“ ”

point and just about over the centre of the shank where
scarcely any grade is in h sole Therefore nearly all h
,

t e t e

grade which is in the last 4 inch must be furni hed b y the

.
,

1 -
s

two quarters wh ile at B the grade of h sole at the ball “ ”

t e
‘

is inch and that means that the two quarters and the
,

1 -
1 2

vamp at that measurement point only requi e —6 all to

,

r 1

ge her
t
I t is often b erv d where ha d grading is practice d
.

o s e n
that h largest sizes come tightest on the last th gh h
t t
soft stretch y upper lea her used n wadays permits mis
e , ou

t o

takes to be made and not show as formerly When bru h or

,

Curacoa ki d were all we had for w me n s shoes

s
’
o

Do not forget that at lines 8 and 9 there is 6 inch

.

1 1

grade G rade the vamp d as all the vamp a te ns are

1 -
1

an p t r

cut folded so as to have bo h sides alike fold a piece of

.
,

t ,

IA AM D GR 1 55 .

paper l arge enough d hen mark around the half vamp as an t

got from the working standard Call it diagram 54 after
,

which selec the point easiest to work from as centre of rad i

.
,

ating lines Draw lines su fficie t to break all curves Too n

many lines d no injury but only serve to make
. .

o u nne c e s

sary work
,

The lines as drawn in diagram 54 will apply to all

.

I t is best not to round h

or

di
na ry circular curve vamp s t e

corners on v mps or quarters until h set is out as all

.

a t
should have the same amoun of stock cut ff I f h
e ,

t o t e

rounded cor ers were graded the round would be greater

.

n
on the larger sizes while we expect to lap the same on all
sizes and to lose h same amount of stock in folding h
,

t e t e

edges
,

Next set h dividers by diagram 5 so hat h long

.

t e 1 2 t t e

legs re gister one half the standard as from C to B -

,
“ ” “
,
 Bo ot a nd S ho e P a t t t e rns .

whil the short legs regis r sizes on the size stick as

e te t v o

it was worked in grading the quarter Place one l ng leg

,

in A diagram 54 and h other long leg in the inter

. o
“ ”
1 t e

section f the line and the back curve of the vamp at B

, ,

“ ”
o 1

R everse the divi ders and point ff on line I at C Then

.

“ ”
o

take the same m thod wi h each line 3 4 5 6 7 after

.

e t 2

whi h agai res t h divide s on 4 or one quarter length

, , , , , ,

c n e t e r -

on m l l end h long d as this has so far given us 4

,

s a to t e en

sizes from the model Now we have a 4 size and size 8

,

and only want to b divide and get the inte mediate sizes
.
,

su — r

S tti g fourth gives one size on h short end

.

e n o n o ne - t e

S pace on one size at a time out or in larger or smaller as

.

desired Th i s gi ves pacing as may be seen n diagr m

, , ,

s o a

54 after which line all arou d with the model size as a rule
.

1 n
to draw the pe cil against
,

n .

IA AM D GR 1 56 .

The diagram is nly ruled part f the way as it shows o o

the sp cing be ter j udg m ent or common sense must be

,

a t
exercis d in meeting ith other curves on vamps
.

Diagram 55 illustrates this I n such a ca e we can

e .

1 s

use b h l f vamp as the gra d e comes partly where h

.

ut a t
paper would be folded I f
a e

becom es accustomed to
,

o ne

hand grading wi l l not b worried sh uld lines cross

.

o ne e o

ea h other so that imes one cannot cut ff the grade at

c at t o

the lines Then one will only prick th rough and work from
the p ick marks to line again S metimes it is alm st im
.

r o o

pos ible i crooked w rk to prevent the larger pieces in

.

s n o

certain locations fro m coming i side the smaller ones -

n
Practice and f miliarity will set all right
.

Diagr m 56 shows h circular vamp wi h a di fferent

.

a 1 t e t
centre to grade from but it will nly w rk on a half vamp o o

as you see because it also grades on the fold edge

, ,

c an , .
 CH A PT E R XXV .

E TT I N I L I N N
G G U TT O N
T —
IE WO N I G AN D T HE B F L Y, RKI G

F O N N F NT
R M E E, AN D G RAD I G I A S .

N xt we will get a lining from the standard d mark

e an

around as shown i diagram 57 f whi h centre d n 1 a t er c an

d raw r di ting lines as shown always remembe ing h

,

a a r ow to
increase h h eight f th quarters a s h must corre
,

t e o e '
t ev

d also the wi dt h f h leg Though we are aware of

,

sp on ; o t e

h fact that his grading is not as the la ts require it in all

.

t e t s

ways yet h h le set of patte ns is to be us d to cut shoes

t e w o r e

from and they must be g out so that t h d ifi parts

,
-

ot e f
e re nt

f the sho s will come toge her right in the fitting room or
,

o e t ,

D IA AM
GR I S7 .

there will be endless tro ble I n oth r words lasters u e

h ve f y ars pull ed h hoes on the la ts so hat they have

.

a t t
answered but h h ead of the fi t i ng d epartment can t get
or e e s s

t e t no
the sh es toge ther unles the p rns are cut so as come
,

o s at t e to
somewh re nearly right e

There p r b bly is no use to illustra e the grading on

.

o a t

th lining for h pr cess is just the same in all the set and
e t e o

on di fferen par s
, ,

t t
Next we will get h button fly as sh wn in diag m
.

t e o ra

{58 Centre it to one side for if center d in the cen re of

the fly it will make very cl se work b h sides U se 3
.
, e t

o on ot . 1 - 2
1 1 2 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G r ad i ng
than an A as the mould of the last gives it Y ou are grad
ing from a v ry larg e surface d as the grade is by h
, .

e an t e

sy em in p r por i on the su face grad d from in l l d i

,

st o t to r e a re c

tio s m ch greater grade is btained be ween si ze from

n o t
a E E wid h th an from a A A y t the grade be wee h
, at u s

t t n t
sizes of lasts is 4 inch in A A and E E both the same
; e e

1 -

E i t her y u get c nsider bly too muc h grade fr m the

, .

little fr m the A A last H can you r con

o a o

E E or t oo o ow e

cile one to h o her Y et for years this process was

.

t e t ? ac

ce p d corr ct Th ou a ds of sets of pa terns were got

te as e s n t

out th us and the lasters were blamed if h ho s did not

.

t e s e

h tro ble was lai d the fitting room

,

fi tO t to
A fter grading a of patterns as bove by hand h
. r e u .

s et a t e

easi t d best way to get the set in mtal b oa d is

,

es an e or r to

IA AM D GR I 59 .

cut ff a h pi ce to h outside li ne and then mark around

o e c e t e

it h m etal or board with a fine awl Then cut d n

on t e ow

to h next size or h al f ize and mark arou d that d so

.

t e s n an

on d o n the smallest Of course his destr ys y ur

,

to t o o

I f you
w

grad d p per but you have h ready to g

.

e t e se t e t o ut

wan a d upl i cate i i s easy mark ar und your set of metal

a ,
.

t t to o

or board p t t rns a e

The foregoi ng m th d f grading bri ngs very much

.

e
'

o o

the sam result as do h meth d or sys em lat ly ex es t t e

plained d i l lustrated b y M r D y f L don y t here i

e e o

an *
a o on ; et s

some di fference as f insta ce h propor tional system as

.

n t e -

taugh t by thers so far as I am acquainted pays atten

,
or _

no
‘

ti n to h res lts in the top f the leg d not d oing his

, ,
‘
o t e u o an t

ives a result ent r ly wr g as can be seen illustrat d

,

i i e on e n
g
di agram 6
,

1 0 .
 B oo t a nd S h oe P a t t e rns .

Y ou
ill see h at h sm l lest size h h most flare of
w t t e a as t e

leg at h back p Thi s is f course w ong as it ho ld

t e ‘ at to o r s u

be f h ame general ch aracter clear hrough h set Th is

.
,

t t
‘
t e
'
o e s

sh ul d hold go d i ll but infant wh ere the size or

.

’
n a
‘
-
o o s 0 1

sh uld ‘b m h ful l r h top in prop ortion the rest

.

o e uc e ar
t t e to
of h h oe than size 5 h ich i generally sup osed end
t e s w s p to
infants si zes
,

’
th e

H d grading i h best m thod to use hen working

.

a nt s t e e w
on infants shoes th ugh a g od many use the di ff er nt
’
o o e

m hines and seem sa i fi d with results When g ting out

,

ac t s e et
infan s p mould smallest size last and g out stand
.

’
t alt te rns et
'

IA AM D GR I GO .

ard Th en g h largest standard from h l rgest

et o ut t e t e a
la t varying i l g as d eemed best after which g h
.

s n e et t e

pieces of the largest size and smallest size and grade b

, ,

tween with the proportional dividers as this is the only

method f obtaining a proper result A fter a set of infants
,
’
o

has been graded do not allow a file put on them for trueing
.

u p for fear of losing the small curves necessary to bring

out a small shoe
.

Th ere appears no necessity f going in o gra d-ing on

.

o t
the pr p r ion l syst m any fu ther as h r le is car ied
“
o o t a
”
e r t e u r

out i all cases

,

n .
 C H A PT E R X XV I .

O N E I T EE NT N U LE T HE OL D -
S X H I CH R .

Next come to the old — 6 inch rule used by many I t is 1 1

sometim es assisted b y h eye and partly c mbin d at times

.

t
i h h sliding system or rul e of humb and pr ctice
e o e
“ ” “ ”
w t t e t
A ny one u ing this system wi th satisfaction themselves
, , a .

s to !

certainly d o understand h ne d of l ast for it i like

es not t e e s, s

s me others a sy tem of its lf with u regard to require

o s e o t
ments Perhaps you can fully understand wh at h ere is
, ,

t
it ju t as well with out d iagrams
.

to
A fter gett ing your l arge qua ter mark round i and
-
s .

t
wi h a di v id r set on 6 of an in h space p h front of
r , a

t e 1 -
1 c u t e

the qu rter al ng h instep until you reach the curve of

,

a o t e

t h th roat
e Then space 8 inch up h front of the leg 1 -
t e

hen line so make a g d jo i nt of leg and instep lines

.
,

w as to oo
Down h fr nt curve f h quarter i a ma ter (speaking
.

t e o o t e s t
of w m en s pat erns) of judgment f care on urves of try
o
’
t
i ng to reach h b ott m of h quarter wi h a whole increase
, o c ,

t e o t e t
of 6 in h gai
1 -
1 c n
Commence say wi h o n en s patterns as here is so
.

’
t w -
t
mu h more to a wom an s pat ern h an a man s M en s p
r ,
’ ’ ’
c t t at

terns are composed of so few pieces and the stock cut by

.

them is of such a character that less d fi i in detail i s

,

e n t e ne s s
needed S tha here is 6 on b ottom Wh ile lay ing ee t t 1 -1

out the fro t curve f h qua t r add on h point 3 of a

. .

n o t
!
e r e t e 2 -

size from the ize stick to increase h l eng h hird s t e t o ne - t

being put on the back of vamp in h p ar icular p lace and

, ,

t at t
on h b o om d f curve dd —3 size Then in sli di ng
,

t e tt en o a 1

h curve g radually rea h fr m one p oint the other

.

t e to
I n gr ding sizes here s ms to be a great di ff eren e of
c o .

a t ee c

ideas as how mu h a h size gains or l oses in h i ght

to c e c e

O f c urse h body of h patterns is r gulat d in grade by

.

o t e
‘ t e e e

the l ts but h h igh t f h l g in grade is decided by

as t e e o t e e

the indi vi d ual h has h t part f the business se tl

,

w o t a o to t e

S om manufacturers have h grade very sm ll d say

.

e t e a an

hat a buy r always d ecides on hi pur hase from h sam

,
'

t c t e

ple sh wn hi h i s in wom n generally a 3 or 4 and

e s
’
w I 2

th t they do not say any hing if the larger s i zes d

o ,
c ,
a s, ~
,

a t o no t
grad e mu h in h eight O f course if one can ke p do n t h
c e w e

grade on top of the leg it will result in a large saving in p

.

per stock O thers say they want 7 or 8 to resemble the 4 in

all ways I n hand grading by any method this can be regu
.

lated ccording to desire als in u ing s m e m hin s

.

a ac e
“

; so o s o

Wh ere a sh oe factory has i own equ ipm ent of pattern mak

.

ts
 CH APT E R X XV II .

E T O C O E CT ON E M H D RR .

There is one m th d of pattern grad ing wh ich so far e o

as g ading is c cern d i b olu el y orr ct and o ly

,

r on -
e s a s t c e n o ne

B y his syst m one can grad ten siz provid d the lasts
, , .

t e e
-
es , e

are graded prop rly th t many sizes and l l will fit qually

e a a e

well N onl y tha but any last h largest or s mall st

ot t t e e

even f a f ten sizes may be moulded d a s andard

.
,

o s et o ( an t
got fr m i d t h n h entire g d d p d wn from
,

o t, an e t e s et ra e u or o

th t stand rd wi th h ce tain y hat ll ill fit al ike

a a t e r t t a w

Wh n h ystem h ere ref erred d eloped the

.

e t e s t o w as ev

gra d ing ma hi ne was l m st unkn wn I n a s ri s of ex

c a o o e e

pe m nts and es s I d m nstrat d h m th od f m ulding

.

ri e t t e o e t e e o o

I I A
DI G R M A 6 .

a la t which is set forth in the first chapter of his w rk I

s t o

proved th wh en a reas able am un f care is u d h t

.

at on o t o se t a
meth d f m ulding pr d s a corr ct r sult
o o o o uc e e e

Havi ng a correct method of moulding the la t I n xt

.

s e

turned my a te ti n to the gr ade of upper pa t rns

t n o t e a s re

quired by h lasts I went a l ast factory and sel ct d a

t e to e e

go d m d el 4 C F rom that I had a set of lasts mad on a

.

o o — -
e

str i ght grade of 4 inch from miss to a woman s 7

.

’
a 1 -
I I es

O f c urse thi s was not correct make sho s from but I

.

o to e

not making h es I was maki ng ex p erim ts I

,

w as s o en w as
careful in th ese early experiments th t h lasts graded
.
,

a t e

ri ght
A ft r his I laid all aside but the size I I d h W
.

e t an t e

man s ize 7 I h d nine grad s b tween ten l s s I f

0
’
s . a e e or a t .
 B oo t a nd S hoe P a t t e rn s . 1 1 7

I could find the am unt required for ppers of these nine o u

grades I could asily find one nin h one grade S I e

-
t or o

tried to get a chart of the grade The size stick h el p ed me

.

for it gave a positive grade as to length I wanted s me

.

thing just as positive i all directions I had n body s ex

.

’
n o

in this line assist me as all grading systems

.

p i
erm e nt s to
previously used w re exclusive of the demands of the lasts e ,

and mainly by rule of humb “

t
”

I moulded h and 7 carefully ge ting out standards

.

t e 1 1 t

from each caring only to have h legs pitch h s me I t e t e a

got the ankles from the ball m asure and left h top of the
.
,

e t e

leg entirely of the question for that was be a ma ter

,

o ut to t

of taste
,

I marked around the 7 s and ard as shown in diagram

.

1 6 and drew line A A from the point of h toe

1
“ ” “ ”
t e to

about the cen re f h heel Then I drew l ine B from the

,
“ ”
t
-
t o e .

A
D I G R M I6 2 A .

corner t ward h cen re f h throat b only beyond t t t ut

where it int rsects line A A

“

o e o e ,

“ ” “ ”
e

Next I placed h size stand rd inside of the 7 as

.

t e 1 1 a

at diagram 6 and divid d h leg equally in front d

,

1 1 e t e an

back I then marked a ou d stand ard Next I placed

,

r n I I

a pin in centre D and struck radii 3 4 5 and so

. .

out

on p 4 I n drawing hese I onl y looked breaking

1 ,
2 , , , ,

u to 1 t to
of curves all ar und The I m arked acro s h legs near
.

o n s t e

the top cal l ing it B and found that I had 9 6 between

.

-
1

ea h fr nts and backs O f course you understand that

, ,

c o

great care aken hat h upper sta dards and 7 ere

.
,

w as t t t e n 1 1 w

just right in all wance for lasting o

Next I took h measure betw en the 7 and on line

.

t e e 1 1

and transferred it c tre as seen at H Dhen I took

,
“ ” ’

en
“

1 to

the di f ference at K line d transferred i t to centre

.
, ,

“ ”
2 an

as hown and so each one succe sively until I had h

, , ,

s ; o n, s t e
 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng G i
'

1 1 8 , , a nd ra d ng

wh le 4 m asures in h centre of the chart and hese

o 1 e t e t
lines I termed R d ii
,

“
a -

th at I had nine grades in a small cha t I could

.

N ow r

set my propor io al divid rs on 9 or one —ninth tha t is

,

t n e — r

have h h rt l gs ninth h len gth of h long legs

,
.

t e s o e o ne - t e t e

w hen any measur m nt of h long legs ould resul in one e e t e w t

nin h on h short or nine grades on the l ng d would

t t en

be one grade on h short end I f I had one grade

e , o

t e co r

l y it was just wh at I wanted

.

re c t

Then I g a 4 C standard marked around it as een

.

ot -
s

in diagram 6 cut mv little radii and pu ting it h t

, ,

1 2 t so t a
lines I i ntersected placed a p i in h centre
, ,

d 1 0 an 1 1 n t e

holding it in position wi h a tack at the top Th en I drew

, , ,

t
lines 3 and 4 and so on up to 4 acc rding as th ey were
.

2 1 o

on the radii I also numb ere d them the same

, , ,

Wi h my dividers on one ni n h I k the m ure of

. .

t -
t , t oo eas

A
DI G R M 1 6 4 A .

line on the radii on h long leg Then I had h one

I t e t e
grade on the h rt end S I merely run out on line up
.

to ize 7 taki ng m asure f line on the rad ii d out

s o . o

s e o 2 an run

from size 4 up to 7 Then I took me sure on line 3 and

,

proc eded as before A d so on ar und the w rk

.

e n o o

I t ok my 4 standa d and ruled up si ze 7 just h

. .

o r to as t e

lasts called for it spacing at or near the top of the leg 6

,

1 -
1

ea h ize both back and front Then I h d the 4 d 7 out

,

c s a an

sides except h tops

.

t e

I laid my vamp cu v b y first drawing di gram

.

o ut on a

A A from point f
r e

6 3 the str igh t lin full of “ ” “ ”

t o e to
bulge of heel on my si ze 4 s andard by taking 4 5 8 i nch s
1 a e o

t -
e

fr m h b ck f the h el forward to h line B for that

,

o t e a o e t e

brought h end of h vamp l ine to the centr f the sh ank

,

t e t e e o .
1 20 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d i ng

like almost any other m chanical process may require c e on

b l practice b ecome expert

,

id to
I t is the same process on a low cut for a l cut i s
s e ra e .

ow

noth ing but a high boot i h the leg cut ff W are l

,

w t o e a

ways insured as h fitting qualiti s on h last and any

.

to t e e t e

one can see ha laps are g raded b only body of h

,

t t no ut t e

pattern
,

A fter getting the large si ze 7 quarter from h size 7

.

t e

s andard and h size 4 large qua ter from the size 4 stand
t t e r

ard mark around h large one then place h 4 inside as

,

t e t e

illustrated b y diagram 6 5 divid ing the di ffe ence all

, , ,

1 r
around about equ lly so as to m ake it more conveni e t to
,

a n
grade I will b n ticed hat whole siz s only are shown in
,

. t e o t e

IA AM D GR 165 .

diagram 6 5 but this was d ne ha the engraver of h

1 o so t t t e

diagram s would not be oblig d to do such fine work as hal f

,
‘

sizes would represent

Th cro s lines the various po itions from the la ge
.

e s at s r

to h small quar er are frequen e ou gh only to break h

t t t n t

curv s N otice tha n have a s i ze 4 d 7 O f cour e

e e

e t -
w e ow an s

that is four sizes or three grades S the p roportional di

. .
,

et

on h hird m rk on divi de s and hen wi h

.
,

id t t one
’

v e rs t e o ne -t a r

long leg on h 7 and h other on the 4 get h d ivi i ns

,

t e
-
t t e s o

on each line A fter grading from 7 to 4

e

on the insi de
,

ru n

of size 4 ntil the necessary smaller sizes are b in d

.
,

u o ta e s ay

a 3 and
,

2 .
 B oo t a nd S h oe Pat t e rn s .

Th ere are lines at h toe of the quarters s en t e as e on

diagram 6 5 su fficient to show the idea and a continua ion

,

1 t

of spaci ng and lining is all hat i required to m ke a full

, ,

t s a

set f quarters
o

D iagram 66 shows h largest and size 4 vamps l aid

.

1 t e
out for grading a the sam principle as th quarte s
se t on e r

I t is well to use h largest standard in ruling the li n s as

e .

t e e

th r would run sho t on all c rners R uling across

,

th e o e r o

often enough bre k the curves answers every pu pos

.

to r e

I n getting h re t f the set of patterns get out th 4 and

a .

t e s o e

D I AG R A M I66 .

7 fly and grade b tween Then h n g tting out the top

e w e e

facing if preferred keep the whole set one wid h

.

I n fact with this me hod the diss ction of any and all
.
, ,

t e

parts i mad wi th the positive as uranc hat the hole set

,

s -
e s e t w

will come together as if they had grown th ere som e hing t

no one can do with ma hine grading Y et machi ne grading
,

may be preferred b ecau so rapid in comparis n wi h this

.

se o t
slow me hod t
A good many people are using h various machines
.

t e

for grading who do thoroughly unders and th m and no t t e

oftentimes fail to b ain good r sults as hey might

,

o t as e t .
 CH A PT E R X XV III .

G RAD I N O E GN T EE VV I D T H S S M U SE O LY HR \V I D T H S OF

P TT E N EEL E U E
.

A R S . H M AS R .

A t the time I invented the R ad sys em many s ts f ii t e o

women s and misse lasts were turned wi h h 3 6 grade

,
’ ’
s t t e -
1

in girth and at hat ime one last maker in L ynn t ld me t t o

that he graded children s soles —6 acro s the balls and

,
’
1 1 s

4 and women s of one i n h S hen I

,
’
mi
’
-
ss es 1 -
1 1 -
1 2 c o w
asked h im h h grad d the lasts he said he did know
, .

ow e e not
but it was just as h turning lathe left h m except the fi
,

t e t e n
i h i g whi h meant shavi ng and polish ing
,

M en s last h ve for a long time been grad d ve y sim

s , c .

’
-
s a c
-
r

il arto the present grad and there has been very much -
e, no t
change in th finest grades but the las manufactur rs h e t e w o

once made a specialty of peg l ts are nearly all mak

,

as now
ing fif in the finer grades
o rt s

G rading wid hs is not generally well understo d Th re

e .

t o e

must b some definite p int se tl d before m asurem ents

.

e o t e e

can be accepted I f around h ball m ans strai gh t “

t
”

around then let it be so understood I f it means at an an gle

. e e

from the inside ball to h outside ball then let h re be a

.
,

t t
positi ve angle I f we have a b ll measure for the foot h n
e , e

a t e
let us h ave a measuring p sition so far forward fr m h full
.
,

o o t e

of the heel d at a certai n diagonal across the fo t or la t

an o s

When a positive p it ion is d finitely se tled upon l i be

.
,

os e t et t
applied to both the foot and last alike so hat one person t
can measure the fo t and an her the last and wi h a cer
,

ot t
tainty hat they b th agree i n eve y pa ticular
o , ,

t o r r

No one should grade pa terns in wid hs unless he h

.

t t
by ome m eans satisfied himself that there is a certa i n def
,
as

i i
n te grade of h lasts be orked u p on and what that t to w

grade is I n doing this i is necessary to know also if each

e ,

t
width has a sole f its own or W he her one sole an wers
.

o t s

more han one wid h and if it does h t wid hs it is

,

for t t w a t
used on Not infrequen ly h same insole is used in mak
, ,

t t e

ing or more sets f las s in width and on children s

.

’
two o t

shoes one last is often used for widths the nly di ff er

,

tw o o

ence made in h upper pa tern being in h width of ankle

,

t e t t e

S ome manufacturers only h ree widths of pa terns

.

u se t t
to get six wid hs of shoes and get wh at they seem to be sat t
i fi d with b y cut ing up and down and crossing a vamp
,

s e t
on to a qua ter and fussing and fi ting
,

r t
There is nothing less expensive to a shoe manufacturer
.

than c mplete sets of lasts and c m plete se s f p t erns

o o t o a t ,
1 2 4 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d i ng

Pattern making has within a few years become a pro

which r quires a thoroughly practical kn wl dge of
, ,

f i
e s s on e

the fitting room U nless h pa tern maker s w rk is in

o e
’
t e t o

harmony with h requi remen s of that room in putting

.

t t
uppers toge her his p t rns will b a failure A pattern
e

t at e
'
e

maker hould visit the fi ting room ften and notice if but
, .

s t o

tons are in c rrect po ition on h b ton boo s

o s s t e ut t
Th heel measure of a woman s pattern is reckoned
.

’
e

from the sharp est curve of the quarter at h thro t to the t e a

bottom of the last at the heel Wh ere the upper and counter
turns under the last on a 4 C but on bo t this m easurement
.

-
t o

sh ould be I I inch s and then run less on each

1 -
2 e nar
r wer wid h 5 6 inch and on wider wid hs the i ncrease
,

o t —1 t
sh ould be 5 6 while on E wid h the increase should be a
-
1 , t

D IA AM
GR 20 0 .

little more than the 5 6 and on E E the increase would be -

1

well to be 3 8 although in regular width grading generally

,

holds to 5 6 increase for each width

,

I n grading widths on h p of the leg AA or AAA

-
1 .

t e to
width is generally worn by a slim woman h h scarcely
,

w o as

any s ell at the c l f and the top should not be increased in

w a

proportion wh erea a wom an wearing an E or EE is al mo t

,

s s

always fles h y and h a large calf hence top of the leg

,

as

h ould b larger h n a regular grade O f course t his is

,

s e t a

not alw ys d ne in grading b any one can unders and

.

rut t

that it is likely to b prop er A gain the bu ton or lace for

a o ,

I e t

a fa stening comes to our relief for buttons can be moved

.

and lacing can be left open

,

The grading of wid hs in women s shoes is a matter of

.

’
t
 B oo t a nd S h oe P a t t e ns r . 1 2
5

clos p enciling and cu ting and is mu h the hardest to get t c

out A sligh t variation in m en s patterns from h ex ct

e ,

’
t e a

n ss necessary in women s is not o iced Th lines are not

.

’
e n t e

so particular nor h curves of the outline sharp and de

.

t e so

fined Th n there are so few pie es in men s to c me to

e c
’
o

g her h in women s we have m ny sm ll sharp

.

’
et w - e re as a a

curves Th est ck used on h finer grades of women s de

, ,
’
o t e

mands more care

.

Take a tandard of a 4 —C diagram and line around

.

20 0

it G rad out to EE and i nto AA making three grades

s , ,

-
e

larger and three gr des smaller than the model This is

.
,

a .

IA AM D GR 20 I

sh wn f all t h width s of lasts of the same len g h b if

o or e t ut

there is increase in the wider widths in the length

,

of toe from ball forward simply d d the extra on

of the wide sizes A t H space 6 i oh

a

the
,

t oe I -
I n -

for each wid h and at K space 8 inch f e ch

.

t 1

width I n lining h bottom fr m L

-
or a

0 have t e
‘
o to
tandard 4 C or w hatever standard y w rk
.

th e s -
ou us e to o

fr m on spaces at H H Have h fullest part of th bulge

,

o t e e

at h l t P ven so h at y i ll get h prop er curve at

.

ee a e t ou w t
bottom f h h el as een at R I f his i s n d ne h
, e

o t e e s . t ot o t e
1 2 6 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i ng , , an d G ra d i ng

wider w i dths will be cut under h is point and h n ar at t t e

rower wid hs will be l eft full at ex reme bo m The

,

t t oo t t to
lining of the grading of widths is so very simp le and p
.

parent h i is neces ary to dwell on i I t is b to

a

t at
- t no t s t est

line up h front from the toe to curve of throat shifting t h

.

t e e

standard as neces ary ntil the th oat is rea h d Then the

,

s u r c e

lines will run as sho n at 9 8 Th e lin down h fron

.
,

o ut w n e t e t
of the l g spaced at K K 8 i ch ach wid h being
.

e 1 -
n to e t
careful to guide by the spacing at K K d moving h
, ,

an t e

standard up until the throat curve strikes on the instep line

and th m ke a continuous line
e two a .

IA AM D GR 20 2 .

A t the p f h leg draw a horizontal line W resting

to o t e

on the two hi gh est p int as at TT and draw it away b

,

- e
o s

y nd h leg at each side Th n sp ce up and down for

,

o t e e a

ea h width as much as you please

.

A space of 6 inch is generally preferr d I f h e

.

1 -
1 e t
shoes mu t h cut cheaply as possible it i w ll ometimes
.

s e s e s

to keep all the larger width h m e h ight and grade

,

-
s t e sa e

n ne gr ding do n h narro er width s S uch matters

o a w t e w

are b g verned entirely by conditi ons

.
,

to ' e o

B y th se general rules widths will all h ave a f mily

.

'

e a re

d provided your m n s h oys w m s d ’ ’ ’

sembl i
a nc e , a n , e , ,
o en an
1 2 8 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , ,
a nd G rad i ng

I n h wid h grading sys em here de cr i bed I have been

t e t t
entirely guid d b the lasts but have lik i se made free
s

e y ew

i m ak i ng
us e

of comm n sen e n cessity to uccessful

,

o s — a e s at t e
'
n
I n lining down the fro t curv of qua ters i t is
p .

n e t he r

nece sary to k e the standard qua ter by whi h you w k

,

e p r

in alignment for if i t tw sted y ur cu v s will

s c or

is i not h ar
I n dia ram is hown the vamp graded from a
, o r e

m o ni z e g 20 3 s
C and AA s owing as in the previou wid hs
.

4 to 4E E, 4 h t
o ly the extrem and the standard C A t H H H
s

n - the
e 4
grade 6 n h and at K i t only in h I t is nly
.

is 1 -
1 i c is 1 -
32 c o

graded in one half vamp as to cut on fold line Th is

.

- so
, .

Di a i ottl .

D IA AM
GR 20 4 .

gra d ing is illu r t d plainly in d i agr m 3 as p

st a e so a 20 to re

l d th nec s ity f fur her expla natio n

c u e e es o t
Next ref r to di ag am 4 for explana i on of grade in
.

20 t
h w i dth of li n i ng pa ern A t H H H the g rad i s 6
e r

t e tt e 1 1

inch and h gr de t K i 8 i nch wh i le at O th p p

- -
.

t e a a s 1 -
e er en

line r t ins the s me leng h f lining Wh er it m e ts

,

di lc u ar e a a t o e

h quart r for l i ni ng and q art

e

t e e must c mp are Th u er
-
o e

front f h li ni g is graded ma h the grade of h v mp

.
,

o t e n to tc t e a

Noti ce th t the back of h h el near h bot om h

.

at t t t t
“

a e e e e

gr de is h ame h qua ter

a t e s as t e r s .
 C H A PT E R XX I X .

N U TT O N G RA D I G B FLY .

Probably h m st d ifli l part of wi d h gradi g h

t e o cu t t n as

been h but on fly To illustrate this properly will requi re

t e t
a few extra diagram but as h result i sa isfa ory it is
.

t t ct

well to go to h b ott m of the m atter I n h first place

s, e s so

t e o t e

we wi ll grade and cut e ch quarter in h vari ous wid hs

.

a t e t
de ired to get the fronts of the fl y by marking ar und h
s s, o t e

quarters at top front and a short way along h b ttom ends

,

, t e o

D ii J

IA AM D GR IA AM 20 5 .
D GR 20 5 .

of the f r n or instep line leaving plenty of paper b ack of

o t
front l ines Cut ach butt fly as far as lined ; see
,

th e ou t e
‘
on

diagr ms 5 AA A B C D E E H
-
.

a 20

Next cut these flies out the lines leaving plenty of

, , , , , , .

on

st k back so hat th y res mble diagrams 5 b eing cut

, ,

‘
oc t e e 20

on the lines Next get y a duplicat f a 4 C fly as

, ,

sa e o

sh own in diagr m 5 d hen cut th back of i to suit

.
, ,

a 20 an t e t
the requi r em nts as to weep width etc
,

‘
e s

Nex p lace th fly so cut in front as seen in diag r m

, ,
.

t e a
1 30 D e s i g ni ng C u t t i n
,
g
O ) a nd G ra i
d ng

D ial

Daa OJ

D IA AM
GR 20 5 . D IA AM
GR 20 5 .

D 20 5
Di d i OJ .

D IA AM
GR 20 5 . D IA AM
GR 20 5 .
1 32 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , a nd G ra d i ng

D 0

D IA AM
GR 20 7 . DIA AM
GR 20 8

D I A AM
GR 20 8
. D IA AM
GR 2 0 8.
 B oo t a nd r
S h oe P a t t e ns . 1
33

DI Q QO X

D IA AM
GR 20 8 . D IA AM
GR 20 8 .

D IA A M
GR
'

20 8 .
D IA AM
GR 20 8
.
1 34 D e s i gni ng C u t t i ng , , an d G ra d i ng

board and h en lay the 4 C 5 wi h holes p icked at H H

-
t 20 t
and K K a n d having h front top and b t om directly
, , , r ,

t e o t un

der h 5 mark through the prick hol s Now y ur 4 C

,

t e 20 e o

original i all ready to get the corresponding cu ve f back

, .

s r o

on ea h i dt h c w

Next take E E 5 and push the pin through the

.

20

or i gi nal 4 C and d wn through the corre p nding h les

, , s

o s o o

H H in the EB after hich mark ar und the b ack of the w o

original 4 C on the E B a little more han half way down

,

t
the whole len gth Next r peat h operation wit h the pins t
in h oles K K A fterwards use the 4 C to finish h p of
. e e -

t e to
back Repeat h peration with each wid h and then cut
.

t e o t
the back of each
.
,

Di d i

IA AM D GR 20 8 .

S h b st r esul s f width grading of flies as shown

t t
in diagram 8 AA to EE
ee e e o

20

Th ere are h se who after much experience grade

.

t o

widths by a li tle slipping and h of the eye

t t
I t seem s hardly necessary to sh w the grading in
e u se .

width s of p f acings as hey are generally k p al l the

to t e t
s me in width and merely grade in their length The sa me
,

may be said as h fly linings as they are generally g

.

to t e ot

from the flies I f a sm ll lining is wanted or if using a a

large and small lining pattern which s ems advisable if

.
,

the conditions of the factory will pe m it it is best to cut

,

r ,
 AP P E N D I X .

C O NV E N E NT C
I RA K F OR P A TT E R N S .

The diagram here shown is an arrangement of pigeon

holes f patterns E ach set is supposed to have a dis
or

tinct number and any set no matter how many there may
.
,

be may be placed in a moment by an entire stranger to

,

the system as well as by one accustomed to it The

,

extreme simplicity f the arrangement is apparent

.
,

o .

ach pigeon hol i s numerically numbered at the

E e

top wh i le at the end the letters A B C D and so on rep

resent all that line I n a small memorandum book
, , ,

on

hanging i n im m ediate proximity is recorded the number

.

o f each set commencing with the lowest S uppose we

W look i n book at
.

want to find set No and see

,

2 1 e 2 1

it is in 5 C Now we look at p i geon hole on lin of

. . ,

“
”
- e

figur 5 and then cross over at C and we have it

.

“
”
e

No 8 set is wanted We find in the i ndexed book that

.
, ,

1 1

i t is at B We look on line of holes and where

. .

1 7 1 2

i t i nt rs cts B find h
-
, . ,

e e we t e set .
 I nd e x . Cont i nu ed .

P
t Cl t
AG E“

Q a r e rs o h S t rap S a nd a l s

t Fx
u ,

Qua r e rs i e d
rt r t
,

k T ip s
Qua e s F o n a nd b a c
t
r ,
t
T
T h e C o é gra d ing m a c h i ne
Qua r e rs g a d e d d o w n t o
t l
r 4 AA
t
f
o ng u e s o u h e rn t ie , A w h
Qua r e rs W h o e ,

f
T op a c i ng

ll tt t it W it di
y
Ro ed t op Bu on b oo h Top a c i ngs , d h gra ir
r
, w

t tt r
R o u nd i ng o ff c o rne s s ar

T op i ch on n g ra
l
sw pa e

S a nd a How to fit T he
l tr
s,

S a nd a S
l t t li
s, ap

V
ly V
S a nd a Tw o a mp i ng h ro ugh ni ngs

ll
, s ra p

S ca ing d o ne p o o r a mp i ng a nd no h a nd s he a

ll l l
op

V
v C
S e a m a o w a nc e f o r i nings a mp c i rc u a r

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 ES T AB L S H E D I 1 87 8 .

M A N UFA CTU E R RS OF M A NUFA CTU E R RS OF

Sol id Wood Lasts ,

i i
M l l er s Tw n Tree ng M ach ne
’

i i .

Pat ent i
Jo nt ed L asts ,
f or

ol id and i
Sp l t Foll ow ers ,
M ens
'

and Womens
’

Sh0 es ,

Holl ow Fil lers ,

i
Sp l t Tree Feet ,

l nnersol e Patterns ,
and ot her

The M ller i Treers Sp ec al t

’

i i es .

ns Tw n Tree
’

i i ng M achines ,
Barry Hinged Sp l t Fol l ow ers i ,

i
Tw n Treeing M achines ,
i
Baker Sol d Sp l t Foll ow ers i ,

ORTHAMPTON ENG , . BROCKTON, MASS U S A . .

ekt on and Art hur St reet s ,

B O S TO N O F F I C E ,

J . HOO L E Y, ma na g e r . 82 L i nc o l n S t re e t .

Agenci es in France Germany and Austral i a , .