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Recycling  Homeowners composting guide
What is not allowed in the bin?

How can I use compost?

Compost can be used to enrich the flower and Director
vegetable garden, to improve the soil around Regina Montgomery
trees and shrubs, as a soil amendment for house
rmontgomery@volusia.org
plants and planter boxes and, when screened, as
part of a seed-starting mix or lawn top-dressing.
Before they decompose, chipped woody wastes West Volusia
make excellent mulch or path material. After 3869437889
they decompose, these same woody wastes will add texture to garden soils.
Daytona Beach
Just as fresh organic matter can be used as a mulch, so can compost at any
3862576021
stage of maturity. Spread around shrubs, trees and in the garden, compost
can be used as a concentrated mulch. Most people, however, believe that New Smyrna Beach
once the time and effort has been invested to make a true compost, it is best
3864233862
to use it in ways other than as a mulch.
Osteen
Like some wines and cheeses, compost improves with age. For a person
unfamiliar with the composting process, it is often difficult to tell when 3865740598
compost is "cured" or ready to use. Fresh compost reacts with soils
Recycling Education
differently than well-aged compost and should be used with discretion.
Uncured compost mixed directly into gardens or planter mixes can "burn" 3869434905
plants through a stress condition called "phytotoxicity." Fresh compost, like
fresh manure, can also rob the soil of nitrogen temporarily while it finishes its
curing process.

If the compost looks dark, crumbles in the hand, can be screened through a
1/2" screen, and has a pleasant odor, it is probably "cured." Age is not a good
indication of stability since the rate of decomposition is determined by
nutrient balance, mixing, moisture and aeration. Some composts from active
processes are more stable at one month than many stockpiles years old.
Aging a compost an additional six months even after it seems cured is a good
insurance policy.

Stable compost can be blended into soil mixes and is suitable for most
outdoor planting projects. It is typically mixed with other ingredients such as
peat moss, shredded bark, sand, or loamy topsoil when used as an outdoor
planter mix. Mixing ratios vary, but 10 percent compost is considered to be a
minimum, 30 percent optimum and 50 percent maximum in planting shrubs
and trees.

Stable and cured compost probably has its greatest value when roto-tilled
directly into the soil. One cubic yard of compost covers 108 square feet at
three inches, 216 square feet at two inches, and 324 square feet at one inch.
The rule of thumb is to spread compost no more than one third the depth of
the roto-tiller. A one inch layer of compost should be tilled in three inches, a
two inch layer tilled in 6 inches, and a 3 inch layer tilled in nine inches. Two or
more passes with the tiller helps blend the compost with the topsoil and
break up any clumps of material.

Residents can support composting by becoming compost users, promoting

resource recovery by stimulating the market for compost. Using compost
rather than chemical fertilizers reduces nitrogen runoff, protecting our lakes
and springs. Organic matter conserves water by loosening clay soils and
binding sandy soils. Compost stimulates plant growth through time release
nutrients while protecting the landscape against weather extremes, especially
drought, by keeping soils warmer in winter and cooler in summer. The healthy
soil ecosystem fosters rapid decay of grass clippings, eventually enhancing
the soil food chain that supports the wild bird population.

As we seek to find a home for yard waste, perhaps we need look no further
than our own back yard. Mulching, composting and soil improvement work
together to help solve the environmental problem of overfilling landfills while
simultaneously bringing life to the landscape.

Yard wastes that can be composted include:

Grass clippings
Leaves and small twigs
Flowers
Non-spreading weeds
Old plants/potting soil
Wood chips
Vegetable and fruit scraps
Coffee grounds (including the filter)
Tea leaves and tea bags
Eggshells

Some organic wastes that should not be composted include:

Meat, fish and dairy products

Diseased or insect infested plants
Weeds gone to seed
Weeds that spread by runners (morning glory, quack grass, buttercup, etc.)
Dog and cat waste
Large branches
Pressure treated, painted or preserved lumber
 

What to do with home yard waste

1. Don't bag grass clippings

The easiest way to start mulching is to take the

grass catcher off the lawn mower. Your mower
service agent should be able to put a trap door over
the discharge vent if your mower does not already
have one. For conventional side discharge mowers without a trap door,
mulching may require a bit of raking following mowing to break up the little
rows of clippings. To avoid raking the entire lawn, mow from the outer edge in
ever smaller circles toward the center, making sure that the side discharge
mower is "walking" or blowing the grass clippings ever closer to the central
point. In this manner, clippings are chopped several times and most fall
between the blades as mulch. The few that are left near the center can easily
be raked and placed into the compost bin or spread in the garden.

Mulching mowers have become quite popular in recent years and their new
features are proudly displayed by dealers. Advertising campaigns are helping
convert homeowners over to these new "zero discharge" mowers. Mulching
mowers are designed differently from conventional mowers with closed trap
doors. The first difference is, of course, the lack of a discharge point and a
catcher. The second is the horsepower rating, since mulching mowers require
more horsepower to cut and re-cut the grass. The special blade not only cuts,
it also acts as a vacuum and fan that circulates the clippings back to the
blade for additional pulverizing. The air pressure then forces the chopped
clippings downward into the lawn.

Mulching mowers require a lawn that is not overly wet and has not been left
too long between cuttings. The height of the grass should be somewhat
higher than the height of the blade. For the average lawn, if the grass is left at
2-inches following mowing, the grass would be cut when it reaches three
inches. While the new system takes some getting used to, user satisfaction is
running near 100 percent for those who have made the switch. The lawn must
be mowed more often than with conventional mowers, but the time actually
spent in the yard is less because there is no need to continually stop and
empty the catcher. Mulching mowers should be used every five to six days
instead of every week.

Cutting grass higher and with only one third the blade height is easier and
faster than cutting grass that has become overgrown. Fertilizing can be
decreased since grass clippings contain 4% nitrogen and act like a time
release fertilizer when they are returned regularly to the soil. Grass clippings
return to the soil to form organic humus that helps hold water while keeping
the soil loose and aerated.

When asked in a recent survey in Texas, many householders stated that the
main reason they bag their grass is to avoid generating thatch. While thatch is
a problem in many lawns, turf grass specialists have numerous studies that
show that grass clippings do not cause thatch to build up. Thatch is caused
by high-lignin stubble at the plant base derived from roots, rhizomes, crowns
and stolons that decompose slowly. The green clippings contain little if any,
lignin and decompose quickly. If anything, mulching green grass clippings can
actually help decompose thatch by supporting a healthy soil ecosystem. With
grass mulching, some lawns may need additional aeration and watering to
help soil organisms decompose the clippings properly, especially during dry
periods.

2. Mulching
What is mulch? Mulch is any organic material such as
wood chips, grass clippings, leaves, or compost that is
spread over the surface of the soil. Using mulch is a
simple way to recycle yard waste and improve your
garden.

What does mulch do? Mulch conserves water, keeps down weeds and keeps
soil temperatures from becoming too hot or too cold. Mulch also protects
sloping ground from soil erosion and stops compaction caused by driving rain
or foot traffic. In addition, mulch provides ideal conditions for earthworms and
other soil organisms which are necessary for healthy soil and plants. When
mulches break down, they become humus that feeds the soil. A good mulch
will do all this and be readily available, free, easy to apply and will stay in
place without much effort.

Some general rules for mulching: Annuals and perennials (both flowers and
vegetables) should be mulched with materials that break down in a relatively
short time, such as grass clippings and leaves. This allows you to turn under
the mulch on annual beds when the soil is dug.

Trees and shrubs should be mulched with an attractive thick layer of wood
chips that requires little maintenance. Paths can also be covered with wood
chips, in layers as thick as is practical to wear longer and keep down weeds.
Some experts recommend placing a layer of plastic or cardboard underneath
the mulch.

Mulch material and their uses: Grass clippings can be spread regularly in thin
layers over vegetable and flower beds, or mixed with leaves and spread in a
thicker layer. Spread grass clippings no more than 1-inch thick so that they
don't mat and prevent water from penetrating into the soil. Leaves of
deciduous trees can be spread as mulch in the fall. Evergreen leaves can also
be used, but they take longer to turn a dark color and decay. Sawdust and
other finely-ground woody materials can be used on the surface, but should
not be mixed into the soil. These finely ground materials that have not been
composted may tie up nitrogen in your soil, causing your plantings to become
yellow and stunted.

Applying mulch materials: Weed the area to be mulched before applying the
mulch. For best results, mulch can be spread around any plant as far as the
distance of its outermost branching (this is called the drip line ), or it can
cover an entire garden bed. Mulch can be spread thickly if water is able to
penetrate and if it does not smother the roots of the plant being mulched.
Three inches of mulch is safe for any woody plant and up to eight inches of
mulch can be used for large trees. Thick mulches are harmful to shallow-
rooted plants such as rhododendrons and azaleas.

Where to find mulch materials? The best place to look for mulch materials is in
your own yard. Every yard has grass, leaves, other green materials that can
be made into mulch. If you can use wood chips, try contacting a tree service
or landscaper listed in The Yellow Pages. If they are working in your area,
they are often happy to deliver woody wastes and avoid extra travel and
dumping expenses. Some wood shops and coffee roasters make their organic
byproducts available to customers and the general public.

Additionally, free mulch is available to county residents at:

Tomoka  Landfill, 1990 Tomoka Farms Road, Port Orange

West Volusia Transfer Station, 3151 E. New York Ave., DeLand

This service is completely self-service and based on availability. If interested

please call 3869437889.

Tools for mulch-making: A rotary mower run across dry leaves will make a
fine-textured mulch for annuals and smaller plants. A small electric chipper
will make a fine-textured mulch of woody stalks and branches up to 11/4
inches thick. Gas-powered shredders of 5 to 8 horsepower capable of
processing materials up to 3-inches in diameter can be rented or purchased.
Large gas-powered chippers able to handle woody-wastes up to 6-inches in
diameter are available at rental shops. In general, the larger the machine, the
faster the mulch-making.
Where to find mulch-making tools? Look under "Rental Service Stores" and
"Yards" in The Yellow Pages and find tool rental locations nearest you. Call
ahead, because not all tool rental stores carry chippers and shredders. Let
them know the type of material you want to turn into mulch and find out if
their machine can do the job. Shredders and chippers are also sold at lawn
and garden equipment stores listed in the Yellow Pages.

3. Composting
Passive composting bins - Simple containers or
open piles for yard wastes are the least labor and
time-consuming way to compost.

Which wastes? Non-woody yard wastes are the

most appropriate.
How? Place the holding unit or pile where it is most
convenient. As weeds, grass clippings, leaves and harvest remains from
garden plants are collected, they can be added to the unit or pile.
Chopping or shredding wastes, alternating high-carbon with high-nitrogen
materials, and providing adequate moisture and aeration will all speed the
composting process.
Advantages and disadvantages: For yard wastes, a holding unit or pile is
the simplest method. The unit or pile is portable; it can be moved to
wherever needed in the garden. The method can take from six months to
two years to compost organic materials, so you only need to be patient.
Variations: Holding units can be made of circles or hardware cloth, old
wooden pallets, or wood and wire. Sod can also be composted with or
without a holding unit by turning sections of it over, making sure that there
is adequate moisture and covering it with black plastic. For aesthetic
reasons, the open pile should be placed in a place inconspicuous to you
and your neighbors.

Active composting bins - This is a series of three or more bins that allows
wastes to be turned on a regular schedule. Turning units are most appropriate
for gardeners with a large volume of yard waste and the desire to make a
high-quality compost.

Which wastes? Non-woody yard wastes are appropriate.

How? Alternate layers of high-carbon and high-nitrogen materials to about
a 301 ratio. Add more nitrogen materials if the pile doesn't get hot, and
keep the pile as moist as a damp sponge. Check the pile temperature
regularly. When the heat decreases substantially 5 to 10 days), turn the
pile into the next bin. Then make a new pile in the original bin. Repeat the
process each time the pile in the first bin cools. After two weeks in the third
bin, the compost should be ready for the garden use. See the Rodale Guide
to Composting in your library for more information on hot composting.
Advantages and Disadvantages: This method produces a high-quality
compost in a short time but requires more effort and space than a holding
unit.
Variations: The unit can be built of wood, a combination of wood and wire,
or concrete blocks. Another type of turning unit is the barrel composter,
which tumbles the wastes for aeration.

Troubleshooting
The following chart is a guide to more efficient composting using a turning
unit.

Symptom Problem Solution

 Compost has Not enough air Turn the pile to
bad odor loosen it.

The center of Not enough Moisten materials

the pile is dry water while turning the
pile.

Compost is Too small. Collect more

damp and material and mix the
warm in the old ingredients into
middle but a new pile.
nowhere else.

The heap is Lack of Mix in a nitrogen

damp and nitrogen. source like fresh
sweet-smelling manure, bloodmeal
but still will not or ammonium
heat up. sulfate.

 
Essentials of composting
With these principles in mind, everyone can make excellent use of their
organic yard waste.

Biology
The compost pile is really a teeming microbial farm. Bacteria start the process
of decaying organic matter, breaking down plant tissue. They are also the
most numerous and effective composters. Fungi and protozoans soon join the
bacteria and, somewhat later in the cycle, centipedes, millipedes, beetles and
earthworms do their part.

Surface area
The more surface area the microorganisms have to work on, the faster the
materials will decompose. It's like a block of ice in the sun - slow to melt when
it's large, but melting very quickly when broken into smaller pieces. Chopping
your garden wastes with a shovel or machete, or running them through a
shredding machine or lawn mower, will speed the composting process.

Materials
Anything growing in your yard is potential food for these tiny decomposers.
Carbon an nitrogen, from the cells of dead plants and dead microbes, fuel
their activity. The microorganisms use the carbon in leaves or woodier wastes
as an energy source. Nitrogen provides the microbes with the raw element of
proteins to build their bodies.

Everything organic has a ratio of carbon to nitrogen CN in its tissues,

ranging from 5001 for sawdust, to 151 for table scraps. A CN ratio of 301 is
ideal for the activity of compost microbes. Fresh grass clippings, with a CN
ratio of 201, have too much nitrogen. Brown tree leaves have too little: 401.
The proper ratio of grass to leaves may vary but should not exceed 1 part
grass for 1 part leaves. Layering can be useful in arriving at these proportions,
but a complete mixing of ingredients is preferable for the composting
process. Other materials can also be used such weeds and garden wastes.
Generally, brown materials such as fallen leaves and sawdust are high in
carbon, while green materials such as grass clippings and weeds are high in
nitrogen. If you save your fall leaves in bags or piles, they will provide an
excellent source of carbon to mix with your grass clippings the following
spring and summer. Though the CN ratio of 301 is ideal for a fast, hot
compost, a higher CN ratio (i.e. 501 will be adequate for a slower compost.
Volume
A large compost pile will insulate itself and hold the heat of microbial activity.
Its center will be warmer than its edges. Piles smaller than 3 feet cubed 27
cu. ft.) will have trouble holding this heat, while piles larger than 5 feet cubed
125 cu. ft.) don't allow enough air to reach the microbes at the center. These
proportions are of importance only if your goal is a fast, hot compost.

Moisture and aeration

Virtually all life on earth needs a certain amount of water and air to sustain
itself. The microbes in the compost pile are no different. They function best
when the compost materials are about as moist as a wrung-out sponge.
Extremes of sun or rain can disrupt the moisture balance in your pile.
Therefore, you may need to add water to your compost pile if it is too dry or
cover the pile if it is receiving too much moisture. It is also important for
compost materials to receive adequate aeration. Compost piles comprised
primarily of grass clippings do not allow air to circulate through the pile. By
mixing leaves or small limbs and twigs with your grass clippings, you provide
spaces for air to circulate through the pile.

Time and temperature

Generally speaking, the hotter the pile, the faster the composting. If you use
materials with a proper CN ratio, provide a large amount of surface area, a
sufficient volume and see that moisture and aeration are adequate, you will
have a hot, fast compost (hot enough to burn your hand!. If you just want to
deal with your yard waste in an inexpensive, easy way, the holding unit
(discussed on the inside) will serve you well.

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