Option #2 - Fooling the ECU using an EGR Simulation Circuit

If you don't feel like using a block off plate then you can build this EGR simulation circuit. Just
to clarify, you can defeat the EGR either with a block-off plate or using this circuit. There's no
need to do both. The EGR simulation circuit fools the ECU into thinking that the EGR is
working when in actual fact, it is disconnected, shut off and no exhaust gases can get into the
intake manifold.

There are two parts to the EGR system and here's how they work electrically:

• EGR solenoid

The +12V EGR solenoid is mounted on the passenger fender well and controls the
vacuum to open the EGR valve. If you disconnect the electrical connector, the ECU
detects that it is disconnected and generates an error code. You can replace the EGR
solenoid with a 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistor. This will fool the ECU into thinking that the
EGR solenoid is still connected.

• EGR position sensor

The ECU expects that in the closed position, it will receive a minimum 0.5V signal from
the EGR position sensor. In the open position, when the EGR solenoid is energized, it
expects a +5V signal. In testing, I found that it takes almost no vacuum to energize the
EGR valve to the full open position. I have a vacuum hand pump tester and I had just
started to pump to create vacuum, the needle barely moved and the EGR valve was open.

The key then is to take the EGR solenoid's drive signal from the ECU and use it to falsely
generate an EGR position sensor signal that the ECU expects to see.
In the preceding circuit, I used an inexpensive $0.25 PNP transistor, 2N3906 to fool the
ECU into thinking that the EGR valve was in the correct position. When the EGR
solenoid is off (+12V at Brn/Pink wire), the transistor is off (acts like an open switch
between the transistor's C and E pins). The transistor appears to be not part of the circuit
and we're left with a simple voltage divider. The 30k/3.3k ohm voltage divider creates a
0.5V signal to the ECU's EGR position sensor input which is what the ECU expects.

When the EGR solenoid is energized (on), there is 0V at the Brn/Pink wire. The transistor
turns on and this acts like a short between the transistor's C and E pins (like turning on a
switch). The 30k ohm resistor is shorted and +5V goes to the ECU's EGR position sensor
input which is what the ECU expects.

On my Ranger, the EGR Solenoid connector is quite long and taking it apart, I found an
extension has been added that holds a current limiting resistor. I added the 100 ohm
resistor inside the extension. I did have to run a wire from the EGR solenoid connector on
the passenger side of the engine compartment to the EGR position sensor wiring on the
driver's side firewall.
OK, this works on a W211 with CDI3 electronic EGR valve and 648 (IL6 320 cdi) engine.

It satisfies EGR monitoring function over various driving conditions, and also prevents EGR valve
open circuit/short circuit etc fault codes.
On road test the car performed very well, with no black smoke but plenty of acceleration on
demand, as said, no codes are being logged during mixed road test and period of idling.

What does it do?

R3 gives a path to ground to 'drag down' maf signal voltage as per earlier CDI2 mod. The diode
again is also as per the other mod, and prevents the circuit from raising the maf voltage above
its natural value.

R1 satisfies the monitoring of the EGR valve, to avoid open circuit codes.

R2 is a balancing resistor, and has a value chosen with the gain of the transistor in mind, to
ensure the transistor is fully saturated when on.

The transistor is used as an inverter, to reverse the PWM signal.

The mod should cause no damage to any electronic components on the car, the max current
that can flow is through R3, limited to 18ma or so.
In general it's felt that having the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system on diesel engines is good for
reducing the NOX output but bad in all other respects.
It reduces economy, creates more smoke, increases problems and maintenance requirements due to
clogging the intake and can reduce overall engine life.
As a result of wanting greater economy I decided to stop the exhaust gas being recirculated. The
problem with doing this on a modern engine is that the EGR valve operation is monitored by the MAF
sensor.
The only way to disable the EGR and not trip a fault code and limp home mode is to fool the MAF into
thinking the EGR is still working.

On another forum I saw a member Karteck was also looking into this and performing some testing on
what resistance values to use to create the required drop in MAF output when the MAF should be
operating. He provided the below circuit to use.

The basic circuit for this comprises of two resistors to act as a potential divider and a diode to stop 12v
being fed into the MAF circuit.

By connecting into the EGR vacuum transducer activation wire this causes the circuit to only operate
when the transducer should be operating the EGR valve.

The standard circuit is a 1k ohm resistor, a 470 ohm resistor and a diode. 1/4 Watt resistors work OK.
The above is for a W210 300TD but the same components should suffice for most applications, but the
connections will need to be determined.

First locate the EGR vacuum transducer and disconnect the wiring plug. Using a meter check which wire
is the 12v feed and which is the active low signal wire.
Next go to the MAF sensor and again using the meter source the signal wire, which should be Pin5.

For ease of connection trace these wires back to the engine ECU. The easiest way to do this is to
disconnect the connector, remove the screw in the back of the connector and prise the connector apart
to reveal the wires.
In practice removing the screw and operating the over centre catch will part the connector.
Build the circuit and insulate the components then after locating the appropriate connections (12v, EGR
active low, MAF signal) strip the insulation from the wires and solder the mod in place, then make good
the insulation.
You will need to disconnect the EGR transducer electrical connection, so ensure you tape it up to stop
any water ingress.

The final installation will look something like this, although normally the wires are tucked away by the
side of the loom.
The next diagram is for a ML270 just to show the connections. It's the same components, just different
ECU connections.
W210 300TD is:

Switched 12v (sorry, can't remember which pin I used)

EGR signal = Pin 35
MAF signal = Pin 21

ML270 CDi:

12v = Pin 37, plug 3

EGR signal = Pin 60, plug 3
MAF signal = Pin 24, plug 4
I think the above will work for all Vacuum transducer type EGR valves, but the connections may vary.

if you try this mod please report back your connections.