Professional Documents
Culture Documents
2014
index
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vitale barberis canonico: the company
For more than 350 years, all the phases of the wool processing have been
carried out in the historical buildings in Pratrivero in the Biellese Prealps,
the heart of the textile-producing area, where the best waters flow for the
processing of high-quality wools. This is where the textiles come from
which are bought by the most famous gentlemen’s tailors, from Caraceni to
Panico, from the tailors of Savile Row to all the other masters of the tailor’s
skill throughout the world.
With over 400 skilled workers, 40 agents all over the world, two state-
of-the-art establishments in the Biella area and avant-garde management
methods, VBC has taken its place amongst the top companies in the world
for the production of high-quality wools in terms of both value and quanti-
ty, and on a global level as the main exporter.
The company has turned export into one of its key strengths: today
it sells on every continent exporting more than 85% of its production to
100 countries. It has been represented in China, one of its main markets, for
more than 40 years and realises approximately 20% of its entire turnover
there.
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Moreover, production is carried out 100% in Italy: the company in-
vests to a large extentin Italy, where it is at home, and in a period when
Italian wool-producing companies have poor prospectives.
The company, known throughout the world for the excellence of its
wools, the fineness of its yarns, the refinement and elegance of its designs
and colours, the pleasurable comfort and wearability, is a leader in the
field of super-fine wools as well as being the main producer in terms
of quantity and exports.
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the history
The splitting of the tasks between the two brothers proves to be posi-
tive for the expansion of the company: the factory begins to grow and the
profits made are invested most importantly in the acquisition of land, the
harvests from which are used to pay the workers.
During the Napoleonic period, the competition from the French wool
industry becomes fiercer and the death of Giuseppe in 1804 leads to the
dissolving of the company in 1808.
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ning is commissioned in other establishments which are already mecha-
nised. Mechanisation takes place over a very short period, although some
hand looms are still used, a practice also continued by the competition.
In the late 1800s, the factory counts 800 spindles and 73 looms with a
production of 4,000 pieces of medium-quality fabric per year.
During World War I, the company is awarded a large contract for mili-
tary supplies which enables it to increase the size of the establishment at
the end of the conflict, to buy new land and buildings, and in 1921, to build
two new factories, also in Pratrivero. At this point, there are three factories
which are managed by Giovanni and Alfredo, Luigi and Guglielmo, and Or-
este and Vitale respectively.
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• from 1936 to 1970 •
In 1956 turnover has more than doubled as a result of the new build-
ings and state-of-theart technology, leading to a rise in qualitative standards
and consolidation of the high-prestige image on the international market.
• after 1970 •
In 1971 the company goes public and the two brothers separate their
fields of activity: Alberto, who graduated from Milan Polytechnic in me-
chanical engineering, takes over the technical and technological side of the
business. He renews the technology used, studies the machinery and its be-
haviour in terms of the product with the aim of increasing the quality of
the process whilst reducing energy consumption.
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Luciano, who graduated in economics at the Bocconi University in Mi-
lan, has increased the export business to 80% of the turnover. His ideas
cross international borders to embrace the whole world and he creates a
capillary network of agents in various countries using an approach where-
by all of them receive the same treatment.
Since 2008, the two directors have left the management of the company
to the new generation of the family, who have already been working in the
company for some years, during which time they have had the opportunity
to learn how to successfully run a large and important company such as
the wool mill is today.
Today, Vitale Barberis Canonico, with its 350 years of history, is the old-
est wool mill in the world and one of the most prestigious and highly-re-
garded “made in italy” trademarks.
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the henokiens association
The association, which was founded in Paris in 1981, takes its name
from the biblical character of Enoch (who managed to live 365 years before
being taken up to Heaven by God). The foundation of the association was
brought about in 1981 by Gérard Glotin, President of the French company
Marie Brizard, and it has a very precise objective, namely that of telling the
success stories of companies which are a real alternative to the multina-
tionals, creating collaborations and talking about histories, traditions and
longevity over the centuries. The same principles which can be said of Vi-
tale Barberis Canonico.
With the new entry Vitale Barberis Canonico, the number of the mem-
ber companies increased to 44: the number of Italian companies is 17
(these include such names as Amarelli 1731, Fratelli Piacenza 1733, Fabbri-
ca D’Armi Piero Beretta 1526, and Distillerie Nardini 1779), in comparison
to 11 French companies, 4 German, 3 Swiss, 2 Dutch, 1 Belgian, 1 Austrian,
1 Northern Irish and 4 Japanese (including Hoshi 717, the traditional Japa-
nese hotel which is the oldest family business in all the world).
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the values and the csr
The superiority of Made in Italy textiles, the quality of the raw mate-
rials, their elegance and their style, protecting the environment, paying
constant attention to the health of the employees and customers and the
excellence of the services offered all make up a convincing example of the
strategy of ingredient branding.
These are the values of the company and the secrets of the success which it has
consolidated over the years. Vitale Barberis Canonico represents a point of ref-
erence in the world in terms of the finest Made in Italy fabrics and is an excel-
lent example of corporate social responsibility. This policy applies to all sectors
of the production department of Vitale Barberis Canonico and demonstrates a par-
ticular sensitivity and culture which aim at excellence not only of the product itself.
In Rome on 24th October, 2005, the wool mill was awarded a prize for the plan-
ning, construction and installation of specially sound-proofed cabins at each loom
in its premises. The prize, which is conferred by the European Agency for Safety and
Health at Work, Bilbao, was awarded in the context of the European Week, an infor-
mation campaign at European level to promote activities which improve safety in
the working environment.
A weaving shed in a wool mill is, in fact, often a challenging environment due
to the high levels of noise pollution (exceeding 100 dB) which cause damage to the
hearing and entail risks for the employees. Thanks to the installation of these particu-
lar anti-noise hoods, the Vitale Barberis Canonico weaving shed in Pratrivero is the
only one in the world where the noise pollution is lower than 85 dB with 88 looms
working within a space of 3500 sq.m.
The first integral loom cover was implemented in 1989, even before Italian legis-
lation recognised European Directives.
Noise reduction does not only apply to the working environment. Noise could
also cause disturbance to the housing near the factory and has been practically elimi-
nated thanks to the particular ventilation installations in the buildings.
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Social responsibility also means valuing water. Water consumption is one
of the priorities in the planning of the dyeing and finishing processes. In com-
parison with the averages in the textile sector of 50 - 60 litres per metre of fin-
ished fabric, Vitale Barberis Canonico only consumes 39. The analysis of the wa-
ter emissions and the attention paid to the quality at the end of the purification
process are extremely rigorous, so much so, that goldfish and carp live happily
in the final tank. In this area too the company has always been avant-garde: the
treatment of the water emissions was started by Vitale Barberis Canonico even
before the Merli Law (319/1976) regarding the environment came into force. In
this way, the wool mill at Pratrivero was one of the very few to pass inspection
when it became the legal requirement.
Through such continual progress, the plant can now boast of its improved
efficiency: the biological treatment using active sludge is capable of purifying
approximately 1,200 cubic metres per day. The water then flows into a stream,
the Rio delle Mollie, and is well below the limits imposed by the anti-pollution
laws.
Vitale Barberis Canonico additionally pays great attention to the use of chem-
ical products and uses only the absolutely necessary amount (both with regard
to quantity and type), with an evident advantage for the customer: the company
can in fact guarantee the absence of any residual toxins in the finished product.
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the strengths
MADE IN ITALY
QUALITY
The selection of only the best wools in the world and the meticulous
attention paid to production procedures represent the fundamental factors
which lead to the highest of quality standards and comprehensive uni-
formity across all our products.
These are the elements on which the company bases its decisions, also
thanks to the innovative and forward-looking style which are also charac-
teristics of the new generation (the thirteenth) who are now at the helm of
the company. Vitale Barberis Canonico, the oldest wool mill in the world,
distinguishes itself on the market by marrying the concept of “Classic with
a Twist” and a very British style. With a flexible approach towards the limi-
tations of the present and with a constant and attentive regard towards the
future, the company is able to manage change with a sense of coherence, in
perfect equilibrium between vintage and innovation.
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It has always been a pioneer in new markets, and today, it is the most
widely represented company in the world, and has understood how to win
recognition and appreciation for its products and their quality on every
continent.
The facilities are equipped with very advanced and sophisticated tech-
nology with exclusive software and internally-programmed machinery, a
true example of brilliance in the technological field. It was the first compa-
ny to equip its looms with sound-proofing systems, which were designed,
built and installed all within the company.
In the dye works, a new automation process has been introduced, also
developed internally, which offers a number of advantages: in fact, it ena-
bles dyeing to be carried out during the night, with no lights, with no work-
ers present, thus guaranteeing a notable saving in terms of time and ener-
gy, and also offering improved precision in the processes. Every year, the
company invests important sums in machinery and new equipment, and
in research and development of innovative technology which is always
ground-breaking.
EFFICIENCY
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the production cycle
1 PURCHASING:
2 COMBING:
3 SPINNING:
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aim of spinning is to obtain an end product which is as
homogenous as possible, meaning uniform characteris-
tics in terms of resistance, count, colour, integrity and
elasticity.
4 WARPING:
5 WEAVING:
6 DYEING:
7 TEXTILE FINISHING:
all of the fabrics are minutely checked in order to elim-
inate any impurity or flaw.
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the range and the collections
With its long tradition of wool manufacturing, the wool mill produces
the best traditional textiles for menswear: two million kilograms per year
equates to nine thousand kilograms per day, predominantly Saxon Merino
wool, the highest quality wools from Australia.
Today’s styles, while still rigorously observing the edicts of classic ele-
gance, are very much characterised by the presence of a new component:
contemporaneousness.
Being elegant means paying attention to new generations and their life-
styles and trends. It means asking questions while looking at the present
and the future and knowing how to manage change with flexibility and
coherence, in a perfect balance between vintage and innovation.
The best wools, which are painstakingly selected during the purchasing
phase, excel both in terms of fineness and style. The average fineness is
17.5 microns, the style is a result of the combination of factors such as reg-
ularity of the fibres, crimp and absence of scale.
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The collections can be sub-divided into
FOUR principle ranges:
CLASSIC RANGE
The spirit with which the articles for this line are planned and chosen
is to harmoniously bring together products whereby the quality of the ma-
terials and the virtuosity of the technical processes are hidden behind the
naturalness with which they are presented. Classic is not about loudness
or boasting, but about refining the person wearing it and enhancing his
innate elegance.
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these all link together to form a chain of formal and vital, contemporane-
ous products, which can express gravity or glamour, essentiality or refine-
ment depending on the disposition and mood of the person wearing them.
THE RANGE AND THE COLLECTIONS 10 Fabrics which have the talent
to convince by day and astonish by night, always projecting an image of
confidence, composure; a choice which is up to date and is never wrong.
With very differing structures and weights, the Orient Express range is de-
signed to be easy to wear, at any hour of the day and on any occasion. As if
you were meeting people of every language and culture and therefore, in a
certain sense, travelling even when sitting at your desk.
VINTAGE RANGE
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Earth, Wind & Fire RANGE
The new line dedicated to the world of functional fabrics, where the
wool is combined with technical materials that enhance the performance
without compromising the enjoyment of the natural fiber.
The line comes in seven families that take their name from the most
important places of winter tourism in the world. This is how Chamonix,
Sankt Moritz, Aspen, Méribel, Cortina, Gstaad and Zermatt, where some of
the most classic fabrics of combed wool mill as flannel, flannel carded and
combed Perennial, are combined with high-performance technical fabrics
for a balance perfect combination of comfort, performance and technolog-
ical innovation.
The Line Earth, Wind & Fire is designed for outdoor leaders capable of
challenging the most adverse weather conditions without sacrificing the
innate elegance.
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the distribution throughout the world
Today the wool mill is one of the best-known textile companies in the
world which is a result of the efficient commercial network supported by
50 agents. Exports have grown constantly over the years and now repre-
sent 80% of production. Vitale Barberis Canonico’s customers throughout
the world can be sub-divided into two main groups:
• Men’s Clothiers and shops, where 80% of production is destined;
• Wholesalers, who take the remaining 20%.
the numbers
As of As of As of As of As of
31/12/09 31/12/10 31/12/11 31/12/12 31/12/13
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for further information
Francesca Pelagotti
+39 02 365 86 889 +39 366 70 62 302 francescapelagotti@fcomm.it
Valentina Berti
+39 02 365 86 889 +39 342 06 86 448 valentinaberti@fcomm.it
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