A Complete Guide to Using Plumbing Fittings for

Joining PVC, PEX, and Copper Pipe

Updated on August 15, 2017

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Eugene Brennan
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Eugene, an avid self taught DIYer, has acquired 30 years of experience with power/hand tools,
plumbing, electrics and woodwork.

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A DIY Guide to Plumbing

Basic plumbing isn't rocket science. If you are reasonably adept at DIY, learn some of the basics,
and take care when putting everything together, it's not too difficult. This is a basic guide to pipe
types, plumbing fittings, thread sizes, and how to use fittings to connect copper, PVC, and PEX
pipes.

What Materials Are Used for Plumbing Pipe?

Plumbing pipe is made from various materials, copper, galvanized steel and iron, polyvinylchloride
(PVC), chlorinated polyvinylchloride (CPVC), cross-linked high density polyethylene (PEX), and
polybutylene. Fittings are made from brass, plastic, copper, or malleable iron.

 Copper This is widely used and can withstand very high temperatures. It is exclusively used for
the final connections made to central heating boilers/furnaces where temperatures may exceed
100 C (212 F). The disadvantage of copper pipe (or "tube" as it is known in the plumbing
industry) is that it is rigid and either must be bent into shape using special tools, or alternatively
by using discrete lengths of pipe and 45 or 90 joints.

 Stainless Steel In the 70s, stainless steel plumbing was popular when there was a copper
shortage. It is even more rigid than copper so slight alteration by bending can be difficult.
Stainless steel is supposed to be more corrosion resistant than copper and is sometimes used
for aesthetic reasons where plumbing must be exposed.

 PVC, CPVC and PEX Piping made from these polymers (plastic) has several advantages over
copper. Plastic pipe is ductile and can be easily bent, lessening the need for bends. If a really
tight bend is required, 90 degree elbow joints can be used. It can also be easily routed through
floor and wall spaces. Plastic is a better insulator than metal, so heat loss is reduced. Usually
plastic piping has more "give" and will stretch more than copper when water freezes and
expands inside the pipe, reducing the danger of bursting in sub -zero temperatures.
PVC or poly vinyl chloride is the most basic type of plastic pipe use for both drinking water
plumbing and waste pipe. Chlorinated PVC or CPVC has the same characteristics as standard
PVC but has better corrosion resistance at higher water temperatures and is also significantly
more ductile.
Plumbing is also made from cross-linked high-density polyethylene or PEX. This is a tough
ductile material which can survive temperatures as low as -20 C (-4 F) without bursting.
However it is susceptible to UV and needs to be shielded using insulation or otherwise to
prevent degradation. PEX is also less than half the price of copper and doesn't corrode when
used in areas where the water supply is acidic. Care needs to be taken when working near
plastic piping or fittings to avoid heat damage from blow torches or other heat producing tools.
Piping should also be routed during installation so that it isn't subjected to high temperatures
from heat sources such as flues.

 Ductile (Malleable) iron Used for water, gas, compressed air, and as a rigid metal conduit
(RMC) for housing cables in industrial and commercial applications. It is much stronger than
copper or plastic pipe but not so common in domestic installations. Ductile iron or cast iron was
often used for larger diameter water mains before the advent of plastic.
  Lead No longer used for plumbing in new installations because of concerns over toxicity of the
metal, lead piping was phased out after WWII when copper became popular.

<img src="https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/12154286_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.56172839506173"

alt="1/2 inch PEX pipe can be bent to a min radius of 4 inches (depending on wall thickness) "
title="1/2 inch PEX pipe can be bent to a min radius of 4 inches (depending on wall thickness) "/>
1/2 inch PEX pipe can be bent to a min radius of 4 inches (depending on wall thickness) | Source

<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12154299_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.56172839506173"

alt="3/4 inch BSP ductile iron pipe and coupler" title="3/4 inch BSP ductile iron pipe and coupler"/>
3/4 inch BSP ductile iron pipe and coupler | Source

Types of Plumbing Fittings

Fittings are made from various materials including plastic, brass, copper and iron. There are a huge
variety of types with different functions including, 90 and 45 degree elbows, offsets, T -joints, Y-joints,
cross joints, gate valves, ball valves, non-return (check valves), reduction fittings, couplers and
flange (bulkhead) fittings for making a connection to oil or water tanks.

 Brass threaded and compression fittings These have 2 or more ports or entry points for
connection to pipes or fixtures. They may be compression only, compression and screwed, or
screwed only. The compression port is used for connecting a pipe and the screwed port (if
included), known as a union, connects to a fixture or device such as a radiator, WC, furnace,
spiggot, pressure gage, water tank etc. The screwed section of the fitting may have male or
female threads. Fittings with compression ports only, are used to join 2 or more pipes together,
and are simple to use by the average DIYer once pipes are prepared correctly, a nd the fitting is
assembled properly. This type of fitting makes use of a copper or brass olive ring also known
as a ferrule, which is slid onto the end of the pipe before insertion. This is then deformed and
squeezed tightly against the tapered surface of the fitting as a nut on the pipe is tightened. This
seals the fitting and prevents water leaking out.
Compression fittings can be used for connecting plastic or copper pipe and although easy to
use, are relatively bulky and more expensive than other metho ds used for making joints.
Another disadvantage is that a pipe can possibly turn within the fitting (e.g a coiled copper pipe
behind an ice making refrigerator can turn as the fridge is pushed in and out repeatedly) , and
over time this can cause leaks, so this needs to be taken into consideration. Compression
fittings can be easily disassembled.
Brass fittings are not recommended for use underground.
Plumbers often use PTFE tape or jointing compound (which is like soft putty) on compression
fittings to be totally sure they don't leak. However manufacturers don't recommend this because
they reckon it can prevent the olive from sealing properly.

 Capillary fittings are made from copper and employ a soldered joint to connect pipes together.
The pipes to be joined are inserted into the fitting which is heated. Solder flows by capillary
action to fill the small gap between pipe and fitting, sealing and making a strong joint which is
resistant to pulling and rotation of the pipes. These type of fittings either come with a ring of
solder included (Yorkshire fitting) or solder wire must be melted and fed into the joint as it is
heated.
Capillary fittings are slim and neat, inexpensive, and form a strong joint between pipes.
However they are more difficult to use by the novice and since the fitting must be heated using
a blowtorch, there is always the danger of fire when used in a confined space. Also preparation
 of pipes and fitting is essential, and these must be cleaned with wire wool so that solder flows
and coats all the surfaces being joined.

 Ductile (Malleable) Iron Screwed Fittings can be used with water and compressed air and
are relatively inexpensive. These fittings are often encountered on the inlet/outlets of central
heating boilers/furnaces, on pumps and on air compressors. Because iron is less expensive
and stronger than brass, iron fittings are advantageous, especially when large sizes are
required.
Galvanized versions of these fittings are available which are resistant to external corrosion.

 Plastic and Copper Alloy Push Fittings are available for joining plastic and copper pipe. To
use them, you just have to cut the end of a pipe square and push it into the fitting, which relies
on an internal O-ring which compresses tightly against the pipe when inserted. These fittings
also incorporate some form of collet / toothed ring arrangement which digs into the pipe and
prevents it from being pulled out again.
These type of fittings are very easy and convenient to use, especially in tight spaces, enabling
pipes to be jointed quickly. They can also usually be disassembled by hand, or by using a
special key. In both cases, this retracts the teeth, allowing the pipe to be removed. Fittings
which can be disassembled by hand without using a key, sometimes have a twist lock feature.
This gives added insurance, and locks the collet, preventing inadvertent release of a pipe from
a fitting if something accidentally pushes against the collet. Sharkbite and Speedfit are two well
known brands of these types of fittings

Push fittings can be used with copper, CPVC and PEX tube but aren't suitable for PVC. See
Connecting PEX to PVC for more details.

Examples of Plumbing Fittings

<img src="https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/12133586_f520.jpg" data-ratio="0.92724952137843"
alt="Clockwise from top left: Compression elbow, iron reduction bushing with BSP threads, copper
capillary elbow, compression elbow with 1/2 inch threaded BSP port, " title="Clockwise from top lef t:
Compression elbow, iron reduction bushing with BSP threads, copper capillary elbow, compression
elbow with 1/2 inch threaded BSP port, "/>
Clockwise from top left: Compression elbow, iron reduction bushing with BSP threads, copper
capillary elbow, compression elbow with 1/2 inch threaded BSP port, | Source
<img src="https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/12151094_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.86" alt="Speedfit,
equal elbow, push fit plastic fitting. Speedfit is a registered trademark of John Guest Ltd"
title="Speedfit, equal elbow, push fit plastic fitting. Speedfit is a registered trademark of John Guest
Ltd"/>
Speedfit, equal elbow, push fit plastic fitting. Speedfit is a registered trademark of John Guest Ltd |
Source
<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12133627_f520.jpg" data-ratio="0.75" alt="Wall plate
union and spigot, bib or outside tap. The wall plate union has 1/2 inch female BSP threads for
connection to the spigot, and a compression input port for attaching to copper or plastic pipe "
title="Wall plate union and spigot, bib or outside tap. The wall plate union has 1/2 inch female BSP
threads for connection to the spigot, and a compression input port for attaching to copper or plastic
pipe "/>
Wall plate union and spigot, bib or outside tap. The wall plate union has 1/2 inch female BSP threads
for connection to the spigot, and a compression input port for attaching to copper or plastic pipe |
Source
<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12146057_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.75" alt="This 1/2
inch, malleable iron, 90 degree elbow, used on the output of an air compressor, has female BSP
threads" title="This 1/2 inch, malleable iron, 90 degree elbow, used on the output of an air
compressor, has female BSP threads"/>
This 1/2 inch, malleable iron, 90 degree elbow, used on the output of an air compressor, has female
BSP threads

Sizes of Fittings, Pipe Sizes and Threads

Copper and plastic plumbing is technically referred to as tubing.

Steel plumbing is referred to as piping.

Pipe sizes and standards can be somewhat confusing. For example if you measure a 1/2 inch pipe
or 1/2 inch fitting, neither the internal or external diameter of the pipe, nor the diameter of the thread
are necessarily 1/2 inch. It is only called 1/2 inch for historical reasons. This dimension originally
referred to the internal diameter of a pipe used with the 1/2 inch fitting, which in the early days of
manufacture would have been thick walled.

 U.S.A. - Fittings follow the National Pipe Thread Taper (NPT) standard defined in ANSI/ASME
B1.20.1. Commonly used sizes are 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch. This dimension refers not to the
diameter of the threads, but to the internal diameter of iron pipe used with the fittings
 (specifically Schedule 40 pipe). Copper and plastic tubing follows the Copper Tube Size (CTS)
standard with outside diameter being 1/8 inch greater than the Nominal Pipe Size (NPS). For
example a 1/2 inch tube has an OD of 1/2 + 1/8 = 5/8 inch

 U.K. - The thread used for fittings is BSP which stands for British Standard Pipe Thread,
defined in BS EN 10226-1 and BS EN ISO 0228-1. The most common sizes encountered in the
home are 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch. These sizes originally referred to the inner diameter of a
steel pipe for which the fitting was intended. Copper and pla stic tube used with these fittings
has been metric since 1971. The most common sizes are 10, 15, 22 and 28 mm for domestic
applications. The size refers to the outside diameter of the tube.

 Ireland - Threads on fittings are BSP. Tube sizes are imperial and normally quoted by referring
to the BSP thread size of the corresponding fitting, e.g. 1/2, 3/4, 1 inch. The outside diameter of
plumbing tube is slightly less than the corresponding British versions which can lead to issues
with leaks if fittings and tube are mixed and matched. (See table below)

FIP and MIP meaning Female Iron Pipe and Male Iron Pipe respectively are terms sometimes used
to refer to the gender of the threads used on a fitting.

For more info and sizes, see

 Gizmology's Notes on Pipe.

 Wikipedia's pages about copper tubing, British standard pipe thread sizes, or national pipe
thread sizes.

NPT Pipe, Thread and Tube Sizes

<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12130687_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.28135990621336"

alt="NPT thread and nominal pipe sizes" title="NPT thread and nominal pipe sizes"/>
NPT thread and nominal pipe sizes | Source

BSP Pipe, Thread and Tube Sizes

<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12130823_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.280276816609"
alt="BSP thread and trade pipe sizes" title="BSP thread and trade pipe sizes"/>
BSP thread and trade pipe sizes | Source

How to Cut Copper or Plastic Pipe

Copper or plastic pipe can be cut with a hacksaw. However if you use a pipe cutting tool, it gives a
cleaner, squarer cut without burrs. The type in the video below can be used to cut copper pipe. It can
cut plastic pipe also with a little bit of effort, however a plastic pipe cutting shears does a better job.

File off any burrs on copper pipe after cutting if you use a hacksaw.

<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12132055_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.75" alt="Cut tube

with a pipe cutter" title="Cut tube with a pipe cutter"/>
Cut tube with a pipe cutter | Source
<img src="https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/12132062_f520.jpg" data-ratio="0.70427470217239"
alt="Existing plumbing may need to be cut with a hacksaw if there isn't enough clearance to use a
pipe cutter" title="Existing plumbing may need to be cut with a hacksaw if there isn't enough
clearance to use a pipe cutter"/>
Existing plumbing may need to be cut with a hacksaw if there isn't enough clearance to use a pipe
cutter | Source
<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12373993_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.74691358024691"
alt="Use a file or de-burring tool to remove any sharp edges if you cut pipe with a hacksaw"
title="Use a file or de-burring tool to remove any sharp edges if you cut pipe with a hacksaw"/>
Use a file or de-burring tool to remove any sharp edges if you cut pipe with a hacksaw | Source

Bending Copper Pipe

There are several techniques for bending copper pipe. You can't just grasp the two ends and bend,
because the pipe will kink in the middle.

 Use sand to prevent kinking This is an old technique which uses sand to prevent the pipe
from kinking. The pipe is tightly packed with fine dry sand, and tightly plugged at the end with
kitchen towel or a rag. The pipe is then bent to the desired shape.

 Use a bending spring A bending spring can be used for making single bends in pipe. This
method is only suitable for bending reasonably long lengths of pipe so that the length of the
pipe can be used for leverage during bending. The spring is slid into the pipe so that it extends
beyond the bend point. If necessary, a string can be tied to its end so that it can be retrieved.
The pipe is then bent over the knee (just under your kneecap)
  Use a pipe benders This tool has long levers to aid bending and enables one or more bends
to be made in pipe. It also has several dies or guides to allow various diameters of pipe to be
bent.

<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12175009_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.49497487437186"

alt="Pipe benders suitable for 15 and 22 mm copper tube, available from the UK tool distributor,
Draper Ltd" title="Pipe benders suitable for 15 and 22 mm copper tube, available from the UK tool
distributor, Draper Ltd"/>
Pipe benders suitable for 15 and 22 mm copper tube, available from the UK tool distributor, Draper
Ltd | Source

<img src="https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/12374012_f520.jpg" data-ratio="0.56189710610932"

alt="Use a bending spring and bend pipe just under your knee cap" title="Use a bending spring and
bend pipe just under your knee cap"/>
Use a bending spring and bend pipe just under your knee cap | Source

How to Use a Compression Fitting

1. Measure the tubing to be cut and mark with a felt tipped marker. If a fitting needs to be inserted
into existing tubing (e.g. a T-joint for a branch off), a section of tubing must be removed.
Sometimes marks are provided on the outside of the fitting, indicating the location of the
shoulder inside the fitting which the tubing butts up against when inserted. This aids in working
out how much of the tubing needs to be removed.This needs to be reasonably accurate if
copper tubing is being used as it can be difficult to pull the two ends of the tubing apart to insert
the fitting if too short a section is removed, or difficult to pull the ptwo sections of tubing
together again if too much tubing is cut out. Temporarily remove any clips holding the tubing so
that the sections can be moved apart easier.

2. Cut the tubing to be joined to the correct length. Ideally use a pipe cutter which gives a square,
smooth edge. Alternatively use a junior hacksaw. Try to cut the tubing square, and file the cut
edges smooth.

3. Slide the compression nut over the end of the tubing followed by the olive ring.

4. If plastic pipe is being used, push an insert into the end of the pipe. This prevents the pipe from
being crushed by the olive as the compression nut is tightened.

5. Push the tubing as far as it will go into the fitting.

6. Tighten the compression nut until hand tight.

7. Mark the nut with a felt tipped marker.

8. You need 2 tools, one to to hold the fitting and the other to tig hten the compression nut. You
can use open ended wrenches, vice grips or water pump pliers. Make sure the tools are
properly sized and grip tightly so that they don't slip off while tightening. Watching the mark on
the nut, tighten it by 1/2 to 1 turn. If possible you can tighten by 1/2 turn, turn on the water
supply and wait for a few minutes see if the joint "weeps". If this is the case, try tightening
further. It's important to not over tighten as this can deform the olive, preventing it from sealing
properly and causing a leak. Knowing how much to tighten a nut is learned by experience and
as a rule of thumb, once the nut suddenly becomes difficult to turn, it is tight enough.
<img src="https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/12132050_f520.jpg" data-ratio="0.75" alt="Typical
compression fitting. This T-fitting allows a branch to be made in a pipe" title="Typical compression
fitting. This T-fitting allows a branch to be made in a pipe"/>
Typical compression fitting. This T-fitting allows a branch to be made in a pipe | Source
<img src="https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/12132098_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.71851851851852"
alt="Use an insert for plastic pipe" title="Use an insert for plastic pipe"/>
Use an insert for plastic pipe | Source

<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12132073_f520.jpg" data-ratio="0.75" alt="Fit the

compression nut onto the pipe...." title="Fit the compression nut onto the pipe...."/>
Fit the compression nut onto the pipe.... | Source
<img src="https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/12132070_f520.jpg" data-ratio="0.75" alt="....followed
by the olive ring" title="....followed by the olive ring"/>
....followed by the olive ring | Source
<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12132107_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.75" alt="Push the
pipe fully into the fitting" title="Push the pipe fully into the fitting"/>
Push the pipe fully into the fitting | Source

<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12132113_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.75" alt="Tighten the

compression nut by hand" title="Tighten the compression nut by hand"/>
Tighten the compression nut by hand | Source
<img src="https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/12132114_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.75" alt="Mark the
nut with a felt tipped marker" title="Mark the nut with a felt tipped marker"/>
Mark the nut with a felt tipped marker | Source
<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12132121_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.72975140336808"
alt="Tighten 1/2 to 1 turn with a wrench, Stilsons or water pump pliers. Hold the fitting als o to prevent
it turning" title="Tighten 1/2 to 1 turn with a wrench, Stilsons or water pump pliers. Hold the fitting
also to prevent it turning"/>
Tighten 1/2 to 1 turn with a wrench, Stilsons or water pump pliers. Hold the fitting also to prevent it
turning | Source

How to Use Push Fittings

These vary somewhat, but in general this is the procedure

1. Measure, mark and cut the pipe. In general you should avoid using a hacksaw as a square cut
on the end of the pipe is more critical. Use a proper pipe cutter suitable for copper or plastic
pipe. File off any burrs on the end of copper pipe.

2. If using plastic pipe, push an insert fully into the end of the pipe

3. Slide the pipe into the fitting until it will go no further. Pull back to ensure the teeth on the collet
insert in the fitting have gripped the pipe and it is secure.

4. Some fittings have a twist lock feature which prevents inadvertent release of the pipe if the
collet is accidentally pushed back against the fitting. If this is the case, twist the screw cap on
the fitting about half a turn. This further compresses the O-ring in the fitting and locks the teeth.

5. Fittings can be disassembled when new by turning the twist lock counter -clockwise, pushing
the collet back against the fitting body and pulling on the pipe. This retracts the collet teeth so
that the pipe can be removed. Some fittings require the use of a key to retract the collet.

The video below shows how to use Speedfit twist lock fittings. These are very convenient to use for
connecting both copper and plastic pipe.

How to Use a Speedfit Standard Twist and Lock Fitting

How to Use a Capillary Fitting With Copper Pipe

Capillary fittings require some skill in order to be assembled properly, however they are the
cheapest, neatest and strongest solution for joining copper pipe.
Copper pipe and capillary fittings are "sweated" together. This involves heating the pipe and fitting so
that solder melts and holds the joint together.

1. Mark and cut the pipe using a hacksaw or pipe cutter. Remove any burrs with a file.
 2. Clean the inside of the fitting and outside of the pipe with wire wool until both are shiny.

3. Apply flux to the inside of the fitting and outside of the pipe.

4. Insert the first pipe into the fitting until it goes no further. Insert remaining pipes into the fitting.
(All pipes should be soldered together rather than one at a time)

5. If a Yorkshire fitting is being used (which has an integral ring of solder in each port), heat all
around the fitting until a shiny ring of solder appears at the edge of the entry port on the fitting.
Solder free fittings should be heated and solder wire applied to the edge of the entry port so
that it flows into the gap between the fitting and pipe. (make sure it is lead free solder if the the
water is for potable (drinking) use)

Warning: Be careful when using a blowtorch and take suitable precautions to avoid starting a
fire. Adjacent plastic plumbing and wiring can easily be melted. Fireproof mats are available
for placing behind fittings during heating. A ceramic tile can also give some protection, but
avoid directing the flame directly on it as it can shatter

<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12133377_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.56172839506173"

alt="Capillary fitting. Notice the integral ring of solder" title="Capillary fitting. Notice the integral ring
of solder"/>
Capillary fitting. Notice the integral ring of solder | Source
<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12133391_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.61587982832618"
alt="Clean the pipe and inside of the fitting with wire wool and coat with flux" title="Clean the pipe
and inside of the fitting with wire wool and coat with flux"/>
Clean the pipe and inside of the fitting with wire wool and coat with f lux | Source

<img src="https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/12132932_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.75" alt="Heat the

fitting with a blowtorch until a ring of solder appears. Fittings without an integral ring of solder must
be &quot;fed&quot; with solder wire" title="Heat the fitting with a blowtorch until a ring of solder
appears. Fittings without an integral ring of solder must be &quot;fed&quot; with solder wire"/>
Heat the fitting with a blowtorch until a ring of solder appears. Fittings without an integral ri ng of
solder must be "fed" with solder wire | Source

How to Use Screwed Plumbing Fittings

Steel pipe with a screwed end, normally has a tapered male thread which mates with a female
thread on the other fitting. PTFE plumbing tape or other proprietary threa d sealing cord wrapped
around the threads, increases lubrication and enables the male thread to be screwed in tighter to
produce a watertight seal. The secondary benefit of the tape is to fill the gap between the female and
male thread, helping to seal the joint. You can also smear pipe dope (jointing compound) over the
tape on the joint to improve sealing in case the tape catches on the threads and rolls around as the
fitting is being screwed into place. Traditionally hemp and jointing compound (Boss White , Plumbers
Mait) were used for sealing joints. For some applications, if temperature is excessive, PTFE tape
may be unsuitable and jointing compound can be used.
Sometimes both male and female threads are parallel in which case they are supposed to be seal ed
using a fiber washer or O-ring which is compressed by a flange on the fitting. This is often the case
with a spigot (outside tap) or a hot water tank. A tapered fitting would possibly result in the fitting
tightening suddenly with the spigot at the wrong angle. A washer however allows more leeway as
regards tightening the fitting to the correct angle

1. Hold the fitting or pipe and starting at the inner end of the threads, wrap PTFE tape tightly and
evenly clockwise and upwards in a helical fashion until all but the last thread is covered.
Leaving the first thread bare makes it easier to get the thread started during assembling of
joints.

2. Continue to wind the thread clockwise and downwards to where you started.

3. Wind a third layer onto the fitting

4. Screw the male thread into the female union

There is a certain degree of trial and error when winding tape onto fittings. If they are made to a tight
tolerance, only a few layers of tape may be needed. Sometimes if fittings are a loose fit, extra tape
may be needed (4, 5 or 6 turns).
<img src="https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/12133430_f520.jpg" data -ratio="1.1001964636542"
alt="This Compression T-fitting has a 1/2 inch female screw thread. The lower image shows a 1/2
inch to 1/4 inch reduction bushing which could be used for connecting a pressure gage for instance"
title="This Compression T-fitting has a 1/2 inch female screw thread. The lower image shows a 1/2
inch to 1/4 inch reduction bushing which could be used for connecting a pressure gage for
instance"/>
This Compression T-fitting has a 1/2 inch female screw thread. The lower image shows a 1/2 inch to
1/4 inch reduction bushing which could be used for connecting a pressure gage for instance
<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12133413_f520.jpg" da ta-ratio="0.56172839506173"
alt="Wind the tape clockwise, neatly and tightly around the threads. About 3 layers should suffice"
title="Wind the tape clockwise, neatly and tightly around the threads. About 3 layers should suffice"/>
Wind the tape clockwise, neatly and tightly around the threads. About 3 layers should suffice |
Source

<img src="https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/12133449_f520.jpg" data -ratio="0.56172839506173"

alt="Screw the bushing into the fitting and tighten with a wrench" title="Screw t he bushing into the
fitting and tighten with a wrench"/>
Screw the bushing into the fitting and tighten with a wrench | Source

Wrapping Thread Seal Tape