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Sewing Machine Operations Mannual PDF
Sewing Machine Operations Mannual PDF
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CONTENTS
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A. Thread the Machine and Draw up the Bobbin Thread
B. Threading the bobbin case
C. Bobbin winding
3. FABRIC EXERCISES 66 To 87
A. Sewing 6”x 6” Sewing off the material
B. Sewing 6”x 6” Staying Within Material
C. Sewing 6”x 6” back tack
D. Sew Over 3 Sides 6”x 12”
E. 12 X 6 Top stitch
F. Backtack 6”x 1`2”
G. Baste 6” X 6” in Chain
CHAPTER - V 88 To 90
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZE CHART
1. CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS
2. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR CHILDREN
3. STANDARD MEASUREMENT FOR TEENAGERS
CHAPTER - VI 91 To 100
MACHINE MAINTAINANCE & SAFETY PRECATIONS
A. Safety- Rules
B. Important safety instructions
C. Machine adjustments and control
CHAPTER - VII 101 To 112
NEEDLE
1. SELECTION OF NEEDLE
2. PART OF THE MACHINE NEEDLS
3. STANDARD NEEDLES
4. TYPE OF NEEDLE AND THEIR USE
5. NEEDLE SIZE AND RELEVANCE OF TYPE OF THE MATERIAL TO BE STICHED
CHAPTER - VIII 113 To 116
SEWING THREAD AND SELECTION CRITERIA
CHAPTER - IX 117 To 127
TYPES OF STITCHES AND SEAM
1. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS
2. SEAM TYPES AND CLASSIFICATIONS
3. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MEN`S SHIRT
4. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MENS`S TROUSER
5. SEAMS & STITCHES OF DENIM TROUSER
6. SEAMS & STITCHES OF POLO T - SHIRT
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7. SEAMS & STITCHES OF ROUND NECK T – SHIRT
CHAPTER - X 128 To 132
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING DEFECTS & REMIDIES
1. DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH MACHINE
2. BUTTON HOLING SEWING MACHINE
3. BUTTON STITCH MACHINE
4. OVER LOCK MACHINE
CHAPTER - XI - GARMENT MANUFACTURING 133 To 226
PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PREPARATION OF A SHIRT
1. Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts
2. Attaching one piece to other using folder
3. Placket facing attach using folder
4. Hemming operations using folder
5. Square pocket attach
6. Rounded bottom pocket attach
7. Bottom triangle pocket attach
8. Diamond pocket attach
9. Long & Short seams with needle down stoppages at corners
10. Collar run stitch operation
11. Top stitch along edges
12. Hem along the contour
13. Mock neck band hem
14. Sewing with template
15. Mock pick stitching
16. Top stitch handling tree piles
17. Mock centre stitch collar
18. Mock topstitch collar
19. Cuff hem
20. Mock run stitch cuffs
21. Binding operation
22. Binding operation using a folder
23. Mock continuous slv placket attach using a folder
24. Mock split edge placket attach operation using folder
25. Attach two plies using folder
26. Pleats
27. Mock yoke attach with folder
28. Shoulder attach without folder
29. Topstitch shoulder
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30. Shoulder attach using folder
31. Sew contour fabric to straight fabric
32. Mock collar attach
33. Binding operations
34. Mock collar finish
35. Lap seam along contour
36. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap Seam)
37. Lap seam along contour using folder
38. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap seam) with folder
39. Topstitch along contour over lap seam
40. Topstitch along contour over lap seam using folder
41. Topstitch sleeve attach
42. Topstitch sleeve attach using folder
43. Hemming long contours (Curved)
44. Long straight hemming
45. Hemming long contours (Curved) using folder
46. Long straight hemming using folder
CHAPTER – XII 227 To 241
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING ATTACHMENTS AND USE ON MACHINE
1. Various Collar Operations
2. Yoking and Shoulder Joining:
3. Pocket Hemming
4. Cuff Hemming - Short Sleeve
5. Tail Hemming
6. Button Stay Hemming
7. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve
8. Setting Sleeve Plackets
9. Closing Side Seams
10. Sleeve Setting
11. Attach Center Placket
12. Pleat Gauge
CHAPTER – XII
MONTHLY SCHEDULE FOR SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR TRAINING PROGRAMME 242 To 243
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CHAPTER - I
INTRODUCTION
Apparel and Textile industry in India is the largest employer after agriculture. It
provides direct employment to 35 million people and another 56 million are engaged in
related activities. Around 14% of industrial production of the country is contributed by the
sector. Indeed the apparel sector place a major role in Indian economy and also in foreign
exchange earnings. Apparel exports contribute approximately 9% in India’s total exports
earnings and accounts for about 4% of world trade in textiles and apparels. It is pertinent to
mention that the apparel sector predominantly consist of Small and Medium Enterprises
(SMEs). With the abolition of quota regime under WTO and opening of markets, there is
competition from many countries to retain the existing global market share and also look for
new markets. India has set a target under 11th plan to earn $ 50 billion through exports of
textiles and apparels. To reach the target Indian apparel industry has to work on many
fronts to be successful in a totally competitive international environment particularly
focusing on factors like development of skilled human resource, quality and productivity,
design development and product diversification and improving lead time and pricing,
effective marketing management.
Indian Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) alone cannot attain competitiveness
without the support of likeminded international partners like German Technical Co
operation (GTZ) to enhance the competitiveness of SMEs. Indeed GTZ is committed under
SME Financing and Development Project for the development of apparel sector and
identified it as the priority sector for intervention.
Against the back ground the GTZ has undertaken the task of MSMEs competency
building through business development services in Readymade garments cluster at
Hyderabad with the support of Orient Craft Fashion Institute of Technology (OCFIT)
particularly in preparing manual for sewing machine operators.
Indeed this manual is prepared based on best international sewing practices world
over with a focus on exports of readymade garments from India through SMEs.
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CHAPTER - II
SEWING MACHINE
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1. INVENTION OF THE SEWING MACHINE
The democratization of fashion began with the invention of the sewing machine, which
turned a handicraft into an industry. The sewing machine made the mass production of clothing
possible. In 1829, a French tailor named Thimmonier patented a wooden chain-stitch sewing
machine, but all existing models were destroyed by rioting tailors who feared for their jobs. Walter
Hunt, an American, developed a sewing machine in 1832 but failed to patent it. Thus, the man who
is usually credited with its invention is Elias Howe, who patented his in 1846. All of Howe’s machines
were run by hand.
In 1859, Isaac Singer, whose name has become a household word because of his mass
production of the sewing machine. He developed the foot treadle, an improvement that left the
hands free to guide the fabric, and mass-produced these machines. Singer spent $1 million a year on
sales promotion and, by 1867, was producing a thousand machines per day (Electrically powered
models were not available until 1921). To save time and to keep control over production,
entrepreneurs brought workers and machinery together in factories. This caused many people in
search of work to move to the cities where the factories were located.
In 1849, when the Gold Rush attracted thousands of men in California in search of gold, a 20-
year old Bavarian immigrant by the name of Levi Strauss opened a dry goods store in San Francisco.
In 1873 he began to manufacture long-wearing pants with riveted pockets, using a tough cotton
fabric called serge de Nimes. (Loomed in Nimes, France), later shortened to denim. They are an item
of wearing apparel that has remained basically the same for nearly 150 years.
Another early use for sewing machines was to make Civil War uniforms. The Union army
recorded the chest an height measurements of more than a million soldiers to come up with the first
standardization of sizes. After the war, sewing machines and uniform sizing promoted the mass
production of everyday men’s wear.
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2. HISTORY OF SEWING MACHINE
Historians of the early days of the sewing machine can argue for hours over the simple
matter of who invented what is, in many ways, one of the most important machines ever
devised.
The story really starts in 1755 in London when a German immigrant, Charles Wiesenthal,
took out a patent for a needle to be used for mechanical sewing. There was no mention of a
machine to go with it, and another 34 years were to pass before Englishman Thomas Saint
invented what is generally considered to be the first real sewing machine.
In 1790 the cabinet maker patented a machine with which an awl made a hole in leather
and then allowed a needle to pass through. Critics of Saint's claim to fame point out that
quite possibly Saint only patented an idea and that most likely the machine was never built.
It is known that when an attempt was made in the 1880s to produce a machine from Saint's
drawings it would not work without considerable modification.
The story then moves to Germany where, in around 1810, inventor Balthasar Krems
developed a machine for sewing caps. No exact dates can be given for the Krems models as
no patents were taken out.
An Austrian tailor Josef Madersperger produced a series of machines during the early years
of the 19th century and received a patent in 1814. He was still working on the invention in
1839, aided by grants from the Austrian government, but he failed to get all the elements
together successfully in one machine and eventually died a pauper. Two more inventions
were patented in 1804, one in France to a Thomas Stone and a James Henderson -- a
machine which attempted to emulate hand sewing -- and another to a Scott John Duncan
for an embroidery machine using a number of needles. Nothing is known of the fate of
either invention.
America's first real claim to fame came in 1818 when a Vermont churchman John Adams
Doge and his partner John Knowles produced a device which, although making a reasonable
stitch, could only sew a very short length of material before laborious re-setting up was
necessary.
One of the more reasonable claimants for inventor of the sewing machine must be
Barthelme Thimmonier who, in 1830, was granted a patent by the French government. He
used a barbed needle for his machine which was built almost entirely of wood. It is said that
he originally designed the machine to do embroidery, but then saw its potential as a sewing
machine.
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Unlike any others who went before him, he was able to convince the authorities of the
usefulness of his invention and he was eventually given a contract to build a batch of
machines and use them to sew uniforms for the French army. In less than 10 years after the
granting of his patent Thimmonier had a factory running with 80 machines, but then ran
into trouble from Parisian tailors. They feared that, were his machines successful, they
would soon take over from hand sewing, putting the craftsmen tailors out of work.
Late one night a group of tailors stormed the factory, destroying every machine, and causing
Thimmonier to flee for his life. With a new partner he started again, produced a vastly-
improved machine and looked set to go into full-scale production; but the tailors attacked
again. With France in the grip of revolution, Thimmonier could expect little help from the
police or army and fled to England with the one machine he was able to salvage.
He certainly produced the first practical sewing machine, was the first man to offer
machines for sale on a commercial basis and ran the first garment factory. For all that, he
died in the poor house in 1857.
In America a quaker Walter Hunt invented, in 1833, the first machine which did not try to
emulate hand sewing. It made a lock stitch using two spools of thread and incorporated an
eye-pointed needle as used today. But again it was unsuccessful for it could only produce
short, straight, seams.
Nine years later Hunt's countryman, John Greenough, produced a working machine in which
the needle passed completely through the cloth. Although a model was made and exhibited
in the hope of raising capital for its manufacture, there were no takers.
Perhaps all the essentials of a modern machine came together in early 1844 when
Englishman John Fisher invented a machine which although designed for the production of
lace, was essentially a working sewing machine. Probably because of miss-filing at the
patent office, this invention was overlooked during the long legal arguments between Singer
and Howe as to the origins of the sewing machine.
Despite a further flurry of minor inventions in the 1840s, most Americans will claim that the
sewing machine was invented by Massachusetts farmer Elias Howe who completed his first
prototype in 1844 just a short time after Fisher.
A year later it was patented and Howe set about trying to interest the tailoring trade in his
invention. He even arranged a competition with his machine set against the finest hand
sewers in America. The machine won hands down but the world wasn't ready for
mechanized sewing and, despite months of demonstrations, he had still not made a single
sale.
Desperately in debt Howe sent his brother Amasa to England with the machine in the hope
that it would receive more interest on the other side of the Atlantic. Amasa could find only
one backer, a corset maker William Thomas, who eventually bought the rights to the
invention and arranged for Elias to come to London to further develop the machine.
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The two did not work well together, each accusing the other of failing to honor agreements
and eventually Elias, now almost penniless, returned to America. When he arrived home he
found that the sewing machine had finally caught on and that dozens of manufacturers,
including Singer, were busy manufacturing machines -- all of which contravened the Howe
patents.
A long series of law suits followed and were only settled when the big companies, including
Wheeler & Wilson and Grover & Baker, joined together, pooled their patents, and fought as
a unit to protect their monopoly.
Singer did not invent any notable sewing-machine advances, but he did pioneer the hire-
purchase system and aggressive sales tactics.
So the argument can go on about just who invented the sewing machine and it is unlikely
that there will ever be agreement. What is clear, however, is that without the work of those
long-dead pioneers, the dream of mechanized sewing would never have been realized.
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3. PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE:
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4. MACHINE TERMINOLOGY
Bed The working surface of the machine under winch is located the
mechanism at handles the lower thread. On a flat bed machine, the bed
rests In the cut-out of the table.
Belt (motor belt or machine The circular strap that transmits motion from the pulley to the hand
belt) wheel, allowing the machine to operate.
Bobbin Mechanism The parts - bobbin, bobbin case, and bobbin tension spring - that control
the lower thread and Its tension.
Bobbin winder The part that fills another bobbin while the machine is stitching.
check spring (tension spring or A small wire spring behind or at the top of the tension discs. It provides
take-up spring) a. small amount of tension on the needle thread and acts as a shock
absorber. On some machines, the check spring is mounted separately.
Faceplate The cover on the left side of the bead that covers the needle bar and the
presser bar.
feed dogs (feed dog, feeder or The toothed mechanism beneath the presser foot that moves fabric
feed) fly wheel) forward and backward.
Fittings The parts - presser foot, feed dogs, and throat plate - that control the
cloth during stitching.
Hand wheel (balance or The part that controls the motion of the machine manually and/or
flywheel) electrically.
Head The part of the machine above the table, containing the stitching
mechanism.
Hook(rotary hook or machine A rotating device that hooks the needle thread to carry it around the
hook) bobbin and form the “lock” on the lockstitch.
Knee Lift (Knee Lifter or knee A lever mounted at the right under the sewing table to lift and lower the
press) presser foot with the right knee.
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Needle The part that penetrates the fabric. It carries the thread to the hook or
shuttle and up again to make the stitch.
Needle bar A vertical bar that holds one or more needles and moves the needle up
and down.
Needle screw (needle bar clamp) The screw that holds the needle in the needle bar.
Oil gauge The part that Indicates the amount of oil in self-oiling machines.
Pan (machine pan) The metal pan. under the head that catches oil, lint and metal shards.
On self-lubricating machines, it holds the oil.
Presser bar lifter A lever at the back of presser bar to raise and lower the presser foot by
hand. It is used to raise the presser foot when winding a bobbin and
when not stitching.(Its use is discouraged in industrial sewing because it
wastes time and energy).
Presser foot A device that holds the fabric in place for stitching.
Pressure regulator Control that regulates the amount of pressure on the (pressure dial)
presser foot.
Pretension A simple tension disc used to regulate the thread so that it will feed into
the tension assembly evenly.
Pulley The wheel attached to the motor. It transmits motion from the motor to
the hand wheel by means of a leather belt.
Rotary hook assembly The part that holds the bobbin case.
Shuttle An oscillating device that carries the needle thread around the bobbin
and forms the “lock” on the lockstitch.
Slack thread regulator A metal hook or bar near the tension discs.
Slide plate (slide or bed slide) A removable cover at the left of the machine bed that bed allows access
to the lower mechanism.
Sole (shoe or slipper) The bottom part of the presser foot that contracts the cloth.
Stitch hole (needle hole) The hole in the throat plate. The needle carries the thread into the hole
so that it can interlock with the bobbin thread.
Switch (power switch) A key or button that turns the machine on and off.
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Table The cabinet upon which the bead rests, it generally has a drawer on the
left side.
Take-up lever The part that first loosens the top thread during the stitch formation,
then removes any slack to set or lock the stitch.
Take-up lever guard A piece of metal in front of the thread take-up lever.
Tension discs Two concave discs that control the delivery of the upper thread from
the spool to the needle.
Thread guides (thread eyelets) The parts that guide the thread from the thread cone (thread eyelets) to
the needle. They smooth the thread and protect it from abrasion.
Thread retainer (pretension) A three-hole guide that applies a small amount of tension on the thread
so it win flow into the tension discs uniformly.
Throat plate The smooth surface directly under the presser foot that includes the
stitch hole and surrounds the feed dog. It protects the lower mechanism
from a build-up of excess lint.
Toes (Prongs) The front end of the presser foot, or the part that faces the oncoming
cloth. It is frequently upturned. On feet such as the zipper foot, cording
foot, and shirring foot, there is only one toe.
Treadle (foot treadle) A metal platform on which the feet rest.(Note: In case of an accident,
the clutch control releases the hand wheel so that it can be turned).
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5. MODERN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
Imperial multi-needle pleat gauges for tuxedo front shirts - both men's
and ladies'.
Several pleat types are available; including exposed and covered types
illustrated above.
Exact finish size and samples are required. Please Submit Samples with
Order.
Both Union Special 54400 and Imperial 52 Class machines also available.
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B. OVERLOCK MACHINE
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C. BARTACK SEWING MACHINE
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D. BUTTON SEWING MACHINE
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E. BUTTON HOLE MACHINE
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F. FEED OF THE ARM
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6. MEASURING TOOLS
Paper Scissors
Fabric Scissors
Tracing Wheel
Trimmer
Measuring Scale
Pencil & Eraser
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CHAPTER-III
SELECTION CRITERIA FOR SMO TRAINEES
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The Candidate for the SMO Training Programme must have the minimum
qualification of 8th Standard.
The Peg Board Test is conducted to know the hand movement of the candidate. The Purdue
Pegboard has been used extensively for various applications. It has two types of activity:
one measures gross movements of the hands, fingers, and arms, and the other measures
assembly or fingertip dexterity.
The Peg Board Test consists of a rectangular board that holds cylindrical pegs. The pegs are
approximately two inch (2.5 cm) in height, and are colored red on one side, black on the
other. Two tests were chosen for this research. The peg board test requires subjects to
transfer the pegs from one hole in the tray to another. The peg board test requires subjects
to pick up a peg, transfer it to the other hand while turning it over, and replace it with the
opposite side facing up.
The operator will be given 80 sec of time to complete it. The operator has to complete the
exercises given in the given span of period.
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2. COLOR BLINDNESS TEST
The colour blindness test used test to check color vision deficiencies. There are different
sets available which are often used for pilot, police officer and other job recruitments,
where perfect colour vision is a precondition.
This is a test plate in which everyone should see a "12".
This plate is designed to separate the type of color defectives and the level to which they
are observed. Most will see the number "26" clearly while some will only see a "2" or a "6"
or no numerals at all.
Can you trace a line from one "X" to the other? Someone with normal color vision will trace
an orange/brown purple line and those with a slight deficiency will follow a different path.
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Some of the Examples are:
The operator will be shown 10 figures. Each carries 5 sec of time. The operator must be able
to recognize the Letter or Number which is in the Figure in the given span of time.
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3. VISUAL DEXTERITY TEST
Example:
8
5
3
2
7
1
6
9
4
10
Practice:
Visual Dexterity test is the crucial one which plays major role in knowing the Eye
Coordination of the operator.
Eye coordination is a crucial skill involving how effective we are at translating what our eyes
see into appropriate physical responses, such as anticipating the motion of a line in its way
so that we could find out the exact destiny of the line. The operator will be given two
exercises; each carries 30 sec of time to complete it. The operator has to complete the
exercises given in the given span of period.
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CHAPTER-IV
TRAINING OF SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS
1. PAPER EXERCISES
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A. Pedal Control at Maximum Velocity
START
STOP
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Machine: SNLS Goal: Exercise Number :
Methodology:
Security
use glasses.
Quality
column limits
Ergonomics
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chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Waste
Abilities developed
Pedal control
Necessary material
Paper exercise #1
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B. Precise stops at maximum speed
MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE – 2 DURATION: 6 SECS
START
STOP
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Machine: SNLS Goal: 6 Seconds Exercise Number :
Methodology:
Security
use glasses.
Quality
column limits
Ergonomics
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chair and Machine at a comfortable height.
Waste
Abilities developed
Pedal control
Necessary material
Paper exercise #2
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C. Straight stitches at maximum velocity
START
STOP
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Machine: SNLS Goal : 10 Seconds Exercise Number :
Methodology:
Security
Use glasses.
Quality
Boundaries.
Ergonomics
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Back rest facing forward.
Waste
Abilities developed
Exact Stops
Straight stitches at maximum velocity centered at
118” margin.
Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot.
Necessary material
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D. Change of Direction with Needle Down
START
STOP
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Machine: SNLS Goal: 10 Seconds Exercise Number :
Starting Position:
Methodology:
SECURITY
use glasses. -]
QUALITY
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square
limits.
ERGONOMICS
WASTE
ABILITIES DEVELOPED
Exact Stops
Straight stitches at maximum velocity.
Use of push button to control machines foot.
NECESSARY MATERIALS
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E. Sewing Curve with One Hand
START
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Machine: SNLS Goal: 6 seconds Exercise Number :
both feet on the pedal the right knee against the knee lift.
Methodology:
Security:
Use glasses.
Quality:
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Ergonomics:
Waste:
Abilities Developed:
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F. Sewing in Circles
START STOP
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Machine: SNLS Goal: 14 seconds Exercise Number :
Methodology:
Security
Use glasses.
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 45
Back rest facing forward.
Waste
Abilities developed
Paper exercise # 6
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G. Judging changes of direction
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Machine: SNLS Goal: 20 Exercise Number :
Seconds
Exercise : Judging changes of direction. Paper exercise # 7
Starting Position: The apprentice should sit facing the sewing Illustration:
machine with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Paper in starting position. No thread in machine.
Methodology:
Security
use glasses. -]
Quality
limits.
Ergonomics
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Both feet on pedal
Waste
Abilities developed
Exact Stops
Straight stitches at maximum velocity.
Use of push button to control machines foot.
Necessary material
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H. Sewing curves
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Machine: SNLS Goal: 20 Seconds Exercise Number :
Methodology:
Security
Use glasses.
Quality
Ergonomics
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Waste
Abilities developed
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I. O / L Sewing straight line
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Machine: O/L Goal: 10 Seconds Exercise Number :
Methodology:
Security
Use glasses.
Quality
Boundaries.
Ergonomics
Page | 54
Back rest facing forward.
Waste
Abilities developed
Exact Stops
Straight stitches at maximum velocity centered at
118” margin.
Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot.
Necessary material
O / L without thread
Paper exercise #9
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J. O / L Exact stop
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Machine: O/L Goal: 20 Seconds Exercise Number :
Methodology:
Security
Use glasses.
Quality
Boundaries.
Ergonomics
Page | 57
Waste
Abilities developed
Exact Stops
Straight stitches at maximum velocity centered
at 118” margin.
Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot.
Necessary material
O / L without thread
Paper exercise #9
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K. Sewing curves
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Machine: SNLS Goal: 20 Seconds Exercise Number :
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with left
feet on the pedal and the right feet on the lifter. Paper in
starting position. No thread in machine.
Methodology:
Security
Use glasses.
Quality
Boundaries.
Ergonomics
Page | 60
Waste
Abilities developed
Exact Stops
Straight stitches at maximum velocity centered at
118” margin.
Use of knee lift to elevate machine foot.
Necessary material
O / L without thread
Paper exercise #8
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2. THREADING OF MACHINE (Single needle lock stitch machine)
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A. Thread the Machine and Draw up the Bobbin Thread
1. Turn the machine off and remove your feet from the treadle. If there is no needle in the
machine, run the machine out. Then insert a new needle. Check to be sure there is no lint or
dust between the tensions discs or in the thread guide.
3. Place the thread on the thread stand. Then pass the thread over the guide at the top of the
thread stand and through the hole in the spool pin(s).
4. Guide the thread into the right (or top) hole of the needle-thread retainer. Then, guide it
through the center hole and, finally the bottom (or left) hole.
5. Guide the thread between the tension discs. Pull it into the check spring and under the slack
thread retainer or vertical bar.
6. Guide the thread from right to left into the eye of the take-up lever.
7. Guide the thread through the remaining guides. The last thread guide is located directly
above the long groove on the needle.
8. Trim the thread end as needed and thread it into the eye of the needle from left to right.
Note: The thread always threads from the long eye or groove on one side of the needle to
the short eye on the other
9. Pull the thread end about 3” (15cm) and hold the thread loosely in your left band.
10. Release the brake and turn the hand wheel so that the needle moves down and up again to
catch the bobbin thread. If the thread doesn’t come up, check the machine threading.
Remove the bobbin case, rethread, and insert again
Note: If you continue to turn the hand wheel, you may create a thread jam.
11. Pull the needle thread taut to bring the bobbin thread up through the needle hole.
12. Pull both threads between the prongs or toes of the foot, and then under the presser foot to
the back of the machine leaving a 5” (15cm) tail.
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B. Threading the bobbin case
Place the bobbin in the case taking care of the winding direction of the thread.(The
bobbin should turn in the direction of arrow B when the thread is pulled in the
direction of arrow A)
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C. Bobbin winding
1) Route the thread in the order of A, B, and C, and then wind it round the bobbin several times.
2) Set bobbin presser 1 down to make the winder come in contact with the belt.
3) Adjust adjustment screw 2 of the amount of bobbin thread to be wound round the bobbin so that
the
bobbin is wound with thread about 80%.Turn the adjustment screw 2 clockwise to increase the
bobbin
thread amount or counterclockwise to decrease it.
4) If thread is wound unevenly, move winder tension adjust base 3 to the right or left until it is
correctly
positioned.
5) The moment the bobbin has been wound up, the bobbin presser is released, and the bobbin
winder will
stop automatically.
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3. FABRIC EXERCISES
TRAINING OF SEWING MACHINE OPERATORS
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A. Sewing 6”x 6” Sewing off the material
6”
6” X 6”
6”
Seam Type
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Machine: SNLS Goal:15 Seconds Exercise Number :
Both feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift.
Place material close to the apprentice.
Methodology:
The needle.
Quality
Ergonomics
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forward.
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 thread cone
2 bobbins.
6” x 6” fabric
Scissors
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B. Sewing 6”x 6” Staying Within Material
MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: SEW 6” X 6”, STAYING WITH IN DURATION: 18 SECS
6
6” X 6”
6”
Seam Type
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Machine: SNLS Goal: 18 Seconds Exercise Number :
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift, Place
fabric close to the apprentice.
Methodology:
the needle.
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 71
Waste
Abilities Developed
SNLS
2 thread cone
2 bobbins.
6” x 6” fabric
Scissors
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C. Sewing 6 x 6 back tack
MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: SEW 6” X 6”, BACKTACK DURATION: 21 SECS
6”
6”
Seam Type
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Machine: SNLS Goal: 12 Seconds Exercise Number :
Sit straight with two feet on the treadle. Keep the trimmer so
as to access easily.
Methodology:
Place the fabric under the needle! 1/4” from its top &
1/4” from its side. Start sewing, with back tack
When sewing the 4th side! Stop where the stitch has
started & back tack (3 to 4 stitches).
Security
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
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Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread cone
2 Bobbins
6” x 6” fabric
scissors
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D. Sew Over 3 Sides 6”x 12”
6”
12”
Seam Type
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Machine: SNLS Goal:14 Seconds Exercise Number :
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift, Place
fabric close to the operator.
Methodology:
the needle.
Quality
Ergonomics
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Waste
Abilities Developed
Pedal control.
Consistency in margins.
Exact stops.
Joining and handling of large pieces
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 thread cone
2 bobbins.
6” x 6” fabric
Scissors
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E. 12 X 6 Top stitch
MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: 6” X 12” TOP STITCH DURATION: 14 SECS
6”
12”
Seam Type
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Machine: SNLS Goal: 14 Seconds Exercise Number :
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Alignment of parts;
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Necessary Materials
12x12 Fabric
Trimmer.
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F. Backtack 6”x 1`2”
MACHINE: SNLS EXERCISE: BACKTACK
6” 12” X 12” DURATION: 20SECS
12”
Seam Type
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Machine: SNLS Goal: 15 Seconds Exercise Number :
Place the fabric on your lap, pick up using both hands, let
Methodology:
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Page | 83
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
Thread
Bobbin
12” x 6” fabric
Scissors
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G. Baste 6” X 6” in Chain
5 1/2 ”
5”
Seam Type
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Machine: SNLS Goal: 30 Seconds Exercise Number :
The apprentice should sit facing the sewing machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift, Place
fabric close to the operator.
Methodology:
Security
The needle.
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Page | 86
Abilities Developed
• Exact stops.
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread cone
2 Bobbins
6” x 6” fabric
Scissors
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CHAPTER - V
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1. CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS
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28 Upper Thigh 19 1/2 20 1/4 21 22 23 24 25 ¼
Mid Thigh 17 17 1/2 18 18 3/4 19 1/2 20 1/4 21 ¼
29 Knee 13 13 1/2 14 14 1/2 15 15 1/2 16
30 Calf 11 11 1/2 12 12 1/2 13 13 1/2 14
31 Ankle 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 10 1/4 10 1/2 10 3/4 11
AGE
12-13YEARS 14-15 YEARS 16-17 YEARS 18-19 YEARS
GROUP
CENTER
12 1/2'' 13'' 13 1/2'' 14''
BACK
WAIST
12 1/2'' 13 1/2'' 14 1/2'' 15''
LENGTH
SLEEVE
16 1/2'' 17'' 17 1/2'' 18''
LENGTH
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CHAPTER - VI
MACHINE MAINTAINANCE & SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
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A. Safety- Rules
Safety is important to everyone and it is your responsibility to maintain a safe working place.
To maintain a safe environment, learn these safety rules and practice them at all times.
Report a breakage to a tool or machine to the instructor. If the equipment does not operate
properly, notify the instructor immediately.
Wipe up any oil specified on the floor immediately to prevent anyone from slipping.
Always inspect the machine before starting to work. Be sure it is clean and threaded
correctly, with no loose threads on the pulley belt and all guards in place.
Make only adjustments you have been trained to perform. Otherwise, as the instructor.
When sewing on a power machine, wear low shoes and close-fitting clothing. Avoid loose
fitting sleeves, sweaters, jewelry, ties, and ribbons when operating the machine. If your hair
is long, tie it back.
Always practice proper posture to reduce fatigue, help prevent accidents and increase
efficiency. If possible, adjust the chair height 5) that your feet rest flat on the floor.
Keep your feet off the treadle when you are setting or threading the needle.
Turn the motor off before cleaning, Oiling or adjusting the machine.
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Turn the motor off before removing or replacing the pulley belt and run the machine out.
Waft until all motion has stopped.
When unplugging the machine, hold onto the plug, not the cord.
Do not use your hand to stop and start the hand wheel.
Before operating the machine, be sure the needle is properly set and the bobbin is properly
placed.
When operating the machine, keep your attention on your work and hands.
When operating the machine, keep your hands at a safe distance from the needle.
When operating the machine, keep your hands, scissors, and other sharp objects away from
the belt.
Keep the machine and work station clean with an tools in the side drawer.
When the machine is not in use, lower the foot and needle.
Three-way plugs are a safety feature on the machines. Do not cut off the ground prong.
Know the location of the main power switch, outlets, and fuses in case of an emergency.
Always place the iron on the iron pad to avoid scorching the ironing board cover.
Always place the industrial iron flat on the iron pad to avoid knocking it over.
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When trimming or cutting, put all trimmings in the wastebasket.
Scissors should be handed to another person with the handles toward the person.
Putting sewing systems into operation is prohibited until it has been ascertained that the sewing
systems in which these sewing machines will be built into, have conformed with the safety
regulations in your country.
Technical service for those sewing systems is also prohibited.
Observe the basic safety measures, including, but not limited to the following ones,
whenever you use the machine.
Read all the instructions, including, but not limited to this Instruction Manual before you use
the machine.
In addition, keep this Instruction Manual so that you may read it at anytime when necessary.
Use the machine after it has been ascertained that it conforms with safety rules/standards
valid in your Country.
All safety devices must be in position when the machine is ready for work or in operation.
The operation without the specified safety devices is not allowed.
This machine shall be operated by appropriately-trained operators.
For your personal protection, we recommend that you wear safety glasses.
For the following, turn off the power switch or disconnect the power plug of the machine
from the receptacle.
For threading needle(s), looper, spreader etc. and replacing bobbin.
For replacing part(s) of needle, presser foot, throat plate, looper, spreader, feed dog, needle
guard, folder, cloth guide etc.
For repair work.
When leaving the working place or when the working place is unattended.
When using clutch motors without applying brake, it has to be waited until the motor
stopped totally.
If you should allow oil, grease, etc. used with the machine and devices to come in contact
with your eyes or
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skin or swallow any of such liquid by mistake, immediately wash the contacted areas and
consult a medical doctor.
Tampering with the live parts and devices, regardless of whether the machine is powered, is
prohibited.
Repair, remodeling and adjustment works must only be done by appropriately trained
technicians or
General maintenance and inspection works have to be done by appropriately trained
personnel.
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C. Machine adjustments and control
The stitch length regulator controls the distance that the feed dogs move the material to the
back of the machine to make a single stitch. On newer machines, the stitch length regulator is often
a large knob or a lever on the front of the machine, making It easy to regulate. On older machines
however, the stitch length regulator is more difficult to locate and reset and ft rarely has a guide
indicating the setting.
On most newer machines, the length of each stitch is Indicated In millimeters (mm). On
other machines, the number of stitches per inch(SPI) is Indicated. This latter method is easier to use
when adjusting the stitch length regulator.
These general directions can be used for most machines, however, when a machine manual
is available, ft is always wise to review the directions in it.
1. Begin with the power switch on arid the machine unthreaded. Place a piece of paper under
the foot and stitch a straight line about 3” long.
2. Remove the paper from the machine. Mark off 2”(5cm), placing the first mark midway
between two needle perforations. Begriming at the first perforation following the first mark,
count the number of perforations between the two marks. If the second line is between two
perforations, add an additional perforation.
3. To determine the number of stitches per inch (SPI), divide the number of perforations by
two - the number of inches stitched. There are 20 perforations between the two marks,
there are 10 SPI.
4. To determine the number of stitches per centimeter (SPO), divide by five - the number of
centimeters stitched. If there are 20 perforations between the two lines, there are 4 SPC.
6. Set the stitch length to 2.5mm or 1OSPL. Stitch 3”. Mark off a 2” section, then count the
stitches to confirm the accuracy of the setting. Repeat to set the stitch length to 1.5mm (17
SPI), 2 (12 SPI). 3mm (8.8SPI), and 4 mm (6 SPI). Record your measurements In Table.
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Stitch Length Measurements
If there is too much pressure on the tension discs, not enough thread is fed into the stitching and the
tension is right. The material puckers the seam is strained, and the stitches break. If there is too little
pressure, too much thread is fed, the tension is too loose, and the seam is loose and weak.
When the tension on the top, or needle, thread is too tight or the tension on the bottom or bobbin
thread is too loose, the top thread lies along the surface of the material and the bobbin thread forms
loops on the top.
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When the tension on the top, or needle, thread is too loose or the bottom, or bobbin, thread is too
tight, the bottom thread lies along the underside of the material and the top thread forms loops on
the underside.
The tension of the stitch is regulated by two controls: the upper tension regulator and the bobbin
case tension screw. The upper tension regulator is located on the front of the machine and adjusts
the tension discs.
The bobbin case tension screw, which is located on the bobbin case controls the tightness of the
bobbin case spring. These controls increase or decrease the amount of pressure on the threads as
they fed through the machine.
Because the structure, texture, thickness, density, and resiliency of the material and the size and
type of the thread affect the tension, the tension settings will vary with the material and the thread
size and type. Test the tension before beginning a garment or sewing with a different fabric, thread,
or machine.
1. Identity the upper tension regulator and the bobbin case tension screw.
2. Set the stitch length for 2 mm (128P1). Turn the upper tension regulator to the right 1/4 to
1/2 turn.
3. Fold one muslin rectangle in half crosswise and stitch on the straight grain about 1/2” from
the edge.
4. Examine the stitching to determine whether the stitching is balanced or unbalanced. If the
needle tension is tight the needle thread lies flat on the top ply and loops of the bobbin
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thread are visible, If the bobbin tension Is tight, the bobbin thread lies flat and the loops of
the needle thread are visible.
5. Adjust the bobbin tension first. To determine if it needs an adjustment, place the filled
bobbin In the bobbin case. Hold the end of the bobbin thread and jerk the thread slightly. It
should drop several Inches. If it slides freely down the thread, it needs more tension; if
doesn’t slide, it needs less.
a. If it needs an adjustment, use a small screwdriver to loosen the screw on the bobbin
case. For more tension, turn the screw in small increments and no more than 1/4
turn between tests.
b. Caution: The bobbin case screw is very short and will fall out if turned too far.
6. To adjust the needle thread tension turn the tension regulator to the left to loosen it; turn it
to the right to tighten.
7. Adjust the tensions only as needed until the stitch is balanced.
8. Experiment with stitching on a variety of fabrics.
Machine Maintenance
In the apparel industry, a clean, well-oiled machine is essential for safety and good performance, the
same is true in the classroom. Generally cleanliness is the responsibility of the operators, including
students who use the machines. The machines are given a quick cleaning after every eight hours of
operation and a thorough cleaning once a week. When sewing materials that produce a lot of lint,
the machines are cleaned more frequently.
Machine maintenance is also important in preventing stitching faults. Although stitching faults can
be caused by the material, machine, or operator, most can be corrected by cleaning the machine, re-
threading it, and/or changing the needle.
In most plants, a quick cleaning is done by the operators once a day, but the responsibility for the
more thorough cleaning varies from plant to plant. In some factories, it is done by the operators on
Friday afternoon. In others, it is done by a mechanic - often, when the operators are not working.
When cleaning the machine, clean everything - the machine mechanism, machine table and stand,
your tools, work station area, and even your hands - to avoid soiling the materials being sewn,
prevent accidents, and avoid wear and damage to the machine.
These directions focus on the lockstitch machine, but they can easily be adapted for other machine
types.
Materials/Supplies
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Air hose or industrial vacuum cleaner (when available)
Caution: Before cleaning any machine, turn off the machine and run it out.
1. Open the slide and remove the bobbin case, and then remove the throat plate. Occasionally
remove the face plate from the left end of the head.
2. Brush or blow away any lint, dust, or loose threads in the area around the feed dogs and
rotary hook or shuttle. Do not use anything hard, such as a screw driver or scissor points, to
remove the lint. When cleaning the over lock machine, open the cloth plate and looper
cover to blow out any lint in those areas. On the blind stitch machine, open the plate to
expose and clean the area around the spreader.
3. Turn the hand wheel manually to expose any areas that might have been hidden initially;
brush again.
4. Carefully tilt the machine head back until the head rests on the post on the back of the table.
5. Brush out any lint, dust, or threads in the lower part of the machine. Use a rag to remove
any lint on the machine’s mechanism, excess oil in the pan, and, if appropriate, the oil pump
screen.
6. If the machine is not self-oiling, consult the manual for oiling directions. If the manual is not
available, place one drop of oil on each moving part on the lower mechanism.
7. Press the knee lift to the right and lower the machine head into position.
11. Check the needle to be sure it is clean and the eye is not clogged.
13. Wipe away any excess oil or dust on the head, machine bed, thread stand, motor, table and
stand.
14. If there is lint between the tension discs and in the thread guides, use thread to floss the
tension discs and remove any lint.
15. If you have oiled the machine, sew on a few scraps to remove any excess oil.
16. Wash your hands after cleaning and oiling the machine.
17. At the end of the day, put a piece of stitching patch under the foot, lower the foot, cover the
machine, and pick up any trash.
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CHAPTER - VII
NEEDLE
Page | 101
1. SELECTION OF NEEDLE
Basic Skills
To use Industrial machinery efficiently, you should be able to select and set a needle; adjust
the stitch length regulator, pressure regulator, and knee lift; Identify balanced tension and adjust as
needed; and select appropriate thread.
Directions:
1. Begin with the power switch off. Hand wheel until the needle moves machines; you will turn
the counterclockwise - the direction operating.
2. Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to loosen the screw in the needle bar just enough to
release the needle.
3. Remove the needle from the needle bar. If the needle is broken, remove any broken parts
that may have dropped into the machine. If part of the shank remains in the needle bar after
the screw is loosened, tap the needle bar with the handle of the screwdriver. If it still does
not Fall out, turn the machine on, raise the presser foot, and stitch slowly until the vibration
causes the needle to drop out.
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4. Dispose of the needle safely.
5. Note To make a safe container for disposing needles; punch a small hole in the top of a
discarded film container.
6. Check the new needle for straightness by rolling it on the machine table. If the needle is
straight, the blade of the needle will remain parallel to the table surface when it is rolled.
Check the needle point for burrs by running your fingertip over the point.
7. To check the needle and thread compatibility, thread the needle with a short length of
thread. Hold the thread taut at each end in vertical position. The needle should spin slowly
dawn and around the thread. If It slides slowly down and around the thread. If it slides too
quickly or does not slide at all, try a different size needle or select another thread.
8. Use your thumbnail to locate the long groove on the needle. This will help you to set the
needle correctly.
9. Hold the new needle between your right thumb and forefinger at the base of the shank
where the groove begins.
10. Locate the last thread guide on the needle bar. On straight-stitch machines, the guide is
generally to the left of the needle. Insert the needle into the needle bar so that the groove is
facing the side with the last thread guide (left) and the eye is in line with the arm of the
machine. Check to be sure the needle is inserted into the needle bar as high as possible.
11. Tighten the needle bar screw.
12. Tighten the machine and stitch slowly. If the needle is positioned correctly, there will be no
skipped stitches and no unexpected noises. If it is not set properly, remove the needle and
reset it.
There are many reasons for changing the needle. Some of them are:
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2. PART OF THE MACHINE NEEDLS
1. Butt: A small pyramid at the upper end of the shank. It is
designed to make a single-point contact with the hole in the
needle bar.
2. Shank: The upper end of the needle that is held in the needle
bar by the needle screw. The shank is usually round, but it can
have one or two flat sizes. Designed to support and stabilize the
needle blade, the diameter of the shank is usually larger than
the diameter of the blade.
4. Blade: The thin section of the needle that extends from the
shank to the eye. It is easily bent and should be examined for
straightness periodically.
10. Needle groove (long groove): A g channel on the black it is located on the side on which the need
dread enters the eye a provides a Protective guide for the thread when the needle is rising and the
needle- thread loop is enlarging.
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11. Short groove: A short channel immediately above the needle eye. Located on the side opposite
the long groove, it is a guide for the needle thread and protects it from abrading when passing
through the material.
Needle Selection
Once the needle system type Is determined, the needle selection - its needle point and size -
depends primarily on the characteristics of the fabric, but also on the thread, seam type,
and stitch type.
Needle point
The needle point is determined by the fabric weight and its structure. Round points have a conical
shape designed to spread the yarns without breaking them; they are used for most woven and many
knitted materials.
Ballpoint needles have a rounded point and range from light to heavy. They are generally used for
knits and stretch fabrics and sometimes for button sewing because they center most misaligned
buttons and do not cut existing stitches.
Cutting points have sharp cutting edges; they are used on leather, suede, and neoprene.
Needle Size
The needle size can be as small as 60 (0-6mm) or as large as 250 (2.5 mm). The metric size describes
the diameter of the needle blade in hundredths of a millimeter. The needle size is determined by the
thread size.
If the needle is too fine, it will abrade the thread bend, break, affect the loop formation, and cause
skipped stitches. if it is too course, it will damage the fabric, produce an unattractive seam, cause the
seam to pucker, affect the loop formation, and cause skipped stitches.
Generally the best choice is the smallest size that will not skip stitches.
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3. STANDARD NEEDLES
The configuration of these needles is based on the particular fabric to be sewn.
Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics. Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser
sweater knits; stretch needle for highly elastic
Configuration: Has slightly rounded point fabrics, like
and elongated scarf to enable almost Spandex, or Lycra.
foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin
hook. Configuration: Both have rounded points that
penetrate between fabric threads rather than
Troubleshooting: When fabric is not pierce them. (Stretch-needle point is slightly
medium-weight woven, consider needle less rounded than ballpoint.)
specifically suited to fabric. For example, size
18 universal needle works on heavy denim, Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with
but size 18 jeans needle works better. ballpoint, stretch, and universal needles to see
which doesn't cut yarn and yields best results. If
ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch needle.
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Microtex and sharp needles Leather needle
Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic Uses: Excellent for sewing natural
leather; precisely stitching edges; and leather.
heirloom sewing.
Configuration: Has slight cutting point
Configuration: Has an acute point. (almost like an arrowhead).
Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck, Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers
canvas, upholstery fabrics, artificial with vision problems.
leather, and vinyl.
Configuration: Universal needle with slip-
Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute in threading slot at the eye.
point, and modified shaft to sew without
pushing fabric down into needle-plate Troubleshooting: Always pull sewn piece
hole. Goes through fabric and meets back away from needle before cutting
bobbin hook better on dense woven thread so needle doesn't unthread.
fabrics. Needle works well on woven fabrics, but
may occasionally snag knits, so test-sew
Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when to check for fabric and needle
sewing very heavy fabrics, try larger needle and compatibility.
sew more slowly or walk needle through fabric
(by turning hand crank).
Decorative needles
The configuration is designed to wed thread to fabric for surface embellishment.
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Topstitching needle Embroidery needle
Uses: Sewing with decorative metallic Uses: Piecing, quilting, and stippling.
threads.
Configuration: Has special tapered shaft to
Configuration: Has universal or standard prevent damaging fabrics when stitching
point; large, elongated eye; and large multiple layers.
groove to allow fragile metallic and
synthetic filament threads to flow Troubleshooting: Move fabric smoothly
smoothly. without pulling on needle when free-
motion stitching to prevent breaking
Troubleshooting: Metallic threads are very needle.
sensitive to problems in machine: Tiniest
burr on thread path or needle can cause
problems.
Special-purpose needles
These needles are used only with front-to-back threading machines with zigzag features. Make sure
your throat-plate needle hole is wide enough to accommodate needle's width, and zigzag width
function is set at zero to prevent sideways movement.
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Hemstitch (wing) needle Twin (double) needle
Configuration: Has fins on sides of shank Configuration: Two needles on single shaft
to create holes as you sew. produce two rows of stitches.
Measurement between needles ranges
Troubleshooting: Stitch is more effective from 1.6mm to 6mm, and needles come
when needle returns to same needle with universal, stretch, embroidery,
hole more than once. If needle pushes denim, and Metallica points.
fabric into needle hole, put stabilizer
under fabric. Troubleshooting: Be sure throat plate
allows for distance between needles.
Uses: Same uses as for double needle. Uses: Free-motion stitching with dropped
feed dogs.
Configuration: Cross bar on single shaft
connects three needles to sew three Configuration: Has wire spring above point
stitching rows. Comes with universal to prevent fabrics from riding up onto
point in 2.5mm and 3mm widths. needle, eliminating need for presser foot.
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4. TYPE OF NEEDLE AND THEIR USE
Needle
s.no Types of Sewing Machines System
1 Single Needle Lock Stitch Machines DA X 1or DB X 1
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine witch Automatic Thread
2 Trimmer DA X 1or DB X 1
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine witch Fabric Edge
3 Trimmer DA X 1or DB X 1
4 Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine DP X 5
5 Single Needle Lock Stitch Zigzag Machine DB X 1
DC X 1 or DC X
6 THREE Thread Over Lock Machine 27
DC X 1 or DC X
7 FIVE thread Over Lock With Safety Stitch Machine 27
8 Button Hole Machine DP X 5
9 Chain Stitch Button Stitch Machine TQ X 1 or TV X 7
10 Lock Stitch Button Stitch Machine TQ X 1 or TV X 7
11 Inter Lock/Flat Lock Machine UY X 1 or GAS
12 Feed Of The Arm Machine For Denim TV X 1 or TV X 7
13 One &Two Needle Chain Stitch Machine TV X 1 or TV X 7
14 Blind Stitch Machine LW X 6T
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5. NEEDLE SIZE AND RELEVANCE OF TYPE OF THE MATERIAL TO BE STICHED
2 #14 to #16 Medium Weight Materials Like Textile, natural fabrics etc..
Fine toothed feed dogs with a pitch of only 1.0 to 125 mm to be used to avoid feed
damage (pitch = distance between two points in feed dog.)
Tooth pitch of 1.3 to 11.6 mm and the peaks of the teeth slightly rounded off to avoid
damage on fine material
To keep the both plies together while sewing coarser feed dog of 2.5mm tooth pitch is
needed
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Delicate fabric
Even after rounding of teeth tip damage may be caused to rubber coated feed dog with no
sharp teeth at all may be used
STANDARD ADJUSTMENTS:
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CHAPTER - VIII
SEWING THREAD AND SELECTION CRITERIA
Page | 113
Sewing thread is usually less than 1/1000th of the weight of apparel, but it carries more one
half the responsibilities for its performance
THREAD SELECTION
FACTORES IN THREAD SELECTION
Thread Properties
Threads are used to form the stitches that hold the fabric parts Together. They can be
described by fiber type, constriction, and size
Fiber Type
Threads can be made from a single fiber type such as cotton, linen, silk, rayon, nylon,
polyester, or rubber or from a combination of fibers such as cotton/polyester.
The most common natural fiber used for threads, cotton threads, have excellent sewabllity
with little kinking or skip stitching. They are rarely affected by hot needles - a common element of
high-speed sewing machines-and even sew well on poorly adjusted machines.
Cotton threads dye well, and since they mold to the fabric better than other fibers, they are
particularly attractive for topstitched elements. Compared to synthetic threads, their strength and
resistance to abrasion is inferior, and they shrink and mildew when wet.
Cotton threads are produced with three finishes: soft, glace’ and mercerized.
Soft finish threads receive no additional processing except bleaching and dyeing. Used on
inexpensive garments, they are relatively inexpensive with good sewabllity but because they have a
high shrinkage, seam pucker] fl g is frequently a problem after washing.
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Glace’ threads are treated with wax and special chemicals for a hard, glossy finish. They are stronger,
more resistant to abrasion, and stiffer than other cotton threads. They are available in a limited
color selection and used for gathering and for sewing heavy materials, leather, vinyl, and canvas.
Mercerized threads are treated with a caustic solution to create a smooth, strong, lustrous
thread. They are frequently used on cotton garments that will be dyed.
Linen and silk threads are rarely used in production because of their high cost.
Synthetic threads
The most common synthetic threads, polyester and nylon, were developed to perform well
on synthetic fabrics and withstand the chemicals and heat of durable press treatments. Compared to
cotton threads of the same size, they are stronger, more resistant to abrasion, mildew and
ultraviolet radiation, and have less shrinkage.
Combination fibers
One of the most common threads in use today is a combination of cotton and polyester, which
combines the sew ability of cotton with polyester’s strength and resistance to abrasion.
Thread construction
Although there are a variety of thread constructions, most threads used in garments are twisted,
core spun, monofilament, or textured.
Twisted threads
All natural fibers, with the exception of silk, begin with fibers - short lengths of staple, which
are twisted together to make a single-ply thread. Then two or more plies are twisted together in the
reverse direction to make a sewing thread with a balanced. Twist Without this balance, the thread
could not be controlled.
Twist Direct
Z - Twist S - Twist
Most threads are finished with a “Z” or left twist because the action of the lockstitch machine would
cause threads with an “8” twist to unwind
Page | 115
One exception is the double-needle lockstitch, which has two bobbins one revolving to the left and
one to the right. This type of machine requires threads with both twists.
In addition to the natural fibers, polyester, silk, and nylon filaments cut or broken Into staple lengths.
Spun polyester thread is one of the most common.
Core spun
Core spun threads begin with a continuous filament of polyester, which is then wrapped with a
cotton or polyester sheath to make a single-ply thread.
Then the two to four plies are twisted together to make the sewing thread
Cotton/poly threads have the advantage of better sew ability, while poly/poly
Threads can be dyed in a one-step process.
Monofilament Threads
Monofilament is simply a single filament of nylon of polyester. It is stiff,
wiry, and unravels easily. It is uncomfortable next to the skin and harsh on
machines. Available only in clear, light and dark gray, monofilament Threads are translucent and
reflect the fabric’s color. Monofilament threads are used primarily for blind hemming and surging
inexpensive garments and Household textiles.
Textured Threads
Made of multifilament that have been crimp textured or bulked by twisting, crimping, and
untwisting, textured threads have a soft Land, good coverage, and elasticity. The most common use
of textured threads is in the loopers of over edge and cover stitch machines; however, very fine sizes
can be used as needle threads on chain stitch and over edge machines. They can also be used as
bobbin threads to add moderate stretch to a lock stitched seam.
Thread Size
The thread size is dependent on many factors - such as the fabric weight and type, stitch and seam
type, machine speed, needle size, end use,
and seam strength.
Most threads are sized using the Tex system or the cotton count system. The Tex system, which is
generally used in manufacturing, is a direct system, arid the number increases with the thread size.
The cotton system; and the number decrease with the thread size. Generally it is easier to
comparing the Tex numbers when comparing threads with different constructions F example, a core
spun thread ha size 100 is equivalent to spun polyester thread in size 70 (T-27); and it is larger than
spun polyester in size 100 (T-21) and textured polyester in size 150 (T.-18).
If your retailer does not stock threads with a Tex number designation, you can substitute other
good quality threads. Long staple polyester, cotton- wrapped polyester, and mercerized cotton
threads are suitable for general sewing on most fabrics. For very lightweight fabrics, use fine cotton
embroidery thread (60/2) or fine cotton-wrapped polyester. For heavier fabrics, use topstitching
thread or buttonhole twist.
The Needle Size Chart from American & Efird, Inc. provides a useful guide for selecting compatible
needles and threads. However, it Is important to remember that this is the minimum recommended
needle size and that a larger needle may be required for the fabric or application.
Page | 116
CHAPTER - IX
TYPES OF STITCHES & SEAM
Page | 117
1. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS
The formation of a stitch begins when the needle penetrates the fabric and descends to its
lowest point.
The bobbin hook then slides by the needle's scarf, catching the upper thread, and carries it
around the bobbin and bobbin thread.
The thread is then pulled up into the fabric, completing the stitch.
Each category of sewing machine produces a specific type of stitch formation depending on the
number of needles, looper, and threads which combine to construct the stitch. Each of these
configurations is known as a stitch type and they are classified according to their main
characterization.
Page | 118
A. STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS
This stitch is frequently combined with a multithread. Chain stitch (401) to seam and finish the
edges.
Page | 119
Chain stitch (class100) Hand stitch (class 200)
Page | 120
2. SEAM TYPES AND CLASSIFICATIONS
Seams are basic element of construction formed when two or more pieces of material are sewn
together, they are used for joining garment sections In the production of sewn products.
The success of every garment depends on the accuracy and skill with which the seams join the
Individual components of the garment
5. Equipment available.
7. Retail price.
Page | 121
SEAM CLASSIFICATION
As per the British standard 3870, Part 1 - 1991 seams may classified Into eight types.
Generally the following seam allowances are used in apparel construction, but it must be
remembered that this is only a guide and will not be appropriate for every design and fabric.
1/8” to 3/8” Enclosed seams at edges that have separate facings, mach as necklines, collars,
cuffs, and armholes, and on intricate curves. The narrowest (1/8”) seam allowances can be
used on lightweight fabrics that do not fray, while the widest (3/8”) are used as loosely
woven S fabrics and fabrics that ravel easily.
3/8” to 1/2” Sleeves, yokes, waistlines, gores, style lines within the silhouette, center lines,
top-stitched seams, cut-out darts, cuff/sleeve seams, band/skirt seams, inseams, and side
seams on budget and moderately priced garments.
3/4” to 1”: Vertical seams on better garments, zipper plackets, and darts.
Page | 122
3. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MEN`S SHIRT
Counterstich sleeve
Attach sleeve
Sew pocket
Runstitch cuff
Page | 123
4. SEAMS & STITCHES OF MENS`S TROUSER
Sew side
Page | 124
5. SEAMS & STITCHES OF DENIM TROUSER
Sew inseam
Hem bottom
Sew side
Page | 125
6. SEAMS & STITCHES OF POLO T - SHIRT
Sew pocket
Sew sleeve
Hem bottom
Make slit
Page | 126
7. SEAMS & STITCHES OF ROUND NECK T – SHIRT
Hem sleeve
Hem bottom
Page | 127
CHAPTER - X
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING DEFECTS & REMIDIES
Page | 128
1. DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCK STICH MACHINE
2 Skip Stitching Presser foot pressure is not Check the presser foot
enough regulator level
Thread escapes Thread tension given by the Loosen tension post no.1
from the needle eye tension post no. I is eye after slightly.
4 thread too high
after thread
trimming
Page | 129
2. BUTTON HOLING SEWING MACHINE
5 Skip stitching
The cloth is made light Delay the timing of the
weight materials needle and sewing hook
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3. BUTTON STITCH MACHINE
The thread pull off lever does Adjust the thread pull off
The first stitch trails not work properly lever by the nipper bar block
3 reactively long thread from
the right side of the button
Page | 131
4. OVER LOCK MACHINE
Page | 132
CHAPTER - XI
GARMENT MANUFACTURING
PARTS AND ASSEMBLY PREPARATION OF A SHIRT
Page | 133
1. Straight Long Seams with minimal bursts
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place
Fabric close to the Operator. Fabric
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Page | 134
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20”x5” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 135
2. Attaching one piece to other using folder
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place
Fabric close to the Operator. Fabric 20” X 5”
Pick Up the body from the left side on the table and
place under the needle.
Security
Quality
Page | 136
Ergonomics
Waste
If possible use the other edge of the fabric for placket facing
attaching.
Abilities Developed
Necessary materials
DNLS
2 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
20”x5” & 22” x 2” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 137
3. Placket facing attach using folder
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine with both
feet on the pedal and the right knee against the knee lift. Place
Fabric close to the Operator. Fabric Ready Front Cuts
Security
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
If possible use the other edge of the fabric for placket facing
attaching.
Page | 138
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
DNLS
2 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
20”x5” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Folder
Page | 139
4. Hemming operations using folder
Methodology:
STEP 2.
Security
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 140
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20”x5” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Folder
Page | 141
5. Square pocket attach
Security
Quality
Page | 142
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Fronts & Pockets.
Trimmer & 1/16” CL Foot
Page | 143
6. Rounded bottom pocket attach
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 144
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Fronts & Pockets.
Trimmer & 1/16” CL Foot
Page | 145
7. Bottom triangle pocket attach
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Page | 146
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Fronts & Pockets.
Trimmer & 1/16” CL Foot
Page | 147
8. Diamond pocket attach
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 148
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Fronts & Pockets.
Trimmer & 1/16” CL Foot
Page | 149
9. Long & Short seams with needle down stoppages at corners
Methodology:
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 150
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20”x5” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 151
Machine: SNLS 10. Collar run stitch operation Goal: 25 sec Exercise Number
Methodology:
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Page | 152
Abilities Developed
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Cut Collar Plies
Page | 153
11. Top stitch along edges
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 154
Waste
Abilities developed
Necessary material
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 BobbinsReady
Page | 155
12. Hem along the contour
Methodology:
Quality
Page | 156
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ply as Shown in Figure & Thread trimmer
Page | 157
13. Mock neck band hem
Methodology:
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 158
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ply as Shown in Figure & Thread trimmer
Page | 159
14. Sewing with template
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Page | 160
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20”x5” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Template 10” X 3”
Page | 161
15. Mock pick stitching
The timekeeper starts the chronometer. 20” X 3” for Bottom N/B Ply
Security
Quality
Page | 162
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Neckband plies and ready collar.
Thread trimmer
Template
Page | 163
16. Top stitch handling tree piles
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Page | 164
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20”x5” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
1/16” CR Foot.
Page | 165
17. Mock centre stitch collar
Methodology:
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities developed
Page | 166
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Collars & Thread trimmer
1/16” CR Foot.
Page | 167
18. Mock topstitch collar
Security
Quality
Page | 168
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Collars & Trimmer
Page | 169
19. Cuff hem
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine Fabric 11” x 3.5” Ply
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 170
Waste
Ability
Necessary material
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
11”x 3.5” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 171
20. Mock run stitch cuffs
Machine: SNLS Goal: Exercise Number
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine Fabric 11” x 3.5” Ply
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 172
Waste
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
11”x 3.5” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 173
21. Binding operation
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine Fabric 20” x 5”
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. 22” x 2” (Creased)
Methodology: STEP 1.
STEP 1.
STEP 2.
STEP 2.
Security
Page | 174
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
2 Fabric plies & Trimmer
T – Guide
Page | 175
22. Binding operation using a folder
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine Fabric 20” x 5”
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. 22” x 3”
Methodology:
Security
Quality
No Roping allowed.
Page | 176
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
2 Fabric plies (20” x 5”, 22” x 3”)
Trimmer
Folder F205
Page | 177
23. Mock continuous slv placket attach using a folder
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine Fabric Full Sleeve Ready Cut
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. 14” x 3” Ply Cuts
Methodology:
Security
Quality
No Roping allowed.
Page | 178
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Sleeves & 14” x 3” Plies
Folder F205
Page | 179
24. Mock split edge placket attach operation using folder
Machine: SNLS Goal: Exercise Number
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine Fabric Full Sleeve Ready Cut
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. 7” x 1.5” Ply Cuts
Methodology:
Using a Folder
Security
Quality
No Roping allowed.
Page | 180
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Sleeves & 7” x 1.5” Plies
Folder
Page | 181
25. Attach two plies using folder
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine Body Ply
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Methodology:
Security
Page | 182
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Folder & ¼ “ CL Foot
Page | 183
26. Pleats
Exercise: Pleats BK 01
Security
Quality
Page | 184
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
20”x5” Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Page | 185
27. Mock yoke attach with folder
Security
Quality
Page | 186
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Fabric plies & Thread trimmer
Folder & 1/ 4” CL Presser Foot
Page | 187
28. Shoulder attach without folder
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine Backs From Yoke Attach & Fronts From Cutting
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator.
Methodology: STEP 1.
STEP 1.
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 188
Waste
Abilities Developed
Page | 189
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Backs & Fronts cuttings
Trimmer
Page | 190
Machine: DNLS Goal:19 Seconds Exercise Number
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 191
WASTE
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Front & Back attached pieces.
Page | 192
30. Shoulder attach using folder
Methodology:
STEP 1.
Security
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 193
Waste
Abilities Developed
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready Backs & Fronts cuttings
Folder & ¼” CL Presser foot.
Clamped Sloping Table
Page | 194
31. Sew contour fabric to straight fabric
Security
Quality
Page | 195
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Page | 196
32. Mock collar attach
The apprentice should sit facing the Sewing Machine Ready Collar
with both feet on the pedal and the right knee against
the knee lift. Place Fabric close to the Operator. Ready Body
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Page | 197
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Collars and bodies.
Page | 198
33. Binding operations
Methodology:
STEP 1.
STEP 2.
Security
Page | 199
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
2 Fabric plies.
Page | 200
34. Mock collar finish
Methodology:
Stitches
Trim threads at the end (UBT) and dispose on Ply 2
Left bar.
Security
Quality
Page | 201
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready Body with collar attached.
Page | 202
35. Lap seam along contour
Security
Page | 203
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Mock plies as shown in figure.
Page | 204
36. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap Seam)
(Lap Seam)
Security
Quality
Page | 205
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready bodies & Sleeves.
Page | 206
37. Lap seam along contour using folder
Methodology:
USING FOLDER
Quality
Page | 207
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
2 plies as shown in figure.
Folder
Page | 208
38. Mock sleeve attach operation (Lap seam) with folder
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Page | 209
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Ready bodies & Sleeves.
Folder
Page | 210
39. Topstitch along contour over lap seam
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Page | 211
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready piece as shown in figure.
Page | 212
40. Topstitch along contour over lap seam using folder
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Ergonomics
Page | 213
Waste
Abilities developed
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready piece as shown in figure.
Folder & ¼” CR presser foot.
Page | 214
41. Topstitch sleeve attach
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Page | 215
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities developed
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready Body with collar and sleeve attached.
Page | 216
42. Topstitch sleeve attach using folder
Methodology:
Security
Quality
Page | 217
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
DNLS
3 Thread Cones.
3 Bobbins
Ready Body with collar and sleeve attached.
Folder & ¼” CR foot.
Page | 218
43. Hemming long contours (Curved)
Methodology
Security
Quality
Page | 219
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer
Page | 220
44. Long straight hemming
Methodology
Security
Quality
Page | 221
Ergonomics
Waste
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer
T- Guide & 1/16” CL Presser Foot
Page | 222
45. Hemming long contours (Curved) using folder
Methodology
Security
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Page | 223
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer
1/16” CL Foot & Folder F503
Magnetic guide
Page | 224
46. Long straight hemming using folder
Methodology
Mock Fabric Cuts As Shown in Fig.
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick the piece from haunch back or Stand left
to the Operator and place it on table. Fold 1”at
the (Turn & Turn) and position it under
needle.
Back Tack at the end; Turn the fold by 90
degrees with needle down Position, set the
folder and feed the edge to be bottom folded
into it.
Start Sewing along the edge by feeding the
folded width with the right hand and guiding
the piece along using left hand.
At the other end, Remove the Folder, turn the
fabric again by 90 degrees and back tack.
Cut the threads and dispose to the Disposal
Bar or Center runner.
Security
Quality
Ergonomics
Waste
Page | 225
Abilities Developed
Necessary Materials
SNLS
2 Thread Cones.
2 Bobbins
Mock Pcs as Shown in fig. & Trimmer
T- Guide & 1/16” CL Presser Foot
Folder F505
Page | 226
CHAPTER - XII
DIFFERENT TYPES OF SEWING ATTACHMENTS AND USE ON MACHINE
Page | 227
Type of Attachments
Page | 228
2. Yoking and Shoulder Joining:
This folder turn down the top ply and joins it Foot and Guide assist in turning and top
to two additional plys. The bottom ply is then stitching front and back collar bands after they
turned back to form the yoke. Special foot is have been sewn to the collar. Produces a
recommended. consistent stitch margin along the bead.
Used to attach the yoke to the front and back panels of the shirt.
Both folders can be made left or right.
Page | 229
3. Pocket Hemming
This attachment is used to hem the tops of pockets. Many different folder styles are available to suit
your particular need.
Please specify finished size, stitch margin, and the amount of in tuck required.
Page | 230
4. Cuff Hemming - Short Sleeve
In addition to the plain hemmer, a variety of folders are available for finishing short sleeves. Two of
the most popular are illustrated below.
These folders may also be used to hem the tops of pockets
Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts. Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts.
May be used on lockstitch or chainstitch
machines. Stripes and plaids are easily matched. Must be used on lockstitch machines.
Piping and other types of trim may also be
added.
5. Tail Hemming
No. 209 The #209 hinged foot hemmer is available in a 3/16" finish. The hinged
feature allows for some give as you cross over the side seam.
No. 209A Foot Hemmer is also available with AIR JET, which helps eliminate loose
thread strands.
No. 210 The swing hemmer is used for straighter runs and is available with a spring
for side seams. The swing out bracket is recommended for easy finishing.
Special presser foot recommended.
Page | 231
Page | 232
6. Button Stay Hemming
No. 211 Upturned hemmer with lining for use on lockstitch machines. Various
styles are available with or without lining. Special presser foot
recommended.
No. 211A Downturned hemmer for use on chainstitch machines. Special presser
foot recommended.
No. 211B This picture illustrates a button stay hemmer with a separate strip added
underneath. Bottom stripper available with or without lining. Used on
double needle chainstitch machines.
Page | 233
7. Cuff Hemming - Long Sleeve
For use on lockstitch machines with lining and For use on chainstitch machines with lining in rolls
face goods in short pieces. and face goods in pieces or rolls.
Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size Hemmer is adjustable to accommodate different size
lining and face goods. lining and face goods.
Please specify hem size and stitch margin. Please specify hem size and stitch margin. Special
Special presser foot is recommended. presser is recommended.
Page | 234
8. Setting Sleeve Plackets
Used to sew a continuous facing around the Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on
sleeve opening. the sleeve opening.
Folder is designed for easy loading of short Folders are available in top and bottom sets when cut
pieces. Edge guide foot is recommended. sizes of top and bottom placket strips are different.
Edge guide foot is recommended.
Folder available with separate width adjustment. Lap seam folder can also be made with a spring
release which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely.
Please specify make and gauge of machine and send material with a sample of the sleeve seams.
Page | 235
10. Sleeve Setting
Set of guides for joining the armhole to the sleeve Turns the sleeve up as the body is pulled over and stitched
on high quality shirts. down.
Adjustable margin settings. Special presser foot is Produces a quality finish and appearance. Special presser
recommended. foot is recommended.
Page | 236
Imitation Single Needle Sleeving
Folder hems the sleeve and joins it to the body, using a double needle machine.
Attaches the center plait to the shirt body. Folder features a separate concave lining track which
allows easier starts for all types of fabrics and a tight finish around the lining.
Bed plate mount or swing bracket mount is available. Body hemmer provided with folder.
Page | 237
Used to make a one piece shirt front by hemming the shirt body itself.
Folder features a separate concave lining track which helps produce a tight finish.
Available in left hand (ladies'-neck start) and right hand (men's-neck start) models.
Used to eliminate shading problems and to match stripes and plaids.
A variation of the imitation Center Front Folder for use on Men's and ladies' sport shirts.
The top of the front conceals the button hole which is sewn on the bottom tuck.
Page | 238
Attach Center Placket
(Horn Style Placket Folder)
Used to sew a front, primarily on ladies' dress shirts and "pullover" type sport shirts.
Available with or without lining. Material generally cut in short pieces, but can also be cut in rolls.
Page | 239
Attach Center Placket
(French Front Folder)
Generally used on first quality men's shirts. Available for single and double needle machines.
Available with or without lining.
Page | 240
Attach Center Placket
Top Center with Double Lining Track
Pleat Gauge
Used for decorative trim on shirt pockets, as wella s back and front body pleats.
Made for most double needle machines.
Face goods may be in pieces or rolls - lining must be in rolls. Several pleat styles are available.
Page | 241
CHAPTER – XIII
MONTHLY SCHEDULE FOR SEWING MACHINE OPERATOR TRAINING PROGRAMME
Page | 242
Name: Starting Date:
Prior experience (Operations): Ending Date:
Trainer’s Name:
nd
Sl. Target Start End 2 best
Name Target Remarks
No. Day Date Date time
1 Simult- Pin Board (RH) 45 sec
2 aneous Pin Board (LH) 90 sec
3 Pedal control at max speed (Pe1) 6 sec
2
4 Precise stops at max speed (Pe2) 5 sec
5 3 Straight stitches at max speed (Pe3) 10 sec
6 4 Change direction with needle down (Pe4) 8 sec
7 5 Judging changes of direction (Pe5) 16 sec
8 5.5 Swing curve with one hand (Pe6) 6 sec
9 6.5 Swing in circles (Pe7) 34 sec
10 7 Swing curves (Pe8) 5 sec
11 OL – Swing straight line (Pe9) 10 sec
12 8.5 OL – exact stop (Pe10) 20 sec
13 OL – Straight lines and curves (Pe11) 15 sec
14 Cleaning machine (Me0) 35 sec
Parallel with FE
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