SEWING TECHNOLOGY

I st Year COSTUME DESIGN & FASHION

INTRODUCTION TO SEWING

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
To understand the concept of sewing.

To learn about the types of sewing machine and their parts.

To acquire skills in basic operation of sewing machine.

To learn about the tools used in sewing process.

To learn about the sewing Thread & Needle.

SEWING & ITS HISTORY
• Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with a sewing
needle and thread.

• Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, arising in the Paleolithic era. Before the invention
of spinning yarn or weaving fabric.

• A sewing machine is used to stitch the fabric and other pliable materials together with threads.
Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the quantum of
manual sewing done in garment industries.

• Since its invention, it has greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of the fabric,
garment and needle industries.
EVOLUTION OF THE
SEWING MACHINE
ISAAC MERRITT SINGER
The sewing machine device was
invented in 1790 by English
inventor, Thomas Saint, but he
could not advertise his invention.
He designed a wooden awl to make
holes in leather and canvas, Josef
Madersperger began developing
the sewing machine in 1807 and
he presented the working machine
in 1814. In 1851, an American
named Isaac Merritt Singer
started a large scale sewing
machine industry.
 SEWING MACHINE PARTS & FUNCTION
Domestic sewing machine
• Domestic sewing machines are built for home makers for
household use.

• These machines can handle a variety of materials. These can

perform every task. But these machines cannot do heavy
tasks.

• These machines work at a slower pace and intended for

people who works slowly.

• These machines can work up to 5 hours. If it will work more Industrial sewing machine
than 5 hours then the motor may become hot.

• There are two basic types of domestic (for home use)

machines are

1. Mechanical types of sewing machines

2. Electronic sewing machines
DOMESTIC SEWING MACHINE PARTS & FUNCTION
 Spool pin
Spool pin is a small metal rod on the body of
the sewing machine. The main function of spool
pin is to hold the spool of thread .

Thread Guide

Thread guide is a small metal ring, on the face

of sewing machine. It keeps the thread in position
and guides the thread from the spool to the
needle.

Tension Disc
Tension disc is a metal spring with
concave disc and screw. The thread is fed into
the tension disc in between the two concave disc,
screw and spring to pass the thread freely to the
needle. The screw can be adjusted to increase or
decrease the tension
Take-up Lever

Take up lever is, hook shaped and the thread is passed

through this to make upward and downward position, to
pull thread in the sewing machine and to enable the
needle to stitch.

Needle Bar

Needle bar is a steel rod to hold the needle at one end

with help of a clamp.

Bobbin Case

Bobbin case is a metal circular cap shaped part which

holds the bobbin. The upward thread helps to bring the
lower thread in the bobbin from the bobbin case to make
a stitch
Bobbin:
A bobbin is a small cylinder like structure, on which wire, yarn,
thread or film is wound. In non-electrical applications the bobbin is
used for tidy storage without tangles. A bobbin provides temporary or
permanent storage for yarn and may be made of plastic, metal, or
wood.
Presser Foot:
Presser foot is a heavy fork shaped steel rod which is attached to
the presser bar. Presser foot holds the fabrics in the place while sewing
Presser Foot Lifter

Presser foot lifter is a lever attached to the presser

bar. It is controlled by the presser foot and helps in raising
and lowering the presser foot.

Stitch Regulator

Stitch regulator is a small vertical bar with markings

and has a knob. It controls the length of the stitch on the
fabric.

Bobbin Winder

Bobbin winder is a small rod in the front side of the

wheel. It is used to wind thread and it controls the bobbin
while winding thread. Bobbin winding should be carried out in
medium speed. Increase in speed will result in stretching of
the sewing thread which may result into breakage
Fly Wheel
Fly wheel is a circular metal ring which helps the
movement of the machine. It can be rotated manually or by
power. It lowers and raises the sewing machine needle

Clutch / Thumb Screw

Clutch or thumb screw is attached in the middle of fly

wheel. If the screw is removed, the machine will not work. Thumb
screw controls stitching.
 
Slide Plate

This is a rectangular metal plate. It can be moved to insert

and remove the bobbin.

Needle Plate
It is a semi -circular metal plate with a small hole through
which the needle passes through. The needle enters inside the
hole and picks the bobbin thread
Feed Dog

The feed dog is a set of metal teeth. The feed dog helps the
fabric to move after each stitch

Face Plate

Face plate is a metal plate covering the needle bar, presser

bar and take up lever. It covers these parts and prevents them from
dust

Pedal
It is made up of iron. It is pressed by foot to give pressure for
the work of sewing machine. Pedal is found in leg operating
machines which is connected to fly wheel through a belt.
 Tools and equipment used for Measuring, pattern drafting,
cutting and sewing

MEASURING TOOLS

1. Measuring Tape:

A measuring tape is one of the most useful

sewing tools. It is usually soft and flexible
strip/ribbon with linear measurement markings
made mostly from reinforced polyester or fibre
glass. The most common length of a measuring
tape is 60 inches or 152 cm.
How to read a sewing measuring tape:
There are two main systems for measuring length.
The Imperial System of Measurements The Metric System of Measurement

Measured in yards, feet and inches. Measured in meters, centimetres and

millimetres.
2. Straight Ruler:
Non flexible measuring scale with both the centimeters and
inches marked on either side, this can either be in Metal, Wooden
or plastic. Usually 1.5 feet or 2 feet ruler is preferred, so as to draw
long lines according to the garment lengths. Scale in the picture is
called gird scale which is also used for pattern grading.
3. L-Scale:
It is L shape ruler with a 90° angle at the corner and the
short arm has 12” (inches) marking and long arm has 24” (inches)
marking. This is used to draw perpendicular line and measure at
the same time.
4. Hip curve:
This is a curve shape ruler which is used for drawing hip
shape on trousers and skirts and curved hemline shapes. This also
has measurements marked on it.
5. French Curve:
This is in the shape of number 6, made of clear plastic. This is an
accurate curve to draw the armhole curves and neck line curves and
also used for drawing a deeper smaller curved area.
6. Set Square:
Used for Marking 90°angle.

CUTTING TOOLS
1. Scissors:
The metal Scissors made of alloy brass is used for the fabric
cutting. Fabric Cutting scissors are also called as Shears. For cutting
paper pattern, plastic handled scissor with stainless steel blades are
used. Scissor comes in different sizes. It is important to buy and use
the size of scissor that is comfortable for your hand. Bent-handled shears
Pinking shears Embroidery scissors Electronic scissors

Straight knife Round knife Seam ripper

2. Trimmer:
This is a used to cut the thread from the machine or on
the garment stitched. This is handier than a scissor while using.

MARKING TOOLS:

Tracing wheel:
This is an instrument that has a handle and a small wheel
with pointed teeth. This is used to trace the pattern shapes onto
another paper or by using between the pattern and fabric and
running the tracing wheel over the pattern shapes will transfer the
patterns on to fabric for cutting.
Notcher:
This is more like the single puncher, but punches like
a .” slit on paper edge. This is used to mark the notch marks on seam
junctions on the pattern edge. Apart from these special tools, regular
pencil, white colour fabric marking pencil to mark on fabric, large size
eraser, Yellow carbon paper, tailors chalk and pen are need while
drafting a pattern.

Tailor’s chalk
It is made of coloured powder that is used to transfer
markings on to the fabric. The tailor’s chalk is available in
assorted colours and in different shapes, mainly rectangular
and triangle. It is also available in the form of a pencil
Fabric-marking pens
Such pens are air erasable or water soluble. These are specifically
used for marking designs. After tracing the design, the colour can last for
a long time but disappears completely at once when damped with water
(Fig. 2.13). Air-erasable pens are especially used for dressmaking, shoe
making, handicraft, embroidery, etc., for temporary marking

Tracing papers and sheets:

A tracing paper is used with the tracing wheel/pen/pencil
to transfer pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric.
Care must be taken when choosing from the wide range of
available colors, since most varieties produce a mark that
remains in the fabric until it has been laundered.
Tailor’s wax
It has a consistency like that of a crayon. It is especially suitable for
use on wool or worsted materials. It is available in a wide range of
colours that is, white, yellow, red, blue, black and fluorescent green,
etc. The marks it produces can only be removed from the fabric with
heat or laundering. Thus, it is advisable to test the tailor’s wax on a
small scrap of fabric before using it on the right side of the material
Pins
Dressmaking pins are mainly made of stainless steel or brass and
are sized from 10 to 32. Size 17 is the general purpose dressmaker’s
pin, but there are several special varieties that can be useful (Fig.
2.14). Its main function is to hold the paper or fabric in position
during marking, cutting and stitching. The correct selection of pins
for the specific fabric (based on the size and material of the pin) is
important as a wrong pin used may create a defect in the fabric.
 DOMESTIC
PRESSING TOOL: Hand steam iron

Iron Pressing is an essential part of sewing. Every seam

should be pressed as soon as it has been sewn, to give a clear,

crisp line to the seam. Your pressing iron should be capable of

both dry and steam ironing. A spray attachment is useful for dry
Features:
ironing. An ordinary domestic iron is essential for general
Cord protector
Temperature indicator
pressing; a steam iron is useful for lightweight fabrics. Pressing
Temperature control dial
Spray button
cloths are most important. Use cheesecloth for lightweight fabrics
Power steam button
Variable steam control
and cotton or linen for heavier fabrics.
Water filling inlet
Spray Nozzle
Transparent water tank
Teflon coating plate
INDUSTRIAL IRON IRON VACCUM TABLE COMMERCIAL STEAM
WITH BOILER PRESS MACHINE
Needles and Threads:
There are various type of needles and threads available in the market. It is important to select a
suitable needle, thread and miscellaneous tools for sewing.
Hand sewing needles

Eye Stem Point

Industrial sewing needle

Short groove

Point Eye Blade

Shoulder Butt
Shank

Scarf
Sewing thread:
• Wide varieties of sewing thread are available in the market. It is very important to select the
correct sewing thread for the fabric. They should share the same characteristic as they will be
laundered, ironed in the garment and thus, will stretch and shrink together.

• A long staple thread is smoother and creates less lint in the sewing machine.

• Made of short staples, the thread is uneven in texture and the result is less than perfect
stitching. A strong thread is good for construction, especially on fabrics of natural fibre.

• Mercerized cotton has been treated to be smoother and straighter with less fuzz than other
cotton threads. Polyester thread has a high sheen and is abrasion-resistant.

• Silk thread is strong and lustrous. This thread is used for construction and stitched details such
as buttonholes and top stitching. Always select a thread according to the type of fabric being used.
• Use synthetic threads with man-made fibres and mercerized cotton or silk thread with cotton or
linen.

• Woolen fabrics should be sewn with silk or synthetic threads as they have stretching capacity
with the fabric.

• Select a thread which is one shade darker than your fabric because when worked on a garment,
a thread appears lighter.

• The higher the number on the count of a thread, the finer it is. When stitched, the thread should
be well set into the fabric to give a firm long-lasting seam. If the thread is too heavy for the fabric, it
will remain on the surface and tear out quickly, reducing the durability of your garment.
Selection of needle, thread and stitch for various fabrics

S. Type of Fabric Type of Thread Needle Number of

No Number Stitches per
. inch*
1 Lightweight: lawn, voile, chiffon, Mercerised cotton, 9 or 11 10–15
organza, fine lace silk, nylon, extra
fine (any fibre), size:
60–100
2 Medium weight: crêpe, velvet, Polyester, cotton- 11 or 14 10–12
gingham, stretch fabric, terry, wrapped polyester,
brocade, linen, corduroy, some mercerised cotton,
types of denim size: 50–60
3 Heavy: wide rib corduroy, terry Polyester, cotton- 16 or 18 8–12
cloth wrapped polyester,
heavy duty (any
fibre) size: 30-40
4 Very heavy: canvas, upholstery Polyester, cotton- 16 or 18 8–12
fabric wrapped polyester,
heavy duty (any
TYPES OF INDUSTRIAL
SEWING MACHINE

• There are a lot of sewing machines used in

garment industry. So it is essential to know about
sewing machine and it enables you to properly use
your machine and makes troubleshooting easier Flat-bed machine Raised bed machine
when problems do arise.
• The industrial sewing machines are mainly 4
types according to the design of their arm and
needle post .They are
Flat Bed
Post Bed
Cylinder Bed
Off the arm
Post bed machine Cylinder bed machine