Wig Making and

Styling

01-FM-9780240813202.indd i 12/30/09 4:48:57 PM

01-FM-9780240813202.indd ii 12/30/09 4:48:57 PM
 Wig Making and
Styling
A Complete Guide for Theatre & Film

Martha Ruskai
Allison Lowery

AMSTERDAM • BOSTON • HEIDELBERG • LONDON

NEW YORK • OXFORD • PARIS • SAN DIEGO

SAN FRANCISCO • SINGAPORE • SYDNEY • TOKYO

Focal Press is an imprint of Elsevier

01-FM-9780240813202.indd iii 12/30/09 4:48:57 PM

 Focal Press is an imprint of Elsevier
30 Corporate Drive, Suite 400, Burlington, MA 01803, USA
The Boulevard, Langford Lane, Kidlington, Oxford, OX5 1GB, UK

© 2010 Martha Ruskai and Allison Lowery. Published by ELSEVIER Inc. All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any
information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Details on how to seek permission, further information about the
Publisher’s permissions policies and our arrangements with organizations such as the Copyright Clearance Center and the Copyright Licensing Agency, can be
found at our website: www.elsevier.com/permissions.
This book and the individual contributions contained in it are protected under copyright by the Publisher (other than as may be noted herein).
Main cover photograph by Akin Abayomi, Dreadheadphoto.com. Model: Kelly Jackson

Notices
Knowledge and best practice in this field are constantly changing. As new research and experience broaden our understanding, changes in research methods,
professional practices, or medical treatment may become necessary.
Practitioners and researchers must always rely on their own experience and knowledge in evaluating and using any information, methods, compounds, or
experiments described herein. In using such information or methods they should be mindful of their own safety and the safety of others, including parties for
whom they have a professional responsibility.
To the fullest extent of the law, neither the Publisher nor the authors, contributors, or editors, assume any liability for any injury and/or damage to persons or
property as a matter of products liability, negligence or otherwise, or from any use or operation of any methods, products, instructions, or ideas contained in the
material herein.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Ruskai, Martha.
Wig making and styling: a complete guide for theatre and film/Martha Ruskai, Allison Lowery.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-0-240-81320-2
1. Theatrical wigs. I. Lowery, Allison. II. Title.
PN2069.R97 2010
792.02’6—dc22 2009042441

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN: 978-0-240-81320-2

For information on all Focal Press publications

visit our website at www.elsevierdirect.com

10 11 12 13 14 5 4 3 2 1

Printed in China

01-FM-9780240813202.indd iv 12/30/09 4:48:58 PM

 This book is dedicated with gratitude to Lenna Kaleva

02-DEDICATION-9780240813202.indd v 12/30/09 5:54:26 PM

02-DEDICATION-9780240813202.indd vi 12/30/09 5:54:26 PM
 Table of Contents
Acknowledgments ix Chapter 3 Taking Accurate Measurements 35 Variation 2 78
Proper Head Measurements 35 Variation 3 78
Chapter 1 Wig-Making Terms, Tools, and Mini Fronts 79
Techniques 1 Transferring Head Measurements to a
Block 39 Silk Blenders 79
Glossary of Wig and Hair Terms 1 Plastic-Wrap Head Tracings 41 Nape Lace 81
Wig-Making Tool Kit 8 Padding Out a Block with a Plastic Tracing 44 Piecing Together Wigs 83
Wig Styling Tool Kit 10
Hairpins and Clips 11 Chapter 4 Facial Hair 47 Chapter 6 Building a Wig from Scratch 87
Rollers/Curlers 12
Creating the Pattern for the Facial Hair Types of Foundations 88
A Well-Equipped Wig Area 12
Piece 47 Building a Circumference-Band
Handling a Wig 15
Adding Texture to the Hair 49 Foundation 89
Blocking a Wig 15
Individual Hairpiece Characteristics 53 Vegetable Net & Caul Net/Circumference
Blocking Hard-Front Wigs 15
Eyebrows 53 Band/Right-Side-Out/Hand Sewn 89
Blocking Lace-Front Wigs 16
Mustaches 54 Variations on Circumference Band
Basic Hand Sewing Stitches 17
Sideburns 55 Foundations 93
Beards and Goatees 56 Variations on Nape-Piece Foundations 98
Chapter 2 Wig-Making Basics: Learning to Cutting and Styling the Facial Hair 58 Variations on One-Piece Foundations 102
Ventilate 19 Applying the Facial Hair 61 Notes About Adding Hair 102
Removing the Facial Hair 62 Parts, Crown Swirls, and Cowlicks 103
Ventilating Needles and Holders 19
Miscellaneous Foundations 104
Loading Your Needle 20
Chapter 5 Fronting and Other Adaptations of Balding Wigs 105
Wig-Making Laces and Nets 20
Commercial Wigs 63 Fringes 107
Fronting Laces 20
Summary 108
Back/Foundation Laces 21 Types of Fronts 63
Other Wig-Making Materials 22 The Human Hairline 65
The Direction and Stretch of the Lace 23 Changing the Hairline 68 Chapter 7 Partial Wigs, Toupees, and
Types of Hair 23 Building the Fronts 68 Hairpieces 109
Basic Wig-Knotting/Ventilating Variation 1 69 Toupee 109
Technique 24 Variation 2 69 Graying Temple Pieces 110
Double Knotting 27 Variation 3 69 Pull-Throughs 110
Ventilating Positions 28 Truing the Hairline 69 Falls 111
Hair Density and Ventilating Lace Direction and Hair Growth Type 1 111
Patterns 29 Direction 70 Type 2 112
Ventilating Direction 30 Quick Front: A Step-by-Step Example 74 Type 3 112
Untying Knots 30 Standard Front 75 Type 4 113
Color Blending 31 Deep Fronts 78 Switches 113
Sewing with Invisible Thread 32 Deep Front Variation 1 78 Kabuki-Inspired Lion Wig 114

vii

03-TOC-9780240813202.indd vii 12/30/09 10:37:17 PM

 viii ◗ Table of Contents

Full-Bottom Wigs 115 Chapter 10 Creating a Hairstyle 151 Combining Hair and Non-Hair Materials 182
Making Custom Weft 115 Break the Hairstyle Down into Sections 151 Example of the Step-by-Step Process of
Understand the Hairstyle 152 Creating an Unusually Shaped Wig 183
Chapter 8 Wig Application and Removal 119 Interpreting Research 152 Gallery of Non-Hair/Fantasy Wigs 186
Hair Prep 119 Draw Your Setting Pattern 154
Set Your Wig 155 Chapter 13 How to Get a Show into
Long Hair 119
Comb Out the Set 155 Production 189
Short Hair 121
How to Hold and Put on a Lace-Front Wig 123 Teasing and Stuffing 156 Analyzing and Understanding the Play 189
Applying Hard-Front Wigs and Falls 125 Wire Frames 157 Forms of Drama 190
Removing Wigs After a Performance 126 Styling Men’s Wigs 159 Basic Plot Structure 190
A Word About Quick Changes and Tap Wig Setting and Styling Tips 160 Scene Breakdowns 191
Dancing 127 From Set to Style: Examples 162 Organizing Your Show Notebook 193
Example 1: Cosette in Les Miserables 163 Character Design 194
Chapter 9 Wig Styling Techniques 129 Example 2: 1930s Hollywood Movie-Star Group Relationships 195
Look 164 Designing an Overall Look for a
Elements of a Hairstyle 129 Production 196
Straight Hair 130 Chapter 11 Choosing, Cutting, Coloring, and Budgeting for a Production 197
Wetting and Drying 130 Perming the Hair 165 Wig Jobs and How to Get Them 198
Flat-Ironing and Roller Setting 130 Charging for Your Work 200
Steaming the Hair 131 Dyeing Wigs and Wig Fibers 167
Wavy Hair 132 Universal Hair Color Systems 167
American Cosmetology Hair Level Chapter 14 Care and Maintenance of Wigs 201
Finger Waves/Water Waves 132
Marcel Waves 134 System 167 Cleaning Wig Laces 201
Pin curls 136 Types of Hair Color Products 167 Cleaning Facial Hair 203
Waving and Crimping Irons 138 Dyeing Protein Fibers 169 Touching up a Wig 204
Curly Hair 139 Using Fabric Dyes 169 Washing Wigs 205
Roller Setting 139 Preparing Hair Bundles for Dye 170 Washing the Wig off the Block 206
Roller Setting: Ringlets/Sausage Curls 142 Dyeing Synthetic Fibers 171 Washing the Wig on the Block 208
Roller Setting: Spiral Rolling Perming Wigs and Wig Fibers 172 Storing Your Wigs 209
Techniques 143 Cutting Wigs 173 Storage Systems 210
Medusa Set 145
Braids 146 Chapter 12 Hair that Isn’t Hair: Wigs Made from Subject Index 213
The Standard Basic Braid 147 Other Materials 175
French Braids 148 Bases and Foundations 176
Reverse French Braid 148 Fosshape™ Bases 178
Rope Braids 148 Other Types of Bases 179
Herringbone Braids 149 Covering the Cap 180
Dreadlocks 149 Building a Structural Support Frame 180

03-TOC-9780240813202.indd viii 12/30/09 10:37:18 PM

 Acknowledgments
Acknowledgments go out to:
Stephanie Williams Caillabet; the University
of Texas Department of Theatre and Dance;
Texas Performing Arts, especially the
costume shop; Fletcher Opera Institute; the
University of North Carolina School of the
Arts, especially the Dance Costume
Department; the Blanton Museum of Art;
the Alabama Shakespeare Festival;
Pennsylvania Shakespeare Festival and
deSales University; Parkway United Church
of Christ; Wake Forest University Baptist
Medical Center; Linda Pisano, Lara
Southerland Berich, Robbie Stanton, Mark
Rampmeyer, Jennifer Mooney Bullock,
04-ACKNOWLEDGMENTS-9780240813202.indd ix
Caitlyn Thomson, Kevin McCullom, and the
Producing Office for West Side Story; Opera
Carolina; Bradley M. Look; Amanda French;
photographers Mark Rutkowski, Will Willner,
Amitava Sarkar, Lee A. Butz, Ken Grant, and
Akin Abayomi; Susan Mickey; James Glavan;
Kelly Yurko; Christina Tollefson; Frederic
Burleigh; Bill Brewer; Cheryl Thomas; Rita
Freimanis; James Allbritten; Sam Flemming;
Patricia Mueller; Casey Gallagher; Lisa
Higgins, Nancy Dickson; Laura Horowitz;
Patricia Wesp; Darren Jinks; all of the
performers and models who generously
allowed us to use their images and wore
their wigs with such panache; Ray, Martha,
and Scott Lowery; Lois Melina; Beth Ruskai;
the Wednesday Whistling Women; and most
importantly, the students and alumni who
continue to inspire us and teach us,
especially Tammy Potts-Merritt, Tera Willis,
Kara Meche, Christina Grant, Anna Fugate,
Kaylan Paisley, Scott Darby, Sarah Baloche
Redding, Sarah Lankenau, Jessica
Gambardella, Elisa Solomon, Jessica Mills,
Chelsea Bunn, Jenny Valentine, Beauty
Thibodeau, Nichole Annis, Sarah Shade,
Adam Ulrich, Heather Koslov, Tiffany Knight,
Carrie Lynn Rohm, Amanda Ramirez,
Ming-yen Ho, Joshua Conyers, Natalie
Maynard, Michael Ferguson, and Renee
Horner.
ix
12/30/09 4:59:55 PM