1954 How To Wear Your Hair

1 VintageHairstyling.
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abridged republication of the
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Bobby Pin Blog 2 1 VintageHairstyling.com

HOW TO WEAR
Your Hair
CONTENTS
Pull Up A Chair — And Let’s Talk
About Your Hair .........5 - 6
Hair Through The Ages .........7 - 11
The Structure And Function Of
Your Hair and Scalp ........12 - 14
The Facts About Hair ........15
Hair Godliness Starts With The
Shampoo ........16
VintageHairstyling.com
Brushing For Beauty ............17
If You Have A Dry Hair & Scalp ..18
If You Have Oily Hair & Scalp .....19
If You Have Fine Hair ............20
If You Have Coarse Hair ............21
If You Have Dandruff ............22
About the Author What Type Are You? ............23
The 8 Basic Face Types ............24
Joe Bonomo wrote prolifically in the The Perfect Oval Face ............25
mid-20th century about dieting, health and The Square Type Face ............26
physical fitness. The Rectangular Or Oblong Face 27
Born to Turkish immigrants in 1901, The Diamond-Shaped Type Face 28
Bonomo began his career as a stunt man and actor The Elongated Diamond Face ......29
in the 1920s. He retained his fame in magazine The Pear Or Triangular Face .......30
advertisements offering bodybuilding books and The Heart-Shaped Type Face .......31
advice by mail order. The Round Or Circular Face ........32

Pull Up A Chair...
CONTENTS - (continued) And Let’s Talk About
Select Your Hair Style ..................33 YOUR HAIR!
Which Hairdo Does The Most
For You? ..........34 - 36
Man has always considered woman’s hair
Designing Your Style Hairdo To
one of her loveliest assets. It was used to lure
Fit Your Type ..................37
and trap him early in civilization’s history. Man’s
Part Your Hair Correctly ..................38
concepts of womanly attractiveness have changed
Correcting Faulty Features ...............39
little through the centuries. He still regards a
Correcting Cowlicks And Sparse
woman’s hair as her crowning glory.
Hairlines ..........40 - 41
He will always thrill to the look and feel of
Tips For The Mature Woman ...........42
VintageHairstyling.com VintageHairstyling.com
it. With more potential than ever for irresistible
Tips For Teenager ..................44
hair appeal... with the gifts of modern devices and
Let’s Talk About The Back ........44 - 45
artifices to assist... no woman today has an excuse
If You Wear Glasses ..................46
for not making the most of her hair.
Hair Styling To Fit Your Figure .......47
Consider your hair the same as some rare and
Ribbons and Bows ..........48 - 49
priceless fabric. It is yours and yours alone to mold into
For A More Colorful You ..................50
shape... not only to show off your best features, but
Testing For Allergies ..................51
detracting from others!
Color Rinses For Fast Changes 52 - 53
You drape a fabric this way
Caring For Bleached Hair .........54 - 55
and that... you study each effect...
Hair Cutting To Your Order .. .....56 - 57
soon you recognize how the material
Tricks In Hair Setting ..........58 - 59
must be cut and sewn to bring your
individual beauty to the surface.
So it is with your hair. It can
make a truly individual type of you.
Knowing what to do comes first...
knowing hot to do it follows easily
then. We have published this pocket manual on hair for Hair Through
this very reason: to give you all the “what” and “how”
answers to your hair problems.
The Ages
As you go through the pages, you will learn why Hair and its part in
you must pamper your hair to the peak of good health and glorifying womanhood...
keep it that way before you start with anything else... how often men, too... is a
to judge your face type and what lines will suit you best. fabulous story. Artists
You will see hundreds of ways to wear your have gained renown
hair... and read countless tips on such hair grooming painting lovely ladies in
problems as coloring, shampooing, settings... learning puffs and curls. Poets have
“How To Do It” yourself to bring out the “New You”. written endless sonnets
Promise to use this wealth of information to praising burnished locks.
Pauline Bonaparte
add to your own hair beauty. Never for a moment Napoleon’s wife wore Song writers have made
a simple hairdo to
forget that femininity and lovely hair go hand in hand... a maiden’s tresses the
enhance her beauty.
and no woman is too young or too old to capitalize on subject of countless ballads.
it. A change in your hair style, for the better, can do Wherever we look, recorded history and the arts pay
more for your beauty and charm than all the powder glowing tributes to beautiful hair and tell fascinating tales
and paint in the world! Now, get going! about the women it adorned.
Travel far and wide today, from civilization
NOTE: If you have any physical ailment or infirmity... or into the hinterlands of
have any doubt about the advisability of applying, to your an aborigine world, and
particular case, the principles laid down on the pages in nothing will make a stronger
this book... be sure to submit it to your doctor first. bid for your attention
than milady’s hairdo. Each
country... each race... each
era... reveal an altogether
different and individual
Duchess de Montbayon
went in for pin curls
and very wavy bangs

approach to its styling. Every significance; but they do recall
example is an insight into the artistic to mind pictures and words
genius, sparkling originality and masterly touch of the describing an elaborate mode of hair arrangements
peoples on the local scene. and an era of great elegance never since equaled.
Likewise, the name of Irene Castle will undoubtedly
Famous beauties, from Biblical times down,
owe much of their impact on history to their hair. At
live because of hair.
the mention of Lady Godiva, first thing you think of It was she who headed the crusade for short,
is her handsome long, flowing locks... not what she simple bobs... freeing modern woman from many
did. Marie Antoinette or Madame Pompadour may centuries of emphasis on long, often intricate hairdos.
not be impressed in your memory for their historical Today’s women are very lucky, indeed!
SOME OF THE MANY INTRICATE HAIRDOS OF THE 17th CENTURY

This elaborate wedding coiffure won a prize in a From Las Vegas comes the “Atomic” hairdo,
hairdressers’ contest in Berlin. The hair is arranged supposedly to symbolize the mushroom cloud
in a sort of ladder effect over a jeweled band which effect. The model is Terry Tune.
reaches from the chignon to a feather ornament
atop the head.
Cleopatra, and her sisters of adept in concocting bizarre or

every generation before and many beautiful coiffures for the women.
since, shared a common problem Poorer classes continued to develop
and quest... how to curl straight their own skills in hairdressing so
hair and to change its color. For that they, too, might enjoy the nod
centuries they had to put up with of approval.
crude methods and nature in the Slowly but surely the profession
raw... but never did they give up. Always, they aimed of modern hairdressing emerged.
to improve their looks by enhancing the appearance of
their beauty. VintageHairstyling.com
Today you have the experience and know-how
of these specialists to rely on
Bits of twigs and mud more than ever. Thanks to the
were among the first laboratories and clinical studies
curling devices... berries of manufacturers, every woman
and roots lent their color. can have what a King’s ransom
Precious coins and gems, could not provide for the Queen
feathers, threads of gold of Sheba... a permanent wave or a
and silver, flowers... these new hair color.
and many more tidbits Yes, womankind today still
served as ornaments. Slaves counts heavily on the beauty of her
or servants gained special hair to add to her particular type
favors and trusted places of attractiveness. It is her passport
in a retinue of a wealthy to an exciting individuality... a
household if they were priceless heritage.
Another recent Paris creation, designed by

This unusual hairdo was designed by Jean Clement, is the “Eiffel Tower”. Hairdresser
Antoine and is called the “Recamier”. The Clement was inspired while having dinner in the
model is Miss Europe. tower restaurant.
the structure and cross section
function of hair of hair strand
When highly magnified, cross-section
In the many pages that follow, you will be of a hair strand shows: (1) Longitudinal
learning about your hair from the beauty flat, horny cells; (2) Circular calles of
fibrous sheath; (3) Glassy membrane;
and grooming standpoint. However, you (4) External root sheath; (5) Henley’s
layer; (6) Huxley’s layer; (7) Inner root
should also know some of the scientific sheath; (8) Cuticle of root sheath.
facts that make your hair what it is.
Seen under a microscope, hair is another of The follicle, embedded within the skin, is
nature’s winders... complex, fragile in appearance... but made up of a series of tubes held closely together. It
remarkably strong. has a set of sebaceous glands, which empty directly
Hair is composed of a horny substance... similar against the embedded hair, and a muscle. The action
to our nails. The growing portion lies under the skin. of this muscle sometimes makes the hair seem to
Each hair had three separate parts; (1) the outer cuticle stand on end. The papilla is at the base of the follicle
composed of flat, horny cells; (2) the middle cortex of and holds the blood vessels of the hair follicle.
longitudinally arranged spindle-like hornified cells, and;
(3) the inner medulla, composed of modified polygonal
Hair grows new and old hairs from within
the very same follicle. Some hair reaches a ripe old
cells held loosely together. age; others die young. When regrowth lags, because
Hair as no feeling... no blood supply... no nerve no new hairs are forming to replace the old, we start
supply. Therefore, it can be cut without the feeling of any to become bald. No application of any kind, to the
pain... and continues to grow. The diameter of a hair strand hair shaft, will alter the growth of the hair within the
varies from 1/140th to 1/150th of an inch... with each follicle. Hair growth is related to and dependent upon
strand having wide variations on one person’s head. the function of the gland activity, the condition of the
an enlarged scalp and general health of the body.
strand of hair
the hair and
When magnified, the hair shaft reveals
the flat, horny cells which lie on the skin structure
surface in overlapping formation, An enlarged and cut-away drawing of
very much like fish scales. These cells the skin shows: (1) the sebaceous, or
contain no pigment but are translucent. oil-producing, gland; (2) the aerector
muscle; (3) sweat gland; (4) hair
strand; (5) scarf or to (epidermis) skin
(6) true or real (derma) skin; (7) the
hair follicle.

cutaway view
about hair
of hair and
skin structure Here are some very interesting and
This 3-dimensional cutaway view
scientific facts about your hair:
shows the (A) hair strand projecting 1. It takes 14 days to grow 1/3rd inch of hair. Growth
above the skin surface; (B) epidermis,
scarf or top skin layer; (C) aerector varies on different parts of the scalp and with different
muscle; (D) sebaceous oil duct gland;
(E) sweat gland with outlet emerging individuals. The rate of hair growth decreases once it
at skin surface, and; (F) follicle or cell
where hair is produced. The walls of
reaches a certain length.
the follicle are made up of epidermis. 2. The average rate of growth is about 2/3
The color of hair varies according to the variety of an inch per month. Coarse, wiry hair
of the pigment present. There is no scientific proof for may grow 3/4 of an inch... and fine,
the often-told tale that hair can, or ever did, turn white wispy textures may grow no more that
overnight. Scientists can give no single positive reason, 1/4 inch per month.
also, for baldness... or certain other types of hair loss. 3. Hair may grow from 45-50 inches in
Neither do they know what factors prevent new-growth. length on the crown and back of head,
They have discovered, however, that persons exposed to
an overdose of X-rays do not have a regrowth. They also
but 18 inches is the limit on sides.
4. Flaxen-colored hair is considered
know that certain drugs, when taken internally, act upon the finest of all hair varieties. Black,
the sympathetic nervous system and cause loss of hair. the coarsest. The degree of fineness
The study of hair goes on... and on... and on. in texture is in direct relation to the
With it is the never-ending search for the cause and the contour of the hair... whether round,
cure for baldness and other scalp and hair disorders. It oval or flattened.
is a safe prediction that some one of these days we will 5. Most hair consists of a combination
have the answers. of many varied colors... which when viewed together on
The coloration of hair is due in part to hereditary the scalp blend into one.
or racial factors. Therein after, it 6. There are 11 elements that are essential to
is a matter of how much of one or growth and good health. Hair possesses 7.
two different pigments nature mixes 7. The scalp contains an average of 11,000
together to form your hair color. There hair strands. Blondes usually have more,
are the dark brown pigments. Their redheads have fewer.
absence altogether tends toward blonde 8. A hair strand is stronger than you think.
hair. Their heavy and complete mixture It is capable of supporting an average of 5
tends toward black hair. oz...and stretched 1/5th of its length.
hair godliness starts brushing
with the shampoo for beauty
How you cleanse your Brushing exercises
hair... and with what type of the scalp and, thereby,
shampoo... deserves your most contributes to a normal
thoughtful care. Scrupulous function of the oil glands.
Shampoo your hair once cleanliness of scalp and hair adds It helps to distribute the
a week or more often to much to its health and natural natural oils throughout the
prevent accumulations of oil,
perspiration, odor and soil. beauty... and determines, to a hair shaft, and to remove the
large extent, the type of results surface soil that everyone
you can expect in styling, manageability, permanent picks up every day. Done Vigorous and daily brushing achieves
waving and coloring. regularly, brushing actually anecessary
natural sheen and glow that is so
for healthy scalps and natural
No two hair textures are alike. Nor is the function polishes every hair to a hair luster.
of the glands which influence the condition of your scalp.
gleaming brightness.
Therefore, the shampoo you use must be exactly right for Contrary to what many women think, brushing
your hair and your scalp. Manufacturers have spent a great does not remove or reduce the curl from a permanent.
deal of time and money experimenting with shampoos to Nor does it alter the lines of a set. Instead, it makes the
do an effective job for specific types. Study the contents, permanent or set even more natural and lovely.
labels and directions before making your choice. Coarse, wiry, strong hair can take vigorous
Wet your hair thoroughly with warm water. brushing two or three times a day. Thin, fine hair
Work the shampoo should be brushed lightly. Frail hair, such as that which
into a lather. Rinse with has been over-permanented or over-bleached, should
clear water. Repeat the be brushed with care. Oily hair requires less brushing
shampoo. Finally, rinse than dry hair. And normal hair should be brushed two
until every bit of the or three times a day.
soap is removed. Towel Choose a good brush with sturdy bristles that
dry. Rub the scalp and will attack the hair with firmness. Keep the brush clean
hair vigorously. all the time. After each use, rub its bristles clean with
A shampoo under a shower is best. a turkish towel. Once a week submerge the bristles in
In a bath, shampoo your hair first.
Be sure you rinse well to remove all soapy water, rinse and hang up to dry.
vestige of soap and curds.
if you have if you have
dry hair oily hair
and scalp and scalp
Dry skin and dry hair often go hand in hand. The Several set of glands, or an infection, or a combination
cause may be a deficiency of the secretion of the pituitary of both, may be conspiring to cause an oily scalp... and
gland... or some other systemic condition. It is often best to consequently an oily hair condition.
check with your family physician... and have him determine To counteract this, scrupulous cleanliness with
what may be causing this condition. Oftentimes, by trying plenty of shampoo soap and water at very frequent intervals
to prescribe for yourself may be dangerous... and the end may give you temporary relief. If the condition is very severe,
result may cost you many more dollars in treatments than it is suggested that you contact your family physician... so that
the charge your doctor would make for the friendly visit in he might discover the real root of the trouble. The condition
the first place. may be either a physiological or psychological one... and a
If your doctor is satisfied there is no special cause,
try the following routine for relief: VintageHairstyling.com
friendly chat with your doctor will help determine this.
However, if the condition is not severe,
Select a super-fatted, neutral soap for your regular
additional added shampoos, with the proper type of
shampoos. There are many good ones now on the market
soap for an oily condition, will greatly help... if not,
specially prepared for this dry condition. Follow directions
probably, altogether clear it up.
carefully... which usually instruct you to be sure to rinse
your hair thoroughly. Avoid hot dryers and excessive heat A great number of manufacturers offer splendid
from lamps. Instead, the best suggestion is to towel dry shampoos for this type of scalp and hair condition. Select the one
your hair. Reduce all exposure, of your hair, to the sun by best for your condition and follow the directions set forth carefully.
keeping your head covered. Avoid all lotions that contain If you have determined that condition is not severe,
alcohol and fast drying solutions. you may follow these directions. Use 1 part bicarbonate of soda
Invest in a good oily scalp cream... and apply to 100 parts of water to make a weak solution of hair solution.
carefully to every part of the scalp. Brush your hair Wash your scalp and hair well, massaging your scalp. Repeat
vigorously and often... preferably both in the morning and this procedure each day for three days. Then, give yourself a
at bedtime. The tug at your hair and scalp will stimulate shampoo of tincture of green soap. Apply this to the hair and
sluggish gland activity... and will, probably, encourage a leave on for a few minutes before adding the water to shampoo.
freer flow of natural oils to the surface. Massage your scalp well. Then, rinse thoroughly and towel-dry.

if you have if you have
thin or thick or
sparse hair coarse hair
There is nothing more exasperating than baby You are very fortunate, indeed, if you have thick
fine or very thin hair. In baby fine hair, the growth may hair. Actually, it is only a matter, then, of subtracting
be normal... but because of the texture, the amount the unnecessary bulk... in the proper areas... to give you
seems to appear subnormal. Oftentimes, this condition truly beautiful hair with manageability and coif variety.
is accompanied by the problem of cowlicks. Refer to the Thick and bulky hair, in itself, is not a thing
pages entitled “Correcting Cowlicks & Sparse Hairlines” of beauty. If worn in its natural abundance... it has a
to remedy this. tendency to create the illusion... if not the fact... of a
However, in a case of baby fine hair or thin hair, large head that is entirely out of proportion with the
there are a number of ways to make it appear more remaining part of the figure. Reductions in both
luxuriant and attractive. length and bulk should be left to your hairdressers...
Never let your hair grow long. This will flatten and repeated every few weeks... depending upon how
to your head... absorb natural scalp oils and have a quickly your hair grows.
tendency to become stringy. Never arrange your hair in There are a number of various hair thinning
sleek, close-to-head lines. This actually accentuates your devices on the market today that are inexpensive... if
fineness and thinness. you prefer to do it yourself. However, be careful that
Instead, wear your hair short. Arrange to have you do not do too much thinning. Follow each of the
it cut into graduated short lengths all over your head. manufacturer’s directions carefully.
Use thin rods when you are giving yourself... or getting Groom your thick hair in simple and
a permanent. This will aid in creating bulk. Make your smooth... close-to-the-head lines. Any waves
pin curls uniformly round. Never set your hair with a should be both wide and subtle. All curls should be
heavy lotion. both large and smooth.
Your most effective styling disguise is in creating an Make your permanent the large curls variety.
illusion of full and casual lines. Brush your curls into soft Pin curls, too, should be large to create a broader and
ringlets on a major portion of your head... with smoothness freer movement in the brushed-out arrangement.
going back of the hairline at the sides or on the crown.
if you have what type
dandruff are you?
Dandruff has ruined many a Everyone fits into
woman’s otherwise meticulous one of the eight recognized
appearance, and has contributed face types. The shape
to a great amount of her loss in of your face determines
self-confidence. For, how can any woman feel her best whether you are an oval,
when she knows there are always dusty scales about square, oblong, diamond,
her shoulders and back... with plenty more to come the pear, heart, or a round
moment she adjusts her hair or her hat? However, the lovely. In addition,
condition is one that will submit to a consistent routine. width and height of your
Simple dandruff is a bran-like scaling of the horny forehead, shape of your chin, and structure of your cheek
layer of the scalp. The scales are dry and white to gray in and jawbones are factors... as well as figure measurements.
color. Often an itching scalp is part of the menace. Many Once you establish where you belong, what you
medical authorities believe it is of bacterial origin. Other do with your hair can be a great influence in dramatizing
causes, nevertheless, may be too frequent shampooing, your face type. The goal is always toward presenting as
lack of thorough rinsing, the constant use of too much more oval... the one perfect shape. Appearance, and the
lacquer, frequent use of a heavy amount of setting lotion... hair frame is a willing ally in developing this illusion.
or the use of shampoos containing an unbalanced and Each type is discussed and illustrated on the pages which
excessive amount of free alkalies. follow. Study this for greater know-how on yourself.
To correct the condition, try to remedy the
cause. Begin by watching the effect on your scalp when
you use a new, mild shampoo. Avoid lacquer and lotions
and excessive heat on the scalp. Having discovered the
cause, apply an ointment containing sulfur, resorcin,
mercury, and tar. (Many good products are available).
Follow directions... which usually suggest leaving it on
all night... following by a tar soap shampoo in the morn.
Occasionally give yourself a hot oil treatment.
The
Perfect
Oval
Face
By all standards the
oval shape face is considered the
most perfect contour. Add to
this pretty feature, and there’s no
the 8 basic limit to the enchanting loveliness
face types the combination of hair style and
oval face can attain. An extra
Look at yourself in the mirror... and endowment, lucky you, may be a
determine the particular face type you widow’s peak. Make the most of
are... according to the illustrations as all this precious beauty.
listed here on this page. They are: Yours is the one face
shape that takes to a center part like
1. Perfect or Classic Oval
a duck to water. With it you play
2. The Square Type Face up your widow’s peak and perfect
3. Rectangular or Oblong oval contours, and concentrate all
4. The Diamond Type Face attention on your features.
5. Elongated Diamond Type Keep your hair style
6. Heart Shaped Type Face simple. Draw it off your forehead
7. Round or Circular Type and up and off the sides. Large
8. Pear or Triangular Type but very subtle waves and a low
chignon will give you a flattering
Now, turn to the page that covers madonna appeal.
your particular type and follow the Never wear bangs
suggestions as they are outlined. because you’ll be hiding the
widow’s peak, and destroying the
pleasing oval shape.
Avoid fluffy waves on

top that add length. The
short cut should make
you a real beauty.

The The
Square Rectangular
Type Or Oblong
Face Face
If you fit into this Yours is a long,
category, you will probably squarish face, with the upper
have a wide, squarish part broader than the lower.
forehead, and square Your chin may taper toward
jawbones. The width of the round. Again, the perfect
your forehead, cheeks and oval is your target, and this is
jawbones will be the same.
not too remote if you coax
As always, you will aim
toward acquiring a more your hair into correct lines.
ovalized look. Since your face is
Soft waves, soft longer than it is wide, avoid
high top effects which would
curls, fullness at the sides...
all these create a pleasing only increase the length from
curved feeling that take chin to top of the hair.
away from the squareness. Instead, keep your
Be careful, however, not to hair flat on top, wear a bang
let the fullness go to tight, for its widening effect if you
small ringlets. like, and let the sides be fairly
High top effect close to the head but low and
starting from a side part
over the ears.
will draw attention from the
width of your forehead and
tend to lengthen your face.
Avoid a squared hairdo. Avoid the short cut.

Try for oval style that Keep hair soft and fluffy
adds roundness to to minimize severe lines
compensate. of length.
The The
Diamond Elongated
Shaped Diamond
Face Face
Many beauties join You belong to this
you in this face group. All of group if you have a narrow,
you tend toward wide cheek tapering forehead with width
bones, narrow, tapering through the jawbones, and
forehead and oblique jawbones chin tending to the squarish
which taper to an oval or a or pointed. The upper half
pointed chin. of your face is narrower than
Hair style balance, to the lower.
attain a more oval feeling, tries To create a more oval
for greater width in the upper look, wear a waved bang.
and lower portions. A bang, This will immediately add
either straight or waved, will width across the top where
extend the top width. Close- you need it... and break the
to-the-head lines over the ear length of your face.
should be a feature, with the Keep the hair close
ends widening out below. to your head at the sides,
Or you might feel that using a simple form of curls
a high, fluffy bang across your or waves for their softness
forehead, and a modified page and flattery. Avoid sleek end
boy end treatment is more akin treatments, rather let soft
to your personality and type. curls or brushed ringlets fan
This will also create the same out all around.
illusion of an ovalized face.
Avoid the bared Avoid a hairdo that adds

forehead. Conceal with to length. Fluff at sides
bangs or curls. Fluff up and add to forehead.
of sides.

The The
Pear or Heart
Triangular Shaped
Face Face
If you are a pear-type, Literally you are
the upper half of your face will wearing your heart in your
be narrower than the lower. face... how you frame it can
Your problem, then, is to create make you outstandingly
better balance. individual and appealing.
A most appealing If you belong in this
camouflage which will admit classification, your face will
you into the oval group be broadest across the cheek
emphasizes height and width bones, your forehead wide and
across the top. broad, your jawbone curved,
There are many design and your chin oval or pointed.
details which will accomplish You have two choices.
this... choose whatever is most If you wish to
flattering to your type. A soft wave accentuate your broad, high
and curl treatment with a definite cheek bones, you may wear
high and full effect to one side will wide, full bangs. Or, you may
create the necessary width. minimize this width by going
Swing the hair up for height on one side of the
from your temples. Keep it head, starting from a side part.
close to the sides. Adopt fairly Keep your ears
short hair with wispy forward covered by waved fullness
movements over the lower at the sides. However, don’t
jawline to detract from its width overdo on fluff and let the
and to add a feminine flare. length go below the jawline.
Center the hair interest Avoid bangs. Hairdos

at each side in curls and should be of soft, fluffy
waves. Avoid flat look. waves, particularly at sides.

The
Round or
Circular
Face
The round face is usually
short with a wide forehead, curved
jawbones and chin. The width of
the forehead, cheek and jawbones
are about the same. Your objective
is to create an illusion of a more
oval shape by slenderizing the chin
and lengthening the face from the
top of the coif to your chin.
Your best bet is a hair
style featuring height at the top,
a side part, soft but close-to-the-
head sweeps of the side hair, and
a sleek back. A few curls dipping
over the hairline will reduce the
width of the forehead, but never,
never wear straight-across bangs.
Or you might try a
diagonal side part, with the Select Your
hair dressed high on one side,
and closer on the other. Avoid
Hair Style
small curls, never pull your hair
tightly back, and stay away from
a center part.
Avoid wearing hair with a

flat look. Fluff and curl it
with a forehead interest.

Which Hairdo Does
The Most For You!
Which hairdo does the The fact that hair can
most to enhance your face and be worn up or down... forward,
individuality? Which hairstyle sideways or back... long or short
will be the most manageable
considering your hair type, VintageHairstyling.com
is not so important as which way
you can and cannot wear it. Start,
condition and hair texture? These now, to select your hair style from
are the basic questions you should the hundred or more photographs
ask yourself. in this book.

designing your style
hairdo to fit your type
Now that you have been introduced to each of
the different types of hair... and each individual
type of face, you might think that you know
just what style will do the most for you.
But, there’s still more to come. Let’s invest 10
minutes to a study of ourself in the mirror.
Let’s study ourself and every conceivable
angle... front, back, left and right side. Let’s
determine, for once and for all, the exact face
type we are... whether we have thick hair or
thin hair, oily, normal, or dry hair... whether we
can wear our hair short or long, combed up,
down, sideways or back. A careful appraisal
of our hair and face is very important.
A good hairstyle will bring out the very best
lines... it will hide your deficiencies and place
the accent on your good assets. If you look
good in curls, style your hair accordingly.
If straight hair becomes you, then feature
it this way. A thin and short neck may be
hidden with curls, in the back, to create the
illusion of thickness. Soft ringlets, combed
longer, help the thin and long neck. Beware
of curls on the back of round heads. They
only help to accentuate the negative.
Hairstyling is creative... and is not as
simple and easy to some women... as it is
to others. If you are undecided, consult
with a good hair stylist... for an investment
at this point can mean a greater and more
beautiful, glamorous you!
part your correcting
hair correctly faulty features
A center part divides the Proper hair outlines and
face itself and calls attention details of design can do miraculous
to every feature. It should be things to improve or even conceal
worn by those with fairly regular certain irregularities of features.
features, and avoided by all Try some of these tricks, and see
others. The beauty with an oval for yourself. For instance, if your
face should certainly capitalize on face is large with proportionately
this by adopting the center part to large features. Build the frame of
make her even more attractive. your hair about your face so that
If the top of your head is it is full. The reverse, small waves
narrow, rounded and somewhat and curls and a sleek frame, tend to
oval, start your part at the outside edge over either brow. shout the size of your features.
Slant it inward as it approaches the crown. This will create the A small face and features seem larger when frame
illusion of greater width at the hairline. and style details are kept small and close. If you have a very
Should your head be broad and flat, start the part low forehead, cut your front hair so that it can be waved
over the center of either brow. Slant it outward as it moves and curled. Tease or rough the under portion so a bang
back on the head. This will tend to narrow the whole effect. effect can be produced with the ends of the bang just barely
If your nose is crooked, a part directly at the standing over the hairline. This will give your hairdo height,
opposite angle will deceive the eye by creating the illusion and at the same time make your forehead seem higher since
of pleasing alignment. no one will be able to see where your hairline actually meets
your forehead.
If you have a high,
rounded or receding forehead,
almost the same plan can be
followed. This time, however,
allow the bang effect to be longer
and extend it lower on the
forehead. Set the bang into soft,
puff curls to hide the natural line
of your forehead.

Left — Cowlicks or distortions in the hair Right — Stay away from center part hairdos
growth are common at the forehead where if you would effectively hide the cowlicks on
one, two or even three may appear. Here, each side of your temples, and enjoy the
with a knowing hand, the one on each side comfort of knowing your coif is attractively
could be expertly concealed. in place.
correcting
cowlicks and
sparse hairlines
A cowlick means nature has gone ornery with from the cowlick since that tends
your otherwise normal hair. A tuft is turned up or to accentuate the distorted hairline.
awry usually over the forehead, or the hairline may be The accompanying illustrations
distorted. A contrariwise growth at the crown can be will give you other hints how best
single, double or triple cowlicks. At the neckline the hair to disguise your cowlicks.
formation may split in different directions at one, two or
even three points.
Fortunately, most women do not have to struggle
The hairdo that is best for
you can cleverly disguise these
imperfections. The basic principle
with multiple cowlicks, but even one constitutes a is the use of a knowing hand!
problem. A cowlick should never be exposed. Your hair Remember however... whatever
can be arranged most attractively to conceal it simply result you achieve... your hairdo
by altering the lines and striving for new balance with must harmonize with your facial
your facial contours. For instance, if the cowlick is on type. You can solve your cowlick problem... and still
the left side, part your hair on the right. If on the right, develop an individual hair style that is just right for you!
part your hair on the left. Never comb your hair away
Above — Cowlicks frequently appear across
the neckline. Unless the coif line is designed to
disguise them, an otherwise attractive hairdo
can be ruined by stubborn hairs which insist on
contrary routes.
Right — A simple answer for good looks and

Right — A smart and flattering cover up for a bad ease in handling hairline cowlicks is the short
forehead hairline is always a soft bang. The line may bob. Let it sweep down from the crown to end
go straight across or split to leave the center free; in fluted grace just below the cowlicks.
again it might concentrate on the one bad side.

tips for
mature women
Aim for dignity,
smartness and a display of
experienced taste. Therefore,
regardless of the popular
hairstyle trend of the
moment, never let your hair
trail down your neck and
onto your shoulders. tips for teens
You will add to
your attractiveness tenfold With the bloom
by keeping your hair short of youth on your side,
at the sides and tapered in the casual in hair styles
back. This does not mean a belongs to you. But, make
mannish shingle, but rather a
contoured shaping that lends
itself to sleekness and an
it the casualness that shows
care... care in cleanliness,
polished luster from daily
upped look. brushing... and neatness,
whatever the length.
Should you elect
a long bob, have your hair
thinned and shaped often so it
conforms to a prescribed line
rather than fanning out hit or
miss. If your preference runs
to more stylized lines in short
hair, have a good basic cut,
then a permanent for body.
Don’t sacrifice your priceless
loveliness for extreme or
sophisticated hairdos. Stick
to soft, feminine lines. Have
fun with bangs, if they suit
your face type.
LET’S
TALK
BACK
There’s a back to your and you want to be attractive
hair style, too, remember? from all angles.
Treat it kindly... for what Short or long, you
you do with your hair there
can multiply the effects of
any frontal arrangements.
have many choices for the
beautiful back designs, Take
your pick from those shown
Besides, you’re being here... or experiment with
constantly observed from the ideas of your own.
rear as well as from the front,

if you wear hair styling to suit
glasses your figure
Basically, there are only Here are a few additional points
a few points to follow to bear in mind while you are
in making your coif as planning your new hair style. You
attractive and suitable as any will see at a glance how logical they
worn by women without are, and how much they can improve
glasses. Stick to outlines overall appearance.
best for your face type. If Stout Body: If you are also short, make every effort
you wear bangs avoid any to arrange your hair so it will elongate your body. Try for
too low or too heavy so as upward effects on top, and in the direction of your hair at
not to crowd down on your the sides. Keep your hair short and close to your head. If,
forehead and come to close however, you are also tall, avoid anything but a flat treatment
to your glasses. Keep the side simple so that you can wear on top. In either case, never wear small tight waves, tiny
glasses under or over your hair without disturbing the line.
Choose your glasses for their becomingness of shape
ringlets, tight curls, or the other extreme, bushy hair. Your
best bet is to use large, soft waves, a sleek diagonal swirl of
and color. Treat them as an ornamental accessory rather the hair in back, and a slight up-turned end effect.
than a disfiguring necessity. Make your eyes as important Thin Body: We include here the very extreme of
as possible by stressing the shape of your eyebrows. Accent thinness; therefore, you want to detract from this by giving
them with a careful addition the illusion of greater fullness throughout. If your features
of brow pencil, if your natural allow for it, a fluffy bang is good.
line is spare or drab. Use a Long Neck: This can be
subtle tough of color on your concealed and flattering by wearing
eyelids, and mascara the your hair longish and full to shorten
upper lash. the distance from nape to shoulder.
If your budget Avoid any bare look back of the ears.
permits, have at least two Thick Neck: Create the illusion
pairs of glasses of different of height and a more slender neck by
shapes and color. going in for high hairdos. Leave the
ears partly or entirely uncovered.

ribbons and bows make your
for the cool look own bows
Ribbons and bows are becoming Choose the color for
the recognized password for added your ribbons to harmonize with
summer hair beauty. A feeling of your apparel or accessories...
coolness is created by the backward and your mood. The width should suit your hair style. Solid
sweep of the hair away from the face. colors in pastel shades are best, or in gold or silver.
The ears are exposed, and smooth finger waves at the
temples are flattering and feminine. Above — To make a Flat Bow, use a ribbon
1 1/2” wide. Make 6 loops as above.
In the back, the hair is held in place Flatten 3 loops on either side of center.
by a ribbon or comb with ribbon Left — To make a Puff Bow, use a
attached. The ribbon bows may be 3” wide taffeta or satin ribbon and
make 6 short loops. Puff out each
selected to match your dress, your loop with fingers.
sweater or blouse or what have Right — To make a Stand-Up Bow, use 3/4
you... or a matching ribbon bow yd. of velvet or satin ribbon about 1” wide.
Form loops along top of comb as shown.
may be added to your purse. For Wind each loop between comb teeth with
a piece of thread of matching color. Make 5
really beautiful effects, select pastel or 6 loops close together. Tie knot in thread
after last loop
ribbons in two harmonizing shades
and use them together in creating
your bows.
Above — If you wear a chignon, cover it with a net and
secure it with bow-trimmed hair pins. Comb bows may be how to make the loop bow
tucked along the top or at one side; or a ribbon may be
tied around it.
A small bow requires 15” for two loops. A large bow
requires 24” of taffeta or velvet ribbon, from 3” to 4”
wide. Lay ribbon on flat surface in 2 folds (A) with right
Left — It is important to be side up. Cover with open hand (B) and gather folds
pretty in the morning, too. For between 1st and 2nd fingers. Tie at center. Attach a
that “pleasant” look at the single small bow to hair pin, bobby pin or barrette.
breakfast table, part your hair Attach 2 small bows close together at top center of
in the center and draw it up on comb for a more sophisticated look.
either side of the head. Tie each
section with a bright ribbon.
Right — For coolness’ sake, tie daughter’s curls

high on her head, too. Done in a jiffy, you both
will look neat — and be cool — all morning!
for a more colorful you
Is the color of your hair
getting you down? Perhaps
hindering your chances for a good
job? Interfering with romance? testing
Worry no more. You can give for allergies
yourself a wonderful lift, a new
appearance and personality and a People may react differently to hair coloring
completely refreshed outlook by products... just as they may to various foods, drugs
changing the color via safe, simple-to-apply hair tint. and cosmetics. This allergic or hypersensitive condition
Manufacturers of hair tints, bleaches and rinses have is unpredictable... and can develop suddenly. For that
simplified their products so that they can be used safely and reason, it is always best to give yourself a patch test before
expertly by even the most inexperienced. Where the hair is a using any hair coloring product.
problem condition, however, and there is doubt in your mind
First: Wash a small area behind the ear or at the inner
about the result of home tinting, it is best to leave the work to
fold of one elbow with soap and water. Pat dry with
your hairdresser.
When you decide to change the color of your hair,
clean towel or cotton.
make up your mind that you will keep it looking well all the Second: Make up a small test solution of the hair-
time. That means retouches on the growing-out hairs as often as coloring product... following directions on the package.
they become conspicuous. And cutting down on sun exposure. Tint should be mixed in the exact proportion to be used.
Going hatless has its joys, but it will streak and fade your tinted Mix only a very small portion... less than s teaspoon.
hair in fast order. Third: With cotton-tipped applicator stick, apply this test
If you’ve never tinted, solution to area to be tested. (Area should be about the
bleached or rinsed before, be cautious size of a quarter.)
with the shade you select. It must Fourth: Wait for a period of 24 hours. If any itching or
tie in with your natural coloring... sensitivity develops, DO NOT TINT!
complement your complexion. Rather
restrain yourself in tone until you see
how you and your friends like the
change. It is always easier to darken
than to lighten a shade. If you’ve been
white for years, a blond tint is more
flattering than a heavy shade.
color rinses... beautify gray hair, use a platinum
for fast changes shade to corrected the yellow
discoloration in gray and white
A quickie change in hair heads... or a steel gray shade to
color with a color rinse is another tone down the white, correct the
blessing for drab, discolored and “dirty” gray and leave a lovely,
other types of faded hair. Unlike shimmering steel gray.
the tint, a color rinse is designed to If you want to glorify
last only from one shampoo to the next. In this manner, you bleached hair, use platinum to
can tip-toe into the whole coloring idea... and wade into the add a glamorous tone to the hair.
more permanent tint at a later date... when you have decided If you want to tone down a reddish cast, use either a
exactly what shade will do the most for you. platinum or steel gray to conceal the unpleasant “off-shade” cast.
However, don’t expect to do the same drastic color If you want to conceal gray... or intensify the color
changes that you can do with tints. The intent, generally, is of your hair, use black, brown, dark brown or red brown...
to highlight your own color, tone down an unpleasant or too
vivid natural color... and cast an aura of radiance about your
whichever is closest to your natural color. Your color will
be enriched, made deeper and more lustrous, with any gray
locks. The amount of color you use in your rinse depends on strands blended into the lovely new shade.
your hair texture. Course hair requires more color; fine less. If you want to brighten your hair, use one of the
If you aren’t sure how a mixture will work on your flattering brightening colors to add lustrous, sparkling color-
hair, make the first rinse tones. For brightening with accents of red, use dark auburn,
application with less light auburn or red blonde. For golden accents, use golden
color; adding more for brown, golden blonde or
the second if the effects light blonde.
are not what you want.
If you want to
A color rinse will enrich and
intensify the color of your hair,
brighten it, conceal or beautify Every manufacturer has their
gray. It won’t rub off when dry. own color range and method of
Yet, you can easily wash it out application. Study the instructions
in the next shampoo, unless the very carefully. Most end hair is
hair is unduly porous. Start out more porous than other parts,
with a thorough shampoo, rinse therefore, if you apply color rinses
free of all soap and oil, towel full strength the ends will absorb
drying but leaving slightly moist. too much of the color.
Caring for bleached hair
or dyed hair
If you have bleached or dyed hair, yours tends many, many types now on the market... or you can make
toward the dry and brittle. Often the scalp is sensitive
and easily irritated. Too much exposure to strong
light and sun frequently fades or streaks the color. The
your very own. Here’s how:
Separate the yolks and whites from four to six
eggs, depending upon the texture and thickness of
wrong shampoo can also affect the shade... particularly your hair.
in dyed heads. When wet, the hair is inclined to mat Beat the whites to a froth, then the yolks,
and tangle considerably. finishing this up by folding both together. Add one-half
A good shampoo routine is to wet with tepid pint of warm water and mix together well. Divide this
water, pouring shampoo soap on slowly. Work with solution into two containers, equally.
fingers of hands under the hair... not on the top as is Now, get ready for your egg shampoo by first
usually done when a shampoo is being given. washing hair thoroughly with a pure, gentle soap or
Finish off with good rinsing to make sure that all liquid soap. Rinse hair thoroughly. Then, cover hair
soap has been removed from both the hair and scalp. with egg shampoo formula from first container. Rub
Next, give yourself a finishing rinse with either the hair and massage the scalp exceedingly well. Next,
vinegar or lemon... and while the hair is still damp, rinse off... letting hair drain. Now, apply second half
apply a good lubricating dressing. This will make for far of preparation following the same procedure that you
greater manageability in combing. did before.
Egg shampoos are especially beneficial to this Rinse thoroughly and towel-dry hair well.
type of hair. Select the best one for yourself from the

Hair Move thumb only with short up and down
motions. Never let the scissors close completely. Practice
Cutting first and, if it helps, place forefinger (1st finger) inside
to your order scissor triangle (between handles) to serve as a stop.
Move scissors back and forth along hair strand so that
Hair cutting is not the mysterious and precarious the hair will be tapered at ends... not square.
venture we’ve been led to believe it is... but, rather, Now, with the correctly tapered lock, make a pin
something you can do at home easily, effectively and curl, carefully counting the number of times the hair is
economically... as part of your private program for beauty. wrapped around your finger. This will serve as a guide
The secret is a foolproof new method known as for the remainder of your pin curls.
the “taper cut.” It is borrowed from the professionals and Cut the rest of your hair in the identical
simplified to enable you to work on your own hair. All manner... each wound the same number of times.
you need are these simple ingredients: (1) A large mirror; After the curl is made, the end left over after winding
(2) A pair of sharp scissors... professional shears are best is the exact measurement to be cut off with the tapering
but not essential; (3) A large sheet, towel or cape... even a scissors motion. Keep all curls small, and after each
plastic raincoat will do; (4) As many bobby pins or clips is wound and cut, insert bobby pin or clip to hold it.
as you may need to set your hair in the usual style, and;
(5) An old newspaper to spread on the floor... to make
Set your pin curls in even rows, in the same identical
manner illustrated for hair setting. Moisten all curls
cleaning up easier. with water-saturated cotton. Let dry. The result will be
Begin with dry hair. Pick up a strand of hair a uniform,professionally trimmed head which can be
about 1-inch square at the front hairline. To taper cut, combed into your favorite hair style. Truly a custom
grasp your scissors with the thumb and ring finger (As cut... without the customer cost!
shown in illustration.)
straight professional
square taper
cut cut
Here’s all you need to
do a professional job
in your own home:
not (1) Mirror but
like (2) Scissors like
(3) Bed Sheet
this (4) Bobby Pins this

Tricks
in hair
setting
Hair Setting Can Be An
Easy Chore IF You Follow
These Simple Directions.
By knowing just a few simple tricks, and with twist the hair around the left forefinger. Start close to
practice, you can master the problem of doing your very roots... and finish up rolling ends onto finger last. When
own hair setting... equal to a real, professional job. the roll is completed, flatten the curl... turning it clockwise
if plunge is to the left... counter-clockwise if to the right.
1. Oddly enough, the first step in hair setting is not the Then, hold curl in place and fasten with bobby pins.
shampoo. Five extra minutes, before the shampoo, in 6. Work with small 1/2 inch patches of hair... trying to
brushing will pay off in undreamed dividends. Then, keep the 2nd and 3rd... and all other curls in the same
give yourself a shampoo. Scrub and rinse your hair at
least twice. You can be sure of clean hair only when it
squeaks during the rinsing.
row in a straight line. This will produce an even flowing
wave. If you desire more curls, take less hair than 1/2
inch directed... for less curl more than suggested. Do
2. Comb out your hair, and redampen with a waving front next, working from top part line down... then
lotion or sprinkle of water. Be sure it combs out freely sides.. then crown last. When finished, pat with cotton
without any snags on knots. soaked in waving lotion or spray, if you wish.
3. Divide the hair into five sections; front, crown or top If you wear rolled bangs, top fluff, or high effect...
right side, back and left side. Do back first, the front, the use a stand-up pin curl formation. Wind strands from
sides. Do top crown last. Fasten each section with bobby ends to scalp. Instead of pinning flat, however, fasten
pins, to keep hair in place... brushing top section over face. in standing position with pin across base. If you want a
4. Starting at part line, and working backward to frothy end finish, metal or plastic curlers may be used.
neckline complete entire back section... pick a section When finished, cover hair with a net and allow it to dry
of hair about 1/2 inch in diameter. If thoroughly. Later, remove pins, brush,
right handed, place the left forefinger then comb your coif into place.
at the base of hair. If left-handed, do You’ll be surprised... if you
just the opposite. are careful to follow these rules... how
5. Hold hair at end, between right easily you’ll transform your hair into a
thumb and forefinger... and carefully real “shining glory”.

Find everything you need
for beautiful vintage hair!

Bobby Pin Blog 62

1954 How To Wear Your Hair

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1954 How To Wear Your Hair

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1 VintageHairstyling.

The reader is encouraged to take all safety

Bobby Pin Blog 2 1 VintageHairstyling.com

Bobby Pin Blog 6 7 VintageHairstyling.com

SOME OF THE MANY INTRICATE HAIRDOS OF THE 17th CENTURY

Bobby Pin Blog 8 9 VintageHairstyling.com

Cleopatra, and her sisters of adept in concocting bizarre or

Another recent Paris creation, designed by

Bobby Pin Blog 12 13 VintageHairstyling.com

Bobby Pin Blog 18 19 VintageHairstyling.com

Avoid fluffy waves on

Bobby Pin Blog 24 25 VintageHairstyling.com

Avoid a squared hairdo. Avoid the short cut.

Avoid the bared Avoid a hairdo that adds

Bobby Pin Blog 28 29 VintageHairstyling.com

Center the hair interest Avoid bangs. Hairdos

Bobby Pin Blog 30 31 VintageHairstyling.com

Avoid wearing hair with a

Bobby Pin Blog 32 33 VintageHairstyling.com

Bobby Pin Blog 34 35 VintageHairstyling.com

Bobby Pin Blog 38 39 VintageHairstyling.com

Right — A simple answer for good looks and

Bobby Pin Blog 40 41 VintageHairstyling.com

Bobby Pin Blog 44 45 VintageHairstyling.com

Bobby Pin Blog 46 47 VintageHairstyling.com

Right — For coolness’ sake, tie daughter’s curls

Bobby Pin Blog 54 55 VintageHairstyling.com

Bobby Pin Blog 56 57 VintageHairstyling.com

Bobby Pin Blog 58 59 VintageHairstyling.com

Bobby Pin Blog 60 61 VintageHairstyling.com

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