HAIR CUTTING WEEK 1

HAIR CUTTING TERMINOLOGY

Please read and learn the terminology below.
o Guideline - is a pre-cut hair strand used as a guide that is followed with other hair strands divided into sections in order to create a
pattern of a balanced hair cut.
Haircutting (also hair shaping) - is the process of cutting, tapering, texturizing and thinning using any hair cutting tools in order to
create a shape.
Trimming - removing only split ends with scissors or razor (about 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch).
Layer cutting - the opposite of a blunt cut. The hair is cut under a certain angle and falling in a cascading style.
Tapering (also feathering) - shortening the hair in a graduated effect. This expression is used for very short hair cuts. Many men ask
for a tapered cut on the neck and back of their head.
Natural hairline - hair is tapered very closely to the head, leaving the hairline in its natural stage. No blunt cutting on the back of the
neck is used.
Cowlicks - directional hair growth. Mostly in the nape area and on top of the head.
Blunt cut - a straight haircut at the bottom. Hair is not layered.
Slithering (also affiliating) - process of removing hair in a sliding manner with razor or slightly opened scissors. Used in a hair
texturizing.
Thinning - decreasing the thickness of a very heavy hair.
Nipping - cutting the hair with angled scissors ("v" shape) instead of straight across and thus giving a hair little more fullness.
Styling - blow drying, roller setting, teasing, brushing and arranging the hair in a style according to a client's face and head shape.
Teasing - back-combing the heir toward the scalp.
Finger styling - only fingers (no styling tools) are used while blow-drying and styling the hair. Usually with short or curly hair.
History of Hair cutting
o Barbering was introduced to Rome by the Greek colonies in Sicily in 296 BC, and the barbershop quickly became a very popular
center for daily news and gossip. Morning travel was a part of the Roman Daily Routine which was as important as haircutting,
shaving, and public bath.
o Around 1200 BC, iron was discovered and from those time onwards, barbers started using manual face clippers and razors made of
stainless steel. Barbers used them to cut hair faster. It also gave a clean and even cut. This technique of haircutting became popular
among young boys and soldiers.
o The Egyptians were the first to take a blade to their hair. The 180-degree haircut is rather simple. Its a procedure where you
literally take the hair straight up and cut straight across creating a short to long layer. Mainly used on people with longer hair.
o The first barbering services were performed by Egyptians in 5000 B.C. with instruments they had made from oyster shells or
sharpened flint. In ancient Egyptian culture, barbers were highly respected individuals. Priests and men of medicine are the earliest
recorded examples of barbers.
o However, short hair on men was introduced in World War One for soldiers. The trench warfare engaged in from 1914 to 1918
exposed men to flea and lice infestations, which prompted orders by the higher command to cut hair short, establishing a new
military tradition.
When was the first hair cut?
o The ritual first haircut was a pre-Christian pagan-Slavic tradition which survived in Poland well into the 18th century. This
first haircut traditionally took place between the ages of 7 and 10 and was conducted by either the boy's father or a stranger,
who would thus enter into the boy's family.
What does cutting hair symbolize?
o Such constant meanings are shown in a folk tale, the mental lives of patients, clinical studies by other authors, and certain
practices of other cultures. The cutting of hair symbolizes separation from a mothering object, castration, and reparation.
What is the Filipino tradition of first haircut?
o Baby's first haircut
It says that the one who will cut the baby's hair for the first time should be intelligent, so that the child will grow up to be
intelligent as well.
What is first haircut called?
o There are many performed upon arrival of a newborn baby. One of them is the baby's first hair cut known as Baabri. In other
Indian cultures it is known as Mundan.
What cultures don't cut their hair?
o Religions such as Orthodox Judaism, Rastafarianism, and Sikhism all prohibit haircuts, the removal of facial hair, or a
combination of the two due to beliefs that hair is sacred or a gift from God.
How did people cut their hair in olden days?
o Before the invention of scissors, how did ancient civilizations cut their hair? They used shears. Think of it as 2 knife blades
connected by a springy piece of metal. They date back to Mesopotamia.
What is the spirituality of cutting hair?
o Cutting hair balances Crown chakra or sahasrara, which is located at the top of the head. this chakra represents higher
consciousness and our connection to Divine, God, Universe. Astrologically, the Aries sign is associated with crown chakra. So, it
brings clarity & direction to life.
Why did Koreans not cut their hair?
o Korean ancestors from the Joseon Dynasty have never had a haircut in all their lives to be respectful of their parents. “Our
bodies, bones, and skin are all received from our parents; therefore, filial piety starts from preserving them to not be damaged
or injured.”
Theology of hair
o The significance of hair is woven throughout the Old and New testaments. In ancient Israel, hair signified important features of
identity with respect to gender, ethnicity, and holiness.
What does cutting hair symbolize in Japan?
o Cutting off hair in ancient Asia (Japan, China, Korea & possibly some other Asian cultures) symbolizes being banished or
rejected from their home. In the more modern age that is now, cutting long hair into a short cut means forgetting the past,
leaving the old and starting anew.
 What religion does not cut hair in the Philippines?
o Apostolic Pentecostals are the strictest of all the Pentecostal groups, according to Synan. Like most Pentecostals, they do not
use alcohol or tobacco. They generally don't watch TV or movies either. Women who are Apostolic Pentecostals also wear long
dresses, and they don't cut their hair or wear makeup.

FUNDAMENTALS IN HAIRCUTTING
PERSPECTIVE:
 Vertical perspective consists of profile, facial features, front, sides back of the head. It reduces weight in the shape. This creates an
illusion of length. Gives the sense of length to a shape and create a flatter silhouette. It is used to check for balance. and symmetry
and how high to lift the hair. when cutting a square layer, typically vertical is used. It elevates the hair at a 90degrees vertical
angle.
When the hair is cut across the ends, it creates an even flat line so when the section of hair falls, the layers softly blend into the
length horizontal shows the shape of the haircut when all hair is lifted straight out from the head.
when texture is desired, elevate the hair at a 90 degrees vertical angle and point cut with shears held perpendicular to the section.
the technique will create more dimension with soft. edges that blend with the change on elevation. it is ideal for clients with thick
or coarse hair with concerns of hair being too wide or poofy.
 Horizontal perspective It leads the path of the eye from left to right. It builds weight into a shape and creates width. it is typically
cut at the perimeter for a blunt cut. for more visual impact and variations of weight. point cutting technique on elevated at 90
degrees. the hair will fall at the same angle which it was cut yet with more graphic line. it is a great way to add depth and volume
to hair cuts.
DIMENSION:
 A function of the range of tones in your hair. A head of hair that is all one colour is flat or lacking dimension.
Depth - refers to the lightness or darkness of hair color. The lighter the hair, the thinner it can look. The distance of hair
extends from the scalp length of hair.
Height - The vertical dimension of length and weight within a haircut. This is controlled through elevation as well the cutting
line.
Width - The horizontal dimension of weight and length within a haircut over direction.
DISTRIBUTION OF WEIGHT:
 Vertical distribution of Weight can be distributed upwards or downwards depending on elevation. Reduces density (weight)
most used when cutting layers can also be distributed forward and backward depending on over-direction.
 Horizontal distribution of weight, from front to back, and is controlled by over direction, tension, and finger angle. the
horizontal movement of hair that’s directed forward/backward from its natural fall. is the horizontal weight distribution with
the haircut.
ELEVATION:
Lifting of the hair from its natural fall. The degree that the hair is lifted vertically from its natural position, distributes weight up and
down. Creates graduated and layered techniques. Elevation controls the vertical characteristics of a haircut.
OVER-DIRECTION:
Shape is viewed from bird’s eye view. Over direction is the horizontal movement of the hair that is directed forward and or backward
from its natural fall. Over direction creates a distribution of weight horizontally.
HAND AND BODY POSITIONS:
body position is divided into 2 parts: lower/upper
the position of your body, feet, and hands control the creation of a haircut
 LOWER BODY POSITION control the geometric shape by controlling how you over direct the hair forward and/or backward.
 UPPER BODY POSITION controls how you lift, move, and elevate the hair. Controls technique.
 HAND POSITION controls elevation and tension. Controls what method of cutting we use.
 FINGER ANGLE determines the heaviness of a technique vertically and the steepness of the geometric shape horizontally.
GUIDELINES:
A stationary guide is a point to which all the hair is directed before cutting. A stationary guide is used in long layered haircuts like
the shag. This guide does not move during the haircut. A traveling guide is one that moves with the area being cut. With a traveling
guide, hair that has been previously cut is used to indicate the length of the next area to be cut. Haircuts like the basic circle cut and
the pixie cut use a traveling guide. The result is layers with a uniform length.

HAIR GROWTH PATTERNS

Everybody’s hair grows in different ways, and direction can be a critical factor for the hairdresser when cutting. Hair can grow in an
adverse direction to the clients desired hair style, and ignoring these hair growth patterns when cutting can cause significant
problems.
For example: Cutting a cows lick too short may cause the hair to stick out. Cutting a strong crown or double crown too short may
cause the hair to lie flat.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF HAIRLINES?
o Low Hairline- hairline is too close to their eyebrows.
o Middle Hairline- there is a standard gap between their
eyebrows and forehead.
o High Hairline- broad foreheads
o Rounded Hairline- U-shaped hairline
o Uneven Hairline- The pattern follows a zigzag pattern
and usually looks like a W.
o Widow’s Peak- M-shaped hairline
o Straight Hairline- The hairline looks well defined, and
there are no baby hair, dips, or ends.
 o Cowlick- A cowlick is a small section of hair that grows in the opposite direction to the rest of your hair. 
HAIR AND LIFESTYLE
Every one’s lifestyle varies in many ways and is taken into consideration when offering a particular style to a client.
For example: If a client lives a very athletic lifestyle or regularly works in a dusty atmosphere and finds themselves washing their
hair daily, a style which is both short and convenient to wash should be considered.
HAIR TEXTURE
Face shape, lifestyle and growth patterns are an important part of the
elimination process when choosing an appropriate style. Hair texture is
important for choosing the right style, but also the right technique.
For example: A client with fine, straight hair would not require thinning as
this may prove pointless and cause the hair to become flyaway.
TAKING HAIR TYPE INTO ACCOUNT
Fine: Generally, thin hair should have the least amount of layering, so keep
things blunt and short. “My favorite would be a blunt bob with limited texture
and layers to maintain strength in your length,” Pollack says.
Medium: A variation of lengths are possible here, Pollack says. Adding layers
or texture is ideal to help with movement and minimal weight removal.
Thick: Styles can vary depending on texture or type of hair. You can get away
with tons of layering, as long layers help with weight removal, debulk density, and help with day-to-day styling.

Learning Task #1: Draw and identify the hairlines of your groupmates.
NAME OF FAMILY MEMBER DRAW THE HAIRLINE OF YOUR FAMILY MEMBER HAIRLINE

Learning Task #2: Identify the hair texture of your groupmates.

NAME OF FAMILY MEMBER HAIR TEXTURE

Learning Task #3: Answer the following questions.

1. When was the first hair cut?

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2. What does cutting hair symbolize?
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3. What is the Filipino tradition of first haircut?
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4. What is first haircut called?
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5. What cultures don't cut their hair?
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6. How did people cut their hair in olden days?
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7. What is the spirituality of cutting hair?
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8. Why did Koreans not cut their hair?
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9. What does cutting hair symbolize in Japan?
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10. What religion does not cut hair in the Philippines?
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Learning Task 4: Essay. Answer the following questions briefly.

1. Why must a stylist consider the client’s body shape when cutting hair? Explain.
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2. Why does the hairdresser need to follow the principles and guidelines in every haircutting? Explain briefly.
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3. How can the hairdresser analyze the hair condition and face shape of the client?
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