SCISSORS ANATOMY

BASIC PRINCIPLES OF HAIR CUTTING

Cosmetologists should have a thorough understanding of haircutting because haircutting is a

basic, foundational skill; it will build trust and loyalty between a stylist and her clients; it allows
you to duplicate an existing cut; and a good haircut will make clients happy.

Tools required for cutting :

Scissors ,Cutting comb , Spray bottle , Crocodile section clip , Wide tooth comb , Round brushes ,
Paddle brush , Apron , Serum , Dryer , Dusting brush , etc .

Etc …
 ANATOMY OF THE HEAD

Reference Points : points on the head where the surface of the head changes, such
as the ears, jawline, occipital bone, or apex; helps you find the balance within a
design so that both sides of the haircut turn out the same; used to establish design
lines .

The reference points are:

 Parietal ridge - widest area of the head; starts at the temples and ends at the
bottom of the crown; also referred to as crest area; found by placing the comb
flat on the side of the head .
 Occipital bone - bone that protrudes at the base of the skull .
 Apex / Top - highest point on the top of the head ..
 Crown- the area between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge; on
many people this is the site of whorls or cowlicks; pay close
attention to the
crown when haircutting.
 Nape- back part of the neck; hair below the occipital bone; can be found by
making a horizontal line across the occipital bone.

 Sides- includes all of the hair from the back of the ear forward, below the
parietal ridge.
 Bang area / Fringe - also known as fringe area; the triangular area that
begins at the apex and ends at the front corners .
Sections , Subsections for hair cutting

 Sections : - Dividing the hair into small parts for cutting is called as sections .
 Subsections : - smaller sections within a larger section of hair; used to
maintain control of the hair when cutting .

There are mainly 3 types of sectioning :

1 . Primary sections :

a. Central profile ( Centre of forehead to centre of nape )

b. Radial section (ear to ear from highest point of head )

2 . Secondary sections :

a. Horse section
b. C section
c. Triangle section / Pyramid section
d. Box section

3 . Subsections :

a. Vertical
b. Horizontal
c. Diagonal forward
d. Diagonal back
e. Curve forward
f. Curve back
g. Pivoting
h. Parallel
 PRIMARY SECTIONS
 CENTRAL PROFILE

 RADIAL PROFILE
 QUADRANTS
 SECONDARY SECTIONS
 HORSE SHOE

 C SECTION
 TRIANGLE SECTION

 BOX SECTION
 SUBSECTION
 VERTICAL SECTION

 HORIZONTAL SECTION
 DIAGONAL FORWARD

 DIAGONAL BACK
 CURVE FORWARD

 CURVE BACK
 PIVOTING

 PARALLEL
 Lines and Angles :

 Line - a thin continuous mark used as a guide

 Angle - space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point;
important element in creating a strong foundation and consistency in haircutting .

The two basic lines used in haircutting are straight and curved.

There are three types of straight lines:

1. Horizontal lines - parallel to the horizon or floor; direct the eye from one side the
other; used to create one-length and low elevation haircuts and to add weight .

2. Vertical lines - up and down lines; perpendicular to the floor; remove weight to
create graduated or layered haircuts; used with higher elevations .

3. Diagonal lines - slanting or sloping direction; between horizontal and vertical;

used to create fullness in a haircut and to blend longer layers into shorter layers .

 Beveling and stacking- used with diagonal lines to create angles by

cutting the ends of the hair with a slight increase or decrease in length .

Elevation : - also known as projection or lifting; the angle or degree at which a

subsection of hair is held or elevated from the head when cutting .

 Elevation creates graduations and layers and is usually described in degrees. In a

blunt or one length cut there is no elevation (0 degrees). Elevations below 90 degrees
build weight; elevations of 90 degrees or higher remove weight or layer hair.
1. 0° in comb : No elevation / degree to create strong line , ( Thin hair )
a. Usually used in one length cut ( straight , U ,V )

2. Graduation : Hair is lifted to a certain level to create built up weight , The degree range
0 to 89 degree difference between two hair is short ( Medium hair )
3. Layer : Hair is lifted perpendicular to the head ( 90 to 180 degree )
This is mainly done to remove weight , difference between two hair is long.
( Thick hair / High density )
 NAME OF THE HAIR CUT AS PER DEGREE

 0° : Blunt / One length ( Give only shape )

 0° to 45° : Low graduation cut

 45° : wedge cut

 45° to 90° : High graduation cut

 90°to 135° : Round layer cut

 135° : long round layer

 135° to 180° : Maximum layer cut ( Gives bounce )

 180° : Shag cut ( for wavy , long hair )

 Layering : They are of 3 types . When we lift all hair up ward the shape it’s
layering

1. Concave : Done in long hair cut

2. Convex : Done in short hair cut
3. Flat / Square : Done for medium cut
Cutting line : - the angle at which the fingers are held when cutting the line that
creates the end shape; also known as cutting position, cutting angle, finger angle, and
finger position. The cutting line can be described as horizontal, vertical, diagonal or by
degrees.

Guideline : For accurate hair getting , following guideline is very important

There are 3 types of guideline :

1. Stationary guideline : It is a fixed guideline for multiple sections , mainly used for one
length , face farming etc .
2. Travelling / mobile guideline : Here guideline change section by section , mainly used
in transient cut , round layer etc .
3. Over direction : Change direction of hair while maintaining degree is called over
direction .
a. Forward over direction : when back hair are diverted at front .
b. Back over direction : when front hair are diverted at back .

CLIENT CONSULTATION :

A consultation is a conversation between the stylist and the client where the stylist finds
out what the client wants and then is able to offer suggestions and professional advice
about the most suitable haircut.

Face Shape :

To analyze the shape of the face, pull all the hair away from the face with a clip or
wrap the hair in a towel; look for the widest areas, the narrowest areas, and the
balance of the features *Remember that hair shrinks. Always cut wet hair ¼” to ½”
longer that the desired length; curly hair shrinks ½” to 2”.

Hair Analysis :

There are four characteristics that determine the behavior of hair. They are: hairlines and
growth patterns, density, texture, and elasticity.

 Hairline - hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along the face, around the
ears, and on the neck
 Growth pattern- direction in which hair grows from the scalp; also referred to as
natural fall or natural falling position
 Wave pattern - amount of movement in a hair strand
 Hair density - number of individual hair strands on one square inch of scalp;
usually described as low , normal , or high .
 Hair texture - diameter of each hair strand; described as thick , medium, or fine .
Hair cutting precautions

 Hair must be uniformly wet , dry or damp before cut .

 You must use equal tension while cutting hair ,
 Always follow guideline for neat haircut .
 Sections and partings should be uniform and clean .
 As the cut follows , lifting of hair should be at same angle .
 Head position should not very much .
 Cover to client nicely so that her cloth get protected .
 Hair science
Definition of hair :

 Hair is any long cylindrical, keratinized strand /shaft which grows on the 1st
layer of skin called Epidermis and grows from the 2nd layer of skin called
Dermis. Due to absence of the nerve there is no sense of feeling in the hair shaft
which grows above the skin surface.

Functions of hair :

a) Protection
b) Regulation of temperature
c) Evaporation of perspiration
d) Acts like a sensory organ
e) Facial expressions
f) Visual identification
g) Helps in attraction
 Composition of hair : Physical
 Keratin - 80 %
 Moisture & Lipids - 15 %
 Vitamins & minerals - 4%
 Pigments ( Melanin , Color ) - 1%

 Keratin : It is a fibrous structural protein. It is insoluble in water. It is made up of

many amino acids.

 Moisture : It is made up of water and lipids which comes from sebum and oil.

 Vitamins and minerals :

 Vitamin A : It saves from dryness of hair and helps in hair growth.

 Vitamin B : It helps in hair growth and gives strength to hair.
 Folic acid : It improves cell growth in follicles.
 Iron : Passes oxygen from Haemoglobin.
 Selenium : It holds the color in hair.
 Silica : Keeps a good blood flow.
 Zinc : Helps hair tissue growth and also helps in proper scalp functioning .
 Other vitamins and minerals include : Vitamin C , Vitamin D, Vitamin E, Biotin
,etc.

 Pigments: It gives color to our hair like red, blue and yellow. Our hair is a
combination of these 3 colors.

Composition of hair : chemical CONHS

 Carbon - 51 %
 Oxygen - 21 %
 Nitrogen - 17 %
 Hydrogen - 6%
 Sulfur - 5%
 Division of hair
 HAIR SHAFT : The hair Part located over the body surface of the skin is called
hair shaft . It has no nerves. This is our department; we work on this part of hair.

 HAIR ROOT : The hair Part located beneath the body surface of the skin is called
hair root . there are contains live cells , nerves , blood vessels etc . when we pull
the hair we feel pain . ( Not our department)
 Division of hair Shaft : for hair stylist

Hair shaft area :

 The hair shaft is further divided into 3 parts

1) Roots - Hair roots is the area just above the scalp

2) Mids - The middle area of the hair .
3) Ends - Ends are the top area of the hair .
 DISTRIBUTION OF HAIR

 Hair are distributed all over the body except the palms of hand , soul of feet , lip , eyelids
 There are three types of hair length : -

1) Long hair - Scalp , Armpits , man’s facial hair

2) Short / Bristy hair - Eyebrow , Eyelashes
3) Vellus - Cheeks , Forehead

1 . LONG HAIR :

2. SHORT / BRISTY HAIR :

3. VELLUS HAIR :
 Hair shape

 Hair shape : also know as texture

 There are 4 types of texture

Cross shape of hair when put under the microscope shows that :

 Straight hair - Round shape

 Wavy hair - Oval shape
 Curly hair - Bean shape
 Afro curly - Flat shape
 Direction of hair growth

Hairline : The edges of head shape .Also known as ‘Perimeter’ . Direction of this is our
natural fall

 Hair follicle is set on an angle beneath the surface the skin / scalp , which decides
the flow of the hair growth .
(The direction of hair depends on the angle from which the hair is coming out )

 Terms of hair growth :

 Hair stream - Natural flow of the hair in direction , It is called hair stream .

 Whorl - When hair grows in circular motion around a visible

centre point (Example: On the crown area also known as ‘Bhavra’.)

( Circular pattern on crown area is formed whorl )

 Cowlick - A bunch/section of hair that grows in a different

direction or at an odd angle than rest of the hair stream. More weight
can’t be taken out from cowlick hair as the hair stands up straight
and looks odd. ( The hair stand up straight , It is called cowlick )
 Hair growth pattern

 There are 80,000 to 1,20,000 hair on human scalp .

 One hair shaft / strand grows 0.5 inch ( 1.25 cm ) in one month .
 One person losses 40 – 100 hair everyday naturally .
 Hair growth depends on :
 Age
 Hereditary
 Stress
 Drugs
 Diet

HAIR GROWTH CYCLE

 Life cycle of hair is known as its growth cycle . Growth cycle also depends on
genes. Growth stage can be affected by deficiency and diseases .

There are four stages in hair growth cycle :

1. Anagen : -
 It is also known as active stage , growth stage, etc. The hair grows in
this stage . The reproduction is fast. Generally Asians have bigger hair
growth cycles . In this stage hair grows at least ½ inch every month for
healthy hair. 90% hair is in this stage. Approximate duration : 2-6
years (exceptions may happen)

 Active hair growth stage

 Also called as growth stage
 In this stage the hair grows for 2 – 6 year
 Lasts for 2 – 6 years
2. Catagen : -
 This is the next stage to Anagen .Growth stops in this phase. Also
known as regression/transition . 1-2 % hair is in this stage. Duration :
1-2 weeks.

 Active hair growth stage stop

 Hair enters the phase called Regression / Transition stage ( Changing )
 Lasts for 1 – 3 weeks

3. Talogen : -
 It is also known as resting phase. This is the resting phase before hair falls
and starts new hair growth. 8-10 % hair is this stage. Approximate duration :
2-4 months.

 Hair enters resting stage in hair follicle

 Hair will loss contact with papilla and resting in the follicle
 Lasts for 2- 4 months

4. Return of anagen ( Exogen) : -

It is also known as shedding stage . Old hair continues to shed and new hair growth
cycle begins. After these 4 stages , one cycle is completed and we move on to the
next cycle .We can also call it as “Return of Anagen”. The cycle repeats on an
average every 3-4 years. In our whole lifetime this cycle repeats for 20-25.

 New hair shaft grows along side the old hair shaft forcing it to fall down
 Hair root
 Hair root : Also known as hair follicle . Hair shaft grows from here . It is a sack life
organ which grows in our dermal layer. Follicles regulates hair growth with help of
hormones , Neuropeptide (protein like nerve cell), immune cells (WBC). It also
determines texture. It gets strength from protein (Keratin). It gets nourishment
from capillaries . (capillaries= it carries blood)

Hair papilla :
 It is a like corn structure
 Located at the bottom of the hair follicle
 Produces hair cells and boosts new growth
 It supply nourishment to the hair shaft through blood vessels

( It is a corn shaped part which supplies blood and oxygen to hair follicles. It also makes
hair cells . It is at the end of follicles. It gives nourishment )
Hair bulb :
 It is thick part at the lower part of the hair root
 It is hollow
 It fits over the hair papilla and protects it
( It covers the papilla . There is hair matrix inside hair bulb. Melanocytes are made
in hair matrix. Melanocytes make hair pigments. Our hair shaft grows from this )

Hair follicle :
 It is a tube like pocket in skin and scalp which holds the hair root
 Set on an angle , So hair flows in one direction
 Depth and thickness of hair follicle is different for different body parts

Sebaceous glands :
 Are the oil glands that secrete oil called sebum
 Normal sebum gives shine and luster to the skin and hair
 Over secretion of sebum can cause dandruff and oily scalp / skin

( It creates an oil called Sebum. It has cells named sebocytes which produce
Sebum . It consists of wax , fatty acids, etc. It gives shine and lustre to hair. It
lubricates our and keeps skin soft. Excess production of sebum gives an oily
skin. Less production gives dry skin . It keeps our hair and skin waterproof )

Arrector pili muscle : -

 It is a small muscle that is connected with the hair follicle and skin
 It contracts due to fear and cold making the hair stand up straight

(It gives Goosebumps. Our vellus hair stands up. When it stands up that area gets
contracted as heat stays inside . It is attached to hair follicle )

Epidermis : -

 Outer most layer of the skin / scalp from where the hair growth out
 Cross section

Note : Hair diameter is 0.02 – 0.04 mm .

Layer of hair shaft

Cuticle :
 It is the outer most horny layer of hair .
 It protects the inner layer of hair shaft ( Cortex ) from dust ,dirt , pollution ,Heat
 Looks like fish scales
 Chemical raises the cuticle and open it so that the product can penetrate in hair cortex

( It is the outermost layer of hair shaft. It protects inner layers from

damage. It is made of transparent scale like cells . They are overlapped .
This layer needs to be healthy and strong as it acts like a door for hair. It is
also responsible for shine of hair. These are tough yet flexible. Moisture
,water , PH balance are responsible for opening of cuticles. Layers inside
cuticles )
Cortex :

 It is the main component of hair

 It is middle layer of hair shaft
 It gives elasticity and strength to hair
 Contains Pigment , Bonds and Fibers

Pigment : The natural hair color is the result of the pigments (melanocytes) located within the
cortex. The pigments consist of melanin (colored substances) present in the hair in a diffused or
granular form. These are not water soluble but they are soluble in strong acids and the color may
be removed with hydrogen peroxide. Melanocytes synthesize two main types of melanin:

a. Eumelanin: It is dark colored and is present in black hair.

b. Pheomelanin : It is lighter and is present in golden, blonde and red hair. Thus, hair
color of a person is the result of the ratio of Eumelanin and Pheomelanin along with the
total number and size of pigment granules.
 Pigment structure :

Eumelanin and pheomelanin structure :

Bonds : It’s decide hair texture , There are three types of hair bonds. These are hydrogen bonds, salt
bonds and disulfide bonds. Collectively, these bonds are called SIDE BONDS.

a. Hydrogen Bond:
These bonds are the most flexible and are easily broken in the presence of water and heat. These
account for 30% of hair strength. Hydrogen bonds allows hair to change shape temporarily and
produces strong hold. For Eg: When wet hair is set in rollers until it dries, hydrogen re-bonding
occurs but in new "shape". Hydrogen bonding is the reason why hair frizzes and curls falls and hair
can be manipulated into various hair styles.
b. Salt Bonds :
These bonds are abundant throughout the cortex.
Salt bonds account for 1/3 of the hair's strength. They are broken by pH changes in the hair.
Readjusting the hair's pH will reform and stabilize these bonds.
c. Disulfide Bonds :
Disulfide bonds are also known as CYSTINE BONDS or SULFUR BOND. These are the strongest
bonds and accounts for 90% of the hair's strength. The more disulfide is in hair fiber, the more
curlier and kinkier the hair would be. These bonds cannot be broken by water or heat. These can be
broken only by chemical agents such as perms, relaxers or color. For Eg:- If a person with curly hair
wants straight hair, chemicals which can break up or "relax these bonds would be used. After the
disulfide bonds break, relaxers "cap" the bonds so that they cannot reform again. Once broken,
disulfide bonds cannot be reformed.

To keep the bonds of the hair strong healthy hair pH (4.5-5.5) must be maintained so that they may
maintain proper moisture retention
Fiber : These are responsible for strength and elasticity . It is made of cortical cells . If
fiber is weak , hair becomes brittle . It is made in hair matrix. Made of protein , cortical
cells ,etc.

Medulla :
 It is inner most layer of the hair shaft
 It is hollow space
 It is present in thick hair but absent in fine hair
 Scientists say that it provides nourishment to the hair
 Stronger the medulla , tighter the curls
 Power of hydrogen / Potential hydrogen

 In our body 70 % is water eg . H2O so hydrogen is double

 The Ph balance is measured in a scale of 0 – 14

 0 – 6.9 = Acidic ( Soft )

 7 = Neutral
 7.1 – 14 = Alkaline

 Skin = 4.5 – 5.5

 Hair = 4.5 – 5.5

 The following list contains of products that fall in Acidic , Neutral and Alkaline list of products :

ACIDIC NEUTRAL ALKALINE

Serum Soft water Shampoo

Hair developer Soap

Conditioner Face wash

Alovera Relaxer

SPA cream Color tube

Lemon , Masque Hard water

Moisturizer Scrub

Neutralizer Pre lightener

 HAIR PROBLEMS

- Dryness - Dandruff - Split ends - Frizzy

- Hair fall - Tangle prone - Breakage - Lice

- Porosity - Alopecia - Premature grey - Oily scalp

REASONS OF HAIR PROBLEMS

- Over shampoo - Over heat - Chemical

- Pollution - Drugs - Bad diet

- Stress - UV Rays - hard water

- Poor cleanliness - Alkaline products

HAIR ANALYSIS

 Texture :
 Feel the hair by touching
 Straight , wavy , curly , afro curly

 Elasticity :
 Ability of the hair to stretch and return to the same condiction without breaking
 It determines the strength of the hair

 Porosity :
 Ability of the hair to hold moisture
 Normal porous hair is the best hair
 It can be checked by shine of hair
 If the hair is high or low porous then you will face problems while styling
 Density :
 It is the denseness of the hair
 This can be checked by lifting a section and checking the density of the hair
 high, normal , low
 Diameter :
 It is the thickness of the hair
 Thick , medium , fine

 History :
 It is the history of the clients hair
 This can be done by asking questions for previous treatment
 Deep study of cuticle / Layers of cuticle

 Epicuticle - The outer layer . It is made of Lipids (85% fatty acids) , fibrous proteins.
It protects hair from outer chemical attacks .

 A layer - It is made of 35% of Cysteine (type of amino acid) . It protects

hair from physical and chemical attacks.

 Exocuticle - It has 15% Cysteine . It gives toughness to cuticles below

A-layer.

 Endocuticle - It has 3% Cysteine . It is soft, it helps our cuticle to stand. It

swells when it comes in contact of water.

 CMC ( Cell Membrane complex ) : It is made of a Lipid . It is in between 2

cuticle cells. It holds 2 cuticles, acts as a binding agent for 2 cuticles, it also
contains Polysaccharide . When it comes in contact of water/moisture it
opens .
(CMC : It is a lipid that is in the fluid , This fluid forms a layer between cuticle and cortex and sticks it
together )
Deep study of cortex

 Layer of corticale cells :

1) Macrofibrille
2) Microfibrille
3) Protofibrille
4) Double spirale
5) Polly peptide chain
6) Amino acid
 Polly peptide chain :

 Amino acid :

There are 18 – 20 types of amino acids found in hair strands .

 Color Theory
Definition of color :-
 Color is reflection of light on an particular object / subject to our eyes pigments.

 Terms for color :-

 HUE -The name of color.

Eg. - Red , Green ,Orange , etc

 Value – This is the darkness or lightness of the color .

Eg . - Dark red , light blue , dark yellow , etc .

 Depth/intensity – It is the shade or the tint of the color .

Eg . - Reddish violet , bluish green , etc .

 Prism (3D object ) –

 = Primary color =
 Red , Blue , Yellow
 They are god gifted color / Natural colors .
 These colors are can not be created by mixing any other colors .
 All the color in the world can be made by mixing these 3 primary colors .
 Red +Blue + Yellow = Neutral ( Black / Brown )
 Black - Absent of the light , White – Present of light .

= Secondary color =
 When two primary color is mixed in an equal proportion secondary color is formed .
(1:1)
 Secondary colors are the human made colors .
 Red + Blue = Violet , Red + Yellow = Orange , Blue + Yellow = Green .
 = Tertiary color =
 When one primary color and it’s adjacent secondary color is mixed in equal proportion
tertiary color is formed .
 These colors are used to understand the undertones of the hair .
 Yellow + Green = Yellow green , Yellow + Orange = Yellow orange , Blue + Violet = Blue
violet , Blue + Green = Blue green , Red + Orange = Red orange , Red + Violet = Red Violet.

= Complimentary color =
 When one primary color and it’s opposite secondary color is mixed in an equal proportion
complimentary color is formed .
 Complimentary colors are the neutralizing colors .
~

 Warm color – The colors that are bright to the eyes , the colors of sun .
 Eg . Red , Orange , Yellow .
 Cool color - The colors that are easy on the eyes , the shade of sea water or tree .
 Eg . Blue , Violet , Green .
 International color chat
…………………………………………………………………

 It is the language of the hairstylists to understand the basic color of the client .
 Consists the shade of brown that go from black to blonde .
 ICC followed by every company in the world .
 Numbering system is use to determine the base color and name .
 Numbers are 1 -10 , 1 is the darkest and 10 is the lightest .

Undertones :-
 Undertones are the dominant underlying pigments in a particular base color .
 Undertones are the color which are visible to the naked eyes .

Unit of measuring / The base color of hair with undertones

Base color Undertones

10. EXTRA LIGHT BLONDE PALEST YELLOW

9. VERY LIGHT BLONDE PALE YELLOW

8. LIGHT BLONDE YELLOW

7. MEDIUM BLONDE / BLONDE YELLOW ORANGE

6. DARK BLONDE ORANGE

5. LIGHT BROWN RED ORANGE

4. MEDIUM BROWN / BROWN RED

3. DARK BROWN RED BROWN

2. BLACK DARK RED BROWN

1. BLUE BLACK DARK RED BROWN

 Reflections

 Reflections are the additional tint which is added with the base color for extra
shine or neutralizing .
 These are demi pigments colors , last up to 20 – 25 wash .
 Different companies use different denominations and numbers to indicate the
reflection .
 Reflections are used to add color and tone down .

Note :-

Eg. / 7 = Brown

/ 77 = Intense brown

/ 46 = Red violet
Example :
EXAMPLE OF SOME REFLECTION :

Copper ash MAHOGANY

RED RED VIOLET BEAIGE

MATTE MOCHA

etc ….
 Developers ( Hydrogen peroxide )
………………………….…………………………………………………………………

 Developers are the added oxidants which are added in the color or pre
lightener for lifting or depositing the color .
 The % ( percent ) of hydrogen peroxide in the full bottle is given on the bottle
.

1) 6 Vol. - 1.9 %
2) 10 Vol. - 3%
3) 13 Vol. - 4%
4) 20 Vol. - 6%
5) 30 Vol. - 9%
6) 40 Vol. - 12 %

 6 , 10 , 13 Vol. : -

 Ammonia free tubes , Sensitive scalp , Grey coverage , Not long lasting , No lift

 20 Vol. :-

 Touch up , Global , Grey coverage , Level on level , Tone down , Deposit , 1-2 Level lift

 30 Vol. :-

 Highlights , Ombre , Balayage , Global (Fashion) , No root application , 2-3 Level lift ,

 40 Vol. :-

 Highlights , Ombre , Balayage , Global (Fashion) , No root application , Up to 4 Level lift ,

Example :
etc …..
Level lifting :

DEVELOPERS
Base 20 Vol. 30 Vol. 40 Vol.

10. ( Light Hair ) 2 Level 3 Level 4 Level

9. ( Light Hair ) 2 Level 3 Level 4 Level

8. ( Light Hair ) 2 Level 3 Level 4 Level

7. ( Light Hair ) 2 Level 3 Level 4 Level

6. ( Light Hair ) 2 Level 3 Level 4 Level

5. ( Light Hair ) 2 Level 3 Level 4 Level

4. ( Light Hair ) 2 Level 3 Level 4 Level

3. ( Dark Hair ) 1 Level 2 Level 3 Level

2. ( Dark Hair ) 1 Level 2 Level 3 Level

1. ( Dark Hair ) 1 Level 2 Level 3 Level

Precautions :-
 When hydrogen peroxide is poured from the bottle do not put it back
 Hydrogen peroxide should be away from metal object .
 Do not keep the bottle open .
 Store in cool an dry place .
 Shake the bottle before pouring .
 Store in hydrogen peroxide opaque bottle .
 Pre lightener
 Ammonium per sulfate , Sodium per sulfate , Potassium per sulfate .
 Pre lightener contains ammonia in a dry form .
 Mixing with hydrogen peroxide for extra lifting that tube can not do .
 During this process , Chemical heat is produces .
 Pigments are diffused in 7 stage in lightening .

7 Stages of lightening

7 PALEST YELLOW Yellow

6 YELLOW YELLOW

5 YELLOW ORANGE RED

4 ORANGE RED

3 RED ORANGE RED

2 BROWN BLUE

1 BLACK BLUE

MIXING RATIO
With foil :- Formula - ( Pre lightener : Developer )

Virgin hair – 1:1.5 or 1:2

Chemical hair - 1:2

Without foil : -

Virgin hair - 1:1

Chemical hair - 1:1.5

With foil :

With out foil :

Example of some products :

Multi Blonder :

 Contains in Powder base form

 For controlled and reliable lightening up to 7 levels of lift.
 For all lightening techniques.
 For perfect lightening, even on pre-colored hair.
 Contains anti-yellow molecules to help reduce orange/yellow undertones during lightening.
 Active time 40 – 50 min .
 Not for scalp

Extra cool Blonder :

 Contains in Powder base form

 Combination of lightening and toning. ( No need to deposit )

 Visibly clearer & cooler blonde results* up to 7 levels of lift

 Suitable for natural and pre-colored hair from tone depth 4-8
 For all application techniques
 Active time 40- 50 min
 Not for scalp
Soft Blonder :

 The only product in the Blondor range that comes in the form of cream, Soft Blonde Cream is
created for on-scalp
 Up to 7 levels of lift
 application. .
 Controlled and reliable lightening
 Gentle on the scalp and hair
 With lipids that coat the hair to protect from moisture loss
 Contains chamomile extrac

MAGMA BY BLONDOR :

 Contains in Powder base form

 This lightening system allows lifting and toning in one simple step, for both foiling and freehand
techniques.

 Works on both colored and virgin hair

 Up to 6 levels of lift
 11 intermixable shades for maximum creativity and hair colour ideas, from soft to intense end-
results
 For off scalp application on dry hair only
 Last up to 15 washes
 Formula 1: 1.5
 = Tubes =
 Tubes are contains ammonia which opens the cuticle in the hair shaft .
 No ammonia tubes are contain MEA ( MONO ETHANOL AMINE ) .

Tubes can be divided in 3 categories :

1. A . Base colors . Eg. - 7 ,8 , 9 , 12

2. B . Reflection colors . Eg. - 0.5 , 0/22 , L - 44
3. C . Base with reflection color Eg .- 7.55 , 5.8 , 3.16

Type of color tubes :-

 1 – 5 = Dye colors
 6 – 9 = Fashion colors
 10 – 13 = Highlight colors

Different companies have different :-

 Mixing ratio
 Reflections
 Base colors

# Note :-

 Temporary colors – Spray color , Wax color .

 Demi permanent colors – Reflections , Ammonia free , lower vol. (20 vol. )
 Semi permanent colors – Whit out developer , Crazy color , Last up to 7 – 10 wash .
 Permanent colors – dye color , Pre lightener .
Example of tube :
 Natural Lightening
 Atmosphere contains humidity oxygen and sunlight .
 Humidity open the cuticle of the hair .
 Oxygen + Sunlight works together as a chemical reaction in the cortex layer of hair .
 This chemical reaction eliminates the color pigments of the hair . Blue is eliminates first as
it is the weakest pigments , Red leaves second and yellow stay till the end as it is strongest
pigments .

Hair color science

 Grey / White hair – No melanin
 Heena hair – Strong red pigment
 Highlighted hair - Melanin is removed ,
( Blue is weakest , Red leave second , Yellow is the strongest and stay till the 10 )

 Fashion color ( 6 -9 ) – There are the shade of brown .

Eg . Mocha , Chocolate , Red , Copper
 Funky colors – There colors are deposited on 10 level .

Eg . Green , Pink ,Violet , Blue , etc

Hygiene , Precautions , Saftey

 Hygiene in saloon :

 Nail should be short and clean

 Always use disposable Gloves , Razors , cotton , etc
 Use fresh towel and napkins
 Use antiseptic lotion after every service
 Never leave any cuts unattended
# Straightening / Smoothening / Re bonding / Relaxing

 This treatment is done to give hair a straight texture .

Relaxing procedure 60 – 65 % Straight

 Consultation ( Reason , History , Expectations )

 Wash with Purifying shampoo .
 Towel dry
 Apply Pretreatment ( optional )
 80 – 100 % dry ( Blast dry )
 Make quadrants section . ( Primary section )
 Start Relaxer application from nape area . ( 25 min under )
 Keep 20 – 25 min for processing . ( Visual check )
 Rinse the product with plain water followed by Masque an keep 2 min .
 100 % Blast dry after straight blow dry with fine section .
 Apply Neutralizer in small section an keep 10 – 15 min for process .
 Rinse the Neutralizer with plain water followed by Masque .
 Straight blow dry for remove moisture , Use paddle brush .

Smoothening procedure 70 – 80 % Straight

 Consultation ( Reason , History , Expectations )

 Wash with Purifying shampoo .
 Towel dry
 Apply Pretreatment ( optional )
 70 – 80 % dry ( Blast dry )
 Make quadrants section . ( Primary section )
 Start Relaxer application from nape area . ( 25 min under )
 Keep 20 – 25 min for processing . ( Visual check )
 Rinse the product with plain water followed by Masque an keep 2 min.
 100 % Blast dry
 Start Iron with fine section .
 Iron temperature should be :
 Fine hair = 160-180 , Medium hair = 180-210 , Thick hair = 210-230
 Once done Iron after wait 5 min .
 Apply Neutralizer in thick section an keep 10-15 min for process .
 Rinse the Neutralizer with plain water followed by Masque .
 Straight blow dry to remove moisture .
 Serum application .
Straightening procedure 85 – 90 Straight

 Consultation ( Reason , History , Expectations )

 Wash with Purifying shampoo .
 Towel dry
 Apply Pretreatment ( optional )
 70 – 80 % dry ( Blast dry )
 Make quadrants section . ( Primary section )
 Start Relaxer application from nape area . ( 25 min under )
 Keep 20 – 25 min for processing . ( Visual check )
 Rinse the product with plain water followed by Masque an keep 2 min.
 100 % Blast dry .
 Start Iron with fine section .
 Iron temperature should be :
 Fine hair = 160-180 , Medium hair = 180-210 , Thick hair = 210-230
 Once done Iron after wait 5 min .
 Apply Neutralizer in thick section an keep 10-15 min for process .
 Rinse the Neutralizer with plain water followed by Masque .
 100 % Blast dry .
 Start Iron .
 Serum application .

Re bonding procedure 95 – 100 % Straight

 Consultation ( Reason , History , Expectations )

 Wash with Purifying shampoo .
 Towel dry
 Apply Pretreatment ( optional )
 100 % dry ( Blast dry )
 Make quadrants section . ( Primary section )
 Start Iron in small section .
 Once done Iron wait 5 min .
 Make quadrants section . ( Primary section )
 Start Relaxer application from nape area . ( 25 min under )
 Keep 20 – 25 min for processing . ( Visual check )
 Rinse the product with plain water followed by Masque an keep 2 min.
 100 % Blast dry
 Start Iron with fine section .
 Iron temperature should be :
 Fine hair = 160-180 , Medium hair = 180-210 , Thick hair = 210-230
 Once done Iron after wait 5 min .
 Apply Neutralizer in thick section an keep 10-15 min for process .
 Rinse the Neutralizer with plain water followed by Masque .
 100 % Blast dry .
 Start Iron .
 Serum application
Relaxer :

 The main ingredient in relaxer is ATG ( Ammonium thioglycolate ) .

 Relaxer is applied to break ( soften ) the bonds in a hair .
 Relaxer Ph. 10-13 , Mild to Strong .

Neutralizer :

 Hydrogen peroxide is the main ingredient in Neutralizer .

 Neutralizer is fixes / Seal / Lock the bonds in the new shape .
 Neutralizer Ph. 6-7

Precautions / After care :

 Do not tie hair tightly for 48 hrs , After the treatment .
 Hair should not get wet for 48 hrs , After the treatment .
 Haircut can be done after first wash or after the Neutralizer wash .
 Hair SPA and Hair Color after 20 days .
 2 Months gap for Henna or Dye hair .
 Do not do on pregnant women , Minor ( 18 - ) , Scalp problems , Asthma patient .
 Always give smoothening straightening shampoo , Masque , Post treatment .

Product knowledge :

 Smoothening cream ( Mild ) , For Fine , Fine Henna & Dye hair , Normal wavy .
 Resistant ( Medium ) , For Medium , Treated , Professional coated , Wavy hair .
 Extra resistant ( Strong ) , For Thick , Curly , Virgin hair , Henna & Dye hair .
 0 ( Strong )
 1 ( Medium )
 2 ( Mild )

 N ( Normal )
 C ( Chemical treated )
 Sensitized ( Mild )
 Normal ( Medium )
 Resistant ( Strong )

 Intense ( Strong )
 Mild ( Mild soft )
Jaron –
 0 ( Mild )
 1 ( Medium )
 2 ( Strong )

 You can suggest straightening , smoothening shampoo :

 Dandruff treatment
Reason of dandruff :

 Fungus , Polluction , Dust and dirt , No cleanliness , Not a clean scalp ,

Over shampoo , Over secretion sebum ,

Defination of Dandruff :

 Dandruff is caused by a Bacteria called Malesizzia fur fur .

 Dandruff is basically on oily scalp ( Over secretion sebum ) .
 You get dry scalp when skin does not secrete sebum .

Dandruff treatment Procedure : ( Ampules ) Streax

 Sientific combing ( 10 min , if need )

 Wash with Purifying shampoo .
 100 % dry ( Blast dry )
 Make quadrants section . ( Primary section )
 Start from front radial section .
 Massage for 2-3 mins .
 Wash after 24 hours .
 Wash with dandruff shampoo .
 Repeat the treatment 1 time in a week for 6 weeks .
 After 6 weeks 1 time every month for 6 month .

Dandruff treatment Procedure : - ( Scrub ) Loreal , Matrix

LOREAL – INNER SPA ( FOR DRY SCALP )

MATRIX - SCRUB ( FOR OILY SCALP )

 Sientific combing ( 10 min , if need )

 Wash with Purifying shampoo .
 50 % Towel dry .
 Make quadrants section .
 Start application from front radial section on wet hair .
 Massage for 5 mins .
 Wait for 10-15 mins .
 Wash with dandruff shampoo and conditioner .
 1 time every month for best results .
 Hair fall treatment
Reason of hairfall :
 Dandruff , Hygine , Heat , Lack and nourishment , Over chemical ,
Stress , Drugs , Heriditary .

Hairfall treatment procedure : ( Ampules ) Streax

 Wash with Purifying shampoo .

 100 % dry ( Blast dry )
 Make quadrants section .
 Start from front radial section .
 Massage for 2-3 mins .
 Wash after 24 hours .
 Wash with shampoo .
 Repeat the treatment 1 time in a week for 6 weeks .
 After 6 weeks 1 time every month for 6 month .

Some product knowledge :

 Keratin treatment

 Keratin products contain Formaldehyde.

 Formaldehyde basically works on the cuticle layer of hair by laminating the
strand .
 It is a semi permanent treatment last up to 3-4 months .
 Keratin treatment done to increase the shine and smoothness of hair .

Done for :
 Improves shine , Smoothness , Improves elasticity , Stop breakage ,
Manageable , Laminates the hair strand .

Works on :
 Chemical treated , Damaged , Dry , Breakage , Porous , Frizzy , Tangle
prone , Heena , Dye , Burnt hair lasts 30-45 days but don’t do on burnt hair
because result wont come .

Procedure : ( Brand - LUXLISS )

 Consultation ( Reason , History , Expectations )

 Wash with Purifying shampoo .
 100 % dry ( Blast dry )
 Make quadrants section .
 Start application from nape area with fine section ( Use dap dap technique )
 Cover the head with shower cap or clean wrap for 30-35 min .
 Straight blow dry without washing the product ( Medium heat full blow ) .
 Start Iron in fine section
 Iron temperature should be :
 Fine hair = 160-180 , Medium hair = 180-210 , Thick hair = 210-230

 When done all process , call to client for wash after 24 hrs .
 Iron once again in thick section before wash .
 Wait 5 min after wash with sulfate free shampoo and conditioner .
 After wash done , Do 100 % straight blow dry an use paddle brush .
 Cysteine treatment
 Cysteine treatment mainly consist of Proteinogenic amino acid which is present
in the poly-peptide chain .
 Cystine basically adds the lost amino acids from your fiber and improves the
strength and elasticity of hair .

Procedure : ( Brand - LUXLISS )

 Consultation ( Reason , History )

 Wash with Purifying shampoo .
 100 % dry ( Blast dry )
 Make quadrants section .
 Start application from nape area with fine section ( Use dap dap technique ).
 Cover the head with shower cap or clean wrap for 30-35 min .
 Rinse the product with plain water .
 Towel dry .
 After 100 % Straight blow dry ( Medium heat full blow ) .
 Iron in fine section .
 Iron temperature should be :
 Fine hair = 160-180 , Medium hair = 180-210 , Thick hair = 210-230
 Apply serum .
 When done all process , call to client for wash after 24 hrs .
 Iron once again in thick section before wash .
 Wait 5 min after wash with sulfate free shampoo and conditioner .
 After wash done , Do 100 % straight blow dry an use paddle brush .

Compare

Cysteine Keratin

~ Works on the fiber damage . ~ Works on the cuticle damage .

( Cortical cells , Polly-peptide chain )

~ Works best for Damaged and ~ Works for Frizzy and Unmanageable

Chemically treated hair . hair .

~ Improve the Strength and ~ Improve Shine and Luster .

Elasticity .

~ 0 – 20 % Straight . ~ 20 – 50 % Straight .
 AFTER CARE / PRECAUTIONS ( KERATIN AND CYSTINE )
 Always do haircut before the treatment .
 No oiling after the treatment .
 Open all windows for cross ventilation and AC off .
 Color , smoothening and other chemical treatment should be done before
the keratin treatment .
 Do not do on Pregnant , Asthma , 18 – below because of the
Formaldehyde .
 Keep away from Chlorine , Hard water .
 Always use Sulfate free shampoo and conditioner for home care .
 No home remedies after the treatment .

Some Keratin an Cystine prodect :

Some sulfate free shampoo and conditioner :
 Botox treatment
 Main ingredient Bont-L peptide which helps to fill the fibers and give strength in
the hair .

Contains 4 products :

1. Clarifying shampoo
2. Botox treatment
3. Replenishing shampoo ( Sulfate free Shampoo )
4. Replenishing conditioner ( Sulfate free Conditioner

Ingredients and uses :

 Bont-L Peptide - Fill the fibers .

 Vitamin B5 and E – Improves strength of the hair .
 Thioxalic – Separates and repairs multiple bonds in the hair and changes
texture .
 Keratin - From sheep wool ( Because the Ph balance of the hair of sheep
wool and humans is the same ) .
 Caviar oil ( Fish oil ) – for shine .
 Argon oil – Covers dehydration and protects the hair from UV rays .
 Collagen complex – Improves the elasticity of the hair .

Benefits :

 Anti-ageing formula for your hair .

 Works in the cortex layer .
 Improves the elasticity of the hair .
 Protects the hair from UV rays ( Protects from Dehydration )
 Changes hair texture 50 – 70 %
 Suitable for all hair types
 Lasts up to 5 months ( Recommended 2-3 washes per week )
Procedure : ( brand - MK )
 Consultation – Check elasticity , Porosity level and clients history .
 Wash with clarifying shampoo
 If hair is virgin , thick , heena , resistant , dye coated : 3 time wash .
 If hair is colored ( professional ) , textured ( straightening ,smoothening ) :
2 times wash .

 If hair is sensitive , weak ( breakage ) , pre lightening , fine : 1 times wash

 80 – 100 % Blast dry .

 Make quadrants section .
 Start application from nape are with fine section ( use dap dap technique )
 Processing time for :
 virgin , thick , heena , resistant , dye coated : 60 min
 colored ( professional ) , textured (straightening ,smoothening ) , sensitive
weak ( breakage ) , pre lightening , fine : 45 min

 Cover the hair in shower cap or clean wrap for the processing time .
 Without washing the product , Normal finger blast the hair with medium heat
full blow up to 80 – 100 % .
 Iron in fine section .
 Iron temperature should be :
 Fine hair = 160-180 , Medium hair = 180-210 , Thick hair = 210-230
 Wait 20 min for cooling time .
 Rinse the product with plain water completely .
 After wash with replenishing shampoo and replenishing conditioner .
 Blast dry with medium heat full blow . ( don’t use any brushes )

Key points to remember :

 Root touchup after the treatment as your hair base color will be lifted one base .
 On grey hair , Result will be yellow .
 Avoid hard water , Chlorine swimming etc .
 Can do haircut after the treatment .
 Sulfate free shampoo and conditioner for home care .
 AC should be off and all windows should be open
 We can do botox treatment on heena , dye hair but result will last for3 - 4 months
 Do not do on pregnant or asthma clients or minor ( 18 – ) because the smoke may
be injurious to their health .
 If client wants oil the hair you can suggest Argon oil , Acai oil , Moroccon oil .
 Avoid home remedies ( Egg , Curd , etc )
 Power mix treatment
Products of Loreal :

 Power mix treatment introduced in 2017 replacing power dose treatment .

 Power mix treatment is basically a Substitute for SPA .
 Contain in 1 kit (Shampoo , Treatment , Base , Masque , Serum )
 Company provides 1 Base + 5 Addictive .
 Addictive : -
1. Absolute repair lipidium ( For damaged hair )
2. Vitamino color A – OX ( For colored Hair )
3. Inforce ( For breakage / fine hair )
4. Nutrifier ( For dry hair )
5. Liss ulimited ( For St. / Smoothening and frizzy hair )

Procedure :
 Consultation ( History , Reason , check the major and minor problems )
 Wash with absolute repair lipidium shampoo
 Towel dry 50%
 Make quadrants section
 Mix ratio :
 5 ml Addictive + 5ml Base ( 1:1 )
 Start application from nape area ( No scalp )
 When done the application after apply masque without washing the treatment
and wait 10 mins .
 Rinse the product with plain water .
 Towel dry and apply serum .
 After 70 % blast dry ( Medium heat full blow )

Note :

For major problem use Treatment and minor problem use Masque if have two issues

 Addictive : water contains

 Base : oil contains
 Micellar technology
 Plex treatment
 Plex treatment basically done to protect the bonds and fibers of the hair .
 Plex treatment protect the Ph level of the hair during color and straightening /
smoothening .
 This mainly used for frizzy , damaged , breakage hair .
 Best for chemically treated hair .
 Contain products :

 N* 1 ( Bond Maker )
 N* 2 ( Bond Stabilizer )
 N* 3 ( Home Care )

N* 1 :-

 It is open the cuticles and reconstructs the bonds .

 It is rebuilds the Disulfur bonds , Ph level is 9 .

N* 2 : -

 It is fixes the broken bonds and helps to maintain the health of the hair .
 Ph level 4

N* 3 : -

 It is protects the hair from further damage .

 It is given to the client for home care .

Mixing ratio

With color tube:

 formula : ( Tube : N*1 )

 Ratio : ( 60g : 4ml )

Eg .
 60g : 4ml
 45g : 3ml
 30g : 2ml
 15g : 1ml
With pre lightener :

 Formula :- ( Pre lightener : N*1 )

 With foil ratio : pre lightener ( 5g ): N*1 ( 1ml )
 Without foil ratio : pre lightener ( 10g ): N*1 ( 1ml )

Procedure :
 Mix with tube or pre lightener followed by mixing ratio .
 Once done the color / pre lightener with plex procedure .
 Rinse the product with shampoo .
 Apply N*2 and keep 10mins .
 Formula : - N*1 ( 1ml ) : N*2 ( 2ml )
 Ratio : ( 1 : 2 )
 Rinse the product with plain water
 Apply masque .

With Straightening / Smoothening procedure :

 Wash with purifying shampoo

 Dry
 Start application of Relaxer
 Rinse the product with plain water
 Apply N*1
 Formula : ( Water : N*1 )
 Ratio : ( 6ml : 1ml ) , 6 : 1
 Leave 5 – 7 min
 Rinse with plain water .
 Iron like regular and wait 5 min .
 Apply Neutralizer an keep 10 - 15 min for process .
 Rinse the Neutralizer with plain water .
 Apply N*2 an keep 10 min
 Formula : - N*1 ( 1ml ) : N*2 ( 2ml )
 Ratio : ( 1 : 2 )
 Rinse the product with plain water an apply masque .
Wella plex stand alone :

 Wash with purifying shampoo

 Towel Dry
 Application plex N*1
 Formula : ( Water : N*1 )
 Ratio : ( 6ml : 1ml ) , 6 : 1
 Leave 10 - 15 min ( No steam , No massage )
 Rinse the product with plain water
 Apply N*2 an leave 10 min .
 Formula : - N*1 ( 1ml ) : N*2 ( 2ml )
 Ratio : ( 1 : 2 )
 Rinse the product with plain water .
 Towel dry up to 60 %
 Home care N*3 ( 2 times in a week )

Product knowledge :

Wella : wella plex

Ola plex :

Loreal : smartbond
Martix : bond ultim8

Schwarzkorf : fiber flex

 Hair spa
REASON FOR SPA –

 Dryness
 Frizzy
 Treated
 Elastisity
 Dameged
 Shine
 Moisture
 soft
 Breakage
Etc .

 Tools required :

 Shampoo , Towel , Cutting sheet , Tail comb, Section clip , Bowl brush ,
Hand gloves , Ear cap , Cotton ,SPA Cream , Steam machine , Shower cap ,
Dryer , Serum .

Procedure : ( Normal Spa )

 Consultation ( Reason , History , Benefits )
 Wash with Purifying shampoo .
 Towel dry ( 50 - 70 % dry , water should not drop )
 Make quadrants section . ( Primary section )
 Start application of SPA cream from nape area on 50 – 70 % wet hair .
 Once done the application start massage for 10-15 mins .
 Apply shower cap .
 Steam 2-3 mins .
 Emulsify the product again for 5 mins .
 Rinse the product with plain water .
 60 % dry followed by serum ( cold blow dry ) .
 WELLA SPA TREATMENT

REPAIR SPA TREATMENT : FUSION

 the Fusion Hair Recovery care collection for damaged hair

 For up to 95 % more resilience against breakage , designed to repair and protect the
hair against breakage and damages.

 formula is designed with the silksteel fusion program

 It penetrates deep down the cortex and instantly recovers hair fiber and help to
prevent future hair breakage. Even the most damaged hair feel renewed, smooth,
elastic and resilient against breakage.

 Best for : long damaged hair ,chemical treated hair , ,over processed hair ( Pre
lightener , smoothening , straightening , rebonding ) ,burnt hair ., Unmanageable
hair
 How is it work :

IN THIS TREATMENT CONTAIN 4 PRODUCTS :

o INTENSE REPAIR SHAMPOO - Inspired by spider silk, one of nature’s

strongest fiber, this delicate shampoo for damaged hair will help to repair
your hair and will leave it clean and cared.

The shampoo’s EDDS technology removes metallic impurities through

antioxidant action. Micronized lipids, providing instant wet conditioning.
 o AMINO REFILLER -The Fusion Amino Refiller is a treatment for damaged
hair. Created to make the hair more resilient, this treatment penetrates down
to the cortex, refilling it with amino acids.

o Working in cortex layer on fiber.

o This is the liquid base (Aqua base ) product an apply only on damage
part of the hair ,
o No need to apply whole hair ,
o This is length product
o Don’t apply on scalp
o This is also know leave in product ( No rinse )
o Before use shake it
o In this treatment this is the main hero product

INGREDIENTS: AMINO ACIDS THE MAIN INGREDIENTS IN THE PRODUCT

o INTENSE REPAIR MASK - For damaged hair helps instantly repair and
protect against breakage due to styling and external damage , leave hair
smooth .

o This is sticky cream base (Greasiness ) product , apply like spa cream on
whole hair
o Don’t apply on scalp
o This is length product

o OIL REFLECTION : The Luminous Smoothing Oil is a versatile finishing oil

that helps style the hair effortlessly. Enriched with macadamia seed and
avocado oils, the lightweight texture of this oil will create a glossy effect.

o This is liquid( oil ) base product also called serum

o This is finishing product .
o Don’t apply on scalp
1st product 2nd product

3rd product 4th product ( finishing )

Procedure :
 Consultation ( Reason , History )

 Wash with intense repair shampoo ( One time shampoo , leave for 3 min )
 Towel dry ( water should not drop , up to 50 % dry )
 Tangle free ( use z comb or paddle brush )
 Make quadrants section ( Primary section )

 Start Intense Amino Refiller application from front area with section
by section on wet hair ( damp hair ).

o Use zik zak technique , Emulsify properly , comb properly , not for scalp

 When done application start blow dry ( for 5 – 10 min )

o blast dry , full heat & blow , no brush

o Intense Amino Refiller is a thermal product when give heat it’s
penetrates in the cortex .

 No rinse ( keep the amino refiller product , leave in product )

 Tangle free again ( use z comb or paddle brush )

 Make again quadrants section ( Primary section )
 Start Intense mask application from front area

o Use dap dap technique , Emulsify properly and comb , no scalp

 When done the application then start massage for 15- 20 min
o Avoid steam machine , use hot towel steam
 Wait for 5 min
 After Spray water an emulsify again for 5 min
 Rinse the product with plain water ( No Shampoo and conditioner )
 Towel dry ( water should not drop , up to 50 % dry )
 Apply oil reflection ( 2 – 4 pump , according hair )
 100 % blow dry
 Done blow dry
 Again apply oil reflection for finishing ( 1 – 2 pump , according hair )

Home care :

Suggest to client intense repair shampoo and mask with oil reflection .
 OIL REFLECTIONS SPA TREATMENT : LUMINOUS

 Oil Reflections products are for extra shiny hair and glossy .

 the Oil Reflections products leave the hair up to 3 times smoother and
create instant luminosity .

 Works on CMC layer .

 Best for Dry and Frizzy hair , Curly hair , Unmanageable hair .

Ingredients :

Avocado oil Macadamia oil

Camellia oil White tea

 ETC …….

IN THIS TREATMENT CONTAINS 4 PRODUCTS :

1. Luminous reveal shampoo : This light Moisturising shampoo leaves the

hair deeply cleansed and luminous. It's suitable for all hair types.
containing camellia oil and white tea extract.

o This is purifying shampoo

2. Luminous Magnifying Elixir : Luminous Magnifying Elixir is a serum

created for all hair types. Our rinse off elixir creates extra gloss and long
lasting frizz control .
The Luminous Magnifying Elixir contains white tea extract.

o This is the liquid base (Aqua base )

o Apply on whole hair ,
o This is length product
o Don’t apply on scalp
o This is also know leave in product ( No rinse )
o Before use shake it
o In this treatment this is the main hero product
3. Luminous reboost mask : the Luminous Reboost Mask is a moisturizing
mask that nourishes and replenishes the hair structure. Formulated with
essential conditioning elements like white tea extract.

o This is sticky cream base (Greasiness ) product , apply like spa cream on
whole hair
o Don’t apply on scalp
o This is length product

4. Luminous smoothening oil : The Luminous Smoothing Oil is a versatile

finishing oil that helps style the hair effortlessly. Enriched with macadamia
seed and avocado oils, the lightweight texture of this oil will create a glossy
effect.

o This is liquid( oil ) base product also called serum

o This is finishing product .
o Don’t apply on scalp
 1st product 2nd product

3rd product 4th product ( finishing )

Procedure :
 Consultation. ( Reason , History )

 Wash with Luminous reveal shampoo

o One time shampoo , if need then two time

 Towel dry ( water should not drop )

 Tangle free ( use z comb or paddle brush )
 Make quadrants section ( Primary section )

 Start Luminous Magnifying Elixir application from front area with

section by section on wet hair ( Damp hair ) .

o Use zik zak technique , Emulsify properly , comb , not for scalp

 When done application

 No rinse (keep Luminous Magnifying Elixir , Leave in product )

 Make again quadrants section ( Primary section )

 Start Luminous reboost mask from front area .

o Use dap dap technique , Emulsify properly , comb , no scalp

 When done the application then start massage for 15- 20 min
o ( Avoid steam machine , use hot towel steam )

 Wait 5 min
 After Spray water an emulsify again for 5 min
 Rinse the product with plain water ( No shampoo and conditioner)
 Towel dry ( water should not drop )

 Apply oil reflection ( 2 – 4 pump , according hair )

  100 % blow dry

 Again apply oil reflection for finishing ( 1 – 2 pump , according hair )

Home care :
Suggest to client Luminous reveal shampoo , Luminous re boost mask ,

oil reflection .
 HAIR FALL TREATMENT
Reason of hairfall :
 Dandruff , Hygine , Heat , Lack and nourishment , Over chemical ,
Stress , Drugs( Medicines ) , Heriditary . Bad diet

IN THIS TREATMENT CONTAINS 4 PRODUCTS :

1. DEEP NOURISHING SHAMPOO – The Nutri-Enrich Deep Nourishing

Shampoo nourishes dry or stressed hair, leaving it full of vitality. Formulated
with Nutri-Enrich-Blend , that contains goji berry, rich in vitamins, minerals
and peptides.

2. DEEP NOURISHING MASK - The Nutri-Enrich Deep Nourishing Mask with

Goji Berry deeply replenishes and moisturizes dry and stressed hair.

o This is sticky cream base (Greasiness ) product , apply like spa cream on
whole hair
o Don’t apply on scalp
o This is length product
 3. ANTI HAIR LOSS SERUM - (WITH CAFFEINE)
The Anti Hair Loss Serum is a refreshing serum that helps to reduce non-
congential hair loss, leaving hair strengthened and thickened ,

o This is the liquid base product

o This is scalp product
o This is also know leave in product ( No rinse )
o Before use shake it .
o In this treatment this is the main hero product

4. OIL REFLECTION - The Luminous Smoothing Oil is a versatile finishing oil

that helps style the hair effortlessly. Enriched with macadamia seed and
avocado oils, the lightweight texture of this oil will create a glossy effect.

o This is liquid( oil ) base product also called serum

o This is finishing product .
o Don’t apply on scalp

Ingredients :

Goji berry ( anti oxidant ) this is the main Ingredient .

Panthenol , CAFFEINE etc …

1st product 2 nd product

3rd product 4th product ( finishing )

Procedure :
 Consultation ( Reason , History )

 Wash with Deep nourishing shampoo ( Two time shampoo )

 Towel dry ( water should not drop , up to 50 % dry )
 Tangle free ( use z comb or paddle brush )
 Make quadrants section ( Primary section )

 Start Deep nourishing mask application from front area with section by
section on wet hair ( Damp hair ) .
o use dap dap technique , Emulsify properly , comb , not for scalp

 When done the application then start massage for 20- 30 min
o Avoid steam machine , use hot towel steam

 Wait 5 min
 Rinse the product with plain water ( No shampoo and conditioner )
 Towel dry ( water should not drop )
 Tangle free again ( use z comb or paddle brush )

 Make again quadrants section ( Primary section )

 Start Anti hair loss serum application from front area on Scalp and
scrub with finger tips . ( Scalp product )

 When done the application then start massage 5 min

 Then start blow dry ( blast dry )

o on scalp cool blow , on length medium heat with full blow

 No rinse ( leave in product )

o wash after 2 days for best result
  Apply oil reflection on length ( 2 – 4 pump , according hair )

Home care :
Suggest to client DEEP NOURISHING SHAMPOO , DEEP NOURISHING MASK ,

OIL REFLECTION
 DANDRUFF TREATMENT
Reason of dandruff :

 Fungus , Polluction , Dust and dirt , No cleanliness , Not a clean scalp ,

Over shampoo , Over secretion sebum , etc

 Seborrheic dermatitis is medical name of the dandruff

 Dandruff is caused by a Bacteria called Malesizzia fur fur .

 Dandruff is basically on oily scalp ( Over secretion sebum ) .
 You get dry scalp when skin does not secrete sebum .
 Type of dandruff : dry dandruff , oily dandruff

 In this treatment we will recover on both of dandruff

 In this treatment we will recover on scalp and length
 It’s also called inner spa treatment .

Dry dandruff Oily dandruff

IN THIS TREATMENT CONTAINS 4 PRODUCTS :

1. CLEAN SCALP ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO - WITH ZINC PYRITHIONE

Clean Scalp Anti-Dandruff Shampoo made with zinc pyrithione is a soothing
shampoo that combats dandruff and removes visible flakes from the scalp,
leaving hair feeling cleaner, moisturized and relieved.

o This shampoo remove dandruff up to 75 %

2. NOURISHING SERUM - WITH SILK EXTRACT

The Nutri-Enrich Nourishing Serum with silk extract is a serum for dry or
stressed hair that instantly nourishes. The serum will leave the hair soft and
full of vitality.

o This is the liquid base product

o Apply on whole hair ,
o This is length product
o Don’t apply on scalp
o This is also know leave in product ( No rinse )
o In this treatment this is the 1st main hero product

3. SENSO CALM SENSITIVE MASK - WITH ALLANTOIN

The Senso Calm Sensitive Mask made with allantoin is a fragrance-free mask
which alleviates itchiness while helping to strenghten your clients' hair.
o This is the mild mask
o This mask can apply on scalp and length
o This mask best for sensitive scalp an give moisture to scalp
o In this treatment this is the 2nd main hero product

4. OIL REFLECTION - The Luminous Smoothing Oil is a versatile finishing oil

that helps style the hair effortlessly. Enriched with macadamia seed and
avocado oils, the lightweight texture of this oil will create a glossy effect.

o This is liquid( oil ) base product also called serum

o This is finishing product .
o Don’t apply on scalp
1st product 2nd product

3rd product 4th product

Procedure :
 Consultation ( Reason , History )
 Wash with CLEAN SCALP ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO( two time shampoo ,
)

 Towel dry ( water should not drop , up to 50% dry )

 Tangle free ( use z comb or paddle brush )
 Make quadrants section ( Primary section )

 Start ENRICH NOURISHING SERUM application from front area with

section by section on wet hair( Damp hair ) .
 Use zik zak technique , Emulsify properly , comb , not for scalp
 No rinse
 keep ENRICH NOURISHING SERUM , leave in product

 Tangle free again

 Make again quadrants section ( Primary section )
 Start SENSO CALM SENSITIVE MASK application from front area .
 Use dap dap technique , Emulsify properly , comb , on scalp first application
 Then start application on length

 When done the application then start massage for 20- 30 min
 Avoid steam machine , use hot towel steam
 Wait 5 min

 After Spray water an emulsify again for 5 min

 Rinse the product with plain water ( No shampoo and conditioner )
 Towel dry ( water should not drop , up to 50% dry )

 Apply oil reflection ( 2 – 4 pump , according hair )

 100 % blow dry

 Again Apply oil reflection ( 1 – 2 pump , according hair )

Suggest to client CLEAN SCALP ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO and mask OIL
REFLECTION

BY – BASANT KUMAR