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shsph.blogspot.com REPUBLIC OF THE PHILIPPINES

DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION
PUBLIC TECHNICAL-VOCATIONAL HIGH SCHOOLS

COMPETENCY-BASED
LEARNING MATERIAL
(FOURTH YEAR)

UNIT OF COMPETENCY: PERFORM HAIR PERM

MODULE NO.4 MODULE TITLE: PERFORMING HAIR PERM
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MODULE 4

QUALIFICATION TITLE : HAIRDRESSING NC II

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PERFORM HAIR PERM
MODULE TITLE : PERFORMING HAIR PERM
NOMINAL DURATION : 100 hrs.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS

What is this module about?..................................................................1

What will you learn?
LESSON 1
PREPARING THE PATRON..........................................................................2
What is this lesson about?
What will you learn?
What do you already know?..................................................................3
Let us study!
Definition of Terms
Advantages of Cold Perming
Basic requirements............................................................................4
Scalp and hair analysis
Scalp condition
Hair porosity
Hair texture
Hair elasticity.....................................................................................5
Hir density
Hair length
Reconditioning treatment
Pecautionary measures......................................................................6
Preparing and planning the perm.....................................................7
Personal protective clothing
Let us remember
Let us apply what you have learned.....................................................8
Resources
References
LESSON 2
PERFORMING BASIC HAIR PERMING......................................................9
What is this lesson about?
What will you learn?
What do you already know?
Let us study!.....................................................................................10
Definition of Terms
Basic hair perming...................................................................11
Tools, Supplies and Equipment Needed
curling rods...................................................................................12
Rods are generally classified as illustrated below........................13
Chemical used in hair perming
Avoid interuption during a one -bottle application ...........................
Neutralizers...................................................................................14
Sectioning and blocking og the hair
Sectioning and blocking pattern......................................................15
Winding and wrapping the hair
Procedure for single flat wrap..........................................................16
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Procedure for a double flat wrap.....................................................17
Test curls
Test curl wave for developing hair
Application of waving lotion............................................................19
Applicator bottle....................................................................................20
Processing time
Wave patttern formation
Neutralization of the hair.................................................................21
Methods of neutralization
Basic hair perming method.............................................................22
Let us remember.................................................................................24
How much have you learned?
Let us apply what you have learned...................................................25
Resources.............................................................................................26
References
LESSON 3
APPLY FINAL TOUCH.................................................................................27
Wht will you learn?
What do you already know?
Let us study!........................................................................................28
After and final care of permed hair.................................................29
Caring for permed hair
Waving tools and products stored according to salon policies.......30
Let us remember
How much have you learned?
Let us apply what you have learned................................................31
Resources
References
Post test..................................................................................................32
Key to correction....................................................................................35
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REPUBLIC OF THE PHILIPPINES
DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION
PUBLIC TECHNICAL-VOCATIONAL HIGH SCHOOLS

COMPETENCY-BASED
LEARNING MATERIAL
(FOURTH YEAR)

UNIT OF COMPETENCY: PERFORM HAIR PERM

MODULE NO.4 MODULE TITLE: PERFORMING HAIR PERM

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WHAT IS THIS MODULE ABOUT?

This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes in

performing hair perming, checking of results and doing necessary
retouches to achieve optimum result.

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

After completing this module you should be able to:

a. prepare the patron;

b. perform hair perming; and
c. apply final touch.

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LESSON 1

PREPARING THE PATRON

WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?

The lesson deals on how to prepare the patron, the things that the
operator must do in order to check and analyze the condition and type of
hair and the scalp, and the recording of previous treatments and present
desired service outcome.

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. check and analyze hair and scalp condition;

2. determine previous treatment applied;
3. detect the presence of scalp disorders;
4. check and evaluate the desired outcome; and
5. provide personal protective clothing.

WHAT DO YOU ALREADY KNOW?

Pre Test

Let us find out how much you already know. Write on another sheet of
paper the letter of the correct answer.

1. What term is given to the physical and chemical processing of straight

hair that will change into waves or curls is?
a. Hair cutting c. hair rebonding
b. Hair perming d. hair relaxing
2. What do you call the ability of the hair to absorb liquid and moisture?
a. Hair elasticity c. hair density
b. Hair porosity d. hair texture
3. What do you call the individual who receives beauty services?
a. patron c. cosmetologist
b. operator d. hair stylist

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4. What is the most important step before giving a cold wave?

a. Be professional towards his/her patron.
b. Give a careful and correct analysis of the patron’s scalp and hair
condition.
c. Check hair condition only.
d. Analyze the scalp only.
5. What hair characteristic has the ability to stretch and bring back to
its original form without breaking?
a. elasticity c. porosity
b. density d. texture

LET US STUDY

Definition of Terms
Perming is the term given to the physical and chemical processing
of straight hair that will change it into curls or waves. Throughout
history,Patron
peoplethe person
have who receives
experimented beauty
with theirservices
hair in attempt to make
themselves more beautiful.
Coarse scratchy, wiry and with harsh feeling
Advantages of Cold Perming
Stretch ability to expand, extend and elongate
1. Relatively inexpensive.
Springyno
2. Employs flexible, resilience,
heat and is givenbounce
at room temperature.

Abrasion scraping
Cosmetologists and of the skinhave contributed many improvements
chemists
to produce the cold perming methods in use today. For best results, the
cosmetologist should follow the manufacturer’s directions.

Today, cold perming is the accepted method of permanently

perming nearly all types of hair. Exceptions are persons who maybe
allergic to the perming lotion and those whose hairs do not take a cold
perm satisfactorily.

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BASIC REQUIREMENTS

To give a successful cold perm, the cosmetologist must have a

thorough understanding of the following:

 Hair and Scalp Analysis

 Curling rods and chemicals
 Hair sectioning patterns
 Hair blocking and wrapping
 Applying perming lotion
 Processing
 Test curls
 Neutralizing
 Safety measures

SCALP AND HAIR ANALYSIS

A very important step before giving a cold perm is to make a careful

and correct analysis of the patron’s scalp and hair condition.

SCALP EXAMINATION

The scalp should be examined very carefully. Abrasions on the

scalp can make cold perming dangerous to a patron. An irritated scalp or
badly damaged hair are both signs that cold perming should be
postponed until the condition is corrected.

HAIR POROSITY

Porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb fluids or liquids.

The porosity of the hair determines how quickly the perm lotion is
absorbed. The processing time for any cold perm depends much more on
hair porosity than upon any other factor. The more porous the hair, the
less processing time it takes, and a milder perming solution is required.

The hair absorbs the cold perming lotion in relation to its porosity,
regardless of texture.

HAIR TEXTURE

Hair texture refers to the individual size of the hair strand and its
degree of coarseness or fineness. The texture and porosity are judged
together in determining the processing time.
For hair of medium texture, use perm lotion of normal strength.
Fine hair curls more easily and requires weaker lotion; coarse hair is
harder to wave and requires stronger lotion.

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HAIR ELASTICITY

Hair elasticity is the ability of the hair to stretch and contract.

Without elasticity, there will be no curl on the hair. The greater the
degree of elasticity the longer the wave will remain in the hair, because
less relaxation of the hair occurs.

HAIR DENSITY

Hair density is the amount of hair strands per square inch on the
scalp.

Smaller blockings and larger rods are often required for thickly
growing hair. If the hair is thin, per square inch, smaller blocking
sections and smaller rods are required in order to form a good wave
pattern close to the head. Avoid large blockings on a thin hair growth.

HAIR LENGTH

Long heavy hair requires more perming than short hair because
the hair’s weight will pull on the curls. Short, fine hair may become too
tightly curled if given the normal processing time.

RECONDITIONING TREATMENTS

Reconditioning treatments for previously treated hair must be

determined. Dry, brittle or damaged hair which was previously treated,
should be given reconditioning treatment prior to cold hair perming.
Recent developments in conditioners have proven to be beneficial to the
hair. Avoid any treatment requiring massage or heat just prior to a cold
wave. Such treatment would create a sensitive scalp.

Permanent waving, tinted, bleached or damaged hair can be a

problem. It is very important to analyze the hair properly.

PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES

These precautionary measures should be observed if previous

treatments are applied on the hair prior to cold wave:

1. Always use a pre-perm conditioner.

2. Use a mild shampoo before perming.
3. Use a mild cold wave lotion.
4. Make a test as often as necessary.
5. There is no room for error. Frequent checking is very important.
6. All color treated hair will have a degree of discoloration after
perm.

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PREPARING AND PLANNING THE PERM

For the patron, perming is a major step whose result she will have
to live with for several months. She may not be familiar with the perm
available. The operator should explain to the patron what perm is the
most suitable to her.

 Explain that a cold perm is designed to curl straight hair.

 Consider the style with respect to the patron’s age and lifestyle.
 Examine scalp closely if:
there are signs of inflammation, disease, cut skin; and
there is excessive grease or lacquer.
 Shampoo the patron’s hair.
 Select the correct perm lotion.
 Always read manufacturer’s direction carefully.
 Fill up in details the patron’s record card.
 Take note of the decided style and cost involved to prevent
misunderstanding.
 Minimize combing and brushing the hair.

HAIR PERMING RECORD

Patron’s Name :
Address :
Condition of Hair :
Type of Perm :
Processing Time :
Sizes of Rods :
Winding Technique :

Signature of Patron :
Date Tel. or Mobile #

Have a complete patron’s record card. Record any problems you

have had. This information will be useful if the hair is permed again.

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PERSONAL PROTECTIVE CLOTHING

There are several ways in which

the patron maybe draped for a cold
perm. The comfort of the patron,
adequate protection of person and her
clothing are important during the entire
procedure. One way to drape patron is to
place a small folded towel around the
patron’s neck, fasten the shampoo cape
over it, then place another towel over the
cape. Fasten the towel securely with
safety pin or clip.

LET US REMEMBER

 Wash hands with soap and water.

HOW  MUCH HAVE
Hairdresser YOU wear
should LEARNED?
a smock gown.
 Drape the patron with clean towel around the shoulders, on top of
Give a it
brief
is a answer to the
shoulder following questions.
cape.
 Prepare materials in accordance with salon policies.
1. How
Check doand
youanalyze
preparethe
thehair
patron
and before
scalp. perming?
2. Why is it necessary to examine scalp for abrasions?
 Check patron’s perming history to determine possible chemical
3. How should the hairdresser’s hands be protected in cold perming?
reaction.
 Provide with personal protective clothing.

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LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Put a checkmark in the column to indicate the degree of your

accomplishment. Use a separate sheet of paper.

PREPARING THE PATRON FOR PERMING

Fair Satisfactory Excellent
 Filled up patron’s record
card.
 Considered the style and
cut of the patron together
with the patron’s age and
lifestyle.
 Examinec the scalp for
inflammation or
excessive
grease.
 Shampooed the patron’s
hair.
 Selected the correct
perm lotion.

RESOURCES

Materials / Tools / Record Card of Patron

Materials: Equipments / Tools:
Shampoo Mirror
Tissue paper Trolley
Bath towel Patron’s chair
Smock gowns Shampoo
bowl Shoulder cape

REFERENCES

Colleti, Anthony B. 1964. Competency in Cosmetology: A Professional Text

Kibbee, Constance V. 1967. Standard Textbook of Cosmetology. New

York, USA: Milady Publishing Corp.

Palladino, Leo. 2001 Hairdressing: The Foundations, Level 2. Singapore:

Markono Print Media Pte Ltd.

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LESSON 2

PERFORMING BASIC HAIR PERMING

WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?

This lesson deals on how to prepare tools, supplies and equipment,

according to salon policies and procedure, have a thorough
understanding of the basic requirements for hair perming and performing
basic perming observing safety and sanitary measures.

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. prepare supplies, materials, tools and equipment;

2. cut, block, section and wind the hair according to agreed styles;
3. select and use the wave products according to hair analysis and
condition;
4. wind the hair following required steps and techniques;
5. monitor progress of waves according to manufacturer’s directions;
6. apply neutralizer;
7. shampoo the hair carefully following salon policies;
8. rinse and condition the hair; and
9. apply safety and sanitary precautions in accordance with salon
policies.

WHAT DO YOU ALREADY KNOW?

Pre Test:

Directions: Identify what is being described in each statement. Write

your answer in your quiz notebook.

1. A chemical in cold perming which is used to soften the wound hair

strands on the curlers.
2. It stops the action of the waving lotion on the hair an sets the new
hair into permanently curled position.
3. A material used to absorb excess water after shampooing.
4. A tool used to remove hair tangles.
5. It is used to hold the sectioned hair in place during the blocking
process of the hair.
6. A plastic material used to cover the head of hair during the
processing period to ensure heat.

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7. A porous paper used to ensure smooth winding in the cold wave

process.
8. A tool used to hold chemicals in the cold perm process.
9. A kind of comb used to comb out a newly curled hair.
10. It is used to protect the patron’s dress from getting dirty during the
cold perm process.
11. The process of determining in advance how the patron’s hair will
react to the cold waving process.
12. It is a term usually used to designate the subdividing of the hair
sections.
13. A tool used in cold waving to control the shape of the hair shaft
during the cold wave process.
14. It is the process of dividing the hair into uniform areas in
preparation for winding the hair.
15. A supply in cold wave process used to wash out the traces of cold
perm lotion on the curled hair.

LET US STUDY

Definition of Terms

Slanting inclining/leaning

Sag to droop/wilt

Strip bare

Drip splash/leak

Scalp the skin that covers the head

Pledget a compressed or flat mass of cotton

Blocking dividing the head of hair into bigger parts

Sectioning dividing the block of hair into smaller parts

Springy flexible

Damp moist

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BASIC HAIR PERMING

For good cold waving results, the hairdresser should closely watch:

1. materials, supplies, tools and implements needed

2. strength of the waving Lotion/Neutralizer
3. sectioning and blocking the hair
4. proper size rods/winding the hair
5. test curling
6. neutralization
7. safety and sanitary rules

Hair perming is a system of hair waving depending on waving or

curling action on chemical alone. In perming, curls or waves of hair are
close to the scalp. No heavy equipment is used. It is fast and easy.

Tools, Supplies and Equipment Needed

The materials used in perming the hair listed will render ease and
professional way of performing the activity.

1. Plastic Trolley – a handy tool used to hold the needed materials,

tools use in perming hair

2. Hair Dryer – used to dry 80% of the hair before performing the
perming activities

3. Drape Pan – used to accumulate the excess cold wave lotion while
resaturating the curled hair

4. Mirror – reflects the true representation and reflection of an

individual

5. Personal Protective Clothing – material used to protect the dress of

the patron and the operator

6. Curling Rods – tools used to produce curls and waves while the hair
strands are being wound around it

7. Comb with Tail – a tool used to remove hair tangles

8. Large toothed Comb – a tool used to comb out newly curled hair

9. Hair clips and Clamps – used to hold the sectioned hair in place.

10. End Paper – porous paper used to ensure smooth winding of the hair
around the curling rods

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11. Neckstrip – used to protect the dress of your patron from the small
cut hair during the cutting and trimming of hair

12. Processing cape – used to cover the head of hair after winding, to
insure heat and help in the easy processing of the head of curl

13. Perming lotion (cold wave lotion) – softens the hair so that it
assumes the shape of the curler around which is wound

14. Neutralizer – stops the action of the waving lotion on the hair and
sets the new hair into a permanently curled position

15. Application bottle –used to hold the chemicals in perming; it is

especially made of plastic

16. Shampoo and Conditioner – used to wash out the applied chemicals

17. Bath Towel – used to wipe off excess water on the hair after
shampooing

18. Tissue paper – used to wipe off excess moisture

19. Barber’s brush – used to remove small cut hair with the aid of
powder

20. Scissors – used to trim the hair after the cold wave process

CURLING RODS

Proper selection of curling rods is essential for successful cold

waving.

Rods control the shape of the hair shaft during the cold wave
process. They vary in diameter, length, composition and design.

Diameter – the distance through the center of the rod.

Circumference – the distance around the rod.

The circumference determines the size of the wave or curl

formation.

Rod lengths are available in long, medium, short and very short
sizes.

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RODS ARE GENERALLY CLASSIFIED AS ILLUSTRATED BELOW

CHEMICALS USED IN HAIR PERMING

THIOGLYCOLIC ACID, maybe present in a cold waving lotion. The

presence of the latter in a cold wave lotion gives it an alkaline reaction.
Other materials included maybe lanolin and its derivatives, wetting
agents, solutions of proteins and hair conditioners of various types.

WAVING LOTIONS vary in strength. They are available in both

one bottle or two bottle applications.

ONE-BOTTLE APPLICATION. The lotion begins the softening

action as soon as it is applied. The action slows down as the lotion
evaporates. The action is speeded up when the lotion is reapplied
to saturate the hair. Good workmanship and a reasonable amount
of speed is essential.

AVOIDCAUTION: Avoid interruption

INTERRUPTION DURING A during a one-bottle
ONE-BOTTLE application.
APPLICATION

TWO-BOTTLE APPLICATION. One bottle contains a lotion with

special ingredients to protect, equalize the porosity and strengthen the
hair shaft. It is applied prior to winding of the hair. A second bottle
contains the waving lotion and is used to saturate the hair.

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NEUTRALIZERS

Neutralizer is a chemical used to stop the action of the waving

lotion and rehardens the hair cells into their new form. After the hair has
assumed the desired shape, it is chemically neutralized. Conditioners are
often incorporated with the prepared neutralizer to impart luster and give
some protection to the hair.

SECTIONING AND BLOCKING OF THE HAIR

Sectioning is dividing the hair into uniform areas. Uniform wave

patterns depend on:

 Uniformly arranged sections

 Equally subdivided sections
 Clean and uniform partings
 Blockings which should be about ½ inch shorter than the rod
length.

Blocking is a term usually used to designate the subdividing of the

hair sections. This is done as each portion is wound around the rod. The
size of the blockings is determined by the diameter of the rods the density
and the texture of the hair.

Thickly growing hair requires smaller blockings and larger rods to

permit better arrangement for a wave pattern.

Thin hair requires smaller blockings and smaller rods to prevent

strain or breakage and to form a good wave pattern close to the head.

The average blockings for a standard wave pattern should be

slightly wider than the rod being used. Usually the blockings are smaller
at the nape of the neck.

CAUTION: If too much hair is wound around the rod or wound too tight, neither
the waving lotion nor the neutralizer will penetrate, resulting in an uneven
wave formation.

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SECTIONING AND BLOCKING PATTERN

WINDING AND WRAPPING THE HAIR

To form a uniform wave, with strong ridge, hair must be wrapped

smoothly and neatly on each rod without stretching.

Hair is not stretched due to the fact that the penetration of waving
lotion causes the hair to expand.

Tight wrapping or stretching interferes with this expansion and

prevents the penetration of the lotion or may cause hair breakage.

Correctly centered rods prevent possible scalp irritation and permit

a wrap closer to the scalp.

CAUTION: When wrapping hair, always prevent bulkiness on the rod. Bulkiness
prevents the formation of a good curl because the hair cannot conform to the
shape of the rods

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PROCEDURE FOR SINGLE FLAT WRAP

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PROCEDURE FOR A DOUBLE FLAT WRAP

Hair end protection. Porous end papers are used to insure smooth
wrapping and to prevent distorting the circle formation.

TEST CURLS

Test curls help to determine in advance how the patron’s hair will
react to the cold waving process. A pre-permanent test curl gives the
cosmetologist information on how best to protect the patron’s hair and
how to obtain the best possible results.

Regular testing enables the cosmetologist to observe the reaction

of the hair as to:

 Speed of the wave formation

 Overall picture of wave formation
 Exact time when peak of wave formation has been reached
 Resistant areas.

TEST CURL WAVE DEVELOPMENT METHOD

After the hair has been shampooed, wrap two or three curls on the
upper back of the head. Each curl is given a complete treatment being
timed and examined according to manufacturer’s directions. Use a
different type of waving lotion on each test curl to determine best results.
After neutralizing and rinsing the curls, judge and record the results.

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Test curl wave development method is the part of the

processing phase of a cold wave. Each head of hair is different. Conditions
vary, even on the same head of hair. A patron’s hair will not always
process the same length of time with its permanent wave.

Neither will one type of wave always process in the same length of
time on every head.

Wave Development should be tested:

1. immediately after the last rod is secured;

2. following the re-wet application; and
3. every 30 seconds thereafter until wave formation occurred.

Analysis of Test Curl

1. Thoroughly blot the waving solution from the curl to be

tested.
2. Loosen the rod fastener.
3. Unwind rod 1 ½ turns. Do not let the hair become loose or
unravel on the rod. Hold it firmly with thumbs touching the
rod.
4. Unwind without pulling on the strands. Since the hair is in
softened condition, pulling or stretching the strand will spoil
the test. Push the rod slightly toward the scalp, with the
thumbs holding the hair firm. Permit the hair to relax into a
wave pattern without pushing or pulling at it.
5. rewind the test curl

Continue testing for wave development at regular intervals. Test on

different areas of the head each time. Do not use the same curl for
retesting.

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APPLICATION OF WAVING LOTION

If the hair is being wound with waving lotion, apply the lotion ½
inch from the scalp. Extend it to about one inch from the hair ends.
Comb the lotion through the strand. Comb from underneath with an
upward motion, thereby distributing the lotion evenly throughout the
hair strand. Use about one fourth of the lotion n winding the entire head.
This assures that the hair is moistened with the lotion, not thoroughly
saturated.

Moistening the hair with the lotion, only for the wrapping
procedure, the action slows down. Then the hair on the rods must be
rewet or saturated to start the process again, this is the rewet
procedure. The additional lotion assures complete penetration into the
hair shaft.

REMEMBER
Always follow the manufacturers directions for winding and applying the waving lotion.

The cosmetologist should wear protective gloves to cover hands to protect the skin from chemica

CAUTION:

 DO NOT LEAVE THE PATRON ALONE WHILE PROCESSING THE

HAIR.
 DO NOT INTERRUPT THE REWET STEP.
 DO NOT PERMIT THE NOZZLE OF THE APPLICATOR BOTTLE
TO DRAG ACROSS THE ROD WHILE SATURATING.
 IF THE LOTION GETS INTO THE PATRON’S EYES,
RINSE IMMEDIATELY WITH WATER.

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APPLICATOR BOTTLE

A plastic bottle with nozzle top makes the most efficient applicator.
It dispenses liquid freely yet with good control. Bottles should be
absolutely clean before filling with perming lotion. Leftover traces of
neutralizer will weaken the action of the waving lotion.

PROCESSING TIME

Processing time is the length of time required for the hair strands
to absorb the waving lotion and complete the total rearrangement of the
hair cells around the rod.

Processing time varies due to:

 lotion;
 hair texture;
 hair porosity;
 hair length;
 hair condition;
 atmospheric conditions;
 patron’s body heat; and
 working speed of the cosmetologist.

WAVE PATTERN FORMATION

As the hair is processing, the wave has reached its peak when it
forms a firm letter “S.” The size of the rod used determines the size of the
“S” pattern.

The “S” pattern reaches a peak only once. It does not re-form
again. Beyond this point the hair is over-processed and damaged.

OVER AND UNDER PROCESSED HAIR RESULT

NEUTRALIZATION OF THE

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The waving lotion produces the curl formation by rearranging the

cells of the hair shaft into a new alignment. The rods hold the hair in this
formation until it is “hardened” or “fixed” by neutralization.

METHODS OF NEUTRALIZATION

There are three methods of application of

neutralizers in general use:

1. Applicator method. The neutralizer

comes prepared and has a thicker
consistency than other types. It is
applied with an applicator bottle
and can be done away from the
shampoo bowl. Some manufac-
turers refer to this type of
application as an instant method.

2. Self-lathering method. Due to its

shampoo content, this type of
neutralizer cleanses away the
waving lotion. It is also applied with
an applicator bottle. This is another
of the so-called instant methods.

3. Splash or pour-over method. This

is a diluted solution, using
neutralizer mixed with water as per
manufacturer’s directions. It must
be applied at the shampoo bowl.
Thorough application is absolutely
necessary for good results. It is
sometimes referred to as the
conventional method.
REMINDER:

Correctprocessingtimecan spell
difference between success and failure in cold waving

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BASIC HAIR PERMING PROCEDURE

I. INTRODUCTION

Cold hair perming is the way of changing through chemical process

a straight hair into curls or waves. There are several methods of giving a
cold perm. The suggested outline in this section is one of the several
ways that maybe used.

II. IMPLEMENTS, TOOLS AND SUPPLIES

Tools: Materials:
Applicator bottles (2) Mild shampoo
Porous end papers Cold waving lotion
Large toothed comb Neutralizer
Shampoo Cape / Processing Cape Curling Rods
Tissue paper
Protective Gloves
Trolley
Shoulder cape / Neck strips
Comb with tail
Large toothed comb
Hair clamps
Scissors
Record Card

III. PROCEDURE

A. Preparation Steps

1. Select and arrange required materials.

2. Wash and sanitize hands.
3. Seat patron comfortably; remove earrings and neck jewelry.
4. Drape patron, adjust towel and shampoo cape.
5. Remove all the hair accessories and comb patron’s hair.
6. Examine condition of hair and scalp.
7. Seat patron comfortably at shampoo bowl.

B. Manipulating Steps

1. Shampoo and thoroughly rinse hair.

2. Leave hair damp or dry hair 80% with blow dryer.
3. Shape hair.
4. Section and block hair. Start wrapping in the nape area.
5. Apply protective cream around patron’s hairline. Cover
operator’s hands with protective gloves.
6. Apply cold waving lotion either before or after wrapping
as required.

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7. Test curl immediately after saturating hair with the cold waving
lotion. Give test curls on different areas of the head.

8. Process hair for the required time.

9. Rinse out waving lotion thoroughly.
10. Apply neutralizer and retain for required time.
11. Unwind rods and remove carefully.
12. Apply neutralizer again, if required.
13. Rinse hair again.
14. Towel dry the hair.

C. Completion Steps

1. Check cold wave pattern and scalp.

2. Set, dry and style hair.
3. Discard used supplies.
4. Sanitize and clean used tools, and equipment.
5. Sanitize and wash hands.
6. Complete cold wave record card.

SAFETY RULES AND REMINDERS

For the protection of both the patron and the cosmetologist,

observe the following rules:

1. Examine scalp for abrasions and lesions.

2. Analyze hair before every permanent wave.
3. Obtain information concerning patron’s cold wave history.
4. Protect clothing of patron by proper draping.
5. Have the patron remove her glasses, neck and ear jewelry.
6. Select a mild shampoo and apply it without irritating the
scalp.
7. Eliminate hair brushing or massaging before a permanent
wave.
8. Use protective cream around patron’s hairline.
9. Protect patron’s face and neck with cotton strips
or neutralizing band during processing.
10. Cover cosmetologist’s hands with gloves or protective cream.
11. Use clean applicator bottles for solutions.
12. Avoid dripping of lotion on scalp and skin.
13. Immediately remove cotton strips or neutralizing band from
face and neck, if saturated with waving lotion. If neck towel
gets saturated with lotion, remove immediately.
14. For the removal of lotion drippings, blot with cotton
saturated with cold water. Apply neutralizer, if necessary.
15. If solution enters patron’s eyes, wash immediately with cold
water; or be guided by your instructor.
16. Do not leave the patron alone while the hair is processing.

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17. Test wave formation every 30 seconds during processing.

18. Take pre-permanent test curls when in doubt.

19. Be sure to neutralize the hair thoroughly.

20. Always follow manufacturer’s directions.
21. Do not use cotton to apply waving lotion.
22. Do not stretch the hair when wrapping.
23. Do not apply a color rinse, tint or lightener or any other
cosmetic that may cause damage to a new permanent.
24. Complete record card carefully and accurately.
25. Observe all rules and regulations pertaining to sanitation.
26. Do not allow patron to sit in a draft or near an air
conditioner.
27. Select proper size rods and waving lotion for the hair.
28. Use non-metallic bowls.
29. When applying waving lotion and neutralizer, be sure the
curls are thoroughly saturated.

LET US REMEMBER

HOW  MUCH
Always HAVE YOU LEARNED?
follow manufacturer’s instruction.
 If too much hair is would around the rods or wound too tight,
After several
neithersessions of discussions,
the waving the learners
lotion nor are required
the neutralizer will topenetrate,
do the
following:
resulting in an uneven wave formation.
 When wrapping hair always prevent bulkiness on the rod.
 a. Getpatience
Have their owntopatron and perform
your patron the following
and briefly explain accurately:
some details of
the variable factors governing cold wave.
1. Analyze hair and scalp
2. Prepare and drape patron
3. Section and block the hair
4. Wrap the hair

b. The students will practice for at least 5 patrons during the

grading period.

c. If they can do the activity well, they can now proceed to the
application of the cold perm chemical.

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Scoring Rubric
Performing Perm Hair
(5 is the highest possible score 1 is the lowest possible score)

Criteria Target Actual

Score Score
A. Workmanship 5
 Considered the appropriate style of the 5
newly permed hair.
 Had not permed a slight part of the hair. 3
 Had a very poor overall result of the 1
perming job.
B. Accuracy 5
 Correctly sectioned or wound up the 5
hair.
 Poorly sectioned or wound up the hair. 3
 Crudely sectioned and wound up the
hair. 1
C. Speed 5
 Sectioned and wrapped the hair at the least 5
possible time.
 Sectioned and wrapped the hair after the 3
prescribed time.
 Sectioned and wrapped the hair way beyond 1
the prescribed time.

D. Safety Measures 5
 Ensured client’s safety and comfort 5
during the process.
 Ensured client’s safety and comfort half 3
way.
 Ensured client’s safety and comfort only 1
to a minimal extent.

Total Score: 20

LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

A patron enters your salon and asks you to perm her hair:

a. What action would you take?

b. What questions would you ask?
c. What suggestions would you do for the pre perming care?

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RESOURCES:

Equipment / Tools / Implements / Materials and Supplies used

in Basic Hair Perming

REFERENCE:

Kibbee, Constance V. 1967. Standard Textbook of Cosmetology.

New York, USA: Milady Publishing Corp.

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LESSON 3

APPLY FINAL TOUCH

WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?

The lesson deals on how to check and apply finishing touches, how
to trim and taper the finished curls, How to give a professional advise for
the appropriate perm maintenance products, to the patron, and how
wave products are recorded and stored according to salon policies.

WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?

At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. check and apply finishing touches;

2. trim, taper and cut the hair;
3. advise patron to use maintenance products for her permed
hair; and
4. store and record wave products in accordance with salon
policies.

WHAT DO YOU ALREADY KNOW?

Pre-Test
Directions: Answer the following questions. Write only the letter of the
correct answer. Use a separate sheet for your answer.
1. Which treatment is given to a patron who has just received a cold
hair perm?
a. reconditioning treatment c. curl reduction
b. tinting treatment d. lightening treatment
2. How will you keep the hair in the best condition after a cold wave?
a. Massage the scalp. c. Have after-care treatment.
b. Color the hair. d. Apply setting lotion.
3. How often should shampoo be given after a cold wave?
a. everyday c. weekly
b. monthly d. yearly
4. How often should you trim a cold permed hair in order to make
hairstyle more serviceable?
a. as often as necessary
b. as often as directed by the cosmetologist
c. weekly
d. at regular intervals

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5. Which should be checked after perming?.

a. Has the scalp been irritated by the perm lotion?
b. Is the hair in good condition?
c. Is the curl even?
d. All of the above.
6. Which of the following means hair trimming?
a. Going over the already formed lines.
b. Cutting the extreme ends of the hair.
c. Thinning the entire head of hair.
d. Tapering the nape area of head of hair.
7. Which tool is advisable to dry the newly permed hair into style?
a. blow-dryer c. towel dryer
b. finger dryer d. fan dryer
8. Which is the best to use in trimming the newly permed hair?
a. scissors c. razor with safety guard
b. thinning shears d. all of the above
9. Which should be avoided when styling newly permed hair.
a. Avoid extreme heat. c. Avoid blow drying.
b. Avoid excess tension d. Avoid applying conditioner.
10. Which kind of comb is used in combing out newly permed hair?
c. Tissing comb c. all-purpose comb
d. Fine toothed comb d. large toothed comb

LET US STUDY

Definition of Terms

Tension – stress caused by stretching or pulling

Recondition –the application of special substance to the hair

in order to improve its condition

Rinse – to cleanse with second or repeated application of

water after washing

Irritated – to make inflamed or sore

Gently – not being harsh or rough

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AFTER AND FINAL CARE OF A PERMED HAIR

The after–care of the patron’s cold wave helps to keep the hair in
the best possible condition.

Reconditioning treatments for patrons also have a place in the

after–care of a cold wave and between cold waves.

It includes regular hair care, as follows

1. Shampoo hair weekly with proper shampoo and rinse.

2. Use proper hair conditioner as directed by the manufacturer.
3. Comb and brush the hair daily. Use type of brush best suited to the
hair.
4. Avoid excessive brushing or combing in the wrong direction.
5. Have the patron’s hair trimmed and styled at regular intervals in order
to make the hairstyle more serviceable.

CARING FOR PERMED HAIR

After having a perm your hair will be much drier. You will need to
condition your hair after every shampoo, and use conditioning oil
treatment once a week.

Avoid over brushing or blow drying for at least once a week after
the perm, as the heat may cause the hair to snap and split. Avoid heated
tongs and rollers for the same reason. For maximum cure, leave your
hair to dry naturally after washing and conditioning.

AFTER THE PERM

 Check the results of perming.

 Has the scalp been irritated by the perm lotion?

 Is the hair in good condition?
 Is the curl even?

 Dry the hair into style.

 Depending on the effect you want, you may now use

finger drying, hood drying or blow drying.
 Treat the hair gently. If you handle it too firmly the perm
may relax again.

 Advise the patron on how to manage the perm at home.

 The hair should not be shampooed for a day or two.

 The manufacturer of the perm lotion may have supplied
information to be passed to the patron.
 Discuss general hair care with your patron.

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 Clean all tools thoroughly so that they are ready for the next
patron.

 Complete the patron’s record card. Note details of the type of

person, the strength of the waving lotion, the processing time,
the curler sizes, and the winding technique. Record any
problems you have had. This information will be useful if the
hair is permed again.

WAVING TOOLS AND PRODUCTS STORED ACCORDING TO SALON

POLICIES

Waving tools such as combs, brushes, curlers, and so forth are

made from plastics. These materials are relatively easy to keep
hygienically safe, if they are used and cleaned properly in getting ready
for the next patron.

Combs should be washed frequently. When not in use they should

be immersed into an antibacterial solution. When needed they can be
rinsed and dried and are then ready for use.

Discard empty bottles and containers in a covered trash bin. Wave

products which were unused should be thrown and discarded in the
washing vessel if its liquid. Don’t bring them back in the original
container. Arrange them in the cabinet in the order of use. Read labels
carefully.

LET US REMEMBER

After having
HOW MUCH HAVE a YOU
permLEARNED?
proper hair care must be undertaken:
 You need to condition the hair after every shampoo.
 Useto
Give a brief answer a conditioning
the followingoil treatment once a week.
questions:
 Avoid over brushing and combing the newly permed hair.
1. Why  should
Avoid safety
blow drying forobserved
rules be at least ain
week
coldafter the perm as the
waving?
heat better
2. To achieve may cause hairwhat
results, to split.
should guide you in the perming
 Leave your hair to dry naturally after washing and
process?
conditioning.

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3. Why do we avoid stretching the hair after perming?

4. How often should you condition the permed hair?

LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED

Copy the table shown below. Then fill out the information required
to complete it.

CHECK LIST OF THE RESULTS OF PERMING

VERY
UNSATISFACTORILY SATISFACTORILY SATISFACTORILY
DONE DONE DONE
 Good condition
of hair was
attained.
 Scalp was
cleansed.
 Curls and waves
of hair were
achieved.
 Processing
time was met.
 Neutralization
was achieved.
 Hair style was
achieved.

RESOURCES

Equipment / Tools / Materials &

Supplies Patron’s Record Card

REFERENCES

Kibbee, Constance V. 1967. Standard Textbook of Cosmetology. New

York, USA: Milady Publishing Corp.

Palladino, Leo. 2001. Hairdressing: The Foundations, Level 2; Singapore:

Markono Print Media Pte Ltd.

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Post - Test

Let us find out how much you already know. Use a separate sheet.

A. Multiple choice. Write the letter of the correct answer on a separate

sheet of paper.

1. What is the material used to protect the patron’s dress from getting
wet during the shampooing process?
a. processing cape c. bath towel
b. shoulder cape d. hand towel
2. Which of the following refers to the degree of coarseness and fineness
of the hair?
a. hair density c. hair porosity
b. hair elasticity d. hair texture
3. What should an operator wear to protect her hands and fingers from
the cold wave solution?
a. hand cuff c. protective gloves
b. plastic bag d. wool crepe
4. Which material is worn around the patron’s shoulders to protect the
inner clothing?
a. bath towel c. neck strip
b. hand towel d. smock gown
5. What is the loose garment worn over other clothes as a protection?
a. shirt c. smock gown
b. jacket d. apron
6. What scalp condition should be examined very carefully before a cold
perm process?
a. abrasions c. inflammation
b. irritated scalp d. all of the above
7. Which of the following refers to the amount of hair strands per square
inch on the scalp?
a. hair density c. hair porosity
b. hair elasticity d. hair texture
8. Which classification of hair porosity can absorb the greatest amount
of moisture or chemicals?
a. good porosity c. poor porosity
b. moderate porosity d. unpredicted porosity
9. Which elastic quality of hair produces a resilient curl?
a. fairly good elasticity c. very good elasticity
b. good elasticity d. poor elasticity
10. Which body condition is exempted for having a cold perm process?
a. those who have allergy to the cold perm lotion
b. those who have satisfactory results from the cold perm lotion.
c. those who are accepting the cold perm lotion moderately
d. those who have fairly good elastic hair.
11. Which should be checked after perming?.
a. has the scalp bee irritated by the perm lotion?
b. is the hair in good condition?
c. is the curl even?

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d. All of the above

12. What does hair trimming means?
a. going over the already formed lines.
b. cutting the extreme ends of the hair.
c. thinning the entire head of hair.
d. tapering the nape area of head of hair.
13. Which drying tool is advisable to dry the newly permed hair into
style?
a. blow-dryer c. towel dryer
b. finger dryer d. fan dryer
14. What tool is best used in trimming the newly permed hair, which is
best among the following?
a. trimming scissors c. razor with safety guard
b. thinning shears d. all of the above
15. What should be avoided when styling a newly permed hair.
a. Avoid extreme heat. c. Avoid blow drying.
b. Avoid excess tension d. Avoid applying conditioner.
16. Which kind of comb used in combing out a newly permed hair?
c. tissing comb c. all-purpose comb
d. fine toothed comb d. large tithed comb

B. Identification: What is being described in each statement.

1. A chemical in cold perming which is used to soften the hair strands.

2. It stops the action of the waving lotion on the hair an sets the new
hair into permanently curled position.
3. A material used to absorb excess water after shampooing.
4. A tool used to remove hair tangles.
5. It is used to hold the sectioned hair in place during the blocking
process of the hair.
6. A plastic material used to cover the head of hair during the processing
period to ensure heat.
7. A porous paper to ensure smooth winding in the cold wave process.
8. A tool used to hold chemicals in the cold perm process.
9. A kind of comb used to comb out a newly curled hair.
10. It is used to protect the patron’s dress from getting dirty during the
cold perm process.
11. The process of determining in advance how the patron’s hair will react
to the cold wavin g process is.
12. It is a term usually used to designate the subdividing of the hair
sections.
13. A tool used in cold waving to control the shape of the hair shaft during
the cold wave process.
14. It is the process of dividing the hair into uniform areas in preparation
for winding the hair.
15. A supply in cold wave process used to wash out the traces of cold perm
lotion on the curled hair.

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KEY TO CORRECTION

Lesson 1 POST-TEST
PRE – TEST A.
1. b 1. c
2. b 2. d
3. a 3. c
4. b 4. c
5. a 5. c
6. d
Lesson 2 7. a
8. a
1. cold wave lotion 9. c
2. neutralizer 10. a
3. bath towel B.
4. comb with tail 1. Cold wave lotion
5. hair clips 2. neutralizer
6. processing cape 3. bath towel
7. end papers 4. comb with tail
8. plastic applicator bottles 5. hair clips
9. large toothed comb 6. processing cape
10. neck strip 7. end papers
11. test curl 8. plastic applicator bottles
12. hair blocking 9. large toothed comb
13. curling rods 10. neck strip
14. hair sectioning 11. test curl
15. water & shampoo 12. hair blocking
13. curling rods
Lesson 3 14. hair sectioning
1. a 15. Water and shampoo
2. c C.
3. c 1. a
4. d 2. c
5. d 3. c
6. a 4. d
7. a 5. d
8. a 6. a
9. b 7. a
10. d 8. a
9. b
10. d

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

What is this module about?..................................................................1

What will you learn?
LESSON 1
PREPARING THE PATRON..........................................................................2
What is this lesson about?
What will you learn?
What do you already know?..................................................................3
Let us study!
Definition of Terms
Advantages of Cold Perming
Basic requirements............................................................................4
Scalp and hair analysis
Scalp condition
Hair porosity
Hair texture
Hair elasticity.....................................................................................5
Hir density
Hair length
Reconditioning treatment
Pecautionary measures......................................................................6
Preparing and planning the perm.....................................................7
Personal protective clothing
Let us remember
Let us apply what you have learned.....................................................8
Resources
References
LESSON 2
PERFORMING BASIC HAIR PERMING......................................................9
What is this lesson about?
What will you learn?
What do you already know?
Let us study!.....................................................................................10
Definition of Terms
Basic hair perming...................................................................11
Tools, Supplies and Equipment Needed
curling rods...................................................................................12
Rods are generally classified as illustrated below........................13
Chemical used in hair perming
Avoid interuption during a one -bottle application ...........................
Neutralizers...................................................................................14
Sectioning and blocking og the hair
Sectioning and blocking pattern......................................................15
Winding and wrapping the hair
Procedure for single flat wrap..........................................................16

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Procedure for a double flat wrap.....................................................17

Test curls
Test curl wave for developing hair
Application of waving lotion............................................................19
Applicator bottle....................................................................................20
Processing time
Wave patttern formation
Neutralization of the hair.................................................................21
Methods of neutralization
Basic hair perming method.............................................................22
Let us remember.................................................................................24
How much have you learned?
Let us apply what you have learned...................................................25
Resources.............................................................................................26
References
LESSON 3
APPLY FINAL TOUCH.................................................................................27
Wht will you learn?
What do you already know?
Let us study!........................................................................................28
After and final care of permed hair.................................................29
Caring for permed hair
Waving tools and products stored according to salon policies.......30
Let us remember
How much have you learned?
Let us apply what you have learned................................................31
Resources
References
Post test..................................................................................................32
Key to correction....................................................................................35