Professional Documents
Culture Documents
SCIENCE OF
MEN’S HAIR DESIGN
TECHNIQUE GUIDE
OUR MISSION AT AVEDA IS TO CARE FOR THE
WORLD WE LIVE IN, FROM THE PRODUCTS WE
MAKE TO THE WAYS IN WHICH WE GIVE BACK
TO SOCIETY. AT AVEDA, WE STRIVE TO SET AN
EXAMPLE FOR ENVIRONMENTAL LEADERSHIP
AND RESPONSIBILITY, NOT JUST IN THE WORLD
OF BEAUTY, BUT AROUND THE WORLD. HORST RECHELBACHER
FOUNDER
aveda vision Connecting beauty,
environment and well-being.
aveda beliefs 5. We believe in inspiring and 9. We believe our actions, Introduction It’s important to develop a
1. We believe in treating ourselves, educating people to integrate products and services should Because men’s expectations mindset and vocabulary that is in
each other and the planet with wellness and beauty in their lives. always embody excellence. are often different than women’s, synch with his persona, to create
care and respect. it’s vital that male-specific design clear consensus around design
6.We believe in the power of 10. We believe personal and
objectives, techniques and objectives and to execute them
2. We believe social responsibility oneness, from our global image organizational balance is the
service philosophies are with strong technical strategy
is our responsibility. to a focused network. key to sustainable success.
applied to meet or exceed each and skill. This approach to service,
3. We believe ecological and profit 7. We believe learning never ends. 11. We believe true leadership male guest’s expectations. delivered in an atmosphere of
goals are mutually achievable. is delivered with passion care and comfort will help you
8. We believe in encouraging
and by example. build a healthy male clientele.
4. We believe our authenticity innovation and empowered
and experience are our points decision-making. Aveda continues our commitment
of difference. to bringing all relative technical
knowledge to the industry
by offering a comprehensive
approach to serving the male guest.
table of contents | © aveda 2007 X © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 3
table of contents | © aveda 2007 X © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 3
overview As men focus on optimizing their look, they turn to salon professionals for
elevated levels of design and technical expertise. An understanding of how
to ensure that your male guests have positive salon experiences will lead to
satisfied guests and lasting, loyal relationships.
objectives In this chapter, you will learn to:
1. Create a salon environment that is comfortable for men
2. Work within a Service Wheel that accommodates the guest from start to finish
3. Use appropriate language to effectively consult with your male guest and
men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color | © aveda 2007 X create design consensus X aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color
©
overview As men focus on optimizing their look, they turn to salon professionals for
elevated levels of design and technical expertise. An understanding of how
to ensure that your male guests have positive salon experiences will lead to
satisfied guests and lasting, loyal relationships.
objectives In this chapter, you will learn to:
1. Create a salon environment that is comfortable for men
2. Work within a Service Wheel that accommodates the guest from start to finish
3. Use appropriate language to effectively consult with your male guest and
men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color | © aveda 2007 X create design consensus X aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color
©
2
areas of focus on our Service Wheel:
Greeting, Treatment/Ritual, Goodbye
goodbye greeting
treatment/
ritual
Creating a Comfortable tHe serviCe wHeel
environment for men from tHe moment your guest walks tHrougH tHe salon door
not all men are as Comfortable as women in a salon until He pre-books His next appointment, you Have a series of
environment. to serve male guests well it’s important opportunities to build His trust and loyalty. being ConsCious of
to Consider tHeir masCuline point of view and do wHat tHe serviCe wHeel Helps ensure tHat you are Creating a
you Can to make tHem feel welCome and at ease. Comfortable experienCe for your guest from start to finisH.
Creating a The most effective way to make · Identifying male-specific
greeting treatment/ritual Once you and your guest agree goodbye
Comfortable sure a salon is comfortable for services on the menu on a design objective, the next
environment men is to visualize it through their When you visit someone’s The Greeting and Treatment/Ritual A product prescription and
· Offering men T-shirts step is to create a technical strategy,
for men eyes. Whenever possible, try to home, a warm greeting starts the areas of the Service Wheel intersect education, an invitation to
instead of gowns prescribe product and record
ensure your guest’s comfort by: experience on a positive tone. during the consultation when pre-book the next appointment
Humans are instinctive. When these decisions on a Service
· Trying to include hours In the same way, it’s important you ask open-ended questions, and a warm goodbye complete
they enter a new environment, · Displaying photographs of men Blueprint. With a firm technical
that accommodate you ensure that when your guest learn about your guest’s desired the Service Wheel. While saying
they are aware of a sense of with great hair strategy in hand, you can execute
early-morning guests enters the salon he is greeted outcome, offer design concepts goodbye to your guest, remember
space, color and tone that makes the hair cut with professional skill.
· Having men’s periodicals available warmly and offered a beverage. and come to a consensus. you are creating a lasting
them feel comfortable—or not. · Offering privacy to men,
in the waiting and styling areas While you finish your guest’s hair, impression of the experience
if requested, while they
take time to educate them about he’s had with you and your salon.
· Carrying a line of products receive chemical services
styling products and finishing
generally prescribed for men
techniques they can use at home
and making sure they are easy
to enhance their look.
to locate and understand
2 men’s hair design | modern male guest | creating a comfortable environment for men | © aveda 2007 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | modern male guest | the service wheel 3
2
areas of focus on our Service Wheel:
Greeting, Treatment/Ritual, Goodbye
goodbye greeting
treatment/
ritual
Creating a Comfortable tHe serviCe wHeel
environment for men from tHe moment your guest walks tHrougH tHe salon door
not all men are as Comfortable as women in a salon until He pre-books His next appointment, you Have a series of
environment. to serve male guests well it’s important opportunities to build His trust and loyalty. being ConsCious of
to Consider tHeir masCuline point of view and do wHat tHe serviCe wHeel Helps ensure tHat you are Creating a
you Can to make tHem feel welCome and at ease. Comfortable experienCe for your guest from start to finisH.
Creating a The most effective way to make · Identifying male-specific
greeting treatment/ritual Once you and your guest agree goodbye
Comfortable sure a salon is comfortable for services on the menu on a design objective, the next
environment men is to visualize it through their When you visit someone’s The Greeting and Treatment/Ritual A product prescription and
· Offering men T-shirts step is to create a technical strategy,
for men eyes. Whenever possible, try to home, a warm greeting starts the areas of the Service Wheel intersect education, an invitation to
instead of gowns prescribe product and record
ensure your guest’s comfort by: experience on a positive tone. during the consultation when pre-book the next appointment
Humans are instinctive. When these decisions on a Service
· Trying to include hours In the same way, it’s important you ask open-ended questions, and a warm goodbye complete
they enter a new environment, · Displaying photographs of men Blueprint. With a firm technical
that accommodate you ensure that when your guest learn about your guest’s desired the Service Wheel. While saying
they are aware of a sense of with great hair strategy in hand, you can execute
early-morning guests enters the salon he is greeted outcome, offer design concepts goodbye to your guest, remember
space, color and tone that makes the hair cut with professional skill.
· Having men’s periodicals available warmly and offered a beverage. and come to a consensus. you are creating a lasting
them feel comfortable—or not. · Offering privacy to men,
in the waiting and styling areas While you finish your guest’s hair, impression of the experience
if requested, while they
take time to educate them about he’s had with you and your salon.
· Carrying a line of products receive chemical services
styling products and finishing
generally prescribed for men
techniques they can use at home
and making sure they are easy
to enhance their look.
to locate and understand
2 men’s hair design | modern male guest | creating a comfortable environment for men | © aveda 2007 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | modern male guest | the service wheel 3
use leading RIGHT WAY: use tHe let your guests keep your talk only about four parts of tHe 1. introduCtion 2. information Questions that encourage
questions Is there a length you’re generally Consultation know wHat you Conversations wHat and wHy— Consultation Whether you greet your guests
Harvesting dialogue:
Leading questions encourage your
most comfortable wearing to let your expeCt and relevant to tHe not How During the consultation, be sure to at the door or meet them at your To encourage your guests to
Is there a length you generally
guests to speak freely about hair
your hair? guests know wHat you like salon experienCe I’m going to remove some weight answer all your guests’ questions station be sure to offer physical talk about their hair, ask questions
prefer?
length and comfort levels. They Do you have insights about what wHat you know Was traffic a problem today? Have you been offered a cup of tea? from the back and that’s going to and make sure they are feeling contact such as a handshake, plus that give them a chance to speak Is there anything you particularly
encourage an open discussion about usually works best for you? Has it been about six weeks since create less fullness and balance confident and comfortable. a smile and good eye contact. openly and allow you to gain like or don’t like about your hair?
The consultation can also be a Did you get a reminder call?
their interests and preferences While asking questions, let your you had your hair colored? the shape of your head. the information you need to Have you brought any pictures
time to let your guests know, in a Four parts of the consultation: Clearly offer your name…
and help you create design What kind of work do you do and responsibly create design options.
intent show through. Make it clear It looks as though you generally gentle way, what you expect from Remember that your guest cannot Hello, I’m Sarah. with you today?
options. And they reveal that you how does that influence the way 1. Introduction Along the way, listen and clarify
that you care about your guests wear you hair clean-cut around the them. If they’re late, for example, relate to descriptions of technical
intend to make them look good you wear your hair? State your intention… what you hear. Do you generally use product
and want them to be comfortable ears. Does that work well for you? you might ask about traffic or if approaches and industry jargon. 2. Information Harvesting
and feel comfortable. I’ll be cutting your hair today. to style your hair?
and happy with their hair. Show they had trouble finding the salon. As much as possible during the They only need to know the
Your guest is sitting in your chair 3. Clarification and Consensus
that you’re knowledgeable, assured consultation, keep your discussions And check in with their needs… tip: Generally, your guest’s Clarification questions:
WRONG WAY: feature and benefit of your design
because he expects to be in the Another effective approach is to 4. Circle Back biggest concern is the first one So you like your hair to fall
What do you want today? (You’re and can confidently offer design present and service-specific. idea or the product you are Did you find the salon easily?
hands of an informed professional. refer to another guest as a model mentioned. This “hot spot” topic
asking him to do the design work) options and suggestions. recommending. What they don’t Can I get you anything? will usually be talked about
slightly over your ears, then you
During the consultation, you can example. For instance: Through it all, let your intent show
need to understand is how you more than once and may be less comb it back?
Just a trim? (Not a leading question) reinforce this image by asking through: you care. You want them It’s a good idea to preview
That’s Bill who just left. He’s always negotiable than others. Take care
to be comfortable. You want their intend to technically create the what will be happening during So you’re more comfortable
questions or making statements to accommodate this concern
on time, comes in every six weeks, look. I’m going to use a scissors with less curl and you’d like to
that display your knowledge. service to meet their expectations. the service. in your design plan. Examples:
and refers the greatest people. and a faceted layers technique “I don’t want it above my ears.” minimize it?
You want to help them take care of
I thought we’d talk about your hair “Not too short on top.”
Your guest now knows how you their hair at home. And of course, means nothing to most guests.
and discuss what options might So you like the way this model’s
would like them to act within your you want them to look and feel great. hair is shaped in the back?
work best. Then we’ll shampoo your
professional relationship.
hair, cut it, rinse, style and finish. So you leave your hair wet and let
it air dry? o
6 men’s hair design | modern male guest | consulting with male guests | © aveda 2007 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | modern male guest | consulting with male guests 7
use leading RIGHT WAY: use tHe let your guests keep your talk only about four parts of tHe 1. introduCtion 2. information Questions that encourage
questions Is there a length you’re generally Consultation know wHat you Conversations wHat and wHy— Consultation Whether you greet your guests
Harvesting dialogue:
Leading questions encourage your
most comfortable wearing to let your expeCt and relevant to tHe not How During the consultation, be sure to at the door or meet them at your To encourage your guests to
Is there a length you generally
guests to speak freely about hair
your hair? guests know wHat you like salon experienCe I’m going to remove some weight answer all your guests’ questions station be sure to offer physical talk about their hair, ask questions
prefer?
length and comfort levels. They Do you have insights about what wHat you know Was traffic a problem today? Have you been offered a cup of tea? from the back and that’s going to and make sure they are feeling contact such as a handshake, plus that give them a chance to speak Is there anything you particularly
encourage an open discussion about usually works best for you? Has it been about six weeks since create less fullness and balance confident and comfortable. a smile and good eye contact. openly and allow you to gain like or don’t like about your hair?
The consultation can also be a Did you get a reminder call?
their interests and preferences While asking questions, let your you had your hair colored? the shape of your head. the information you need to Have you brought any pictures
time to let your guests know, in a Four parts of the consultation: Clearly offer your name…
and help you create design What kind of work do you do and responsibly create design options.
intent show through. Make it clear It looks as though you generally gentle way, what you expect from Remember that your guest cannot Hello, I’m Sarah. with you today?
options. And they reveal that you how does that influence the way 1. Introduction Along the way, listen and clarify
that you care about your guests wear you hair clean-cut around the them. If they’re late, for example, relate to descriptions of technical
intend to make them look good you wear your hair? State your intention… what you hear. Do you generally use product
and want them to be comfortable ears. Does that work well for you? you might ask about traffic or if approaches and industry jargon. 2. Information Harvesting
and feel comfortable. I’ll be cutting your hair today. to style your hair?
and happy with their hair. Show they had trouble finding the salon. As much as possible during the They only need to know the
Your guest is sitting in your chair 3. Clarification and Consensus
that you’re knowledgeable, assured consultation, keep your discussions And check in with their needs… tip: Generally, your guest’s Clarification questions:
WRONG WAY: feature and benefit of your design
because he expects to be in the Another effective approach is to 4. Circle Back biggest concern is the first one So you like your hair to fall
What do you want today? (You’re and can confidently offer design present and service-specific. idea or the product you are Did you find the salon easily?
hands of an informed professional. refer to another guest as a model mentioned. This “hot spot” topic
asking him to do the design work) options and suggestions. recommending. What they don’t Can I get you anything? will usually be talked about
slightly over your ears, then you
During the consultation, you can example. For instance: Through it all, let your intent show
need to understand is how you more than once and may be less comb it back?
Just a trim? (Not a leading question) reinforce this image by asking through: you care. You want them It’s a good idea to preview
That’s Bill who just left. He’s always negotiable than others. Take care
to be comfortable. You want their intend to technically create the what will be happening during So you’re more comfortable
questions or making statements to accommodate this concern
on time, comes in every six weeks, look. I’m going to use a scissors with less curl and you’d like to
that display your knowledge. service to meet their expectations. the service. in your design plan. Examples:
and refers the greatest people. and a faceted layers technique “I don’t want it above my ears.” minimize it?
You want to help them take care of
I thought we’d talk about your hair “Not too short on top.”
Your guest now knows how you their hair at home. And of course, means nothing to most guests.
and discuss what options might So you like the way this model’s
would like them to act within your you want them to look and feel great. hair is shaped in the back?
work best. Then we’ll shampoo your
professional relationship.
hair, cut it, rinse, style and finish. So you leave your hair wet and let
it air dry? o
6 men’s hair design | modern male guest | consulting with male guests | © aveda 2007 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | modern male guest | consulting with male guests 7
3. ClarifiCation PRESENT AN OPTION AND STATE PREVIEW PRODUCT AND CONSENSUS 4. CirCle baCk
and Consensus ITS FEATURES AND BENEFITS MAINTENANCE Before moving forward, recap
During the service, use affirmation
Based on what your guest has It’s very important that men the design objective. Be sure to
RECAP or deviation statements to circle
told you and your own knowledge know what’s involved with the avoid stylist jargon.
When you have gathered enough back with your guests and make
and skills, present the best design care and maintenance of their
information to start making We’re going to cut the bottom sure they’re comfortable with the
option and state its features look. Describe what product(s)
design suggestions, recap the short and create contour as we way things are progressing.
and benefits. and styling techniques they’ll need
consultation while highlighting move up to the top. We’ll leave
for home care and make sure AFFIRMATION
the most pertinent points. I can cut your hair to have a the top and front long so you can
they’re willing to support the look. I think this is working well.
casual, textured look. It should wear it several ways. Great.
I’d suggest that the best way Does this look like what you
grow out very well, but it may not When both of you are clear and Let’s go to the shampoo bowl.
to minimize your curl is to cut it were expecting?
be easy to duplicate exactly the comfortable with the design
a little shorter than usual and
next time you get it cut. Is that plan, move forward by creating a DEVIATION
use a styling product with a
important to you? Service Blueprint and completing I know we talked about leaving it
moisture barrier. .
the service. long in the nape but the growth
pattern is very strong and I think
tip: When offering design we’ll get better control if we cut it
solutions, it’s best to under-promise
in order to over-deliver. Make sure shorter. Will you be comfortable
you set reasonable expectations with that?
that you can meet or exceed.
Remember that when consulting
with your guests they should
feel informed, comfortable and
well cared for throughout the
service cycle.
8 men’s hair design | modern male guest | consulting with male guests | © aveda 2007
3. ClarifiCation PRESENT AN OPTION AND STATE PREVIEW PRODUCT AND CONSENSUS 4. CirCle baCk
and Consensus ITS FEATURES AND BENEFITS MAINTENANCE Before moving forward, recap
During the service, use affirmation
Based on what your guest has It’s very important that men the design objective. Be sure to
RECAP or deviation statements to circle
told you and your own knowledge know what’s involved with the avoid stylist jargon.
When you have gathered enough back with your guests and make
and skills, present the best design care and maintenance of their
information to start making We’re going to cut the bottom sure they’re comfortable with the
option and state its features look. Describe what product(s)
design suggestions, recap the short and create contour as we way things are progressing.
and benefits. and styling techniques they’ll need
consultation while highlighting move up to the top. We’ll leave
for home care and make sure AFFIRMATION
the most pertinent points. I can cut your hair to have a the top and front long so you can
they’re willing to support the look. I think this is working well.
casual, textured look. It should wear it several ways. Great.
I’d suggest that the best way Does this look like what you
grow out very well, but it may not When both of you are clear and Let’s go to the shampoo bowl.
to minimize your curl is to cut it were expecting?
be easy to duplicate exactly the comfortable with the design
a little shorter than usual and
next time you get it cut. Is that plan, move forward by creating a DEVIATION
use a styling product with a
important to you? Service Blueprint and completing I know we talked about leaving it
moisture barrier. .
the service. long in the nape but the growth
pattern is very strong and I think
tip: When offering design we’ll get better control if we cut it
solutions, it’s best to under-promise
in order to over-deliver. Make sure shorter. Will you be comfortable
you set reasonable expectations with that?
that you can meet or exceed.
Remember that when consulting
with your guests they should
feel informed, comfortable and
well cared for throughout the
service cycle.
8 men’s hair design | modern male guest | consulting with male guests | © aveda 2007
1
prinCiples of design
proportion as In the discipline of hair cutting, proportions tHe study of design allows a stylist to adjust the
a foundation there are many people who are tHat please tHe and Hair Cutting distribution of weight in a way
of design either technically proficient or Human eye exCellenCe that complements the guest’s
have a more creative feel for their bone structure.
Every artistic endeavor involves Throughout history, there have In many disciplines like graphic
work. When cutting men’s hair, it’s A well-conceived hair cut, poorly
a combination of imagination and always been proportions that are design, architecture and painting,
critical to not only be technically executed, is much better than
technical expertise. To a certain more pleasing to the human eye. the study of design is foundational
proficient but also to develop one that is perfectly executed and
extent, all creative expression They are patterned in nature, art, and involves a lifelong process of
expertise in seeing proportion and poorly conceived. To truly excel
involves a proportion of both. architecture and human anatomy. study, practice and skill evolution.
its relation to design. When you as a men’s hair cutter, it’s vital to
While there are musicians who From the escalating spirals found It is also imperative to excellence
master both skills, you can create focus first on developing a keen
cannot read music and painters in a common seashell to the in men’s hair cutting.
and execute design concepts that sense of proportion and design,
without formal training, it is preferred dimensions of a picture Over centuries of figure drawing,
complement individual hair types, then support that skill with
universally accepted that a high frame, the human eye has a and particularly portrait drawing,
head shapes and overall physiology. technical excellence.
level of technical proficiency natural tendency to enjoy certain certain proportions have emerged
supports creativity. proportional dimensions. as close to the human ideal. shape color
shape value
color position
value position
Understanding these proportions
2 men’s hair design | design assessment | principles of design | © aveda 2007 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | design assessment | principles of design 3
Design
1611-004_AVM_EduStu_Guide.indd 12-13 3/30/07 5:16:55 PM
size shape
size texture value
texture
1
prinCiples of design
proportion as In the discipline of hair cutting, proportions tHe study of design allows a stylist to adjust the
a foundation there are many people who are tHat please tHe and Hair Cutting distribution of weight in a way
of design either technically proficient or Human eye exCellenCe that complements the guest’s
have a more creative feel for their bone structure.
Every artistic endeavor involves Throughout history, there have In many disciplines like graphic
work. When cutting men’s hair, it’s A well-conceived hair cut, poorly
a combination of imagination and always been proportions that are design, architecture and painting,
critical to not only be technically executed, is much better than
technical expertise. To a certain more pleasing to the human eye. the study of design is foundational
proficient but also to develop one that is perfectly executed and
extent, all creative expression They are patterned in nature, art, and involves a lifelong process of
expertise in seeing proportion and poorly conceived. To truly excel
involves a proportion of both. architecture and human anatomy. study, practice and skill evolution.
its relation to design. When you as a men’s hair cutter, it’s vital to
While there are musicians who From the escalating spirals found It is also imperative to excellence
master both skills, you can create focus first on developing a keen
cannot read music and painters in a common seashell to the in men’s hair cutting.
and execute design concepts that sense of proportion and design,
without formal training, it is preferred dimensions of a picture Over centuries of figure drawing,
complement individual hair types, then support that skill with
universally accepted that a high frame, the human eye has a and particularly portrait drawing,
head shapes and overall physiology. technical excellence.
level of technical proficiency natural tendency to enjoy certain certain proportions have emerged
supports creativity. proportional dimensions. as close to the human ideal. shape color
shape value
color position
value position
Understanding these proportions
2 men’s hair design | design assessment | principles of design | © aveda 2007 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | design assessment | principles of design 3
Design
1611-004_AVM_EduStu_Guide.indd 12-13 3/30/07 5:16:55 PM
lue
placement orientation value
prinCiples of design
ion
position
placement
plaCement
orientation
orientation
value
value
or color
Color
Chap 2.x
DaVinci
Original
tHe ConCept of The concept of the Canon dates This same concept can be applied 2/26/07
tHe Canon back to Marcus Vitruvius Pollio, when viewing the male head
shape and looking for variations in
Chapaengineer
2.x
Roman writer, architect and
during the 1st century BC. proportion that may be adjusted
Design Principles 2 the idea of the
He introduced by the shape of the hair cut.
Alt 2
Vitruvian man, later made famous
by a Leonardo da Vinci drawing
2/15/07
that shows how the human
orientation value or color anatomy fits into fundamental
geometric patterns.
The Golden Section
Chap 2.x
men’s hair design | design assessment | principles of design | © aveda 2007 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | design assessment | head shape proportions 5
prinCiples of design
ion
position
placement
plaCement
orientation
orientation
value
value
or color
Color
Chap 2.x
DaVinci
Original
tHe ConCept of The concept of the Canon dates This same concept can be applied 2/26/07
tHe Canon back to Marcus Vitruvius Pollio, when viewing the male head
shape and looking for variations in
Chapaengineer
2.x
Roman writer, architect and
during the 1st century BC. proportion that may be adjusted
Design Principles 2 the idea of the
He introduced by the shape of the hair cut.
Alt 2
Vitruvian man, later made famous
by a Leonardo da Vinci drawing
2/15/07
that shows how the human
orientation value or color anatomy fits into fundamental
geometric patterns.
The Golden Section
Chap 2.x
men’s hair design | design assessment | principles of design | © aveda 2007 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | design assessment | head shape proportions 5
7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7
6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
1 1 1 1 1 1
1 1
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Head sHape 2. Place the center of the grid 3. Note the height to width Every head shape has its own Head sHape To use: 3. As a reference, most men See what a difference a 20% Just as the “front on” proportional
proportions directly between the guest’s relationship of the head shape. unique proportions. These head proportions in 1. Draw a vertical and a horizontal will have an approximately 50/50 variance in width-height evaluation of head shape is an
from tHe front eyes, on the bridge of the nose. As a reference, most men have shapes have been drawn to profile line through the grid’s center. relationship from in front of the profile dimensions can make important design consideration,
This separates
Chap 2.1
the head into an equal amount of distance reflect a 20% variance in width 2. Position the center of the grid ear to the front of the face
Chap and
2.6 in head shape. Chap 2.7 the profile evaluation is Chap
Most men’s hair cuts are short. When assessing the head shape
the upper (cranial)
The Canon half and above and below and on either to height relationship. in front of theChap
point
2.5where the ear from in front of the The
earSide
to the
Canon 1 The Side Canonextremely
3 valuable. The Side
That’s why it’s essential to 5x7 Chap 2.2 Chap 2.2 Chap 2.2 from the side or profile, a 7 unit 7x7 7x7 7
the lower (facial) half. side ofThe
the center lines. . attaches to the head.Grid
The Side Canon back of the head. .
understand the best possible Canon 1 The Canon 3 The Canon 2 by 7 unit baseline is used. Alt 4 Alt 3 These three very different head Alt
Alt 2
2/6/07 5x7 Head sHapes 5x7 5x7
7x7
2/14/07 2/12/07 2/14
balance between the head Alt 2 shapes will benefit from customized
Alt 4 and design Alt 4 Alt 4 2/6/07
shape proportion and the 2/14/07 2/14/07 2/14/07 hair cut design options.
chosen hair cut design. As you can see from these three
different head shapes, each
1. Draw two lines that intersect would create a unique set of
at the center of the grid, one note: Generally the jaw is design considerations.
vertical and one horizontal. between 3.5 and units wide
and the parietal ridge is 5.
The origin of the ear is parallel to
the pupil but the top of the ear is
higher. The distance between the note: The middle of the sideburn
tip of the chin and the mouth is divides the front of the head from
generally the same as from the the back of the head. The ears are
6 men’s hair design | design assessment | head shape proportions | © aveda 2007 hairline to the top of the head. on the back of the head. © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | design assessment | head shape proportions 7
7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7
6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
1 1 1 1 1 1
1 1
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Head sHape 2. Place the center of the grid 3. Note the height to width Every head shape has its own Head sHape To use: 3. As a reference, most men See what a difference a 20% Just as the “front on” proportional
proportions directly between the guest’s relationship of the head shape. unique proportions. These head proportions in 1. Draw a vertical and a horizontal will have an approximately 50/50 variance in width-height evaluation of head shape is an
from tHe front eyes, on the bridge of the nose. As a reference, most men have shapes have been drawn to profile line through the grid’s center. relationship from in front of the profile dimensions can make important design consideration,
This separates
Chap 2.1
the head into an equal amount of distance reflect a 20% variance in width 2. Position the center of the grid ear to the front of the face
Chap and
2.6 in head shape. Chap 2.7 the profile evaluation is Chap
Most men’s hair cuts are short. When assessing the head shape
the upper (cranial)
The Canon half and above and below and on either to height relationship. in front of theChap
point
2.5where the ear from in front of the The
earSide
to the
Canon 1 The Side Canonextremely
3 valuable. The Side
That’s why it’s essential to 5x7 Chap 2.2 Chap 2.2 Chap 2.2 from the side or profile, a 7 unit 7x7 7x7 7
the lower (facial) half. side ofThe
the center lines. . attaches to the head.Grid
The Side Canon back of the head. .
understand the best possible Canon 1 The Canon 3 The Canon 2 by 7 unit baseline is used. Alt 4 Alt 3 These three very different head Alt
Alt 2
2/6/07 5x7 Head sHapes 5x7 5x7
7x7
2/14/07 2/12/07 2/14
balance between the head Alt 2 shapes will benefit from customized
Alt 4 and design Alt 4 Alt 4 2/6/07
shape proportion and the 2/14/07 2/14/07 2/14/07 hair cut design options.
chosen hair cut design. As you can see from these three
different head shapes, each
1. Draw two lines that intersect would create a unique set of
at the center of the grid, one note: Generally the jaw is design considerations.
vertical and one horizontal. between 3.5 and units wide
and the parietal ridge is 5.
The origin of the ear is parallel to
the pupil but the top of the ear is
higher. The distance between the note: The middle of the sideburn
tip of the chin and the mouth is divides the front of the head from
generally the same as from the the back of the head. The ears are
6 men’s hair design | design assessment | head shape proportions | © aveda 2007 hairline to the top of the head. on the back of the head. © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | design assessment | head shape proportions 7
8 men’s hair design | design assessment | design principles for men’s hair | © aveda 2007 X © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 9
8 men’s hair design | design assessment | design principles for men’s hair | © aveda 2007 X © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 9
overview The excellent execution of a great design plan requires selecting and properly
using the right hair cutting tools. The Service Blueprint is an essential tool
for outlining your design objectives and planning a technical strategy.
objectives In this chapter, you will learn to:
1. Identify the primary tools used to cut men’s hair
2. Demonstrate the proper use of each tool
20 men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color | © aveda 2007 X 3. Use the Service Blueprint as a planning toolX aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 21
©
overview The excellent execution of a great design plan requires selecting and properly
using the right hair cutting tools. The Service Blueprint is an essential tool
for outlining your design objectives and planning a technical strategy.
objectives In this chapter, you will learn to:
1. Identify the primary tools used to cut men’s hair
2. Demonstrate the proper use of each tool
20 men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color | © aveda 2007 X 3. Use the Service Blueprint as a planning toolX aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 21
©
student
date
Blueprint Lesson 2
Tools-Edgers
Alt 1
22 men’s hair design | tools and the service blueprint | the service blueprint | © aveda 2007 Document hair design | tools and the service blueprint | tools of the trade 23
2/14/07
p 3.x
Cha on 2
© aveda 2007 | men’s
s
11 000
000 Les lipper-
ls-C able
Too hange
rc
Inte Alt 1
7
000 Chap3.x
Chap 3.x
/ 1 4/0
Lesson2 2 2
Lesson
Tools-Clipper-
Tools-Clipper-
1611-004_AVM_EduStu_Guide.indd 22-23 1
Interchangeable
Interchangeable
AltAlt
11
3/30/07 5:17:12 PM
1 2
blueprint a
design objective in guest terms
guest
student
date
Blueprint Lesson 2
Tools-Edgers
Alt 1
22 men’s hair design | tools and the service blueprint | the service blueprint | © aveda 2007 Document hair design | tools and the service blueprint | tools of the trade 23
2/14/07
p 3.x
Cha on 2
© aveda 2007 | men’s
s
11 000
000 Les lipper-
ls-C able
Too hange
rc
Inte Alt 1
7
000 Chap3.x
Chap 3.x
/ 1 4/0
Lesson2 2 2
Lesson
Tools-Clipper-
Tools-Clipper-
1611-004_AVM_EduStu_Guide.indd 22-23 1
Interchangeable
Interchangeable
AltAlt
11
3/30/07 5:17:12 PM
tools of tHe trade
sure they are clean and sanitized a clipper. It also helps avoid
Chap 3.x
according to your state’s unwanted scalp exposure. Lesson 2
Tools-Combs
regulatory guidelines. Alt 2
2/14/07
sure they are clean and sanitized a clipper. It also helps avoid
Chap 3.x
according to your state’s unwanted scalp exposure. Lesson 2
Tools-Combs
regulatory guidelines. Alt 2
2/14/07
1
Alt 1
3/2/07
2
Horizontal and Rounded Building Weight Cutting
Cutting Vertically
Vertically Extending
Extendingthe
the Shape
Shape
I7 I8 Vertical Building Weight
5 pahCChap 5
epahS snamoWRyan
lanoitidarT
lanigirO
Alt 1
70/6/3
3/1/07
Chap 5
Hamilton Cut
Alt 2
3/6/07
1
Alt 1
3/2/07
2
Horizontal and Rounded Building Weight Cutting
Cutting Vertically
Vertically Extending
Extendingthe
the Shape
Shape
I7 I8 Vertical Building Weight
5 pahCChap 5
epahS snamoWRyan
lanoitidarT
lanigirO
Alt 1
70/6/3
3/1/07
Chap 5
Hamilton Cut
Alt 2
3/6/07
3
s eCtioning teCHniques
seCtioning Helps you Cut your guest’s Hair in a neat and preCise
pattern wHile you skillfully form tHe sHape you desire.
subseCtions below
tHe parietal ridge
After dividing the head shape
into these two basic sections,
the hair cut begins in the temple
seCtioning tHe
transition area
After establishing the basic shape
below the parietal ridge, transition
into the top using the hair that has
seCtioning on tHe
top of tHe Head
After blending the transition
area using horizontal or vertical
subsections, work in ½ inch
There are five primary steps to Creating two This part can be adjusted to area. Work with ½ inch wide already been cut below it as a guide. vertical subsections pulled
Chapvertical
4.3
executing a man’s hair cut and primary seCtions influence the final shape. Higher
Sectioning Basic
subsections if the hair is straight up from the top of the
Ch_4.5 Ch_4.5 Ch
they relate to, and are enabled partings generally help create long
Alt 3 enough to hold comfortably head, starting just behind the ears
When cutting men’s hair, the top Sectioning 3 Sectioning 4 Se
by, how the head is sectioned. narrower shapes. between
2/13/07 your fingers. If cutting Alt 2 and Alt
moving
2 to the front hairline. Or
of the head is divided from the 2/13/07
1. Cut the area below the over a comb, work with 1 inch 2/13/07 2/
bottom with a horseshoe-shaped There are several options for
wide panels. Chap 4.4
parietal ridge part just above the parietal ridge. Sectioning 1 cutting the top of the head,
2. Cut the transition area Starting in the temple area, work Alt 3 depending on the design
above the parietal ridge from the right side of the head if 2/13/07 objective. Using vertical sections
you are right-handed or the left note: The first vertical will help create narrower shapes
3. Cut the top side if you are left-handed. This subsection cut near the temple and using horizontal subsections
is the “design section.” The Ch_4.4
4. Cut the front allows you to work from cut hair Sectioning 2 will help create more weight.
first series of 3 or vertical
(the guide) into uncut hair as you subsections is called the “design Alt 2 Varying amounts of disconnection
5. Detail and finish
move around the head. ' panel.” This design panel, which 2/13/07 will create more extreme
Chap 4.3
Sectioning Basic is based on your design objective, differences in the top lengths.
Alt 3 serves as a guide for the rest of
30 men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | sectioning techniques | © aveda 2007 2/13/07 the hair cut. © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | sectioning techniques 3
3
s eCtioning teCHniques
seCtioning Helps you Cut your guest’s Hair in a neat and preCise
pattern wHile you skillfully form tHe sHape you desire.
subseCtions below
tHe parietal ridge
After dividing the head shape
into these two basic sections,
the hair cut begins in the temple
seCtioning tHe
transition area
After establishing the basic shape
below the parietal ridge, transition
into the top using the hair that has
seCtioning on tHe
top of tHe Head
After blending the transition
area using horizontal or vertical
subsections, work in ½ inch
There are five primary steps to Creating two This part can be adjusted to area. Work with ½ inch wide already been cut below it as a guide. vertical subsections pulled
Chapvertical
4.3
executing a man’s hair cut and primary seCtions influence the final shape. Higher
Sectioning Basic
subsections if the hair is straight up from the top of the
Ch_4.5 Ch_4.5 Ch
they relate to, and are enabled partings generally help create long
Alt 3 enough to hold comfortably head, starting just behind the ears
When cutting men’s hair, the top Sectioning 3 Sectioning 4 Se
by, how the head is sectioned. narrower shapes. between
2/13/07 your fingers. If cutting Alt 2 and Alt
moving
2 to the front hairline. Or
of the head is divided from the 2/13/07
1. Cut the area below the over a comb, work with 1 inch 2/13/07 2/
bottom with a horseshoe-shaped There are several options for
wide panels. Chap 4.4
parietal ridge part just above the parietal ridge. Sectioning 1 cutting the top of the head,
2. Cut the transition area Starting in the temple area, work Alt 3 depending on the design
above the parietal ridge from the right side of the head if 2/13/07 objective. Using vertical sections
you are right-handed or the left note: The first vertical will help create narrower shapes
3. Cut the top side if you are left-handed. This subsection cut near the temple and using horizontal subsections
is the “design section.” The Ch_4.4
4. Cut the front allows you to work from cut hair Sectioning 2 will help create more weight.
first series of 3 or vertical
(the guide) into uncut hair as you subsections is called the “design Alt 2 Varying amounts of disconnection
5. Detail and finish
move around the head. ' panel.” This design panel, which 2/13/07 will create more extreme
Chap 4.3
Sectioning Basic is based on your design objective, differences in the top lengths.
Alt 3 serves as a guide for the rest of
30 men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | sectioning techniques | © aveda 2007 2/13/07 the hair cut. © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | sectioning techniques 3
32 men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | body posture for stylist and guest | © aveda 2007 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | building weight 33
32 men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | body posture for stylist and guest | © aveda 2007 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | building weight 33
3 men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | cutting vertical shapes | © aveda 2007 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | elongating the shape 35
3 men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | cutting vertical shapes | © aveda 2007 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | elongating the shape 35
Notes:
36 men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | elongating the shape | © aveda 2007 X © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 37
Notes:
36 men’s hair design | seeing and cutting shapes | elongating the shape | © aveda 2007 X © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 37
overview The Faceted Layers Technique is generally used to cut shapes that are mid-length
(approximately 1.5 to 4 inches long). This technique can help balance the head
shape. It is often associated with lean shapes and may have a slight tapered
effect near the bottom edge and side hairlines.
objective In this chapter, you will gain an understanding of How to execute the Faceted
38 men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color | © aveda 2007 X Layers Technique in three variations. X aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 39
©
overview The Faceted Layers Technique is generally used to cut shapes that are mid-length
(approximately 1.5 to 4 inches long). This technique can help balance the head
shape. It is often associated with lean shapes and may have a slight tapered
effect near the bottom edge and side hairlines.
objective In this chapter, you will gain an understanding of How to execute the Faceted
38 men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color | © aveda 2007 X Layers Technique in three variations. X aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 39
©
enougH fullness to obsCure His ears and to enCourage tHe The Faceted Layers Technique and hair’s moisture content. your guide into the uncut hair.
natural wave. we’ve also eleCted to leave an exaggerated disconnect the front to maintain 7. Pull the subsection directly 5
amount of lengtH tHrougH tHe top of tHe Hair Cut to furtHer additional length.
seCtioning into
toward you, parallel to the floor.
tHe fullness of tHe overall sHape and add a ClassiC feeling. upper and lower
Keep the subsection vertical with
This hair cut will be done with a seCtions 4
the fingers pointing up on the
guest Comfort scissors and a styling comb, using 5. Position your guest’s head hand holding the hair.
and proteCtion an edger to refine and detail. in a natural, upright position. 3
8. Use a scissors, 5.5 inches long,
1. Have your guest change into Using a styling comb, create a
3. Apply a sanitary strip around or longer, to cut the hair in a
a T-shirt if one is available. horseshoe-shaped part that runs
the neck and then drape the guest vertical line to the desired length.
along the top of the parietal ridge 2
2. Shampoo and condition your according to your state regulations
and continues above the occipital 9. When you have finished 3 or 4
guest’s hair. . for sanitation and safety.
bone in the back. If the hair is long vertical subsections, cross-check 1
enough, clip it in place on top. over your comb to ensure balance
This divides the head into upper and consistency. . 1 2 3 4 5
note: We recommend the and lower sections.
I7 stylist give every guest a Stress-
I7 Relieving Scalp Ritual. This note: These first few
allows the stylist to become subsections create a design
familiar with the contours of panel that will serve as both
I8 I8
the individual head shape, and a visual and technical guide for
provides a valuable, relaxing each subsection as you work
0 men’s hair design | the faceted layers technique | the faceted layers technique | © aveda 2007 service for the guest. around the head shape. © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | the faceted layers technique | the faceted layers technique
enougH fullness to obsCure His ears and to enCourage tHe The Faceted Layers Technique and hair’s moisture content. your guide into the uncut hair.
natural wave. we’ve also eleCted to leave an exaggerated disconnect the front to maintain 7. Pull the subsection directly 5
amount of lengtH tHrougH tHe top of tHe Hair Cut to furtHer additional length.
seCtioning into
toward you, parallel to the floor.
tHe fullness of tHe overall sHape and add a ClassiC feeling. upper and lower
Keep the subsection vertical with
This hair cut will be done with a seCtions 4
the fingers pointing up on the
guest Comfort scissors and a styling comb, using 5. Position your guest’s head hand holding the hair.
and proteCtion an edger to refine and detail. in a natural, upright position. 3
8. Use a scissors, 5.5 inches long,
1. Have your guest change into Using a styling comb, create a
3. Apply a sanitary strip around or longer, to cut the hair in a
a T-shirt if one is available. horseshoe-shaped part that runs
the neck and then drape the guest vertical line to the desired length.
along the top of the parietal ridge 2
2. Shampoo and condition your according to your state regulations
and continues above the occipital 9. When you have finished 3 or 4
guest’s hair. . for sanitation and safety.
bone in the back. If the hair is long vertical subsections, cross-check 1
enough, clip it in place on top. over your comb to ensure balance
This divides the head into upper and consistency. . 1 2 3 4 5
note: We recommend the and lower sections.
I7 stylist give every guest a Stress-
I7 Relieving Scalp Ritual. This note: These first few
allows the stylist to become subsections create a design
familiar with the contours of panel that will serve as both
I8 I8
the individual head shape, and a visual and technical guide for
provides a valuable, relaxing each subsection as you work
0 men’s hair design | the faceted layers technique | the faceted layers technique | © aveda 2007 service for the guest. around the head shape. © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | the faceted layers technique | the faceted layers technique
Cut tHe primary Cut tHe 17. Move to the left side of the 21. Cut a line across this point to sHampoo and style
sHape transition area head and repeat this process connect the right and left sections
27. Shampoo the guest’s hair, towel
of creating and cutting ½ inch at the top.
10. After establishing the shape 13. While standing on the right it dry, apply a styling product and
horizontal subsections, working
in the design section, continue to side, create a ½ inch horizontal 22. Continue working in ½ inch comb it in place.
from just above the parietal ridge
work in ½ inch vertical subsections subsection from the area behind subsections, moving forward
to the top of the head. Color serviCe
below the parietal ridge. As you the ear to the front hairline. This toward the front hairline.
transition behind the ear, work subsection should be parallel to Cut tHe baCk Cut tHe front For hair color, highlights were variation 1
from a vertical subsection pulled the lower section created at the
18. Work around the back of the
placed to create a natural, tHis guest Has a well-proportioned Head sHape but He Has
directly off the occipital area. . beginning of the technique.
head, creating ½ inch horizontal
23. After completing the interior sun-lightened effect using the very fine Hair. tHe design objeCtives are to build Contour
11. Work around the head shape 14. Pull this subsection directly subsections parallel to the original
shape, create ½ inch diagonal Partial Head Foil application. and roundness tHrougH tHe parietal area, to flatten out tHe
while creating and cutting ½ inch toward you and lift it to identify horseshoe-shaped part.
subsections parallel to the front To add gloss and shine, an ØN oCCipital area and establisH a more ClassiC, tapered neCkline. He
vertical subsections. Continue your guide. hairline. Create the design section formula was applied using a feels tHat His Hair gives Him more versatility wHen it Can be worn
this technique until you have cut 19. Pull the hair straight out and for the front hairline and work into Virgin Darker application. eitHer down aCross His foreHead or baCk off of His faCe. tHe
15. With the subsection parallel to
the shape in the lower half of match the guide underneath to the interior on parallel subsections
Partial Head Foil Application best solution is to leave enougH lengtH on tHe top and aCross
the floor, create a new guide that
the head. create the desired shape. . until you run out of hair. tHe front to provide Him witH tHe versatility He’s looking for.
meets the previously cut hair, just In foil packet
24. Repeat this process on the left
12. As you come to the left parietal behind the ear. Cut tHe top Color serviCe
front side. Full Spectrum™ Protective
area, make sure to position your
16. Continue working toward 20. Stand directly behind the Permanent Creme Hair Color: Full Head Color with Slices
guest’s head back in the natural, 25. Stand directly in front of your
the center part while creating guest’s head and create a ½ inch · 9B/B Very Light Intense Ash Blonde Application (variation)
upright position. guest and take a ½ inch subsection
and cutting ½ inch horizontal vertical subsection from parietal + 40 Volume Color Catalyst™
subsections. As you work, to connect the front hairline. Cut In foil packet
ridge to parietal ridge just behind Creme Developer
remember to hold the subsections according to your design objective.
the ears. This subsection produces Full Spectrum™ Protective
· 8V/B Light Ash Blonde
parallel to the floor. . a point at the top of the head. / Permanent Creme Hair Color:
detail and finisH + 30 Volume Color Catalyst™
note: Remember to tilt your · 9B/B Very Light Intense
guest’s head away from you 26. When the final shape is cut, Creme Developer
Ash Blonde
to build a moderate amount of note: The length of this clean up the perimeter with a Virgin Darker Application + Volume Color Catalyst™
contour toward the neckline. transition area and the amount of scissors and an edger to articulate
Using the design section as your disconnection is determined by
Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Creme Developer
guide, continue to stand directly the density of your guest’s hair and add longevity to the hair cut. Color Treatment:
note: By connecting the hair in All-over color:
in front of the area you are cutting. and your overall design objective. · ØN Colorless Treatment
the transition area on the back of I7 I8 I7 I8
+ Color Treatment Activator Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only
the head to the previously cut hair note: Remember that the more
below the parietal ridge, you avoid hair you take off the top, the more Color Treatment:
undesired build-up of weight in weight you will distribute back into · ØN Colorless Treatment Chap 5 Chap 5
2 men’s hair design | the faceted layers technique | the faceted layers technique | © aveda 2007 the interior of the hair cut. the transition area of the hair cut. + Color Treatment Activator Chris-Scott Cut © aveda 2007 | men’s Chris-Scott Cut
hair design | the faceted layers technique | the faceted layers technique variation 1 3
Alt 1 Alt 1
3/2/07 3/2/07
1611-004_AVM_EduStu_Guide.indd 42-43 3/30/07 5:17:47 PM
2
tHe faCeted layers teCHnique
Cut tHe primary Cut tHe 17. Move to the left side of the 21. Cut a line across this point to sHampoo and style
sHape transition area head and repeat this process connect the right and left sections
27. Shampoo the guest’s hair, towel
of creating and cutting ½ inch at the top.
10. After establishing the shape 13. While standing on the right it dry, apply a styling product and
horizontal subsections, working
in the design section, continue to side, create a ½ inch horizontal 22. Continue working in ½ inch comb it in place.
from just above the parietal ridge
work in ½ inch vertical subsections subsection from the area behind subsections, moving forward
to the top of the head. Color serviCe
below the parietal ridge. As you the ear to the front hairline. This toward the front hairline.
transition behind the ear, work subsection should be parallel to Cut tHe baCk Cut tHe front For hair color, highlights were variation 1
from a vertical subsection pulled the lower section created at the
18. Work around the back of the
placed to create a natural, tHis guest Has a well-proportioned Head sHape but He Has
directly off the occipital area. . beginning of the technique.
head, creating ½ inch horizontal
23. After completing the interior sun-lightened effect using the very fine Hair. tHe design objeCtives are to build Contour
11. Work around the head shape 14. Pull this subsection directly subsections parallel to the original
shape, create ½ inch diagonal Partial Head Foil application. and roundness tHrougH tHe parietal area, to flatten out tHe
while creating and cutting ½ inch toward you and lift it to identify horseshoe-shaped part.
subsections parallel to the front To add gloss and shine, an ØN oCCipital area and establisH a more ClassiC, tapered neCkline. He
vertical subsections. Continue your guide. hairline. Create the design section formula was applied using a feels tHat His Hair gives Him more versatility wHen it Can be worn
this technique until you have cut 19. Pull the hair straight out and for the front hairline and work into Virgin Darker application. eitHer down aCross His foreHead or baCk off of His faCe. tHe
15. With the subsection parallel to
the shape in the lower half of match the guide underneath to the interior on parallel subsections
Partial Head Foil Application best solution is to leave enougH lengtH on tHe top and aCross
the floor, create a new guide that
the head. create the desired shape. . until you run out of hair. tHe front to provide Him witH tHe versatility He’s looking for.
meets the previously cut hair, just In foil packet
24. Repeat this process on the left
12. As you come to the left parietal behind the ear. Cut tHe top Color serviCe
front side. Full Spectrum™ Protective
area, make sure to position your
16. Continue working toward 20. Stand directly behind the Permanent Creme Hair Color: Full Head Color with Slices
guest’s head back in the natural, 25. Stand directly in front of your
the center part while creating guest’s head and create a ½ inch · 9B/B Very Light Intense Ash Blonde Application (variation)
upright position. guest and take a ½ inch subsection
and cutting ½ inch horizontal vertical subsection from parietal + 40 Volume Color Catalyst™
subsections. As you work, to connect the front hairline. Cut In foil packet
ridge to parietal ridge just behind Creme Developer
remember to hold the subsections according to your design objective.
the ears. This subsection produces Full Spectrum™ Protective
· 8V/B Light Ash Blonde
parallel to the floor. . a point at the top of the head. / Permanent Creme Hair Color:
detail and finisH + 30 Volume Color Catalyst™
note: Remember to tilt your · 9B/B Very Light Intense
guest’s head away from you 26. When the final shape is cut, Creme Developer
Ash Blonde
to build a moderate amount of note: The length of this clean up the perimeter with a Virgin Darker Application + Volume Color Catalyst™
contour toward the neckline. transition area and the amount of scissors and an edger to articulate
Using the design section as your disconnection is determined by
Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Creme Developer
guide, continue to stand directly the density of your guest’s hair and add longevity to the hair cut. Color Treatment:
note: By connecting the hair in All-over color:
in front of the area you are cutting. and your overall design objective. · ØN Colorless Treatment
the transition area on the back of I7 I8 I7 I8
+ Color Treatment Activator Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only
the head to the previously cut hair note: Remember that the more
below the parietal ridge, you avoid hair you take off the top, the more Color Treatment:
undesired build-up of weight in weight you will distribute back into · ØN Colorless Treatment Chap 5 Chap 5
2 men’s hair design | the faceted layers technique | the faceted layers technique | © aveda 2007 the interior of the hair cut. the transition area of the hair cut. + Color Treatment Activator Chris-Scott Cut © aveda 2007 | men’s Chris-Scott Cut
hair design | the faceted layers technique | the faceted layers technique variation 1 3
Alt 1 Alt 1
3/2/07 3/2/07
1611-004_AVM_EduStu_Guide.indd 42-43 3/30/07 5:17:47 PM
3
variation 2
tHis guest’s faCe sHape is relatively oval and narrow.
fullness in His Hair Cut effeCtively balanCes His Head sHape
and Helps Create a more modern feeling, wHiCH He enjoys.
tHe best solution is to extend tHe lengtH and remove
weigHt from His very dense Hair wHile leaving enougH
fullness to Compensate for His narrow, oval features.
Color serviCe
Virgin Darker Application
Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only
Color Treatment:
· ØN Colorless Treatment
+ Color Treatment Activator
I7 I8 I7 I8
men’s hair design | the faceted layers technique | the faceted layers technique variation 2 | © aveda 2007 X © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 5
Chap 5 Chap 5
Hamilton Cut Hamilton Cut
1611-004_AVM_EduStu_Guide.indd 44-45 Alt 2 Alt 2 3/30/07 5:17:50 PM
3
variation 2
tHis guest’s faCe sHape is relatively oval and narrow.
fullness in His Hair Cut effeCtively balanCes His Head sHape
and Helps Create a more modern feeling, wHiCH He enjoys.
tHe best solution is to extend tHe lengtH and remove
weigHt from His very dense Hair wHile leaving enougH
fullness to Compensate for His narrow, oval features.
Color serviCe
Virgin Darker Application
Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only
Color Treatment:
· ØN Colorless Treatment
+ Color Treatment Activator
I7 I8 I7 I8
men’s hair design | the faceted layers technique | the faceted layers technique variation 2 | © aveda 2007 X © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 5
Chap 5 Chap 5
Hamilton Cut Hamilton Cut
1611-004_AVM_EduStu_Guide.indd 44-45 Alt 2 Alt 2 3/30/07 5:17:50 PM
chapter 6: the freehand and Over-comb Technique
overview The Freehand and Over-comb Technique is generally used to cut shapes that are
short and help balance and enhance the head shape. The scalp is often visible
through the hair on the lower section of the head. This cutting technique
results in hair that tapers from zero or minimal scalp coverage at the edge of
the shape to more density in the interior.
objective In this chapter, you will gain an understanding of How to execute the Freehand
46 men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color | © aveda 2007 X and Over-comb Technique in three variations. X aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 47
©
overview The Freehand and Over-comb Technique is generally used to cut shapes that are
short and help balance and enhance the head shape. The scalp is often visible
through the hair on the lower section of the head. This cutting technique
results in hair that tapers from zero or minimal scalp coverage at the edge of
the shape to more density in the interior.
objective In this chapter, you will gain an understanding of How to execute the Freehand
46 men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color | © aveda 2007 X and Over-comb Technique in three variations. X aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 47
©
Cut over-Comb in through the teeth of the comb Cut freeHand at Cut tHe transition 18. After working from behind the Cut tHe top 23. Work forward to the front detail and finisH Color serviCe
tHe lower seCtion on the right side. Pull the comb tHe nape tip: The Freehand Technique area right ear forward, stand directly hairline while creating and
allows you to cut hair shorter 21. Stand directly behind the 25. When the final shape is cut, A Shoeshine Application was
straight toward you until the base than you can when working over in front of the guest’s head and cutting ½ inch vertical subsections,
9. Move approximately 1 inch to 13. After cutting the first vertical 15. Stand directly behind the guest’s head and create a ½ inch clean up the perimeter with an used to accent the ends of the
of the comb is in line with the a comb. The use of the Freehand create and cut a ½ inch vertical pulled straight out from the head.
the left and position the comb panel in the back, while using the guest’s head and create a ½ inch vertical subsection from parietal edger to articulate and add hair and emphasize the shape
previously cut hair from the Technique, blending into the subsection from the center part to
under the hair with the teeth previously cut panel as a guide, Over-comb Technique can be vertical subsection from the center ridge to parietal ridge just behind Cut tHe front longevity to the hair cut. , of the hair cut.
design section. the parietal ridge directly behind
pointed straight up, combining tilt your guest’s head away and applied anywhere in a hair cut. part to the parietal ridge, directly the right ear. This subsection
the left ear. Shoe Shine Application
Freehand and Over-comb 11. While establishing a cadence, anchor the clipper at the bottom of behind the right ear. will produce a point at the top 24. Stand directly in front of your sHampoo and style
note: Maintain contact with guest and take ½ inch horizontal
Techniques. remove hair as you move up the hairline. Then follow through 19. Continue working in ½ inch of the head. Full Spectrum™ Protective
the base of the clipper blade 16. Pull this subsection straight 26. Shampoo the guest’s hair,
through the vertical panel. Repeat with the same vertical motion until the cutting edge has cleared vertical subsections, moving to subsections along the front Permanent Creme Hair Color:
10. Place the comb directly out from the head and cut a 22. Cut a line across it to connect towel-dry, apply a styling
the same motion with the cutting used when cutting over comb. the previously cut hair. Then the front hairline. hairline. Cut according to your · 10V/B Lightest Ash Blonde
against the head and identify follow through with the same design section while using the the right and left sections at the top. product and comb it in place.
tool and comb as you move design concept. For this guest, the + 30 Volume Color Catalyst™
the previously cut hair coming 14. Continue working around vertical motion used when cutting previously cut hair below the 20. After completing the left front is cut very short to lengthen
through this second panel. , . Creme Developer
the head shape to the front over-comb. Cutting short hair is parietal ridge as a guide. side transition, work around
always a combination of using the the look of his narrow forehead.
12. Working from your guide, hairline while cuting the vertical the crown in ½ inch vertical · 9B/B Very Light Intense
note: You will find that previously cut hair as a technical 17. Using this design section as
different head shapes and hair repeat this technique in 1 inch panels over-comb. Then pie-shaped subsections. Ash Blonde
guide, while using your mirror a guide, create and cut ½ inch
types will influence your ability vertical panels as you move readdress the panel in the and eye to ensure the appearance + 40 Volume Color Catalyst™
to keep your panels truly vertical. subsections while working forward
around the head shape. nape area while using a freehand of even blends and transitions. Creme Developer
In both Freehand and Over-comb to the front hairline. Make sure
work, the teeth of your tools will clipper technique. ' tip: As you work, use ²⁄³ this is a moving guide and that
create the best tension if they are of the clipper blade width to
remove uncut hair while ¹⁄³ each subsection is pulled straight
positioned directly against the
growth pattern of the hair. The of the clipper blade moves over out from the head.
goal is to try to keep your panels the previously cut hair. note: Always work methodically,
as vertical as possible. If you tip: There are areas of the head beginning in the right temple and
note: You will always have the working around the head shape.
have to deviate to create proper where you will want to leave more previously cut hair to use as a
tension with your tools, bring the or less volume. Always be conscious Use your mirror as a visual guide
guide between the teeth of your to help you balance and refine
panels back to vertical as soon as of where you are building or comb. Also remember to use
the hair growth will allow. reducing weight as you work. the shape. Variations in hair
your mirror as a visual guide to pigment will require additional
maintain consistency as you work blending and refining.
50 men’s hair design | the freehand and over-comb technique | the freehand and over-comb technique | © aveda 2007 around the head shape. © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | the freehand and over-comb technique | the freehand and over-comb technique 5
Cut over-Comb in through the teeth of the comb Cut freeHand at Cut tHe transition 18. After working from behind the Cut tHe top 23. Work forward to the front detail and finisH Color serviCe
tHe lower seCtion on the right side. Pull the comb tHe nape tip: The Freehand Technique area right ear forward, stand directly hairline while creating and
allows you to cut hair shorter 21. Stand directly behind the 25. When the final shape is cut, A Shoeshine Application was
straight toward you until the base than you can when working over in front of the guest’s head and cutting ½ inch vertical subsections,
9. Move approximately 1 inch to 13. After cutting the first vertical 15. Stand directly behind the guest’s head and create a ½ inch clean up the perimeter with an used to accent the ends of the
of the comb is in line with the a comb. The use of the Freehand create and cut a ½ inch vertical pulled straight out from the head.
the left and position the comb panel in the back, while using the guest’s head and create a ½ inch vertical subsection from parietal edger to articulate and add hair and emphasize the shape
previously cut hair from the Technique, blending into the subsection from the center part to
under the hair with the teeth previously cut panel as a guide, Over-comb Technique can be vertical subsection from the center ridge to parietal ridge just behind Cut tHe front longevity to the hair cut. , of the hair cut.
design section. the parietal ridge directly behind
pointed straight up, combining tilt your guest’s head away and applied anywhere in a hair cut. part to the parietal ridge, directly the right ear. This subsection
the left ear. Shoe Shine Application
Freehand and Over-comb 11. While establishing a cadence, anchor the clipper at the bottom of behind the right ear. will produce a point at the top 24. Stand directly in front of your sHampoo and style
note: Maintain contact with guest and take ½ inch horizontal
Techniques. remove hair as you move up the hairline. Then follow through 19. Continue working in ½ inch of the head. Full Spectrum™ Protective
the base of the clipper blade 16. Pull this subsection straight 26. Shampoo the guest’s hair,
through the vertical panel. Repeat with the same vertical motion until the cutting edge has cleared vertical subsections, moving to subsections along the front Permanent Creme Hair Color:
10. Place the comb directly out from the head and cut a 22. Cut a line across it to connect towel-dry, apply a styling
the same motion with the cutting used when cutting over comb. the previously cut hair. Then the front hairline. hairline. Cut according to your · 10V/B Lightest Ash Blonde
against the head and identify follow through with the same design section while using the the right and left sections at the top. product and comb it in place.
tool and comb as you move design concept. For this guest, the + 30 Volume Color Catalyst™
the previously cut hair coming 14. Continue working around vertical motion used when cutting previously cut hair below the 20. After completing the left front is cut very short to lengthen
through this second panel. , . Creme Developer
the head shape to the front over-comb. Cutting short hair is parietal ridge as a guide. side transition, work around
always a combination of using the the look of his narrow forehead.
12. Working from your guide, hairline while cuting the vertical the crown in ½ inch vertical · 9B/B Very Light Intense
note: You will find that previously cut hair as a technical 17. Using this design section as
different head shapes and hair repeat this technique in 1 inch panels over-comb. Then pie-shaped subsections. Ash Blonde
guide, while using your mirror a guide, create and cut ½ inch
types will influence your ability vertical panels as you move readdress the panel in the and eye to ensure the appearance + 40 Volume Color Catalyst™
to keep your panels truly vertical. subsections while working forward
around the head shape. nape area while using a freehand of even blends and transitions. Creme Developer
In both Freehand and Over-comb to the front hairline. Make sure
work, the teeth of your tools will clipper technique. ' tip: As you work, use ²⁄³ this is a moving guide and that
create the best tension if they are of the clipper blade width to
remove uncut hair while ¹⁄³ each subsection is pulled straight
positioned directly against the
growth pattern of the hair. The of the clipper blade moves over out from the head.
goal is to try to keep your panels the previously cut hair. note: Always work methodically,
as vertical as possible. If you tip: There are areas of the head beginning in the right temple and
note: You will always have the working around the head shape.
have to deviate to create proper where you will want to leave more previously cut hair to use as a
tension with your tools, bring the or less volume. Always be conscious Use your mirror as a visual guide
guide between the teeth of your to help you balance and refine
panels back to vertical as soon as of where you are building or comb. Also remember to use
the hair growth will allow. reducing weight as you work. the shape. Variations in hair
your mirror as a visual guide to pigment will require additional
maintain consistency as you work blending and refining.
50 men’s hair design | the freehand and over-comb technique | the freehand and over-comb technique | © aveda 2007 around the head shape. © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | the freehand and over-comb technique | the freehand and over-comb technique 5
I7 I8 I7 I8
52 men’s hair design | the freehand and over-comb technique | the freehand and over-comb technique variation 1 | © aveda 2007 Chap 5 Chap 5 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | the freehand and over-comb technique | the freehand and over-comb technique variation 2 53
I7 I8
Kelly Kelly I7 I8
Alt 1 Alt 1 Chap 5
1611-004_AVM_EduStu_Guide.indd 52-53
Peter Cut Chap 5 3/30/07 5:18:06 PM
2
variation 1
sinCe tHis guest Has a stronger, rounder area above tHe
parietal ridge on tHe rigHt side and a flatter area above tHe
parietal ridge on tHe left side, He requires a Hair Cut tHat Helps
3
variation 2
tHis guest Has an exCeptionally balanCed Head sHape tHougH
He Has a strong, wide jaw line. tHe best solution is to use tHe
balanCe tHe inConsistenCies in tHe Contour of His Head. tHe best faCeted layers teCHnique to Cut a sligHtly Contoured sHape
solution is to Cut vertiCally and Customize tHe Head sHape by and leave a moderate amount of volume tHrougH tHe parietal
leaving tHe Hair longer on tHe left side wHile reduCing weigHt area, tHen use an over-Comb teCHnique to taper tHe neCkline.
on tHe rigHt side. tHis Creates a more proportional Head sHape. a Horizontal transition area aCCentuates HeigHt on tHe top.
Color serviCe Color serviCe
Virgin Darker Application Virgin Darker Application
Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only “Soft Formula”
Color Treatment:
Full Spectrum™ Protective
· ØN Colorless Treatment
Permanent Creme Hair Color:
+ Color Treatment Activator
· 40 g 3Natural Medium Brown
· 4 g Dark Yellow/Orange
+ 10 Volume Color Catalyst™
Creme Developer
I7 I8 I7 I8
52 men’s hair design | the freehand and over-comb technique | the freehand and over-comb technique variation 1 | © aveda 2007 Chap 5 Chap 5 © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | the freehand and over-comb technique | the freehand and over-comb technique variation 2 53
I7 I8
Kelly Kelly I7 I8
Alt 1 Alt 1 Chap 5
1611-004_AVM_EduStu_Guide.indd 52-53
Peter Cut Chap 5 3/30/07 5:18:06 PM
There has been a change in men’s attitudes toward their clothes.
Men are more aware of fashion; they’re not afraid of it.
–Calvin Klein
Notes:
54 men’s hair design | the freehand and over-comb technique | the freehand and over-comb technique variation 2 | © aveda 2007 X © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 55
Notes:
54 men’s hair design | the freehand and over-comb technique | the freehand and over-comb technique variation 2 | © aveda 2007 X © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color 55
overview The end of the Service Wheel may well be the most important. It’s your final chance
to exceed your guest’s expectations and make a lasting, positive impression.
objectives In this chapter, you will learn to:
1. Execute the post–hair cut shampoo service
2. Select styling product and finish the hair cut in a male-appropriate manner
56 men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color | © aveda 2007 X 3. Finish the service cycle with a Goodbye that creates a lasting,
X aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | colorpositive
© impression
fundamentals | understanding color 57
overview The end of the Service Wheel may well be the most important. It’s your final chance
to exceed your guest’s expectations and make a lasting, positive impression.
objectives In this chapter, you will learn to:
1. Execute the post–hair cut shampoo service
2. Select styling product and finish the hair cut in a male-appropriate manner
56 men’s hair design | color fundamentals | understanding color | © aveda 2007 X 3. Finish the service cycle with a Goodbye that creates a lasting,
X aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | colorpositive
© impression
fundamentals | understanding color 57
POMADE
tip: If a guest is hesitant to
Pomade generally provides pre-book, assure him that he’ll
strong, pliable hold and control get a reminder call 2 hours
and definition. in advance and can change the
58 men’s hair design | completing the service wheel | finishing and goodbye | © aveda 2007 appointment if needed. © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | completing the service wheel | finishing and goodbye 59
POMADE
tip: If a guest is hesitant to
Pomade generally provides pre-book, assure him that he’ll
strong, pliable hold and control get a reminder call 2 hours
and definition. in advance and can change the
58 men’s hair design | completing the service wheel | finishing and goodbye | © aveda 2007 appointment if needed. © aveda 2007 | men’s hair design | completing the service wheel | finishing and goodbye 59
b C f p s
BASELINE: A standard of proportion CANON: A measurement FACETED LAYERS: An angular PANEL: Subsections of hair SERVICE BLUEPRINT: A document
from which you can compare a system developed to help cutting technique for layering created to help cut hair in a for recording the design objectives
guest’s head shape to note variations assess the proportions of the medium length hair. neat and precise pattern. and technical strategy for a hair cut.
and create design concepts. male head shape.
FREEHAND: A technique for cutting PARIETAL RIDGE: The area of the SERVICE WHEEL: Aveda’s unique
BIASED SHAPE: If a shape is cut CONTOURING: Tapering the hair hair without using a comb. skull where the bones of the head graphic for displaying the service
short in the back and long in the from a small amount of scalp begin to curve toward the top. cycle from the moment a guest
front it will generally move forward. showing to total scalp coverage. arrives until he walks out the
POINT OF DISTRIBUTION:
If it is cut hair short in the front o door. It includes the Greeting,
The place in the back of the
and left long in the back it will OCCIPITAL BONE: A curved, the Service and the Goodbye.
head where the growth pattern
most likely move backward. This d compound bone forming the back begins-sometimes referred to STATIC SHAPE: Hair cuts are
is often called the “directional DESIGN PANEL: The first 3 or 4 and part of the base of the skull. as the “crown.” referred to as “static” or without
bias of a shape.” vertical subsections in the temple
OVER-COMB: A technique for motion when the emphasis is
area. This panel serves as a guide on the build-up or reduction
cutting hair while first pulling
for the rest of the hair cut. of weight rather than the overall
a comb through it to help with
DESIGN SECTION: The first ½ inch precision, control and positioning. movement of the hair cut.
vertical subsection cut in the
temple area.
t
DISTRIBUTION OF WEIGHT:
TEMPLE AREA: The area of hair
Cutting hair with varying amounts
just above the eye along the
of weight left on different areas
front hairline.
of the head in order to create the
desired shapes. TRANSITION AREA: The area of hair
that transitions from the bottom to
the top of the head shape.