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Project 0078 Sonic Marshmallow Cannon PDF
Project 0078 Sonic Marshmallow Cannon PDF
The Sonic Marshmallow Cannon is a Super Sonic Expert Level Project, appealing to kids
of all ages but requiring more skill and time to build than other SonicDad projects. This
cannon is designed for shooting a mini-marshmallow projectile, and is powered by
common 91% rubbing alcohol. When a lightly saturated fuel sponge is inserted into the
cannon’s combustion chamber, alcohol vapor mixes with oxygen to create a flammable
mixture. When the igniter button on the cannon is pressed, the combustible gas ignites,
producing a loud sonic boom and launching a mini marshmallow!
Sports ball
pump
Thumb
tack
Electric
lighter
Sponge
Metal
washer
Disposable
plastic pen
Project Construction
LEVEL 6 4.0 HRS $25.00
SHOPPING LIST
Quantity Item needed Where to find it See Figure
1 1/2” x 1/2” PVC pipe coupler (slip x slip) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 7
3 1” x 1/2” PVC pipe reducer bushing (slip x slip) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 7
1 1” x 3/4” PVC pipe reducer bushing (slip x 3/4” female pipe thread) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 7
1 1” PVC pipe plug (1” male pipe thread) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 7
1 3/4” PVC pipe plug (3/4” male pipe thread) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 7
1 3/4” PVC pipe cap (slip) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 7
1 1” PVC pipe coupling (slip x slip) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 7
1 1” PVC pipe tee (slip x slip x slip) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 7
1 1” PVC pipe tee (slip x slip x 1” female pipe thread) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 7
5 1/2” PVC pipe 450 elbow (slip x slip) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 8
4 1/2” PVC pipe tee (slip x slip x slip) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 8
2 1/2” PVC pipe elbow (slip x slip) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 8
3 1/2” PVC pipe cap (slip) Home improvement store, hardware store Page 8
1/2” x 1/2” PVC pipe coupler 1” x 1/2” PVC pipe reducer bushing 1” x 3/4” PVC pipe reducer bushing
(slip x slip) (slip x slip) (slip x 3/4” female pipe thread)
Qty. 1 Qty. 3 Qty. 1
1” PVC pipe plug 3/4” PVC pipe plug 3/4” PVC pipe cap
(1” male pipe thread) (3/4” male pipe thread) (slip)
Qty. 1 Qty. 1 Qty. 1
1/2” PVC pipe 450 elbow 1/2” PVC pipe tee 1/2” PVC pipe elbow
(slip x slip) (slip x slip x slip) (slip x slip)
Qty. 5 Qty. 4 Qty. 2
1/2” PVC pipe cap 1” x 2” long PVC pipe nipple 1/2” x 1 1/2” long PVC pipe nipple
(slip) (make from 1” sch. 40 PVC pipe) (make from 1/2” sch. 40 PVC pipe)
Qty. 3 Qty. 2 Qty. 13
1/2” sch. 40 PVC pipe x 5” long 1/2” sch. 40 PVC pipe x 18” long
Qty. 2 Qty. 1
fig. 4
Press together on
both sides – DO
NOT GLUE!
Step 6
Use a screwdriver to install a #6 x 3/4” long
sheet metal screw. Be sure the screw head is
below the surface of the bushing as shown. (fig. 6)
fig. 6
Glue bushing
Step 7 into combustion
Glue the bushing into the combustion chamber as chamber
shown. The screw will prevent the marshmallow
projectile from falling back into the combustion
chamber during use. (fig. 7)
fig. 7
Step 8
Attach a piece of packing tape or masking tape to
the bottom of the remaining 1/2” PVC pipe nipple.
Fill the nipple half way full of high temp hot glue
as shown. Let the glue cool and remove the tape.
(fig. 8)
© 2016 SonicDad Enterprises All rights reserved
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Orient with hot Cannon
glue plug on this
Step 9 end
Use PVC pipe cement to glue in the modified nipple. Glue in modified
Install the nipple with the hot glue plug on the end nipple
extending outside the reducer bushing as shown.
(fig. 9)
Step 10
Place the ball pump on the combustion chamber
in the position shown. Use a marker to mark the
center line of the pump outlet as shown. This
mark will locate the inlet hole for the pump.
Remove the pump and mark the vertical center
of the tee on the combustion chamber. (fig. 10)
fig. 11
Step 11
Drill a 1/4” hole on the pump center location
mark as shown. Drill through the wall of the tee,
bushing, and nipple. Be sure the hole extends
into the center of the nipple, allowing air to
enter the combustion chamber from the pump.
(fig. 11)
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Cannon
Step 12 Apply glue around
Apply a large bead of glue all the way around the the pump outlet
pump outlet as shown. (fig. 12)
fig. 12
Step 13
Working quickly while the glue is still hot, attach
the pump, centered on the marking and hole as
This part is just a little
shown. Hold the pump in position until the glue
tricky. You need to apply has cooled. Apply a bead of glue along each side
enough glue to seal the of the joint between the pump and chamber as
pump outlet, but not too shown. Be sure to keep glue off of the cap at
much, or the excess glue
may plug the inlet hole on
the rear of the pump so that it can be removed
the combustion chamber! (fig. 13)
This is just right . . . Cool!
Step 14
fig. 14
Remove the cap on the rear of the pump. Carefully
remove the piston assembly and set it aside for
reassembly after painting. (fig. 14)
© 2016 SonicDad Enterprises All rights reserved
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Cannon
Step 15
Glue 3/4” cap and plug
Use a large bead of glue to attach a 3/4” PVC cap fig. 15 together
and plug together in the orientation shown. (fig. 15)
Install plugs
fig. 16
fig. 17
Step 18
Print the hole template from page 28, full scale
on regular printer paper. Cut the template out,
fig. 18 cutting on the outside lines. (fig. 18)
© 2016 SonicDad Enterprises All rights reserved
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Cannon
Step 19 Use clear tape to
secure template
Use a few pieces of clear tape to secure the
centered in place
template around the drain pipe. Position the
template centered on the tube as shown.
(fig. 19)
fig. 19
Step 20
Use a small Phillips screwdriver to create a
dimple at the center of each hole marking on the
template. The dimple will help locate the drill bit
when drilling the holes in the heat sink. (fig. 20)
Step 21
Secure the part in a vise and use a drill and 1/2”
(13 mm) drill bit to carefully drill the holes as
shown. For best results, use a very low speed
while drilling the holes to prevent damaging the
Drill holes in heat fig. 21
sink piece
plastic as the bit drills through. (fig. 21)
Step 22
Remove the hole template. Use an X-acto knife
and sand paper to remove the burrs from each
of the drilled holes as shown. (fig. 22)
© 2016 SonicDad Enterprises All rights reserved
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Cannon
Step 23 1/2”
Use a hand or power saw to carefully cut the Use a saw to
bushing down to 1/2” (13mm) long as shown. Use reduce bushing
sand paper to remove burrs. (fig. 23) length
Temporarily
press bushing
fig. 24
into heat sink
Step 25
Slide the heat sink onto the cannon barrel. Twist
the barrel snugly into the combustion chamber.
Position the heat sink so there is about an 1/8”
(3 mm) gap between the heat sink and the
Position heat sink
combustion chamber as shown. Carefully mark
with 1/8” gap
the heat sink location on the barrel as shown.
(fig. 25)
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Cannon
Step 26
Remove the bushing from the heat sink and use Glue bushing
PVC cement to attach it to the barrel on the to barrel on
Mask these
marked line as shown. Mask the areas shown on marked line
areas for
the heat sink and barrel and clean with rubbing painting
alcohol to prepare for painting. (fig. 26)
Mask bottom
1/2” of each leg
fig. 26
Step 27
Apply two coats of spray paint for plastics on
the base, the color of your choice. (fig. 27)
fig. 27
Step 28
Apply two coats of paint on the combustion
chamber. Spray-on truck bed liner can also be
used on the combustion chamber, barrel, heat
sink, and base feet for a durable, textured
finish. (fig. 28)
© 2016 SonicDad Enterprises All rights reserved
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Cannon
Step 29 Apply two coats of
Use a dowel as a handle to apply two coats of paint on the heat sink
paint on the heat sink. (fig. 29)
fig. 29
fig. 30
Step 30
Use a dowel as a handle to apply two coats of
paint on the cannon barrel. (fig. 30)
Step 31
Use a piece of 1/2” PVC pipe as a handle to apply
two coats of paint on three 1/2” PVC caps that Paint three 1/2” caps
fig. 31
will be used as feet on the base. (fig. 31)
Remove masking
tape and apply
glue
Step 32
Remove the masking tape from the heat sink.
fig. 32 Use a cotton swab or small paint brush to apply
PVC cement around the inside front as shown.
(fig. 32)
© 2016 SonicDad Enterprises All rights reserved
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Cannon
Step 33
Inset barrel into
Working quickly while the cement is still wet, heat sink
carefully insert the barrel into the heat sink
piece as shown. (fig. 33)
Position heat
sink edge flush fig. 34
with bushing
fig. 33
Step 34
Position the heat sink flush with the bushing on
the barrel. Before the glue sets, check the
alignment at the back of the barrel to be sure
it’s centered in the open end of the heat sink.
(fig. 34)
Step 35
Press barrel,
Remove the masking on the combustion chamber
combustion chamber,
and re-assemble the air pump. Glue the three
and base together
caps to the base as shown. Assemble the cannon
WITHOUT glue
by pressing the barrel into the combustion
chamber, then pressing the assembly into the
base. Be sure these three parts are pressed
together only – DO NOT GLUE! (fig. 35)
fig. 35
Remove screws
to disassemble
lighter
Step 36
Disassemble the electric lighter. Most lighters
have a few screws holding the housing together.
fig. 36 (fig. 36)
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Cannon
Step 37
Remove the piezoelectric igniter unit with wires Apply glue on
as shown. Bend the wires oriented down and wires to secure
apply glue around the wires to secure them to to igniter – then
the igniter, creating a wire strain relief. Then twist wires
twist the wires as shown. (fig. 37)
fig. 37
Step 38
Drill a 5/32” (4mm) hole in the center of the 1”
plug. Use an X-acto knife to scrape off the paint
and rough up the surface on the plug wall above
fig. 38 the hole as shown. Removing the paint will help
the glue to adhere to the plastic. (fig. 38)
Use X-acto to
create hole then
glue thumbtack
in place
fig. 39
Step 40
Use an X-acto knife to cut a small hole in the
center of the end of the igniter button by
twisting the knife point. Use a bead of hot glue
fig. 40 to secure a metal thumbtack in the end of the
button as shown. (fig. 40)
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Cannon
Step 41
Trim the wire length to 1 1/4” (32mm) long and The only real trick to
strip the ends about an 1/8” (3mm) as shown. setting up your igniter
wires is the overall
Apply glue around the wires at the base and length and the gap
apply glue to position the wires about 1/4” (6mm) between the wire tips.
apart as shown. Test the igniter in a dark room; The length will put the
you should see a spark jumping between the bare spark in the best
position inside the
tips of the igniter wires. (fig. 41) combustion chamber.
The 1/4” gap will give you
the strongest spark to
ignite the combustion
1/4” Apply glue at base and gasses. Fire in the hole!!
secure wires 1/4” apart
1 1/4”
fig. 41
Mark and cut
5/8” wide strip fig. 42
of sponge
Step 42
Measure, mark, and cut a 5/8” (16mm) wide strip
of a common cleaning sponge using a pair of sharp
scissors as shown. (fig. 42)
Step 43
Cut the sponge strip 4” (100mm) long. Cut a
piece of plastic disposable pen tube 1” (25mm)
Cut 1” long piece of long. You will also need a 3/8” flat metal washer.
fig. 43 plastic pen tube (fig. 43)
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Cannon
Cut sponge
Step 44 every 1” and
glue back
To help prevent the fuel from migrating to the low
together
end of the sponge during use, cut the sponge
every inch (25mm) and glue back together with
high temp hot glue. Cut and glue one piece at a
time being sure to cover the entire cut joint
surface with glue. (fig. 44)
Attach washer
and pen tube
fig. 44
Step 45
fig. 45 Use a large bead of glue to attach the 3/8”
(10mm) flat washer to one end of the fuel
sponge. Add glue in the center of the washer
and attach the pen tube. Hold the tube in place
as the glue cools to keep aligned with the sponge
as shown. (fig. 45)
Step 46
Use a large bead of glue to attach the fuel
sponge assembly to the cap, centered as shown.
(fig. 46)
Attach fuel
sponge to cap
fig. 46
© 2016 SonicDad Enterprises All rights reserved
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Cannon