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The complete Youtube video and project tutorial photos to go along with these plans can be
found at
http://www.diypete.com/ConcreteDiningTable -
I invite you to make changes to
the plans as you find necessary to best fit your needs. Good luck with the project and have
fun building it! Please post project photos on the Facebook page at
www.facebook.com/DIYPROJECTSWITHPETE or elsewhere tagged with # DIYPETE- Cheers
– DIY PETE
Tools Needed
Miter Saw
– I’d recommend a 12 inch sliding, miter saw
Table SawOR Circular Saw
Drill
And/OR Impact Driver
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Orbital Sander
– Ryobi makes a nice one.
Respirator mask
Concrete Trowel
Tape Measure, Straight Edge, Pencil
Eye, Ear, and Hand protection
Supplies Needed
Quikrete Countertop Mix or Quikrete 5000 (less expensive option)
Cheng Concrete Sealer
100% Silicone
4-L
Brackets/Joists
Gorilla Wood Glue
Minwax Polyurethane
Minwax Espresso Stain
Melamine sheet
Lumber for the base - see wood / cut list below Sandpaper
Wood
*Note - The actual dimensions of dimensional lumber such as a 4x4 equals 3 1⁄2”x3 1⁄2” -
this is relevant to the wood listed below.
Cut List
Melamine Form
:
-
Form Base - QTY: 1-
41”x72”x 3⁄4” melamine piece
-
Form Sides - QTY: 2 - 41”x2 1⁄4”x 3⁄4”
-Form Sides
- QTY: 2 - 73 1⁄2”x2 1⁄4”x 3⁄4”
Wood Base :
-
Legs
- QTY: 4 - 4x4x28 1⁄2” boards
-
Side Supports - QTY: 4 - 4x4x28” boards
-
Top Supports - QTY: 3 - 4x4x45” boards
-
Lower Support - QTY: 1 - 4x4x45” board
-
Angled Supports - QTY: 2 - 4x4x31” ends cut at 45 degree angle
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Approximate Total Cost: $195
The Concrete Dining Table can be made for under $195 dollars in materials cost. This is the
cost for the concrete, wood, wood finish, concrete finish, and other basic supplies. *Note:
This doesn’t include smaller things you may already have around the shop, including:
screws, glue, sandpaper, etc.
We’ll assemble the sides with 1 1⁄2 wood screws. Be sure to pre drill all holes before adding
the screws and make sure everything is square, level, and flush when you’re screwing it
together. Don’t add wood glue to the sides of the melamine form, because we’ll need to
easily deconstruct it later.
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Finish the Form, Mix Concrete, Cut
Reinforcement
Once your melamine form is all screwed together, we’ll want to seal the edges of the inside
of the form. The best, easiest way to do so is by adding a clean bead of 100% silicone to the
edges. Follow through with a beveled edge tool and make sure there is not an excess of
silicone on the mold. Then combine your water and concrete mixes in a large tub and stir it
up! Refer to the video for more helpful tips on mixing concrete.
We’ll then need to cut a piece of steel reinforcement that’ll add into the form and help
strengthen the concrete top even more. The easiest way to cut these is simply with
wire/bolt cutters. Make the reinforcement 1”-2” less than the size of the full form and
concrete top.
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Trowel, Level, and Let Cure
Once you’ve filled the form with your concrete mixture, we’ll want to level and smooth it all
out. Using a scrap 2x4 piece of wood will work fine for the leveling and screeding of the
concrete. Scrape the board from one side of the form to the other in a back-and-forth
motion, scraping excess concrete out of the form and working it into low spots. Then we
can vibrate the concrete either with a mallet, reciprocating saw (without the blade in), or
orbital sander. Spend some time vibrating the concrete. Then trowel it and cover the whole
concrete top with a plastic cover to help it cure evenly. Let the concrete cure and dry for the
manufacturers recommended time. (I recommend at least 48 hours)
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Attach the Support Stretchers
Once you've built the two leg structures that look like 4x4 boxes, we’ll need to attach our
top support stretchers that will support your concrete dining table. I’d recommend the four
L brackets in this step for added support. Find the midpoint of your base (look to plan
photos below this text) and we’ll add one 4x4 stretcher directly in the middle. Glue,
predrill, and screw this into place - no brackets for this center support, we’ll add them on
the other supports though. The other two top, support stretchers are positioned 5” in from
either side of the edge of the base. Position them, glue, predrill, and screw these supports
into place and then add the L brackets on the inside of the joint for added strength.
For extra strength and support, we’ll then add a lower support stretcher to ensure the base
is even stronger. Install this that same way as the top support stretchers. Then grab your
angled supports and screw them into place. Before cutting the 45 degree angles on these
boards, they measure 31” long. Glue and screw these into place.
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Finish the Base
See!? The base for this concrete dining table was specifically designed to aesthetically look
clean, modern. It is a minimalistic, easy, and great DIY build for woodworkers of all levels.
Thanks for taking the time to follow my design! Now we’ll sand it all down and prep it for
stain and finishing. Starting with a 220 grit sandpaper and your orbital sander, sand the
entire base, working to a higher grit if desired. Before staining, I brushed on Minwax wood
conditioner to help the stain go on more even. The stain we’re using is Minwax’s Espresso
stain, apply it generously and evenly now throughout the entire base structure. Let the
stain dry and set for the manufacturers recommended time, then you can add a clear coat -
I used Minwax’s Polyurethane and think it does an excellent job!
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Enjoy!
Thanks so much for checking out the Concrete Dining Table Plans and I’d love to hear how
your project goes! Please post photos on Facebook at
www.facebook.com/diyprojectswithpete and subscribe to my Youtube channel at
www.youtube.com/diyprojectswithpete .
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