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How to Pour Concrete

Co-authored by Gerber Ortiz-Vega


Last Updated: March 11, 2024 Approved

Knowing how to pour concrete can help you save a few dollars on small projects around the house. You can
pour concrete using items you have in the shed or garage; it does not have to take any special tools to do minor
projects. Pouring concrete takes a little muscle as the mixture is quite heavy. Otherwise, using these few steps,
you can easily accomplish your concrete projects.

Part
1 Preparation

1 Clear the area of any objects or material that would interfere in the pouring process. This
includes grass, rocks, trees, shrubs, and even old concrete. Clear away everything until raw earth
is exposed.

2 Prepare your subbase. Your subbase is another word for any material on which the concrete
rests. Usually, granular fill or road base is used as a subbase, although in some rare cases, soil
itself can be used if it is extremely compacted and stable.[1]
• The soil underneath your subbase is called your subgrade, and your concrete is only going to be
as strong as your subgrade.[2] Think about it: If your subgrade shifts, craters, or otherwise moves,
the integrity of your concrete is going to be compromised. Make sure your subgrade is properly
compacted and stabilized before adding the subbase.[3]
• Many professionals choose open-grade stone or closed-grade fine-grade stone for their subbase.
Open-grade stone lack the smaller stones, giving water a way to pass through. Plus, it's less
expensive. On the downside, it doesn't really compact as well as finer-grade stone. Finer-grade
stone is compactable but tends to be more expensive.[4]
• Lay a 4–8 inch (10.2–20.3 cm) thick subbase with your chosen material, and then compact it with a
hand tamper or a plate compactor. Plate compactors can be overkill for small, DIY projects, but
offer more power in the compacting process.

3 Prepare a form. A form is usually a wooden perimeter, secured by special nails or screws, and
built around the pouring site. A well-built form will help you achieve a better finish on your
concrete. Keep a couple things in mind when building your form:
• For square or rectangular forms, make sure that your corners form 90 degree angles. Take a tape
measure and measure both diagonals of the square or rectangular; they should correspond to one
another exactly. If they don't, it's back to the drawing board with your form.
• Also make sure that the forms have a slight slope to them. If they are completely level, you can
expect water build up in the middle of your beautiful concrete. To eliminate this possibility, create a
slight slope of 1" for every 10 feet.[5]

4 Add wire mesh or rebar to the inside of your form for support. Reinforce your concrete with
wire mesh or rebar, especially on heavy load-bearing structures, such as driveways. This gives
you concrete greater structural integrity.[6]
• Wire mesh will help guard small cracks growing and spreading, as well as offer stability across two
axes (wire mesh is welded, where rebar is often tied together).
• Rebar may offer better structural integrity, and be better for higher load-bearing surfaces. On the
flip side, it doesn't do much to minimize the appearance of cracks that do appear.
2
Pouring

1 Mix your concrete. Concrete is mixed by adding together Portland cement, sand, and coarse
aggregate (gravel) together in a ratio of 1:2:4. Water is added to the dry mixture to bind all the
components together.
• In a concrete mixer, add the determined amount of water and then the concrete mix. You can also
mix this in a wheelbarrow with a shovel. Use as little water as possible. Water makes the concrete
more maneuverable but it also weakens the constitution of the final product.[7] A drier mix makes
Part
the concrete more crack resistant. Turn on the machine. The mix will become smooth and
consistent. Shut off the machine.
• Always wear a ventilated mask, safety glasses, gloves, and long sleeves and pants when mixing
concrete.[8]

2 Pour the concrete into the mold. You can sometimes get a truck to pour concrete straight into
your form; otherwise, load it into wheelbarrows and tilt them into the form until the high point is
reached. While doing this, enlist some helpers to spread out the concrete with shovels, rakes and
"come alongs," which is a special concrete rake.

3 Screed the top of the concrete. Starting at the uphill point, use a screeding tool to flatten out the
wet concrete. Screeding involves jiggling a wide plank of wood back and forth, if possible
immediately over the forms, to create a flat surface.
• Work your way from top to bottom, gently screeding until you have a flat surface. Your concrete
surface won't be finished yet, but it will begin to look more complete and professional looking at
this point.

4 Float the newly-screeded surface to further compact the concrete. At this point, you should
move fairly quickly as the concrete will set fast. Your floating process will contain two steps:
• Use a large floating device, also known as a bull float, to press down aggregate and help the
cream (gravel-free concrete) rise to the surface. Do this by moving the bull float away from you,
keeping the tailing edge slightly elevated, and then moving the bull float back towards you, keeping
the leading edge slightly elevated.
• Use a magnesium hand float to go over the surface. After some of the water bleeds to the surface,
use long sweeping motions with your hand float.

5 Make control joints every 5 o 6 feet (1.8 m) with a groover. Line up a plank as a straight edge
to make periodic joints in the concrete. These joints will help the concrete withstand cracking due
to temperature changes. Cut the joints about a quarter of the thickness of the concrete.

6 Create traction. Use a broom to sweep across the surface, creating designs. This will provide
traction on the concrete so it is not as slippery when wet. A soft brush can also be used for a
different texture that is less rough. For a smoother surface, but one that still has a pattern to it, you can
use the trowel and slide it over the surface in a circular motion. Make sure the grooves are not so deep
that water stands on the surface. Standing water will compromise the integrity of the concrete.
• If moving the broom over the concrete causes clumps of concrete to aggregate on your broom, it's
too early to broom. Move over the concrete again with the magnesium floater to smooth out the
pattern left by the broom, then try again later.

7 Cure and seal the concrete. Concrete should be left to cure for 28 days, with the initial day being
the most critical. As soon as the concrete has been poured, professionals usually recommend
sealing the concrete. The sealant will help the concrete cure, as well as prevent cracks and
discoloration.
• Sealing concrete will prevent it from absorbing liquids and staining.[9]

8 Maintain your concrete. Although concrete is often thought of an a no-hassle surface, it benefits
from regular maintenance. Regular soap and water maintenance will help keep the concrete looking its
best, while occasional seals (~ every five years) can help keep the concrete from getting damaged
through use.

What Should You Do Before You Pour a Concrete Driveway?

Expert Q&A

Question

How much water should I use when mixing the concrete?

Gerber Ortiz-Vega
Masonry Specialist & Founder, GO Masonry LLC
Expert Answer

It really depends on the application, but generally, you'll want to use three parts concrete and one part
water. If you're pouring a concrete foundation for a wall or post, you can use more water since the
finish won't matter.

Question

How do you prepare the ground for concrete?

Gerber Ortiz-Vega
Masonry Specialist & Founder, GO Masonry LLC
Expert Answer

Make sure you put mesh or rebar in the form that you built using wood. This will stabilize your
concrete and give it better structural integrity.
Question

Do I need to wet the concrete after I lay it down?

Community Answer

Yes. Wetting the concrete after it has initially set is a process called wet curing. During the curing
process, concrete needs to be protected from moisture loss, and this process helps keep it moist.

Tips

• You can purchase special colorants to dye your concrete any variety of colors. Choose colors to match
or accent your home or landscape. Add the colorant when you mix the concrete with water.

Things You'll Need

Mold

Stone

Steel wire mesh or rebar

Concrete

Water

Concrete mixer or wheelbarrow and shovel

Float

Trowel

Planks

Broom

Helpers

References

1. https://www.concretenetwork.com/install-concrete.html
2. https://www.concreteconstruction.net/concrete-construction/preparing-subbase.aspx
3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yD4xNFDZvcA
4. https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/site-prep/preparing-subbase_o
5. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yD4xNFDZvcA
6. Gerber Ortiz-Vega. Masonry Specialist & Founder, GO Masonry LLC. Expert Interview. 10 March 2020.
7. https://www.familyhandyman.com/masonry/pouring-concrete/how-to-properly-mix-concrete/
8. Gerber Ortiz-Vega. Masonry Specialist & Founder, GO Masonry LLC. Expert Interview. 10 March 2020.
9. Gerber Ortiz-Vega. Masonry Specialist & Founder, GO Masonry LLC. Expert Interview. 10 March 2020.

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