RUBBER MATTING INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

Required Tools
1. Crete Angle mixer
2. Tarpaulin for use under the mixer and binder buckets
3. Wheelbarrow
4. Trowels – thick sided wooden trowels or polyurethane foam trowels for tamping and
stainless steel pointed trowels for finishing
5. Screed bar
6. Height guides – use the required height to ensure the correct surface thickness
7. Buckets with litre indicators – for measuring the binder if needed
8. Disposable gloves + Stanley knife blades or equivalent
9. Water mixed with fairy liquid for trowel lubricant
10. Metal Roller

Installation Process
We always suggest that customers familiarise themselves with the required materials, equipment
and the wet pour installation guide before installing the product.

1. Ensure the area where the RubbaPour is being laid is clean and dry, with all laitance
removed. Ensure for a level surface and a suitable edging material to work up to.
2. Prime the surface over a reachable arm’s length using a roller or brush ensuring even
wetting.
3. Mix the rubber granules and binder in bucket using the binder ratio of 18% to the
top layer rubber granules and 10-12% for base SBR granules. (You can make a mark in the bucket
to ensure the right amount has been added each time to the same height mark.)
4. Add the mix to your Crete angle mixer. Mix very thoroughly, the rubber and binder
resin may appear to ball. It should be mixed until no ball is evident.
5. Empty your mix into wheelbarrow and pour on the primed area. Spread evenly using
your height guides. Use you tamping trowel to compact all the loose particles of
rubber mixture into a tight fit.
6. For Top surface, use pointed steel trowel lightly lubricated. If any porous spots are
found at this time they can be filled by adding more mixture as necessary. Keep your
trowel lubricated to avoid re-separation of rubber particles.
7. Various edge options are available. Ramp down edge is often used when finishing
into grass, bark or sand perimeters. Fixed edges used up to hard surrounds such as
concrete or wooden border.
8. Leave to cure overnight
HOW TO REPLACE RUBBER MATTING DAMAGE

WETPOUR REPAIR PACK – EPDM TOPPING / BASE RUBBER This pack contains
enough materials to carry out a repair one metre square at a 20mm thickness (if a repair kit has
been purchased this will include 1m2 of 20mm base rubber as well)

To undertake this repair you will need:

 Steel float
 Stanley knife (to trim hole)
 Rubber gloves (supplied)
 Bucket containing soapy water
 Wheelbarrow (for mixing)
 Laying Instructions:

1. Trim back edges of hole to be repaired to form a neat square edge (the repair will often look
better if it is trimmed to a neat geometric shape).

2. Remove any damaged or contaminated material from the area to be repaired. The underlying
surface will need to be dry before any rubber can be laid.

3. Thoroughly mix the rubber granules and binder in the ratio of:
 Base Rubber 12.5Kg of Rubber to 1Kg of Resin
 Top Rubber 12.5Kg of Rubber to 2.5Kg of Resin
 For small quantities this can be hand mixed either in the tub supplied or in a wheelbarrow lined
with polythene. For larger quantities we recommend the use of a ‘pan’ type mixer such as a
Cretangle or Imer.

4. Place the mixed material into the prepared hole and level off slightly proud of the surrounding
area using either the float or a flat piece of wood.

5. Lightly lubricate the steel float with the soapy water and level and compact the mixed material
into the repair using the float.

6. Clear away any excess material.

7. The curing time for the mixed wet pour is determined by atmospheric conditions but will
generally be in the region of 2-6 hours during which the repair will need to be guarded to
prevent deliberate or accidental damage.

NOTE: We do not recommend that repairs are carried out during wet or freezing conditions.
The above instructions are for guidance only and do not constitute a comprehensive guide to
the laying of wet pour surfaces. The vendor can take no responsibility for an incorrectly laid
surface arising for whatever reason.
STAMPCRETE INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Step 1 Choose a color and texture of concrete that complements the
natural surroundings and adjacent structures. Special consideration should be given
to the orientation of grout lines, particularly in repetitive patterns such as running bond,
brick, or cobblestone. Generally, the area should be stamped so that long lines of the
pattern run perpendicular to the length of the project. This will help reduce straight-line
errors and provide a more pleasant and aesthetic overall appearance. Typically texture
runs in straight lines, even when walks or drives are curved. Always perform a trial run,
placing mats in the area prior to the pour. The crew should know ahead of time where
the first mat will be placed, as well as aware of areas where a standard mat won't fit,
and in what direction stamping will proceed. Always plan accordingly to ensure best
results. It is very important to bear in mind the location of expansion and control
joints(the thin lines you see in just about everything concrete). These will be required
and may disrupt the visual pattern you had planned for. Your installer can direct you
more with the options.[1]

Step 2 Place the concrete. Follow normal procedures with a sub-grade and
concrete base that meets the planned specifications and local requirements for mix,
depth and reinforcement.[2] A normal, or slow-set, water-reducing admixture, can be
used, but admixtures must not contain Calcium Chloride. Yet, non-chloride
accelerators and air-retaining admixtures can still be used. Refer to the admixture
manufacturer for recommendations on the type and amount of admixture to use.
(Please note: Some admixtures may affect color.) The concrete should be no less than
four inches in thickness.
 Step 3 Color the concrete. There are two basic techniques:
 Integral Color:[3] Liquid Color into the ready mix truck. This procedure combines the
color with the mix prior to the pour and the slab is colored throughout, or:
 Broadcast Method: Apply color hardener powder directly to the freshly poured concrete
surface. Color hardener will penetrate the top of the concrete slab 1/8" and color
thoroughly.

Step 4 Remember after initial floating and all excess bleed water has been
absorbed, you should broadcast color hardener using a wide sweeping arm
movement with the intention of covering as much concrete as possible with each
throw. Allow the hardener to be absorbed for several minutes until it has moistened
sufficiently to work the color in with a wood or magnesium float. One pass with the float
should be sufficient; do not overwork the concrete. If necessary, repeat this process in
areas where natural concrete is showing through. When you are satisfied with the color,
finish with a fresno or steel trowel.

Step 5 Apply the color release agent. Texture mats will not work without the
use of a release agent. This specially formulated powder prevents mats from sticking to
freshly placed concrete. Generally 3.5 lbs. of material is required per 100 square feet.
As the slab approaches its optimum set for texturing, the release agent should be
applied. It should be brushed onto the mats and broadcast across the surface of the
concrete. There should be a uniform layer of release between the concrete and the
texture mats; thick enough to prevent damp concrete from bleeding through to the mat,
yet thin enough so as not to diminish the texture detail.[4]

Step 6 Choose a color of release agent to complement the color of the

concrete. A release agent with a darker tone than the coloring agent will provide depth
and shadowing in the finished concrete. Most of the release agent will be removed
 when the finished project is pressure washed. The primary concrete color will dominate
and approximately 20% of the release agent will adhere to the surface of the concrete.

Step 7 Texture the concrete. [5]

At the optimum time for texturing, great force is
not necessary to press the mat into the concrete. Timing is critical so work should
proceed without delay once texturing begins. Likewise, inspect the area periodically so
that necessary touch-up work can begin as soon as possible.

Step 8 Find a team to help you lay the mats. Below is an outline of a four-
man crew as suggested for the largest recommended project pour, 400 square feet.
More experienced crews may be able to color and stamp as much as 700 square feet
per pour, but it is recommended to begin with smaller areas. This process can be
adapted to fit specific project needs.
 Worker 1: Fluffs the release agent throughout the application process. Broadcasts
release agent. Identifies areas that require touch up work. Acts as a general helper.
 Worker 2: Places the texture mats. The first mat should be carefully aligned, placed and
tamped in at the starting point of the project. Repeat the process by placing the second
mat next to the first. Place mats tightly together to avoid messy grout line patterns.
Continue with mats on hand, leapfrogging the mats as they are removed and replaced
in the concrete. A minimum of three mats should be used for smaller pours. Larger
projects require additional mats.
 Worker 3: Tamps the mats as they are placed. Mats should be tamped straight down
into the concrete using no more force than necessary to press the mat flush to the
concrete. Do not over tamp!
 Worker 4: Carefully removes the tamped mats by lifting gradually from one side first to
break the suction. Passes mats to Worker 1 for preparation of next placement.
 Step 9 Use a high-powered pressure washer (3000 PSI is
recommended, but be careful, concrete can be damaged) approximately 24
hours after the concrete has achieved initial set. This is to remove excess
release agent from the surface of the concrete. Vary the distance of the wand to
the surface of the concrete so that the release is unevenly removed. Try to spray
so that some of the release remains in the grout lines and deeper indentations.
This will result in a more natural, aged and shadowed effect.

Step 10 Seal the concrete with an appropriate decorative concrete sealer

according to manufacturer directions. When the slab is thoroughly dry, clear
enhancer should be applied using a roller. One gallon covers approximately 200 square
feet. A light coat should be applied in one direction and a second coat should be applied
in a perpendicular direction in order to avoid unwanted lines. Be careful to avoid a
buildup of sealer in the corners.[6]
HOW TO REPLACE/REPAIR STAMCRETE DAMAGE
Step 1 – Prepare the Patio
Scrape off the loose concrete in the cracks with a wire brush. Be sure to clear as much
of the loose material as possible. This will enable the concrete patching mixture to
bond more effectively when applied in the crack. Clean the patio surface with soapy
water to get rid of loose concrete, dirt and debris. Rinse well and dry with an old
towel.

Step 2 – Mix Color Patch Mixture

Use equal portions of water and concrete bonding polymer to create a paste. Wet the
color patch with this mixture. Make sure the color patch is an exact match of what you
have on your patio. This will ensure a uniform appearance after repair and helps to
conceal signs of repair. The color patch mixture should not be lumpy. Sift it through a
mesh screen into a small basin.
Step 3 – Application
For small cracks, you can patch the crack with your fingers. Wear rubber gloves and
carefully fill the crack with the mixture. Be sure to fill the crack completely. If the
cracks are larger, use a putty knife to fill the crack with the patching mixture. Use a
damp sponge to smooth the edges of the crack on the surface so that it appears
uniform. Allow 24 hours for the mixture to cure.
Step 4 – Extra Large Cracks
Very large cracks will require different treatment. Prepare the crack for repair as in
Step 1. Be sure to allow adequate time for the crack to dry. It may take up to 48 hours.
A dry surface enables the concrete patching mixture to bond more effectively. Prepare
enough concrete mixture in a small basin and mix until you get a uniform consistency.
Pour the mixture into the crack and smooth with a trowel. Pour in a surface release
agent to facilitate the process as you imprint the desired pattern onto the concrete.
Step 5 – Re-Stamp
Obtain the exact pattern that was used during installation. You can rent this from a
concrete stamping store. Stamp the pattern firmly onto the concrete. Wait for 24 hours
for the site to cure. Once dry, you can clean the area with soapy water. Rinse well,
mop up the water and give it some time to air dry well.
Step 6 – Seals
As a final step, seal the repaired area with a concrete sealant. This will help to protect
your patio from damage and preserve the integrity of the installation.
 WOODEN DECK INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

Required Tools for this Deck Installation Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

 Chalk line
 Circular saw
 Corded drill
 Drill/driver - cordless
 Miter saw
 Power plane

STEP 1,
Fixed WPC keel: WPC keel or Steel Keel evenly arranged on the cement floor, we recommend the
space between joists is L=300-350mm(Middle to Middle). Using electric drill to lead hole on keel,
then screw into drill hole, fix keel on cement ground, nail head should be rotated into keel, do not
expose outside, otherwise the floor layout may be uneven.

The space between joist “L” also can according to the request to adjust. If popular Places with many
tourists (Place of interests, etc.) The distance should be less than 250mm.

STEP 2
Fixation of WPC keel—Expansion screw can help to fix the joist/keel into the concrete floor.

The fixation of wood plastic keel is to use expansion screws to fix the wood plastic keel directly
above the ground,
The distance between the fixed points of plastic expansion screw is 500mm~600mm,Require the
screw cap to be lower than the wood plastic keel surface, When wood plastic keel is fixed, need to
do whole flat.
Note: Please Pre-drill before assembling joist, if not, The Product maybe damaged very easily.
1-WPC product will slightly expands after heating. When Hanming WPC products in the assembly,
please leave 3-5mm spaces from the building.
2-when two joists meet, please leave about 10mm space between them.
STEP 3,
Fixed the first floor: When paving the first floor, you can use an electric drill to make holes on the
Side edge of the floor, then fix it to the keel by stainless steel screws. Or Using A SS start clip fix into
the joist first then put the first floor edge into it.

STEP 4,
After finish assembling the first decking,put the Plastic or Stainless Steel clip insert the decking
slot,use the rubber hammer tap on the decking,in order to ensure the space even .then use the
cross screwdriver to fix the clip,complete the installation of all the decking one by one.

Installation method of wpc decking

Note: 1. Due to the high density of wood-plastic material itself, it is necessary to use the drill hole at
the position of the self-tapping screw, and then tighten the self-tapping screw

Fix the wpc decking clips

STEP 5:
The Last PC decking aslo do it like step 3, you can use an electric drill to make holes on the Side
edge of the floor, then fix it to the keel by stainless steel screws. Then you USE L Shape WPC edge
cover or flat fascia board to cover the edges.
 HOW TO REPLACE/REPAIR WOODEN DECK DAMAGE

Step 1 Purchase a replacement board from a manufacturer or

supplier. Many home supply stores sell decking, and you can also buy it directly from
the manufacturer. Ensure your new board matches the size and color of your existing
decking.
 You can search online to find a manufacturer near you.

Step 2 Use a pencil to mark the board in 3 equal intervals. Look at your
board, and divide it vertically into approximately 3 equal parts. Draw a vertical line
running the length of the board so it's divided in thirds.[4]
 This way, you can easily separate your board.

Step 3 Make 2 parallel cuts with a hand saw to remove the center of
the board. Use a circular hand saw to easily make your cuts. Position the saw at the
start of 1 of your lines, and make a straight cut down the board following the line. Then,
do the same thing for your other line.[5]
 Make your cuts as straight as possible so the lines are parallel.
 Keep your fingers away from the blade at all times to prevent injury.
 Wear safety goggles to protect your eyes.

Step 4 Remove the center piece of wood from the rest of the
board. Using your hands, lift up on the board from 1 side, and take it out of its spot.
Place the board down on the neck next to you.[6]
 The board should easily come out from the rest with minimal force.

Step 5 Take out the other 2 remaining side pieces of the board from
the tabs. Once you remove the piece in the center, pick up the other 2 pieces of the
board. The boards are secured by small, metal tabs underneath. To remove the boards,
simply lift up on them so they separate from the tabs. Place them all next to each other
out of the way until you can dispose of them.[7]
 Throw your pieces away when it is trash night.
 To protect your hands, wear safety gloves as you do this. That way, they cannot get
scraped.

Step 6 Hammer the tabs on the sides so the screw heads only show
on 1 side. There are several small metal tabs that held the old board in place. After the
old board is out of the way, use a hammer to push the metal tabs downward. Hit the
tabs with moderate force about 3-5 times until they are flush with the board next to it.
This gets the tabs out of the way, so you can easily fit the new board in place.[8]
 If you are having trouble, use more force as you hit the tabs.

Step 7 Place a new board on the remaining tabs. Once the tabs are
hammered down, simply lay down the new board in place of the old one. Make sure you
use the same size and color of Trex decking.[9]

Step 8 Use a pry bar to put the new board into place. To secure the
board into its spot, put the tip if the pry bar in between the new board and the board
next to it, and pull back on the pry bar with light pressure.[10]
 Do this for both sides to wedge the board into place.

Step 9 Drill screws into the new board and the base. Once you have
the board in position, put the screw in between the new board and its adjacent board.
Then, place a screw at a 45-degree angle at the side of the board. Use a drill to secure
the nail in place. Drill 1 nail into the left and right side at both the top and bottom. [11]
 This screws secure the board in place.