Republic of the Philippines

SORSOGON STATE COLLEGE

Technology Department
Sorsogon City

LABORATORY MANUAL
IN
AUTOMOTIVE TECHNOLOGY
[A.T. 211: ENGINE SYSTEM
SERVICING]

Prepared by:

CARLOS D. DIOQUINO – Asso. Prof. III

LEVY H. JASO – Asso. Prof. II
SERGIO D. DEYTO – Asst. Prof. IV
DANILO E. DOLINDO – Asst. Prof. I
JOSE LASALA JR. – Inst. III
RAMIL D. EVANGELISTA – INST. III
MARK DARREL A. ERGINA – Inst. I
EDWARD B. TAYAM – Inst. I

INTRODUCTION
 Engine is a machine that converts chemical energy to heat energy producing mechanical

energy. There are two kinds of an engine, the External Combustion Engine and the Internal

Combustion Engine. The earlier type of an engine has now been outdated and is not used

nowadays. The latter type is considered as the primary type of the engine widely used in our

time. In the internal combustion engine, the pressure from the combustion itself operates the

mechanical parts that create motion. The internal combustion engine consists different engine

systems essential for the optimum performance of an engine. These includes the Cooling System,

Lubrication System, Fuel System, Intake and Exhaust System.

The activities set in this subject is designed to further develop the knowledge of students in

the different engine systems principles of operation. This will expose the students in diagnosing

and repairing the different components of engine systems such as Fuel System, Lubrication

System, Cooling System and Exhaust system. It will also cover the enhancement of

competencies in repairing other engine mechanical systems.

TERMINOLOGIES

1. CYLINDER HEAD – sits above the cylinder on the top of the cylinder block.

2. INTAKE PORT – serves as the passage of the intake air and fuel mixture.

3. EXHAUST PORT – exhaust gases pass through this port.

4. CAMSHAFT – this component part actuates the intake and exhaust valves.
5. SAE – Society of Automotive Engineers

6. API – American Petroleum Institute

7. VISCOSITY – the resistance of an oil to flow.

8. OIL FILTER – strains dirt and abrasive from the oil.

9. OIL DIP STICK – used to check oil level.

10. LUBRICATION – the process of lubricating moving parts for smooth operation.

11. FUEL – is a chemical substance used to produce heat energy that powers any motor vehicle.

12. VOLATILE – easily evaporated at normal temperature.

13. OCTANE – the standard measure of the performance of an engine fuel.

14. FUEL METERING SYSTEM – controls the amount of fuel that enters the engine.

15. AIR FILTER – filter that removes dirt and dust particles from the air stream being ingested by

the engine.

16. CARBURETAOR – mixes air fuel to be feed in an engine.

17. RADIATOR – a device that keep the engine at normal operating temperature by passing the

coolant through a series of water channels that allows heat to be released.

18. THERMOSTAT – shut the coolant until it reaches a set temperature at which point it opens and

lets coolant pass. Its basic function is to allow the engine to warm more quickly.
 GENERAL MANIPULATIVE PROCEDURES

A STUDENT PERFORMING THESE SET OF ACTIVITIES SHOULD ALWAYS EMPLOY THE

FOLLOWING CRITERIA:

I. SAFETY:

1. Safety should always be the priority of each student performing the activities.

2. The students should always wear personal protective equipment at all times while

performing activities.

II. PROFECIENCY:

1. The student should be proficient enough in undertaking the designed activities in each

subjects.
 2. The student should possess proficiency in the application of the knowledge and skills in

each activity.

3. The student must know how to use the right tool for the right job.

III. ACCURACY:

1. The student should always follow the set procedures stated in this manual.

2. The student comply the competencies required by each activity.

3. The student should meet the standards set for the development of his/her skills.

APPARATUS

QUANTIT UNIT SPECIFICATION

Y
1 SET VEHICLE LIFTER
1 SET BOX WRENCH
1 SET OPEN WRENCH
1 SET SOCKET WRENCH
1 PC TROUBLE LIGHT
1 PC FILTER WRENCH
1 SET SCREW DRIVERS
1 PC TORQUE WRENCH
1 SET VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR
1 SET AIR COMPRESSOR
1 PC GASOLINE/DIESEL CONTAINER
 I. ACTIVITY TITLE: CHANGE OIL AND OIL FILTER

II. OBJECTIVES:

At the end of this activity the student should be able to:

1. Perform the process of changing oil and oil filter.

2. Identify the right lubricant for a vehicle.
3. Use the proper tool for changing the oil and oil filter.

III. TOOLS/MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT:
QUANTIT UNIT TOOL/MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT
Y
1 SET VEHICLE LIFTER
1 SET SOCKET WRENCH
1 PC FILTER WRENCH
1 SET EXTENSION HANDLE
1 SET POWER HANDLE
1 PC OIL FILTER
4 LITERS ENGINE OIL
IV.
PROCEDURES:

STEP 1
Run your engine.
Since warm oil drains faster than cold, run your engine for only a couple of minutes. You never
want to get your engine up to full operating temperature, because the oil will be way too hot to
safely drain.

STEP 2
Drive your car onto two ramps.
Apply the parking brake. Remove the key. Place chucks behind the wheels for safety. Put on
your safety glasses and gloves.

STEP 3
Locate the oil drain plug and place the oil pan below it.
Consult your owner’s service manual for help in locating the oil drain plug, and remember that
the oil will flow at an angle into the pan. Loosen the plug with a socket wrench.

STEP 4
Unscrew the plug by hand.
While unscrewing it, push the plug back toward the pan to keep oil from rushing out until you
are ready to remove the plug from the hole.
Be careful—that oil may be hot!
STEP 5
Drain old oil.
Check your owner’s service manual to find the location of the filler cap on top of your engine.
Removing it makes the draining process faster because air can enter from the top.

STEP 6
Replace oil plug.
Once all the old oil is drained, replace and tighten the oil plug by hand, making sure it’s not
cross-threaded. After the plug is hand-tight, secure it with a wrench. If indicated in your owner’s
service manual, use a new drain plug gasket. Never over-tighten the drain plug.
STEP 7
Remove existing oil filter.
Even after you’ve drained the oil, the old oil filter can still contain hot oil. Position the oil pan
under the old filter, then be very careful as you use your oil filter wrench to remove the filter.
Use a rag to clean the mounting surface on the engine, and make sure the gasket from the old
filter is not stuck to it.

STEP 8
Lubricate the new filter and screw into place by hand.
Before installing your oil filter lightly coat its rubber seal with fresh oil. Check to make sure the
seal is properly seated in the filter, then screw on the filter by hand. It’s usually not necessary to
tighten the oil filter with the wrench, but check the filter’s instructions to be sure.
STEP 9
Pour in new oil.
Make sure to use a clean funnel, and pour in the amount and type of oil specified for your
vehicle. Some oil may not have drained out, and you don’t want to overfill it. When you have
completed pouring in the specified amount of oil, don’t forget to replace the cap.

STEP 10
Run the engine and look for leaks.
After you run the engine for a few minutes, check the area around the oil drain plug and the filter
for leaks. If you see a leak, cut off the engine and correct it. If you see no leaks, shut off the
engine and let it rest a minute or two to give the oil time to drain down.
STEP 11
Check the oil level.
Remove the dipstick. Wipe it off. Replace it. Then remove it again to see if it’s up to the “full
mark.” If it’s not full, add the balance of the oil shown in the owner’s service manual. Finish up
by removing the chucks and backing off the ramps.

STEP 12
Dispose of old oil and oil filter properly.
Take both to either an authorized used engine oil drop-off center or recycling center to recycle
the old oil for you.

Republic of the Philippines

SORSOGON STATE COLLEGE
 Technology Department
Sorsogon City

Name: ______________________________ Date: _______________

Yr. and Sec: _________

ACTIVITY I
CHANGE OIL AND OIL FILTER
EXCELLE AVERAGE GOOD FAIR POOR TOTA
NT (4) (3) (2) (1) L
(5)

ACCURACY

PROFICIENC
Y

SPEED

SAFETY
TOTAL

Criteria:
1. Accuracy – how accurate he/she perform the task and procedures given.
2. Proficiency – how proficient he/she in performing the job.
3. Speed – how fast he/she finished the job without compromising the quality of work.
4. Safety – how safe he/she while performing the job.

Assessed by:

______________________________
INSTRUCTOR/PROFESSOR

VII. REFERENCES:
https://napafilters.com/do-it-yourself/step-by-step-filter-maintenance/what-you-need-to-know-about-
changing-your-oil-and-oil-filter/

https://www.google.com/search?biw=1920&bih=920&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=_w53XZHOEIzv-
Qb_oq34Bw&q=proper+oil+level+on+dipstick&oq=proper+oil&gs_l=img.1.0.0l2j0i30j0i8i30j0i24l6.47653
7.483205..486459...0.0..0.288.3572.0j12j8......0....1..gws-wiz-
img.....0..0i67.GVHf440RTTQ#imgdii=XL4Y2BUA_GasAM:&imgrc=VhO2KmPBDeePHM:

https://www.google.com/search?
q=CHANGE+OIL+AND+OIL+FILTER+WITH+ILLUSTRATION&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi
G6sfHmMXkAhUXFogKHf93CssQsAR6BAgEEAE&biw=1920&bih=920#imgdii=BkmPvDY5zn1wsM:&imgrc=
0f_Y2oDGXqbWRM:

I. ACTIVITY TITLE: CHANGE POWER STEERING FLUID

II. OBJECTIVES:

At the end of this activity the student should be able to:

1. Perform the process of changing and flushing power steering fluid.

2. Identify the right fluid for a certain vehicle.
3. Use the proper tool for changing and flushing power steering fluid.

III. TOOLS/MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT:
QUANTIT UNIT TOOL/MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT
Y
1 SET VEHICLE LIFTER
1 SET SOCKET WRENCH
1 LITER POWER STEERING FLUID
1 SET BOX WRENCH
1 SET OPEN WRENCH
1 SET SCREW DRIVERS

IV.
PROCEDURES:

A. KNOWING WHEN TO FLUSH POWER STEERING

STEP 1
Check your owner's manual for the recommended power steering flush schedule. 
Your power steering system is actually remarkable at staying clean. That said, over time
natural wear and tear will cause bits of rubber, plastic, and dirt to enter the fluid, and this can
cause problems to the entire system if the fluid is not flushed. Each car has it's own suggested
interval after which you should change the fluid, so look up your model's time frame.
For high-end cars, you should consider replacing the fluid every 35-40 thousand miles.

STEP 2
Check your power steering fluid reservoir monthly to check for leaks. 
Your power steering fluid level should barely change from month to month. If it is changing,
then you likely have a leak and should bring your car to an auto shop as soon as possible.
Your reservoir usually has a labeled cap or a picture of a steering wheel. If you are having
trouble locating this semi-transparent plastic tank, check your owner's manual.
STEP 3
Check the color and consistency of your power steering fluid. 
Open the reservoir and use a flashlight to peer down into the fluid. The consistency, color,
and smell will tell you whether or not you need to change your fluid:

Flush your fluid if it smells burnt, looks dark brown or black, and/or has shiny, metallic
bits in it.

Refresh your fluid if it is darkly colored, your owner's manual recommends it, and/or if
you do frequent towing or high-weight driving.

Your fluid is fine if is lightly colored, dark without metallic bits or chunks, or was replaced
in the last two to three years.
B. FLUSHING YOUR FLUID

STEP 1
Lift the vehicle using a jack and assure that the front wheels are raised to a sufficient
height, allowing you to slide easily under the car. Since you will be rotating the steering
wheel, jack stands are recommended in order to allow free movement of the tires.

STEP 2
Locate and remove the catch tray under the power steering system. Some cars will not
have a catch tray. If confused, check the owner's manual.

Place a disposable pan right under the location of the catch tray to capture the fluid as you
flush it.
STEP 3
Drain the power steering fluid by
disconnecting the low-pressure
hose from the steering pump at
its lowest point. There will
be multiple thin (1/2-1" thick) hoses
running from your power
steering. With your pan ready
underneath, unhook this
hose and drain the old fluid.
Be ready for the fluid to flow as
soon as you unhook it.
Gloves, eye protection, and
long sleeves are recommended.

STEP 4
Unscrew the cap to the power steering reservoir and add roughly 1/2 the
manufacturer's recommended amount of power steering fluid. In order to fully flush the
system, you'll need to remove the air bubbles and push out the rest of the fluid in the hoses.
Fill it roughly halfway before moving on.
STEP 5
Turn the car on and add more fluid, keeping the reservoir half full. It is often easiest to
have a friend turn the car on while you pour. You want to keep your eyes on the draining
fluid as well as the current level of the reservoir. When the draining fluid is clearly new fluid,
shut the car off.
Have your friend turn the wheel back and forth as you pour. This will help remove air from
the lines.
The fluid will likely bubble as you fill it. This is good, as it represents the air being flushed
from the system.

STEP 6
Reattach the power steering line after you turn the car off. Power steering fluid is not
thick, so it should not be hard to close the line up once you're done working. Once the
fluid is flushed, shut the car off
and reattach everything how
you found it.
STEP 7
Fill the reservoir up to the recommended level and close it up. Once you've got the air out
and the line closed, fill up the reservoir to the recommended level.

STEP 8
Start the engine and rotate the steering wheel from one locked position to the other for
five minutes. Listen for a buzzing sound which indicates that there is air trapped in the
system. Continue to turn the steering wheel until the fluid is properly circulated throughout
the system, releasing any remaining air.
STEP 9
Turn the car off and top the reservoir with more fluid. More likely than not, your fluid
level will seem to drop after you test the steering wheel. This is because fluid is being drawn
out of the reservoir and into the lines. Top off the reservoir with more power steering fluid to
finish the job.

STEP 10
Verify that the steering wheel is operating properly when the vehicle's weight is on the
tires. Turn the car on and turn the steering wheel back and forth. Ensure that the wheels can
turn like normal. If they don't, bleed the system again and refill it.
I. ACTIVITY TITLE: BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT

II. OBJECTIVES:

At the end of this activity the student should be able to:

1. Perform the proper manner of brake pad replacement.

2. Identify whether the brake pad is subject for replacement.
3. Recommend the right brake pad specification for a certain vehicle.

III. TOOLS/MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT:
QUANTIT UNIT TOOL/MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT
Y
1 SET VEHICLE LIFTER
1 SET FLOOR JACK
1 LITER TIRE WRENCH
1 SET BOX WRENCH
1 SET OPEN WRENCH
1 SET SCREW DRIVERS
1 SET PLIERS
1 SET BRAKE PAD
IV. PROCEDURES:

STEP 1:
Gather All The Needed Materials. Gather all necessary materials before uninstalling the
tire.

STEP 2
Raise Car and Remove Road Wheel. Using a floor jack or your car's emergency jack, raise
the road wheel off the road. Remove the road wheel to expose the disc and the brake caliper.
If you're doing front brakes, you may wish to turn your steering wheel to afford better access
to the caliper.
STEP 3
Remove Retaining Clips. At the back of the caliper, you'll find two complex-shaped little twisty
spring clips. These springs hold the retaining pins in, which in turn hold the brake pads. Using
needle nosed pliers and a flat blade screwdriver, remove these spring clips.

STEP 4
Back Off Pads. Using a screwdriver, VERY GENTLY pry between a pad and the disc, or better
yet between the back of the pad and the piston.
Your objective is to compress the piston very slightly, so you can easily slip the old pads out.

STEP 5
Remove Retaining Pins. Now, remove the two pins which actually hold the brake pads in place
in the caliper. As shown here, use a SMALL hammer, and a drift punch, and gently tapped them
out. You may simply be able to grab the head with pliers and twist/pull it out.
STEP 6
Remove Pads. Now withdraw the pads, one at a
time, from the back of the caliper.

STEP 7
Inspect New Pads. Get your new pads out of the box, and compare their shape to the old pads. If
all is well, go on to the next step.
STEP 8
Compress Piston. Since your new pads are obviously much thicker than your worn-out pads,
there's not enough space to put your new pads in place. So, you need to compress the piston back
into the caliper.
There are many ways to do this; probably the safest is to use a C-clamp around the piston and the
back of the caliper. Be careful not to scratch, mar, or bend your brake disc. And be careful to
exert pressure *straight* on the piston, as much as possible.

STEP 9
Test-fit Pads. Test fit your new pads into the caliper, to verify you have compressed the piston
sufficiently.
I. ACTIVITY TITLE: SHOCK ABSORBER REPLACEMENT

II. OBJECTIVES:

At the end of this activity the student should be able to:

1. Perform the procedure of replacing shock absorber.

2. Choose the best shock absorber to be used for a certain vehicle.
3. Inspect the condition of the shock absorber.

III. TOOLS/MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT:
QUANTIT UNIT TOOL/MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT
Y
1 SET VEHICLE LIFTER
1 SET FLOOR JACK
1 LITER TIRE WRENCH
1 SET BOX WRENCH
1 SET OPEN WRENCH
1 SET SCREW DRIVERS
1 SET PLIERS
1 SET COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR
 IV. PROCEDURES:

STEP 1
Remove bolts from the shock tower. Lots of cars have the top bolts under the fabric in the
trunk of the car, which means you'll have to lift up the lining to get to the shock bolts and
remove them with a ratchet and socket. As always, consult your shop manual for more
specific guidelines regarding the location of the shock tower bolts. In general, though, they'll
be in the trunk.

To unfasten the bolts, turn the socket and ratchet counterclockwise, greasing the bolts with
penetrating fluid to eliminate any surface rust, if necessary.

STEP 2
Disconnect the shock from the suspension. Use a socket set or a nut splitter to disengage the
nut that connecting the shock to the suspension, and remove it from the bolt. If there isn't enough
room to operate the splitter, you can apply penetrating solvent.
Depending on the assembly, you may also need to disengage the knuckle at the top of brake
assembly to get the shock. Consult your owner's manual to find out for sure. Use the same
process to remove the nut that is positioned at the top and keep the nuts separate so you will
know which one goes where when it is time to install your new shocks.

STEP 3
Remove the shock absorber from the bottom and top bolts. Wiggling the shock off the bolts
can be surprisingly difficult, especially if the shocks are mounted on studs with a retaining
bracket and everything's rusty. Wiggle it around a while and it should come off eventually.

STEP 4
Fit the new shock back onto the suspension control arm. You might need to use some
pressure to constrict the shock as it falls into place, and you might need a help to help lift the
suspension back up to reinstall the bolts in the correct positions. It can be kind of a balancing act,
so it helps to have another set of hands. Screw on the nuts hand tight.

STEP 5
If needed, you may once again affix the anti-roll bar if you removed it earlier. Reattach it
and screw the bolts back on hand-tight. Replace the shock tower nuts you removed at the
beginning of the process, probably in the trunk of the vehicle.

STEP 6
Check your torque specs in the service manual. Before you go tightening everything back
down, recheck the specifications for torque to be sure everything's secure.
STEP 7
Repeat the steps to replace the
other 3 shock absorbers, if
necessary. Most of the shocks should wear out at the same time, so if you're going to do one,
you're probably going to end up doing them all. Do in following the same steps and then put the
wheels back on and tighten the lug nuts to finish the job.
I. ACTIVITY TITLE: CHECKING VEHICLE CONDITION (BLOWBAGETS)

II. OBJECTIVES:

At the end of this activity the student should be able to:

1. Perform the process of vehicle inspection.

2. Ensure that vehicle parts are intact and are in good condition.
3. Replace and repair parts that requires maintenance.

III. TOOLS/MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT:
QUANTIT UNIT TOOL/MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT
Y
1 SET VEHICLE LIFTER
1 SET SOCKET WRENCH
4 LITER ENGINE OIL
1 SET BOX WRENCH
1 SET OPEN WRENCH
1 SET SCREW DRIVERS
1 SET TIRE GAUGE
1 SET BATTERY CHARGER

IV. PROCEDURES:

STEP 1
Check the battery. Before you get in your car, make sure your battery has a strong charge,
clean terminals, and proper cable-to-terminal connection. Car batteries typically last for three
to four years. Replace yours if it’s almost near the end of its service life.
STEP 2
Check lighting system. Fully functioning auto lights are a safety must-have for nighttime
driving. However, their bulbs burn out or get defective over time. This is why you have to
inspect your car’s lights regularly. Test your headlights, turn signals, brake lights, reverse lights,
and tail lights in the garage. The light beam should reflect on the wall. To confirm if the lights
are working properly, ask someone to stand in front and then behind the car as you operate the
lights. Check also your lights for dirt, cracks, and breakage. If you spot any, have your lights.

STEP 3
Check your engine’s oil level and
color. When the oil is below the
minimum level, it’s time to refill.
Look also for leaks, as they’re a sign that
your car is quickly losing oil.
 STEP 4
Check coolant level. Overheating is
every motorist’s worst nightmare. A
simple check of the water in your radiator
will save you from that road disaster. It
also helps to have several one-liter bottles

of water in your trunk, just in case your car overheats

while you’re driving and you need to put water in the
radiator to cool the engine down.
STEP 5
Check Brakes. Faulty brakes are a disaster waiting to
happen. Lower your chance of meeting a road
accident—ensure that your brake system is working
properly before you take your car out of the garage.
Push the brake pedal all the way to the floor. It
shouldn’t feel spongy and have little to no resistance. Otherwise, it isn’t safe to drive when the
brakes are weak.
STEP 6
Check tire pressure. Are your tires properly inflated? Keep the right tire pressure to prevent
accidents and decreased fuel
economy. Tires, regardless if
they’re old or new, lose air over time.
This problem isn’t easy to detect with
the naked eye— you’ll need to use a
tire pressure gauge. Check the tires
also for nails and other sharp objects
that puncture them.

STEP 7
Check fuel level. Imagine how troublesome it would be if you run out of fuel while you’re stuck
in traffic or driving along the road
where a gas station is nowhere in sight.
So don’t forget to check your fuel
level through the fuel gauge before you
take your car out for a drive.
STEP 8
Check Engine Condition. It’s better to detect an engine problem before you drive off rather
than deal with it in the middle of the road. Check for leaks that indicate an engine problem. Also,
start the engine and listen to its sound.

STEP 9
Check tire condition. Driving with worn-out tires can lead to a fatal accident. So before you
leave for a road trip, spend a few minutes to check your tires for bulges, bumps, tears, and other
signs of damage. To check your tire tread depth, insert a coin into the tire’s grooves. If you can
see much of the coin’s outer band, that means the grooves are already shallow, and you need new
tires soon.
STEP 10
Prepare yourself. Human error is the leading cause of road accidents in Metro Manila. A report
from the Metro Manila Accident Recording and Analysis System cites fatigue, sleepiness,
drunkenness, and medical problems like asthma and dizziness as examples. Are you physically
and emotionally fit to drive today? Check yourself! If you’re sick, dizzy, tired, sleepy, or drunk,
you better let somebody else take over the steering wheel.
I. ACTIVITY TITLE: CHECKING TIRE PRESSURE

II. OBJECTIVES:

At the end of this activity the student should be able to:

1. Perform checking tire pressure.

2. Ensure that all the tire has the right tire pressure.
3. Set the recommended tire pressure for a certain vehicle.

III. TOOLS/MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT:
QUANTIT UNIT TOOL/MATERIALS/EQUIPMENT
Y
1 SET VEHICLE LIFTER
1 SET TIRE WRENCH
1 SET TIRE GAUGE

IV. PROCEDURES:

STEP 1
Start With Cold Tires If Possible. Vehicle manufacturers specify PSI – literally “pounds
per square inch” of pressure – assuming tires are cold. Tires are considered cold when the
vehicle has been parked for three hours or more, or if the vehicle has been driven less than a
mile (1.6 km) at moderate speed. PSI is the unit your pressure gauge uses to provide
readings.

STEP 2
Check The Manufacturer’s Recommended Psi. Look on the driver’s side door jamb or
your owner’s manual to find the recommended cold tire PSI for your front and rear tires.  If
you cannot find it, you should consult your vehicle dealer, manufacturer, or a qualified tire
professional.

STEP 3
Write Down The Psi For Each Tire. If your front and rear tires require different pressure
levels, write down the correct PSI for each to avoid getting confused as you move around
your vehicle checking tire pressure.
STEP 4
Check Tire Pressure With Your Gauge. Remove the valve cap from one of your tires.
Then place the pressure gauge on the valve stem and press down hard enough so the hiss
sound disappears and your gauge provides a reading. With a standard gauge, the air pressure
will push a small bar out from the bottom of the gauge. Measurement units are etched into
the bar. A digital gauge will show you the reading on a screen. Write down the reading and
repeat this process for all four tires.

STEP 5
Fill To The Recommended Psi. Use an air compressor to refill any tires with low pressure.
Many air compressors are different, so read directions carefully to be sure you’re using it
correctly. After filling your tires, use the gauge to check pressure again. At this point, it’s ok
if you overfilled the tires because you can always let some air back out. Never drive on
overinflated tires. Over inflation can result in decreased traction, premature wear, and
decreased impact absorption. 

STEP 6
Repeat: Check Tire Pressure Monthly. Make the above procedure a monthly ritual.
Regularly checking your tire pressure is the best way to ensure your tires never dip far below
the optimal PSI.