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ABSTRACT
New product development is one of the riskiest, but most critical strategies in any competitive
industry (Cooper, 2001). Many companies have built competitiveness and obtained tremendous
profits through new product development. Global competition in the textile and apparel industry
has become more intense due, in part, to the changes in regulation of world trade. To compete in
the future of textiles and apparel, firms will need to be innovative, while reducing cycle times and
cutting costs. New product development methods will contribute or enhance the marketing of
innovative products. The purpose of this paper is to review the nature of new product
development (NPD) and explore diverse NPD processes identifie d by previous researchers. This
paper will also introduce several examples of new product development process models and
strategies of companies and products in the textile and apparel industry. This research will be of
interest to academicians and industrial personnel in the textile and apparel field through a
review of NPD literature.
Keywords: New product development, innovation, NPD process, textiles and apparel
Recently, Kumar et al. (2005) surveyed five generation, product and marketing plan
new product categories including new -to- creation and evaluation, and
the-world, new -to-company, addition to commercialization of a new product” (p.
existing lines, repositioning, and cost 450).
reduction. The study’s results found that
31.68 percent of launched products fall into New product development can be rewarding
‘addition to existing lines’ category (Kumar and is critical to maintain a healthy
et al., 2005). The cost reduction category organization. Cooper (2001) indicates,
was in second place with 22 percent of all “New product development is one of the
new launches, followed by new -to-company, riskiest, yet most important, endeavors of
market repositioning, and new -to-the-world the modern corporation” (p. 4). Successful
consecutively (Kumar et al., 2005). new product development allows market
expansion, increases profits, and enhances
2.2. New Product Development creativity and leadership. But, new products
failure rates are considerable, and cost of
New product development is essential for failure is high. According to Booz-Allen
exceptional corporate performance, and and Hamilton (1982), the failure rate of new
research about what leads to new product products introduced into the market
success and failure has been carried out for remained in the 33 percent to 35 percent
both goods and services (Brentani, 2001). range between 1963 and 1981 (Urban &
Ulrich and Eppinger (2004) describe New Hauser, 1993). More recently, Crawford et
Product Development (NPD) as “the set of al. (2003) reported that around 40 percent of
activities beginning with the perception of new products fail. The foremost reasons for
market opportunity and ending in the new product failure is “no need for the
production, sale, and delivery of a product” product”, and “there was a need, but the new
(p. 2). According to Belliveau et al. (2002), product did not meet that need” (Crawford
new product development is “the overall et al., 2003, p. 7). Failures also can be
process of strategy, organization, concept linked to poor market research, poor
New product development can also be The design function also plays a pivotal role
costly. Enormous investments in research in defining the physical form of the product
and development (R&D), engineering, to satisfy customers’ needs. The design
market research, marketing development, function includes engineering design such as
and testing are made before the product is mechanical, electrical, software, and
launched (Urban et al., 1993). These are industrial design such as aesthetics,
major investments or major resource ergonomics, and user interfaces (Ulrich et
allocations for a company including capital al., 2004).
resources and human resources; and with
today’s global competitive marketplace, In manufacturing, industrial design has
many companies are closely watching become a key factor in differentiating
expenditures. products from their competitors by
providing them a coherent identity or higher
2.3. Key NPD Functions and Cross levels of perceived value (Bruce et al.,
Functional Integration 1995). Engineering design has a critical role
in the development of products in the
Development of new products is an manufacturing industry, solving technical
interdisciplinary activity requiring problems using available technology in the
contribution from nearly all the functions of most efficient method, and integrating
a company (Ulrich et al., 2004). The product development with the requirements
following functions are consistently of effective production (Rothwell & Gariner,
essential to new product development 1984).
projects:
3) Manufacturing
1) Marketing
Manufacturing is responsible for creating
The functions of marketing mediate the and operating production systems in order to
interactions between the firm and its produce new products. However, broadly
customers. Marketing facilitates the defined, the manufacturing function also
recognition of product opportunities, the often involves purchasing, distribution, and
definition of market segments, and the installation (Ulrich et al., 2004).
identification of customers’ needs (Ulrich et Manufacturing capability can be one
al., 2004). Marketing also arranges for technical success factor, and it relates to
communication between the firm and its whether the company has internal or
customers, sets target prices, and oversees external capability to manufacture higher
the launch and promotion of the product quality products to satisfy the customer
(Ulrich et al., 2004). demand (Crawford et al. 2003).
Source: Urban, G. L. & H auser, J. R. (1993). Design and Marketing of New Products (2nd ed,).
New Jersey: Prentice-Hall. p. 33.
2.4. Successful New Product Management (Bruce et al., 1995). The inputs that
contribute to the value of new products tend
The main issues of new product to conflict with each other, but there are
development relate to the need for synergies (Crawford et al., 2003, See Figure
interdisciplinary inputs, for quality input, for 3).
cost input and for speed in the process
Value
Time Cost
2.5. Key Research Issues in New Product and interfunctional coordination (Tyler et al,
Development 2002).
Companies with ‘first to market’ products However, it is important to note that “in
capture the market, enjoy a high market practice many of activities of the phases will
share, create barriers to entry for the be going on simultaneously, and interaction
competition and create brand awareness for will be common” (Urban et al., 1993, p. 50).
their product (Prasnikar et al., 2005). Compared to the sequential process,
Carrillo and Richard (2004) state, “An simultaneous (overlapping) phases of
innovating first entrant gains a monopoly development reduce time to market and
that yields premium price until a smooth the transition between phases.
competitor’s eventual entry drives prices Therefore, it is critical to be aware that the
down. Conversely, delays in bringing product development process is a multi-
products to market can be devastating” (p. cross-functional program, where all
2). functions work together to accomplish the
required task (Crawford et al., 2003).
3) Quick Changes in both Technology and
Customer Needs Each new product development process
model in Table 2 consists of the different
How quickly the product can be changed to process arrangements. For example, Urban
fit with technology and customer needs is and Hauser (1993) describes a five step
also an important issue in new product decision process model while Trott’s (2002)
development (Cooper et al., 1994). NPD process is composed of eight-steps.
Especially, in the textile and apparel Nevertheless, all new product development
industry, it is critical to effectively recognize process (NPD) models have similarities in
and adapt to quickly changing trends in the the key activities and functions. Even
market (Keiser et al., 2003). though all new product development process
models use the different step terminologies,
3. New Product Development Processes the process begins with perception of market
opportunities and typically involves
A new product development process (NPD identification of customers’ needs, design
Process) is defined as “a disciplined and development process, product and market
defined set of tasks and steps that describe testing, and market launch. In addition, all
the normal means by which a company the processes or activities are
repetitively converts embryonic ideas into multidisciplinary within different company
salable products or services” (Belliveau et organizations.
al., 2002). Ulrich et al. (2004) state, “A new
product development process is the Many other researchers (Barclay, Holroyd &
sequence of steps or activities that an Poolton, 1995; Cooper & Kleinschmidt,
enterprise employs to conceive, design, and 1986; Erhorn & Stark, 1994; Gruenwald,
commercialize a product” (p.12). Several 1992; Hart & Baker, 1994; Himmelfarb,
researchers have developed new product 1992; Rosenthal, 1992; Saren, 1994) also
processes for use with assorted products. have developed new product processes
1 2 3 4 5
Concept
Bruce and Idea Screening Marketing Business Product
Develop Market Testing Commercialization
Biemans Generation Strategy Analysis Development
ment
Sources used :
Urban, G. L. & Hauser, J. R. (1993). Design and Marketing of New Products (2nd ed.). New Jersey:
Prentice-Hall.
Ulrich, K. T. & Eppinger, S. D. (2004). Product Design and Development (3rd ed.). New York: McGraw-
Hill.
Crawford, M. & Benedetto, A. D. (2003). New Products Management (7th ed.). New York: McGraw-Hill.
Cooper R. G. (2001). Winning at New Products (3rd ed.). New York: Addison-Wesley.
Bruce, M. & Biemans, W. G. (1995). Product Development – Meeting the Challenge of the Design-
Marketing Interface. New York: John Willey & Sons.
Trott, P. (2002). Innovation Management and New Product Development (2nd ed.). London: FT Prentice
Hall.
Source: Glen Raven Inc. (n.d.). Retrieved June 22, 2005, from http://www.gleraven.com
Marketing strategy plays a critical role at In particular, Glen Raven considers the
Glen Raven, not just in supporting significance of the voice of the customer
successful brands, but in understanding (VOC) for their products. The company
markets and guiding Glen Raven’s endeavors to identify customers’
investment direction (Borneman, 2005). requirements and to develop the high quality
Borneman (2005) explains, “Few textile product that exceeds customer expectations
companies understand and act on market (Glen Raven, 2005). To satisfy customers’
data the way Glen Raven does to continually expectations, the R&D team at Glen Raven
reposition assets and make tough decisions spends time with sales force, attends trade
on entering and exiting markets” (p. 20). shows, and interacts with customers.
The company has the capability to adjust to
change that has kept it alive through good 4.2. Freudenberg Nonwovens
times and bad (Rivas, 2005). Glen Raven
Inc., as recently as six years ago, was 50 Freudenberg Nonwoven Group, a wholly
percent apparel, and today it is less than 3 owned family enterprise headquartered in
percent apparel. It shows that the company Germany, is the world’s largest
does not get bound up in tradition or past manufacturer of nonwoven goods. The
successes (Borneman, 2005). company retained number one world
ranking in annual sales of nonwoven
The company’s aggressive investment in industry in 2003, at an estimated 1.4 billion
supporting its marketing strategy is reflected dollars (Bitz, 2004). Freudenberg Group
in various examples including research and consists of 17 production facilities located in
development, and testing. A few years ago, 12 different countries including Argentina,
the company invested one million dollars in Brazil, China, Germany, Italy, Japan, South
improving its testing facilities to become Africa, South Korea, Spain, Taiwan, the
fully certified to test fabrics (McCurry, UK, and the USA (Bitz, 2004). The
2004). company employs the five core divisions –
interlinings, filtration, hygiene/medical,
4.1.3. Globalization technical nonwovens and tuft (Nonwovens
Industry, 2003), and its divisions involve
Currently, Glen Raven, Inc. has expanded to numerous markets from apparel interlinings,
127 countries around the world (Borneman, automotive interior trims, hygiene products,
2005). The company searches for healthy to carpet backings. Freudenberg’s five
and growing markets with room for Glen divisions are now independently responsible
Raven to succeed. It builds brands and for product development, marketing, sales
barriers to entry by competitors, and and services as well as for its own
thoroughly defends those markets with production, plants and production lines
Article Designation: Scholarly 14 JTATM
Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005
(Nonwovens Industry, 2004). Thus, each our customers” (Nonwovens Industry,
division is capable of operating 2004).
independently while they still profit from the
advantages of a large company such as 4.2.2. Global Alliances and Partnership
technology, purchasing power, financial aid,
and human resources (Nonwovens Industry, Freudenberg has a long successful tradition
2003). of global cooperation, alliances and
partnership which enable better serve
4.2.1. Value for customers and Innovation customers as well as strength its competitive
position (Freudenberg, 2005). According to
Freudenberg’s key focus is to anticipate, Deeds and Rothaermel (2003), successful
understand and meet customers' needs and management of strategic alliances and
expectations (Freudenberg, 2005). In order partnership has become vital to firms’ new
to satisfy customers’ demands, the company product development and eventually to firm
concentrated on modernizing the product performance. Freudenberg has experienced
line and a corporate restructuring program numerous alliances and joint ventures with
(Bitz, 2004). The restructuring program was international partners. For instance, in the
designed to enable the company to react interlining division, Freudenberg has
more quickly to customers’ requirements achieved a long term relationship with the
and market trends (Bitz, 2004). The Japan Vilene Company. This relationship
company believes that it is essential to has allowed Freudenberg to match its
provide innovative products and a high level capacity in Asia to the market needs, and to
of value added service to customers to maintain a production cost structure
remain competitive in the market comparable with local producers
(Freudenberg, 2005). (Nonwovens Industry, 2004).
Freudenberg is also aware of the importance In July 2001, Freudenberg and Frisby
of supplying innovative products. They Technologies formed a joint venture. Under
consider that constant innovation in the joint venture agreement, Freudenberg
everything they do is critical for their long created nonwoven material whereas Frisby
term financial success (Freudenberg, 2005). was responsible for product manufacturing
For example, in the filtration division, the and marketing (Bitz, 2004). In June 2003,
company identified demands for fine Freudenberg acquired a 100% share of
filtration products that help to improve the ComfortTemp® products from Frisby
environment and public health. They then Technologies based in Winston-Salem,
developed and expanded filters North Carolina, USA (Bitz, 2004). In May
(MicronAir™ cabin air filters) for the 2004, in order to enhance competitiveness in
removal of odors available for household, the filtration market in China, there was
automotive and industrial end use (Bitz, another joint venture between Freudenberg,
2004). Freudenberg plans to invest in the Japan Vilene, and local Chinese partners.
construction of a new line for making The joint venture supplies motor and cabin
MicronAir™ cabin air filters in Germany air filter housing as well as filter elements to
(Bitz, 2004). Freudenberg invested 40 leading automotive manufacturers in North
million dollars to build new product and Western China (Nonwovens Industry,
development lines for total five different 2004). The international joint venture
divisions (Bitz, 2004). Stephan Tanda, a provides numerous benefits to the company
president and CEO, states, “Success for us and its partners such as sharing relevant
will come through differentiated technology technologies, increasing companies’
and tremendous diversity both when it capacity of their industry and enhancing the
comes to roll good production, finishing, bargaining power (Nakamura, 2005).
and converting. We use our broad set of
industry expertise to follow the growth of
The Herman Miller Aeron Chair is a unique Figure 5. Herman Miller Aeron Chair
product combining ergonomics, aesthetics,
Source : Herman Miller Inc. (n.d.). Retrieved
material and manufacturing innovation, and
June 27, 2005, from
mechanical invention (Herman Miller, http://www.hermanmiller.com
2005). It was a main departure from the
competing solutions to office seating. While 4.3.1. Opportunity Identification
Aeron Chair was a significant change, it was
quickly accepted as a suitable solution to the The two designers began the product
needs of current office workers (Cagan & development process without any
Vogel, 2002). Although the retail price of assumption about form or material, but with
the Aeron chair is expensive (approximately some strong convictions about what a chair
800 US dollars), the Aeron has witnessed a is required to do for a person (Herman
high degree of success in the market (Cole, Miller, 2005). They recognized new areas
2003). The next section illustrates what Bill of stress on the body from the effects of
Stumpf and Don Chadwick, designers of the spending long periods of time seated in the
Aeron Chair, saw that no one else did, and same position. They looked at issues of
why Herman Miller was willing to invest in body temperature, blood circulation, and
such an untested seating concept. spinal compression (Cagan et al., 2002).
They also recognized that the light and open
aesthetic trend had not been applied to
seating design. Office seating had been
traditionally used as a way to denote the
class structure of the office (Cagan et al.,
2002). The Aeron endeavored to shift the
emphasis from hierarchy to comfort.
The project was initiated by a team In design, the Aeron chair is the type of
(including marketers, designers, an design that no one would have predicted and
ergonomic research group, and engineers), yet when it debuted everyone responded to it
who began a potential seat design to replace in a positive way. It anticipated the shift
the existing recliners used by senior away from the need to make people feel
executives. An early emphasis on important by rank to the need to make them
ergonomic research of anthropometrics, and feel comfortable by design. The Aeron chair
issues related to sitting down and getting out was developed to fit equally well in a
of chair was studied (Cagan et al., 2002). renewed loft space and in new action-
oriented open office designs. It also looks
The team focused on new research studies elegant in combination with other furnishing
that identified issues related to long-term in high-end office decor and meeting rooms.
seating in weight distribution and heat As a result, the aesthetic and technical
transference. This focus led to the proposal uniqueness does not allow competitors to
for breathable seating surface design that imitate the chair without looking like they
allows people to retain an even heat are making a direct rip-off (Cagan et al.,
distribution in the front and back of chair. 2002). Randy Brown, a Herman Miller
After the concept proposal, the team tried to product manger, (2003) states, “The Aeron
develop the material that prevents heat build success story required an exhaustive
up from the body. However, the team collaboration among several individuals
recognized that they had to find the right with diverse talents, as well as more
supplier to make the fabric (Cole, 2003). patentable ideas than any previous Herman
Herman Miller found the Quantum Group Miller undertaking” (Cole, 2003, p. 14).
Inc. who was able to create a material to
meet Herman Miller requirements. 4.4. American Fibers and Yarns
Quantum Group, however, overcame Company
manufacturing obstacles in the fabric
development through special extrusion American Fibers and Yarns Company
methods and other manufacturing methods (AF&Y) was established in 1965 as Phillips
not typically used in most textile Fibers Corporation, developing and
manufacturing plants (Cloe, 2003). Finally, producing polypropylene filament yarn for
this fabric supplier successfully developed home furnishings and other products.
an engineered form-fitting material, which is American Fibers and Yarns Company has
a weave of elastomeric -based specialty now become the largest supplier of
fibers. polypropylene filament yarns in the United
States (Rodie, 2004). Headquartered in
The open weave that was developed has the Chapel Hill, North Carolina, AF&Y
capability to meet the performance demands maintains a technology center that
of a breathable interface between the body specializes in engineering filament yarn in
and the chair. It also provides ergonomic innovative combinations not available from
solutions and unique aesthetics (Cagan et al., other suppliers (AF&Y Co., 2005). Based
2002). The Aeron Chair offers people a on its success in the core residential contract
sense of security and safety from a health and industrial fabric markets, AF&Y is now
view point. Office workers feel that they are setting its sights on other applications and
sitting in a chair designed to fit their body markets which include repositioning
and one which will support them in the products towards knit apparel applications
variety of tasks they must perform. (Gross, 2005).
Therefore, it provides less chance of injury
and diminishes potential for the long term- American Fibers and Yarns Company has
had success in the home furnishing market
Article Designation: Scholarly 17 JTATM
Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005
by emphasizing the inherent performance products giving the consumer easy care
properties of polypropylene fiber. Innova®, characteristics such as stain resistance and
developed by AF&Y, is a fiber with washability. We are also looking at
characteristics such as light weight, quick sweaters and dress socks with all the same
drying, durability, resistance to bacteria, the characteristics” (Gross, 2005, p. 58). In
lowest thermal conductivity, abrasion order to easily identify gaps between what
resistance, and low cost (AF&Y, 2005). customers want and what the characteristics
Recently, the company penetrated the knit of products are, the company has utilized a
apparel market by promoting the benefits of matrix described as a radar chart (Apperson,
polypropylene (Gross, 2005). 2004). The radar chart effectively
demonstrates what benef its or properties
James T. Morelli, an executive vice have been found to be important to the home
president at AF&Y, says, “What we have furnishing customer. It also illustrates
got there is the exact same technology with benchmarking of the home furnishing
the same characteristics adapted for the competition, as well as the opportunities for
apparel market. We looked at how to improvement (See Figure 6).
replace cotton, rayon, polyester with these
Barnes and Bruce (2000) introduced the Figure 7 illustrates the procedure flowchart
Bandage case study, which mainly provides for NPD at Bandage. However, in reality
a study of requirement capture and new their NPD process does not follow formal
product development within an organization. stages. For example, in theory, the project
The Bandage Group was founded by an teams have responsibility for preparing
entrepreneur in the 1950s, when he business plans, forecasts, and design stages
developed ideas to market tubular bandage as part of the NPD process. The information
(Barnes et al., 2000). Since the 1970s, the fed into the NPD committee from the project
group has developed its international teams should then allow the committee to
network and their product has been make go/kill decisions at the each stage-
expanded, with acquisition and development gate. In realty, the stage-gate process is not
of associated healthcare products, covering followed at Bandage. Rather, it is viewed as
several major therapy fields, and continence largely subjective and emotive process
care (Barnes et al., 2000). However, the (Barnes et al., 2000).
new product development at Bandage is not
formal. This case study shows how different
the theory and reality of new product
development may be.
Although many companies individually 4.7.2. Major Success Factors for NPD
undertake new product development,
companies can group together to enhance Based on the four main factors, Ciappei and
competition. Montebelluna is located in Christian (2005) proposed 17 hypotheses
Northeast in Italy and has the largest cluster and attained three major results that provide
of sport shoe companies in the world. This a positive influence on new product success
region is known for privately held small in the sport shoe industry:
sport shoe companies, who are innovative in
design and styling. (1) Team approach: A systematic use of
NPD teams is required, but not
Ciappei and Christian (2005) researched enough to differentiate between the
main success factors engrained in the new top performers and the other
product development practices of Italian companies. Although companies
sport shoe companies in the Montebelluna need to adopt a team approach for
cluster. They surveyed 20 companies out of NPD to survive, it alone does not
420 companies located in the Montebelluna lead to success (Ciappei &
cluster in Italy. Mean annual sales for the Christian, 2005). However, in
surveyed companies were 28 million Euros order to accomplish high levels of
Article Designation: Scholarly 21 JTATM
Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005
new product success, the NPD team related to use of technical sport
must not be simply multi-functional. shoes, and to closely contact one of
The most effective NPD teams the main sources of product
include representatives of many innovation (Ciappei et al., 2005).
functions and also customers or lead
users. According to PDMA, “Lead (3) Technology: It is very critical for
users are users for whom finding a sport shoe manufacturers to use
solution to one of their consumer advanced information and
needs is so important that they have communication technologies
modified a current product or including computer-aided
invented a new product to solve the technologies because the
need themselves because they have technologies reduce costs and time
not found a supplier who can solve for new product development
it for them” (PDMA, 2005). The (Ciappei et al., 2005).
NPD team must then be wide open
to put together the valuable Ciappei and Christian (2005) finally
contribution of external sources of suggested, “Sports shoe (and other clothing
innovation and knowledge (Ciappei and apparatus) manufacturers that want to
et al., 2005). improve their NPD capability should
proactively develop close relationships with
(2) Customer Orientation: The their customers, not just for pushing their
involvement of customers at diverse sales, or for communicating their brand
stages of new product development image, but most of all to better understand
process encourages sport shoe the customer needs, to absorb their
manufacturers to directly bring in knowledge and combine it with that of their
their preferences, limiting employees, to be ready to catch early and
distortions and filtering effects weak signs of new sports, emerging needs
related to market research and data and trends, and to monitor innovating ideas
analysis (Ciappei et al., 2005). In that lead users might be developing” (p. 36).
order to effectively enhance new
product success, a company should 5. Future of New Product Development
integrate lead users into the process,
as it contributes to the anticipation Urban et al. (1993) have introduced the
of requirements that will eventually critical success factors that have
be shared by the mass market, to characterized the new -product development
more easily recognize the problems changes in emphasis over time (Table 3).
Source: Urban, G. L. & Hauser, J. R. (1993). Design and Marketing of New Products (2nd ed.).
New Jersey: Prentice-Hall. p. 664.
5.1. Future of NPD in Textile and Apparel Another issue is the development of
Industry innovative technology and the effective
adoption of technical changes to be
Global competition in the textile and apparel competitive in the global textile and apparel
industry has become more intense due, in industry. The product development
part, to the changes in regulation of world structure has been improved through the
trade. To compete and survive in the future adoption of integrated computer systems,
of textiles and apparel, firms will need to be where all functions are capable of being
innovative in new product development, accessed and using all data on a real time
while reducing cycle times and cutting costs. basis (Senanayake & Little, 2001). The new
Indeed, in a time competitive environment, technology and technical advances will
companies will be most successful if their enable retailers and consumers to take a
development times are shorter and if their proactive role in the product development
products are generated faster than its process. Additionally, the improved
competitors (Filippini, Salmaso, & technologies including CAD/CAM
Tessarolo, 2004). More textile and apparel technologies are expected to allow faster
companies have been forming strategic response to the customers’ requirements at a
alliances in order to reduce the time and lower cost.
improve flexibility and responsiveness
(Senanayake & Little, 2001). These Governments are taking an active role in
strategic alliances also relate to the supporting new product development
effectiveness of innovation strategies initiatives. For examples, the government of
(Faems, Looy, & Debackere, 2005). Hong Kong has challenged its industries to
American Fibers and Yarns Company, for implement innovative product development
example, have had the strategic alliances efforts with the following foci:
with their suppliers to develop innovative
technology for the product lines and join 1) materials technology to produce
suppliers to help them bring new innovative and novel fibers, fabrics,
technologies to market (Rodie, 2004). and related product treatment and
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