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• 2mm needles
• 4 stitch markers (to better see where to add stitches)
• 30cm of yarn in a contrasting color
• yarn needle
• sewing needle to sew studs
• sock yarn (fingering weight)
• 2 5mm studs
• matching sewing thread
You can find a tutorial here for instance. You can use other styles of increases,
according to the effect you want to get from the raglan.
You will need two strands of yarn, to knit the arms while the body is waiting. If
you just have one ball and you can't find its tail, make a small ball of around 15m
and put it aside for knitting the arms.
• 3 first rows: 1/1 ribbing: (k1,p1) repeat from ( to ) until the end.
• row 4: purl: p5, place marker, p4, place marker, p7, place marker, p4,
place marker. p4.
• row 5: (knit until marker, m1r, slip marker on the right needle, k1, m1l)
repeat from ( to ), knit to end. You have added 8 stitches in total. (32
stitches)
Thread the yarn of contrasting color onto the yarn needle, and use it to keep the
stitches corresponding to the body waiting while you knit the arms.
• With a new strand of yarn, knit both arms in stockinette, until the desired
length (around 5,5cm from the first row for a full arm length)
• Starting on the wrong side, finish with 3 rows of 1/1 ribbing.
• Cast-off. Keep around 30cm of thread before cutting the yarn, in order to
sew the sleeve later.
Body:
• Starting with the right back: k10, k2tog (last stitch from right back with
first stitch from front), k18, k2tog (last stitch from front with first stitch
from left back), k10.
• Continue in stockinette stitch until the desired length (for a hip-length
sweater, knit 2 cm from the underarm).
• Starting on wrong side, knit 3 rows in ribbing 1/1. Cast off.
Finishing:
Close the arms by sewing the edges 1 stitch from each side. Sew the studs on the
back, one on the top, one on the middle of the sweater. Hide the thread ends.