Fashion Transparency Index 2020

FASHION
TRANSPARENCY
INDEX
2020 EDITION
A review of 250 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers
ranked according to how much they disclose about their social
and environmental policies, practices and impacts.
FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2020 01
CONTENTS
02 KEY FINDINGS 21 THE FINAL SCORES ACROSS THE 5 SECTIONS
04 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 22 Average scores across the sections
23 1. Policy & Commitments
07 ABOUT THIS REPORT 30 2. Governance
08 Why transparency matters 34 3. Traceability
09 What do we mean by transparency? 39 Case Studies
10 Purpose of the research 41 4. Know, Show, Fix
11 About the methodology 47 Viewpoint: Ben Vanpeperstraete, Human Rights Expert
12 Annual updates to the methodology 48 5. Spotlight Issues
13 Weighting of the scores 60 Viewpoint: Garment Worker Centre
14 How the research is conducted
15 How brands and retailers are selected 61 FINAL THOUGHTS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
16 A-Z of brands 62 Take Action on Transparency
62 Brands and Retailers
17 THE FINAL SCORES 62 Governments and Policymakers
18 A guide to the scoring 63 Citizens
19 The final scores 64 Thank You
20 Quick findings 65 ANNEX 1 References
66 ANNEX 2 Definitions & Abbreviations
67 Disclaimer
68 About Fashion Revolution
The content of this publication can in no way be taken to reflect the views of any of the funders of Fashion Revolution.
© Fashion Revolution CIC 2020. All rights reserved. This document is not to be copied or adapted without permission from Fashion Revolution CIC.
KEY FINDINGS
AVERAGE SCORE IN EACH SECTION
23%
overall average POLICY & GOVERNANCE TRACEABILITY KNOW, SHOW SPOTLIGHT
COMMITMENTS & FIX ISSUES
score across the 250
brands reviewed
Up 2 percentage points since 2019 (200 brands)

52% 29% 16% 17% 15%
Up 3 percentage points since 2017 (100 brands)
TOP 10 SCORES LOWEST SCORING TOP 10 MOVERS

IN 2020 (%) BRANDS IN 2020 (%) SINCE 2019
H&M (H&M Group) 73% Bally 0 Monsoon +23

C&A 70% Belle 0 Ermenegildo Zegna +22
Adidas/Reebok 69%
Elie Tahari 0 Sainsbury’s-TU Clothing +19
Esprit 64%
Heilan Home 0 Dressmann +17
Marks & Spencer 60%
Patagonia 60% Jessica Simpson 0 ASICS +15
Urban Outfitters /
The North Face / Max Mara 0 +15
Anthropologie
Timberland / Vans / 59%
Mexx 0 Clarks +14
Wrangler (VF Corp)
Puma 57% Pepe Jeans 0 Pimkie +13
ASOS 55% Tom Ford 0 River Island +13
Converse / Jordan / Nike 55%
(Nike Inc.) Youngor 0 Russell Athletic +13
HIGHEST SCORING
BRANDS SINCE 2017
Percentage of brands
publishing suppliers lists
2020 2019
2017 2018 2019 2020 H&M (H&M Group) 73% Adidas/Reebok 64%
(100 brands) (150 brands) (200 brands) (250 brands)
C&A 70% Patagonia 64%
First-tier manufacturers
Adidas/Reebok 69% Esprit 62%
40%
Esprit 64% H&M (H&M Group) 61%
35%
Patagonia / Marks & Spencer 60% C&A 60%
37%
32% 2018 2017
Adidas/Reebok 58% Adidas/Reebok 49%

Processing facilities
24% Puma 56% Marks & Spencer 48%
19% H&M (H&M Group) 55% H&M (H&M Group) 48%
18% Esprit 54% Puma 46%
14% Gap 54% Gap 46%
Suppliers of raw materials
5%
7%
25%
overall average score
28%
32%
across the 198 brands across the 148 brands across the 98 brands
1%
reviewed in 2019 and 2020 reviewed since 2018 reviewed since 2017
0%
Up 3 percentage points Up 7 percentage points Up 12 percentage points
since 2019 since 2018 since 2017
EXECUTIVE
SUMMARY
About the Fashion Transparency High street brands lead on The majority of brands and Participation in the Fashion
Index 2020 transparency but luxury brands retailers lack transparency on Transparency Index is influencing
are making progress social and environmental issues brands to disclose more social
We are pleased to deliver our fifth annual and environmental information
Fashion Transparency Index 2020, which H&M (H&M Group) is the highest scoring More than half (54%) of brands score
reviews and ranks 250 of the world’s brand this year at 73% of the 250 possible 20% or less. However, there are fewer Brands that participated in the Fashion
largest fashion brands and retailers points, followed by C&A at 70%, Adidas low-scoring brands this year compared Transparency Index 2020 (by completing
according to how much they disclose and Reebok at 69% and Esprit at 64%. to 2019. 28% of brands score 10% or less, our questionnaire) have achieved an
about their social and environmental compared to 36% of brands last year. overall average score of 35% (compared
The overall average score among the 250
policies, practices and impacts. to 23% overall average among all 250
brands is 23% (up from 21% among the
Of the new brands added to the Index brands.) Non-participating brands
200 brands in 2019).
This year we reviewed an additional in 2020, 15 brands score 5% or less, achieved an overall average score of 11%.
50 brands and retailers, including including Canada Goose, Fashion Nova,
Gucci is the highest scoring luxury brand
major brands from Australia, India, New Pepe Jeans and DKNY. Every brand in the top 20% of scores in
at 48%, up from 40% in 2019, and is the
Zealand, Norway, Poland, South Africa 2020 and all brands scoring above 40%
only brand to score 100% on Policy and
and Switzerland for the first time. We Brands that disclose nothing at all participated in the Fashion Transparency
Commitments. The other Kering Group
also added in several e-retailers this include Swiss luxury brand Bally, Index this year.
brands we reviewed come in just behind
year, including Fashion Nova (USA), Koovs ready-to-wear brand Elie Tahari, Jessica
Gucci, including Balenciaga (47%), Saint
(India) and Pretty Little Thing (UK). Simpson’s eponymous brand, Dutch high However, the scores of approximately
Laurent (47%) and Bottega Veneta (46%)
street brand Mexx and Chinese retailers 30 brands have barely changed from
The Fashion Transparency Index Belle, Heilan Home and Youngor. 2017 to 2020, including Gap, Uniqlo and
Ermenegildo Zegna has become the
comprises 220 indicators covering a wide Walmart, among others. This means they
first luxury brand to publish a detailed
range of social and environmental topics have not taken significant steps towards
supplier list. However, Hermès has
such as animal welfare, biodiversity, increasing transparency within the past
disclosed many of its owned and
chemicals, climate, due diligence, three years, compared to other brands.
operated manufacturers and suppliers
forced labour, freedom of association, for many years. Meanwhile, Balenciaga,
gender equality, living wages, purchasing Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Saint Laurent
practices, supplier disclosure, waste and have also published a handful of raw
recycling, working conditions and more. material suppliers this year. We hope to
see more luxury brands follow their lead.
Brands continue to publish more Information dumping is an Encouraging progress made on Continued lack of transparency
about their policies than how they ongoing problem disclosing supplier lists on living wages for workers in
implement them the supply chain
Information and data dumping almost 40% of brands (101 out of 250) are
As in previous editions of the Index, brands seems like a deliberate strategy by publishing their manufacturers (up As in previous editions of the Index, the
disclose more about their policies than some of the brands. For quite a few from 35% in 2019). 24% of brands (60 majority of brands and retailers publish
they do about how they put those policies brands, we have found information out of 250) are publishing some of their little information about their efforts, if
into action. Brands disclose comparatively repeated over and over again across processing facilities and/or mills (up from any, to improve pay and achieve living
less about the outcomes, results and different web pages and documents, 19% in 2019). 7% of brands (18 out of 250) wages in the supply chain. Less than
progress they have made to address social often with slightly different terminology are publishing some of their raw material a quarter (23%) of brands disclose the
and environmental issues in the business but no substantive difference. suppliers (up from 5% in 2019). company's approach to achieving the
and across the supply chain. Sometimes brands use a large amount payment of living wages to workers in
of filler words and fluffy explanations We have seen the overall average score the supply chain.
This is illustrated by the fact that the and details that obscure what on traceability increase to 16%, up from
overall average score among brands in information or data is actually relevant 12% in 2019 and 8% in 2017. Only 5 brands (2%) publish a time-bound,
the Policy and Commitments section and useful to external stakeholders. measurable roadmap or strategy for
is 52% while all other sections’ average We have even found instances of Next year, we hope to see 50% (or more) how they will achieve a living wage for
scores are less than 30%. conflicting facts and statistics. of brands publishing a supplier list and all workers across their supply chains.
more brands disclosing their processing Meanwhile, only 5 brands (2%) publish
The good news is that brands are For whatever reason this happens, facilities, mills, tanneries and raw data on the percentage above the
publishing more policies than they were it makes it extremely difficult for material suppliers further down the tiers minimum wage rate workers are paid in
in previous years (52% section average people to make sense of what relevant of the supply chain. their supply chains.
score in 2020, compared to 48% in 2019), information is actually disclosed by
but brands continue to lack transparency brands. It can be counterproductive to Also, look later in the report for four case This is an urgent issue for so many
when it comes to the types of information transparency and accountability. Not studies we have highlighted showing how workers in the textile supply chain who
that enables external stakeholders everyone has the hours and days it can journalists and workers rights organisations struggle to afford life’s basic necessities.
to hold them to account, e.g. detailed sometimes take to decipher what brands are using supplier lists to address and While it is a complex issue to solve,
supplier lists, audit results, wage data, are actually disclosing and how to use remedy poor working conditions in the without more collective action and greater
climate impact data and so on. this information in an effective way. supply chains of major brands. transparency from major brands and
retailers, it will be a very long time before
The brands that communicate best are
workers are paid decent and fair wages.
those that set out what they are doing in
a succinct, logical yet still detailed way.
They also avoid using difficult industry
jargon or fluffy storytelling devices that
don’t actually tell you much.
Most brands do not disclose any Coronavirus is casting a spotlight The climate crisis is an Taking action on these findings
information about their on overconsumption increasingly important issue for
purchasing practices brands but more transparency is The Fashion Transparency Index has
As people are forced to stay at home and needed on what brands are doing enabled us to have constructive
Responsible purchasing practices retail stores are closed around the world, to reduce impacts conversations with some of the world’s
go hand-in-hand with the ability of the demand for clothing has plummeted largest fashion brands and retailers about
suppliers to pay workers adequate since the start of the year. It is causing 78% of major brands publish a company what they can do to be more transparent.
and reliable wages. Yet, on the whole, people to reassess and reprioritise what policy on energy use and carbon
brands disclose alarmingly little about they spend money on. emissions (up from 72% last year), while We believe transparency is the first step
what they’re doing to be good business 52% publish a supplier policy on this topic in holding these big brands to account
partners to their suppliers. Francesca Muston, fashion director for (up from 49% last year). for the human rights and environmental
global trend forecaster WGSN, told journalist impacts of their business practices.
Only 11% of brands explain how they Marc Bain that fashion’s frantic turnover of However, only 16% of brands publish
ensure that labour costs are ring-fenced trends could slow down, while companies Science Based Targets, which means We will continue to use the Index to
and non-negotiable in price negotiations, start to focus on delivering fewer, better their environmental goals are aligned measure brands’ annual progress
and only 6% of brands publish a policy quality products to remain profitable. with the Paris Agreement’s aim to limit on transparency and to push them
to pay suppliers within 60 days. global heating to below 2°C above pre- harder and faster towards taking greater
This is why it is interesting to see that so few industrial levels. responsibility for their policies and actions
The coronavirus pandemic brands currently publish data about their on social and environmental issues.
is proving why transparency annual production volume and the brands And, only 16% of brands publish annual
is so vital that do report staggering numbers. For carbon emissions produced within We invite you to read the rest of
example, Inditex (the parent company that their supply chains — where the highest the report for a deeper dive into
If major brands and retailers are owns Bershka, Massimo Dutti, Pull&Bear, proportion of carbon is emitted across the 2020 results.
publishing information about their Stradivarius and Zara) produced more than the lifecycle of a garment.
business values, who their suppliers are, 1.6 billion items last year.
what supply chain policies are in place,
how they do business with suppliers Furthermore, several media outlets
and their purchasing practices, then report that dozens of brands have
“The hidden and

stakeholders can hold them to account stopped taking deliveries while clothing
for exactly the type of situation unfolding is piling up in warehouses during the
now where major brands are stopping lockdown. We wonder what will happen
forgotten dwell in the

and delaying payments and cancelling to all of these clothes considering that
orders from their suppliers with little our research shows only 27% of brands
regard for how this will affect the publish information about the steps they
livelihoods of workers across the
supply chain.
are taking to reduce the amount of waste
created before clothes hit the shelves, and
only 18% of brands explain what they are
shadows of our clothes.”
doing to develop circular solutions that
enable textile-to-textile recycling. Carry Somers - co-founder, Fashion Revolution
1
ABOUT THIS
REPORT
WHY
TRANSPARENCY
MATTERS
Lack of transparency costs lives Brands and retailers may work with Consumers want to know
hundreds or even thousands of factories #WhoMadeMyClothes
When Rana Plaza collapsed at any given time – and that is just the
suppliers that cut, sew and assemble Business of Fashion recently wrote,
seven years ago in Bangladesh,
our garments in the final stage of “Fashion companies must come
killing and injuring thousands
production. There are many suppliers to terms with the fact that a more
of garment workers, people distrusting consumer expects full
and facilities further down the chain that
had to dig through the rubble weave, dye, print and finish fabrics, spin transparency across the value chain…
looking for clothing labels in yarn, and farms that grow fibres used in consumers have become more active
order to figure out which brands our clothing. in scrutinising the brands they do
were producing clothes in one business with.”
of the five garment factories Since Rana Plaza, tragic and fatal
factory fires and accidents, poor When consumers are equipped with
operating in the building.
and exploitative working conditions, more — and better quality, credible
pollution and environmental — information about the social and
In some cases, it took weeks for brands
degradation remain rife throughout the environmental impacts of the clothes
to determine why their labels were found
global fashion supply chain. they buy, they are able to make better
in the ruins and what sort of purchasing
informed decisions. As a result,
agreements they had with those suppliers.
Simply put, if we don’t know where transparency builds trust in the brands
This is because the vast majority of
and by whom our clothes are being they buy and a lack of transparency
today’s fashion brands and retailers do
made, then it is difficult to for relevant can damage brands’ reputation.
not own their manufacturing and supplier
stakeholders to work together to fix
facilities, making it challenging to control
problems before they end in tragedy.
and monitor building and fire safety,
working conditions and environmental [TOP] 2014, Relatives of those killed in
management across a highly globalised the collapse of Rana Plaza rally for
changes in working conditions,
and fragmented supply chain. Andrew Biraj for Reuters.
[BOTTOM] 2019, A mourner of a victim

of the New Delhi Factory Fire, Saumya
Khandelwal for The New York Times
WHAT DO
WE MEAN BY
TRANSPARENCY?
Transparency means public If done well, transparency should Transparency is a tool for
disclosure enable accountability change, not the end goal
TRANSPARENCY
[noun] Transparency is more than just sharing Transparency enables others to scrutinise Transparency is not a silver bullet
the good work that brands are doing. Too what companies say they are doing that will solve the many complex
The public disclosure of credible, often we see brands boasting about their to address human rights and protect and deeply systemic problems in
comprehensive and comparable business values and positive progress the environment. It means that there is the global fashion industry. However,
data and information about without sharing much about the things information available for which others transparency provides a window into
fashion’s supply chains, business that go wrong, the systemic challenges (consumers, investors, lawmakers, the conditions in which our clothes are
they face and the actual honest results of journalists, NGOs, trade unions, workers being made and allows us to address
practices and the impacts of these
their efforts to protect human rights and themselves) can hold brands and retailers them more quickly and collaboratively.
practices on workers, communities
the environment. This can come across to account for their policies and practices,
and the environment. as greenwashing. especially when things go wrong like it did Transparency isn’t just for
that day at Rana Plaza. transparency’s sake. The information
It is also not enough to disclose crucial disclosed by companies needs to
supply chain information internally or Being transparent doesn’t mean that be accessible and detailed enough
selectively to certain stakeholders only. companies are behaving in a responsible to take action upon. What each of us
This is how brands have operated for a and sustainable manner. A brand may does with this public disclosure, how
very long time, yet widespread abuses publish a considerable amount of we use it to drive positive change, is
remain endemic across the industry. True information about its policies, practices what will count most. In this sense, we
transparency requires public disclosure. and impacts and still be contributing see transparency as the first crucial
to poor working conditions and step towards systemic and structural
environmental degradation. On the other change in the global fashion industry.
hand, brands may be doing excellent work
behind the scenes to make improvements,
but if they don’t share this information
publicly then no one may know about it
and this learning cannot be shared more
widely with others who may find it useful.
PURPOSE
OF THE
RESEARCH
Fashion Revolution has been Although it hasn’t necessarily been
campaigning for greater We designed the Index to: our intention, participating brands and
transparency throughout the retailers have told us that the Index transparency
• Compare the level of is a useful exercise for them to take
fashion industry since 2013 stock of what they are disclosing and
transparency among the
and our #WhoMadeMyClothes world’s largest fashion brands where they have room to improve.
social media campaign and retailers; accountability
has inspired millions of This is not a shopping guide.
• Incentivise major brands and The Fashion Transparency Index is not
people to take action.
retailers to disclose a greater an indication of whether particular
To build upon this question, our
level of credible, comparable
and detailed information
brands are ‘good’ or ‘bad’. We are not
recommending or endorsing any of
change
community asked us to help them make
year-on-year by leveraging the brands and retailers reviewed,
sense of the social and environmental
their competitive tendencies; regardless of their scores. The purpose
information being shared by major
is to understand how much social and
brands and retailers.
• Analyse trends in environmental information is shared
transparency across the by the world’s largest brands, to drive
Our community wants to know what
global fashion industry; greater disclosure from them and to
information they should expect to
use this information to hold them to
find disclosed by major brands, what
• Inform our own understanding account when needed.
it means, how to put the information
of what good transparency
they find into a wider context and how
looks like and use that
to make use of this information to
learning to help shape our
drive change. We created the Fashion
ongoing campaigning efforts.
Transparency Index for this purpose.
ABOUT THE
METHODOLOGY
The Fashion Transparency Index uses a The methodology was designed in 2017 through a four-month consultative process.
ratings methodology to benchmark the We relied upon the pro-bono input of a diverse group of industry experts and
public disclosure made by brands and
retailers across five key areas:
stakeholders from academia, the trade union movement, civil society organisations,
socially responsible investment, business consulting and journalism. Among others, To explore
• Social and environmental policy
this includes:
the detailed
and commitments
• Governance
• Dr. Mark Anner, Director of Centre for
Global Workers’ Rights at Penn State
• Aruna Kashyap, Human Rights Watch methodology
• Kate Larsen, SupplyESChange
• Supply chain traceability University
Initiative click here.
• Know, show and fix (supply chain • Neil Brown, Liontrust Asset • Dr. Alessandra Mezzadri, SOAS,
due diligence and remediation) Management PLC University of London
• Spotlight issues (working • Professor Ian Cook, University of • Katie Shaw, Open Apparel Registry
conditions, consumption, product/ Exeter
material composition and climate) • Francois Souchet, Ellen MacArthur
• Subindu Garkhel, Fairtrade Foundation We recognise that the methodology
Foundation is not perfect and can always
Brands receive points for information • Joe Sutcliffe, Advisor - Dignified
that has been publicly disclosed on • Christina Hajagos-Clausen, be improved. We welcome any
Work, CARE International
the brand or parent company website, IndustriALL Global Union feedback on how to make it better:
through self-published annual reports • Ben Vanpeperstraete, human rights transparency@fashionrevolution.org
• Kristian Hardiman, Good On You expert
and via third parties where there is a
link between the company’s website
and the third party disclosure.
ANNUAL
UPDATES TO THE
METHODOLOGY
In consultation with these experts, each Changes to the methodology may affect Finally, we would like to stress that the Index
year we update the methodology in order year-on-year comparability of the does not offer an in-depth analysis of the quality,
to clarify language, select new annual results. Where brands may have scored authenticity or accuracy of brands' policies,
Spotlight Issues and ensure that it stays one or two percentage points up or procedures, performance and progress in any given
current and acts as a driver of industry down compared to last year this could area. Verification of claims made by brands and
best practice on transparency. be due to changes in the methodology. retailers is beyond the scope of this research. We
There are other notable limits to this hope you use this information to query their claims.
The methodology is also based upon type of desk-based research. Human
alignment with existing international error is entirely possible. Some brands
standards and benchmarks such as publish annual reports that span +400
the UN Guiding Principles and SDGs, pages, with footnotes and appendices. How we calculate the findings:
OECD Due Diligence Guidelines, ILO It is quite possible our research team
conventions, ACT, Know The Chain, IHRB (or even brands themselves) may have • All scores have been calculated to two
• All averages in this report represent the
Responsible Recruitment Toolkit and the missed relevant disclosure. Also, the data decimal places (in the complete data set)
mean.
and then rounded to the nearest whole
Transparency Pledge. captures a moment in time and is only as • Where a score may have been rounded to
percentage point (what you will read in
current as of 31st March 2020. Brands may this report). the nearest percentage point in previous
In the 2020 methodology, there are 220 disclose or retract information at a later editions, we are calculating the year-on-
indicators. Across 250 brands, this means date. However, we try our best to be as • For the most part, year-on-year year difference according to the rounded
differences in scores are described as figures rather than to the exact decimal
we have researched and analysed 55,000 thorough, meticulous, objective and fair
the change in percentage points, which points. For example, where the average
individual data points. The weighting of as possible. means the actual amount of change, score in a particular section is 17.74%
the scores is intended to emphasise rather than the percent, which means we have rounded this up to 18%. If a
increasing levels of detailed and This is why we urge you to focus on the the rate of change (unless explicitly previous year’s report the average score
granular disclosure. In other words, we ranges in which brands score rather than stated otherwise). For instance, if a in that section was 12.41% we rounded it
reward disclosure that enables external their individual scores. The ranges reveal brand scored 30% in one year and 45% down to 12% in the report. Therefore, the
patterns of industry disclosure rather than in the next, we are usually reporting that year-on-year difference is technically
stakeholders to meaningfully use that
the brand increased by 15 percentage 5.33 percentage points, but if we go
information to hold brands to account; precise measurements.
points (45-30=15) rather than saying the by the nearest rounded figures it is 6
for example, supplier lists, audit findings, brand increased by a 50% rate of change percentage points.
wage data, etc. (45/30=1.5).
WEIGHTING
OF THE
SCORES
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
POLICY &
GOVERNANCE TRACEABILITY KNOW, SHOW & FIX SPOTLIGHT ISSUES
COMMITMENTS
This section explores brands’ Here we look at who on In this section we look for Here we review what brands In this final section we explore
social and environmental the executive board has brands to publish supplier lists disclose about their due what brands are doing
policies for both their own responsibility for social and at three levels: manufacturing, diligence processes, how to address forced labour,
employees and workers in environmental performance, processing facilities and mills, they assess suppliers gender equality, living wages,
the supply chain, how these how this is implemented, how and raw materials. We also against their policies, what freedom of association, waste,
policies are implemented, social and environmental look for extra details such as are the results of these circularity, overproduction, use
how the company prioritises improvements are linked to supplier address, number of assessments, what do they of more sustainable materials,
issues, what goals it has in employee, CEO and supplier workers, gender breakdown, do when problems are microplastics, deforestation,
place and if they’re reporting performance, and whether number of migrant workers, found, how workers can file climate change and water use.
annual progress. the relevant department and union representation and complaints and how these
person in charge can be easily when the list was last updated. are addressed.
contacted by the public.
WEIGHTING 18.8% 4.8% 31.6% 25.2% 19.6%

(%)
HOW THE RESEARCH

RESEARCH IS PROCESS
CONDUCTED
The research is led by Fashion August – November 2019 December 2019 – January 2020
Revolution’s Global Policy Director Methodology updates: Industry research and Research the selected brands and
Sarah Ditty; Project Manager, Ilishio consultation process informs how we select new retailers: Our researchers review each brand
Lovejoy; and Project Coordinator, Sienna Spotlight Issues, devise new indicators and tweak and pre-populate their questionnaire with
Somers – with support from Fashion any others. The brand questionnaire is prepared. evidence of the relevant public disclosure
Revolution’s co-founder and Global During this time, we also research and select the and award them preliminary points. At this
Operations Director, Carry Somers. additional 50 brands and retailers to be reviewed. time, brands are notified of their inclusion in
this year’s Index and invited to participate.
Additional research was carried out by:
• Nicky Allan Mid-March Mid-February Early February

• Clara Buckens Brands return completed Brands receive questionnaires Data quality assurance
• Altaire Cambata questionnaires: Brands that to complete: Brands are given check: Each indicator is
• Ysabl Dobles choose to participate return approximately one month to checked by at least two
• Rachel Hartley their completed questionnaires. fill in the gaps on their brand different lead researchers
• Michelle Lai Our research team reviews questionnaires, alerting us to for accuracy and
• Lisa Schneider responses and awards additional information our researchers consistency across all
• Lian Sing points where sufficient may not have found. 250 brand questionnaires.
• Manon Thomas disclosure has been made.
Late March Early to mid-April

Questionnaire responses reviewed and Data is compiled, analysis completed and report
quality assurance check: The research prepared: Data from each brand questionnaire is
team conducts several rounds of data collated into one large complete dataset, which is used
quality assurance checks before finalising to analyse final results, determine year-on-year progress
each questionnaire and the scoring. and pull out interesting findings. Brands are notified of
their final scores and progress shortly before publication.
HOW BRANDS AND

RETAILERS ARE
H OW M A N Y B R A N D S
PA R T I C I PAT E D T H I S Y E A R ?
SELECTED 45% 53%

did not respond of brands completed
and returned a
The 250 brands and retailers have We have chosen to list brand questionnaire
been chosen on the basis of their names in this report rather than by
annual turnover, over $400 million parent company or group because
USD, and representing a spread consumers will be most familiar
of market segments including with brand names. However, please
high street, luxury, sportswear, note that for some of the brands
accessories, footwear and denim that are part of a group, such as
from across Europe, North America, H&M (H&M Group) Group, Inditex, PVH
South America, Asia and Africa. and others, their scores reflect all
brands in the group regardless of
We relied upon publicly available whether they appear in our report.
financial information to research
brands and retailers. Some This year 53% of brands participated
companies are privately held and by returning a completed
do not publish financial records. questionnaire. We include brands in
This means that some very large the Index regardless of whether they
brands are not on our radar. When participate or not. However, brands
several brands are owned by a
large parent company and they
that participate typically receive
higher scores than they would
2%
do not disclose turnover by brand, otherwise because they are able to declined the opportunity
identify relevant disclosure that our to complete the questionnaire
we make an educated guess as to
the biggest selling brand(s) in the researchers may have missed.
group to include in our research.
Just a quick note: we often use the term 'brands' as shorthand for both brands and retailers.
A-Z OF BRANDS  = participated in brand questionarire
Abercrombie & Fitch (Abercrombie & Fitch)  Chloé (Richemont) Hanes (Hanesbrands Inc.) Max Mara Sandro (SMCP)
Adidas (Adidas Group)  Claire's Heilan Home (Helian Group Co.) Merrell (Wolverine World Wide, Inc.) Skechers
Aeropostale Clarks  Helly Hansen (Canadian Tire Corporation)  Meters/bonwe Speedo (Pentland Group) 
ALDI Nord (ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG) COACH (Tapestry, Inc.)  HEMA  Mexx Sports Direct
ALDI SOUTH (ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG)  Cole Haan Hermès Michael Kors (Capri Holdings Limited) Steve Madden
ALDO (The Aldo Group Inc.)  Columbia Sportswear  Hollister Co. (Abercrombie and Fitch)  Miu Miu (Prada Group)  Stradivarius (Inditex) 
Amazon (Amazon.com, Inc.)  Converse (Nike, Inc.)  Hudson's Bay (HBC)  Mizuno  Superdry 
American Eagle  Cortefiel (Tendam)  Hugo Boss  Moncler Takko
ANTA Costco Intimissimi (Calzedonia Group) Monoprix (Groupe Casino) Target 
Anthropologie (URBN)  Cotton On (Cotton On Group) Ito-Yokado (Seven & I Holdings Co) Monsoon  Target Australia (Wesfarmers) 
Aritzia  Debenhams  J.Crew  Morrisons  Tchibo 
Armani (Giorgio Armani S.p.A)  Decathlon (Association Familiale Mulliez)  Jack & Jones (BESTSELLER)  MRP  Ted Baker 
ASDA (Walmart Inc.)  Desigual  JCPenney Muji (Ryohin Keikaku Co.)  Tesco 
ASICS  Diane Von Furstenberg JD Sports (Pentland Group)  Neiman Marcus Tezenis (Calzedonia Group)
ASOS  Dick's Sporting Goods  Jessica Simpson (Sequentional Brands Group) New Balance  The Children's Place
Balenciaga (Kering)  Diesel (OTB Group) Jil Sander (Onward Holdings) New Look  The North Face (VF Corporation) 
Bally (Shandong Ruyi Group) Dillards Jockey New York & Company The Warehouse
Banana Republic (Gap Inc.)  Dior (LVMH)  Joe Fresh (Loblaw Company Ltd.) New Yorker Timberland (VF Corporation) 
BCBGMAXAZRIA (Centric Brands)  Disney (The Walt Disney Group) John Lewis  Next  TJ Maxx (TJX)
Beanpole (Samsung C&T) DKNY (G-III Apparel Group) Jordan (Nike, Inc.)  Nike (Nike, Inc.)  Tod's
BeLLE Dolce & Gabbana JustFab (TechStyle Fashion Group) Nine West Tom Ford
Bershka (Inditex)  Dr. Martens (Permira)  Kate Spade (Tapestry, Inc.)  Nordstrom  Tom Tailor 
Big Bazaar - ffb (Future Group) Dressmann (VARNER)  Kathmandu  Old Navy (Gap Inc.)  Tommy Bahama (Oxford Industries, Inc.)
Big W (Woolworths Group)  DSW (Designer Brands) Kaufland OTTO (Otto Group) Tommy Hilfiger (PVH) 
Billabong (Boardriders) Eddie Bauer (Golden Gate Capital) KiK  OVS  Topman (Arcadia Group) 
Bloomingdale's (Macy's Inc.) El Corte Inglés  Kmart (Sears Holdings) Patagonia  Topshop (Arcadia Group) 
Bonprix (Otto Group)  Elie Tahari Kmart Australia (Wesfarmers)  Pepe Jeans TOPVALU COLLECTION (AEON)
boohoo (boohoo group plc) Ermenegildo Zegna  Kohl's Pimkie Tory Burch
Bosideng Esprit  Koovs Prada (Prada Group)  Triumph
Bottega Veneta (Kering)  Express K-Way (BasicNet) PrettyLittleThing (boohoo group plc) Truworths
Brooks Brothers Falabella  La Redoute (Galeries Lafayette Group) Primark (Associated British Foods plc)  UGG (Deckers Brands)
Brooks Sports (Berkshire Hathaway)  Famous Footwear (Caleres) Lacoste (Maus Frères)  Prisma (S Group)  Under Armour
Brunello Cucinelli Fanatics (Kynetic) Lands' End Pull&Bear (Inditex)  Uniqlo (Fast Retailing) 
Buckle Fashion Nova Levi Strauss & Co  Puma  United Arrows 
Burberry  Fendi (LVMH)  Lidl  Quiksilver (Boardriders) United Colors of Benetton 
Burlington Fila Lindex (Stockmann Group)  Ralph Lauren  Urban Oufitters (URBN) 
C&A  Fjällräven (Fenix Outdoor)  Li-Ning Reebok (Adidas AG)  Valentino
Calvin Klein (PVH)  Foot Locker L.L. Bean REI Co-op  Van Heusen (PVH) 
Calzedonia (Calzedonia Group) Forever 21 LOFT (Ascena Retail Group Inc.)  Reliance Trends (Reliance Retail) Vans (VF Corporation) 
Canada Goose Foschini (TFG)  Longchamp Reserved (LPP)  Vero Moda (BESTSELLER) 
Carhartt Fossil (Fossil Group, Inc.)  Louis Vuitton (LVMH)  REVOLVE Versace (Capri Holdings)
Carolina Herrera (Puig) Free people (URBN)  Lululemon  River Island  Very (The Very Group) 
CAROLL (Vivarte) Furla  Macy's (Macy's Inc.) Ross Dress for Less Victoria's Secret (L Brands)
Carrefour Gap (Gap Inc.)  Mammut (Conzzeta AG)  Roxy (Boardriders) Walmart (Walmart Inc.) 
Cato Fashions Gerry Weber Mango  Russell Athletic (Fruit of the Loom)  Woolworths (Woolworths Holdings Limited) 
CELINE (LVMH)  Gildan  Marc Jacobs (LVMH)  s.Oliver  Wrangler (VF Corporation) 
celio G-Star RAW  Marks & Spencer  Sainsbury’s-TU Clothing  Youngor
Champion (Hanesbrands Inc.) Gucci (Kering)  Marni (OTB Group) SAINT LAURENT (Kering)  Zalando 
Chanel GUESS Massimo Dutti (Inditex)  Saks Fifth Avenue (Hudson's Bay Company) Zara (Inditex) 
Chico's H&M (H&M Group)  Matalan  Salvatore Ferragamo  Zeeman 
2
THE FINAL
SCORES
To review full data
To access the complete
findings for individual
data set click here.
brands, visit wikirate.org
A GUIDE There are 250 total possible points. Final scores have been converted into
percentages and rounded to the nearest whole number. Please focus on the
TO THE SCORING range in which brands score rather than their individual scores as this gives
you a more accurate picture of trends in transparency across the industry.
0—5% 0—10% 11—20% 21—30% 31—40% 41—50% 51—60% 61—70% 71—80% 81—90% 91—100%
TRANSPARENCY
Brands scoring between Brands scoring between Brands scoring between Brands scoring between Brands scoring between Brands scoring 41-50% Brands scoring 51-60% Brands scoring 61-70% Brands scoring 71-80% No brands score above 80% but if they did these
0-5% are disclosing 5-10% are likely to be 11-20% are likely to be 21-30% are likely to be 31-40% are the brands are those who are most are disclosing all of the are disclosing all of the are disclosing all of the brands would be disclosing all of the information
nothing at all or a very publishing some policies publishing many policies publishing much more who are disclosing their likely to be publishing information already information already information already already described as well as publishing detailed
limited number of for both its employees for both employees and detailed information first tier manufacturers as more detailed supplier described in the other described in the other described in the other information about supplier assessment and
policies, which tend to be and suppliers. suppliers, some about their policies, well as detailed lists, many will be ranges and will be ranges and will be ranges and will be remediation findings for specific facilities. They
related to the brand's procedures and some procedures, governance, information about their publishing processing publishing detailed publishing detailed publishing detailed would also be sharing detailed supplier lists for at
Those closer to 10% are
hiring practices or local information about their social and environmental policies, procedures, facilities as well as supplier lists. These supplier lists, which supplier lists for least 95% of all suppliers from manufacturing right
more likely to be
community engagement supplier assessment and goals and supplier social and environmental manufacturers — in brands will be disclosing include manufacturers, manufacturers, down to raw materials . These brands would be
publishing a basic
activities. remediation processes. assessment and goals, governance, addition to detailed most human rights and processing facilities and processing facilities and mapping social and environmental impacts into
supplier code of conduct,
These brands will most remediation processes. supplier assessment and information about their environmental policies, some suppliers of raw suppliers of raw materials their financial business model and disclosing
some information about
likely not be publishing These brands may be remediation processes. policies, procedures, procedures, social and materials such as cotton, such as cotton, wool or ample data on their use of sustainable materials
their procedures and
supplier lists and won’t be publishing a basic list of These brands are also social and environmental environmental goals and wool or viscose. These viscose. These brands will and would provide sex-disaggregated data on job
some limited information
sharing much manufacturers only more likely to be goals, governance, information about their brands will also be be publishing detailed roles within their own operations and in the supply
about their supplier
information, if anything, containing the factory disclosing information on supplier assessments governance and due addressing most of the information about their chain. We would be able to find detailed information
assessment process.
about our Spotlight Issues: name and address. These a few of the Spotlight and remediation diligence processes. They Spotlight Issues explained due diligence processes about the company’s purchasing practices, the
forced labour, gender brands will not be sharing Issues such as gender processes and some will be publishing some in previous ranges as well and outcomes, supplier company’s approach and progress towards tackling
equality, living wages, information about the pay gap, use of more supplier assessment detailed information as production and waste assessments and modern slavery and living wages for workers in
freedom of association, outcomes of their supplier sustainable materials, findings. These brands are about the findings of their volumes, progress on remediation findings. their supply chain. These brands would be
waste, circularity, assessments or grievance textile waste and their also more likely to be supplier assessments. strategies to reduce waste These brands will be disclosing their carbon emissions, use of renewable
overproduction, use of channels. These brands carbon emissions at addressing the Spotlight These brands will be and use of virgin plastics, sharing comparatively energy and water footprint from their own
more sustainable will not widely be company level. Issues such as gender addressing many of the progress on sustainable more comprehensive and operations right down to raw material level.
materials, microplastics, disclosing information on equality, collective Spotlight Issues such as material use and more detailed information and
deforestation, climate the Spotlight Issues but bargaining, use of more forced labour, living detailed carbon and water data than any other
change and water use. may touch upon a few. sustainable materials, wages, collective use data. brands in the Index on the
textile waste, circularity, bargaining, gender Spotlight Issues.
and their carbon and equality, use of more
water footprint at sustainable materials,
company level. textile waste, circularity,
hazardous chemicals, and
their carbon and water
footprint at company level
and in the supply chain.
THE FINAL SCORES

0-5% 6-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-100%
Brooks Brothers 5 Buckle 10 Anthropologie 20 ALDI SOUTH 30 Clarks 40 Banana Republic 50 Marks & Spencer 60 C&A 70 H&M (H&M Group) 73
Cato Fashions 5 Dillards 10 Urban Outfitters 20 Big W 30 Monsoon 40 Gap 50 Patagonia 60 Adidas 69
Claire's 5 Dr. Martens 10 Carrefour 20 John Lewis 30 Uniqlo 40 Old Navy 50 The North Face 59 Reebok 69
Eddie Bauer 5 DSW 10 Chloé 20 Kathmandu 30 Champion 39 Lindex 50 Timberland 59 Esprit 64
Aeropostale 4 Furla 10 Otto 20 Vero Moda 30 Hanes 39 Gildan 49 Vans 59
Canada Goose 4 Gerry Weber 10 Superdry 20 Jack & Jones 30 Zalando 39 G-Star RAW 49 Wrangler 59
Jockey 4 Muji 10 Tod's 20 Under Armour 29 Primark 38 Dressmann 48 Puma 57
Justfab 4 Steve Madden 10 COACH 19 Columbia Sportswear 28 Topman 38 Gucci 48 ASOS 55
Tory Burch 4 Triumph 10 Kate Spade 19 El Corte Inglés 28 Topshop 38 Levi Strauss & Co 48 Converse 55
BCBGMAXAZRIA 3 Valentino 10 GUESS 19 Very 28 Target 37 New Balance 48 Jordan 55
Billabong 3 Armani 9 Hudson's Bay 19 Walmart 28 Burberry 36 Tchibo 48 Nike 55
Quicksilver 3 boohoo 9 Saks Fifth Avenue 19 Ermenegildo Zegna 27 Next 36 Sainsbury’s- 47 United Colors 55
3 9 36 TU Clothing 47 of Benetton
Roxy PrettyLittleThing Lands' End 19 Lidl 27 Russell Athletic
Balenciaga Calvin Klein 54
Dolce & Gabbana 3 Famous Footwear 9 Moncler 19 Mizuno 27 Helly Hansen 35 47
SAINT LAURENT Tommy Hilfiger 54
Longchamp 3 The Children's Place 9 Reserved 19 Ralph Lauren 27 OVS 35 46
Bottega Veneta Van Heusen 54
Nine West 3 ANTA 8 TOPVALU COLLECTION 19 LOFT 26 Asda 34 46
2 8 19 26 34 ASICS 46
Diane Von Furstenberg Beanpole Woolworths CELINE HEMA
South Africa Lululemon
DKNY 2 Cole Haan 8 Dior 26 Speedo 34 44
KiK 18 Bershka
Fashion Nova 2 Express 8 Louis Vuitton 26 The Warehouse 34 44
Kaufland 18 Massimo Dutti
KOOVS 2 Fila 8 Fendi 25 Hermès 33 44
Kmart 18 Pull&Bear
REVOLVE 2 Michael Kors 8 Marc Jacobs 25 Kmart Australia 33 44
Matalan 18 Stradivarius
Big Bazaar - ffb 1 Ross Dress for Less 8 Abercrombie & Fitch 25 Target Australia 33 44
Miu Miu 18 Zara
celio 1 Skechers 8 Hollister Co. 25 Fjällräven 31 43
Prada 18 Bonprix
Metersbonwe 1 Tommy Bahama 8 ALDI Nord 25 Mammut 31 43
Pimkie 18 New Look
New Yorker 1 Bosideng 7 Amazon 25 Morrisons 31 43
Tom Tailor 18 Tesco
Bally 0 Foot Locker 7 Brooks Sport 25 41
ALDO 17 Debenhams
Belle 0 Forever 21 7 Cotton On 25 41
American Eagle 17 Hugo Boss
Elie Tahari 0 New York & Company 7 Lacoste 25
Desigual 17
Heilan Home 0 United Arrows 7 Prisma 25
Falabella 17
Jessica Simpson 0 Carhartt 6 Zeeman 25
UGG 17
Max Mara 0 Jil Sander 6 Decathlon 23
Aritzia 16
Mexx 0 K-Way 6 Disney 23
Bloomingdale's 16
Pepe Jeans 0 LL Bean 6 REI 23
Macy's 16
Tom Ford 0 Neiman Marcus 6 Ted Baker 23
Cortefiel 16
Youngor 0 Sports Direct 6 Mango 22
Dick's Sporting Goods 16
Versace 6 Monoprix 22
JD Sports 16
Nordstrom 22
Kohl's 16
River Island 22
MRP 16
Free people 21
s.Oliver 16
Ito-Yokado 21
Costco 15
Salvatore Ferragamo 21
Fanatics 15
Victoria's Secret 21
JCPenney 15
Li-Ning 15
TJ Maxx 15
Truworths 15
Burlington 14
CAROLL 14
Foschini 14
J.Crew 14
Calzedonia 13
Intimissimi 13
Tezenis 13
Fossil 13
Joe Fresh 13
Carolina Herrera 12
Chico's 12
Reliance Trends 12
Takko 12
Brunello Cucinelli 11
Chanel 11
Diesel 11
Marni 11
La Redoute 11
Merrell 11
Sandro 11
* Brands ranked in numerical order by score out of 250, but shown as rounded-up percentage. Where brands have the same percentage score, they are listed in alphabetical order and grouped with others from same parent company
QUICK
FINDINGS
Average score
is 58 out of
10 brands 250 (23%).
(4%) score 0%
Not a single
this year
brand scores
above 80%
70
60
Only 1 brand
50 scores higher
than 70%
40
30
NO. OF BRANDS
20
10
0-5 6-10 11-20 21-30 31-40 41-50 51-60 61-70 71-80 81-90 91-100
FINAL SCORE (%)
TRANSPARENCY
3
THE FINAL SCORES
ACROSS THE
5 SECTIONS
AVERAGE SCORES
ACROSS THE SECTIONS
52% 29% 16% 17% 15%

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
POLICY & GOVERNANCE TRACEABILITY KNOW, SHOW & FIX SPOTLIGHT ISSUES
COMMITMENTS
Gucci is the highest scoring 9 brands score 100% in this The good news is that 40% of No brand scores above 59%. For the second year in a row,
brand in this section again for section, meaning they disclose brands are now publishing a list Adidas/Reebok and C&A all H&M (H&M Group) is the highest
another year, scoring 100%. contact details for the relevant of their first tier manufacturers. score highest at 59%. 100 brands scoring brand in this section
Adidas and Reebok come in department and individual However, no brands score in the (40%) score in the lowest range at 63%. 9 brands score in the
second at 99%. This means they responsible for sustainability 91-100% range. Esprit and The 0-10% disclosing nothing or very next highest range 51-60%
are publishing all the relevant issues in the company, as North Face, Timberland, Vans, little about supply chain due while 133 brands (53%) score
social and environmental well as information about how Wrangler (VF Corp brands) score diligence, supplier assessments in the lowest range 0-10%.
policies and procedures we accountability is cascaded highest in this section in the and their efforts to fix issues 74% of brands score 20% or
look at, as well as materiality throughout the business from 81-90% range. This means that when found. More than two- less in this section. On issues
assessments and goals for board level to executives and they are likely to be publishing thirds of brands (68%) score less related to working conditions,
improving impacts. 25 brands employees to supplier level. detailed supplier lists at the than 20%. Most brands share including living wages and
(10%) score in the lowest range, More than half the brands (52%) first tier and beyond, as well little information about the purchasing practices, brands
0-10%. This means they are score 20% or less in this section. as mapping at least one full results of supplier assessments disclose shockingly little
disclosing zero or very few raw material supply chain. 145 and remediation. When they information about their efforts.
relevant policies. We continue brands (58%) score in the 0-10% do it is typically shared through On environmental issues such
to see brands disclose the range and are not disclosing third party disclosure via the as use of sustainable materials
most about their policies and any suppliers at all. Ermenegildo ILO Better Work initiative or the and carbon footprint, more
commitments on social and Zegna has become the first Bangladesh Accord. brands are publishing relevant
environmental issues compared luxury brand to publish a information and data.
to any other section. supplier list. Balenciaga, Bottega
Veneta, Gucci and Saint Laurent
are now disclosing a handful of
raw material suppliers.
1. POLICY & COMMITMENTS

APPROACH
What human rights and environmental policies and procedures We typically found this information in Social & environmental priorities and
do major brands and retailers publicly disclose? the following places: measurable, long-term goals
In this section we reviewed what policies and procedures brands disclose • Brand website We looked to see whether brands and
both at company level (as related to the company’s own operations in retailers are disclosing their key human
• Parent company or group website
head offices, stores, warehouses, and owned production facilities) and at rights and environmental priorities (typically
supplier level (Code of Conduct or supplier guidance document). • Sustainability or corporate in the form of a materiality assessment).
responsibility microsite; Some issues will be more relevant and
• Investor relations website (so long as timely for each brand, and we wanted to
weblink made available via their understand how they decide upon these
main website) priorities and what these priorities are.
We looked at the following issues:
• Another external third party website (e.g.
• Animal Welfare • Harassment & Violence online data platform, NGO partner, data We also looked to see whether brands
• Annual leave & Public Holidays • Health & Safety sharing initiative, another benchmarking are publishing their goals or a strategic
• Anti-bribery, Corruption & • Living Conditions/ Dormitories disclosure - so long as the weblink roadmap for improving social and
Presentation of False Information is made available via the brand’s environmental impacts across the value
• Maternity Rights / Parental Leave
own website) chain. We only counted these goals if they
• Biodiversity & Conservation • Notice Period, Dismissal &
Disciplinary Action were time-bound, measurable and set for
• Child Labour
2020 or later. We also awarded points if
• Community Engagement • Overtime Pay We do not count the following
brands are reporting on annual progress
• Contracts & Terms of Employment • Restricted Substances List information sources: towards achieving these goals.
• Discrimination • Sub-contracting, Outsourcing &
Homeworkers • Clothing labels and hang tags on products
• Diversity & Inclusion
Verified information
• Energy & Carbon Emissions • Wages & Financial Benefits (e.g. • In-store or at other physical locations
• Equal Pay bonuses, insurance, social security, Finally, we looked to see if the human
pensions) • Smartphone apps
• Forced or Bonded Labour rights and environmental data reported
• Waste & Recycling (Packaging/Paper) • Social media channels by brands is audited by an independent
• Foreign & Migrant Labour
• Water Effluents & Treatment third party organisation, typically this is
• Freedom of Association, Right to • A third party website or document where
Organise & Collective Bargaining • Water Usage & Footprint there is no weblink from the brand’s own conducted by a large global
• Working Hours & Rest Breaks website, including press articles accounting firm.
• Downloadable documents where the

weblink cannot be found on the
brand’s website

RESULTS
0-5% 6-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-100%
REVOLVE 5 Billabong 10 Eddie Bauer 20 Foot Locker 29 Matalan 40 Columbia Sportswear 50 ALDI Nord 60 Kathmandu 69 Target 80 Hugo Boss 90 Gucci 100
Big Bazaar - ffb 4 Quicksilver 10 Versace 20 Forever 21 29 Steve Madden 40 MRP 50 Bloomingdale's 60 ALDI SOUTH 68 ASOS 79 Patagonia 89 Adidas 99
New Yorker 3 Roxy 10 Dolce & Gabbana 18 Dillards 28 Chico's 39 Tod's 50 Macy's 60 Clarks 68 CELINE 79 Tchibo 89 Reebok 99
Max Mara 2 Canada Goose 10 Justfab 18 Fanatics 27 Diesel 39 Burlington 49 Calzedonia 60 Jack & Jones 68 Dior 79 Timberland 89 Balenciaga 98
Pepe Jeans 2 Longchamp 10 Jockey 17 Fila 26 Marni 39 Zeeman 49 Intimissimi 60 Vero Moda 68 Fendi 79 The North Face 88 Bottega Veneta 98
Tom Ford 1 DKNY 9 Tory Burch 17 ANTA 26 Merrell 39 Cortefiel 48 Tezenis 60 Under Armour 68 Louis Vuitton 79 Vans 88 SAINT LAURENT 98
Bally 0 KOOVS 9 Jil Sander 16 boohoo 26 Sandro 39 Helly Hansen 48 COACH 60 Amazon 67 Marc Jacobs 79 Wrangler 88 C&A 97
Belle 0 celio 7 Aeropostale 15 PrettyLittleThing 26 DSW 38 Truworths 48 Kate Spade 60 El Corte Inglés 67 G-Star RAW 79 Calvin Klein 88 Puma 95
Elie Tahari 0 Diane Von Furstenberg 6 Cato Fashions 15 Express 26 Tom Tailor 38 Furla 46 LOFT 60 Kmart 67 Uniqlo 79 Tommy Hilfiger 88 Marks & Spencer 94
Heilan Home 0 Fashion Nova 6 BCBGMAXAZRIA 13 Neiman Marcus 26 Cotton On 37 Carolina Herrera 45 Brooks Sport 59 Lands' End 67 Walmart 79 Van Heusen 88 Banana Republic 91
Jessica Simpson 0 Nine West 6 Brunello Cucinelli 24 Armani 36 Fossil 45 Miu Miu 59 New Look 67 Asda 78 Hermès 88 Gap 91
Metersbonwe 0 Cole Haan 24 Buckle 36 JCPenney 45 Prada 59 Nordstrom 67 Next 78 Levi Strauss & Co 88 Old Navy 91
Mexx 0 New York & Company 24 Ermenegildo Zegna 36 Chanel 44 Russell Athletic 59 Topman 67 Ralph Lauren 78 ASICS 86 Converse 91
Youngor 0 Brooks Brothers 23 Reliance Trends 36 JD Sports 43 s.Oliver 59 Topshop 67 Monoprix 77 Bershka 86 Jordan 91
Carhartt 23 Anthropologie 35 Falabella 41 GUESS 57 Chloé 66 New Balance 77 Massimo Dutti 86 Nike 91
K-Way 23 Free people 35 La Redoute 41 John Lewis 57 Moncler 66 Tesco 76 Pull&Bear 86 Gildan 91
LL Bean 23 Urban Outfitters 35 River Island 41 KiK 57 Lacoste 65 The Warehouse 76 Stradivarius 86 H&M (H&M Group) 91
Michael Kors 23 Bosideng 35 Lidl 57 Speedo 65 Dressmann 74 Zara 86
Sports Direct 23 Joe Fresh 35 UGG 56 Abercrombie & Fitch 64 Lindex 74 Esprit 86
Beanpole 21 Pimkie 35 Very 56 Hollister Co. 64 Lululemon 74 Burberry 85
Claire's 21 The Children's Place 35 Woolworths 56 Carrefour 64 Big W 73 United Colors 84
South Africa of Benetton
Valentino 35 Mango 64 OVS 73
Costco 55 Zalando 84
Dr. Martens 34 Mizuno 64 Primark 72
Debenhams 55 Kmart Australia 83
Famous Footwear 34 Otto 64 Bonprix 71
Desigual 55 Target Australia 83
Foschini 34 Sainsbury’s- 63 Ito-Yokado 71
Dick's Sporting Goods 55 TU Clothing Monsoon 83
Gerry Weber 34 61 Salvatore Ferragamo 71
Prisma 55 Decathlon Fjällräven 81
Muji 34 61 TOPVALU COLLECTION 71
ALDO 55 Superdry
Tommy Bahama 34
HEMA 54
Skechers 33
Hudson's Bay 54
Ross Dress for Less 32
Saks Fifth Avenue 54
Takko 32
Li-Ning 54
Triumph 32
REI 54
Kaufland 31
Reserved 54
United Arrows 31
American Eagle 53
Champion 53
Hanes 53
Aritzia 52
Mammut 52
Morrisons 52
Ted Baker 52
CAROLL 51
Disney 51
J.Crew 51
Kohl's 51
TJ Maxx 51

FINDINGS
H OW M A N Y B R A N D S P U B L I S H R E L E VA N T P O L I C I E S ?
Company policies Forced & Bonded Labour 166 229

Health & Safety 102 173 186 228
Supplier policies
Child Labour 116 228
Procedures Harassment & Abuse 87 172 213
Discrimination 106 199 219
Working Hours & Rest Breaks 98 100 204
Freedom of Association, Right to Organise & Collective Bargaining 93 99 212
Wages & Financial Benefits (e.g. bonuses, insurance, social security, pensions) 138 174 210
Anti-bribery, Corruption, & Presentation of False Information 121 188 195
Equal Pay 84 123 153
Overtime Pay 45 185
Sub-contracting, Outsourcing & Homeworkers 61 174
Living Conditions/Dormitories 40 158
Energy & Carbon Emissions 130 194 198
Notice Period, Dismissal & Disciplinary Action 39 67 143
Contracts & Terms of Employment 39 53 137
Water Effluents & Treatment 119 121
Waste & Recycling (Packaging/Office/Retail) 29 111 110 136 187 188
Water Usage & Footprint 104 130 152
Foreign & Migrant Labour 106 107
Annual Leave & Public Holidays 49 86 106
Biodiversity 41 46 53 81 124 143
Maternity Rights & Parental Leave 72 88 107
Community Engagement 42 206 220
Waste & Recycling (Product/Textiles) 29 111 136
Animal Welfare 131 134
Diversity & Inclusion 147 182

Restricted Substance List 100 141
0 15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120 135 150 165 180 195 210 225 240 255 270

FINDINGS
I M P L E M E N TAT I O N O F P O L I C I E S
ANIMAL WELFARE BIODIVERSITY & CONSERVATION COMMUNITY ENGAGEMENT
54% 52% 32% 57% 82% 17%
publish a disclose how publish supplier disclose procedures publish a company publish supplier
company policy their policies are policies that address this topic policy on this topic policies
implemented
DIVERSITY & INCLUSION FREEDOM OF ASSOCIATION FORCED & BONDED LABOUR
73% 59% 85% 37% 92% 66%
publish a company disclose how policies publish supplier disclose how policies publish supplier disclose how policies
policy on this topic are implemented policies are implemented policies are implemented

FINDINGS
A N N UA L P R O G R E S S
CHILD LABOUR EMPLOYEE WAGES WORKER HEALTH CODES OF CONDUCT RSL

& BENEFITS & SAFETY
91 91
86
85
70
57
40
33
30
23
2019 2020 2019 2020 2019 2020 2019 2020 2019 2020
% that publish policy % publish employee % that publish % that publish supplier % that publish a
on child labour policies on supplier policies on codes of conduct in Restricted
wages and benefits health and safety multiple languages Substances List

ANALYSIS
For the first time, the overall Majority of brands publish Where brands have made the most year- Since publishing the Index, several brands
average score among brands policies on egregious issues on-year progress taking steps to publicly have taken steps to publicly disclose
on policy and commitments disclose company policies for the first some of their internal company policies
More than three-quarters of brands time, this includes: for the first time. This is not something
is over 50%. Every year this
publish company policies - those that has had as much external scrutiny
is the area in which brands • Annual leave and public holidays:
that apply to its own directors and as supply chain disclosure. Relevant
disclose the most information. 42% in 2020, up from 26% in 2019 information is often found in an Employee
employees - on topics including: anti-
bribery and corruption (78%), community and 23% in 2017 Handbook, Company Code of Conduct,
engagement (82%), discrimination (80%), separate environmental management
• Anti-bribery and corruption: 78% in policies or sometimes in the careers
and energy and carbon emissions (78%).
Policy & Commitments: 2020, up from 71% in 2019 and 35% section of a brand’s website, depending
Overall average score year- The topics in which the fewest number
in 2017 on the topic.
on-year progress of brands publish company policies
• Maternity rights and parental leave: More than three-quarters of brands
include: contracts and terms of
2017 2018 2019 2020 43% in 2020, up from 31% in 2019 and publish supplier policies - those that apply
employment (16%), dismissal and
30% in 2017 to its supplier partners and workers in
disciplinary action (27%), and working
49% hours and rest breaks (39%) the supply chain - on topics including:
of 100 brands • Dismissal and disciplinary action:
child labour (91%), discrimination (88%),
27% in 2020, up from 17% in 2019 and
46% forced and bonded labour (92%), freedom
of 150 brands
13% in 2017
of association and unionisation (85%),
48% • Waste and recycling (office and harassment and violence (85%), health and
of 200 brands
packaging): 75% in 2020, up from 72% safety (91%), wages and benefits (84%), and
in 2019 and 37% in 2017 working hours and rest breaks (82%).
52%
of 250 brands
Less than one-third of brands publish
supplier policies on the following topics:
biodiversity and conservation (32%),
community engagement (17%), maternity
rights and parental leave (29%), and textile
waste and recycling (12%).
The issues that receive the most public Less than a third of brands At least three-quarters of brands explain Far more brands continue to
scrutiny and pressure are those most disclose Supplier Codes of how company and/or supplier policies are disclose goals towards improving
likely to be reflected in the policies Conduct in local languages implemented through specific focused environmental impacts than
that major brands have taken steps to activities or procedures on the following human rights
disclose. Such topics include forced and Most supplier policies are set out in what topics: community engagement (88%),
bonded labour (92%), child labour (91%) is referred to as the brands’ Supplier energy and carbon emissions (79%), 57% of brands publish time-bound,
and factory health and safety (91%). Code of Conduct (CoC). For the most part, and office and packaging waste and measurable goals or targets focused on
brands publish their CoCs in English. recycling (75%). improving their environmental impacts,
However, most suppliers and workers and 52% report annual progress towards
Where brands have made the most On the other hand, less than one-fifth
are based in non-English speaking achieving these goals. On the other hand,
year-on-year progress taking steps to of brands explain how company and/or
countries, so we also look for brands to be only 38% of brands publish time-bound,
publicly disclose supplier policies for supplier policies are implemented through
publishing their Codes of Conduct in the measurable goals or targets focused on
the first time, this includes: local languages of their most prominent specific focused activities or procedures improving their human rights impacts,
sourcing countries so that workers can on the following topics: annual leave and 36% report annual progress towards
• Anti-bribery and corruption: 75% in access and understand the standards that and public holidays (20%), supplier living achieving these goals. We would also like
2020, up from 68% in 2019 and 61% apply to them. We found that only 30% of conditions and dormitories (16%), and to highlight the fact that many of the time-
in 2017 brands publish translations of their CoC. dismissal and disciplinary action (16%). bound goals that brands are disclosing
However, on a more positive note, this is end in 2020, and we will be interested to
• Dismissal and disciplinary action: an increase from 23% of brands in 2019. Brands are taking some steps to publicly
see how brands will update and make
57% in 2020, up from 48% in 2019 disclose information about how they’re
more ambitious and comprehensive
and 26% in 2017 Brands continue to publish more implementing company and supplier
goals going forward.
about their policies than how they policies, but we hope to see more
• Equal pay: 61% in 2020, down from progress next year covering a broader
implement them For another year in a row, less than half
68% in 2019 but up from 49% in 2017 range of issues. This year, the topics
of brands (42%) publish a materiality
As in all previous editions of the Index, which saw the most year-on-year
assessment, which is a process a
• Foreign and migrant labour: 42% in major brands tend to disclose more about progress were:
company undertakes to speak to
2020; up from 36% in 2019 and 32% their policies than they do about how they different stakeholders to determine
in 2017 • Animal welfare: 52% in 2020, up from
put those policies into action and the its most significant human rights and
results of their efforts to address social 47% in 2019 and 34% in 2017
environmental impacts. This information
• Living conditions and dormitories: and environmental issues. is useful because it helps us understand
63% in 2020, up from 52% in 2019 • Forced and bonded labour: 66% in 2020,
how brands decide what the biggest
and 51% in 2017 up from 62% in 2019 and 52% in 2017
For example, 91% of brands publish a priorities are in their business.
supplier policy on child labour, but only
29% of brands are now having the • Foreign and migrant labour: 43% in
46% disclose information about how this
sustainability information published in 2020, up from 32% in 2019 and 30%
policy is implemented through a specific
annual reports verified by third party focused procedure or activity. in 2017
firms, an increase from 26% of brands
in 2019. This assurance is typically Meanwhile, 73% of brands publish a
carried out by large accounting firms company policy on diversity and inclusion,
such as Deloitte, Ernst & Young or PwC. but only 59% disclose how this policy is
implemented.
2. GOVERNANCE
APPROACH
Who in the company is

responsible for social and
Employee, executive and
supplier incentives for "Fashion is at a crossroads
environmental impacts? improving performance
where one direction leads
to a rapid scale-up of
In this section, we wanted to understand We looked to see if brands are
who in the company is accountable for disclosing how their employees beyond
social and environmental performance the sustainability/CSR team (designers,
and impacts. buyers, sourcing managers, etc.) are implementation that'll turn
incentivised (via performance reviews
First, we looked to see if brands publish
direct contact details for a relevant
or bonuses) to achieve improvements
in social and environmental impacts.
it into a real climate leader.
department, such as the sustainability or
corporate responsibility team. Then, we We looked for the same information to
The other direction leads
looked to see if they share the direct contact
details for the individual(s) with lead
be shared linking CEO and executive
level pay and incentives to human
to more commitments,
but without real
responsibility for social and environmental right impacts and environmental
impacts. This enables the public to get in management.
touch with questions and queries.
Finally, we also looked to see if implementation."
We also looked for the name of a board suppliers’ incentives are linked to
member who is responsible for social improvements in human rights impacts
and environmental issues and how this and environmental management. The
oversight is implemented. types of incentives we were looking for
included brands committing to long- Liz McDowell,
term contracts, increased order size, Director, Standearth
price premiums and fewer audits.
2. GOVERNANCE
RESULTS
0-5% 6-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-100%
Aeropostale 0 Big Bazaar - ffb 8 ALDI SOUTH 17 American Eagle 25 Abercrombie & Fitch 33 Banana Republic 50 G-Star RAW 58 Asda 67 Fjällräven 75 Dressmann 83 Adidas 100
Anthropologie 0 Bloomingdale's 8 ALDO 17 Aritzia 25 Hollister Co. 33 Gap 50 Prisma 58 Walmart 67 Hugo Boss 83 Reebok 100
Free people 0 Macy's 8 Amazon 17 Big W 25 ALDI Nord 33 Old Navy 50 Zalando 58 Bershka 67 Marks & Spencer 83 Balenciaga 100
Urban Outfitters 0 boohoo 8 ANTA 17 HEMA 25 ASICS 33 Burberry 50 Massimo Dutti 67 Puma 83 Bottega Veneta 100
Bally 0 PrettyLittleThing 8 Armani 17 REI 25 ASOS 33 Calvin Klein 50 Pull&Bear 67 Sainsbury’s- 83 Gucci 100
TU Clothing
BCBGMAXAZRIA 0 CAROLL 8 Bosideng 17 Ted Baker 25 Beanpole 33 Tommy Hilfiger 50 Stradivarius 67 SAINT LAURENT 100
Belle 0 Cotton On 8 Brooks Sport 17 The Warehouse 25 Brunello Cucinelli 33 Van Heusen 50 Zara 67 C&A 100
Billabong 0 Fila 8 Buckle 17 Tom Tailor 25 Chico's 33 Champion 50 Bonprix 67 H&M (H&M Group) 100
Quicksilver 0 Merrell 8 Burlington 17 Chloé 33 Hanes 50 Otto 67 Tchibo 100
Roxy 0 Muji 8 Calzedonia 17 Clarks 33 Converse 50 CELINE 67
Brooks Brothers 0 Sandro 8 Intimissimi 17 Columbia Sportswear 33 Jordan 50 Dior 67
Canada Goose 0 Versace 8 Tezenis 17 Dick's Sporting Goods 33 Nike 50 Fendi 67
Cato Fashions 0 Carhartt 17 Dillards 33 Foschini 50 Louis Vuitton 67
celio 0 Carolina Herrera 17 El Corte Inglés 33 Gildan 50 Marc Jacobs 67
Chanel 0 Carrefour 17 Gerry Weber 33 JCPenney 50 Esprit 67
Claire's 0 COACH 17 GUESS 33 KiK 50 New Balance 67
Costco 0 Kate Spade 17 Helly Hansen 33 Lands' End 50 New Look 67
Debenhams 0 Cole Haan 17 Jack & Jones 33 Levi Strauss & Co 50
Desigual 0 Cortefiel 17 Vero Moda 33 Lindex 50
DKNY 0 Decathlon 17 JD Sports 33 Lululemon 50
Dolce & Gabbana 0 Diane Von Furstenberg 17 Kathmandu 33 Patagonia 50
Eddie Bauer 0 Diesel 17 Kmart 33 Ralph Lauren 50
Elie Tahari 0 Marni 17 Miu Miu 33 Speedo 50
Ermenegildo Zegna 0 Disney 17 Prada 33 Tesco 50
Fanatics 0 Dr. Martens 17 Mizuno 33 The North Face 50
Fashion Nova 0 DSW 17 Moncler 33 Timberland 50
Forever 21 0 Express 17 Monoprix 33 Vans 50
Fossil 0 Famous Footwear 17 Morrisons 33 Wrangler 50
Furla 0 Foot Locker 17 OVS 33 United Colors 50
0 of Benetton
Heilan Home Hermès 17 Reliance Trends 33
Falabella 42
Jessica Simpson 0 Hudson's Bay 17 Russell Athletic 33
Kohl's 42
Jil Sander 0 Saks Fifth Avenue 17 s.Oliver 33
LOFT 42
Jockey 0 Ito-Yokado 17 Salvatore Ferragamo 33
Monsoon 42
Justfab 0 J.Crew 17 Target 33
Next 42
KOOVS 0 Joe Fresh 17 TJ Maxx 33
Reserved 42
Lacoste 0 John Lewis 17 Tod's 33
LL Bean 0 Kaufland 17 Topman 33
Matalan 0 Kmart Australia 17 Topshop 33
Max Mara 0 Target Australia 17 UGG 33
Mexx 0 K-Way 17 Very 33
New York & Company 0 La Redoute 17 Woolworths
South Africa 33
New Yorker 0 Lidl 17
Pepe Jeans 0 Li-Ning 17
REVOLVE 0 Longchamp 17
Ross Dress for Less 0 Mammut 17
Skechers 0 Mango 17
Sports Direct 0 Metersbonwe 17
The Children's Place 0 Michael Kors 17
Tom Ford 0 MRP 17
Tommy Bahama 0 Neiman Marcus 17
Tory Burch 0 Nine West 17
Triumph 0 Nordstrom 17
United Arrows 0 Pimkie 17
Youngor 0 Primark 17
River Island 17
Steve Madden 17
Superdry 17
Takko 17
TOPVALU COLLECTION 17
Truworths 17
Under Armour 17
Uniqlo 17
Valentino 17
Zeeman 17
2. GOVERNANCE
FINDINGS
H OW E AS I LY C A N YO U CO N TAC T A B R A N D ? B OA R D L E V E L ACCO U N TA B I L I T Y
64% 14% 43% 40%
publish direct contact details of disclose the direct contact details of disclose who on the board publish a description of how
the sustainability or corporate the person with lead responsibility holds responsibility for the board level accountability
responsibility team for human rights and environmental company’s human rights and is implemented
impacts in the business environmental impacts
A R E I N C E N T I V E S T I E D TO S O C I A L A N D E N V I R O N M E N TA L P R O G R E S S ?
9% 14% 29%
explain how employee incentives explain how executive level explain how suppliers are rewarded for
(pay and bonuses) are tied to incentives (pay and bonuses) are improvements in working conditions and
improvements in social and tied to improvements in social environmental management (increased
environmental impacts and environmental impacts orders, longer contracts, fewer audits)
2. GOVERNANCE
ANALYSIS
Enabling customers and Board level accountability for Executive, employee and supplier However, more brands (29%) disclose
stakeholders to get in touch human rights and environmental incentives connected to making supplier incentives for improvements on
impacts progress human rights impacts and environmental
One simple act of transparency brands performance. This can include long-
can take is to provide a way to directly Many CEOs are coming to view We looked to see how major brands term commitments to purchase from
contact the corporate responsibility sustainability issues as critical to the are incentivising their own employees, suppliers, increased order sizes, price
or sustainability team. This allows an future of their business. A recent study company executives and suppliers premiums on orders or fewer audits.
open line of communication between of 1,000 global executives conducted by to improve human rights impacts
the brand and its customers and Accenture and UN Global Compact (2019) and environmental performance. By It is quite telling that brands disclose all
stakeholders who would like to ask shows that the business community incentives for employees and executives, sorts of policies and expectations of good
questions or raise concerns. This is why can and should be making a far we mean whether their job performance business practice for their suppliers, but
we look for brands to share a direct greater contribution to achieving the reviews, pay and bonuses are tied when it comes to tying that to executive
email address or phone number for a 2030 Sustainable Development Goals. to improvements in these areas. We and employee performance, then little
relevant department. Interestingly, 88% of CEOs “believe our found that only 9% of brands publish information is published. It begs the
global economic systems need to refocus information about how employees (e.g. question: why do brands seem more
We found that 64% of brands are now on equitable growth.” those working in designing, sourcing, willing to put performance-related
publishing an email address for their buying, merchandising, production) incentives and accountability in place for
CSR/sustainability department, up from On this topic, we found that fewer than incentives are tied to improvements in their suppliers than their own employees
60% of brands last year. However, only half of brands (43%) disclose the name human rights impacts and environmental and executives?
14% of brands disclose the direct contact of the board member, if there is one, performance. Meanwhile, only 14% of
details for the specific person in the who is responsible for human rights and brands disclose that executives' (e.g. CEO,
company in charge of human rights and environmental issues in the company, CFO, president) pay or bonuses are tied
environmental issues in the company. and 40% disclose how this board level to these improvements, an increase from
In next year’s report, we hope to see accountability is implemented in practice. 10% in 2019.
these numbers increase significantly,
especially for CSR/sustainability
department contact details.
3. TRACEABILITY
APPROACH
Are major brands and retailers

publishing lists of their suppliers and
how detailed is this information?
Disclosing factories, processing
facilities and raw material
suppliers
"Transparency
This section focused on whether brands are We looked for supplier lists at three levels:
and traceability
publishing lists of their suppliers and what level of
detail brands are disclosing about these suppliers. First, are brands disclosing the factories are enablers
of change"
where their clothes are made — e.g. the
facilities with which brands have a direct
Are brands sharing information such as:
relationship and typically do the cutting,
sewing and final trims of products?
• The address of the facility
• The types of products/services made in each Second, are brands disclosing processing
supplier facility facilities further down the supply chain — Leslie Johnston,
Chief Executive Officer at Laudes Foundation
e.g. from ginning and spinning, through
• Approximate number of workers
to subcontractors, wet processing,
• Sex-disaggregated breakdown of workers embroidering, printing, finishing, dye-
at each site houses, laundries, and so on?
• If the facility has a trade union
And finally, are brands disclosing their
• If the facility has an independent worker committee suppliers of raw materials — e.g. primary
• % of migrant or contract workers materials such as fibres, hides, rubber,
dyes, metals and so on?
• Name of parent company
• The business relationship between facilities at We also checked if brands disclose
different levels of their supply chain information about tracing at least one raw
material supply chain such as leather,
• If the list is available as a csv or Excel spreadsheet
cotton, down or wool.
• If the list was updated within the past 6 months
3. TRACEABILITY
RESULTS
0% 1-5% 6-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-100%
Aeropostale 0 ALDO 1 Tod's 10 Disney 20 Morrisons 30 Topman 39 Bonprix 49 Clarks 59 C&A 70 H&M (H&M Group) 77 Esprit 82
ANTA 0 American Eagle 1 Fjällräven 8 Amazon 19 Speedo 30 Topshop 39 Russell Athletic 49 Converse 59 ASOS 66 United Colors The North Face 81
of Benetton
73
Armani 0 Aritzia 1 Prisma 8 Bershka 19 Target 29 Levi Strauss & Co 38 ASICS 48 Jordan 59 Adidas 62 Timberland 81
Bally 0 Bloomingdale's 1 Abercrombie & Fitch 6 Massimo Dutti 19 Zalando 29 The Warehouse 35 Monsoon 48 Nike 59 Reebok 62 Vans 81
BCBGMAXAZRIA 0 Macy's 1 Hollister Co. 6 Pull&Bear 19 Ted Baker 28 Anthropologie 33 Helly Hansen 47 G-Star RAW 59 Patagonia 61 Wrangler 81
Beanpole 0 Burberry 1 Joe Fresh 6 Stradivarius 19 Cotton On 27 Free people 33 HEMA 47 Lindex 59
Belle 0 Canada Goose 1 Zara 19 Fanatics 27 Urban Outfitters 33 Puma 47 Debenhams 57
Big Bazaar - ffb 0 Carrefour 1 El Corte Inglés 16 Hermès 27 John Lewis 32 Banana Republic 46 Ermenegildo Zegna 57
Billabong 0 CELINE 1 Matalan 16 Mammut 27 Gap 46 Lululemon 57
Quicksilver 0 Dior 1 Kmart Australia 15 River Island 27 Old Navy 46 Sainsbury's 54
Roxy 0 Fendi 1 Target Australia 15 Under Armour 27 New Balance 46 Dressmann 53
boohoo 0 Louis Vuitton 1 Asda 14 ALDI SOUTH 25 New Look 43 Marks & Spencer 53
PrettyLittleThing 0 Marc Jacobs 1 Big W 14 Columbia Sportswear 25 Tchibo 42 Calvin Klein 52
Bosideng 0 Chloé 1 Brooks Sport 14 Jack & Jones 25 Tesco 42 Tommy Hilfiger 52
Brooks Brothers 0 COACH 1 LOFT 14 Vero Moda 25 Van Heusen 52
Brunello Cucinelli 0 Kate Spade 1 REI 14 Kathmandu 25 Gildan 52
Buckle 0 Cole Haan 1 Tom Tailor 14 Next 25 Champion 51
Burlington 0 Cortefiel 1 Balenciaga 13 Very 25 Hanes 51
Calzedonia 0 Costco 1 Bottega Veneta 13 Hugo Boss 24
Intimissimi 0 Dr. Martens 1 Gucci 13 Pimkie 24
Tezenis 0 Famous Footwear 1 SAINT LAURENT 13 Zeeman 24
Carhartt 0 Fossil 1 Lidl 13 Lacoste 23
Carolina Herrera 0 Gerry Weber 1 Victoria's Secret 13 Mizuno 23
CAROLL 0 Ito-Yokado 1 ALDI Nord 11 OVS 23
Cato Fashions 0 J.Crew 1 Hudson's Bay 11 Primark 23
celio 0 KiK 1 Saks Fifth Avenue 11 Kaufland 22
Chanel 0 Lands' End 1 Uniqlo 22
Chico's 0 LL Bean 1
Claire's 0 Merrell 1
Decathlon 0 Miu Miu 1
Desigual 0 Prada 1
Diane Von Furstenberg 0 Moncler 1
Dick's Sporting Goods 0 MRP 1
Diesel 0 Nordstrom 1
Marni 0 Otto 1
Dillards 0 Ralph Lauren 1
DKNY 0 Reserved 1
Dolce & Gabbana 0 s.Oliver 1
DSW 0 Salvatore Ferragamo 1
Eddie Bauer 0 Superdry 1
Elie Tahari 0 Takko 1
Express 0 UGG 1
Falabella 0 Walmart 1
Fashion Nova 0 Woolworths 1
South Africa
Fila 0
Foot Locker 0
Forever 21 0
Foschini 0
Furla 0
GUESS 0
Heilan Home 0
JCPenney 0
JD Sports 0
Jessica Simpson 0
Jil Sander 0
Jockey 0
Justfab 0
Kmart 0
Kohl's 0
KOOVS 0
K-Way 0
La Redoute 0
Li-Ning 0
Longchamp 0
Mango 0
Max Mara 0
Metersbonwe 0
Mexx 0
Michael Kors 0
Monoprix 0
Muji 0
Neiman Marcus 0
New York & Company 0
New Yorker 0
Nine West 0
Pepe Jeans 0
Reliance Trends 0
REVOLVE 0
Sandro 0
Skechers 0
Sports Direct 0
Steve Madden 0
The Children's Place 0
TJ Maxx 0
Tom Ford 0
Tommy Bahama 0
TOPVALU COLLECTION 0
Tory Burch 0
Triumph 0
Truworths 0
United Arrows 0
Valentino 0
Versace 0
Youngor 0
3. TRACEABILITY
FINDINGS
D I S C LO S I N G F I R S T T I E R M A N U FAC T U R E R D E TA I L S
40% 36% 30% 14% 4% 25%
publish a list of their include the address include approximate include the gender include whether publish at least 95% of
first tier manufacturers number of workers breakdown of workers the factory has a their manufacturers
trade union
P R O C E S S I N G FAC I L I T I E S R AW M AT E R I A L S U P P L I E R S
24% 22% 8% 7% 6% 50%
publish processing include the address include the gender publish some of their have updated mapping at least
facilities beyond breakdown of workers raw material suppliers this list within the one raw material
the first tier past 12 months supply chain
3. TRACEABILITY
ANALYSIS
As Jenny Holdcroft, the Assistant General Traceability: Overall average Disclosing first tier for trade unions and NGOs. Only 28% of
Secretary of IndustriALL Global Union, score year-on-year progress manufacturers brands disclose what percentage of their
explained in previous editions of this report: manufacturers are published in this list,
2017 2018 2019 2020 First tier manufacturers are the suppliers and 25% report that 95% or more of their
manufacturers are disclosed. Finally,
“Knowing the names of major that do the cutting, sewing and finishing of
8% garments in the final stage of production. 32% of brands disclose that this list of
buyers from factories gives of 100 brands
manufacturers has been published or
This year, we found that 40% of brands (101
workers and their unions a 11% updated within the past six months.
out of 250) are publishing their first tier
stronger leverage, crucial of 150 brands
manufacturers (up from 35% in 2019.) 36%
for a timely solution when In other exciting news, Ermenegildo
12% include the factory address. 29% include
of 200 brands Zegna has become the first luxury
resolving conflicts, whether the types of products or services provided,
brand to publish a detailed supplier list.
it be refusal to recognise the 16% 30% include approximate number of
However, Hermès has disclosed some
of 250 brands workers in the facility. 14% include the
union, or unlawful sackings ratio of women to men workers, up from
of its manufacturers and suppliers for
for demanding their rights. It many years. Also, Balenciaga, Bottega
9% last year. 4% include both whether the
Veneta, Gucci and Saint Laurent have
also provides the possibility Publishing supplier lists can also benefit factory has an independent union and/or
brands themselves. With this information started disclosing a handful of raw
to create a link from the independent worker committee in place.
publicly available, unions and civil material suppliers for the first time this
4% also include the number of migrant or
worker back to the customer society groups can help clarify when year. We welcome and encourage this
contract workers.
and possibly media to bring unauthorised subcontracting occurs in a development and hope that other luxury
attention to their issues.” brand’s supply chain. It can also enhance brands will follow their lead soon.
To align with the Transparency Pledge and
investor and consumer trust in the brand, Open Apparel Registry requirements, we
Publicly disclosed supplier lists are Furthermore, 14 brands that were
showing stakeholders that brands are looked at what additional details brands
helping trade unions and workers rights reviewed in last year’s report have since
willing to be open and honest about include for each facility in their supplier
organisations to address and fix problems disclosed their first tier manufacturers
where their products are being made. lists. We found that 18% include the name
which workers are facing in the factories for the first time, including: Amazon,
of the parent company for each factory
that supply major brands and retailers Anthropologie/Urban Outfitters, El Corte
if there is one, and 15% publish this list
(see the case studies on page 39 and 40 Inglés, Fanatics, Lacoste, Monsoon, OVS,
as a CSV or Excel spreadsheet in order
for examples.) River Island, Ted Baker, Tod's, Tom Tailor,
to make this information easy to use
Victoria's Secret and Zalando.
Disclosing processing facilities 12% of brands include the name of Publishing raw material suppliers Organic Cotton Standard, GOTS,
the parent company for each facility if FAIRTRADE Certified Cotton Mark and
These are the sorts of facilities that there is one, and 10% publish this list These suppliers are those that provide Cotton Programme, Cotton Made in
may do ginning and spinning yarn, as a CSV or Excel spreadsheet in order brands and their manufacturers further Africa HIP, Oeko-Tex SteP/Made in Green,
knitting and weaving fabrics, dyeing to make this information easy to use down the chain with raw materials such Leather Working Group) or blockchain,
and wet processing, leather tanneries, for trade unions and NGOs. Only 10% of as fibres, hides, rubber, dyes, metals and transaction certifications, DNA schemes
embroidering and embellishing, fabric brands disclose what percentage of their so on. We found that 7% of brands (18 and other similar technologies.
finishing, dyeing and printing and processing facilities are published in this out of 250) are publishing some of their
list, and 8% report that 95% or more of In other good news, 7 brands that were
laundering. We found that 24% of brands raw material suppliers (up from 5% in
their processing facilities are disclosed. reviewed in last year’s report have since
(60 out of 250) are publishing some of their 2019). This is usually only a handful of
20% of brands disclose that this list of disclosed some of their raw materials
processing facilities (up from 19% in 2019). their viscose, recycled polyester, wool or
processing facilities has been published suppliers for the first time, including:
cotton suppliers.
or updated within the past six months. Bottega Veneta/Gucci/Saint Laurent,
22% include the facility address. 20%
6% of brands have published or updated Ermenegildo Zegna, H&M (H&M Group),
include the types of products or services
And finally, a new indicator this year, we this list of raw material suppliers in Tesco and United Colors of Benetton.
provided, 16% include the approximate
number of workers in the facility. 8% looked to see if brands disclose which the past 12 months. 4% include the
manufacturer(s) each processing facility supplier address. 6% include the types Next year, we hope to see 50% (or
include the ratio of women to men
works with, and only 3% of brands of raw materials provided. 3% include more) of brands publishing a supplier
workers, up from 4% last year. 1% of
currently disclose this data. This piece of the approximate number of workers. list and more brands disclosing their
brands include both whether the facility
data is important because it establishes 2% include the ratio of women to processing facilities, mills, tanneries
has an independent union and/or
the relationship between different men workers. Less than 1% of brands and raw material suppliers further
independent worker committee in place.
tiers of the supply chain and enables include the number of migrant or down the tiers of the supply chain. We
2% also include the number of migrant or
suppliers, unions and workers' rights contract workers. And, less than 1% know that exploitation tends to thrive in
contract workers.
organisations to better leverage the right of brands publish this list as a CSV or hidden places, which is why focusing
decision makers to get issues solved. Excel spreadsheet in order to make this on transparency beyond the first tier
information easy to use for trade unions will become increasingly important.
The good news is that 15 brands and NGOs.
that were reviewed in last year’s
report have since disclosed some In slightly more positive news, half of the
of their processing facilities for the brands reviewed disclose evidence of
first time, including: Anthropologie/ tracing the supply chain for at least one
Urban Outfitters, Asics, Calvin Klein/ specific raw material. This is typically
Tommy Hilfiger/Van Heusen, Clarks, cotton, viscose, wool, recycled polyester,
Debenhams, Dressman, Ermenegildo leather or rubber. The tools they might be
Zegna, Lululemon, Monsoon, New Look, using to do this traceability work include
Sainsbury’s-TU Clothing and Topshop. certification systems (e.g. Responsible
Down/Wool Standard, Global Recycling
[LEFT] PHOTOGRAPHY ©NÄZ
Standard, Content Claim Standard,
naz.pt/
CASE STUDIES:
Transparency in action
[LEFT] Garment Worker

in Lesotho ©ALAFA
[RIGHT] 2019,
Bangladeshi garment
workers shout slogans
during a protest in
Savar, on the outskirts
of Dhaka, Bangladesh,
© 2019 AP
Worker Rights Consortium
LESOTHO
lists on their websites. WRC facilitated International Labor Rights Forum
In 2019, at three factories in Lesotho, all
owned by the same supplier, Worker discussions between local unions,
BANGLADESH
Rights Consortium (WRC) found that NGOs and the two companies, which
female garment workers were regularly resulted in a ground-breaking In December 2018, the Government of Around 11,600 workers were unlawfully
being coerced into sexual activity with legally-binding agreement to solve Bangladesh increased the minimum dismissed, most of who were unable
supervisors as a condition of gaining or this serious problem. monthly wage for garment workers to to find other jobs due to systematic
retaining employment or promotions. 8,000 Tk ($95 USD). The new minimum blacklisting. Through publicly disclosed
As part of the agreement, an wage was half the amount that the supplier lists, the International Labor
Nearly two-thirds of the garment
independent investigative workers’ rights organisations and trade Rights Forum identified which major
workers WRC interviewed reported
organisation has been established unions had demanded. Workers said the apparel brands were linked to factories
having experienced sexual harassment minimum wage was not enough to cover that filed unsubstantiated cases against
to receive complaints from workers,
and abuse or having knowledge of increased living costs, so they took to the workers. As a result of their campaign
carry out investigations and
harassment or abuse suffered by streets for largely peaceful strikes. Over efforts, the charges filed by 14 factories
assessments, identify violations of
co-workers. WRC discovered that VF the following two months, 65 workers were dropped.
a jointly developed code of conduct,
Corporation and Levi Strauss & Co. were were arrested while hundreds more
and direct and enforce remedies in faced unsubstantiated charges at the
both sourcing from these factories due
accordance with local law. behest of factory owners.
to the fact that they publish supplier
CASE STUDIES:
Transparency in action
[LEFT ]2019,
Bangladeshi garment
workers fill out their
worker diaries as part
of the Garment Worker
Diary project,
©Microfinance
Opportunities
[RIGHT] Garment
Workers in Malaysian
factory, ©giz.de
Garment Worker Diaries, Transparentem Transparentem’s investigation and

Microfinance Opportunities collaborative brand engagement
MALAYSIA model led to the return of 1,600
BANGLADESH worker passports and commitments
In Malaysia, Transparentem’s multi-year
to pay back USD $1.75 million in
According to cutting-edge research from investigation identified endemic labour
our partner project the Garment Worker worker-borne recruitment fees. In
rights abuses of migrant workers in five
Diaries (2019), Bangladeshi workers in October 2018, a new industry protocol
factories. In those factories, migrant
factories that are part of brands’ public called the American Apparel and
workers were deceptively recruited,
supplier lists earn more money per Footwear Association (AAFA)/Fair Labor
paid exorbitant recruitment fees,
month than workers in factories that are Association (FLA) Apparel & Footwear
and had their passports confiscated,
not disclosed publicly by brands. These Industry Commitment to Responsible
workers earn Tk. 5 per hour more and this thereby restricting their freedom of
Recruitment was established. To date,
translates into Tk. 1,040 in extra pay per movement. Transparentem connected
this protocol has been signed by 139
month for 208 hours of work compared these factories to 23 global brands
brands, potentially helping to shield
to workers in undisclosed factories – this and retailers using publicly available
1.5-2 million workers from slavery.
is equivalent to about one third of their supply chain data and other sources
typical cost of monthly rent. of evidence. Within two years,
4. KNOW, SHOW & FIX

APPROACH
What do major brands and retailers communicate about their human KNOW FIX
rights and environmental due diligence processes? How are they
assessing suppliers’ adherence to their standards? This year we introduced new indicators Finally, we looked at what brands are
on human rights and environmental publishing about how they remediate
due diligence to understand what steps human rights and environmental
brands are taking to identify human rights violations occurring within their supply
We awarded points if brands disclose information such as: and environmental risks, impacts and chain. We also checked to see if brands
violations in their supply chains. publish a confidential grievance
• How the brand works to identify • The process for taking on new mechanism for both employees and
and address human rights and suppliers We also looked for information on how workers in the supply chain. And finally,
environmental risks, impacts brands assess suppliers to ensure they we looked to see if brands disclose
and violations in its supply chain • How frequently assessments are meet their ethical standards and policies the results of their efforts to remediate
(its approach to conducting due conducted (e.g every 12 months) (typically factory audits) and which third violations and address grievances.
diligence) party auditing standards used.
• If brands conduct supplier
assessments beyond the first tier
• How workers, unions and other SHOW
affected stakeholders are involved
• If supplier assessments include
in the due diligence process We looked at whether brands are
off site worker interviews, and
if so how many workers are disclosing the results of their supplier
• How suppliers are assessed assessments, either as a summary of
interviewed
against the brand’s policies issues found in factories or at a more
granular level (e.g. disclosing findings by
individual factory).
4. KNOW, SHOW & FIX

RESULTS
0-5% 6-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-100%
Aeropostale 5 boohoo 10 Cortefiel 19 Gildan 30 Bershka 40 Puma 46 Adidas 59
Carolina Herrera 5 PrettyLittleThing 10 Disney 19 Hugo Boss 30 Massimo Dutti 40 Esprit 44 Reebok 59
Chanel 5 Brunello Cucinelli 10 LOFT 19 Kmart Australia 30 Pull&Bear 40 Balenciaga 43 C&A 59
Dr. Martens 5 Cato Fashions 10 Mizuno 19 Target Australia 30 Stradivarius 40 Bottega Veneta 43 H&M (H&M Group) 56
Jockey 5 Dillards 10 Prisma 19 Topman 30 Zara 40 Gucci 43
LL Bean 5 Express 10 REI 19 Topshop 30 New Balance 40 SAINT LAURENT 43
Nine West 5 Fossil 10 Speedo 19 Cotton On 29 Banana Republic 38 Levi Strauss & Co 43
REVOLVE 5 John Lewis 10 Columbia Sportswear 17 OVS 29 Gap 38 Marks & Spencer 43
Ted Baker 5 Kaufland 10 El Corte Inglés 17 Russell Athletic 29 Old Navy 38 Patagonia 43
Tommy Bahama 5 Li-Ning 10 Fjällräven 17 ASICS 27 ASOS 37 Dressmann 41
Armani 3 Michael Kors 10 Ito-Yokado 17 Converse 27 Calvin Klein 37 Primark 41
BCBGMAXAZRIA 3 Muji 10 Kathmandu 17 Jordan 27 Tommy Hilfiger 37 Uniqlo 41
Beanpole 3 Reliance Trends 10 Mango 17 Nike 27 Van Heusen 37
Brooks Brothers 3 Ross Dress for Less 10 Matalan 17 Lidl 27 Debenhams 37
Carhartt 3 Sandro 10 Ralph Lauren 17 Tesco 27 Lindex 37
Claire's 3 The Children's Place 10 River Island 17 The North Face 27 United Colors 37
of Benetton
DKNY 3 TJ Maxx 10 Victoria's Secret 17 Timberland 27
Truworths
Big W 35
Eddie Bauer 3 10 ALDO 16 Vans 27
Anthropologie
Lululemon 35
Foot Locker 3 8 Chloé 16 Wrangler 27
Free people
Burberry 33
Forever 21 3 8 Desigual 16 Asda 25
Urban Outfitters
G-Star RAW 33
Justfab 3 8 Hudson's Bay 16 Walmart 25
Buckle
New Look 33
K-Way 3 8 Saks Fifth Avenue 16 Champion 25
CAROLL
Sainsbury’s- 33
La Redoute 3 8 Jack & Jones 16 Hanes 25
TU Clothing
Cole Haan 32
Neiman Marcus 3 8 Vero Moda 16 Helly Hansen 25
Bonprix
DSW 32
Steve Madden 3 8 Monoprix 16 Morrisons 25
Tchibo
Calzedonia 2 Ermenegildo Zegna 8 The Warehouse 16 Target 25
Intimissimi 2 Jil Sander 8 Tom Tailor 16 Very 25
Tezenis 2 Miu Miu 8 Amazon 14 Abercrombie & Fitch 24
Diane Von Furstenberg 2 Prada 8 Clarks 14 Hollister Co. 24
Fashion Nova 2 Otto 8 COACH 14 HEMA 24
Sports Direct 2 Tod's 8 Kate Spade 14 Next 24
Tory Burch 2 ANTA 6 Dick's Sporting Goods 14 ALDI Nord 22
United Arrows 2 Aritzia 6 GUESS 14 Brooks Sport 22
Bally 0 Billabong 6 JD Sports 14 Decathlon 22
Belle 0 Quicksilver 6 Moncler 14 Falabella 22
Big Bazaar - ffb 0 Roxy 6 Monsoon 14 Zalando 22
Bosideng 0 Canada Goose 6 MRP 14 ALDI SOUTH 21
celio 0 Diesel 6 Salvatore Ferragamo 14 Carrefour 21
Dolce & Gabbana 0 Marni 6 Triumph 14 Mammut 21
Elie Tahari 0 Famous Footwear 6 Zeeman 14 Nordstrom 21
Heilan Home 0 Fanatics 6 Foschini 13 Under Armour 21
Jessica Simpson 0 Fila 6 JCPenney 13
KOOVS 0 Furla 6 Kohl's 13
Longchamp 0 Gerry Weber 6 Lands' End 13
Max Mara 0 s.Oliver 6 Reserved 13
Metersbonwe 0 Skechers 6 Superdry 13
Mexx 0 TOPVALU COLLECTION 6 Takko 13
New Yorker 0 Valentino 6 American Eagle 11
Pepe Jeans 0 Versace 6 Bloomingdale's 11
Tom Ford 0 Macy's 11
Youngor 0 Burlington 11
CELINE 11
Dior 11
Fendi 11
Louis Vuitton 11
Marc Jacobs 11
Chico's 11
Costco 11
Hermès 11
J.Crew 11
Joe Fresh 11
KiK 11
Kmart 11
Lacoste 11
Merrell 11
Pimkie 11
UGG 11
Woolworths
South Africa 11
4. KNOW, SHOW & FIX

FINDINGS
K N OW: D U E D I L I G E N C E P R O C E S S E S K N OW: S U P P L I E R AS S E S S M E N T S
34% 12% 11% 92% 58% 40%
disclose the approach explain how affected report what risks are disclose process for disclose the third-party report conducting
to human rights stakeholders are identified and prioritised assessing conditions audit standard(s) used supplier assessments
and environmental involved in due in supplier facilities beyond the first tier
due diligence diligence
S H OW: P U B L I S H I N G AU D I T R E S U LT S F I X : R E M E D I AT I N G I S S U E S
45% 25% 0% 75% 40% 16%
disclose aggregated publish selected audit publish full audit disclose the process for publish a confidential publish data about the
first tier supplier findings by named first findings by named first supplier remediation grievance mechanism number of grievances
audit findings tier supplier facility tier supplier facility for supply chain workers filed, addressed
and resolved in the
supply chain
4. KNOW, SHOW & FIX

ANALYSIS
KNOW 11% of brands publish what human Nearly half (48%) of brands explain 65% disclose what criteria they have in
rights and environmental risks, impacts how regularly they do supplier audits, place for taking on new suppliers before
and violations are identified through which is typically on an annual basis production is started to ensure the facility
Human rights and environmental
the supply chain due diligence process but sometimes more or less frequently meet its policies and standards. This is
due diligence
and how they are prioritised (e.g. (low, depending on the level of risk. most commonly some sort of supplier
medium, high). Meanwhile, just 8% of self-assessment or pre-production audit
Only 34% of brands are disclosing how Only 13% of brands disclose data
brands disclose the outcomes or results requirement. This is an increase from 55%
they proactively identify human rights indicating how many of these audits
of the steps the company has taken to of brands in 2017.
and environmental risks, impacts and are conducted on an announced,
cease, prevent, mitigate and remedy
violations in its supply chain — in other unannounced or semi-announced
these human rights and environmental 40% of brands explain that their
words, the company's approach to basis (where suppliers are given a two
risks, impacts and violations. supplier assessments go beyond direct
conducting due diligence. Good human week window in which the audit will take manufacturers to also include processing
rights due diligence practices are set out Supplier assessments place). There is always risk that suppliers facilities, textile mills, laundries, dye
clearly and comprehensively in sector may make special preparations for the houses, suppliers of raw materials and/
specific guidance published by the 92% of brands publish information about audit. Sedex suggests best practice or farms. This suggests that brands are
OECD, so we are surprised to see so few what sort of supplier assessments they is to use a mix of announced, semi- working to ensure that their social and
brands disclose that they conduct such do, up from 88% in 2019 and 84% in announced and unannounced audits to environmental standards are upheld
processes. Most brands seem to rely on 2017. These are typically social audits of mitigate this risk (Sedex, 2017). throughout the supply chain and not just
auditing their manufacturing facilities factories. 58% of brands disclose which in the facilities with which they have a
rather than explaining their broader due external audit standards or assessment Only 10% of brands report that their direct relationship.
diligence efforts, of which supplier audits methodologies they use, such as the audit process includes interviews with
might be a part. Higg Index, SMETA, BSCI, WRAP and so on. workers away from the factory premises.
This is a new indicator for 2020, and it is Speaking directly to workers is crucial
Furthermore, only 12% of brands explain useful because it gives us more insight for understanding what conditions are
how workers, producers, farmers, trade into exactly what criteria is used to really like in their workplace. Interviewing
unions and other affected stakeholders are measure suppliers’ compliance against workers offsite means they have more
involved in their due diligence process. social and environmental standards. of an opportunity to speak freely without
fearing their boss might be listening and
punish them as a result.
SHOW Then, if someone really wanted to T R A N S PA R E N C Y

take the time to investigate, for brands
that are publishing suppliers lists, you
Disclosing the results of supplier
could cross-reference their list and
assessments
the inspection reports on the Accord
website to see how their specific
45% of brands publish some generalised
factories are performing.
findings from their factory audits.
However, considerably fewer brands
The same logic also applies to brands
share such findings beyond the first tier of
who are members of the ILO Better
manufacturing for suppliers further down
Work programme, whose website FA I R T R A D E
the chain such as processing facilities
also discloses compliance reports for
(18%) and suppliers of raw materials (5%).
specific factories. Last year, brands W E L L- B E I N G
that were members of the Alliance
Many brands and retailers operate a
for Bangladesh Worker Safety and L I V I N G WAG E S
grading system (e.g. Green, Orange, Red
also publishing supplier lists received
or A, B, C) for their suppliers on social and
these points. However, the Alliance has EMPOWERMENT
environmental compliance. However,
since ceased operating. 12% of brands
only 2 brands (1%) actually disclose
publish some selected audit results for GENDER EQUALITY
these ratings for specific named supplier
specific named facilities beyond the
facilities. For example, H&M (H&M Group)
first tier of manufacturing too. BUSINESS ACCOUNTABILITY
publishes a list of all its manufacturers
and many of its processing facilities and We are looking for disclosure on audits S U S TA I N A B L E L I V E L I H O O D S
fabric mills. For many of these suppliers, results because there is evidence that
they include the supplier’s compliance it can drive positive change for workers GOOD WORKING CONDITIONS
grading (Gold, Silver, Other). in the supply chain. For example, Better
Factories Cambodia (BFC) launched its E N V I R O N M E N TA L S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y
A quarter of brands (25%) publish some
online transparency database showing
selected audit results for specific named
how individual garment factories
factories. This is usually as the result
measure up on key working conditions.
of being a member of the Bangladesh
One third of the 51 factories included
Accord on Building and Fire Safety, which
in the ‘Critical Issues’ database made
has inspected and upgraded thousands
improvements on 21 basic legal
of factories since the Rana Plaza collapse
requirements in anticipation of this A FAIR, SAFE, CLEAN
in 2013. On the Bangladesh Accord
website, anyone can find inspection
data being publicly disclosed. The total FASHION INDUSTRY
number of Critical Issues violations in
reports on building integrity and fire
this group of factories fell from 59 to 34
safety for specific factories.
between December 2013 and February
2014 — a 42% improvement.
FIX Dealing with employee and worker

grievances
Supplier remediation plans
59% of brands publish a confidential
whistleblowing channel (e.g. hotline,
75% of brands disclose what happens
website or email address) where their
when non-compliant issues (e.g.
employees can file complaints or report
people working excessively long hours,
violations of policies related to working
people working without written terms of
employment, locked fire exits or missing
fire extinguishers, etc.) are found as a
conditions, environmental issues,
corruption and other issues. 52% of brands "Besides believing
explain how the company responds to
transparency is the
result of the supplier assessment process,
complaints or reported violations. And,
up from 69% of brands in 2019 and 62%
only 15% disclose data about the number
in 2018. Typically brands will have put
right thing to do, it

of complaints and reported violations filed,
in place a remediation process, often
addressed and resolved.
referred to as a Corrective Action Plan,
where the factory is given a reasonable
also makes good

Meanwhile, just 40% of brands publish a
amount of time to rectify the issue.
similar sort of confidential whistleblowing
However, only 10% of brands explain
channel (e.g. hotline, website or email
business sense."
how workers, trade unions and any other
address) for the workers in their supply
affected stakeholders are involved in
chain to file complaints or report violations
the development and implementation of
of the brand’s policies related to working
these remediation plans. Remediation
conditions, environmental issues,
plans tend to be most effective when the
corruption and other issues. 36% of brands
affected stakeholders are involved as it
explain how the company responds to
ensures the remediation efforts have the
intended outcome for workers.
complaints or reported violations filed Stefan Seidel,
by workers in their supply chain. 22% Head of Corporate Responsibility, Puma Group
of brands also explain how garment
Only 15% of brands explain what happens
workers are informed that this grievance
when they decide to stop working with
channel exists and how to make use of it,
a supplier. This is important because if
up from 15% of brands in 2019. And, only
brands decide to abruptly drop a supplier
16% of brands disclose data about the
it can have negative impacts on workers,
number of garment workers’ complaints
such as suddenly losing their jobs, without
and reported violations that are filed,
any severance pay or being owed unpaid
addressed and resolved. This ensures that
wages. 20% of brands disclose how many
workers are able to speak up about poor
of their manufacturers have corrective
working conditions without the fear of
action plans in place on an annual basis.
being fired or punished.
VIEWPOINT:
THE FASHION INDUSTRY
HAS A TRUST ISSUE “Transparency in the post This means identifying the links that
brands and retailers have with suppliers
COVID-19 pandemic where workers are particularly at risk,

for example, in sub-contracted facilities.
Taking steps to identify human rights
might very well become abuses in order to prevent and mitigate
them leads brands and retailers further
a strategy forward to down the chain to the mills where young
girls often work very long hours with
BEN VANPEPERSTRAETE
rebuild the eroded trust limited freedom of movement or to the
cotton fields where forced labour may
HUMAN RIGHTS EXPERT
in brands and retailers.” be prevalent.
Coming back to trust, brands and

Clothes have been at the centre This increased scrutiny has made ‘radical factories production is happening, where retailers must be able to demonstrate
of shocking global events such as transparency’ not only a ‘nice-to-have’ fabric is coming from and where cotton that they understand how their supply
the Rana Plaza factory collapse or a ‘trend’ as documented in this edition is grown. chains have been built and they invite
of the Fashion Transparency Index (see
and now the widespread breach of everybody who has knowledge of
the growing number of brands disclosing Only after identifying where their
contracts and dumping of orders particular risks or abuses to get in touch.
production locations, the increase in clothes and materials come from,
as a result of the COVID-19 crisis. More and more companies are beginning
available data on those locations as well can brands and retailers really start
to acknowledge the strategic value of
Over the years, brands and retailers as brands disclosing what is happening to examine what might, and often
transparency and the support it can
have been the target of numerous further down the chain). Transparency in probably is, going wrong in these
give to their due diligence processes
campaigns unveiling how a highly the post COVID-19 pandemic might very facilities. It requires a shift in thinking
as well as in rebuilding trust. This is
profitable industry manages to pay well become a strategy forward to rebuild from minimising risks and violations
why we are seeing brands and retailers
the eroded trust in brands and retailers. to actively welcoming the identification
their workers so little. The sector disclosing their suppliers, not only at
of them in order to be better able to
has repeatedly been the topic of fix them. It would mean that glossy
the first tier of manufacturing but also
Current consensus expects that
exposés documenting eggregious the facilities where their cloth is woven
companies are actively going out sustainability reports and damage
and the sources of their raw materials.
labour rights abuses. This has and looking at how they are causing, control after painful media exposés
Given this trend, we will soon see a shift
left many consumers, citizens contributing or directly linked to human become less of a priority, and instead
where it is no longer a debate about why
and policymakers wondering rights violations and environmental attention shifts towards more radical
brands need to become transparent. The
whether the fashion industry degradation in their supply chains – and transparency, acknowledgement of
focus will turn onto brands who are not
then fixing these problems. But in order to problems and an attitude (backed with
can be left to its own devices. disclosing their suppliers and we will all
do so, it is important that companies get the necessary resources) focussed on
ask: what do they have to hide?
to know “who made their clothes” in which making things right again.
5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES:
APPROACH
Each year, we explore a few key issues in deeper detail. For 2020, our focus covers
four strategic areas we call the 4 C’s: conditions, consumption, composition and
climate. These topics are selected and indicators formulated in consultation with
industry experts. We have also designed the indicators to align with and support
the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), which aims to bring
nations together to build a better world for people and our planet by 2030.
CONDITIONS CONSUMPTION COMPOSITION CLIMATE
What are major brands and retailers What are major brands and retailers What are major brands and retailers Are major brands and retailers taking
doing to improve conditions for workers doing to address overproduction, doing to increase the use of sustainable urgent action to combat climate
within the company and their supply minimise waste and move towards materials and reduce the use of virgin breakdown and move towards sustainable
chains? Specifically, we looked at: circularity? Here we looked plastics and hazardous chemicals? management of natural resources?
specifically at: We looked at: Here we looked at whether brands:
• Modern slavery and supply chain
recruitment practices • How many items were produced • Strategies and progress on the • Publish Science Based Targets
in the reporting period switch to more sustainable materials
• Living wages and wage data in the • Publish a commitment to
supply chain • How much textile waste is • Strategies and progress on the deforestation
generated and how much of this reduction of the use of virgin plastics
• Purchasing practices and what • Publish carbon footprint in owned
was destroyed or recycled
brands are doing to be good • What the brand is doing to minimise facilities and in the supply chain
business partners to their suppliers • Strategies and progress on the impact of microfibres
• Disclose the amount of renewable
reducing pre-consumer energy used in owned facilities and
• Unionisation and collective • Investments in textile-to-textile
waste and recycling post- in the supply chain
bargaining circular recycling
consumer waste
• Gender equality and equal pay in • Strategies and progress on • Publish water footprint in owned
the company and supply chain the reduction of the use of facilities and in the supply chain
hazardous chemicals
• Link environmental impacts to
the business bottom line
5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES:
RESULTS
0-5% 6-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-100%
Bloomingdale's 4 ALDO 10 Champion 20 Decathlon 29 Esprit 39 Calvin Klein 47 Adidas 59 H&M (H&M Group) 63
Macy's 4 Big W 10 Hanes 20 Fjällräven 29 Mammut 37 Tommy Hilfiger 47 Reebok 59
Calzedonia 4 Brunello Cucinelli 10 El Corte Inglés 20 Gildan 29 The North Face 37 Van Heusen 47 Patagonia 57
Intimissimi 4 CAROLL 10 Fendi 20 John Lewis 29 Timberland 37 Balenciaga 45 Marks & Spencer 53
Tezenis 4 Carrefour 10 Marc Jacobs 20 Next 29 Vans 37 SAINT LAURENT 45 C&A 51
Dick's Sporting Goods 4 Cotton On 10 G-Star RAW 20 Sainsbury’s- 29 Wrangler 37 Bershka 45 Converse 51
TU Clothing
Diesel 4 La Redoute 10 Kmart Australia 20 29 Tesco 35 Massimo Dutti 45 Jordan 51
Tchibo
Marni 4 Li-Ning 10 Target Australia 20 29 Uniqlo 35 Pull&Bear 45 Nike 51
Zalando
Dr. Martens 4 Monoprix 10 Morrisons 20 27 Banana Republic 33 Stradivarius 45 Gucci 51
Asda
Fila 4 Otto 10 Tod's 20 27 Gap 33 Zara 45
Lindex
J.Crew 4 UGG 10 Topman 20 27 Old Navy 33 Burberry 45
Ralph Lauren
JCPenney 4 Under Armour 10 Topshop 20 27 New Balance 33 ASOS 43
Target
Kmart 4 boohoo 8 United Colors 20 24 Primark 33 Bottega Veneta 43
of Benetton Columbia Sportswear
Moncler 4 PrettyLittleThing 8 24 ASICS 31 Puma 43
Woolworths 20 Dior
River Island 4 Burlington 8 24 Levi Strauss & Co 31
South Africa
Louis Vuitton
Russell Athletic 4 Carolina Herrera 8 24
Brooks Sport 18 Hugo Boss
Tommy Bahama 4 Chloé 8 24
Clarks 18 New Look
United Arrows 4 Costco 8 24
Monsoon 18 OVS
Valentino 4 Falabella 8 24
Reserved 18 Speedo
Armani 2 Fossil 8 22
The Warehouse 18 CELINE
Canada Goose 2 Free people 8 22
TOPVALU COLLECTION 18 Hermès
Cole Haan 2 HEMA 8 22
Zeeman 18 Lidl
Dillards 2 Ito-Yokado 8 22
Abercrombie & Fitch 16 Mango
DSW 2 KiK 8 22
Hollister Co. 16 Prisma
Foot Locker 2 Kohl's 8 22
ALDI Nord 16 Superdry
Forever 21 2 MRP 8
ALDI SOUTH 16
Gerry Weber 2 Reliance Trends 8
Debenhams 16
Hudson's Bay 2 s.Oliver 8
GUESS 16
Saks Fifth Avenue 2 Salvatore Ferragamo 8
Helly Hansen 16
Longchamp 2 TJ Maxx 8
Kathmandu 16
Matalan 2 Very 8
LOFT 16
Pimkie 2 ANTA 6
Miu Miu 16
Skechers 2 Anthropologie 6
Prada 16
Steve Madden 2 Urban Outfitters 6
Nordstrom 16
Triumph 2 Beanpole 6
Vero Moda 16
Aeropostale 0 Chanel 6
Walmart 16
Bally 0 Cortefiel 6
American Eagle 14
BCBGMAXAZRIA 0 Disney 6
Aritzia 14
Belle 0 Jil Sander 6
Bonprix 14
Big Bazaar - ffb 0 Joe Fresh 6
COACH 14
Billabong 0 Mizuno 6
Kate Spade 14
Quicksilver 0 Muji 6
Dressmann 14
Roxy 0 Sandro 6
Jack & Jones 14
Bosideng 0 Sports Direct 6
JD Sports 14
Brooks Brothers 0 Takko 6
REI 14
Buckle 0 Tom Tailor 6
Amazon 12
Carhartt 0
Desigual 12
Cato Fashions 0
Foschini 12
celio 0
Kaufland 12
Chico's 0
Lacoste 12
Claire's 0
Lululemon 12
Diane Von Furstenberg 0
Ted Baker 12
DKNY 0
Truworths 12
Dolce & Gabbana 0
Eddie Bauer 0
Elie Tahari 0
Ermenegildo Zegna 0
Express 0
Famous Footwear 0
Fanatics 0
Fashion Nova 0
Furla 0
Heilan Home 0
Jessica Simpson 0
Jockey 0
Justfab 0
KOOVS 0
K-Way 0
Lands' End 0
LL Bean 0
Max Mara 0
Merrell 0
Metersbonwe 0
Mexx 0
Michael Kors 0
Neiman Marcus 0
New Yorker 0
Nine West 0
Pepe Jeans 0
REVOLVE 0
The Children's Place 0
Tom Ford 0
Tory Burch 0
Versace 0
Youngor 0
5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES
FINDINGS
L I V I N G WAG E S G E N D E R E Q UA L I T Y
23% 5% <1% 34% 3% 1%
disclose approach to disclose annual publish the number publish the company’s disclose how publish data on gender-
achieving living wages progress towards of workers being gender pay gap women workers are based violations in
for supply chain workers paying living wages paid a living wage involved in the due supplier facilities
diligence process

P U R C H AS I N G P R AC T I C E S U N I O N I SAT I O N M O D E R N S L AV E RY
11% 6% 4% 9% 42% 13%
disclose method for publish policy to pay disclose number of disclose number of disclose approach to publish data on modern
isolating labour costs suppliers within 60 days supplier facilities that workers covered by recruitment fees in slavery related violations
from price negotiations have trade unions collective bargaining the supply chain in supplier facilities
agreements
5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES
FINDINGS
WA S T E & R E C YC L I N G P L AS T I C S S U S TA I N A B L E M AT E R I A L S
4% 18% 20% 29% 42% 36%
publish the amount report investing in explain what the publish measurable publish time-bound, disclose progress on
of textile waste textile-to-textile brand is doing to progress towards measurable sustainable achieving sustainable
generated in the annual recycling solutions minimise microfibres reducing the use materials strategy material targets
reporting period of virgin plastics
HAZARDOUS CHEMICALS CARBON EMISSIONS WAT E R U S E
24% 19% 58% 16% 31% 4%
publish time-bound disclose progress publish annual publish carbon publish annual water publish annual
commitment to towards this achieving carbon footprint footprint in footprint in company’s water footprint at
eliminate hazardous commitment in company’s company’s own facilities raw material level
chemicals own facilities supply chain
5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES
ANALYSIS
CONDITIONS companies were required to start
reporting about forced labour in their
of trafficking are frequently trapped in
forms of modern slavery. Much of IHRB’s
supply chains in 2017. Following this, the work is focused on how workers are
92%
Modern Slavery Australian Modern Slavery Act was passed recruited and in particular the payment of
in 2018 and came into force during 2019. recruitment fees to secure employment.
This Spotlight Issue is new for We have based the methodology in this
2020, and we are looking at the subsection on IHRB’s work.
steps brands are taking to address
13% of brands publish data about of brands are
the prevalence of modern slavery
risks of forced and bonded related violations in their supplier We found that 42% of brands disclose publishing supplier
their approach to the use of recruitment
labour, particularly recruitment facilities. Potential indicators of modern policies on forced
slavery could include restricted fees in the supply chain. A company’s
practices in the supply chain. and bonded labour
freedom of movement, factories or typical approach is to set a policy that
recruiters retaining workers' passports no fees or related costs should be paid
In the last several editions, we have looked
or other identity/personal documents, by workers in the supply chain as part
to see if brands disclose policies and
forced and excessive overtime, of their recruitment process. The brand
procedures related to forced and bonded
withholding wages, debt bondage, and might also take steps to ensure that any
labour. This year we found that 92% of
as explained above, grievances related fees or related costs that are paid by
brands are publishing supplier policies on
to recruitment practices. workers are reimbursed.
forced and bonded labour, compared to
86% last year. However, in order to truly understand
As the Institute for Human Rights and
Business (IHRB) explains, “migrant if workers are paying recruitment fees
Only 42% of brands disclose a specific or related costs then they would need
workers are an ever-present feature
policy on the use of foreign and migrant to be interviewed about what their
of global supply chains, found in all
labour. Notably, 43% of brands publish recruitment journey has entailed, and only
sectors and all geographies. Low-income
information about programmes they 5% of brands disclose that workers are
migrant workers are amongst the most
have in place to address foreign and interviewed about this issue specifically.
vulnerable to exploitation and abuse, and
migrant labour, up from 32% last year.
are often the least able to assert their
This increase in disclosure around
rights. For many, a lack of viable options
forced labour could be a result of the
to sustain a livelihood at home increases
recent adoption of mandatory reporting
their willingness to accept poor working
legislation. For example, the UK Modern
conditions abroad.” In other words, victims
Slavery Act was passed in 2015 and
commitment to “reach living wages benchmarks its supply chain wage data which is why first results show a positive
by 2025 with our apparel assembly against both the Anker methodology development since 2018.” PUMA explains
LIVING WAGE factories” and links to Fair Labor and Asia Floor Wage calculations that, "on average, our core suppliers pay
[noun] Association’s Fair Compensation Work in Bangladesh and China. Outdoor 21% above legally mandated minimum
Plan to illustrate how they are working brand Patagonia also uses the Anker wages in their respective countries.
The remuneration received by a towards this goal. In fact, Patagonia Methodology, while Mammut uses the Fair Adding overtime and bonuses, this
is the only brand to disclose relevant Wear Foundation Wage Ladder, which is increases to 84%”.
worker in a standard working week in
a particular place sufficient to afford information for every indicator we looked based on a range of industry calculations
And finally, only one brand discloses the
at in the living wages sub-section. including the Asia Floor Wage. Mammut
a decent standard of living for the percentage or number of workers in its
Swedish fast fashion brand Lindex explains, we have “been analyzing the
worker and her or his family. Elements supply chain that are being paid a living
explains, “Our goal is that by 2025, Lindex wage levels of the sewing workers in
of a decent standard of living include wage. Granted this data is not very easy to
suppliers who stand for 80% of our [our] factories. As they mostly use FWF
food, water, housing, education, health find and buried many pages within a self-
production work actively with a living audits they have used the wage ladder
care, transport, clothing, and other published magazine found via their blog,
wage program.” In the luxury sector, information for this analysis”.
essential needs including provision Patagonia explains, “Based on our initial
Gucci says, "both Kering and Gucci have
Furthermore, only 12 (5%) of brands report analysis, our apparel suppliers pay at
for unexpected events. developed a 2025 strategy to achieve a
annual, measurable progress towards least 81% of the living wage, 18% of them
living wage for all workers across our
paying living wages to workers in their paying above the living wage.” However,
supplier network”. Even though it is an
supply chains. it is not just Patagonia. This is true for
ambitious task, an open-ended goal
Living wages gives no indication on the timescale in
many brands, where relevant disclosure
Only 5 brands (2%) publish data on is buried within 100+ page reports and in
which workers might expect to be paid
Less than a quarter (23%) of brands the percentage above the minimum footnotes and appendices.
higher wages.
disclose the company's approach to wage rate workers are paid in their
achieving the payment of living wages to According to Labour behind the supply chains. For example, in its 2018 This is an urgent issue for so many
workers in the supply chain, an increase Label (2019) there is a gap of 2 to 5 sustainability report (page 74) H&M (H&M workers in the textile supply chain who
from 19% of brands in 2019. Brands that times, between minimum or industry Group) reports that, "When analysing struggle to afford life’s basic necessities.
disclose this information will typically do standard wages and most living wage the data from supplier factories in our While it is a complex issue to solve,
so by explaining their participation in living benchmarks based on a cost of living key market suppliers, we can see that without more collective action and greater
wage focused initiatives such as ACT, Fair methodology. In India, for example, the the factories which are implementing transparency from major brands and
Wear Foundation’s Wage Ladder, Fairtrade minimum wage is half of the value that improved Wage Management Systems retailers, it will be a very long time before
Textile Standard and the Fair Labor unions have been asked for and only a pay higher take-home wages than those workers are paid decent and fair wages.
Association’s Fair Compensation Strategy. third of the Asia Floor Wage. which don’t. In 2017, the difference ranged
from 8% higher take-home wages in
Only 5 brands (2%) publish a time-bound, Just 6 (2%) brands explain what living Bangladesh to 29% in Indonesia. In 2018,
measurable roadmap or strategy for wage estimates they use to track the difference ranged from 2% in Turkey
how they will achieve a living wage for and benchmark wages for workers in to 11% in Indonesia. In Myanmar first
all workers across their supply chains. their supply chains. For example, New factories started implementing improved
For example, Patagonia publishes a Zealand based retailer The Warehouse Wage Management Systems in late 2017
Purchasing practices about the percentage of payments made

to suppliers on time and according to
Responsible purchasing practices go hand- agreed terms.
in-hand with the ability of suppliers to pay
workers adequate and reliable wages. Yet, In the past few weeks millions of workers
on the whole, brands disclose shockingly making clothes for some of the world’s
little about what they’re doing to be good most profitable companies have been
business partners to their suppliers. laid off or temporarily suspended without
receiving the pay they are entitled to by
For example, only 11% of brands disclose
the method they use for calculating
law and the vast majority have no savings
to fall back on and no social protection.
"Secrecy is the
linchpin of abuse
and ring-fencing labour costs when Poverty and hunger could potentially
negotiating the price they pay suppliers for prove more of a threat to their lives than
products, up from 3% of brands in 2019. the virus.
Ideally, these labour costs should cover
the wage rate as well as overtime, social
Finally, only 13 brands (5%) publish
information about their supplier’s
of power...its
security, sick leave, vacation and other
forms of leave, the cost of indirect labour
and planned or potential wage increases.
feedback on the brand’s buying
behaviour. Supplier feedback is typically enabling force.
gathered through participation in the
Transparency is the
This ensures that labour costs are non-
Better Buying initiative, through internal
negotiable and enables suppliers to pay
supplier surveys or during annual
their workers adequate and fair wages.
only real antidote."

Supplier Summit events organised by
Since the outbreak of coronavirus we have brands in their sourcing regions. This
heard about the devastating impacts of is useful information because it gives
cancelling orders, including orders already an indication as to whether brands are
in production, and delaying payments, with willing to listen and makes changes to be
many brands invoking the force majeure better business partners to suppliers.
clause to free them of their contractual
Right now brands’ purchasing practices Glen Greenwald,
responsibility to pay suppliers at all. Attorney and journalist
are being called into question as they
seek to deal with the economic crisis
When supplier payments are delayed
caused by the coronavirus pandemic. This
this can have a knock-on effect on their
is why it’s vital that brands share more
cash flow and impacts their ability to pay
information about how they do business
workers on time. We found that only 15
with their suppliers, so that they can
brands (6%) publish a policy stating that
be held accountable, and stick to their
they pay suppliers within 60 days (e.g. via
commitments in order to provent workers
UK Prompt Payment Code commitments)
and their families from going hungry.
and only 4 brands (2%) publish data
Unionisation and collective Gender equality Despite ample research that shows On the other hand, brands seem to be doing
bargaining how commonly women workers are more to be transparent about gender
The global fashion industry employs subjected to gender-based harassment equality (or lack thereof) when it comes to
Freedom of association, including the millions of women, from farm to factory to and violence in the garment and textile- jobs roles in their own companies. Over
right to form and join trade unions and retail. Each year we explore what gender- manufacturing sector, only 2 brands half of the brands (52%) publish data on
collectively bargain all are fundamental focused policies are disclosed by major (1%) publish data on the prevalence the annual sex disaggregated distribution
labour rights enshrined in a number of fashion brands. This year, we found that of gender-based violations in their of job roles (e.g. executives, managers,
international agreements and national less than half the brands (49%) publish suppliers’ facilities. These violations supervisors, employees).
laws. These are considered enabling rights employee policies on equal pay while could relate to issues such as sexual
because when workers can join together 61% of brands publish supplier policies harassment, gender-based violence, 34% of brands publish the annual
to speak out and negotiate with their on equal pay. Meanwhile 34% of brands discrimination against pregnant workers, gender pay gap within their companies.
employers for better working conditions, disclose information about how they put lack of maternity pay, lack of bathroom This is often as a result of government
it means they can address other issues their equal pay policies into practice. breaks, not allowed during periods regulation. For example, in the UK
that concern them most such as pay, and so on. Considering that data from companies have been required by law to
maternity rights, health and safety and Conversely, 43% of brands now publish CARE International (2019) suggests that publicly report this since April 2018.
other associated rights. employee policies on maternity rights 50% of women garment workers in
and parental leave, compared to 31% in southeast Asia have experienced sexual
This is why it’s shocking that only 9 brands 2019, while 29% of brands publish supplier harassment in the workplace, we hope
(4%) publish the percentage or number of policies on maternal rights and parental that in the near future brands begin to
factories in their supply chain that have leave, compared to 22% last year. publish more data on this important topic.
34%
independent, democratically elected
trade unions that workers can join, and Earlier we described what sort of Women who work in garment
22 brands (9%) publish the percentage or disclosure we have seen from brands manufacturing also tend to be employed
number of workers in their supply chain when it comes to human rights and in the lowest paid job roles, whereas men
that are covered by collective bargaining environmental due diligence. Considering are commonly supervisors and factory of brands publish
such a huge proportion - estimates say managers. Despite this inequality, only
agreements (CBAs).
70-80% - of the garment sector workforce 2% of brands publish data on the sex
the annual gender
are women, very few brands (only 3%) disaggregated distribution of job roles in pay gap within
explain how women workers, women’s their supply chain (e.g. lower paid roles their companies
organisations and/or gender experts are such as helpers and machinists verses
involved in the company’s due diligence higher paid roles such as supervisors
processes. and managers).
5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES
ANALYSIS
CONSUMPTION Annual production volume Brand Annual product volume

in the reporting period
Global clothing consumption has more We thought it particularly interesting to

Inditex (Zara, Bershka, Massimo Dutti, Pull&Bear, Stradivarius) 1.6 billion
than doubled from 74.3 billion items of see if brands disclose data on production
clothing and footwear in 2005 to 130.6 and waste volumes. We found that 23 Gildan 1.4 billion
billion items in 2019 (Euromonitor, 2020). brands (9%) publish the number of
This equates to every person on the planet products (e.g. garments, shoes, socks) Adidas (incl. Reebok) 866 million*
buying 15 garments and 2 pairs of shoes they made over the annual reporting
period, and some of the numbers are OVS 755 million
annually (although buying patterns vary
considerably across countries). At this rate staggering (see table for examples).
Mango 146 million**
of growing consumption, coupled with
population growth and increasing wealth We also found that 11 brands (4%) Benetton 101 million
in emerging economies, we could expect disclose the percentage or volume of
production and consumption of clothing product/textile waste generated during * 457 million unit of apparel and 409 million pairs of shoes
and footwear to triple by 2050 (Ellen the annual reporting period, and 7 ** 8 million of which are reportedly garments made in a
MacArthur Foundation, 2017). brands (3%) disclose the percentage, more sustainable manner
volume or number of products destroyed
As the world faces accelerating climate (typically incinerated) during the
breakdown, we cannot continue making, annual reporting period.
buying and discarding clothing at the
current and expected rates. This is
why we focused on overproduction,
overconsumption and waste as part of
this year’s Spotlight Issues.
BELOW: Cast-off woolen clothing is sorted again in

large warehouses in Panipat, Tim Mitchell
Waste, repair and recycling Meanwhile, the aim of textile-to-textile

recycling is that eventually the fibres
and textiles used in clothing will be able
Estimates suggest that around one
to be used repeatedly and for much
quarter of the industry’s resources
longer, dramatically reducing the need to
are wasted as leftovers of textile and
create new clothes from virgin resources.
garment production every year, which is
We found that 18% of brands explain
why we wanted to see how brands are
what they are doing to develop circular
publicly addressing this issue (Global
solutions that enable textile-to-textile
Fashion Agenda, 2018). We found that
recycling (innovations beyond textile
27% of brands publish information
reuse and downcycling), but only 4 brands
about the steps they’re taking to reduce
(2%) publish data on what percentage
the amount of clothing and textile waste
or number of products are designed to
created during production. This waste
enable closed loop or textile-to-textile
might include textile or product off-
recycling at end of the product's life.
cuts, unsold and defective stock and
production samples, and 11% of brands
Since the outbreak of coronavirus, retail
are reporting on their progress to reduce
stores across the world have been
this pre-consumer production waste.
forced to shut their doors and lay off or
furlough staff, meaning clothes are going
When it comes to post-consumer
unsold. By the time stores reopen these
waste, we found that 30% of brands
products may well be considered ‘out
offer their customers a permanent,
of season’. This begs this question: what
year-round clothing take-back and
will happen to all of these perfectly good
in-store recycling scheme, and only
materials? Will they be sold, reused, given
16% of brands offer and advertise repair
to charities, go to landfill, be incinerated,
services to their customers in order to
recycled? The fashion industry already
help extend the life of their products.
has a huge overproduction and waste
Considering that British households
problem. And, technology is simply not
threw away 300,000 tonnes of clothing in
yet available to recycle textiles in a truly
2016 (WRAP 2017), it is surprising that so
circular way and at scale. It is concerning
few brands seem to be working to keep
that the consequences of the pandemic
these products out of landfill through
may make this problem even worse.
clothing repair and take-back schemes.
5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES
ANALYSIS
COMPOSITION Plastics Hazardous chemicals
Using more sustainable materials Every time someone washes a garment Some of the toxic chemicals used in
made of synthetic materials, especially clothing, including lead (dyes), NPE
polyester, tiny particles of plastic – too (industrial washing), phthalates (printing),
Several major brands are taking steps
small to be caught by conventional water PFC compounds (water-repellent coating)
to use more sustainable materials such
treatment – enter our water systems, and formaldehyde (wrinkle-resistance
as ‘better' and organic cotton, recycled
ending up in rivers, lakes and oceans. treatment), can potentially cause serious
polyester and wool, traceable down and
Up to 700,000 microfibres can shed from health problems. Considering that the
chrome-free leather. The use of these
our clothes in a typical wash (Napper and textile industry is a significant contributor
materials are often what makes up
Thompson, 2016). As a result, textiles are to water pollution globally through the
brands’ seasonal collections marketed as
now the largest source of global primary lack of proper disposal of chemicals,
‘sustainable’ or ‘conscious.’ However, we
microplastic pollution and have even we were surprised to see that less than
found that less than half of brands (42%)
been detected in the deepest parts of a quarter of brands (24%) publish a
publish a time-bound and measurable
the ocean (Boucher and Friot, 2017). We time-bound commitment or roadmap
strategy or roadmap (including targets)
expected brands to be addressing this towards eliminating the use of hazardous
on the use of more sustainable materials.
alarming issue, but we found that only a chemicals in products, and 19% of brands
Meanwhile, 36% of brands report annually
fifth of brands (20%) publish information are reporting progress towards achieving
on progress toward achieving these
about what the brand is doing to minimise these goals. When brands are taking
sustainable material use targets, up from
the impact of microfibres. When it comes steps to mitigate the use of hazardous
29% in 2019.
to reducing the use of plastic more chemicals in their products, it’s usually
generally, we found that 27% of brands as part of regulatory obligations such
publish measurable, time-bound targets as REACH in the EU or through multi-
for the reduction of the use of virgin stakeholder initiatives like the ZDHC
plastics (including plastic-based textiles, Roadmap to Zero.
accessories, hangers, packaging).
5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES
ANALYSIS
Science Based Targets, which means Just 7 brands (3%) are mapping Water use
CLIMATE their environmental goals are aligned environmental impacts directly to their
with the Paris Agreement’s aim to limit financial performance. For example, 52% of brands publish a company policy
Carbon emissions global heating to below 2°C above pre- Kering Group (Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, on water use, and 42% publish a supplier
industrial levels. Gucci, Saint Laurent) publish a highly policy on water use, up from 36% of
Considering that climate breakdown is detailed Environmental Profit and Loss brands in 2019. However, considering that
accelerating and the world’s foremost 58% of brands publish annual carbon report, which utilises a sophisticated a global water crisis has been ranked
scientists say we have about a decade to emissions in their owned and operated natural capital accounting methodology. in the top 5 global risks (WEF, 2020), it is
mitigate the most catastrophic impacts of facilities (e.g. head office, retail stores, On top of this, Kering Group freely shares surprising to see little progress when it
global heating, we would have expected distribution centres, warehouses, transport their methodology, welcoming and comes to brands disclosing water usage
fashion brands and retailers to be moving and mail orders, etc.), but only 16% of encouraging other companies to use it. data, especially at a raw material level.
much more swiftly towards net-zero brands publish annual carbon emissions However, other brands do not seem to be There has been no increase in water
carbon emissions. produced within their supply chains — taking advantage of this innovative open- footprint disclosure at any level. 31% of
where the highest proportion of carbon is source methodology, which has been brands publish the annual water footprint
Dozens of brands have recently joined the emitted across the lifecycle of a garment. freely available since 2015. in their owned and operated facilities
UN Fashion Industry Charter on Climate (e.g. head office, retail stores, distribution
Action and the G7 Fashion Pact to achieve We anticipate seeing more disclosure Limiting deforestation is also a crucial part centres, warehouses, etc.). 14% of brands
this goal by 2050. Meanwhile, a 2018 on brands' efforts to reduce carbon of mitigating global carbon emissions. publish the annual water footprint at
report from the World Health Organisation emissions next year as more brands join Considering recent public outcry about manufacturing and/or processing facility
predicted that an additional 250,000 deaths the G7 Fashion Pact and the UN Fashion the destruction of the Amazon and the level within the supply chain, and only
a year will occur between 2030 and 2050 Industry Charter. wildfires that ravaged Australia, it is 4% publish this information at fibre
due to global heating, and too many shocking that only 4 brands out of 250 production and/or raw material level.
fashion brands continue to say little about 36% of brands publish the percentage of (2%) publish a time-bound, measurable
the steps they are taking to drastically renewable energy used in the company’s commitment to zero deforestation —
reduce their environmental impacts. owned and operated facilities (e.g. head meaning that no forest areas are cleared or
office, retail stores, distribution centres, converted. Whereas, zero net deforestation
78% of brands publish a company policy warehouses, etc.), but only 6% of brands allows for the clearance or conversion of
on energy use and carbon emissions, publish this information within the forests in one area as long as an equal
while 52% publish a supplier policy on this supply chain. area is replanted elsewhere.
topic. However, only 16% of brands publish
VIEWPOINT:
HOW TO SURVIVE A PANDEMIC:
GARMENT WORKERS IN COVID-19
GARMENT WORKER CENTER
"Last week, I made "Me and my mom are told

4,500 masks and the company is closed but
made $230 total, that’s not true. Me and mom
that is 5 cents a are not working. We are not
mask." [able to] pay rent right now. "
Santiago, Paulina
Father of six children Produced for Fashion Nova
For too long, the fashion industry has In the time of COVID-19, garment workers Many brands are restructuring their Transparency is a crucial first step for
profited by making garment workers are finally recognized as essential labor local supply chains to win government industry accountability. For the fashion
invisible. Popular brands and retailers because we alone have the necessary contracts that require some transparency industry to survive this crisis, brands
earn PR points for selling “Made in skills to produce personal protection into working conditions and safety must #PayUp. They must ensure to pay
USA” goods, but lack of transparency equipment (PPE). At the same time, 45,000 practices. But more can be done. their contracts with manufacturers and
in production supply chains and garment workers in Los Angeles are ensure that manufacturers pay garment
purposefully opaque purchasing largely out of work with no safety net to Alongside the International Labor workers because our labor has always
practices enable them to deny rely on, while others cannot afford the Rights Forum and supported by 31 been essential.
accountability for horrendous working loss of income and have to work despite other organizations including Fashion
conditions and massive wage theft the risks, with little to no health protection Revolution USA, we are urging companies This is why we launched the GWC
commonly experienced by members of or assurance of fair wages. to implement and report back on their Emergency Relief Fund because many
the Garment Worker Center. workers’ rights and health protection. brands still fail to take accountability even
in an unprecedented pandemic.
4
FINAL
THOUGHTS &
RECOMMENDATIONS
TAKE ACTION ON
TRANSPARENCY
Brands and Retailers In the next 12 months, we urge major Governments & In the next 12 months, we urge major
brands and retailers to: Policymakers brands and retailers to:
We call on major brands and
retailers to be more transparent Publicly disclose your suppliers Better policies and Invest in better implementing and
about your social and environmental starting with the first tier, but don’t regulations, with more enforcing existing laws and
policies, practices and impacts. stop there. Map and publicly effective implementation and policies that are meant to protect
disclose your full supply chain, enforcement, are needed fashion’s supply chain workers
We call on brands and retailers to right down to raw material level. to transform environmental and the environment.
publish this information in a way that sustainability and respect for
is easily accessible, understandable, In response to the coronavirus Ratify ILO Convention 190:
human rights in the global
honest and comprehensive. pandemic, honour your contracts Eliminating violence and
fashion industry.
and commit to supporting your harassment in the world of work.
You have the power, resources and suppliers and supply chain workers
A few fashion brands and Put mandatory human rights and
moral imperative to ensure that in this time of crisis. Publish more
retailers are leading on environmental due diligence on
every single person working in your information about your purchasing
transparency and making the legislative agenda and move
value chain is paid fairly, treated practices.
moves towards being more towards proposing, passing and
with dignity and working in safe sustainable and responsible,
conditions. To address the urgent Publish more information about adopting this legislation. Make
but the vast majority of brands sure it includes liability for a
climate crisis, you must move faster your environmental impacts,
are doing and disclosing very company’s contribution to harms
to reduce the consumption of earth’s including the amount of carbon
little. These laggards won’t move caused in the global supply chain.
finite resources and shift to business emissions, water consumption,
without being forced to do so
models that are regenerative instead pollution and waste created across
through legislation.
of destructive and linear. your value chain, and explain what
you’re doing to conserve and
By being more transparent about regenerate resources.
your policies, practices and impacts,
your customers and stakeholders Answer your customers’
can come along with you on that #WhoMadeMyClothes requests on
journey, support you in making social media or via email with
that change and ensure you are practical information and data, not
accountable for your impacts. just your policies and principles.
TAKE ACTION ON
TRANSPARENCY
"Transparency is the first
step towards a different
culture, one where
brands become open
Citizens and accountable, and
We encourage you to demand that You have the right to know that your customers are ready to
major brands and retailers are more
become vigilant and ask,
hard-earned money is not supporting
transparent. Always ask the brands you exploitation, human rights abuses and
buy #WhoMadeMyClothes You can do environmental destruction. But there is
‘who made my clothes?"

this by tagging your favourite brands on no way to hold brands and governments
social media and using this hashtag, or to account if information about what we
you can use our automated email tool buy is kept secret.
to get in touch with them directly.
Write to your elected officials and urge
Why ask this question? Because it them to require brands and retailers to
sends brands a strong message -- you be more transparent about how their Orsola de Castro,
care about the way your clothes have clothes are made. Tell your government Co-founder, Fashion Revolution
been made and want the assurance that they should make companies legally
that the people making them have been responsible for the impacts they have on
paid fairly, treated with dignity and the environment and the lives of people
that the environment wasn’t destroyed working in their supply chains, at home
in the process. We promise you that and abroad. You can do this using our
brands are listening, so use your voice write a postcard to a policymaker tool.
and tell them to be more transparent.
THANK YOU!
We extend the utmost gratitude A very heartfelt thanks to our brilliant As always, the biggest thanks to the We would like to thank you for reading this
to our pro bono consultation freelance research team without Fashion Revolution team – especially report and to take this opportunity to remind
committee, who have been whom this report would not have Carry Somers and Emily Sear, you that Fashion Revolution is a charitable
instrumental in guiding our team been possible – Nicky Allan, Clara Bronwyn Seier and Maria Maleh for organisation. This means that everything we do
through this project each year – Buckens, Altaire Cambata, Ysabl their beautiful and clever design is made possible by support from grants and
Dr. Mark Anner, Neil Brown, Ian Cook, Dobles, Rachel Hartley, Michelle Lai, and branding talent. Thanks to all donations from people like you.
Subindu Garkhel, Kristian Hardiman, Lisa Schneider, Lian Sing and of Fashion Revolution’s Country
Christina Hajagos-Clausen, Jenny Manon Thomas. Coordinators, who brilliantly and By making a small donation, you will be making
Holdcroft, Aruna Kashyap, Kate effectively power the movement. a big difference to Fashion Revolution's important
Larsen, Dr. Alessandra Mezzadri, We would also like to thank the work demanding a cleaner, safer, fairer, and more
Katie Shaw, Francois Souchet, Joe representatives from the brands Big thanks also to our PR company transparent fashion industry.
Sutcliffe and Ben Vanpeperstraete. and retailers who participated in Alfred and Maria Nishio at Central
An absolutely enormous thank you to the Fashion Transparency Index this Saint Martin’s. And finally, thank It’s easy to do. Please visit the donate page on
all the others who provided informal year. We know that brands receive you to Laudes Foundation and the our website where you can choose to donate
feedback on the methodology and frequent requests for information European Commission for your any amount, or even opt to make a regular
report — you know who you are! from civil society and NGOs, and it’s generous support. monthly donation:
difficult to respond to them all and
We would like to give a special still get work done. Your participation www.fashionrevolution.org/donate
thanks to our allies, advisors and is both vital and appreciated.
collaborators at Better Buying, With your help, we can continue to create resources
CARE International, Ellen MacArthur such as the Fashion Transparency Index, spark an
Foundation, Fairtrade Foundation, even wider global conversation about the impacts of
Fair Trade Advocacy Office, Good On our clothes and create positive change. Thank you!
You, Greenpeace, IndustriALL, Open
Apparel Registry, Traidcraft Exchange,
Transparency Pledge, Transparentem,
University of Plymouth, Wikirate,
among others.
Fashion Revolution Foundation: Registered Charity in England & Wales No. 1173421;
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ANNEX 1:
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a Global Evaluation of Sources. IUCN (2017). Available
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documents/2017-002-En.pdf
Available at: https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/ https://www.smallbusinesscommissioner.gov.uk/ppc/
Accenture Strategy and UN Global Compact. CEO Study sdgs European Commission. Registration, Evaluation,
The Better Buying Initiative (2020). Available at: https://
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bangladeshworkersafety.org/factory/reports-caps
ANNEX 2:
DEFINITIONS & ABBREVIATIONS
Auditing is the process of reviewing a company's Freedom of Association is the right of individuals Microfibres are fibres that are shed from clothing Restricted Substance List sets out the specific
finances, working conditions, and environmental and workers to form and join groups of their own during production, consumer use, or end of life, chemicals substances that are not allowed to be
practices. It uncovers risks to workers' safety choosing in order to take collective action to and end up as pollution in the environment. used in products or manufacturing processes.
and opportunities to improve working conditions. pursue the interest of the members of the group. Microfibres from synthetic clothing (such as Typical hazardous substances that are restricted
(Source: Walk Free Foundation) (Source: ILO) polyester) are the largest source of primary include lead, AZO dyes, DMF, PAHs, Phthalates,
microplastics polluting our oceans. Microplastics PFOS, the nickel release and so on.
Circularity (or Circular Economy) is an alternative Forced labour is any work or service which people are any plastic particles smaller than 5mm. (Source: CIRS-REACH)
to a traditional linear economy (make, use, dispose) are forced to do against their will, through the (Source: IUCN)
in which we keep resources in use for as long as use of violence or intimidation, or by more subtle Sex-disaggregated data is information which
possible, extract the maximum value from them means such as accumulated debt, retention Pre-consumer waste is generated by textile and is measured and separated according to
whilst in use, then recover and regenerate products of identity papers or threats of denunciation to clothing manufacturers during any stage of the gender. It allows comparisons on outcomes
and materials at the end of each service life. immigration authorities. Forced labour is the most production clothing. Pre-consumer wastes include between women and men on specific topics
(Source: WRAP) common element of modern slavery. textile scraps after the cutting of garment pieces, and brands measuring and providing it will
(Source: ILO and Anti-Slavery International) leftover textile samples, selvedges, end-of-roll increase the visibility of women and the issues
Collective bargaining is a process where employers wastes, damaged materials, part-finished or they face across supply chains. (Source: BSR)
and unions negotiate to determine fair wages and Gender pay gap is defined as the difference in finished clothing samples from the design and
working conditions. (Source: ILO) production department. (Source: Dobilaite et al., 2017) Supply chain / value chain refers to all the steps
median pay between men and women.
it takes to produce and sell a product, from farm to
(Source: Office for National Statistics)
Due diligence is a process through which closet. (Source: OECD)
Purchasing practices refers to a company’s
companies assesses their impacts on human Grievance mechanism is a complaint process process of buying goods and services. Wet processing facilities are involved
rights and the environment and then take actions that can be used by workers, allowing them to This might include activities such as planning in the production of clothing whose activities
to reduce any negative impacts. (Source: United voice concerns about working conditions without and forecasting, design and development, cost typically involve rinsing, bleaching, dyeing,
Nations Global Compact)
fear of punishment  or retribution. (Source: Verité) negotiation, sourcing and placing orders, production printing, treating or coating fabric and
management and payment and terms. laundering. (Source: Garment Merchandising blog)
Downcycling is to recycle something in such a (Source: Better Buying)
Living wage is a wage a worker earns in a
way that the resulting product is of a lower value
standard working week that is enough to provide
than the original item. Examples include recycling Remediation is the action of fixing something,
for them and their family's basic needs - including
textiles into building insulation, rags, or carpet particularly reversing or stopping environmental
food, housing, clothing, education and healthcare.
underlay. (Source: Merriam Webster) damage or human rights abuses. A Corrective Action
(Source: Clean Clothes Campaign)
Plan is an agreement with a supplier on what needs
Equal pay means that men and women in the to be remedied, when it is to be done, and who is
Materiality Assessment is an exercise designed
same employment performing equal work responsible for which tasks. (Source: ETI Norway)
to gather insights on the relative importance of
must receive equal remuneration. This applies
specific environmental, social and governance
not only to salary, but to all contractual terms
(ESG) issues. The insight is most commonly used
and conditions of employment, such as holiday
to inform sustainability reporting and strategic
entitlement, bonuses, pay and reward schemes,
planning. (Source: Greenbiz)
pension payments and other benefits.
(Source: Equality and Human Rights Commission)
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FASHION

Up 2 percentage points since 2019 (200 brands)

TOP 10 SCORES LOWEST SCORING TOP 10 MOVERS

H&M (H&M Group) 73% Bally 0 Monsoon +23

32% 2018 2017

Adidas/Reebok 58% Adidas/Reebok 49%

24% Puma 56% Marks & Spencer 48%

19% H&M (H&M Group) 55% H&M (H&M Group) 48%

18% Esprit 54% Puma 46%

14% Gap 54% Gap 46%

Suppliers of raw materials

“The hidden and

forgotten dwell in the

[BOTTOM] 2019, A mourner of a victim

WEIGHTING 18.8% 4.8% 31.6% 25.2% 19.6%

HOW THE RESEARCH

• Nicky Allan Mid-March Mid-February Early February

Late March Early to mid-April

HOW BRANDS AND

SELECTED 45% 53%

A-Z OF BRANDS  = participated in brand questionarire

THE FINAL SCORES

FINAL SCORE (%)

52% 29% 16% 17% 15%

1. POLICY & COMMITMENTS

• Downloadable documents where the

1. POLICY & COMMITMENTS

1. POLICY & COMMITMENTS

Company policies Forced & Bonded Labour 166 229

Procedures Harassment & Abuse 87 172 213

Discrimination 106 199 219

Working Hours & Rest Breaks 98 100 204

Freedom of Association, Right to Organise & Collective Bargaining 93 99 212

Anti-bribery, Corruption, & Presentation of False Information 121 188 195

Equal Pay 84 123 153

Overtime Pay 45 185

Sub-contracting, Outsourcing & Homeworkers 61 174

Living Conditions/Dormitories 40 158

Energy & Carbon Emissions 130 194 198

Notice Period, Dismissal & Disciplinary Action 39 67 143

Contracts & Terms of Employment 39 53 137

Water Effluents & Treatment 119 121

Waste & Recycling (Packaging/Office/Retail) 29 111 110 136 187 188

Water Usage & Footprint 104 130 152

Foreign & Migrant Labour 106 107

Annual Leave & Public Holidays 49 86 106

Biodiversity 41 46 53 81 124 143

Maternity Rights & Parental Leave 72 88 107

Community Engagement 42 206 220

Waste & Recycling (Product/Textiles) 29 111 136

Animal Welfare 131 134

Diversity & Inclusion 147 182

1. POLICY & COMMITMENTS

ANIMAL WELFARE BIODIVERSITY & CONSERVATION COMMUNITY ENGAGEMENT

54% 52% 32% 57% 82% 17%

DIVERSITY & INCLUSION FREEDOM OF ASSOCIATION FORCED & BONDED LABOUR

73% 59% 85% 37% 92% 66%

1. POLICY & COMMITMENTS

CHILD LABOUR EMPLOYEE WAGES WORKER HEALTH CODES OF CONDUCT RSL

1. POLICY & COMMITMENTS

Who in the company is

64% 14% 43% 40%

Are major brands and retailers

40% 36% 30% 14% 4% 25%