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Greening of the Textile and Clothing Industry

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Selin Hanife Eryuruk Greening of the Textile and Clothing Industry
Department of Textile Engineering, Abstract
Textile Technologies and Design Faculty, Today consumers are becoming more aware of the need to protect the environment, and
Istanbul Technical University, companies use these terms to promote their goods or services with eco-labels. Environmen-
Istanbul, Turkey tally friendly (also eco-friendly, nature friendly, and green) are terms used to refer to goods
E-mail: eryuruk@itu.edu.tr and services, laws, guidelines and policies claiming to inflict minimal or no harm on the
environment. Clothing is an integral part of our lives and green or environmental concerns
have started to draw more and more attention in the textile and clothing sector . This paper
analysed how green the textile and clothing industry is with respect to the product lifecycle,
from raw material through the design, production and logistics up to disposal in order to
point out important points and parameters for greening the industry.

Key words: green, environmentally friendly, eco-friendly, textile industry, apparel industry.

management drivers (organisational sup- gating raw materials in g/kg according


port, social capital and government in- to renewable or non-renewable, investi-
volvement) and GSCM practices (green gating water consumption in kg-1 (fibre
n Introduction purchasing, cooperation with customers, consumption or industrial processing),
eco-design and investment recovery [13]. controlling industrial emissions to air in
Globalisation results in both pressure
Zabaniotou and Andreou presented a pa- g/kg and industrial emissions to water in
and drivers for all countries and enter-
per concerning a feasibility study for en- g/kg, analysing the use of harmful sub-
prises in the world that are trying to im-
ergy recovery from cotton ginning waste stances (during fibre production or indus-
prove their environmental performances.
with greenhouse gas emissions reduc- trial processing), evaluating the working
Global pollution and increased aware-
tion in a textile plant located in Northern environment in the aspect of noise level
ness are prompting consumers to seek
Greece [14]. Hashem et al. investigated and temperature [25].
healthier living choices. ‘Green’ princi-
a novel approach for upgrading both the
ples and strategies have become vital for
wrinkle free and softness properties of In many previous approaches, research-
companies as public awareness of their
cotton fabrics without adversely affect- ers have studied green logistics and sup-
environmental impacts has increased.
ing their strength properties using eco- ply chain management, they evaluating
Today consumers are increasingly health
friendly finishing regimes [15]. Mirjalili a specific subject or solution for textile
conscious and actively support greener
et al. studied the extraction of dyes from applications. This paper presents some
lifestyles. Green clothing (also known as
natural clothing, eco friendly) provides weld using soxhlet apparatus[16]. Ren of the earliest issues related to the green
consumers with healthier and more envi- developed environmental performance or eco-friendly textile and apparel indus-
ronmentally friendly apparel choices [1]. indicators and identified the best achieva- try. Moreover it is identifies and clarifies
Environmentally friendly (also eco- ble values for cotton woven products and what green means and analyses the cur-
friendly, nature friendly, and green) are wet processing [17]. Wrona investigated rent situation in the world regarding the
terms used to refer to goods and services, popular eco-labels used in different coun- green textile and apparel industry. Also
laws, guidelines and policies claiming to tries all over the world [18]. Koszewska presents important greening parameters
inflict minimal or no harm on the envi- evaluated the importance of socio and and analyses the textile and clothing
ronment [2]. ecocertification and labelling for meeting product life-cycle with respect to green
buyers’ expectations of textile and cloth- definition.
Green or environmental concerns are ing products [19]. Atilgan investigated
also drawing more and more attention environmental regulations and their ef-
Green aspects in the textile
in academia and there are many studies fects on the Turkish Textile Industry[20].
He also researched structures concerning
and clothing industry
in literature including the word “green”.
There are lots of earlier works focussing eco-labels in EU countries that Turkey is Eco friendly clothing is created from re-
especially on green logistics and green aiming to integrate [21]. As a strategic sources that are environmentally friendly
supply chain subjects [3 - 10]. When solution, Eryuruk aimed to evaluate a and sustainable. Consideration is given to
the green textile and apparel industry is logistic center establishment as a com- the product’s total life span as well as its
considered, it is seen that there have not petitive strategy to gain advantages like impact on the planet, in other words, the
been enough studies conducted in this time, cost and customer satisfaction for carbon footprint [1]. Eco friendly cloth-
area. Moore and Ausley presented an ex- Turkish clothing producers in Istanbul, ing is created from resources that are en-
ample to increase productivity through Turkey [22 - 24]. vironmentally friendly and sustainable,
greener production induced by coopera- and efficient management of obtaining
tive stakeholder actions [11]. Wang et al. Important indicators of eco-labelling sys- green clothing requires to consider all
used fuzzy logic with the analytic hier- tems for textile products were studied by stages, starting from designing for the
archy process to form a selection (deci- Nieminen et al. and a simple structure environment, obtaining raw materials,
sion-making) model for different green was developed as a base for labelling. producing garments, distributing them
initiatives in the fashion industry [12]. These are energy consumption (MJ/kg) to the channels, stores and also consid-
Wu et al. studied Taiwan’s textile and ap- levels during fibre production, spinning, ering their reverse logistics and waste.
parel manufacturers and investigated the weaving/knitting, wet processing; deter- Figure 1 shows the stages of the textile
relationships between green supply chain mining transportation in km/kg, investi- product life-cycle and environmental im-

22 Eryuruk SH. Greening of the Textile and Clothing Industry.


FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012; 20, 6A(95): 22-27.
Water Water
Energy Energy Water Energy Water Energy
INPUTS Chemicals Labor Chemicals Labor Energy Labor Labor Labor Energy Labor Labor
Labor Energy Labor Energy Labor Energy Energy Labor Energy

Clothing Green operations


Textile material - Reverse logistics
production stage production
stage - Waste man
- Spinning Distribution
- Spreading Retailing Transport agement
- Knitting center
Raw material Transport Transport - Cutting Transport Transport - Reuse
- Weaving /wholesaler
- Embroidery - Reprocessing
- Finishing - Reducing
- Accessories - Prinding
- Packaging - Recycling
production Product/material
recovery

Waste
OUTPUTS CO2

Figure 1. Textile product life-cycle and environmental impacts.

pacts. Along the product life-cycle there Raw material bres (Figure 2) [27]. Organic clothing is
are many key inputs and key outputs that One of the largest polluters in the world made from organic fibres grown without
are very important in the green life-cycle is the textile industry. At least 8,000 both exposure to toxins and irreversible
procedure. Green aspects in the textile chemicals are used to manufacture raw environmental damage. Sustainable agri-
and clothing indstry will be evaluated materials into our clothing and linens. culture is a renewable resource, with the
along the product-life cycle. Seven of the top fifteen pesticides used main idea being that the earth’s natural
in non-organic cotton growing methods resources are not exhausted.The focus is
Design are considered as „possible”, „likely”, to have a minimal long-term effect on the
or „known” carcinogens. According to environment. Key factors of sustainable
Life cycle assessment (LCA) is used to
the World Health Organization, 20,000 clothing are the fibre source and renew-
forecast the impacts of different produc-
deaths occur annually in developing ability without the use of agro-chemicals,
tion alternatives of a product to able to hormones, and pesticides, along the en-
countries from the poisons in pesticides
choose the most environmentally friend- tire manufacturing process from raw fi-
that are used in crops. Growing cot-
ly one. Today designers must compare bre to textile [1].
ton alone uses about one-quarter of the
several different products according to
world’s insecticides [1].
several categories, such as energy use, Processing
toxicity, acidification, CO2 emissions, Synthetic fabrics and clothing fibres The process of textile production in-
ozone depletion, resource depletion and processed with heavy chemical agents volves the use of further toxic chemi-
many others. By comparing different are facing a declining popularity because cals which are often bonded to the fab-
products, designers can make decisions of the harmful effects on our planet and ric fibres by use of heat. Many of these
about which environmental hazard to fo- our health. Organic textiles are healthy, chemicals leave residues that can never
cus on in order to make the product more natural, breathable, and were grown be washed out. They are used for fabric
environmentally friendly [26]. This caus- without cancer producing pesticide and treatments such as bleaching, straighten-
es the minimisation of waste and hazard- insecticide.Today many companies of- ing, sizing, shrink resistance, anti-static
ous by-products, air pollution, energy fer their customers products made from and wrinkle reduction, stain and odour
expenditure and other factors. organic cotton, hemp, bamboo or soy fi- resistance, fireproofing and moth-proof-

a) b) c) d)

Figure 2. Environmentally friendly fibres; a) hemp, b) organic cotton, c) bamboo, d) soy [27].

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 6A (95) 23
ing, disinfectants, mildew prevention and include repair/refurbish and disassembly space. Certain synthetic fibre products do
dyes [1]. [31]. Waste management is the manage- not decompose, while natural fibre such
ment of waste generation and its impacts as wool does decompose but produces
Moreover a finite source water is used through activities such as source reduc- methane, which contributes to global
at every step of the textile process, be- tion, pollution prevention and disposal. warming. The second advantage is re-
coming full of chemicals, which in turn Marguglio defined waste minimisation ducing pressure on virgin resources. This
pollutes the environment via the efflu- as reducing hazardous waste generated includes materials traditionally used in
ent’s heat, through its increased pH, and during production and operations, and textiles, such as cotton or wool, as well as
because it is saturated with dyes, de- afterwards treating, storing or disposing oil and other chemicals employed to pro-
foamers, bleaches, detergents, optical wastes. Source reduction and pollution duce synthetic fibres. Reducing pollution
brighteners, equalisers and many other prevention strategies try to hinder pol- as well as water and energy consumption
chemicals used during the process. We lution at the genration source, while dis- and reducing the demand for dyes and
breathe chemicals that evaporate into the posal is intended to dispose waste after fixing agents are other advantages [35].
air or are absorbed through our skin from its generation [32].
raditionally produced fabrics that contain More than a million tons of textiles are
residuals of chemicals used during their Textile waste can be classified as either thrown away each year, most of which
manufacture [28]. pre-consumer or post-consumer. Pre- by households rather than industry
consumer textile waste consists of by- (Figures 3 & 4). Today many recycling
Also packaging is very important, and product materials from the textile, fi- centers, charities and collection projects
the materials of which used mustt be bre and cotton industries. This waste is accept textile goods. Clothing, shoes,
environmentally friendly. This can be recycled into new raw materials for the blankets, curtains and other items made
achieved through the reuse of shipping automotive, furniture, mattress, coarse from fabric can be reused if they are in
products, the elimination of unneces- yarn, home furnishings, paper and good condition, or converted into new
sary paper and packaging products, the other industries. Post-consumer textile products if they are damaged or worn
efficient use of materials and space, the waste consists of any type of garments [36]. Approximately 50% of all textiles
use of recycled and/or recyclable materi- or household articles discarded either collected are reused and 50% are recy-
als. The end-of-life of a product is very because they are worn out, damaged, cled. In many African countries, over
important because some products emit outgrown, or have gone out of fashion. 80% of the population dress themselves
dangerous chemicals into the air, ground They are sometimes given to charities in second-hand clothing. In order to see
and water after they are disposed of in a but more typically are disposed of in the the environmental advantages resulting
landfill [29]. trash and end up in municipal landfills from the collection of used clothing, a
[33]. Textile scrap categories can be clas- study was conducted by the University of
Green operations sified as cotton, wool, jute, sisal and bur- Copenhagen in 2008. By collecting 1 kg
The main application of green opera- lap, polyurethane foam, nylon, synthetic of used clothing, one can reduce 3.6 kg
tions is improving an existing product or textile scrap, carpet scrap, rags and wip- of CO2 emissions,  6000 l of water con-
process. These operations include manu- ers, used and recycled bags, used cloth- sumption, 0.3 kg of the use of fertilisers
facturing and remanufacturing , reverse ing, used footwear, leather scrap, textile and  0.2 kg of the use of pesticides [35].
logistics, network design and waste man- recycling employment and other textile
agement. The main goal of green manu- scrap. The average lifetime of any cloth- Recycling
facturing is to reduce the environmental ing is deemed to be for about 3 years, The recycling process starts with sort-
impacts of a product by using proper ma- after which they are thrown away as old ing collected textiles according to their
terial [30]. Green manufacturing includes clothes [34]. condition and the types of fibres used.
activities such as reducing and recycling; Unwearable textiles are sold to the
while remanufacturing includes reus- Reusing ‘flocking’ industry for shredding and
ing and product/material recovery. Also There are important benefits of recov- re-spinning. These textiles are first re-
green manufacturing and remanufactur- ering and recycling textiles, both envi- sorted according to their type and colour.
ing requires inventory management, pro- ronmental and economical. The first ad- The colour sorting means no re-dying is
duction planning and scheduling besides vantage is reducing the need for landfill needed to save energy and avoids pollut-
the usual planning due to varying and
unknown amounts of products returned
for recycling.

Reducing is a technique in which the con-


sumption rate of scarce materials and/or
energy is minimised. Recycling refers to
activities performed to recover material
from products. Reusing is the concept
of using intact parts of used products
for manufacturing activities. Product/
material recovery refers to activities
performed to regain the product value at
the end of its lifecycle. These activities Figure 3. Textile recycling [37]. Figure 4. Textile reuse [38].

24 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 6A (95)
ants. Then textile materials are shredded as“the process of planning, implement- freight flows and determine the rate of
or pulled into fibres and depending on ing and controlling the efficient, cost ef- inventory rotation in warehouses.
the end use of the yarn, other fibres may fective flow of raw materials, in-process 4. Functional decisions relating to the
be incorporated. The blended mixture is inventory, finished goods and related in- management of logistical resources
carded to clean and mix the fibres. The formation from the point of consumption
yard is re-spun ready for later weaving to the point of origin for the purpose of Logistic activities are responsible for
or knitting.  Depending on the final ap- recapturing value or proper disposal.” much of the environmental cost associat-
plication, fibres sometimes do not need RL activities vary form product/indus- ed with modern retailing. Environmental
to be spun into yarns; they can simply be try to product industry, but common effects of green logistics can be divided
compressed to create new textile fillings. activities are collection, transportation, into six categories [44].
In the case of polyester-based materi- inspection/sorting, storage, reprocessing 1. Greenhouse gas emmission (GHG)s:
als, recycling starts by cutting the gar- (including recycling, reusing, repairing) Numerous gases have a global warm-
ments into small pieces. The shredded and/or disposal. ing effect with different degrees. Can-
fabric is then granulated and turned into bon dioxide is produced by burning of
polyester chips, which are are melted Green procurement is another subject fussil fuels in vehicles and power gen-
and spun into new filament fibres used important in the green supply chain. Burt eration. It is the most important GHG
to make new polyester fabrics. Knitted and Pinkerton [41] defined procurement emitted by retailers. Also temperature
or woven woollen and similar materi- as the process of “Deciding what,when control equipment releases refrigerant
als are reused by the textile industry in and how much to purchase; the act of gases that can have a global warming
applications such as car insulation, roof- purchasing it; and the process of en- potential thousands of times greater
ing felt, loudspeaker cones, panel linings suring that what is required is received than CO2. Some large retailers meas-
and furniture padding. Cotton and silk is on time, and in the quantity and qual- ured their “carbon footprints” , for ex-
used to manufacture paper and to wipe ity specified”. Procurement activities ample Marks&Spencer has estimated
and polish cloths for a range of industries include inventory management, identifi- that its logistics activities comprise
from the automotive to the mining sec- ying requirements, determining require- approximately 11% of its total CO2
tor. Other types of textiles can be reproc- ment specifications, finding appropriate emissions.
essed into fibres for upholstery, insula- suppliers, contract negotiation and man- 2. Noxious gases: These gases are nitro-
tion, and even building materials [35]. agement (price, amount, quality,delivery
gen oxide, sulphur dioxide and par-
schedules etc.), receiving, quality inspec-
ticulate matter, (PM10) affecting local
Green logistics tion, storage and inbound distiribution.
air quality, human health, vegetation
Green procurement tries to minimise the
For industries with lower margins, such and buildings negatively.
enviromental impacts of selected prod-
as the clothing industry, green supply 3. Noise: This is caused by mainly vehi-
ucts and services [31].
chain management can lead to lower sup- cles and distribution centers.
ply chain related costs. These cost reduc- 4. Accidents: The cost of personel inju-
It is estimated that freight transport ac-
tions can be translated into significant ry/death, any damage to property and
counts for roughly 8% of energy-related
competitive advantages and profit. Other released use of emergency services
CO2 emmission worldwide. The inclu-
benefits of green supply chain manage- sion of warehousing and goods handling deemed to be environmental costs.
ment include reducing risk, improving is likely to add around 2 - 3 percent to 5. Waste: Retail logistics operations gen-
productivity, increasing property value, this total. In the road transport sector, the erate large quantities of waste, mainly
improving public image and creating amount of energy used to move freight is in the form of packaging material.
healthier environments [31]. increasing at a faster rate than the energy Products damaged or life-expired in
consumed by cars and buses, and may the supply chain have to be rejected
Green supply chain management overtake it by the early 2020’s. Green and this can also be considered a type
(GrSCM) concepts manage environ- logistics represent the several strands of logistics-related waste. Today re-
mental impacts where they occur, ide- that are moving freight transport exter- tailers must have controls for the recy-
ally before they occur. GrSCM tries to nalities, city logistics, reverse logistics cling and reuse of packaging and other
minimise the undesireable environmental and corporate environmental strategies waste.
impacts of supply chain processes within towards logistics and green supply chain 6. Visual intrusion: Many peope dislike
the participating organisations and the management [42]. the appearance of trucks and ware-
whole supply chain as well. Srivastava houses and they believe that they re-
(2007) defined GrSCM as “integrating McKinnon and Woodburn differentiated duce quality.
environmental thinking into supply-chain four levels for green logistics [43]:
management, including product design, 1. Strategic decision relating to the num- The average grammes of CO2 emitted per
material sourcing and selection, manu- bers, locations and capacity of facto- tonne-km for a deep sea container ship,
facturing processes, delivery of the final ries, warehouses, shops and terminals. freight train, heavy truck and long haul
product to the final consumer as well as 2. Commercial decisions on product airfreight are around 14, 30, 80 and 570,
end-of-life management of the product sourcing, the subcontracting of pro- respectively. Changing freight from air or
after its useful life.” [39]. duction processes and distribution of road to rail and water-born transport can
finished goods. significantly decrease the retailer’s foot-
Reverse logistics is also a very important 3. Operational decisions on the schedul- print. Also air transport is significantly
concept, and Rogers and Tibben-Limbke ing of production and distiribution that more expensive than movement by sea,
[40] have defined reverse logistics (RL) translate the trading links into discrete but the difference in rates does not ad-

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 6A (95) 25
equately reflect the huge difference in en- the entire production life cycle from raw chain. Resources, Conservation and
vironmental costs [42]. material to the finished products. Recycling 2011; 55, 6: 567-579.
8. Zhu Q, Sarkis J, Cordeiro JJ, Lai KH.
Firm-level correlates of emergent green
The global apparel market has been As a result of this study, it can be con-
supply chain management practices in
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factors. One of the critical observations design stage, raw material selection, to 4: 577-591.
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Lodz University of Technology


Faculty of Material Technologies and Textile Design
Department of Man-Made Fibres
Research:
The Department of Man-Made Fibres has more than 50 years of history and experience in man-made fibres.
The main scientific interest of the Department can be divided into several fields: composite interactive cellulose fibres
based on NMMO, nanofibres from biodegradable polymers, advanced materials based on biodegradable polymers for
medical and technical applications, special fibres based on advanced polymers.

The Department is equipped with advanced devices for spinning solution preparation and fabrication of fibres and na-
nofibres by different methods (melt state, dry-wet, wet spinning).

Cooperation:
The Department is currently looking for partners from academia or industry.

We offer:
The Department is equipped with various devices for the determination of the properties of fibres and polymers: thermal
analysis (TGA and DSC), rheometers and devices to determine the melt flow rate, devices for determining the mechani-
cal properties of fibres (e.g. tensile tester), spectrometers (FTIR, UV-vis), optical microscopes.

For more information please contact:

Department of Man-Made Fibres


Lodz University of Technology
ul. Zeromskiego 116, 90-924 Łódź, Poland
tel.: (48) 42-631-33-59 e-mail: Piotr.Kulpinski@p.lodz.pl website: http://www.k41.p.lodz.pl/

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 6A (95) 27

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