Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

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Journal of Cleaner Production

journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/jclepro

A sustainable three-layer circular economic model with controllable waste,

emission, and wastewater from the textile and fashion industry
Ezhilarasan Peter John, Umakanta Mishra *
Department of Mathematics, School of Advanced Sciences, Vellore Institute of Technology, Vellore, 632014, India

A R T I C L E I N F O A B S T R A C T

Handling Editor: Kathleen Aviso The textile and clothing industries play a major role in greenhouse gas release, climate change, global warming,
air pollution, water pollution, and soil damage due to the landfilling of clothes. Due to fast fashion evolution and
Keywords: the unnecessary lifestyles of humans, each year more than 92 × 106 t of garment waste are produced. Only 14%
Sustainability of it is recycled, and the remaining is dumped on land. Addressing this big problem is urgently needed to protect
Three-layer
the environment and reduce the massive non-renewable resource consumption rate. In this paper, a sustainable
Circular economy
circular three-layer supply chain model consisting of a single supplier-manufacturer and multiple retailers is
Waste reduction
Wastewater treatment developed for the textile and clothing industries. Water purification technology, green technology, and carbon
Textile industry emission reduction concepts are introduced at the supplier stage, and zero waste techniques for the valorisation
of pre-consumer textile waste, green technology, and carbon emission reduction concepts are implemented at the
manufacturing stage to create sustainability in the textile and clothing industries. The profit of an integrated
model is calculated, and the profit of the supplier, manufacturer, and retailer models is calculated separately by
using the optimal solution finding algorithms in Mathematica 9.0. The concavity test of the total profit function is
proved by using the Hessian matrix. The numerical examples, managerial implications, and sensitivity analysis
are presented for the textile and clothing industries. The profit comparison results show that the integrated model
profited by around 2% more than the sum of separate profits. This study found that investing in green tech­
nologies, waste minimization, and wastewater treatment technologies resulted in a decrease in related costs and
environmental damage as well as increased profit.

1. Introduction
The emerging circular economy model is much more promising for
creating sustainability in almost all manufacturing industries because of
its sustainable product design, product life extension, and eco-friendly
approach. It mainly aims at reusing, repairing, recovering the re­
sources, and recycling the products as much as possible. In order to
understand the developments, practices, challenges, and benefits of
circular economy implementation (Geissdoerfer et al., 2020) provided
an overview of the history and innovations of the circular economic
business model and a synthesis of definitions and conceptual frame­
works. Patwa et al. (2020) investigated the adaptation and challenges of
the circular economy. Velenturf & Purnell (2021) also discussed sus­
tainable circular economic developments and proposed frameworks and
principles for the implementation of design and evaluation. Suzanne
et al. (2020) detected the assessment and measurement of the circularity
level of a company through a systematic literature review. Goyal et al.
(2021) examined the published works on circular economy between the
years 2000 and 2019. Implementing a circular economy supply chain
model in the textile and clothing industries will have a positive impact
on the environment and will increase the economy’s level. Because the
textile and clothing industries are the most polluting industries in the
world. It is consuming 1.5 × 1012 L of water, producing more than 1.7 ×
109 t of emissions, and polluting the ocean with more than 190 × 109 t
of microplastic (Peters et al., 2020). An estimated 18.6 × 106 t of gar­
ments were thrown away in landfills in the year 2020. According to the
Ellen Macarthur Foundation, landfills would be filled with more than
150 × 106 t of garment trash if the current trend persists by the year
2050. According to World Economic Forum Research, the fashion in­
dustry and its supply chain were the third biggest polluters on the globe
in 2021. Sustainability and zero waste development in the textile and
fashion industries are critically important for reducing greenhouse gas
emissions, waste generation, water consumption, and toxic water mix­
ing in rivers and oceans. There are many techniques developed for

* Corresponding author.
E-mail addresses: ezhilarasan.p2020@vitstudent.ac.in, ezhil333111@gmail.com (E. Peter John), umakanta.math@gmail.com (U. Mishra).

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2022.135642
Received 6 September 2022; Received in revised form 22 November 2022; Accepted 13 December 2022
Available online 19 December 2022
0959-6526/© 2022 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
E. Peter John and U. Mishra
wastewater treatment with the aim of reducing freshwater consumption
rates (Ahmad et al., 2022) highlighted the benefits of the nanofiltration
technique for recycling and reusing the wastewater. Panda et al. (2021)
examined wastewater treatment and energy-saving techniques like
ozonation, plasma, and microwave technology, bleaching at low tem­
peratures, and found that microwave pre-treatment is more
energy-saving. Mathew et al. (2019) introduced a many-layer green
fibre wastewater treatment method for the textile industry. Partal et al.
(2022) developed reverse osmosis, nanofiltration, and ozone oxidation
methods for recovering salt solutions and water for reusing them in the
dyeing process. Cinperi et al. (2019) experimented reverse osmosis,
membrane bioreactors, and nanofiltration techniques for the purifica­
tion and reuse of woollen textile wastewater. However, all these tech­
niques are expensive, so this paper introduces the wastewater treatment
technology with the aim of minimizing the cost of wastewater treatment
in the textile industry at the dyeing process stage, as shown in Fig. 1.
Carbon emissions in the supply chain are reduced to a certain limit by
optimal investment in green technologies (Thomas and Mishra, 2022).
Shen and Li (2019) adopted green technology for production in the
textile industry. This paper introduces green technology investment to
reduce emissions costs at the supplier and manufacturer stages. Several
research studies and sustainability models have been developed for
textile and clothing industry supply chain management. De Oliveira
Neto et al. (2019) showed how cleaner production implementation in
the textile industry gains benefits for economic growth and the envi­
ronment. Provin et al. (2021) aimed to create new textile products from
food waste by gathering information from the food and textile in­
dustries. Aus et al. (2021) summarised five years of study on upcycling
practises adopted by garment production companies. The main finding
is that, depending on the size of the company, more or less textile waste
is generated, and more than 50% of waste can be upcycled. Chen et al.
(2021) highlighted some main circular economy approaches that need
to be implemented in the textile industry and recommended renewable
Fig. 1. Sustainable three-layer supply chain model of textile and clothing industry.
2
Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642
resource creation and recycling strategies to increase the lifetime of
clothes.
In this paper, many ideas and solutions are proposed for turning
design room waste, pre-consumer cutting room scraps, and leftover
materials into innovative fashion t-shirts, pants, cloth bags, carpets, and
many more useful products, as shown in Fig. 1. The post-consumer
textile waste recycling and utilization process is shown in Fig. 1. Sta­
nescu (2021) recently presented an innovative solution for upcycling
post-consumer textile waste to achieve the zero-waste goal in the textile.
Meanwhile, in order to reduce the generation of pre-consumer waste
from textile in the cutting process, some have proposed zero-waste
cutting pattern ideas. Saeidi and Wimberley (2018) experimented by
making 3 different garments using three distinct zero-waste cutting
methods. ElShishtawy et al. (2021) explained the creative
pattern-making and cutting methods of clothes to reduce the waste
generation of the fashion industry. Niinimäki (2013) explained
zero-waste fashion practices. However, the disadvantage of the
zero-waste cutting technique is that it is more difficult and complex to
make the expected or desired designs of dresses.
However, previous research has focused on creating sustainability by
only considering any one of the following concepts in the textile in­
dustry: circular economy, CO2 reduction, green technology, waste
minimization technology, and wastewater treatment technology.
Focusing on only one concept to create sustainability will not be more
effective. Therefore, the already existing research is lacking in inte­
grating and coordinating all the environmental protection technology
concepts in the supply chain of the textile industry. Due to this, it is very
difficult to minimize the total cost and environmental damages. Given
the lack of research and sustainable model development in the fast-
growing textile and fashion industries, the objective of this research is
to create a three-layer coordinated sustainable supply chain model in the
textile and clothing industries. The main objectives of this work are.
E. Peter John and U. Mishra
• To introduce green technology investments to reduce GHG
emissions.
• To implement zero-waste technology to reduce pre- and post-
consumer textile waste.
• To implement wastewater treatment to reduce wastewater produc­
tion in the dyeing process of textile industries.
• To compare the integrated total profit with the individual total profit
of suppliers, manufacturers, and retailers.
This research will make a significant contribution to pre- and post-
consumer textile waste valorisation, carbon emission reduction, and
wastewater utilization through wastewater treatment in the fields of the
textile and apparel industries.
Section 2 presents the most relevant literature review of the research
topic. Section 3 contains the model formulation assumptions and nota­
tions. Section 4 presents the mathematical model formulation of a 3-
layer supply chain model for the textile industry consisting of one sup­
plier, one manufacturer, and retailers. Optimal circularity index and
optimal cycle time for optimal integrated total profit derivation. Section
5 provides numerical examples, solution-finding algorithms, and
optimal solution tables. The regional and 3D representations of total
profit graphs are given for the integrated model as well as individually
for suppliers, manufacturers, and retailers. Section 6 presents a results
discussion and sensitivity analysis. The last section contains the
conclusion, limitations, and directions for future research.
2. Literature review
A well-organized literature review of previous works in this field is
required to find the research developments and gaps. The articles related
to this study were collected from various databases using the following
keywords: circular economy, sustainability, recycling, reusing, inte­
grated three-layer supply chain model, closed loop supply chain, waste
minimization in the textile and clothing industries, zero-waste tech­
nology, wastewater treatment in the textile industry, green technology,
emission reduction, textiles, and the fashion industry. Using these key­
words, the related articles were downloaded from the databases and
analyzed. The most relevant papers were filtered out of the pool of pa­
pers. Fifty-seven papers from the Elsevier database, nine papers from the
Springer database, nine papers from the Taylor & Francis database, two
papers from the Nature database, and one from the Wiley Online Library
are chosen. That is illustrated in Fig. 2.
Fig. 2. Paper collection process.
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Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642
2.1. Integrated three-layer supply chain
The supply chain will help companies minimize costs, save time, and
increase their profit. Ben-Daya and Al-Nassar (2008) developed an in­
tegrated inventory production system in a 3-layer supply chain con­
sisting of many suppliers, many manufacturers, and many retailers. The
findings showed that an integer multiplier cycle time coordination sys­
tem reduced the total cost more compared to the same cycle time co­
ordination system. Ca (2007) studied how multi-stage supply chain
inventory decisions can be optimized, and also extended (Khouja, 2003)
work by adding several stages to the supply chain and obtained an
optimal solution by derivative-free methods. Ben-Daya et al. (2013)
formed an integrated production inventory for a 3-stage supply chain
consisting of only one supplier, one manufacturer, and many retailers
with reduced chain-wide total costs. Each stage’s cycle time is config­
ured to be an integer multiple of the next stage’s downstream cycle time
and implemented in the derivative-free method for solving and
solution-finding.
Cárdenas-Barrón et al. (2012) reduced the difficulty of the solution
finding process (Ben-Daya et al., 2013) by introducing a very simple
algorithm for finding decision variables, and the new algorithm also
minimized the total time and cost. Pal et al. (2012b) have created a
three-layer supply chain model with multiple suppliers, a single manu­
facturer who is producing a multi-item, and many retailers. They opti­
mized the integrated profit of the supply chain by using optimal order lot
sizes. Abdelsalam and Elassal (2014) extended the work (Ben-Daya
et al., 2013) by considering stochastic demand, variable ordering, and
holding cost. They have used many different algorithms, like; PSO, GSA,
CS, and CSS for finding the solutions. Sankar et al. (2014) developed a
three-layer supply chain with multiple suppliers, manufacturers, and
retailers. They have found that collaborating systems are better than the
Stackelberg approach for finding an optimal solution. Sarkar et al.
(2016) extended the model (Ben-Daya et al., 2013) by including variable
carbon emissions and transportation costs, and they reduced the total
supply chain total cost by using the algebraic method used to get optimal
solutions. Navarro et al. (2016) extended the work (Sarkar et al., 2016)
in a three-level supply chain with an improved manufacturing tech­
nology to include both perfect and defective production practices. This
expanded method is applied to a real-world situation in the wood and
furnishings business in Colombia’s Caribbean area. Multiple suppliers,
manufacturers, retailers, resources and goods, production levels sup­
plier, and unpredictable rates of demand based on probability density
functions are all taken into account. Rafiei et al. (2018) formed an in­
tegrated production and distribution plan in a four-echelon supply chain
with the intention of reducing costs and increasing service levels.
However, all the above-mentioned works are focused on reducing sup­
ply chain costs or increasing profit without considering environmental
impact.
2.2. Post-consumer, pre-consumer textile waste valorisation ideas and
zero-waste clothing idea
An increasing population forces the textile sector to increase pro­
duction to meet the demand for garments, which results in massive
textile waste. Such wastes are treated either by landfill disposal or by
burning, both of which harm nature. Conversion of waste into value-
added goods is critical to decreasing pollution and building a circular
economic framework through efficient waste management techniques.
Post-consumer, pre-consumer, and textile waste can be converted
into useful products like new clothes, upcycled second-hand clothes,
fashion dresses, carpets, cloth bags, new composite materials, and en­
ergy. Stanescu (2021) proposed many ideas for the valorisation of
post-consumer textile waste. Kumar et al. (2022) studied and gained an
understanding of the different forms and categories of textile waste. The
textile waste as a source of raw materials for various value-added
products. Yalcin-Enis et al. (2019) provided an excellent overview of
E. Peter John and U. Mishra
textile waste management and associated risks. The review focused
mainly on three topics: (1) the several kinds of textile waste; (2) the five
best waste management techniques; and (3) textile waste repurposing in
new product designs. To obtain general knowledge of zero waste
concept developments and practices in various fields. Zaman (2015)
presented a comprehensive review of the last two decades of zero-waste
studies done by researchers. Some more research works has already been
done on waste management in the textile industry. Kasavan et al. (2021)
analyzed the all the research works related to textile waste utilization
published from 2005 to 2020. It mainly focused on finding the devel­
opment of recycling of textile waste and wastewater treatment methods.
de Oliveira et al. (2021) explained the how textile industry supply chain
affects the environment negatively and searched for the eco-frinendly
actions and implementations can be done to save the environment.
Re- enginering idea was addressed to create environmental sustain­
ability. Yousef et al. (2019) suggested new methods for recovering
cotton from textile waste for sustainability. However, these researches
focused on utilizing either pre-consumer or post-consumer textile waste.
So, in this paper, both post-consumer and pre-consumer textile waste are
utilized, as shown in Fig. 1. Niinimäki (2013) studied the practices of
zero waste fashion in real life, and this research concentrates on how to
appreciate fabric in fashion design in a new way. The results of this study
reveal that ZWF experiments alter fashion designers’ views regarding
textile materials and that the ZWF approach creates new respect for the
materials utilized in fashion design.
Most of the pre-consumer waste of textiles is generated in the cutting
room. So, some researchers proposed the idea of a zero-waste cutting
pattern to achieve a 100% pre-consumer waste-free environment in the
textile industry. Saeidi and Wimberley (2018) experimented by making
3 different garments using three distinct zero-waste cutting methods.
The first one is a jigsaw, and the other two methods are TR (trans­
formational reconstructions). The results of this experiment showed that
the TR methods removed more fabric waste in the process of cutting
fabric to make garments. In order to find out the best zero-waste cutting
pattern method (ElShishtawy et al., 2021) gave an absolutely excellent
review that compared the research in zero-waste fashion design and
cutting & packaging to minimize material waste. They collected 22
papers published between 2010 and 2021 for this review and explained
the creative pattern-making methods like a jigsaw, embedded jigsaw,
creative cut, tessellation, subtraction cut, minimum cut, transformation
reconstruction, and origami for waste reduction. However, there is more
difficulty and complexity in making the expected or desired designs of
dresses using zero-waste cutting techniques. So, there is a possibility that
people will not be interested in wearing those dresses. McQuillan (2020)
explained the advantage of 3D (three-dimensional) software for making
the design of zero-waste fashion. He’s gone over a number of case
studies from the worlds of industry, research, and education to show
how 3D software has changed his profession as a designer of a
zero-waste products.
2.3. Wastewater treatment in textile industry
Water is the primary reason for the existence of all life on our planet,
and saving it is the most prudent thing humans can do to ensure their
survival. In particular, the textile industry consumes a lot of pure water
in its manufacturing stage. After that, the wastewater is directly mixed
into rivers without being recycled. The EU BISCOL project’s research
work resulted in the creation of novel solutions to address water and
energy conservation challenges, as well as increased eco-efficiency
(Parisi et al., 2015). This was accomplished by combining
semi-industrial-scale enzymatic dye production with plasma-based
textile pre-treatment and the development of novel auxiliaries with
lower environmental effects. Ozturk et al. (2016) minimized the pure
water, and chemical usage, and also reduced the wastewater creation in
the cotton and polyester fabric finishing dyeing processes of textile mills.
The implementation of 14 BAT (best available techniques) in mills
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Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642
resulted in a 51% reduction in water consumption, a 39% reduction in
chemical usage, and a 48% reduction in wastewater flow rate. Harane
and Adivarekar (2017) used the oxidising agent alkali and alkali in the
bleaching and scouring processes of fabric to get wastewater, which will
have unexhausted chemicals, and it was used to get new grey fabric
de-sized. Wastewater filtration efficiency improved with a 50% reduc­
tion in water intake and a 19% reduction in chemical requirements.
Overall, they have saved 40% of fabric processing money. Senthil Kumar
and Saravanan (2017) also explained various wastewater treatment
technologies to achieve sustainability in the textile industry. Gilpavas
et al. (2018) proposed the CC-EO (Sequential Chemical
Coagulation-Electro-Oxidation) method as a possible treatment option
for industrial textile wastewater. This new method eliminated 100% of
color, 75% of TOC (Total Organic Carbon), and 93.5% of COD (Chemical
Oxygen Demand) in a 43- minute electrolysis process at a 6.91 USD
expense. Apart from others, Cinperi et al. (2019) used reverse osmosis,
membrane bioreactors, and nanofiltration techniques for the purifica­
tion of woolen textile wastewater and to use it again in the process of
production. Wang et al. (2021) demonstrated a solar driven contact
technology of water evaporation method for the treatment of textile
wastewater. A unique carbon nanotube/MXene/cotton fabric was
manufactured by the layer-by-layer assembly to be employed as a solar
steam generation for textile wastewater treatment. Recently, Ahmad
et al. (2022) surveyed the latest improvements in discarding dangerous
chemicals from industrial effluents using adsorption, membrane tech­
nologies, advanced oxidation processes (AOP), Fenton-based processes,
and eMBR-adsorption. The efficiency of superhydrophobic cotton fabric
(SHC) in terms of stability, oil/water segregation, self-cleaning, and
antibacterial effects was examined. Naimah et al. (2022) provided an
excellent overview of the benefits and applications of the nanofiltration
technique for wastewater purification. The review was mainly focused
on the contemporary implementation of NF for treating wastewater,
reusing, and material recovery in a variety of sectors, including oil and
gas, textiles, mining, food, pharmaceuticals, tanneries, and the pulp and
paper industry, which are highlighted in this overview. Kumar et al.
(2021) studied on dry process techniques like sonication, plasma tech­
nology, enzymatic treatments, ozonation, UV-assisted, microwave
technology, and low-temperature bleaching for less consumption of
water, energy, and chemicals in the textile industry.
2.4. Carbon cap and trade with green effort
The environment is getting more damaged and unsustainable due to
carbon emissions from big manufacturing industries; especially the
clothing industry. Immediate action is required to implement strict
regulations for the cap-and-trade system, so that all manufacturers will
start investing in green technology to minimize emissions. Lyu et al.
(2022) investigated the effects and efficiency of severe government
regulations on carbon caps and carbon prices to reduce emissions. Shen
and Li (2019) examined how environmental fees helped to adopt clean
technologies in the textile production chain. The adaptation of green
technology has helped to reduce the cost of production and increase the
greenness of goods. Shen et al. (2020) evaluated the influence of green
technology implementation and pollution penalties on textile and
apparel supply networks. The presence of the spill over effect lowers
costs and increases the greenness of the goods. Customers’ well-being
has improved as a result of the use of green technologies. To discover
the energy-saving potential, Ganesan et al., 2015 studied an energy
performance assessment at one of the textile factories to reduce 174.3
kWh/t of energy in the manufacturing process, and per year, 833 tonnes
of carbon dioxide emissions were reduced. Engström et al. (2020)
explained the importance and benefits of carbon pricing and how it will
save the environment. After that, Mishra et al. (2020) demonstrated a
carbon cost and cap model for sustainable economic manufacturing. It
has been considered that carbon emissions can be kept under control by
investing in green technology.
E. Peter John and U. Mishra
2.5. Sustainable textile industry and circular economy adaptation
Sustainability in the textile industry is needed in the current world
situation because the textile industry is consuming a large number of
natural resources for production processes and polluting soil, ground­
water, river water, oceans, and air. The environment is getting more
damaged and unsustainable because of this pollution. Rafael et al.
(2021) explained how the textile industry creates deforestation, water
consumption, carbon footprints, agrochemical consumption,
non-biodegradable waste generation, and wastewater generation. They
also discussed new solutions; like agroforestry systems, taking fibre from
vegetables or plants, using natural pigments and dyes in the printing and
dyeing processes, using natural ingredients for fabric finishing, using
supercritical fluid for fibre treatments, using industrial wastes, using
biomass, and recycling. Lee (2017) highlighted techniques for
improving ecologically responsible textile product use and
manufacturing in the textile sector. The discussion focused on five stages
of environmental sustainability (raw material, production, retail, con­
sumption, and disposal). After that, Angelis et al. (2018) tracked the
roots of CE thought as well as its more recent evolution and explained
how the circular economy model will achieve zero landfill. Recently,
Roy et al. (2020) developed sustainable environmental policies for the
textile industry. This study created and tested a unique integrated
method that incorporates analytic network process (ANP),
decision-making trail and evaluation laboratory (DEMATEL), and
environmental process mapping (EPM) in the domain of the Indian
textile industry. The technical solutions result in a 12% reduction in
waste and a 5% reduction in energy consumption. Wilson (2015)
explained how the zero-waste Scotland programme provides an oppor­
tunity for creating closed-loop systems for textile production with
zero-waste fashion. Zhang et al. (2018) enhanced the product’s life cycle
efficiency and environmental sustainability with a better
polyester-cotton manufacturing process design. The old manufacturing
system was subjected to a better design framework that included three
stages: environmental evaluation, best available technology develop­
ment, and multi-performance evaluation. Six of the best available
technologies were used: wastewater heat recovery, reusable cooling
water, reactive dyes, low/unsalted dyeing processes, steam, and thermal
oil pipeline transformation, exhaust gas heat recovery, alkali recovery
and reuse via nanofiltration membrane, and efficient evaporation. Also,
Chen et al. (2021) suggested strategies, like recycling clothing, returning
the fibres to the circular loop, using radio frequency identification tags
to categorize garments at the fabric level, solvent technologies, bio
sorting, repurposing and reuse of clothes, rental and resale approaches
for the textile industry to change linear economy clothing into more
sustainable circular economy clothing. Aus et al. (2021) studied the
processes of garment manufacturing factories in Bangladesh, India, and
Estonia for five years and found that upcycling is the best solution for
reducing the pre-consumer waste of textiles. Preparing dresses from
leftovers generated in the process of cutting and sewing fabrics also gave
detailed information about upcycling T-shirts, jeans, and dresses, help­
ing to create sustainability. The review explained the negative impacts
of the textile and fast fashion industries and how they are harming the
environment from the production stage to the consumption stage by
producing waste and carbon emissions (Peters et al., 2020). Saha and
Papagiannaki (2021) surveyed 114 textile and clothing companies from
India, Bangladesh, and Vietnam to find their circular economy actions
and environmental sustainability performance, along with challenges
and opportunities of circular economy implementation in the textile
industry in the current situation. Brydges (2021) investigated the
implementation of circular economy in Swedish fashion industry with a
discussion of 19 fashion brand managers who revealed important stra­
tegies of the circular economy practises. The presented literature review
clearly shows that previously developed three-layer models were
focused on reducing supply chain costs or increasing profit without
considering environmental impact. Most of the previous research works
5
Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642
addressed only one particular environmental issue of the textile in­
dustry. So, the uniqueness of this paper is that the combination of waste
minimization technology, wastewater treatment, green technology for
reducing emissions, and the circular economy for reducing new resource
consumption has been introduced in the three-layer supply chain of the
textile and fashion industries to address the environmental damage. The
identified research gaps of previous works and the new contributions of
this paper are shown in the summarised literature review Table 1.
2.6. Research questions
The research questions that motivate formulating the sustainable
supply chain model for the textile and clothing industries.
• How can a 3-layer sustainable supply chain model consisting of one
supplier-manufacturer, and multiple retailers for the textile and
apparel industry be developed?
• How can the supplier implement circular economy, green technol­
ogy, carbon tax, and water treatment technology?
• How can zero waste, circular economy, green technology, and car­
bon tax be implemented at the manufacturer level?
3. Notations and assumptions
3.1. Notations
The notations and abbreviations used to create a new sustainable 3-
layer supply chain model for textile and clothing industry are described
in Appendix D.
3.2. Assumptions
The assumptions based on the circularity index, waste minimization
investment, wastewater treatment investment, and green technology
investment are used to develop the sustainable 3-layer circular supply
chain model for the textile and clothing industry. The assumptions are
given in Appendix E.
4. Model formulation
The retailer’s cost and profit, the dress manufacturer’s cost and
profit, the fabric raw material supplier’s cost and profit, and the inte­
grated profit of the supply chain are derived in this section by using the
notations, assumptions, and concepts of Fig. 1.
4.1. Retailers costs and profit
4.1.1. Ordering cost
The cycle time (T) is the same for all retailers, the ordering cost of
each retailer is
Ro
OCr = (1)
T
4.1.2. Holding cost
For all retailers, the cycle time is the same and received shipment size
is different. So, each retailer’s received shipment size is
Grj = T(λro + a α)rj . (2)
Clearly, the retailer’s inventory follows the basic EOQ model. The
retailer’s average inventory is (T(λr o + a α)r j /2). The maximum in­
ventory of a retailer is T(λro + a α), and the minimum is 0. So, the
holding cost of finished dresses for jth retailer is
T(λro + a α)rj
HCr = Rh . (3)
2
E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

Table 1
Summarised literature review table to show research gaps and contributions.
References Number of layers Emission reduction & Wastewater treatment Waste minimization Circular economy
Green Investment

Ben-Daya and Al-Nassar (2008) 3 ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕

Sana (2011)
Pal et al. (2012a)
Pal et al. (2012b)
Ben-Daya et al. (2013)
Sankar et al. (2014)
Sadeghi et al. (2014)
Cárdenas-Barrón and Sana (2014)
Maghsoudlou et al. (2016)
Sarkar et al. (2016)
Heydari et al. (2016)
Navarro et al. (2016)
Harane and Adivarekar (2017)
Gilpavas et al. (2018)
Cinperi et al. (2019)
Manupati et al. (2019)
Daryanto et al. (2019)
Sun et al. (2019)
Mathew et al. (2019)
Giallanza and Puma (2020)
Sebatjane and Adetunji (2020)
Matsui (2021)
Ullah et al. (2021)
Stanescu (2021)
Panda et al. (2021)
Wang et al. (2021)
ElShishtawy et al. (2021)
Wani and Mishra (2022)
Ahmad et al. (2022)
Thomas and Mishra (2022)
Partal et al. (2022)
This paper
3 ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕
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3 ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕
3 ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕
2 ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕
3 ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕
3 ✓ ✕ ✕ ✕
3 ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕
3 ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕
0 ✕ ✓ ✕ ✕
0 ✕ ✓ ✕ ✕
0 ✕ ✓ ✕ ✕
3 ✓ ✕ ✕ ✕
3 ✓ ✕ ✕ ✕
2 ✓ ✕ ✕ ✕
0 ✕ ✓ ✕ ✕
3 ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕
3 ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕
3 ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕
3 ✕ ✕ ✓ ✕
0 ✕ ✕ ✓ ✕
0 ✕ ✓ ✕ ✕
0 ✕ ✓ ✕ ✕
0 ✕ ✕ ✓ ✓
0 ✓ ✕ ✓ ✓
0 ✕ ✓ ✕ ✕
0 ✓ ✕ ✓ ✓
0 ✕ ✓ ✕ ✕
3 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

✕ - Unavailable; ✓- Available.

Thus, per unit time, the total cost of nr retailers is 4.2.3. Holding cost of raw materials
n [ ] The dress manufacturer receives g2 number of the fabric raw mate­
∑ Ro T(λro + a α)rj
TCr = + Rh (4) rials shipments per cycle length of d2 T from the fabric raw materials
j=1
T 2 supplier. Therefore, the quantity of fabric raw materials shipped by the
dress manufacturer is
Profit = Total revenue – total cost per unit time, Then
n [ ] Qm d2 T(λmo + a α)
∑ Ro T(λro + a α)rj Gm = = (9)
RTP = n(pro + b α)(λro + a α) − + Rh (5) g2 g2
j=1
T 2
The area under the triangles divided by d2 T is the average inventory
of the dress manufacturer’s raw materials as shown in Fig. 3. So, the
dress manufacturer’s raw material holding cost per unit time is
4.2. Manufacturer costs and profit
d2 T(λmo + aα)2
4.2.1. Setup cost HCMr = Sh (10)
2g2 Mp
At the start of every cycle of time Tm , the dress manufacturer sets up
all the machines involved in the manufacturing process to produce the 4.2.4. Fully finished dresses holding cost
dresses. So, the dress manufacturer’s setup cost per unit time is The dresses made by the dress manufacturer (fully finished dresses)
MA
SCm = (6)
d2 T

4.2.2. Ordering cost

For each cycle sufficient fabric raw material for production is
accepted by the manufacturer. The order quantity received by the dress
manufacturer per cycle is
QM = d2 T(λmo + a α) (7)
Anyway, the fabric raw materials are shipped in g2 shipments of
equal quantity to the manufacturer but not in large single shipment
sizes. So, ordering cost of the fabric raw material per unit time is
Mo g2
OCm = (8)
d2 T
Fig. 3. Raw material inventory of the dress manufacturer for g2 = 3.

6
E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

are sent in d2 equal shipments to the dress-selling retailers as shown in [ ]

Fig. 4. So, the dress manufacturer’s inventory = system inventory - re­ Mh T (λmo + aα)2
IHCm = (2 − d2 ) + (d2 − 1)(λmo + aα) (11)
tailer’s inventory (the dotted line illustrates in Fig. 4). 2 Mp
At the beginning of the cycle, no stock is with dress manufacturer so
the system has minimum inventory corresponding to retailers that is 4.2.5. Zero-waste technology for utilizing pre-consumer textile waste
T(λmo +aα)2 The dress manufacturer produces a lot of waste materials, like scrap
Mp . Thereafter, at the rate of Mp − D system’s inventory level starts
increasing. When the raw material availability throughout the cycle is clothes from the cutting room, waste from the design room, and leftover
materials in the process of making dresses, as shown in Fig. 1. In order to
depleted at time d2 T(λmo + aα)/Mp , the dress maker halts
(Mp − (λmo +aα))d2 T(λmo +aα) 2 convert these scrap clothes into valuable products like fashion dresses,
manufacturing. So Mp + T(λmoM+a
p
α)
is the highest in­ carpets, cloth bags, and pillows, etc., the zero-waste technology is
ventory level reached by the system. After this, the inventory begins to implemented as shown in Fig. 1. The reduced waste cost is
decrease at a rate of demand till the cycle ends. The system total average Re− ψ μ Cr (λmo + a α) + μ.
inventory is
(Mp − (λmo +aα))d2 T(λmo +aα)
+ T(λmoM+aα)2
. The dress manufacturer’s In the process of making the dresses, the manufacturer uses big
2Mp
machines and lights that consume a lot of electricity. As a result, enor­
p

average inventory is just the system’s average inventory less the average
mous amounts of greenhouse gases are emitted. To reduce emissions,
(Mp − (λmo +aα))d2 T(λmo +aα) α)2
inventory of the retailer. That is 2Mp + T(λmoM+a
p
− solar panels and wind turbines are installed with green technology in­
T(λmo +aα)
. vestment, as shown in Fig. 1. The reduced emission cost is
2
The dress manufacturer holding cost for finished dresses per unit ( ( ))
K(λmo + aα)η 1 − ξ 1 − e− ψ G + G + ηJ
time is
The dress manufacturer’s total cost per unit of time is

⎡ ⎤
MA + Mo g2 d2 T(λmo + aα)2
⎢ + Sh ⎥
⎢ d2 T 2g2 Mp ⎥
⎢ ⎥
⎢ [ ] ( ( ) ) ⎥
TCm = ⎢ 2
⎢ +Mh T (2 − d ) (λmo + aα) + (d − 1)(λ + aα) × η 1 − ξ 1 − e
− ψG
+ G − ηJ ⎥
⎥ (12)
⎢ 2 2 mo ⎥
⎢ 2 M p ⎥
⎣ ⎦
+Re− ψμ Cr (λmo + aα) + μ + K(λmo + aα)

Fig. 4. Inventory pattern of raw material needed for manufacturer, finished items and incoming products to retailer (d2 = 7, g2 = 3).

7
E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

Total profit of manufacturer = Total revenue of manufacturer – total

cost of manufacturer
MTP(T, α) = (λmo + a α)(pmo + b α) − TCm (13)
See Appendix B, for the value of cycle time T and circularity index α
and the concavity proof of MTP.

4.3. Supplier costs and profit

The supplier has a machine setup cost for production of raw mate­
rials cloths, the cost of ordering raw cotton fabrics, the cost of holding
raw cotton, and the cost of holding finished raw materials. Machine
setup cost of the supplier for production of raw material cloth is
Fig. 5. Supplier’s inventory raw material for g 1 =3.
SA
SCs = (14)
d1 d2 T
material cloth inventory of the supplier cannot be found like we did for
Every cycle, the supplier receives enough raw cotton fabric ship­ the dress manufacturer because the dress manufacturer is not getting a
ments from his supplier to suit his needs for that cycle. The quantity continuous shipment of raw material cloth as in the case of retailers. So,
received by the supplier during the cycle time d1 d2 T is the average raw material cloth inventory of supplier = supplier cumu­
lative demand – cumulative demand of the dress manufacturer/cycle
Qs = d1 d2 T(λso + a α) (15)
time.
It is shipped in g2 shipments of the same size to the supplier. So, the The V1 represents the supplier’s cumulative production area i.e., V1
ordering cost is is the sum of all triangles area up to production end and the rectangle’s
area from the production. So,
So g1
OCs = (16) ( )
d1 d2 T d2 T d1 2 d2 T(λso + a α)2
V1 = 2
2d1 d2 T(λso + a α) − (19)
The raw cotton fabric inventory picture is shown in Fig. 5. So, the 2 Sp
size is
The area beneath the cumulative demand of the dress manufacturer
Qs d1 d2 T(λso + a α) is represented by V2 . That area is the sum of U1 , U2 and U3 is shown in
Gs = = (17)
g1 g1 Fig. 6.
The average raw cotton fabric inventory is the area of the g1 identical ( )
d1 d2 T(λso +a α)2 (g2 +1)
triangles divided by the cycle time. Hence, the raw cotton fabric holding • U1 types of rectangles area is U1 = d22T g2 Mp
cost is • U2 types of rectangles area is
2
d1 d2 T(λso + a α)
HCSr = ho (18)
2g1 Sp

[ ]
d2 T d1 d2 T(d1 + 1)(λso + a α)2 2d1 d2 T(λso + a α)2
U2 = d1 d2 T(d1 + 1)(λso + a α) − −
2 Mp g2 Sp

4.3.1. Finished raw material cloth holding cost

The raw material inventory of the supplier and dress manufacturer is (
d1 d2 T(d1 − 1)(λso +a α)2
)
shown in Fig. 6. The raw cotton fabric inventory of the supplier is rep­ • U3 types of rectangles area is U3 = d22T Mp
resented by a green dashed line, and the cumulative production of the
raw material cloth supplier is represented by a red dashed line. The blue The area of V2 is sum of the areas of U1 , U2 and U3 which is given by
and black lines in the first and second parts of the picture show the

⎡ ⎤
d1 d2 T(g2 + 1)(λso + a α)2
⎢ + d1 d2 T(d1 + 1)(λso + a α) ⎥
d2 T ⎢ g2 Mp d1 d2 T(d1 − 1)(λso + a α)2 ⎥
V2 = ⎢
⎢ + ⎥
⎥ (20)
2 ⎣ d1 d2 T(d1 + 1)(λso + a α)2 2d1 d2 T(λso + a α)2 Mp ⎦
− −
Mp g2 Sp

finished raw material cloth inventory of the supplier and the manufac­
turer’s raw material cloth inventory, respectively. The dress manufac­
turer’s cumulative demand is shown in the grey shaded area. The raw

8
E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

V2 − V1 SA + So g1 d1 d2 T(λso + aα)2
Thus, K1 K2 T is the average inventory of raw material cloths for sup­ TCs = + ho
d1 d2 T 2g1 Sp
plier. Therefore, its holding cost is given by ⎡( ) ( )⎤
⎡( ) ( ) ⎤ 2 (λso + a α)2 1
2 (λso + aα)2 1 (λso + aα)2 ⎢ − d1 + 1− ⎥
Sh d2 T ⎢ − d + 1 − ⎥ Sh d2 T ⎢
⎢ 2
g Sp g2 ⎥ (
⎥ + K(λso + aα)η 1
(21)
1 +
IHCs = ⎣ g2 Sp g2 Mp ⎦ 2 ⎢ ⎥
2 ⎣ (λso + aα) ⎦
+(d1 − 1)(λso + aα) × + (d1 − 1)(λso + aα)
Mp
( ))
− ξ 1 − e− ψ G + G − ηJ + We− φ δ Wr (λso + aα) + δ
4.3.2. Supplier emission cost
At the supplier stage of the supply chain, the supplier uses big ma­ (22)
chines and lights that consume a lot of electricity. As a result, huge Supplier total profit = Total revenue supplier – total cost supplier
amounts of greenhouse gases are emitted. To reduce emissions, the
STP(T, α) = (λso + a α)(pso + b α) − TCs (23)
textile industry is investing in green technologies; like solar panels and
wind turbines, as shown in Fig. 1. Then, the reduced emission cost is See Appendix C for values of cycle time T and circularity index α.
( ( )) Then concavity proof of STP.
MECs = K(λso + a α)η 1 − ξ 1 − e− ψ G + G − ηJ
Integrated total profit = retailers’ total profit + manufacturer’s total
profit + supplier total profit
4.3.3. Supplier wastewater treatment cost
In the stage of the supplier’s supply chain, a lot of pure water and ITP(T, α) = ((λmo + aα)(pmo + bα) − TCm ) + ((λso + aα)(pso + bα) − TCs )
toxic chemicals are used in the process of dyeing fabrics. More toxic + (n(pro + bα)(λro + aα) − TCr )
water is generated due to this dyeing process, and it is directly mixed
(24)
into the rivers and oceans without proper treatment. This action affects
the river’s water and species of ocean. To address this issue, implement a Differentiating Equation (24) partially with respect to w.r.t. T and α,
wastewater treatment technology as shown in Fig. 1. Then, the reduced and equating to zero.
wastewater treatment cost is The cycle time and circularity index are

⎡
⎡ ⎤
⎢ (2 − d2 )(a α + λmo )2
/⎢
[ ] ⎢ 2 2 ⎢ (1 + d2 )(aα + λmo ) + ⎥
MA + g2 Mo SA + g1 So ⎢Sh d2 (aα + λmo ) ho d1 d2 (aα + λso ) 1 ⎢ Mp ⎥
T= + + nRo ⎢ + + Mh ⎢ ( ) ⎥
d2 d1 d2 ⎢ 2g2 Mp 2g1 Sp 2 ⎢ ⎥
⎢ ⎣ 1 ⎦
⎢ +n Rh (aα + λro )
⎣ 2

⎡ ( ) ⎤⎤
1
⎢ 1 − (aα + λso )2 ⎥⎥
⎢ ( − 1 + d )(aα + λ ) + g2 ⎥⎥
⎢ 1 so ⎥⎥
1 ⎢ Mp ⎥⎥
+ Sh d2 ⎢
⎢ ( ) ⎥⎥
⎥⎥
2 ⎢ 2 ⎥⎥
⎢ − d1 + (aα + λso )2 ⎥⎥
⎣ m2 ⎦⎦
+
Sp
⎡
( ( ( ) )
⎢ 1 1 1 1 1
α=⎢
⎣ 2aK 1 + − 1 + e− ψ G
ξ η + ae− δψ
RCWr − aTMh + anTRh + aTMh d2 − aTSh d2 + aTSh d1 d2 + ae− δφ
WWr − apmo − anpro − apso
2 2 2 2 2

( ) ) ( ) ⎤/⎡
1
aTMh ( − 2 + d2 )λmo aTSh d2 λmo aTho d1 d2 λso aTSh d2 1 − g2
λso aTSh d2 − d2 + g22 λso ⎥ ⎢
− bλmo− − + − bλso + + + ⎥ ⎢4ab + 2abn
bnλro
Mp g2 Mp g1 Sp Mp Sp ⎦ ⎣

( ) ( )⎤
2 1 2 2
a2 TMh ( − 2 + d2 ) a TSh d2 1 − g2 a2 TSh d2 a2 Tho d1 d2 a TSh d2 − d2 + ⎥ g2
+ − − − − ⎥
Mp Mp g2 Mp g1 Sp Sp ⎦

φ δ
MWTCS = We− Wr (λso + a α) + δ.
See Appendix A for the concavity proof of ITP.
The total cost of supplier
5. Numerical study of textile and clothing industry

The real-life application and implications of this model are explained

9
E. Peter John and U. Mishra
with a numerical example. The textile and fashion industry consumes
1.5 × 1012 L of water per year and produces 92 × 106 t of waste per year
(Peters et al., 2020). To reduce this waste creation and water con­
sumption in the textile industry, need a sustainable supply chain model.
The circular economy model as shown in Fig. 7, green technology, waste
/ / / / /
Sp = 150/units y, SA = $100/ setup, Sh = $0.6 /unit y, So = /$40 order,
pso = $5 unit, λso = 2 units y, Mp = 120 units y, MA = $50 setup,
Mh = $0.4 unit/y, ho = $0.8/unit, Mo = $20/order, pmo = $5/unit,
λmo = 2 units/y, Rh = $0.2/units/y, Ro = $4/order, n = 7,
pro = $4/ unit, λro = 10 units/y, K = 0.8 t/unit/y, J = 2000 t/y,
ζ = 0.7 t/unit/y, ψ = 0.8, φ = 0.8, η = $0.8/t, d1 = 1, d2 = 2, g1 = 2, g2 = 1, R = 2 units, Cr = $1/unit, W = 2 units,
Wr = $1/unit, a = 40 units, and b = − 2.
minimization technology, and wastewater treatment technology are
more promising in terms of creating sustainability in the textile industry
and eliminating waste and pollution. Globally, China is producing
52.2% of textiles, followed by India at 6.9%, Pakistan at 3.6%, Brazil at
2.4%, Turkey at 1.9%, Indonesia at 2.4%, South Korea at 1.8%, Thailand
at 1.1%, the United States at 5.3%, and Mexico at 0.9%. (Global Textile
Industry Factsheet 2020). This model can be implemented in leading
textile manufacturing and exporting companies such as; (1) TJX Com­
panies, Framingham, USA, (2) Lululemon Athletica, Vancouver, Canada,
(3) V.F. Corporation, Denver, Colorado, USA, (4) Shenzhou Interna­
tional Group Holdings, Zhejiang, China, and (5) Zalando SE, Berlin,
Germany.
5.1. Numerical study for three-layer integrated system
The aim of the algorithm is to obtain the optimal profit with optimal
time and circularity index.
Algorithm.
Step 1. Assign values to the parameters make use of Mathematica 9.0
software.
Step 2. Set μ = 0, δ = 0 and G = l, where l = 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, ...
Step 3. Put l = 0
Step 4. Find out the values for T and α by equating the first order
partial derivative of equation (24) to zero w. r.t the parameters T and
α. Use Mathematica 9.0 to find the T and α values.
Step 5. Compute the integrated total profit in Equation (24) by using
the values of T and α obtained from step 4 and parameter’s values in
Step 1.
Step 6. Let G = l + 1 and repeat the Step 4 to Step 5 up to highest
value of total profit. Stop when ITPl > ITPl+1 .
Step 7. μ = m, δ = 0 and G = l, where m = 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, ...
Step 8. Let μ = m + 1 and repeat the Step 4 to Step 5 up to the highest
value of total profit.
i.e., ITPl m > ITPl m+1 .
Step 9. μ = m, δ = τ and G = l, where τ = 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, ...
Step 10. Let δ = τ + 1 and repeat the Step 4 to Step 5 up to the
highest value of total profit.
i.e., ITPl mτ > ITPl mτ+1 . values of T and α corresponding the highest
value of total profit is the optimal cycle time value T* and circularity
index α* .
Step 11. Stop.
Consider the three-layer coordinated supply chain system in the
10
Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642
textile industry, with one manufacturer, one supplier, and seven re­
tailers. Using Mathematica 9.0 software and Algorithm with considering
initial parameters. Let
To find the maximum ITP of three-layer supply chain model with the
optimal cycle time, the optimal strategy of waste minimization tech­
nology, green technology, wastewater treatment technology, and
optimal circularity index. The graphical representation of ITP is shown
in Fig. 8. The contour plot of the three-layer integrated total profit
function w. r.t μ and G is shown in Fig. 8(a), and w. r.t δ and G is shown
in Fig. 8(b). The concavity of three-layer integrated total profit function
w. r.t α and G is shown in Fig. 8(c).
5.2. Supplier numerical study
The algorithm is required to obtain the optimal profit with optimal
time and circularity index and to find best green technology investment
and wastewater treatment investment strategies.
Algorithm
Step 1. Assign values to the parameters make use of Mathematica 9.0
software.
Step 2. Set δ = 0 and G = l, where l = 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, ...
Step 3. Put l = 0
Step 4. Find out the values for T and α by equating the first order
partial derivative of equation (23) to zero w. r.t the parameters T and
α. Use Mathematica 9.0 to find the T and α values.
Step 5. Compute the total profit of supplier in Equation (23) by using
the values of T and α obtained from Step 4 and parameter’s values in
Step 1.
Step 6. Let G = l + 1 and repeat the Step 4 to Step 5 up to highest
value of total profit. Stop when STPl > SPLl+1 .
Step 7. δ = m and G = l, where m = 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, ...
Step 8. Let δ = m + 1 and repeat the Step 4 to Step 5 up to the highest
value of total profit.
i.e., STPlm > STPlm+1 . values of T and α corresponding the highest
value of total profit is the optimal values of cycle time T* and circularity
index α* .
Step 9. Stop.
Consider the numerical example of the supplier alone in the textile
industry. Using Mathematica 9.0 software and an algorithm with
consideration of initial parameters, the algorithm is used to find the
maximum profit value with the optimal cycle time and optimal circu­
larity index. The graphical representation of STP is shown in Fig. 9. The
contour plot of the supplier total profit function w. r.t. δ and G is shown
in Fig. 9(a). The concavity of the supplier total profit function w. r.t α
and G is shown in Fig. 9(b). Let
E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

Fig. 6. The supplier and the manufacturer’s combined inventory model (d1 = 3, g1 = 4 and g2 = 3)

Fig. 7. Sustainable circular economy system of textile and clothing industry.

11
E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

Fig. 8. The local maximum feasible point of ITP with respect to μ and G is represented as red mark in the contour plot, illustrated in Fig. 8a. The local maximum
feasible point of ITP with respect to δ and G is represented as red mark in the contour plot, illustrated in Fig. 8b The concave nature of ITP with respect to the
circularity index α and G is shown in Fig. 8c. The red spot indicates the optimal value of ITP in Fig. 8c.

Fig. 9. The local maximum feasible point of STP with respect to δ and G is represented as red mark in the contour plot, illustrated in Fig. 9a. The concave nature of
STP with respect to the circularity index α and G is shown in Fig. 10b. The red spot indicates the optimal value of ITP in Fig. 9b.

12
E. Peter John and U. Mishra
Fig. 10. The local maximum feasible point of MTP with respect to μ and G is represented as red mark in the contour plot, illustrated in Fig. 10a. The concave nature
of MTP with respect to the circularity index α and G is shown in Fig. 10b. The red spot indicates the optimal value of MTP in Fig. 10b.
Fig. 11. Concavity of RTP with respect to α
/ / / /
Sp = 150 units y, SA = $100 setup, Sh = $0.6 units y,
So = $40/order, pso = $5/unit, λso = 2 units/y, K = 0.8 t/unit/y,
J = 2000 t/y, ζ = 0.7unit/t/y, ψ = 0.8, φ = 0.8, η = $0.8/t, d1 = 1,
d2 = 2, g1 = 1, g2 = 2, W = 2 units, Wr = $1/unit, a = 40 units,
and b = − 2.
5.3. Manufacturer numerical study
The algorithm is required to obtain the optimal profit with the
optimal time and circularity index, green technology investment strat­
egy, and waste minimization technology investment strategy.
Algorithm
Step 1. Assign values to the parameters make use of Mathematica 9.0
software.
Step 2. Set μ = 0 and G = l, where l = 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, ...
Step 3. Put l = 0
13
Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642
Step 4. Find out the values for T and α by equating the first order
partial derivative of Equation (13) to zero w.r.t. The parameters T
and α. Use Mathematica 9.0 to find the T and α values.
Step 5. Compute the total profit of supplier in Equation (13) by using
the values of T and α obtained from Step 4 and parameter’s values in
Step 1.
Step 6. Let G = l + 1 and repeat the Step 4 to Step 5 up to highest
value of total profit. Stop when MTPl > MTPl+1 .
Step 7. μ = m and G = l, where m = 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, ...
Step 8. Let μ = m + 1 and repeat the Step 4 to Step 5 up to the highest
value of total profit.
i.e., MTPlm > MTPlm+1 values of T and α corresponding the highest
value of total profit is the optimal values of cycle time T* and circularity
index α* .
Step 9. Stop.
Consider the numerical study of the manufacturer alone in the textile
industry. Using Mathematica 9.0 software and an algorithm with
consideration of initial parameters, the algorithm is used to find the
maximum profit value with the optimal cycle time and optimal circu­
larity index. The graphical representation of MTP is shown in Fig. 10.
The contour plot of the manufacturer total profit function w.r.t δ and G is
shown in Fig. 10(a). The concavity of manufacturer total profit function
w. r.t α and G is shown in Fig. 10(b). Let
/ / / /
Mp = 120 units y, MA = $50 setup, Mh = $0.4 unit y,
Mo = $20/order, pmo = $5/unit, λmo = 2 units/y,
K = 0.8 t/unit/y, J = 2000 t/y, ζ = 0.7 t/unit/y, ψ = 0.8,
η = $0.8/ t, d1 = 1, d2 = 2, g1 = 1, g2 = 2, R = 2 units,
Cr = $1/unit, a = 40 units and b = − 2.
5.4. Retailers numerical study
Consider the numerical example for retailers alone in the textile in­
dustry. Using Mathematica 9.0 software and an algorithm with consid­
eration of initial parameters, the algorithm was used to find the
E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

Table 2
Optimal solution of three-layer integrated model of the textile industry.

Table 3 Table 4
Optimal solution of textile supplier. Optimal solution of textile manufacturer.
G ($) δ($) T ($) α STP ($) MECS ($) MWTCS ($) G ($) μ ($) T ($) α MTP ($) MWCM ($) MECM ($)

0 0 9.65581 0.194752 1604.79 6.26565 19.5802 0 0 3.58429 0.319556 1600.33 29.5645 9.46063
1 0 7.71237 0.256427 1606.51 4.8207 24.5142 1 0 3.21882 0.394238 1603.35 35.539 6.98874
2 0 7.07273 0.28414 1606.93 3.77511 26.7312 2 0 3.08789 0.426435 1604.39 38.1148 5.38276
3 0 6.81863 0.296592 1606.61 3.22527 27.7274 3 0 3.03392 0.440705 1604.35 39.2564 4.56634
4 0 6.71031 0.302187 1605.92 2.96205 28.175 4 0 3.01055 0.447083 1603.8 39.7666 4.1807
5 0 6.66275 0.304701 1605.07 2.84052 28.3761 5 0 3.00021 0.449942 1603 39.9954 4.00364

G ($) δ($) T (Y) α STP ($) MECS ($) MWTCS ($) G ($) μ ($) T ($) α MTP ($) MWCM ($) MECM ($)

2 1 3.87757 0.559475 1626.72 6.88584 21.9084 2 1 2.28369 0.726836 1631.09 27.9244 8.77668
2 2 3.22328 0.683192 1639.01 8.283559 11.8423 2 2 2.06642 0.856462 1646.75 14.6409 10.2412
2 3 2.99612 0.738781 1644.77 8.91164 5.72453 2 3 1.98401 0.914181 1654.07 6.99748 10.8933
2 4 2.90416 0.763759 1646.98 9.19384 2.65365 2 4 1.94946 0.940032 1656.97 3.22847 11.1854
2 5 2.86465 0.774982 1647.45 9.32063 1.20881 2 5 1.93439 0.951633 1657.76 1.46764 11.3164
2 6 2.84724 0.780025 1647.12 9.37761 0.546472 2 6 1.9277 0.956843 1657.57 0.662835 11.3753

shown in Table 2. The optimal cycle time T = 1.65564, optimal circu­

maximum profit value with the optimal cycle time and optimal circu­
larity index α = 0.861763 that is the recycling level of clothes, green
larity index. The graphical representation of RTP is shown in Fig. 11.
technology investment G = 3 for installing solar panels, investment for
R = $0.2/unit/y, Ro = $4/order, n = 7, pro = $4/unit,
Let h waste minimization technique μ = 5 that is converting pre-consumer
λro = 10 units, a = 40 units, b = − 2.
cutting room scrap clothes and leftover materials into fashion t-shirts,
So,T = 0.21674, α = 0.869582 and RTP = $572.752.
doormats, and decorating items, and investment for textile wastewater
treatment technology δ = 5. The corresponding minimized emission
6. Results and discussion
cost is due to the green technology investment of the manufacturer
MECM = $8.48456, minimized waste cost is due to the waste minimi­
6.1. Three-layer integrated supply chain system of textile industry
zation technology of the manufacturer MWCM = $1.33596, minimized
emission cost is due to the green technology investment of the supplier
The optimal solution of the three-layer integrated supply chain sys­
MECS = $8.48456, and minimized wastewater treatment technology
tem of the textile industry is obtained through an algorithm and it is

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E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

Table 5
Special case of three-layer integrated supply chain model.
G μ δ T α ITP MWCM MECM MECS MWTCs
($) ($) ($) (y) ($) ($) ($) ($) ($)

0 0 0 1.81007 0 3396.96 4 1.28 1.28 8

0 0 0 1.81007 1 3739.69 84 26.88 26.88 3528
3 5 5 1.65567 0 3384.23 0.0732626 0.415283 0.415283 0.99732
3 5 5 1.65567 1 3924.98 1.53851 9.770955 9.770955 0.81647

6.1.1. Supplier
Table 6
The optimal solution for the supplier of the textile industry is ob­
Special case of supplier.
tained through an algorithm and it is shown in Table 3. The optimal
G ($) δ ($) T (Y) α STP ($) MECS ($) MWTCS ($) cycle time T = 2.86465, optimal circularity index α = 0.774982 that is
0 0 9.65581 0 1597.17 1.28 4 the recycling level of clothes, green technology investment G = 2 for
0 0 9.65581 1 1474.45 26.88 84 installing solar panels, investment for the textile wastewater treatment
2 5 2.86465 0 1577.84 0.564899 0.99732
technology δ = 5. The corresponding minimized emission cost due to
2 5 2.86465 1 1641.58 11.8629 1.53851
green technology investment of the supplier MECS = $9.32063, mini­
mized wastewater treatment cost of the supplier MWTCS = $1.20881.
The supplier’s profit is STP = $1647.45. Implementation of wastewater
Table 7 treatment technology investment reduced 93.82% of wastewater cost.
Special case manufacturer.
The supplier total profit is increased by 2.66149%. The special cases of
G ($) μ ($) T (y) α MTP ($) MWCM ($) MECM ($) the supplier model are found, and its results are shown in Table 6.
0 0 3.58429 0 1590.7 4 1.28
0 0 3.58429 1 1590.7 84 26.88 6.1.2. Manufacturer
2 5 1.93439 0 1578.36 0.0732626 0.415283 The optimal solution for the manufacturer of the textile industry is
2 5 1.93439 1 1657.56 1.53851 11.8629
obtained through an algorithm and it is shown in Table 4. The optimal
cycle time T = 1.93439, optimal circularity index α = 0.951633 that is
the recycling level of clothes, green technology investment G = 2 for
Table 8 installing solar panels, investment for waste minimization technique μ =
Profit comparison.
5. The minimized waste cost is due to the manufacturer’s investment in
Supplier total profit $1646.45 waste minimization technology MWCM = $1.46764 and minimized
Manufacturer total profit $1657.76 Three-layer integrated emission cost due to green technology investment of supplier MECM =
Retailers total profit $572.752 Total profit $3939.26 $11.3164. The manufacturer profit is MTP = $1657.76. The waste cost
Sum of all profit $3877.962 of manufacturer reduced by 95.0358% due to the implementation of
waste minimization technology investment. The manufacturer total
profit is increased by 3.58863%. The special cases of the manufacturer
model are found, and its results are shown in Table 7.

Fig. 12. Graphical representation of profit comparison.
cost of supplier MWTCS = $0.892397. The integrated total profit is
ITP = $3939.26. The waste cost of manufacturer reduced by 97.86%
due to the implementation of waste minimization technology invest­
ment. The implementation of wastewater treatment technology invest­
ment reduced 98.95% of wastewater cost. The implementation of green
technology investment reduced 57.42% emission cost of supplier and
manufacturer. The integrated total profit is increased by 3.80241%. The
special cases of the three-layer integrated supply chain model are found,
and its results are shown in Table 5.
6.1.3. Retailers
The cycle time and circularity index are same for all retailers. The
optimal cycle time for retailers T = 0.21674 and optimal circularity
index of clothes α = 0.869582.Therefore, RTP = $572.752. The math­
ematical models for finding both the integrated profit and the individual
profit of supplier, manufacturer, and the retailers. Comparing all the
models will reveal the most feasible model. The profit comparison of the
three-layer integrated supply chain model and the individual profit
models of the supplier, manufacturer, and retailers are shown in Table 8.
The difference between three-layer integrated supply chain profit
and sum of individual profit of supplier, manufacturer, and retailers is =
$3939.26 – $3877.962 = $61.298. The graphical representation of
profit comparison is shown in Fig. 12.
Integrated total profit of three-layer supply chain is found for
different combination values of d1 , d2 , g1 , and g2 (see Tables 9–12). The
graphical representation of integrated three-layer integrated supply
chain total profits for different combination values of d1, d2, g1,and g is
shown in The graphical representation of integrated three-layer inte­
grated supply chain total profits for different combination values of d1,
d2, g1,and g2is shown in Fig. 13.
7. Sensitivity analysis and managerial implications to the textile
industry
Sensitive analysis is required to analyze the impact of parameter’s
change on the optimal solutions of integrated total profit. The results are
shown in Table 13. Sensitivity analysis is to obtain the impact of some

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E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

Table 9
When d1 = d2 = g1 = g2 = 1
G ($) μ ($) δ ($) T (y) α ITP ($) MWCM ($) MECM ($) MECS ($) MWTCS ($)

1 0 0 2.56892 0.730507 3781.3 62.4406 12.2789 12.2789 1949.41

2 0 0 2.55787 0.736737 3786.25 62.939 8.88854 8.88854 1980.66
3 0 0 2.55293 0.739536 3787.39 63.1629 7.34716 7.34716 1994.77
4 0 0 2.55072 0.740793 3786.81 63.2634 6.65093 6.65093 2001.13
3 1 0 2.49976 0.770469 3821.86 29.4928 7.63501 7.63501 967.918
3 2 0 2.47666 0.784361 3837.24 13.4764 7.76428 7.76428 449.766
3 3 0 2.46643 0.790602 3843.68 6.10062 7.82236 7.82236 205.128
3 4 0 2.46187 0.793406 3846.05 2.75033 7.84845 7.84845 92.7857
3 5 0 2.45982 0.794665 3846.56 1.23765 7.86017 7.86017 41.8159
3 6 0 2.4589 0.795231 3846.25 0.556483 7.86544 7.86544 18.8143
3 5 1 2.41079 0.825562 3883.46 1.28292 8.14769 8.14769 20.1888
3 5 2 2.38945 0.83944 3899.92 1.30325 8.27683 8.27683 9.36126
3 5 3 2.37999 0.845674 3906.86 1.31239 8.33484 8.33484 4.26545
3 5 4 2.37577 0.848475 3909.45 1.31649 8.36091 8.36091 1.9286
3 5 5 2.37388 0.849733 3910.06 1.31833 8.37261 8.37261 0.869003
3 5 6 2.37303 0.850299 3909.79 1.31916 8.37788 8.37788 0.39096

Table 10
When d1 = d2 = g1 = g2 = 2
G ($) μ ($) δ ($) T (y) α ITP ($) MWCM ($) MECM ($) MECS ($) MWTCS ($)

1 0 0 1.40538 0.745524 3800.44 63.6419 12.5152 12.5152 2025.15

2 0 0 1.39974 0.751856 3805.52 64.1485 9.5936 9.5936 2057.51
3 0 0 1.39722 0.7547 3806.72 64.376 7.48827 7.48827 2072.13
4 0 0 1.3961 0.755978 3806.16 64.4782 6.77864 6.77864 2078.72
3 1 0 1.3702 0.786119 3841.86 30.0554 7.78064 7.78064 1005.2
3 2 0 1.3585 0.800221 3857.55 13.7325 7.91187 7.91187 467.028
3 3 0 1.35333 0.806554 3864.14 6.21639 7.97081 7.97081 212.987
3 4 0 1.35102 0.809399 3866.57 2.80248 7.99728 7.99728 96.3379
3 5 0 1.34999 0.810678 3867.12 1.26111 8.00918 8.00918 43.4164
3 6 0 1.34953 0.811252 3866.81 0.567031 8.01452 8.01452 19.5343
3 5 1 1.32528 0.842015 3904.72 1.30703 8.30079 8.30079 20.9547
3 5 2 1.31456 0.856082 3921.52 1.32764 8.4317 8.4317 9.71485
3 5 3 1.30982 0.8624 3928.61 1.3369 8.49049 8.49049 4.42625
3 5 4 1.3077 0.865239 3931.26 1.34105 8.51691 8.51691 2.00124
3 5 5 1.30675 0.866514 3931.9 1.34292 8.52877 8.52877 0.901721
3 5 6 1.30633 0.867087 3931.64 1.34376 8.53411 8.53411 0.405676

Table 11
When d1 = 2, d2 = 1, g1 = 2, g2 = 1
G ($) μ ($) δ ($) T (y) α ITP ($) MWCM ($) MECM ($) MECS ($) MWTCS ($)

1 0 0 2.06978 0.73757 3785.81 63.0056 12.39 12.39 1984.85

2 0 0 2.06132 0.743867 3790.82 63.5094 8.9691 8.9691 2016.72
3 0 0 2.05755 0.746696 3791.99 63.7357 7.41379 7.41379 2031.12
4 0 0 2.05586 0.747967 3791.41 63.8374 6.71127 6.71127 2037.6
3 1 0 2.01696 0.77795 3826.77 29.7618 7.70463 7.70463 985.65
3 2 0 1.99936 0.79198 3826.62 13.5994 7.83518 7.83518 458.018
3 3 0 1.99157 0.798282 3848.82 6.15635 7.89383 7.89383 208.893
3 4 0 1.98809 0.801114 3851.21 2.77546 7.92018 7.92018 94.4894
3 5 0 1.98654 0.802386 3851.74 1.24896 7.93202 7.93202 42.838
3 6 0 1.98584 0.802957 3851.43 0.56157 7.93733 7.93733 19.1598
3 5 1 1.94926 0.833573 3888.98 1.29466 8.22223 8.22223 20.5599
3 5 2 1.93306 0.847576 3905.61 1.31517 8.35254 8.35254 9.5333
3 5 3 1.92589 0.853865 3912.62 1.32439 8.41107 8.41107 4.34383
3 5 4 1.92269 0.856691 3915.24 1.32853 8.43736 8.43736 1.96403
3 5 5 1.92125 0.857961 3915.86 1.33039 8.44918 8.44918 0.88497
3 5 6 1.92061 0.858531 3915.6 1.33123 8.45449 8.45449 0.398142

key parameters such as MA , Mo , Mh , SA , So , Sh , η , ξ , ψ , K , So , R , Cr ,
W, and Wr respectively on the integrated total profit.
• An increase in the value of manufacturer’s setup cost MA and sup­
plier’s setup cost SA results in a decrease in profit. Decrease in
manufacturer setup cost results in an increased profit, but a decrease
in supplier setup cost results in profit decline, so the manufacturer
can decrease setup cost in order to increase the profit.
• An increase in the parameter value of manufacturer’s ordering cost
Mo and supplier’s ordering cost So results in a decrease in profit. A
decrease in manufacturer’s ordering cost results in profit increased,
so the manufacturer can make a small decrease in ordering cost to
gain a little more profit.
• A small increase in the parameter value of manufacturer’s holding
cost Mh and supplier’s holding cost Sh results in a decreased profit. A
decrease in both the manufacturer’s and supplier’s holding costs

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E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

Table 12
When d1 = 1, d2 = 2, g1 = 2, g2 = 1
G ($) μ ($) δ ($) T (y) α ITP ($) MWCM ($) MECM ($) MECS ($) MWTCS ($)

1 0 0 1.83448 0.736546 3800.54 62.9237 12.3739 12.3739 1979.69

2 0 0 1.8263 0.742781 3805.54 63.4225 8.95683 8.95683 2011.21
3 0 0 1.82265 0.745582 3806.71 63.6466 7.40342 7.40342 2025.44
4 0 0 1.82101 0.74684 3806.13 63.7472 6.70179 6.70179 2031.85
3 1 0 1.78336 0.776536 3841.44 29.7109 7.69147 7.69147 982.286
3 2 0 1.76631 0.790437 3865.94 13.5745 7.82083 7.82083 456.341
3 3 0 1.75877 0.796682 3863.44 6.14474 7.87894 7.87894 208.106
3 4 0 1.75541 0.799487 3865.83 2.77016 7.90504 7.90504 94.1285
3 5 0 1.7539 0.800748 3866.36 1.24656 7.91678 7.91678 42.4203
3 6 0 1.75322 0.801314 3866.04 0.560488 7.92204 7.92204 19.086
3 5 1 1.71779 0.831663 3903.52 1.29186 8.20446 8.20446 20.4711
3 5 2 1.7021 0.845547 3920.1 1.3122 8.33366 8.33366 9.49025
3 5 3 1.69515 0.851785 3927.1 1.32134 8.39171 8.39171 4.32386
3 5 4 1.69205 0.854587 3929.71 1.32 8.41778 8.41778 1.95493
3 5 5 1.69066 0.855847 3930.33 1.32279 8.42951 8.42951 0.880854
3 5 6 1.69004 0.856412 3930.06 1.32812 8.43477 8.43477 0.396287

Fig. 13. Graphical representation of different optimal ITP of three-layer supply chain model of textile industry.

results in profit increased, so both the manufacturer and supplier can
decrease the holding cost to increase profit.
• When the carbon tax parameter value changes from η = 0.8 $/ t to
η = 0.9 $/t, the profit increases from $3939.26 to $4337.14.
Therefore, an increasing carbon tax increases profit. When the car­
bon tax parameter value changes from η = 0.8 $/t to η = 0.6$/ t, the
profit decreases from $3939.26 to $3143.51 so decreasing carbon tax
is not a good choice for textile companies.
• When the parameter value of ξ = 0.7 change to ξ = 0.9, then the
profit increased from $3939.26 to $3947.78, but when the parameter
value of ξ = 0.7 changes to ξ = 0.5, then the profit decreased from
$3939.26 to $3930.8. So, increasing ξ value is the better option for
textile companies.
• The parameter value of ψ , i.e., the green technology’s efficiency to
reduce emissions for both manufacturer and supplier changes from
ψ = 0.8 to ψ = 1, then the profit increased from $3939.26 to
$3941.44. So, the textile company can increase a little more effi­
ciency of carbon reduction technology to obtain more profit. When
the value of ψ decreases from 0.8 to 0.6, then the profit decreases
from $3939.26 to $3934.53.
• A small change in the parameter value of K from 0.8 to 1, results in a
decrease of profit from $3939.26 to $3935.02 and a small change in
the parameter value of K from 0.8 to 0.6 results in an increase of
profit from $3939.26 to $3943.51. Since, there is no much change in
profit small modification in the value of K can be made.
• When the parameter value of R, i.e., producing a rate of scrap clothes
and leftover materials of the manufacturer, changes from R =
2 units/y to R = 1.8 units/y, then the profit increases from $3939.26
to $3939.39, but when R = 2 units/y changes to R = 2.2 units/y, then
the profit decreases from $3939.26 to $3939.12. So, the textile
company has to reduce scrap clothes production as much as possible
in order to gain more profit.
• A small change in the parameter value of Cr , i.e., cost due to scrap
clothes production by the manufacturer, changes from Cr = $ 1/unit
to Cr = $ 0.8/unit, then the profit increases from $3939.26 to
$3939.52, but when Cr = $1 /unit to Cr = $ 0.8/unit, then the profit
decreases from $3939.26 to $3938.99. So, the manufacturer should
focus on reducing waste production costs so as to gain more profit.
• When the parameter value of Wr , i.e., cost due to wastewater gen­
eration, changes from Wr = $ 1/unit to Wr = $ 0.8/unit, then the
profit increases from $3939.26 to $3939.52, but when Wr = $1/unit
to Wr = $ 1.2/unit, then the profit decreases from $3939.26 to
$3938.99.
• A small change in the parameter value of W i.e., wastewater pro­
duction rate of supplier of textile company changes from W = 2 unit/
y to W = 1.8 unit/y, then the total profit increases from $3939.26 to
$3939.39, but when W = 2 unit/y to W = 2.2 unit/y, then the profit
decreases from $3939.26 to $3939.12. So, the supplier should focus
on minimizing wastewater production rate of a textile company.
7.1. Application of this model for creating a sustainable fashion industry
The fashion business is the world’s second greatest polluter, just

17
E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

Table 13
Sensitivity analysis of ITP model.
PR CH G μ δ T α ITP ($) MWCM ($) MECM ($) MECS ($) MWTCS ($)

MA 48 3 5 5 1.64956 0.862032 3939.86 1.33636 8.48706 8.48706 0.892924

49 3 5 5 1.6526 0.861898 3939.56 1.33616 8.48582 8.48582 0.892661
50 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
51 3 5 5 1.65868 0.861629 3938.96 1.33577 8.48331 8.48331 0.892135
52 3 5 5 1.6617 0.81495 3938.65 1.33557 8.48207 8.48207 0.891872
Mo 18 3 5 5 1.64346 0.862302 3940.47 1.33675 8.48958 8.48958 0.893452
19 3 5 5 1.64956 0.862032 3939.86 1.33636 8.48706 8.48706 0.892924
20 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
21 3 5 5 1.6617 0.861495 3938.65 1.33557 8.48207 8.48207 0.891872
22 3 5 5 1.66775 0.861228 3938.05 1.33518 8.47958 8.47958 0.89135
Mh 0.2 3 5 5 1.72084 0.863481 3945.41 1.33848 8.50055 8.50055 0.895763
0.3 3 5 5 1.69047 0.862483 3942.30 1.33702 8.49126 8.49126 0.893807
0.4 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
0.5 3 5 5 1.63441 0.860515 3936.26 1.33413 8.47295 8.47295 0.889956
0.6 3 5 5 1.60847 0.859544 3933.32 1.33271 8.46391 8.46391 0.888058
SA 98 3 5 5 1.64956 0.862032 3939.86 1.33636 8.48706 8.48706 0.892924
99 3 5 5 1.6526 0.861898 3939.56 1.33616 8.48582 8.48582 0.892661
100 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
101 3 5 5 1.65868 0.861629 3938.96 1.33577 8.48331 8.48331 0.892135
102 3 5 5 1.6617 0.861495 3938.65 1.33557 8.48207 8.48207 0.891872
So 38 3 5 5 1.64956 0.862032 3939.86 1.33636 8.48706 8.48706 0.892924
39 3 5 5 1.6526 0.861898 3939.58 1.33616 8.48582 8.48582 0.892661
40 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
41 3 5 5 1.65868 0.861629 3938.96 1.33577 8.48331 8.48331 0.892135
42 3 5 5 1.6617 0.861495 3938.65 1.33557 8.48207 8.48207 0.891872
Sh 0.4 3 5 5 1.68775 0.865855 3942.98 1.34196 8.52204 8.52204 0.900425
0.5 3 5 5 1.6714 0.86379 3941.11 1.33893 8.50342 8.50342 0.896369
0.6 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
0.7 3 5 5 1.64043 0.859773 3937.44 1.3305 8.46604 8.46604 0.888506
0.8 3 5 5 1.62574 0.857818 3935.64 1.33018 8.44785 8.44785 0.884691
η 0.6 3 5 5 1.65222 0.865028 3143.51 1.34075 6.38621 6.38621 0.8988
0.7 3 5 5 1.65393 0.863395 3541.38 1.33835 7.43728 7.43728 0.895594
0.8 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
0.9 3 5 5 1.65736 0.860131 4337.14 1.33357 9.52805 9.52805 0.889205
1 3 5 5 1.65908 0.858499 4735.02 1.33118 10.5677 10.5677 0.886019
ξ 0.5 3 5 5 1.66253 0.85523 3930.8 1.32639 12.6381 12.6381 0.879654
0.6 3 5 5 1.65908 0.858497 3935.02 1.33118 10.5689 10.5689 0.886015
0.7 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
0.8 3 5 5 1.65222 0.865029 3943.51 1.34075 6.38498 6.38498 0.898802
0.9 3 5 5 1.64882 0.868295 3947.78 1.34553 4.2702 4.2702 0.905229
ψ 0.6 3 5 5 1.65948 0.858121 3934.53 3.61701 9.66437 9.66437 2.40645
0.7 3 5 5 1.65718 0.860298 3937.36 2.19909 8.98866 8.98866 1.46659
0.8 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
0.9 3 5 5 1.6546 0.862759 3940.55 0.811187 8.10925 8.10925 0.542449
1 3 5 5 1.65388 0.863442 3941.44 0.492378 7.83019 7.83019 0.329505
K 0.6 3 5 5 1.65222 0.865028 3943.51 1.34075 6.38621 6.38621 0.8988
0.7 3 5 5 1.65393 0.863395 3941.38 1.33835 7.43728 7.43728 0.895549
0.8 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
0.9 3 5 5 1.65736 0.860131 3937.14 1.33357 9.52805 9.52805 0.889205
1 3 5 5 1.65908 0.858499 3935.02 1.33118 10.5677 10.5677 0.886019
So 38 3 5 5 1.64956 0.862032 3939.86 1.33636 8.48706 8.48706 0.892924
39 3 5 5 1.6526 0.861898 3939.56 1.33616 8.48582 8.48582 0.892661
40 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
41 3 5 5 1.65868 0.861629 3938.96 1.33577 8.48331 8.48331 0.892135
42 3 5 5 1.6617 0.861495 3938.65 1.33557 8.48207 8.48207 0.891872
R 1.8 3 5 5 1.65553 0.861866 3939.39 1.2025 8.48552 8.48552 0.803339
1.9 3 5 5 1.65559 0.861815 3939.32 1.26924 8.48505 8.48505 0.847874
2 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
2.1 3 5 5 1.6557 0.881712 3938.89 1.43345 8.6702 8.6702 0.978468
2.2 3 5 5 1.65575 0.86166 3939.12 1.46939 8.4836 8.4836 0.981415
Cr 0.8 3 5 5 1.65543 0.861969 3939.52 1.06901 8.48648 8.48648 0.71424
0.9 3 5 5 1.65553 0.861866 3939.39 1.2025 8.48552 8.48552 0.803339
1 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
1.1 3 5 5 1.65575 0.86166 3939.12 1.46939 8.4836 8.4836 0.981415
1.2 3 5 5 1.65586 0.861558 3938.99 1.60279 8.48265 8.48265 1.07039
Wr 0.8 3 5 5 1.65543 0.861969 3939.52 1.33626 8.48648 8.48648 0.71424
0.9 3 5 5 1.65553 0.861866 3939.39 1.33611 8.48552 8.48552 0.803339
1 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
1.1 3 5 5 1.65575 0.86166 3939.12 1.33581 8.4836 8.4836 0.981415
1.2 3 5 5 1.65586 0.861558 3938.99 1.35566 8.48265 8.48265 1.07039
W 1.8 3 5 5 1.65553 0.861866 3939.39 1.33611 8.48552 8.48552 0.892599
1.9 3 5 5 1.65559 0.861815 3939.32 1.33604 8.48505 8.48505 0.892499
2 3 5 5 1.65564 0.861763 3939.26 1.33596 8.48456 8.48456 0.892397
2.1 3 5 5 1.6557 0.861712 3939.19 1.33589 8.48409 8.48409 0.892297
2.2 3 5 5 1.65575 0.86166 3939.12 1.33581 8.4836 8.4836 0.892195

18
E. Peter John and U. Mishra
behind the oil sector. And as the industry expands, so does environ­
mental devastation. Due to fast fashion, the prices of clothes decreased,
which led to the production of more clothes and the frequent buying and
throwing habits of people. In the pre-consumer stage, lots of scrap
clothes are generated from the cutting room, design room, sewing room,
and in the process of producing different kinds of dresses for men,
women, and kids. This model is transforming those scraps of clothes into
fashion by investing in waste minimization technology. Combining and
stitching different scrap cloth pieces into one and making creative and
beautiful, unique style t-shirts, pants, masks, cloth bags, etc., as shown in
Fig. 1. The newly produced dresses can be sold at a reasonable price and
make a profit. This way, the fashion industry will earn more profit with
less expense and reduce emissions, pollution, and new resource con­
sumption. It will encourage and motivate people to adopt a sustainable
and eco-friendly lifestyle. It will change the current trend and mindset of
people towards environmental protection responsibility and a zero-
waste lifestyle. Since the model uses green technology for power sup­
ply, electricity costs can be saved by at least 30%. Scrap clothes are
directly collected from the textile industry, so the water consumption in
the fashion industry will be reduced. In the post-consumer stage, valu­
able and reusable parts from old clothes can be taken and again used to
make fashionable clothes. This approach will change the entire fashion
industry into more sustainable and people’s perspective of lifestyle will
change into eco-friendlier and sustainable.
8. Conclusion
The textile, apparel, and fashion industries consume a vast percent­
age of non-renewable resources, generating waste and all kinds of
pollution and harming the environment badly. This research developed
an integrated and sustainable three-layer supply chain model for the
textile industry by implementing circular economy concepts, waste­
water treatment, zero-waste minimization technology, green technol­
ogy, and a carbon cap and trade policy. The profit of an integrated model
is calculated, as well as the profit of the supplier, manufacturer, and
retailer models separately. The profit comparison results show that the
integrated model profited by around 2% more than the sum of separate
profits. The optimal strategies of wastewater treatment technology,
zero-waste minimization technology, green technology, and carbon tax
policy are found with an optimal circularity index and cycle time. The
pre-consumer textile waste is utilized by implementing the zero-waste
technique at the manufacturer stage, as shown in Fig. 1. Post-
consumer waste cloths are collected and recycled for reuse, as shown
in Fig. 1. Investment in waste minimization technology reduced 97.86%
of the manufacturer’s waste costs. Wastewater treatment technology is
implemented in the dyeing process of fabric at the supplier stage. In­
vestment in wastewater treatment technology reduced 98.95% of
wastewater costs. Green technology and carbon cap and trade policy is
Appendices.
Appendix A
Concavity of three-layer integrated supply chain model
2
∂ ITP 2(SA + MA d1 + d1 g2 Mo + nd1 d2 Ro + g1 So )
=− = L1
∂2 T T 3 d1 d2
19
Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642
applied in both the supplier and manufacturing stages. Investment in
green technology reduced 57.42% of supplier and manufacturer emis­
sion costs. Numerical examples showed the applicability of this model
and its benefits in the textile and clothing industries. Most of the pre­
vious studies concentrated on minimizing total cost or increasing profit
for textile companies. Only a few studies focused on reducing environ­
mental damage, and those studies were confined to specific issues such
as carbon emissions or waste reduction alone. So, in this paper, envi­
ronmental protection technologies and techniques are implemented to
reduce waste and pollution in the textile industry at every supply chain
stage as well as increase profit. The model created a clean and healthy
environment for society by reducing the textile and clothing industry’s
GHG emissions, waste disposal, and wastewater discharge into the
rivers.
8.1. Limitations
This research concentrated on supply chains with a single supplier-
manufacturer and multiple retailers. However, in many real-life situa­
tions, multiple suppliers, manufacturers, and retailers are involved in
the supply chain process. Another limitation in this work is that in­
vestment money is needed for implementing environmental protection
technologies. One key limitation is that subsidies and support are
needed for the implementation of this model.
8.2. Future research
This work can be extended to a three-layer supply chain model
consisting of multiple suppliers, manufacturers, and retailers. A similar
model can be developed by considering stochastic demand rather than
deterministic demand with transportation costs.
Credit author statement
Ezhilarasan Peter John: Conceptualization, Methodology, Re­
sources, Formal analysis, Writing-original draft, Visualization. Uma­
kanta Mishra: Conceptualization, Methodology, Software, Validation,
Formal analysis, Writing-review & editing.
Declaration of competing interest
The authors declare that they have no known competing financial
interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence
the work reported in this paper.
Data availability
No data was used for the research described in the article.
E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

⎛ ⎛ ⎞ ⎞
⎜ naR a(− 1 + d2 ) ⎟
⎜− h aSh d2 (aα + λmo ) 1 ⎜ ⎜ ⎟ ⎟
⎜ − − Mh ⎝ 2a(2 − d2 )(aα + λmo ) ⎟ ⎠ ⎟
⎜ 2 g2 Mp 2 + ⎟
⎜ M ⎟
⎜ p ⎟
⎜ ⎛ ⎞⎟
⎜ ( ) ⎟
2 2
∂ ITP ∂ ITP ⎜ 1 ⎟
⎜ ⎜ 2a 1 − (a α + λ ) ⎟ ⎟
= = L3 = L2 = ⎜ ⎜ so
⎟ ⎟
∂T ∂α ∂α∂T ⎜ g2
⎜ ⎜ a(− 1 + d1 ) + ⎟⎟
⎜ aho d1 d2 (aα + λso ) 1 ⎜ M ⎟⎟
⎜− ⎜ p ⎟⎟
⎜ − Sh d2 ⎜ ) ⎟⎟
⎜ g S 2 ⎜ ( 2 ⎟⎟
1 p
⎜ ⎟⎟
⎜
⎜ ⎜ 2a − d1 + g2 (aα + λso ) ⎟⎟
⎝ ⎝+ ⎠⎟⎠
Sp

( ( (( ) ) )
a aTS
( h d2 g1 − 2 + d1 g2 ( Mp − g2 Sp ) )
∂2 ITP +g2 − aTho d1 d2 Mp + g1 aTMh (− 2 + d2 ) + 2b(2 + n)Mp Sp
= L4 =
∂2 α g1 g2 Mp Sp
⃒ ⃒
⃒ L L2 ⃒
Det H = ⃒⃒ 1 ⃒. To assure concavity, it must be negative semi-definite. It is observed that
L3 L4 ⃒
det(H) = L1 L4 − L2 L3 > 0

Appendix B

Manufacturer concavity
Differentiate Equation (13) partially w. r.t T and α, and equating to zero, then optimal cycle time T and optimal circularity index α is
⎛ ⎞
⎜ MA +g2 Mo ⎟
⎜ d2
( )⎟
T =⎜ 2 ⎟
⎝h2
S d (a α+λ ) 1
M α λ (− 2+d2 )(aα+λmo ) ⎠
mo ) − 1 + d2 −
mo
2g2 Mp
+ 2 h
(a + Mp

and
⎛ ⎞
⎜aK(1 + (− 1 + e− Gψ μψ 1 aTMh (− 2+d2 )λmo aTSh d2 λmo ⎟
)ξ)η + ae− RCr − aTMh + 12 aTMh d2 − apmo − bλmo − +
α=⎜
2 Mp g2 Mp ⎟
⎜ a2 TMh (− 2+d2 ) a2 TSh d2
⎟
⎝ 2ab + − ⎠
Mp g2 Mp

∂2 MTP 2(MA + g2 Mo )
=− = M1
∂2 T T 3 d2
⎛ ⎞
a(− 1 + d2 )
∂2 MTP ∂2 MTP aSh d2 (aα + λmo ) 1 ⎜ ⎟
= = M3 = M2 = − − Mh ⎝ 2a(2 − d2 )(aα + λmo ) ⎠
∂T ∂α ∂α∂T g2 Mp 2 +
Mp

and
⃒ ⃒
∂2 MTP a2 TMh (2 − d2 ) a2 TSh d2 ⃒ M M2 ⃒
= 2ab − − = M4 . Det H = ⃒⃒ 1 ⃒
∂2 α Mp g2 Mp M3 M4 ⃒

To assure concavity, it must be negative semi-definite. It is observed that

det(H) = M1 M4 − M2 M3 > 0

Appendix C

Differentiate Equation (23) partially w. r.t T and α, and equating to zero, then optimal cycle time T and optimal circularity index α is

20
E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

SA +g1 So
d1 d2
T= (
⎛ 1) ⎞
1− (a α + λso )
g2
⎜ − 1 + d1 + ⎟
⎜ Mp ⎟
ho d1 d2 (a α+λso )2 1 ⎜ ⎟
+ S d (a α + λ )⎜ ) ⎟
2g1 Sp 2 h 2 so
⎜ ( 2 ⎟
⎝ − d1 + (a α + λso ) ⎠
g2
+
Sp

and
⎛ aK ( 1 − ( 1 − e− G ψ )ξ)η + 1 aTS (− 1 + d )d − ap − bλ ⎞
h 1 2 so so
2
⎜ ( ) ( ) ⎟
⎜ ⎟
⎝ aTSh d2 1 − 1 λso aTSh d2 − d2 +
2
λmo ⎠
g2 aTho d1 d2 λso g2
+ + +
Mp gS Sp
α= ⎛ ( ) 1 p ( )⎞
a2 TSh d2 1− 1 a2 TSh d2 − d2 +g2
g2
⎝2ab − a2 Tho d1 d2 2
⎠
Mp
− g1 Sp
− Sp

2 2(SA +g1 So )
Supplier concavity ∂ ∂STP
2
T
= − T3 d1 d2
= N1 , and
( ⎛ ⎞
1)
⎜ 2a 1 − (a α + λ )
so ⎟
⎜ a(− 1 + d ) + g2 ⎟
2 2 ⎜ 1
M ⎟
∂ STP ∂ STP aho d1 d2 (aα + λso ) 1 ⎜ p ⎟
= = N3 = N2 = − Sh d2 ⎜
⎜ ( ) ⎟
⎟
∂T ∂α ∂α∂T g1 Sp 2 ⎜ 2 ⎟
⎜ 2a − d1 + (aα + λso ) ⎟
⎝ g2 ⎠
+
Sp

( ⎛ ) ( ) ⎞
1
2
∂ STP 1
2
⎜2a 1 − g2
2a2 − d1 + g22 a Tho d1 d2 ⎟
2
⎜
= 2ab − TSh d2 ⎝ + − ⎟ = N4
∂2 α 2 Mp Sp g1 Sp ⎠

⃒ ⃒
⃒N N2 ⃒⃒
Det H = ⃒⃒ 1 . To assure concavity, it must be negative semi-definite. It is observed that det(H) = N1 N4 − N2 N3 > 0.
N3 N4 ⃒

Appendix D

Glossary

Decision variables. G Green technology investment cost solar panel installing investment cost ($/y)
T Cycle time for multi-retailers
α Circularity index of clothes (0 ≤ α ≤ 1)
δ Wastewater treatment technology investment cost to minimize waste water dumping ($/y)
μ Fashion cloths making investment cost from scarp cloths to minimize scarp cloth dumping ($/y)

Parameters of manufacturer
Cr Costs associated with waste production ($/unit/y)
d1 Integer multiplier (cycle time of manufacturer) Ts = d1 Tm (Ts = d1 d2 T)
g2 Shipments of raw materials are received by the manufacturer within their cycle time.
MA Cost of each setup ($/setup)
Mh Finished products holding cost of manufacturer ($/unit/y)
MO Cost of ordering for each order ($/order)
Mp Rate of production for the manufacturer (units/y)
pmo Initial profit of manufacturer ($/unit)
Qm Manufacturer lot size per cycle (units)
R Waste production rate (units/y)
λmo Manufacturer initial demand rate of clothes (the clothes demand in a non-circular form) (units/y)

Parameters of supplier
g1 Shipments of raw materials are received by the supplier within their cycle time.
ho Raw material (cotton or fabric) holding cost of supplier per unit per unit time.
pso Initial profit of supplier ($/unit)
Qs Supplier lot size per cycle (unit)
SA Production setup cost of supplier ($/setup)
Sh Supplier finished product Holding cost for per unit and raw materials of manufacturer per unit time ($/unit/y)

21
E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

So Raw material ordering cost of supplier ($/order)

Sp Rate of production for the supplier (units/y)
λso Supplier initial demand rate of product (the raw material demand in a non-circular form) (units/y)

Parameters Retailer
d2 The retailer’s cycle time integer multiplier Tm = d2 T (Ts = d1 d2 T)
n Number of retailers
pro Initial profit of retailer ($/unit)
Rh The per unit holding cost for the retailers per unit time ($/unit/y)
Ro Retailer ordering cost ($/order)
λro Retailer’s initial demand rate of product (without circularity index)

Circular functions
λ(ω) Average demand function of cloths (units/y)
p(ω) Unit profit function of cloths ($/unit)

Common parameters
J Carbon allowance (t/y)
K Amount of carbon emission associated per unit produced (t/unit/y)
ζ The reduced amount of carbon emission when green technology is invested (t/unit/y)
η Carbon tax ($/t)
ψ Changes green technology’s capability to minimize emissions

Key parameter
Cr is cost due scrap cloths and storage of it ($/unit)
R is the scrap cloths production rate while cutting raw cloths (unit/y)
W is the wastewater production generation rate in the dyeing process (L/y)
Wr Cost due to wastewater generation ($/unit)
φ Represents the efficiency of wastewater treatment technology to the reduce wastewater mixing into rivers
ψ Efficiency of converting cloth scraps into fashion clothing

Abbreviations
ITP Integrated total profit
MTP Manufacturer total profit
MWCM Minimized waste cost of manufacturer
MECM Minimized emission cost of manufacturer
MECS Minimized emission cost of supplier
MWTCS Minimized wastewater treatment cost of supplier
RTP Retailers total profit
STP Supplier total profit

Appendix E

Assumptions

• The demand of cloths is a function of the circularity index (α). So, it can be written as λ(α) = λ0 + a α, where 0 ≤ α ≤ 1 and a represents the
maximum additional demand factor (Rabta, 2020; Thomas and Mishra, 2022).
• The price index of clothes p is a function of circularity index (α). So, it can be written as (α) = p0 + b α. The circularity index means that, how much
percentage of the original clothes can be recycled and used it again (Rabta, 2020; Thomas and Mishra, 2022).
• The supplier and manufacturer implement technologies to reduce the emission through GI. Implementing of GI can reduce a portion of the
emissions is Z (G) = ξ(1 − e− ψ G ), where ψ , and ξ denotes the efficiency of the green technology to reduce emission and amount of emission after GI
′

( )[ ( )]
respectively. Then G = − ψ1 In 1 − Zξ , where G = 0, 1, 2, ... if G = 0, then Z (0) = 0, when lim Z (G) = ξ and Z is a function continuously
′ ′ ′ ′

G→∞
differentiable of G (Sepehri, 2021; Mashud et al., 2021).
• W(μ) = 1 − e− ψ μ , where μ is the cost to minimize scrap cloth dumping and ψ represents the efficiency of converting scrap cloths into the fashion
cloths to reduce scrap dumping. 1 − W(μ) = e− ψ μ is the percentage reduction of scrap cloths dumping rate. W(μ) = 1 − e− ψ μ is twice differentiable
and concave with respect to investment of fashion cloth making technique μ. When μ = 0 then W→0, and if μ→∞ then W→1 (Thomas and Mishra,
2022).
• P(δ) = 1 − e− φ δ whereδ is the cost to minimize the wastewater dumping of textile companies and φ represents the efficiency of wastewater
treatment technology to the reduce wastewater dumping. 1 − P(δ) = e− φ δ is the percentage reduction of wastewater dumping rate. P(δ) = 1− e− φ δ
is twice differentiable and concave with respect to investment in wastewater treatment technology δ. When δ = 0 then P→0, and if δ→ ∞ then P→
1.
• The demand rate for suppliers, manufacturers, and retailers is the same. There is no problem with benefit sharing since the supply chain is in­
tegrated vertically. All retailers in the supply chain are considered to have the same holding and ordering costs.

22
E. Peter John and U. Mishra Journal of Cleaner Production 388 (2023) 135642

• The supplier’s cycle time is an integer multiplier of the manufacturer’s cycle time, which is an integer multiplier of the retailers’ cycle time.
Holding costs of inventory are rising downstream as a result of value-added operations performed on the product as it moves down the supply
chain.

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