Professional Documents
Culture Documents
By Dan Tal
“When you walk, the world has neither present nor future:
nothing but the cycle of mornings and evenings.”
―F rédéric Gros
2016-09-10 DAY Zero: From Alon Hagalil Junction to Kibbutz Dan (on bus)
Today at 21:45 I am boarding the bus at Alonim Junction that will take me, with other
members of the group called Walk About Love (WAL) to the trailhead at Kibbutz Dan. Still I
don't possess any information about the participants, how many are there, what is the age
group, background etc. Partial information with a photo was posted only about one member
- her name is Tina and it's her seventh hike on this trail. She is our guardian dog.
The planned walking distance is cc 760 km. It's less than advertised 1000 km by the WAL group on
the website because approximately 200 km is by bus. The duration of the walk is brutto 62 days, this
includes 8 Saturdays and 7 holidays, so there are only 47 net walking days.
At the end of the journey log is the actual itinerary of the trek.
Peter (Dan)
Map showing the route from Alon Hagalil Junction to Kibbutz Dan.
1
2016-09-11 DAY 1: From Kibbutz Dan to Ein Roim
The bus yesterday came one and half hours late. So the arrival to the trailhead in front of Ussishkin
Museum in kibbutz Dan was at 1:30am. It took me another 20 minutes to set up the tent and to get
into the sleeping bag.
Today I hit the trail at 9:00. The path went along Lebanese border between avocado and apple
orchards. Some parts of the route followed the Snir stream. During lunch hours the air was hot,
around 35 °C. Most of the walk I did alone, but during the breaks I joined other fellows to sit in the
shade of eucalyptus trees on the bank of Ayun stream. I met some interesting people: Adam from
Australia lives in Prague with his girlfriend from Zilina (she is not here). He brought with him a
bottle of genuine slovak slivovitz that for some good reason he shared it with me. On his left leg he
has a tattoo with Czech and Slovak emblems.
Surprisingly I am not the eldest one. Jossi has not disclosed his age, but my estimate is around 75.
He did this trail already last year with the same organizers. He hiked a lot in India and Nepal. He
did the Annapurna Circle four years ago. Each year in february he moves to India for three months.
I am writing these lines from my tent. The wind is so strong that to set up the tents we had to work
four people together.
2
Interesting spots: Tel Dan archaeological site, Trumpeldor Memorial
3
2016-09-12 DAY 2 From Ein Roim to Haela Camp near Ramot Naftali
Today's message is short. It's late and I am tired after hiking 18 km, mostly uphill. The sun had no
mercy, temperature was 37 °C and along the trail were only few bushes or trees for shade. One
has to be with masochistic personality disorder to hike in such conditions. Today we were 30
hikers in the group plus two dogs, Tina and Rocko. On the trail we met a dozen individual hikers.
We arrived at camp 28. Li-Paz and Yaniv left. This surprised me, Li-Paz looked more tough with
experience from hiking in Bolivia and Peru.
Today's trail, in spite of the harsh conditions, gave rewards in the form of views from the slopes of
Naftali hills into the Huleh Valley, guarded from the east by Golan heights. Mount Hermon was all
the way behind our backs hiding partly in the haze.
4
Lunch break in the shade. From the left: First row Maya, Adam, Cager, second row Horev, ?, standing Pnini
5
2016-09-13 DAY 3: From Haela Camp To Dishon
A few words about the group -
Nationalities represented: one from France, one from Australia, 6 Americans and the rest Israelis.
Age distribution: 3 above 60, 2 above 50, 1 above 40, 5 above 30, 12 above 20 and 5 aged 18.
Today I hiked in the company of Eli from Petah Tikvah. Interesting guy, self educated without any
profession, likes indie, experimental and alternate music. Subjects of our talk were diverse - Lenin,
WWI, Yuval Harari, skills of fakirs.
We departed from the camp at 8:00. The trail went into the Wadi Kadesh and continued with a
steep ascent to al-Nabi Yusha Fortress built by the British during the mandate. The fortress was
renamed after 1948 to Metzudat Koach.
At one place we stopped to rest with the youngest members of our group in the shade of an olive
tree. They were in the middle of a heated argument about anarchism as a cure for maladies of the
democracies. Eli joined the discussion, I continued on the trail.
After some 6 km the trail entered into a valley with pomegranate and pears orchards, best stop for
a break.
I have to finish writing for today, Shiran wants me to join the dance in the circle around the fire.
6
Points of interest: museum at Metzudat Koach, ruins of Al-Nabi supposed shrine.
7
2016-09-14 DAY 4: From Dishon to Horvat Hamama
In yesterday's post I mentioned that Shiran invited me to join in a circle dance around the fire.
Shiran has long black hair and an optimistic smile, aged about 25, from one of the kibbutzim in
Emek Yizrael. She works in Yokneam as an instructor for teenagers from local kibbutzim.
After the 16km hike, the dance was the last thing I desired. I excused myself and dived into the
tent.
Today's hike was in the heart of the Upper Galilee. The trail was longer but easier. The ascent in
Wadi Dishon was in the shade of the high cliffs. This region is a territory of porcupines, jackals and
rock badgers. Tourist guides like to entertain clients talking about habits of porcupines, mainly their
vital sexual life. After crossing the road 899 next to the bridge Alma, we walked along a stream
fenced by blackberry bushes loaded with the fruit. After 2 km the trail reached the Aravot spring.
Fresh water poured out from a pipe into a tiny pool. Place for rest, refill of the camel bags and cool
the blisters by dipping the feet in the pool.
After crossing the Baram forest the Mt. Miron appeared ahead on the horizon. Our tonight's camp
is on it’s northern slope in the proximity of Horvat Hamama and the field school Mt. Miron.
This evening I volunteered to serve the dinner. More about everyday routine and camp life will
follow.
8
My lunch.
Taking a short
nap after lunch.
9
2016-09-15 DAY 5: From Horvat Hamama to Ein Koves
Our daily routine starts at 6:00. Two volunteers prepare breakfast and two others lunch. The
breakfast is the same every day - oats meal with compote of assorted canned fruits, silan (date
honey) and raisins. Monotonous and nourishing, nothing more to say about it. Lunch is a
vegetable stew with pasta or rice or couscous. For dessert, mostly apples, dates or avocado.
Everyone takes his lunch box with him in the morning.
After the breakfast Gal or Rea, the organisers with a look of Torah observant hippies, give us
instructions how to get to the next night’s camp and how far it is. The actual distance is usually
about 20% longer . The description of how to get to the camp is vague. Fortunately, the Garmin
navigator that I carry with me, helps to arrive at the destination. It happens that I get phone calls
asking me for directions.
The mats and the bags we leave next to the car trailer. Everyone hits the trail and walks at his own
pace. Most of us arrive at the camp before sunset. It happens every day that some hikers get lost
and arrive later. After arriving at the camp we set up the tents, take showers on the trailer, and
perform maintenance tasks.
The dinner is prepared by volunteers with the supervision of the chef Avi, a tall guy from a kibbutz.
The dinner is a vegetable stew with pasta or rice or couscous, yes, the same as lunch, sometimes
with addition of boiled eggs. Everything is cooked in a big pot on the fire. No meat. I don't
complain, after a long hike it tastes perfect.
Two or three of us prepare a campfire and we sit around it. Shouting "food circle" announces the
time to serve the food. Normally it is between 20:00 to 21:00.The young ones in the company start
to play on guitar, sing and dance. I retreat to the tent.
10
Summary of today's trail:
Total walked distance: 17.9 km
Points of interest: Summit of Mt. Miron, the grave of rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai, Wadi Amud with
water pools
11
View into the Wadi Amud
12
2016-09-16 DAY 6: From Ein Koves to Migdal
Yesterday I was too tired to send the daily account of the journey. It was in my mind to do it during
the shabbat.
Before yesterday the evening hours at Ein Koves campground were coloured by a mystic
illumination from Zefat located less than 1km to the north.
Naked men with long beards were dipping themselves in clear waters of the Ein Koves. (Ein [ ]עיןin
hebrew is a spring). There were also small children among them. Breslov Hasidim probably. The
appearance of women in our group has not disturbed their bathing ritual.
I departed from the camp at 8:15 AM. The lights from Zefat were gone. Three naked Hasidim
bathed in the spring's pool without paying any attention to me. I took a picture of them, only then
one of them waved in my direction. I promised him not to publish the photo on the Internet.
After almost 1 km steep descent into the canyon I arrived at the Israel Trail, hiking the whole length
of the Wadi Amud. (Amud [ ]עמודin hebrew is a pillar). At one point I met a young Botero type
woman, not from our group, sitting on a rock, sweating and panting. Next to her was a backpack,
weighing, I guess, 25kg at least. She accepted my suggestion to help her by putting part of the
content of her food into my bag, including a big camera. Her name is Miriam, age 34, works in
Klagenfurt as a social worker, studied theology and speaks English with a British accent. Her
parents live in Nuremberg. We walked in tandem till the estuary where the trail crosses the road
8099 to Hukok. She took to the left, her destination Tabha and I followed the trail straight. My
today’s destination was Hukok Beach at Lake Kinneret (Galilee Sea). I met one of our guys, Zadok,
with Tina and a few other members when a message arrived on Whatsapp from Rea. The camp is
not at Hukok Beach, it was moved 4 km further to the south to Migdal Beach near Villa Melchett.
What a fuck!!!! - Zadok’s reaction. He and the others hit the road to hitchhike. I followed on the trail
with my turtle style walk.
Zadok is 18, from Tel Aviv area. He is before his enrolment into the army to a cyber-warfare unit
GAMA.
Two hours later I met them at Khilek Junction, together with Eli, Sophie and Pnini, sitting on the
terrace, eating falafel and refreshing themselves with a beer.
It was already after sunset, the orange moon was full with a subtle lunar eclipse when we arrived at
the camp. I decided not to stay on site during the weekend and traveled home to regain energy for
the following week.
13
Summary:
Total walked distance: 18.9km
Start location: Ein Koves
Finish: Migdal Beach
14
Wadi Amud.
Lunch break in Wadi Amud. From the left: Pnini Sophie, Horev, Jennie, Miriam (individual
hiker from Germany), me, Maayan
15
2016-09-17/18 DAYS 7-8: From Migdal to Swiss Forest at Poriah
Today our group entered the Lower Galilee region. The group has shrunk significantly, we are now
15 members. The temperature is 31 °C
.
The hike started at the elevation 212 m below sea level. Netta, my daughter, joined me this
morning to climb Mt. Arbel. On the way we saw the national bird of Israel - hoopoe.
Netta took ahead with long steps. I couldn't follow her pace. When I reached the remnants of the
cliff cave dwellings, she was already on the top of the mountain. A car was waiting to pick her up
near Arbel village, so we said hello on the phone.
At Amram's mini-market in Tiberias I met Zadok with Tina and the individual hiker Sami surrounded
by five teenage hikers, one of them the fervent anarchist. Sami started his journey in Kibbutz Dan
on the same day with us. He carries on his back all his gear, including a tiny tent, water and food.
It makes me wonder how efficiently he packs all the items in his bag that looks not much bigger
than mine. Sami is an aeronautical engineer, in his fifties, works for Rafael.
In Amram's store you can get items you don't see in many places in Israel, like Dr. Pepper. Of
course, this was my choice. Finishing the doctor, I continued to pamper myself with a bottle of
Leffe Blond.
16
Mt. Nitai.
17
2016-09-19 DAY 9: From Swiss Forest at Poriah to Yavniel
Summary:
Starting at Swiss Forest near Tiberias
Finishing at Yavniel
Walked distance 18.7 km
Points of interest:
Moshava Kinneret with basalt buildings; the grave of poet Rachel; Jordan river
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Refreshment in the Jordan River.
19
2016-09-20 DAY 10: From Yavniel to Kibbutz Gazit
Netta with my grandkids including Mika, their dog, arrived at the camp yesterday evening. Netanel
came a little bit later,brought me plasters for blisters. The kids were excited by the atmosphere in
the camp, everyone had a good time.
Netanel left earlier, about at 8pm Netta decided to stay overnight with the kids, all of them slept in
my tent. I slept outside under the starry sky in a sleeping bag on a foam mattress. Mika slept next
to me. After waking up at six in morning, we couldn't find Mika. We searched for her between the
bushes, called her name. No result.
After about half an hour Cager, a guy from Minnesota, approached us with the news that he saw
Mika lying dead behind a bush, about 50 m from our location.
I dug a small grave, put her tiny body into it and covered it with soil and stones. Netta told the kids
that Mika passed away. Eitan burst into tears, Jona and Arieli just stared at the grave not
apprehending the concept of death. I asked them to find rocks and put them on the grave.
The trail wasn't difficult today but the air was hot, dry and without a flow. Each step raised a cloud
of dust. One had to rest more frequently.
Summary:
Walking distance 18.2 km
Start at Yavniel, finish at Kibbutz Gazit
Points of interest: Exceptional views of Jordan Valley on east and on the west of Mt. Tabor
20
Last view into Jordan Valley and Lake Kinneret.
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2016-09-21 DAY 11: From Kibbutz Gazit to Mt. Deborah
Yesterday my sandals fell apart. Luckily in Kibbutz Gazit is a store with hiking accessories where I
bought a new pair of Shoresh sandals. Because of the blisters I am unable to put on the hiking
shoes.
Today we left the Jezreel Valley at its eastern end and climbed up two mountains - Mt. Tabor and
Mt. Deborah. On Mt. Tabor we stopped for a rest in the picnic area of the Franciscan monastery.
This is the place where judge Deborah won the battle against the army of Jabin in 12th century
BCE.
In the monastery souvenir shop one can buy beverages and coffee.
My lifestyle is quite ascetic. During the day the only fluid that enters my body is water. My lunch
was one pita with tahini spread and garlic. For a dessert an apple. Franciscan friars will surely
accept me to their rows.
Tonight we camp on the top of Mt. Deborah.
22
On the trail to Mt. Tabor.
23
2016-09-22 DAY 12: From Mt. Deborah to Alonim Forest
Before we departed for the hike this morning, Rea started to sing and dance accompanied by Gal
on a darbuka. Everyone joined after his/her name was called.
We said goodbye to Mt. Tabor and headed in the direction of Ein Mahal, a small arab town on the
eastern slope of Mt. Jona. Getting there our company decided to take a bus to Nazareth to see the
Basilica of Annunciation and to taste locale hummus. I prefered to walk on the trail so I was left
alone. Passing the new housing complex on Mt. Jonah the trail crossed a small arab village
Mashhad, where by muslim tradition the prophet Jonah is buried. Refilling myself with beer and the
camel bag with water I continued up to the grave of rabbi Judah Hanassi near Zippori
archaeological site. There I met with the members of our group who arrived on the bus from
Nazareth.
At Alon Hagalil I met my friend Gadir Raffe from the bedouin village Bir-al-Maksur. What a
coincidence, I was just thinking about him when I crossed the road 79 near his village.
24
Group photo before departure on the trail. From the left: Pnini, Adam, me, Sophie, Rea, Maya,
Eden, Jeannie, Maayan, Yossi, Zadok, Maayan
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2016-09-23/24 DAY 13-14: From Alonim Forest to Kibbutz Shaar Haamakim
This mail is written from my armchair at home during the Shabbat rest.
Some of you gave me an alert about the problem to open the link to MapMyHike. As it appears,
one can see the logged trail only after signing up to the website. Sorry about this, folks. I was pretty
sure that the access is straightforward. Beneath I have embedded a map including elevations from
yesterday's hike. Unfortunately I am not able to do this on my phone during the weekdays. On
weekends I'll send the daily hikes in a separate mail.
Every morning there are two "chosen" members from the group responsible to prepare breakfast
and to cook lunch. Yesterday it was my and Zadok's turn. This means one has to wake up at 5:30.
I woke up a quarter hour ahead of the muezzins' calls from nearby bedouin villages, that is at 5:00.
Breakfast is not a big deal - it's always porridge. We have improved the taste by adding to it
shredded apples, dates and raisins. For lunch was a mixture of spanish and hungarian omelette.
We used a few leftovers from the last dinner (but this is concealed info).
26
The hike started with a refreshing morning rain. The trail was easy, no steep climbs, no diving
declines. Most of the trek I walked with Jossi and his friend Nira. Nira joint our team yesterday
evening at Alon Hagalil. She is about my age, short figure and short gray hair. In the bedouin
village Ka'abiye we stopped at a grocery store for a refreshment. Canned Mojito drink was my
choice, Jossi followed me.
Nira asked me where I was from originally, After hearing Slovakia, her face expressed a certain
satisfaction as if she had been expecting this answer. At my turn I asked her if she has some
relation to Slovakia. "This I cannot tell you, it's my secret", was her response.
No drop of mojito remained in the can. We continued our journey.
On the trail there were a lot of bikers enjoying the mild weather. My next stop was at the Hermit's
Mill located on the Zippori stream. Sitting under a palm I took a lunch break. At the near field a
galloping black filly chased by two bedouin boys allured me for the rest of the break.
After crossing the road 762 Netta joined me with the trio Eitan, Jonah and Ariely, Ariely sitting in a
hiking carrier on her back. They live less than 3km from this place. The trail descended into a wide
valley below the village Zubaydat. A herd of cattle followed us down the valley and the kids
imitated their voices. Arieli dominated in mooing. After an hour walk the trail crossed a path to
Tivon. Netta and the kids took the path up the hill and I continued down the valley. Ariely changed
the mooing for calling "abba", which in his language means "saba" (grandpa in hebrew).
27
Hiking in the Wadi Tzipori
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2016-09-25 DAY 15: From Kibbutz Shaar Haamakim to Horvat Raqit
I am struggling with MapMyHike to get the link of today's hike. I cannot see it on the website, but
for sure I have saved it. Maybe during the night it will by some virtual miracle appear and I'll be
able to send it to you later.
This morning we left the Lower Galilee and entered the Carmel Mountain national park. On the
segment from Kibbutz Shaar HaAmakim up to Kibbutz Yagur I walked in the company of Pnini,
Maayan and Shiran. Pnini is a steady walker in her mid fifties. She puffs like a steamer but is
walking bravely. She likes to chat during the walk. Now I know that she has two sons and one
daughter. One of the sons is at this time participating in a military drill at Ramat Hagolan. Haim, her
husband is a sportsman. Each winter he spends one or two weeks skiing in the Alps. During the
summer his favorite pastime is scuba diving and mountain biking. Haim is self employed, he has a
welding workshop in a moshav near Rosh HaAyin.
Maayan is 26, but looks much younger. Her black hair contrasts with her pale face. She finished
studying first year cinematography at Kibbutzim Seminar. But she would like to switch to another
field of interest, she has not decided what to choose. She hopes to find out till we reach Eilat. At
Kfar Hassidim village, Shiran joined a jolly old man, about my height, who was walking in the
same direction. His name is Avital and his age is 87. He keeps surprisingly the pace with us. His
destination is Kibbutz Yagur where he lives.
From Yagur the trail starts to climb up in a serpent way above the canyon. From there it got the
name Serpent Path. Shiran was hiking next to me. She likes writing haiku and she likes Yoel
Hoffmann's literary works. This was a surprise for me, I cannot tell why. She also said that her
education she gained not in the school but on the street. So you have a lot of common with Maxim
Gorky, I remarked.
At the picnic area above the scenic road our group took a break. This was an opportunity for me to
exchange a few sentences with a new arrival in our group, Omri. Omri just finished his military
service in IDF elite intelligence unit 8100. Having one and half month free time till beginning his
study of physics at Technion, he decided to join the WalkAboutLove.
Seeing a lot of obscure objects on the trail I have decided to collect them with my phone camera.
Till now I have in my collection a dead chameleon, a pile of arabic books, a purple sofa, a TV set,
an electric heater and a green bag and also a bent spoon, probably Uri Geller’s exertion.
29
Summary:
Start from avocado orchard in Kibbutz Shaar Haamakim
Finish at Horvat Raqit
Walked distance 19.1 km
30
The today's photos:
31
2016-09-26 DAY 16: From Horvat Raqit to Atlit (Monday)
Tami came to pick me up yesterday evening. Our home is not far from Horvat Raqit, something like
20 km. First thing I did was I went to a store to buy 5 pairs of Columbia hiking socks and a pair of
Salomon trekking shoes.
On today's hike I felt the difference. No new blisters, no burning soles.
Today's trail was a short one, barely 13 km. Only a few ascents and climbs on the rocks. We could
see from the trail the blue waters of Mediterranean Sea meeting the blue skies on the horizon. This
brought to my mind lyrics from the song by Ella Fitzgerald:
Blue skies
Smiling at me
Nothing but blue skies
Do I see
I reached the artists village Ein Hod at lunch time. Sitting on the patio of Abu Jacob's restaurant I
met Zeev, owner of the local second hand books store. He recognized me. Some five years ago I
bought at his store a whole set of Will Durant's "The Story of Civilization". For lunch I ordered a
plate with hummus and pita and a bottle of Heineken. That's the only dish on Abu Jacob's menu.
Zeev invited me for a glass of Pernod. By profession Zeev is an artist but has to support himself by
selling books.
After twenty minutes had arrived, Omer (by mistake I introduced him yesterday as Omri)
accompanied by Ricki, Horev, Hilit and Maayan.
I left the company together with Hilit, a cheerful teenager spending her time by drawing sketches of
mythical figures from Mahabharata. At least in my eyes the figures look like that, but maybe they
are a sort of transformers. We walked together from Ein Hod up to the seashore at Atlit. I learned
from her about the dark cabaret music.
32
Summary of today:
Start at Mt. Shokef, 497 m altitude
Finish at Atlit sea shore, 0 m altitude
Walking distance 12.75 km
33
At Abu Jacob’s restaurant. From the left: Maayan, Ricki, Omer, Horev, Hilit
From the left - Zadok, me, Hilit, Horev, Jenie at Atlit seashore.
34
2016-09-27 DAY 17: From Atlit to Gimzo
The whole day was dedicated for relaxation on the beach north of Atlit crusaders fortress.
I took the opportunity to fix my broken glasses in Haifa.
At 18:00 the group boarded a minibus to the campground in Gimzo forest at the foot of Jerusalem's
hills. We skipped the rural areas of Hadera, Netanya, Herzliya and Tel Aviv. The next three days
we are going to climb the hills up to Jerusalem.
The bus driver dropped us at the wrong location. We had to walk 2km in the dark to get to the
camp.
During the 'food circle' dinner, falafel brought for us by Maayan's parents, the news about Shimon
Peres' demise arrived. Sitting around the campfire, each of us at his/her turn said a few sentences
related to Peres.
Today summary:
Start at Atlit, finish at Gimzo
Driving distance 96km
Walked distance 2km
35
The map of night walk at Gimzo.
36
The campground at Atlit.
37
2016-09-28 DAY 18: From Gimzo to Neve Shalom
Today's hike was substantially easier than the trail crossing Mount Carmel. No dramatic changes
in elevations. The path traversed cotton and corn fields, vine and almond orchards. Hilit walked
beside me almost the entire trail. At one spot we took a rest under the shadow of an almond tree.
The abundance of fresh almonds on the ground was a sufficient supplement for lunch. Jossi, the
old veteran on INT, joined us. His tongue is sharp, no reductions or roundabouts, no pretensions,
no posing. He talked about his experience with drugs in India, Nepal and Sinai peninsula. Hilit said
she will go with him in April for a hike in Nepal.
After having finished our lunch we left Jossi and continued up to the Latrun Monastery. We took
refuge in the wine shop. The manager of the shop gave us a royal treatment after hearing that we
are a part of WAL. Rea is his friend. Opened for us a bottle of muscat wine and served us with
arabic coffee. His name is Mina, a christian from Ramleh, sixth generation in Israel. His ancestors
came from Crete.
Summary of today:
Start at Gizmo
Finish at Eshtaol forest above Neve Shalom
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Walked distance 18.6km
Points of interest:
Latrun battles memorial
Emmaus Nicopolis - Place where Jesus appeared after his death
Latrun Monastery
Neve Shalom Arab-Jewish cooperative village
39
2016-09-29 DAY 19: From Neve Shalom to Tzuba (Thursday)
At Neve Shalom camp I had a tossing and unsettled night, with sore throat and runny nose.
Every 15 minutes I put a Ricola candy in my mouth to get rid of the discomfort. Around the
campfire, Zadok with Horev and Maya were choreographing a new version for the morning
departure dance. For the late hour and acoustic reasons I would have preferred they would have
tried a part of the Swan Lake.
During breakfast a rumor was spread that today's walk will be 30 km, mostly up
hill. Part of the participants gave up the hike. Pnini because of inflated blisters, Jossi felt general
weakness, Zadok complained about pains in his metatarsal bones, suspecting fatigue fracture.
After getting instructions from Gal about the trek and performing the new dance that featured
shaking all the body parts, fifteen of us hit the trail, including three newcomers - Yuval, Jossi
(another) and Adi. All of them did the whole INT in March this year, walking from Eilat to Dan.
Today they are walking with us about half the trail, till Beit Meir.
The first kilometer of the trail coincides with the 1949 Armistice Agreement Line. Then the trail
turns sharply to the south and after another kilometer joins the legendary Burma Road. (In the
travel log I am not including descriptions of the mentioned places, one can find them in online
encyclopaedias.)
We passed memorials from april 1948 battle in this area. A part of the Shiloah water pipe
commemorates the effort to bring water to Jerusalem under the siege.
The hike is mostly uphill, through pine forests, winding in valleys between muscat vine orchards.
We stopped for lunch at the observation point north of the village Beit Meir (Bayt Mahsir), close
to the ex-military post 16. Canned tuna with a cucumber, fistful of black olives, half a pita and an
apple - my lunch for today.
We were sitting on the rocks, captivated by the views of Judaean Hills above Highway No. 1.
Yuval, a young student in his twenties, manages a heated discourse with Ricki about the
necessity to separate religion from the state.
Adam, Maya, Maayan, Jacob , and the Minnesota guy Cager decided to hitchhike from Beit
Meir.
After crossing the road 3955 at the gate to Beit Meir, the trail descended into the Wadi Ksalon.
Some 200 meters after the road there was a control and refreshment stand of the Biblical Relay
Running Race in Jerusalem Hills. The refreshment team served us fresh water and cranberry
juice. On the trail we met runners approaching us from the opposite direction. I greeted them
with a thumb up.
Omer stopped at a crossroad with the black trail, by using this shortcut the distance to our final
destination, Kibbutz Tzuba, shortened by 5km . Most members of the group selected to take the
shortcut. Ricki, Horev and me followed the original INT white-orange-blue trail.
After a steep descent the trail joins a dirt road at bottom of the Wadi Ksalon, just opposite of the
Anne Frank Memorial. A bit of an odd place for a memorial for Anne Frank. Our presence
40
disturbed a flock of partridges or quails, I can't tell the difference, causing them a hell of a run. It
always puzzles me why they run and don't fly.
After a short rest, we continued on the trail another 12 km, all the way up the hill. The sewer pipe
follows the whole trail, causing unpleasant odour in the area. Our conversation on the trail was
minimal, influenced by the physical effort to reach the camp before sunset. Mostly we talked
about books and movies. I mentioned a documentary "What Our Fathers Did" which opened a
discussion about feelings of guilt and regret.
Final 1km ascent, near Ein Limor, was the steepest one. Being in the sight of the camp we
opened a coordinated singing of the Queen's song "We Are The Champions".
The hour was 18:00.
On Friday we were supposed to walk from Tzuba to Mt. Hertzel. The funeral ceremony of Peres
will take place at the same time, the roads will be closed, there will be no chance to walk through
the city freely. Rea decided to skip the walk tomorrow and to continue from Tzuba without
visiting Jerusalem, on next Wednesday.
Some of our group decided to spend overnight at the camp and leave at morning hours. I chose
to leave the camp immediately, in order to catch the bus to Jerusalem and from there to Haifa. It
was already dark when I climbed up onto the road 395, directly in front of the police checkpost. A
policeman has interrogated me why a guy like me is fooling around at evening hours in the
valley. After hearing my story he arranged for me fresh fruits and a cheese sandwich from the
nearby control and refreshment stand. The race was still going on. He also outfitted me with a
light-stick that I hung on my backpack and he escorted me to the nearby bus station. After trying
some thirty minutes to stop bypassing cars, a big van stopped in front of me and the familiar
policeman stepped out from it.
' This car will take you to the main bus station in Jerusalem.', he explained. ' The driver is a
friend of mine and he just passed around'. He wished me a Happy Shana Tova and we shook
hands.
The driver wore a uniform of a Border Police officer. He is a reservist and was called on duty for
the Peres funeral.
' At night we are going to close highway number 1and it will be closed tomorrow for the whole
day', he said in a heavy french accent.
In his civil life he is a medical doctor. He finished his studies in France and made aliyah. He has
his private clinic in Jerusalem. He is an observant Jew.
"With God's blessing there will be no terrorist acts during the funeral. There are alerts about
Hamas taking advantage of the situation', he continued.
He did the whole mitzvah when he dropped me in front of the central bus station at Jerusalem.
There I was detained by security forces for 40 minutes. The reason, a hunter's knife in my bag.
I have already exceeded the daily amount of words, so I'll skip this episode.
I arrived at home in Haifa after midnight.
41
Summary of the hike:
Start at Neve Shalom village
Finish at Kibbutz Tzuba
Walked distance 25.7 km
Points of interest:
Burma road, The Shiloah water pipe, Mahal Memorial, Ein Limor spring
42
The morning
dance at Neve
Shalom
The passway
under the road
38. From left
Horev, Ricki, me
43
WAL Journey Report Autumn 2016, part 2
The Rosh Hashanah holidays were just on time. I got a chance to recover from the ailments and
prepare myself for the next six weeks walk, this time in three deserts - Negev, Judean desert and
Arava. No more prospects to spend weekends at home in Haifa. The water resources will be
limited, without showers at campgrounds. Just sand and rocks.
Today afternoon Tami is taking me to Jerusalem where we will stay overnight and the next
morning at 6:30 she is going to drop me at the Tzuba campground on her way back to Haifa.
44
Summary:
Start at Kibbutz Tzuba
Finish at Mata
Walked distance 24 km
45
Ancient terrasse agriculture in Satap
46
2016-10-06 DAY 26: From Mata to Srigim (Li-On)
The morning dew was like rain, everything was wet.
Before departure we did some stretching exercises instead of the morning dance. Horev was the
instructor. Jacob left today, he flies home to New Jersey.
Rea showed us on the map today’s path. A part of it is on the imperial Rome road. After leaving
the Jerusalem Hills the landscape changed. Hills without trees, few cypresses and acacia
shrubs. The path bypassed Kibbutz Lamed-Hei from the north on the hills above Halla Valley. I
walked with Hilit and Tomer ahead of others from our group. The signs of the INT were scarce
and it was difficult to find the way. At one place the sign on the rock showed the wrong direction.
Probably someone turned the rock. I sent to the group message not to follow the sign up the hill
but to turn left into the valley. No one paid attention and they lost the original destination. After a
couple of hours they arrived at road 38 and hitchhiked to the campground.
I Had lunch with Hilit and Tomer in the shade of an acacia shrub. I decided to take a short nap,
Hilit and Tomer went ahead. After half an hour Tomer called me. They lost the trail and are
waiting for me at an olive orchard close to the intersection with road 38. After arriving at that
location twenty minutes later, they were not there. I was left alone and continued navigating with
the map and the application on my phone. On the path were no signs of the trail. On top of Tel
Azeka hill are some archeological excavations. At this location was the fight between David and
Goliath. Some four km later three dogs ran toward me barking at me in a frenzy. A woman with a
heavy body, in her 40th, was running after them calling their names and cursing. I was in a
dilemma whom to hit with my walking sticks, the dogs or the woman. The young doberman
attacked me from the rear. I felt his teeth on my leg. He succeeded to tear my pants, fortunately
not my flesh. The woman rushed them away from me and apologised. I was not in the mood to
deal with her, tired after the 20 km walk I just wanted to get to the camp.
47
Summary:
Start at Mata
Finish at Srigim
Walked distance 23 km
Points of interest:
Roman road named Caesar’s Trail
Horvat Hanut - Mamelukes caravanserai. By tradition at this place is buried Goliath
Archeological site Hurba Kaifa
Archaeological site Tel Azeka
48
Hilit and Tomer taking a lunch break
Archeological site at Tel Azekah and a memorial dedicated to the fight between David
and Goliath
49
2016-10-07 DAY 27: From Srigim to Villa at Beit Guvrin
Today’s hike was a short one, only 14.9 km, on a well marked path. The orange-blue-white ITN
sign was visible at each turn or crossroad. Tina, our companion bitch, was leading us to the next
destination. The first stop we made at the observation point Mesua with a view on the west
toward Shfela. On the east the view was closed on the horizon by Samaria mountains, with
Hebron on the top.
Omer kept pace with me. He is a gifted young fellow, selected by Technion Institute to study with
a special group of students, topics like biotechnology, artificial intelligence, physics.
The topics we discussed during our walk were slightly different: games of chance, red light
district in Amsterdam, the book ‘Sapiens’ by Israeli historian Yuval Harari.
Arriving at the campground near Beit Guvrin (Beit Jibrin) we were welcomed by Ali, a bedui from
the Negev, working as a security guard at the nearby construction site. He prepared for us a pot
of refreshing salvia tea. He plans to join our walk in Negev.
This is the first time I am spending kabbalat shabbat with the group. Rea brought to the camp his
spouse Olga with their kids, Ivri and Keshet. Three of his ‘hippie’ friends, joined the shabbat
dinner around the campfire as
well.
50
Summary of today:
Start at Srigim (Li-on)
Finish at Villa near Beit Guvrin
Walking distance 14.9 km
Points of interest:
Observation point Mesua
Underground tunnels from revolt period against Rome
Archeological site Hurvat Tzura
51
View from Mitzpe Masua into the biblical land of the Philistines
Under the tower at Mitzpe Masua. From the left: Maya, Adam, Yossi, Jenny,
Omer, Tina
52
2016-10-08 DAY 28: Nasser’s Villa at Beit Guvrin
My first shabbat at the campground with the ‘hevre’. The location is behind an abandoned villa
named “Nasser’s villa”. During the war of 1948 Gamal Abdel Nasser commanded his battalion
from this house.
The sleeping conditions were not ideal. My tent is waterproof but not soundproof. The singing of
the youth exceeded my expectations, till two AM.
During the day most of the time we were sitting under a big carob tree, playing backgammon,
reading, sleeping, doing body paint.
Rea and Gal are observing shabbat, so the field kitchen is ‘de facto’ closed.
Danny, my friend from Jerusalem, came to visit me, brought with him humus, falafel, labane and
pitas for all of us.
Most of the time Gal was playing on his guitar and singing with Rea Shabbat songs. Two of their
friends arrived bringing with them a homemade cake. A heated discussion began when one of
them argued that Ham sodomized Noah.
When Olga arrived the subject had changed to gematria, numerology and mystic connection
between a person's destiny and a given name selected for him/her by parents. At that point I left
to explore the surrounding area of Beit Guvrin-Maresha National Park.
53
Under the big carob tree. Omer and Tzadok playing backgammon.
55
Summary:
Start at Beit Guvrin
Finish at Tel Keshet
Walked distance 21.5 km
Places of interest:
Tel Lachish archeological park
56
Tel Lachish - view from the north-east
57
2016-10-10 DAY 30: From Tel Keshet to Wadi Shikma
Today's hike I splitted into two parts. The first part is from the start to the planned
campground. Rea decided to move the camp 5.5 km further in order to shorten the walk
tomorrow. So the second part is a continuation to the new site.
Yesterday, being the first on the trail, as I was advancing, I was informing the team where to
turn left or right from the path by sending the coordinates and direction instructions. This
proved to be effective and no one was lost. By this, I was unofficially appointed to be a scout.
This morning I departed again one hour ahead of others. Having been still sleepy I took a
wrong course, instead of heading to the south I walked to the west. After some 200 meters I
felt something fishy about the path. I checked my position and walked back to the camp and
this time I took the correct course to the south. Unfortunately, Yossi saw me departing to the
west but he did not see me coming back. So when the party departed an hour later, he told
them to follow me to the west. After walking more than 500 meters, Omer sent me a message
requesting my location. They were puzzled how I transferred myself from the west to the
south-east.
The marks of INT are scarce, sometimes on rocks that have been moved or turned or on the
sides of the path covered by vegetation. Without a map and a navigation instrument one can
easily miss the turns.
Most of the trail was on an unpaved field road passing through the vast arid plains. The road
was covered by a soft dust with footprints on it. I could recognize traces of birds, insects,
snakes and canines but couldn’t tell the species. One trace I recognized for sure, a man with
hiking shoes. I saw his footprint yesterday. He is hiking in the same direction as our group. He
couldn’t be more than three four hours ahead of me because the wind has not yet blurred the
edges.
After a 12 km walk I entered the Porah National Park next to Highway 6. At the parking lot is
Benny’’s kiosk named “Hashmura 215”, a real refuge. Burekas filled with cheese and spinach,
olives, boiled egg, arabic coffee (special Benny’s blend) with mandelbrot, lemonade and a
bottle of Carlsberg - this was my selection from the menu.
After 45 minutes Hilit and Tomer arrived, appreciating sending them the coordinates of the
kiosk, a little bit later Ricki arrived.
58
Part 1 of the hike: From Tel Keshet to the planned campground in Wadi Shikma
59
Part 2 of the hike: From the planned campground another 5.6 km near the road 325
Summary:
Start at Tel Keshet
Finish at Wadi Shikma
Walked distance 22.5 km
Points of interest:
Hurvat Nagila archeological excavations
Hidjaz Turkish railroad bridge
60
Footsteps in the dust
61
2016-10-11 DAY 31: From Nahal Shikma to Sansana
Pnini, Maya and Adam departed together with me half an hour earlier than the rest of the
company. Maya and Pnini prepared breakfast for us .During the morning hours the air was still
cool and the trail was an easy one, without steep climbs. Adam and Maya walked faster and
after 20 minutes we lost the sight of them. Pnini likes to keep conversation alive, so I am
updated about her family history. Her parents came to Israel from Romania. Both of them now
live in a residence complex for retired citizens in Hod Hasharon. After the Teva picnic area the
trail continued around the Gaat Hill up to the Palm Cave. The whole area was bare and black,
the fire had consumed all vegetation. The rest of the group met us near Kibbutz Lahav and
decided to take a break. Ali also joined the group. He will walk with us till the end of the month.
I have decided to continue alone. After crossing a dusty plain the trail went through the
Sansana Forest. The camp location was in the wadi beneath the religious moshav Sansana,
just 200 meters from the security fence parting us from the Palestinian territory. The place
where we will rest during Yom Kippur.
62
Summary: Walking distance 16.5 km
Start at Nahal Shikma, finish at Sansana
Points of interest: Joe Alon's museum and Beduin heritage museum at Lahav
Taking the lunch: From the left Pnini, Tzadok, Ali and Omer
63
Pnini on the trail
64
2016-10-12 DAY 32: Yom Kippur at Sansana
Yesterday we left the Negev desert and entered the southern Judaean Mountains of the West
Bank.
Our campground is located in a wadi
beneath a religious communal settlement
Sansana, just 200 meters from the
border security fence. The place is
actually a sort of hippie camp called in a
hebrew slang ‘zoola’. It has running
water and a large area covered with
canvases. On the ground are mats, straw
carpets and pillows. At one corner is a
small library with biblical encyclopaedia,
religious books and assorted novels in
hebrew and english. In the middle are
two tables made from wood pallets.
An unpaved road leads to the toilets and
a wooden hut for use by ‘shvilistim’
(people hiking the INT). The hut has a
large porch with a view to the east with
the Judean hills closing the horizon. It is
dedicated to the memory of Yishai Rosenblum who lost his life in an accident in China in 2001. His
sister, Maayan, is hiking with us, and joined our group at Tel Keshet.
The volunteers are preparing the last meal before the fast. Actually all of us contribute to the
preparation of the dinner. Rea is saying the kiddush and the glass with a ritual sweet wine is
passed around. Ali, the bedoui, participated with us but he skipped the wine.
During the night I was woken up by the crowing of an overactive rooster. The next one, disturbing
my sleep, was a muezzin calling the adhan from a mosque in a nearby bedouin village .
Only five from the group are fasting but most of the group are going to attend the prayer Kol Nidre
in the moshav synagogue. Omer said that he is going to the synagogue once a year just to remind
himself how he hates it. Sophie is going for curiosity, as a non-jewish, she has never been before
for a prayer in a synagogue.
Those who fast spent their time during the day sleeping. Others played backgammon, smoked
joints, talked and read. I took a stroll with Tomer up the hill to the hut. Sitting on the porch, he told
me his story while rolling himself another joint. He is 36, still searching for happiness. After a few
minutes, leaning on the railing, he pointed toward the forest.
“Look at those trees how they change the colors. What a feeling to be merged with nature,
absorbed by ultimate freedom, with consciousness stripped from the barriers.”, he expressed his
inner feelings.
65
Ali called us, and his friend Salman brought food to the camp. Both bedouins prepared a genuine
hafla. Kebabs, ribs, shishlik, tehina, salad and beverages. For dessert they served us namoura
cake.
The fast had ended.
66
View from the porch
2016-10-13 DAY 33: From Sansana to Hunters Fort in the Yatir Forest
This message is sent with a delay of one day. I couldn't connect my cellulare to the network
operator.
The rooster did not disappoint this morning as well. He started crowing at four, followed by the
muezzin at five. Both of them sounded weaker than yesterday morning.
Ricki and her brother Yonatan decided to walk with me ahead of the rest of the company. We
filled our lunch boxes with cooked rice mixed with assorted veggies and departed on the trail at
7:30.
The trail descended slowly into the valley parallel to the security fence along the border. After
4 km we crossed the road 60 and entered the Meitar forest. We took a short rest at the picnic
area Haarutz, filling the camel bags (shlukers in hebrew slang) with fresh water.
67
Ricki and Yonathan are from New Jersey. I introduced her in my earlier posts. Yonathan is a
student at american yeshiva in Beit Shemesh. He is twenty, with an overweight body.
Surprisingly he walks lightly and climbs up the hills as if he had half of his weight. The studies
at yeshiva cost a fortune, 20000$ a year. He plans to study in the future at Bar-Ilan university.
Ricki asked my opinion about Israel's policy in the West Bank. Probably the proximity of the
border affected her thoughts. This opened a discussion about regional and ethnic problems in
Israel.
The trail climbed steeply up Mt. Hiran and continued on top of the ridge of Judean mountains
with excellent views in direction of the Jewish settlement Tene and the Palestinian cities of
Dahariya, Yata, Dura and Hebron.
The group stopped to have lunch on one of the hills and I continued ahead alone. Only Tomer
went ahead of me. I met him just after the Hurvat Yattir, some 5 km from our destination.
Rea picked a picnic area in the Yatir Forest about 1 km from Hunters Fort, down the north
slope of the hill for the campground. Each of us selected a place for her/his tent.
The workers of KKL arrived suddenly at the campground to erect a large sukka. They
demanded from three of the girls to move the tents to another location. They did it but Yossi,
the ‘veteran’, argued with the workers. How dare they demand such a thing. It’s a sin to expel
a person from his/her place. They should erect the sukkah in Jerusalem, the God’s city, not in
the forest.
“The sukkah erected in a sin is a cursed sukkah”, he shouted at them.
We tried to calm him down, but this ignited in him more rage. Probably he will burn the sukkah
at night.
By the way, on one occasion he revealed his age. He is 69 and not 84, as I thought.
68
Summary:
Start at Sansana
Finish at Hunters Fort in Yatir Forest
Walked distance 16.5 km
Points of interest:
Hurvat Yattir, appears also on the Madaba map
Yatir Forest, largest planted forest in Israel
69
Ricki and
her brother
Yonatan
70
The cursed sukkah. My tent is on the right
71
I left the camp last, only Tomer remained behind still resting on his mat. I caught up with
Daniel after the first kilometer. This gave me an opportunity to exchange a couple of sentences
with him. He came from Germany, his home is in Leipzig. Actually, it’s not a home, he
explains. He shares the dwelling and everything in it with friends, including furniture and
clothing. Only his books are considered as his private asset. For him hiking is a way of
meditation. I agree with him, for me it’s the same. His favorite hikes are in the woods of
Dolomites in Italy. But he had been hiking for a long time in remote North-eastern parts of
India, between Bhutan and Myanmar, a place called Arunachal Pradesh,where native tribes
live untouched by civilization, he continued with enthusiasm to describe local people and their
habits.
At about ten we met our folks sitting under a planted pine in Yatir forest and having their meal.
Daniel joined them and I continued on my own. At kilometer eight I heard steps behind me. It
was Tomer. We walked together till we reached our destination - Amasa settlement on the
northern tip of Mt. Amasa. Gal has not yet arrived with his truck, so we have decided to
explore the settlement. Later we climbed up to the summit of Mt. Amasa, the highest mountain
of Judean hills, altitude 859 meters.
At the east Edom mountains rise above the Dead Sea, which is hidden from our view by the
ridge with Arad city on top of it. To the west a vast plain with Beer-Sheva barely visible in the
dusty air. The north is dominated by Mt. Hebron, densely inhabited with large Palestinian
cities. And to the south there is only a desert.
72
Summary:
Start at Hunters Fort
Finish at Mt. Amasa
Walked distance 12 km
73
On the trail to Mt. Amasa
74
View to the east from Mt. Amasa
75
section from the Torah, ‘parsha’. Yael diplomatically said only the name of the section and the
food was served.
5:30 in the morning Maayan woke me up to watch the sunrise with her and Gaia from the
summit of Mt. Amasa. It was still dark but the moon's light was sufficient to show us the trail. I
mentioned Maayan in the WAL 32. Her brother had drowned in a river in China in 2001. She
had herself a bad accident during a trip in Bolivia in 2005. She suffered an injury in the head
and was four weeks unconscious. This left her slightly limping and she cannot hike without the
walking sticks.
Gaia is a student in Hadassah Medical School in Jerusalem, sixth year. She specializes in
obstetrics and gynecology.
We arrived at the summit at 6:00. The plateau between Tel Arad and the Negev ridge was full
of clouds. The sun was still behind the Edom mountains. We set down waiting for the sunrise,
enjoying the calmness and tranquility of the early hour on the top of the desert. Ideal place and
time for meditation.
The sun has appeared.
“How sweet it is!”, called Maayan.
Maayan returned with me to the camp, leaving Gaia contemplating at the summit.
76
Mt Amasa region
77
The sunrise above Edom viewed from Mt. Amasa
78
Gaia on top of Mt. Amasa
79
2016-10-16 17 DAY 36 and 37: From Mt. Amasa to Arad
Day 36 Oct. 17th, 2016
It was still dark at 6:20 when I left the camp on Mt. Amasa without eating breakfast. I just took
with me two oranges and three bananas. The moon was full, giving enough light to see the
signs of the trail. Part of the path was on the Roman Imperial road. After descending from the
mountain I left the trail intending to buy a pita and labane in the nearby bedouin village Drijat.
A local man told me that there is no grocery in the village. I returned to the trail that followed to
the east. Along the trail were dispersed bedouin tents and tin shacks. A horde of camels
crossed the path looking at me suspiciously. In the distance I saw a kid riding on a donkey and
ahead of him a flock of goats. Seeing me he stopped and jumped off the donkey. I got the
impression that he wanted to have a conversation with me. He was about 12 years of age, with
a chubby body and dark skin.
‘Marhaba’, I greeted him.
‘Marhaba’, the kid replied.
I asked what his name was. Muhammad he replied. The goats started to run and the
conversation stopped. Muhammad tried to climb on the monkey and fell. The next attempt was
successful. He hit the donkey with a rubber pipe and the donkey fired on. Both disappeared in
the direction of the goats.
Around noon I arrived at the Tel Arad, a large archeological excavation site.
By some misunderstanding I continued to walk up to Arad instead of stopping at the
campground in Park Arad.
Tami, Netta, Eitan and Jonah arrived at Arad to spend a day of the holiday with me.
Happy Sukkot!
80
if by chance I know a sentence in Czech that his father tried to teach him when he was a small
boy: src trs srk kruk.
Of course I know it: Strč prst skrz krk.
You have to tell it quickly ten times.
81
The Roman
Imperial road
82
Tel Arad
The horde
of camels
83
2016-10-18 DAY 38: From Arad to Wadi Zvaim
This morning Yael gave me a lift at 6:45 leaving me on the trail in the city center of Arad. She
went to pick her brother from Mt. Amasa and from there they will drive for two days through the
desert, burying along the trail bottles of water and food for their planned hike. Such a hidden
place with water and food is called in hebrew ‘matmonet’.
First five kilometers the trail descends into a canyon parallel with the road 31 leading to the
Dead Sea. Suddenly it changes direction toward the south and climbs up onto the hill Rosh
Zohar. It then goes on top of the unpaved road connecting scattered bedouin camps. The road
was quite busy with cars driven by local bedouins. The camels were resting along the way.
I had a rest in a shade behind a large rock. Gaia and Maayan caught me shortly after that. We
continued the hike together, talking and watching the camels. After an hour we found that we
are not on the INT and instead we walked on a dirt road for jeeps. Fortunately the road joins
the INT near the campground. Half of the group made the same mistake and 6 members of the
group were lost in the desert. They sent us their coordinates and Adam volunteered to go for
them. Another four hikers got lost but managed to find the camp arriving at 21:00.
The group has grown during the holidays to 35 members.
84
The landscape east of Arad
85
Rest time
Hiding from
the sun
86
2016-10-19 DAY 39: From Wadi Zvaim to Fort Tamar
This morning I started at 7:30 together with Sophie, Daniel and Jean-Marc. Jean-Marc is from
Nimes in southern France. He had just retired after working 40 years as anesthetic. He is a tall
slim man, polite and serene, scarcely initiating a conversation. His son is also a medic. A year
ago the son tried to make aliyah but he had to take some exams in order to recognise in Israel
his diploma from a french university. Jean-Marc visits Israel every year for a few weeks as a
volunteer in Zahal.
The trail after crossing the road 258 climbed steeply up the Mt. Komot. We entered deep into
the Judean Desert and passed its southern part across. The landscape looked like the moon.
Lot of tourists with jeeps travelled on the trail. On the summit we took a break. Yossi with Gaia,
Kineret and Maayan joined us. Gaia and Maayan asked Yossi for advice on how to catch a
bridegroom.
“It’s not easy because you are overqualified, too selective and too smart.” were his words of
wisdom.
I left them and Kineret went with me. She is 20 years of age from Meitar. Currently on a
vacation for one week from the army. She is serving in a special intelligence unit. In spite of
her slightly overweight body she walks fast, even up the hill, like an armored vehicle. I barely
could catch up with her. Her hobby is modern ballet and dance. My imagination is limited
because I wouldn’t guess this fact about her. She also told me that her father is terminally ill,
pancreas cancer. He is in the final stage, she added with a calm voice.
We walked together till the camp, arriving at 14:00. Only a few of the hikers came ahead of us.
The camp is on the border between the Judean Desert and the Negev.
During the evening hours I had the opportunity to get to know some of the new members:
Hava from Benyamina, Raya from Nesher, Igor, Gabi, Avidan from Modiin, a young woman
from Frankfurt.
87
Summary:
Start at Wadi Zvaim
Finish at Fort Tamar
Walked distance 20 km
88
Kineret
Jean-Marc
ahead of
Sophie
89
Judean
Desert
Taking a
refuge in a
shade of the
conveyor
90
2016-10-20 DAY 40: From Fort Tamar to Scorpions Wadi
Most of the hikers woke up earlier than usual. We face a tough trail with two steep climbs -
Hazera Slope and Aeli Slope (Maale Hazera and Maale Aeli). Leon and four others asked if
they may join me. We took with us a few oranges, porridge prepared by Avidan and leftovers
from yesterday's dinner. Today’s lunch was not yet prepared.
We left the camp at 6:30, the sun was just peeking somewhere above the Jordan mountains.
Sophie with Jean-Marc and Avidan put on a quick pace. Avidan is a marathon runner actively
participating in competitions. After we arrive in Eilat, he will stay there to take part in Eilat's
annual marathon. Sophie and Jean-Marc are competent hikers, trained in Alps. They just
disappeared in one of the ravines. Only few can keep pace with them.
The first segment of the trail went up the hill and dropped steeply into the Wadi Zafit. Leon and
Netanel stopped at the crossroad with the black trail and prayed, raising lulavs above their
heads. Netanel is religious, he wears tzitzit and his head is always covered with a hat. His
home is in Ariel.
I was not attentive enough and continued on the black trail ascending in the wrong wadi. After
a short walk there was a small oasis with a water pool and a cloud of mosquitoes. I left the
place hastily. Walking about one more kilometer and climbing on a steel ladder fixed into the
rock, I wondered why there are only black route signs, no yellow-blue-white INT signes. The
batteries in my navigation device, Garmin Oregon, were empty and the spare batteries in my
bag, the same. No choice, I have to walk back following my footsteps. After passing the
waterhole in the oasis, I saw Igor and Gabi coming toward me.
Wrong direction, I informed them.
They just wanted to see the water pool and asked me how far it is. Not more than 100 meters.
The size of the pool is about the size of a tub, guarded by a cloud of blood-thirsty mosquitos.
My description persuaded them to walk back with me.
Hazera Slope is our last climb in the Judean desert. We are entering the south- east area of
Negev. From the top we can see the edge of the Small Makhtesh. The descent into the
makhtesh is challenging. Leon missed the turn of the trail to the east and took the old INT with
a lot of rockfall on it, making the descent difficult, even dangerous. In the past the INT passed
through the rockfall but recently the path was moved to the more safer slope, east of the old
one. Tomer, Pnini and a few others followed after Leon. Gaia had spotted me on the other
extension of the ridge and traversed to my location together with Maayan and Yossi. We hiked
together till the bottom of the Makhtesh. Later Leon was assailed by Tomer why he was
leading them on the old and dangerous trail.
The exit from the makhtesh, called Aeli Slope, is on its south-west edge. It is a sandy rock 520
meters high. To reach it we had to walk around 6 to 7 km on the path covered mostly by sand
and rock.
The Aeli Slope is a challenging one. Steep ascent with climbs using cramp irons anchored
into the rock.
The campground was located 2.5 km from the Aeli Slope, in the Scorpions wadi.
A white zeppelin is visible on the sky almost from any corner and angle during the hike. You
cannot find a spot to perform your number two without being watched by intelligence services.
They keep a record of everyone's moonlighting.
91
It was already after 20:00 when the last group of hikers, led by Tzadok, had arrived. They said
with concern that Raya is stacked at the bottom of the makhtesh, just at foot of the Aeli Slope.
A team of five, organized by Adam, departed to bring her to the camp. Meanwhile Raya
succeeded slowly to climb up, in spite of her exhaustion and the darkness. They returned after
two hours bringing her safely with them.
92
Leon and Netanel praying with lulavs
93
Taking a rest on the edge of the Small Makhtesh.
The cliffs at the north-west side of the Small Makhtesh. The tiny white spot in the sky is the zeppelin.
94
Me posing on the edge of the cliff. The Aeli Slope is in the rear at the right side far across the
Small Makhtesh.
95
WAL Journey Report Autumn 2016, part 3
96
Summary:
Start at Scorpions Slope
Finish at Gev Yamin
Walked distance 12 km
Points of interest:
Roman fort Zafir
Waterholes Gev Yamin
Viewpoint into the Great Makhtesh
97
The white
zeppelin
Resting on the
"balcony".
From left:
Tomer, Ron,
Herzel, Yael
98
In the distance, The Negev Nuclear Research Center near Dimona
During one of the walks in a remote canyon a lizard sitting on one of the rocks called in my direction.
“Hi there!”
He gazed straight at me with his right eye.
"Your colors are blended with the rock.”, I said to him. “It's hard to spot you.”
“Do you mind taking a picture of me with your phone cam?”, the lizard asked.
“Hold on and keep not moving.”
I took out from the pocket of my trousers a smart phone and seeing him clearly on the screen, I shot a
picture.
99
“May I see it?”
I extended my hand, holding the smart phone’s screen toward him. He seemed to be satisfied with the
image.
“The rock has changed with the time.”, he remarked, nodding his head and left without a trace.
Spending the whole day on the same location in the desert has a strange effect. One starts talking
with lizards and whispering to the stones.
The leisure time on sabbath is spent under the shade of a red canvas and the acacia tree, named
Hezi’s tree, for some unknown reason. Probably Hezi had planted it or lost his life next to it.
We played backgammon, drank coffee and managed small talk.
Ricki told me about the creative writing group she is managing. They write fantasy stories, in a style of
Harry Potter adventures.
Daniel approached me asking if he can spare a few minutes from my time. He wrote a novel and got
stuck after finishing the first chapter. The whole story is a monologue of a gravedigger’s son. The
relation between the father and the son is superficial, has no emotional basis. It’s like between me
and my father, Daniel explained. We were discussing the plot, which in my eyes was bizarre,
including the necrophilia relation between the son and a corpse of a young woman whose identity was
mysterious.
After having finished the session, Daniel read me one of his poems. His mother tongue is German but
he prefers to write in English. He writes lyrics for some british rock groups.
“Driven by the winds of grace So the seed was planted upon oath
her wings of faith struck thunder alike as a gift, a promise of finite growth
cutting invisible air into pieces
Right after that first rain did fall
Amidst a sky that was all draped to complete the wholeness of giving birth
in red and black- she shaped to answer on that humming call
a therefore unseen crack that fertile wish of mother earth
for the ever- first sunray to be laid
In that incantatory moment
In that one foot that she only got the world's clock hand strikes one
she held a seed the conspiracy of health and sickness
that housed the arcane recipe gree and grudge has now begun”
for a whole world yet to come
100
The Hezi’s tree in
Nahal Yamin.
The Lizard
101
Our campground raised around the Hezi’s tree in Nahal Yamin close to the road 227.
Under-tree activities: Gal playing the guitar, me and Yael playing backgammon, Yossi resting, Jacob
wondering about something, Haim and Leon peeling pomegranates
102
201610-23 DAY 43: From Gev Yamin to Colored Sand
Six members are leaving the group this morning - Daniel, Kineret, Avi, Raya and the couple from
Köln.
The hike is short, only 12 km and moderately easy, except for two steep ascents. One named the
Palmach Ascend and the second Snapir. Snapir is the beginning of the Karbolet ridge, the most
difficult hike on the whole INT. We will climb it after tomorrow.
Somebody asked me what part of INT I liked mostly. My answer was Carmel national park. But on
second thought, on each day I saw unique and spectacular parts of Israel, showing the diversity of the
landscape and the people, one meets along the trail. Every part I liked and every part is worthy of
hiking.
The Palmach Ascent was not only steep but also dangerous. It is a cliff of almost 200 meters height
and one climbs on it using steel ladders and ropes fixed to the rock. Adam was climbing ahead of me
avoiding looking down. He has a problem with vertigo. To tell the truth, I was also looking only up the
hill and holding strongly the ropes.
We arrived at the Colored Sand camp around 14:00.
103
Omer and
Adam climb
the Snapir.
Adam and
me on top of
the Snapir
104
2016-10-24 DAY 44: Sukkot holiday
During the last two nights we experienced a lot of nocturnal activity of desert inhabitants. After
midnight I felt something moving in my tent. First thought was, it may be a snake or a scorpion. The
unwanted tenant was a tiny mouse. Sophie found in her tent a yellow scorpion and in Avidan’s T-shirt
was hiding also a small scorpion.
At about 3:00 I woke up hearing sounds of dragging objects on the sandy ground. I peeked out from
the tent. A big jackal was dragging a red bag that was left by Maayan in front of her tent. My shouting
scared him and he ran away.
In the morning almost everyone was looking for missing objects. Shoes, pants, sandals, toilet bags
and garments were scattered everywhere around the camp.
A jackal chewed Yossi’s hiking shoes and another jackal stole Netanel’s left shoe.
From now on we keep everything in the tents and never leave tents unsealed.
Netta, Netanel and the kids stopped by on their way home from the vacation in Eilat. It felt great to
have them around me and to do “baram baram buc” with the kids.
105
The following four posts are written in a retrospective, sitting behind a writing desk in a comfortable
suit of Hotel Ramon in Mitzpe Ramon.
106
Rickie, Zadok and Jennie came to the camp last, it was already dark. Rickie told us that they found
the dog inside the ravine, exhausted and looking helpless. It was hard to climb down for us, we
couldn’t imagine how the dog could climb ladders and use the cramps. Rickie, seeing her suffering,
suggested ending her misery. Rickie had tears in her eyes, no one of them had the courage to do
coup de grace.
Summary:
Start at Colored Sands
Finish at Wadi Mador
Walking distance 22 km
107
The Karbolet - view from top of the Snapir
108
View toward the
south from the
middle section
109
Standing on the
highest point of
Karbolet
The Dog
110
2016-10-26 DAY 46: From Wadi Mador to The White Plains
A group of young bedouin scouts joined our camp last evening. Two of them, Muhammad and
Abdullah, gave us a short briefing about their mission. The name of the group is “Desert Stars”. The
group is sponsored by the Ministry of Education. 26 young bedouins after graduation were selected to
join the program with the goal of raising a young bedouin leadership. The hiking of INT is one of their
missions, but they hike each day more than 40 km.
Yossi said he would prefer if the bedouins were singing for us.
The morning brought us great excitement. The dog succeeded to walk during the night up to our
camp and was resting between two tents. Everybody said it’s a miracle. We gave him a portion of
Tina’s bonzo.
When I departed it was almost 8:30. Only a few hikers were behind me including Tina and the dog,
who decided to follow us in spite of her weak physical appearance. Tzadok suggested we should give
her a name. I suggested Shvil, a trail in hebrew, and it was accepted.
Everyone’s pace was quicker than mine and I found myself alone in the vast area of sand and stones
in the Wadi Tzin. No trees, no shrubs, no folded ground to find some shade from the burning sun.
Even the air was without movement to give a proper impression of the desert. After walking 5 km I
was eager to find a place with a little shade to take a short rest. A short distance off the path I saw, in
a small ditch, sitting in a shade of “leena” (wormwood) Adam, Maayan, Zadok and Jennie. No extra
space there even for a field mouse. I continued another 3 km till passing the campground at the
opposite, southern border, of Wadi Tzim. There was a rock high enough to drop some shade for me.
After resting for almost half an hour I started to climb up the steep slope of Mt. Khod Akev. Looking
down I saw more group members getting out from their “sun” shelters. At the peak of the mountain
were sitting Yossi, Maayan (from Efrat) and Gaia. Yossi prepared for us arabic coffee on his portable
camp burner.
111
Summary: Walked distance 21 km
Start at Wadi Mador, finish at White Plains
112
Summit of Hod Akev. From left: Pnini, Nadav, Tina, Gaia, Maayan, Yossi
113
On top of Hod Akev
114
As I mentioned, it was my duty together with Tomer to prepare breakfast and lunch for the hike. I
woke up at 4:30, folded the tent and the sleeping bag and started to prepare porridge for breakfast. At
5:15 I woke up Tomer and we cooked for the lunch hungarian lecso but without a kolbasz.
I departed at 7:00 after hearing the instructions from Rea. If there will be rain our camp will be in a
bedouin village Nafkha. This time I took with me in my bag a raincoat.
The hike was moderately easy. After passing the spring Ein Akev I stopped for a break, taking
advantage of the shade created by a cloud hiding the sun. Sitting on a rock in the shape of an
armchair I was eating the lecso. From the opposite direction a young woman was coming. Her outfit
was more suitable for a seashore promenade than for a hike in a desert. She asked me if there is a
lake near the path. Not a lake but a small pool in Ein Akev, I disappointed her. She is from the
Southern Netherlands and decided to walk up to Midreshet Sde Boker.
My next stop was in the Aroma restaurant at the foot of Avdat Nabati fort next to the road 40. All
members of the group stopped at this place, enjoying coffee, beverages and sandwiches. Avidan and
four others went up the hill to explore the fort. After an hour I left and continued on the trail parallel to
the road 40. In a short time Tomer, Sophie, Jean-Marc and Avidan were behind me. We were about
1.5 km from the destination when a sudden sand storm hit us. I found myself struggling against a
yellow cloud of sand, hitting my face and filling my eyes. There was nothing to do except to crouch on
the spot and wait till the worst will pass. Thunders and lighting gave the storm more vigor and soon
the sand was replaced by a heavy rain. I covered my bag with a waterproof cover and took on a red
raincoat. Sophie unfortunately forgot to take with her the proper clothing to protect her from the
chilling wind and rain.
We arrived hastily at the Nafkha village and took refuge in a “shick” prepared by bedouins. Shick is a
light construction closed from three sides and covered by tin plates. On the floor are mats and in one
corner is a place for fire. The main side is left open. Almost every bedouin camp or village has a shick
used for unexpected visitors or bypassers in distress.
We spent the night in the Nafkha village. The rain was drumming on the tin roof, dogs were barking in
a duet with braying donkeys, accompanied by Gal with his guitar and by two bedouin young men
singing and beating on darbukas interrupted occasionally by Sophie's french accent voice - “No drums
please.”
What a night.
115
Summary:
Start White Plains
Finish at Nafkha beduin village
Walked distance 17 km
116
Ein Akev cliffs
117
In the sand storm
118
2016-10-28 DAY 48: From Nafkha bedouins camp to Mitzpe Ramon
Raining ceased around five in the morning. The air was clear, the sky as well. Rea went to see if the
trail to Mitze Ramon was not flooded. No obstacles on the way, we can hike up to our next
destination, Mt. Gamal (Mt. Camel) in Mitzpe Ramon.
The trail is parallel to road 40 therefore the hikers considered it boring and decided to take a bus up to
the Bahad 1 junction and start to hike from there. I was the only potz who actually walked the whole
trail.
It was one of the less attractive hikes, just walking along road 40. Only at the Bahad 1 junction the
path turned sharp to the east into the direction of the Great Makhtesh. Bahad 1 is the IDF school for
officers. The view of the base brought me vivid memories from times I spent there from November
1973 till March 1974. The only thing worth mentioning from the hike are streams in the desert caused
by the last rain. Actually this was the first rain in the area this year, in hebrew it's called “yore”.
My destination is not the campground at Mt. Gamal, this time I'll stay overnight at the Hotel Ramon in
town.
Summary:
Start at Nafkha
bedouin village
Finish at Hotel
Ramon
Walked distance 21
km
119
The bedouin village Napkha
120
Cliffs and view into the Great Makhtesh south from Mitzpe Ramon
Visit in the bedouin tent. From the left: me, Nadav, Tzadok, Maya, Maayan, Yossi
121
2016-10-29 DAY 49: Shabbat in Mitzpe Ramon
Two nights and a whole day are dedicated to indulging myself in a two room suite at Ramon Suites
Hotel, located in the center of Mitzpe Ramon, near a replica of the Brooklyn house of Lubavitcher
Rabbi.
After taking a hot tub, scrubbing from my body a layer of a desert dust, I went to explore possibilities
of having a late lunch. It was Friday afternoon, shops close earlier before shabbat starts.
The city center looked deserted, just a few teenagers sat on a bench, their heads covered with knitted
yarmulkes, followed me with boring sights. There are two restaurants in the city center, both closed on
Fridays. They open only after the shabbat is out.
The only place opened was a pizzeria, named Selfie Pizza, with a big sign showing on it a smiling
pizza slice taking a selfie. I stepped in and ordered a medium size pizza. After lunch I went to the
grocery shop and bought three bottles of Goldstar beer and some waffles to have in the hotel room.
Pnini and her husband Haim stayed in the same hotel. I met them during breakfast. Haim leaves
today, he has to return to his work.
The next hours I spent in the swimming pool and watching one of my favorite movies “Forrest Gump”.
122
2016-10-30- DAY 50: From Mitzpe Ramon to Gev Gvanim
During the night the clock was moved an hour forward. The consequence was - the sunset started an
hour sooner. At 18:00 would be dark, making navigation difficult in the desert.
There is no taxi service in Mitzpe Ramon. The concierge phoned a local man who provides
transportation services. Stas, a Jew from Russia picked me up at 7:00 and for a sum of 30 ILS he
drove me to Nature Field School where our campground was located, some 2 km from the hotel.
Normally I would prefer to walk but I had two backpacks and the time was running out. On the way
Stas, 50 years of age, with a body of a wrestler, told me about his latest visit in Russia. His hebrew
was spiced up with russian words, like ‘blyat, sukin syn, pizda, khui s nim’, in russian accent. The life
in Russia is ‘na govno’ - like a shit, he finished his story.
I was the last departing from the campground. On the trail, climbing down the cliffs into the Great
Makhtesh, I caught up with Adam and a few others. He explained the instructions for the hike as it
was presented by Gal. The trail is badly marked in the terrain, the hike is long so we have to take a
shortcut on the jeep road signed in black and we have to walk in a group. The telecommunication in
the makhtesh is non-existent, so he cannot send us the location of the camp, but it will be on the trail
at Gev Gvanim camp Area. After the shortcut we have to follow on INT and do the best efforts to
arrive before sunset.
Apparently, Gal was too cautious. The trail was marked much better than in previous days, the hike
was moderately easy and also not too long. A local middle aged man, Nitzan, joined us. He wears a
sort of indian garment, resembling a fakir. Three other men joined the group together with their kids.
We are now 25 people.
The Dog, Shvil, followed us the whole trail. The group decided to change her name to Daisy.
123
Summary:
Start at Mitzpe Ramon
Finish at Gev Gvanim camp area
Walked distance 18.7 km
124
The southern edge of the makhtesh
Summary:
Start at Mifaar
Gvanim
Finish at Gev
Holit
Walked
distance 18.5
km
126
Yossi trying to levitate
Karbolet Kharirit
127
The beduin Desert Stars at Gev Holit campground
Waiting for the van at the campground. From left: Shlomit, Yael, Tomer, Avidan, Jean-Marc
128
2016-11-01 DAY 52: From Gev Holit to Park Sapir
Yesterday, after arriving at the camp earlier than planned, I decided to prepare dinner. Each day the
dinner menu is pasta or rice with vegetables or baba ganoush, a sort of Indian meal. My intention was
to make a change - a hungarian a vegetable stew called lecso. A week ago, when it was my turn
together with Tomer, we prepared lecso for take-away lunch, but it was without hot paprika in it. This
time I brought with me from Mitzpe Ramon hot paprika for this occasion. First time in my career I took
the post of a chef. Avidan prepared the rice. Talmor and Alber, the couple from France that joined us
at the Nafkha bedouin village, cut the onions, peppers and tomatoes. The lecso was a success.
There was an incident during breakfast. The pair on duty did not cook enough porridge and some of
the hikers were left without breakfast. Jennie from Beer Sheva was one of them. When complained,
Tomer told her that she is a spoiled teenager, she can cook a portion for herself. His words were like
oil to the fire. Jennie burst into tears and exploded with anger.
The young nationalists prayed in the direction of Jerusalem at 6:00 morning, the time when I left the
camp onto the trail.
The segment from Gev Holit to communal settlement Sapir is considered the highlight of the INT. The
path follows a deep Nekorot valley with scattered acacia trees. Five or six ibexes passed about 20
meters from me. They are not afraid of humans and sometimes they come so close one can even
touch them. After a few kilometers the valley changes the direction from east to the south and the trail
climbs up onto the Mt. Sdakim.
Our campground was located in the Park Sapir, an artificial oasis set up by KKL next to road 90.
129
Summary:
Start at camp area Gev Holit
Finish at Park Sapir
Distance: 23.5 km
130
View from Mt. Yahav into wadi Nakarot
132
Last two kilometers I walked with Tomer and Nitzan. Tomer found on the way wood for night fire and
we helped him to carry it to the camp.
Ruins of Nabatean fortress Moa situated on the hill are visible from far. It is one of the sixty caravan
serai stations on the Nabatean Incense Trade Route that comprises a network of roads connecting
India and Arabia with Mediterranean from 7th century BCE. Moa is the entry gate to the Negev from
the east.
Fatigue is showing its signs. Most of us tend to take more and longer breaks and back pain is not
exclusively my malady.
133
Park Sapir
Moa at sunset
134
2016-11-03 DAY 54: From Moa to Wadi Barak
During the late evening, sitting in the circle around the fire, Yossi had a dispute with one of the
newcomers about Israeli policy regarding Palestinians. I was at that time in my tent already buried
deep in my sleeping bag.
The sun was still hiding behind the Edom mountains when Sophie had departed from the camp.
A long part of the track I walked with the French couple Talmor and Alber. Both are 69 years of age.
Alber won the competition between us who is older. He was born on March 1st and I on March 31.
The oldest participant in WAL is Yossi. He is also 69 but he was born in February. Yossi always
carries with him a portable camping burner,to prepare arabic coffee during breaks. Sipping coffee
during one of the breaks, I asked him what the hell he was arguing with the guy about politics. We are
on the way eight weeks and till today we have tried to avoid discussions concerning controversial
subjects around the campfire.
“I have to argue with everyone”, he gave me the answer. “If someone tells me this is ‘black’ I have to
persuade him that it is ‘white’ even if I don’t believe it. You have to understand, I can be likudnik and
at the same time extreme leftist. This is my nature”.
We finished the coffee and moved on on the ancient Nabatean Essence Route up to the night camp
located at the estuary of Wadi Barak.
135
Nabatean fort Moa
at 7:00 morning
Nabatean Essence
Route
136
2016-11-04 DAY 55: From Wadi Barak to Wadi Tzikhor
The hike of today is a long one and challenging, therefore I departed earlier than usual, at 6:20. Only
Sofie with Jean-Marc left a few minutes before me. I was followed by Avidan, the marathon runner,
who soon left me far behind. His pace is unbeatable, around 7 km/hour, even more.
The track is situated about 2.5 km to the west from the Jordan border. The direction of the trail heads
toward south-west. Rickie, probably under the influence of dreams walked straight to the east and
finished her hike at the Jordanian border.
After 5 km I caught up with Oren, Shaul, Moran and their four kids aged from 8 to 13, while they
stopped to watch wild camels standing about 100 meters from us. They joined our group two days
ago. The three men are police detectives. Shaul learned photography at Bezalel art academy and
was recruited to police as a photographer for crime scenes. Oren is a criminologist. His job is to solve
mostly murder cases. It was an opportunity to hear from a detective his opinion about the Tair Rada’s
murder and the doubtful conviction of Zadorov.
The exit from Wadi Barak requires almost mountaineering skills, climbing vertical rocks, using
ladders and ropes. The entrance to the Wadi Vardit was even more challenging, climbing down
vertical cliffs. Some of the hikers, mostly those who suffer from acrophobia, took an alternative trail.
137
Summary:
Start at Wadi Barak estuary
Finish at Wadi Tzikhor
Walked distance 26 km
138
Wild camels behind me
in wadi Barak
140
Yossi in Tzikhor canyon
141
In canyon Tzihor
142
2020-11-05/12 DAYS 56 to 62: From Wadi Tzihor to Eilat
143
2016-11-05 DAY 56: Wadi Tzihor
145
Lift from Neot Smadar. From left: Avidan, Jean-Marc, Tina and me
146
2016-11-06 DAY 57: Part 2 - From Holot Kisui to Shaharut
147
Holot Kisui
148
2016-11-07 DAY 58: From Shaharut to Sasgon Valley
149
View into the Jordan Valley north from Samar
151
The summit of Mt. Timna
152
2016-11-09 DAY 60: From Wadi Raham to Wadi Amir
Walked distance 15 km
153
First glimpse of the Red Sea. Posing with Ricki on Mt. Amram with view to the Eilat Bay.
155
Shkhoret Canyon
Walked distance 16 km
158
Israeli-Egyptian border zone
159
THE END
160
WAL Itinerary Actual Trail
Daily Walk Weekly
Walking
Hebrew Camp Distance Cumulative Distance
Day Date Start Location Night Camp Name km km km Remark
1 2016-09-11 Ussishkin (Kibbutz Dan) Ein Roim עין רועים 16.9 16.9
2 2016-09-12 Ein Roim Yesha Fortress מצודת כח נבי יושע 18.6 35.5
3 2016-09-13 Yesha Fortress Wadi Dishon נחל דישון 16.5 52.0
4 2016-09-14 Wadi Dishon Hummama Ruins חורבת חממה 18.6 70.6
5 2016-09-15 Hummama Ruins Mt. Miron (Ein Koves) עין כובס 18.6 89.2
6 2016-09-16 Mt. Miron (Ein Koves) Villa Melchett וילה מלצ׳ט 19.9 109.1
7 2016-09-17 109.1 109.1 Shabat 1
8 2016-09-18 Villa Melchett Poriah - Swiss Forest יער שוויצריה- פוריה 16.0 125.1
9 2016-09-19 Poriah - Swiss Forest Yavniel יבניאל 18.7 143.8
10 2016-09-20 Yavniel Kibbutz Gazit קיבוץ גזית 18.7 162.5
11 2016-09-21 Kibbutz Gazit Mt. Debora הר דבורה 23.0 185.5
12 2016-09-22 Mt. Debora Alon Hagalil אלון הגליל 21.7 207.2
13 2016-09-23 Alon Hagalil Shaar Haamakim שער העמקים 18.6 225.8
14 2016-09-24 225.8 116.7 Shabat 2
15 2016-09-25 Shaar Haamakim Rakit Ruins חרבת רקית 19.1 244.9
16 2016-09-26 Wadi Oren Atlit עתלית 13.1 258.0
17 2016-09-27 Atlit Gamzo גמזו 1.6 259.6 By bus and short walk from the bus
18 2016-09-28 Gamzo Neve Shalom נווה שלום 18.6 278.2
19 2016-09-29 Neve Shalom Tzuba צובה 25.7 303.9
Canceled because of the Peres
20 2016-09-30 Tzuba Mt. Herzel הר הרצל 0.0 303.9 funeral
21 2016-10-01 303.9 78.1 Shabat 3
22 2016-10-02 0.0 303.9 Rosh Hashana
23 2016-10-03 0.0 303.9 Rosh Hashanah
24 2016-10-04 0.0 303.9
TOTAL km 873.2
Average Walk
km/week 97.0
Number of
Holidays 7.0
Number of
Shabats 8
Number of
Walking Days 47.0
Average Walk
km/day 18.6