0

A
TRAINING REPORT
ON
METER & SHRINKAGE VARIATION
FROM GREY TO FINISH
AT
ANUBHA INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED

(Plot No - 369,371,377 - NH8, Village & Taluka Palsana,Surat – 394315, Gujarat – India)

Submitted
In The Partial Fulfillment Of
Bachelor Of Technology
Department Of Textile Technology

Govt. College Of Engineering & Textile Technology

Berhampore, Murshidabad

Submitted to: Submitted by:

Mr. Kuldeep Bisen SK Azaruddin
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

It is privilege for me to have been associated with Mukesh Ranesha Sir , my guide during
this project work. I have greatly benefited by his valuable suggestions and ideas. It is with
great pleasure that I express my deep sense of gratitude to him for his able guidance, constant
encouragement and patience throughout the work.

I am also thankful to Mr. Kuldeep Bisen(Head Of The Finishing Department) and Mr.
Jayesh Patel(Assistant Manager Of The Finishing Department) for their constant
encouragement & cooperation.

I am also thankful to members of Anubha Industries PVT LTD for helping me during this
dissertation work.

SK Azaruddin
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Chapter Titles Page

no. no.
Acknowledgement 1
1 Company Profile 3
1.1 About Anubha Industries PVT LTD 3
1.2 Products Of The Company 3
1.3 Company Process Flow Chart 4
1.4 Machineries Of Dyeing And Finishing 5

2 Introduction 6
2.1 About The Project 7
2.2 Desizing Process 7
2.3 Singeing Process 10
2.4 Continious Bleaching Range(CBR) 13
2.5 Variation After CBR 14
2.6 Continious Mercerizing Range(CMR) 15
2.7 Variation After CMR 17
2.8 Cold Pad Batch Dyeing(CPB) 19
2.9 Stenter Finishing 21
3 Variation After Stenter Process 24
3.1 Peach Finish Process 24
3.2 Variation After Peach Finish 27
3.3 Sanforizing Finishing Process 27
3.4 Observation After Sanforizing Process 31
3.5 How To Control shrinkage 31
3.6 Conclusion 32
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COMPANY PROFILE
1.1 About Anubha Industries Private Limited

Anubha Industries Ltd is a specialist for sustainable denim and piece dyed fabric solutions. It
is part of the Pratibha Group of companies, having a rich history of over 30 years in textiles
and manufacturing. Headquartered in Surat, with over 600 employees, the company manages
the complete industrial chain, from fabric to finished product. Anubha Industries has invested
in the state-of-the-art facilities equipped with rope dyeing, weaving, finishing, coating,
printing and material testing facilities. This enables to respond quickly to customer needs and
making less dependent on external suppliers.
1.2 Products Of The Company
The company develops, manufactures and supplies high-end sustainable fabrics including,
denim, polyester, linen, viscose, nylon yarn, dispersed dyed and other technical Fabrics.
These fabrics  are used in various segments like denim, fashion, work-wear and sports.

Our fabrics are reputed for its sustainability, fashion, function, performance and durability
that are engineered for a wide variety of markets and its applications. Constructed using high
quality fibers with formulated recipes; Anubha fabrics are best in class. They’re available in a
wide range of weights – from ultra lightweight to heavy weight and come in many different
constructions and textures.
Rope Dyeing: Rope dyeing consists of twisting the yarns into a rope that is then quickly
dipped into indigo baths. It is considered the best method for dyeing denim as the short
dyeing time does not allow the indigo to fully penetrate the fibers, thus creating ring-dyed
yarn that fades better and faster than fully dyed yarn.

Weaving: For weaving, Anubha Industries have facilities that combined produces a wide
variety of high quality, and high output looms. We utilize 100 looms from Toyota (Japan),
and dust filtering systems from Luwa (Switzerland).

Dyeing & Finishing: For denim, Industry have rope dyeing and an advanced finishing plant.
For piece dye, we use woven special dyeing to produce Rusty Fade, Pastel Fade and Cool
Fade.They offer different types of coatings, such as wax touch, wash-down leather, pu & pa
coating, high performance rain coating, water resistance, as well as wrinkle resistant in both
solid and print
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Quality Control:Laboratory of the industry is equipped with the latest technology and
equipment for quality control testing. Company use machinery for fiber and yarn testing. For
dyeing, printing and finished fabric tests, they use Paramount, James Heal for tearing and
tensile test.

1.3 Company Process Flow Chart

Woven Dyeing:
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Processing Of Rope Dyed Fabric:

Ball Warping

Rope Dyeing

Re Beaming

Sizing

Weaving

Finishing

1.4 Machineries of Dyeing & Finishing

M/C Type Manufacturer Origin Quantity

Desizing Kusters calico m/c pvt India 1

ltd
Singeing Kusters calico m/c pvt India 1
ltd
Bleaching(CBR) Kusters calico m/c pvt India 1
ltd
Mercerizing(CMR) Kusters calico m/c pvt India 1
ltd
CPB Dyeing Kusters calico m/c pvt India 1
ltd
Stenter InspirOn Engineering India 1
Pvt Ltd
Peaching Xetma vollenweider Germany 1

Morrision Morrisiontextile USA 1

machinery co.
Ronson Ronson industrial India 1
engineers pvt ltd
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INTRODUCTION

Concept Of Finishing

What is Finishing:Finishing is the use of a series of processes to develop the properties of

fabrics to meet customer requirements. The desired fabric properties are only achieved if each
of the steps in a sequence of processes is carried out in a precise order and in an appropriate
manner. Unfinished fabrics are referred to as being ‘greige’ (grey) fabrics, or when
appropriate, as ‘loomstate’ fabrics. Finishing converts these into ‘finished’ fabrics.

In finishing fabric, a sequence of operations needs to be followed:

1. To remove unwanted contaminants, mainly lubricants and anti-static agents introduced

during yarn and fabric production
2. To prepare fabrics for dyeing, if it is to be carried out in piece or garment form
3. To add functional finishes as required, to produce the required handle, shrink-resistance,
flame-retardancy, water-proofing, smooth drying, anti-microbial and antistatic properties
4.To modify the dimensional properties of the fabric (relaxation shrinkage and hygral
expansion) and bring these within desired limits
5.To develop the required fabric handle and appearance.

Limitations on finishing:

1. The general character of a fabric is determined by the diameter of the fibres, yarn structure,
yarn linear density (count), yarn twist, knit or weave structure and cover factor. These
variables are not under the direct control of the finisher. Rather, the finisher develops the
latent properties of fabric to meet customer requirements.

2. Some of the worst problems in finishing arise from simple design errors (e.g. incorrect
numbers of picks and ends) which make it impossible for the finisher to produce fabric with
the desired width, mass per unit area.

Wet and Dry finishing:

In finishing, a sequence of operations needs to be followed.
Generally, wet finishing processes are carried out before dry processes.

The theory of setting:

1. Many finishing processes involve setting of fabric and an understanding of the mechanisms
involved is indispensable to effective processing.
2. The aim of setting is to permanently stabilise the dimensions of fabric in length, width and
thickness and to give fabric desired surface characteristics (smoothness,
fuzziness etc.)
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TITLE OF THE PROJECT

Meter Variation And Shrinkage Variation Of The Fabric From Grey
To Final Finish

2.1 About The Project

Shrinkage:Shrinkage is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original size,
usually through the process of laundry. Cotton fabric suffers from two main disadvantages of
shrinking and creasing during subsequent washing.

There are two types of shrinkage occurs during  washing

1) Length wise 
2) Width wise 
Cause:Due to high tension during preparation of fabric which result in excess stretch in yarn.
This type of shrinkage is known as London shrinkage. Due to swelling of fibers for fiber
structure.

How To Calculate Shrinkage % :

Fabric Shrinkage %= (Length before washing - length after washing)*100/Length before
washing

Objective Of Prediction Of Shrinkage:

 To determinate bulk fabric shrinkage for paper pattern adjustment to ensure washed
garment measurement meet with the size space.
 To determinate whether the fabric shrinkage fulfills buyer requirement at the
earlier stage before bulk production.

Our Step By Step Observation From Grey To Final Finishing Process:

We observed meter & shrinkage variation of some processing fabric in each machine from
desizing to final finishing.

2.2 Desizing Process:Desizing is a process of removing the size material from the fabric,
which is applied in warp yarn before weaving. The size material is removed to facilitate the
penetration of dyes and chemicals in the subsequent wet processing operations.
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Methods of desizing:Desizing of cotton fabric can be accomplished by physical, chemical or

combination of physical and chemical mechanism, namely rot steeping, acid steeping,
treatment with enzyme and oxidizing agents.

Rot steeping: In this method grey cotton fabric is steeped in water in suitable box at a
temperature of about 30-40° c for about 24 hrs. During the storage micro-organisms develop
and the starch becomes a soluble compound.

Acid desizing: In this method cotton fabric is treated with dilute sulfuric acid with a
concentration of 5-10 g/l at a temperature of about 40°c for 3-4 hrs. Dilute acid converts
starch into water soluble compound and removes it.

Enzymatic desizing: In enzymatic desizing the grey fabric is first padded with the desizing
mixture containing enzyme - 0.5-2% and wetting agent at 60-70°. During this period the
Enzymes reacts with starches and make them soluble.

Details of desizing machine:

Inlet feeding unit:To feed the fabric into the machine It has guide bars ensuring smooth
passage of fabric and one compensate (fabric tensioner) to set necessary fabric tension.
Selvedge guide: To align fabric centrally and it helps in passing the fabric without folds into
the machine.

Desizing chamber: The main function of this chamber is to wet the fabric by using series of
rollers, the fabric is immersed into the desizing chemicals and thus desizes the fabric

Chemical dosing system: It doses the appropriate quantity of required chemicals and water
into the chemical mixing tank. The chemicals get mixed in the mixing tank and then dosed
into the desizing chamber.

Squeezing mangle: To squeeze out extra chemical solution from fabric, it has two rubber
coated rollers which are pressed together to squeeze out chemical solution and passes it back
into the desizing chamber.

Batching unit:Important function of batching unit is to wind the fabric on batch. The fabric
is guided over the driven roller and is then wound onto batch.
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Rotating station: To have uniform distribution of desizing chemicals throughout the batch
the fabric after batching, is covered completely with polythene sheet and is then kept in
rotating station for rotation for uniform application of desizing chemicals on the bath.

Process Parameters

Temperature of Desize chamber:It is measured in degree Celsius. Set the temperature as

instructed to get correct desizing.
Chemical dosing:The dosing of chemicals should be optimum. Less quantity of chemicals
leads to poor size removal while excess quantity leads to wastage of chemicals.
pH of the desizing chamber:Determine the pH value of desize mix in the chamber using pH
meter or pH paper. Since all the enzymes work at a particular pH, this value should be in a
specified range.
Pick-up –It is the amount of chemicals taken by fabric and is expressed in percentage (%)
Low pick-up leads to less chemicals on fabric thus causing improper size removal and High
pick-up leads to more consumption of chemicals than required i.e. wastage of chemicals.

Fig.1 Deizing Machine

Our Observation after enzymatic desizing process: No significant change in length is

observed after this process
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2.3 Singeing Process: Verb ‘singe’ literally means ‘to burn superficially’. Technically,
singeing refers to the burning-off of Loose fibres not firmly bound into the yarn and/or fabric
structure. Singeing is an important part of pretreatment This is the burning off of protruding
fiber ends from the surface of the fabric. If not done properly, unclear print patterns, mottled
fabric surfaces, and pilling results

Importance of singeing:
1. Singeing improves the end use and wearing properties of textiles.
2. The burning-off of protruding fibres results in a clean surface of fabric.
3. Dyed fabric appearance becomes brighter as singeing reduces the fogginess
caused by differing reflection of light by the protruding fibre .
4. Singeing is an effective means of reducing pilling in blended fabrics.
5. Unsinged fabrics soil more easily than singed fabrics.
6. A closely singed fabric is essential for effective printing.

Types of singeing process:

1. Hot plate singeing
2. Roller singeing
3. Gas singeing
Hot Plate Singeing:
Dried Fabric is made to pass over the heated bright red plates at speeds up to 200 yards per
minute, according to quality which burns out the protruding fibres and provided clear fabric
surface.

Roller Singeing:
In this type of singeing machine the cloth passes over a hollow cylinder which revolves
slowly in the opposite direction of the goods. The hollow cast iron or copper cylinder is fired
internally. The fabric gets singed and runs through water bath for quenching and plaited.

Gas singeing:
The most common singer is a row of gas burners arranged so that the
material passes rapidly through the open flame and it burns out the protruding fibres from the
fabric surface. While singeing is a simple process, care must be taken to not damage the
fabric.
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Details of fabric singeing machine:

1. Inlet feeding unit:To feed the fabric into the machine It has guide bars ensuring smooth
passage of fabric and one compensate (fabric tensioner) to set the necessary fabric tension.

2. Selvedge guide:To align fabric centrally and It helps in passing the fabric without folds
into the machine.

3. Brushing unit: Cleans the running fabric and raises the loose fibres, It has two rotating
brushing rollers, which rotate in a direction opposite to that of fabric passage. The fabric gets
cleaned and the loose fibres also get straightened up to face the flame for singeing

4. Dust collector:Dust Collector is a cyclone separator in which the dirt (fluff) coming from
Brushing unit gets collected into Dust bag
.
5. Burner unit :It burns protruding fibres coming out from both sides of fabric. This unit has
two burners with direct gas supply. LPG (liquefied Petroleum Gas) is used in burners to burn
the protruding fibres. Both the burners can be turned into three different positions to get
singeing positions. Position A – Singeing directly on to the freely guided fabric.
Position B – Singeing on roller
Position C – Tangential singeing
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6. Spark extinguisher roll :To extinguish glowing or burning fabric selvedges The selvedge
guiding ribbons are pressed against burning selvedges, to extinguish the spark.

7. Pulling device:For transport of fabric through machine (to pull the fabric) It reduces the
fabric tension throughout the machine. It has a compensator / dancer which adjusts the fabric
tension and trips if the tension in the fabric goes beyond the tolerance limit.

8. Beating unit:Cleans the running fabric by removing burnt-off fibres It consists of two
rotating beating rollers which rotate in opposite direction to the direction of passage of fabric.
The small burnt-off fibres fall into the suction tubes and go into Air Washer (Wet Filter).

9. Air washer / water filter: Air washer consists of 2 spray pipes for spraying cold water on
the burnt-off fibres coming from the Beating unit. The burnt-off fibres thus become wet and
settle down due to gravity (which can be drained) while the cleaned exhaust is led to waste
collection point.

Effect Of Singeing Process

Our Observation after Gas singeing process: There is no significant change in length of
the fabric after this process
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2.4 Continuous Bleaching Range(CBR)

Bleaching and its importance:

The aim of bleaching is to remove any unwanted colour from the fibres and to bring
whiteness to fabric thereby it improves the absorbency of the material for dyeing and
printing. The most common bleaching agents are hydrogen peroxide & Hypochlorite.

Material flow in CBR process

Details of Continues Bleaching Range:

The three Processes involved in Continuous Bleaching Range machine

1 .Desize Wash (To remove starch content from fabric)

2. Scouring (To remove the impurities present in fabric & to improve absorbency)
3. Bleaching: (To bring whiteness to the fabric.)

Inlet J-Scray:-It is to collect the fabric during batch changing to avoid machine stoppage by
using tensioner roller, pressure roller and compensator

Steam and hot water injection:To wash off starch and desizing chemicals from fabric
efficiently with injection of steam and hot water.

Pre-washing compartment:
To wash off the starch and other impurities from desized fabric by using hot water
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Bleaching Chemical trough:It is to apply the bleaching chemicals uniformly on the fabric.

Steamer: -To give reaction time to the fabric with bleaching chemicals at high temperature
(102 0C). The Steamer House is mounted with Solid Stainless steel frame, insulated roof,
condensation drainage with collecting pipe, hinged windows, and Halogen lamps.

Neutralizing Compartment:This compartment neutralizes the fabric pH by dosing of mild

Acetic acid and washes the excess acid. After this compartment there is a rinsing
compartment to wash off the impurities from the fabric.
Outlet unit:To collect the fabric during batch change to avoid machine stoppage and provide
perfect out batch of fabric without any crease

Chemical used in CBR:

Hydrogen peroxide
Caustic
Sequestering agent finishing
Wetting agent pretreatment
Stabilizer

2.5 Variation after CBR process

Observation of meter variation in CBR:

Sample no. Length before CBR (m) Length after CBR (m) Variation(m)

1 2400 2430 30
2 2440 2490 50
3 1505 1560 55
4 2022 2085 63
5 2442 2480 38
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Observation of shrinkage variation after CBR:

Sample no. EPI PPI GSM Width(cm) Shrinkage(%)

Before After Before After Warp Weft

wash wash wash wash
1 156 60 310 478 158 119 -14 -26
2 148 90 285 430 142 109 -13 -25
3 156 78 184 245 173 151 -14 -13
4 160 75 183 242 177 155 -14 -13
5 146 91 287 413 144 110 -14 -24

2.6 Continuous Mercerizing Range (CMR)

Mercerization and its importance:
Impregnation of Cotton, in the form of yarn or fabric, with sodium hydroxide solution
(caustic soda) at a concentration in the range 200-220 gpl (grams per litre) at 20°C or 60°C
under certain tension is called mercerisation.

The following properties are improved by mercerization process:

In case of dyeing or printing: dye consumption, depth of color, brilliance
In case of finishing: dimentional stability, breaking strength, crease resist finishing.
Final appearance in general: sheen, handle, appearance

Types of fabric mercerization:

1. Chain mercerization machine
2. Chainless mercerization machine

Chain Mercerizing
Chain mercerizing is done on a range equipped with stenter chains for tension control. The
range consists of a pad mangle followed by a set of timing cylinders and then a clip stenter
frame.Fresh water is sprayed onto the fabric to remove the caustic soda as it is held tensioned
in the stenter frame. The stenter frame is followed by a series of openwidth wash boxes
which further reduces the caustic level. Acetic acid is in one of the last boxes to complete the
neutralization of caustic.
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Chainless mercerization machine: Chainless mercerizing is practiced on a range where the

cloth is maintained incontact with rotating drums virtually throughout the entire process.

Steps involved in mercerization machine:

 Apply 200 to 220 gpl of caustic at the pad mangle at 100% wet pickup.

 Pass fabric over timing cylinders.

 The number of cylinders must correspond to the range speed and provide at least one
minute dwell time.

 Clip fabric onto stenter chains and stretch weft wise.

 Run fabric under spray washers to remove caustic.

 Release tension and continue washing in open-width wash boxes, to further reduce the
caustic.
 Neutralize with acetic acid and dry the fabric.

Chemical used in CMR: Caustic, Core neutralizer for pH, Wetting agent.
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2.7 Variation after CMR process

Observation of meter variation in CMR:

Sample no. Length before CMR (m) Length after CMR (m) Variation(m)

1 1920 1950 30
2 380 390 10
3 2089 2140 51
4 2165 2200 35
5 2430 2470 40

Observation of shrinkage after CMR process:

Sample no. EPI PPI GSM Width(cm) Shrinkage(%)

Before After Before After Warp Weft

wash wash wash wash
1 82 72 323 420 158.5 133 -13 -17

2 144 90 330 414 150 132 -11 -13

3 156 76 193 229 170 156 -10 -10

4 80 78 355 480 154 129 -13 -19

5 140 96 323 454 154.5 124 -13 -22

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Washing: In washing processes, as sub-processes of the main pre-treatment, dyeing and

finishing processes, the fabric is moved through a machine that consists of several chambers.
Each chamber is individually supplied with water, agents and auxiliaries. After a defined
number of cycles, the fabric is quenched and the surplus solution flows back to the chamber.
Generally the washing water is reused and circulates in counter-current flow. They are almost
always connected to key treatments and aimed at removing from the fabric insoluble matters,
matters already in solution or an emulsion of other impurities. During the fabric preparation
process, for example, washing is carried out after desizing, boiling and other bleaching and
mercerising processes; in dyeing, the washing stage is necessary to complete the dyeing
process itself or to eliminate the dyestuff which has not been fixed. 

Washing with water:

Important factors in washing are:
1.water characteristics
2.choice of soaps and detergents
3.hydro mechanical action
4.temperature and pH
5.rinsing stage

Washing off sequence for reactive dyes:

The hydrolyesd and unfixed dyes which are present in the dye bath as well as on the fiber
after the completion of dyeing cycle, these hydrolyesd dyes have no affinity for the fiber but
still they act as direct dyes and in the presence of electrolyte penetrates inside the fiber , with
the rise in temperature of washing and soaping. If these are not removed before soaping and
washing these  can severely affect the color fastness properties. Such trouble can be reduced
or eliminated by following an optimized washing off sequence after dyeing.
The dyed goods must be free from any inorganic salt before going for a soaping treatment .
Generally a non ionic soaping agent is used  for soaping purpose to get good washing
fastness. An organic acis such as acetic acid is must be used to neutralize the dyebath. The
soaping treatment can be done upto a boiling temperature to remove the unfixed and
hydrolysed dye effectively. A higher soaping temperature can be selected because  unfixed
dye has  practically no affinity for the fiber  and the loosely held dye rapidly diffuse out.  The
soaping treatment is recommended in a neutral bath because  under alkaline soaping
conditions at higher temperature the dye fiber bond may break and result into loss of
color  value due to rupture of dye fiber bond. If the soaping tretment is carried out  efficiently
and carefully then there is no need of cationic dyefixing treatment at the end of dyeing cycle

Chemical used in reactive dyeing wash off: Core neutralizer for pH, soaping agent
finishing, dispersing agent.

Observation of shrinkage after washing off (CBR wash for reactive dyeing):
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Sample no. EPI PPI GSM Width(cm) Shrinkage(%)

Before After Before After Warp Weft

wash wash wash wash
1 88 38 324 412 190 155 -11 -14

2 111 58 190 201 159 162 -10 2

3 156 76 193 229 170 156 -10 -10

4 124 54 234 317 171 145 -14 -15.5

5 140 96 323 454 154.5 124 -13 -22

2.8 Cold Pad Batch Dyeing (CPB)

There are presently three main processes in use worldwide for continuous dyeing of woven
cellulosic fabrics using reactive dyestuff

1. Pad batch or CPB process,

2. Pad-dry thermo fixing process,
3. E-control process.
The cold pad batch requires the smallest machine range, whilst the other two demand more or
less complex ranges. Cold pad batch dyeing is a more environmentally sound and higher
quality dyeing method for woven and knitted cotton/viscose fibers. The process removes salt
from the effluent, reduces the use of water, energy, reduces the volume of effluent and
occupies less space on the production floor

In cold-batch process, the fabric is padded with a reactive dye in the presence of an alkali,
usually sodium bicarbonate, and is batched on a roll. The rolls are subsequently stored in wet
 20

condition for a prescribed period (2−24 hours) depending on the time required for fixation,
and finally washed off. Covering the rolls with polyethylene sheets during storage is
advantageous to prevent evaporation of water. During storage, the rolls are to be rotated
slowly to prevent drainage of padding liquor and hence stoppage mark. The method is very
popular for application of cold-brand as well as Remazol brand of reactive dyes. The
sequence of cold pad batch dyeing process is shown in fig.1

Schematic diagram of cold pad batch dyeing process

Soda ash (Na2CO3- Sodium carbonate anhydrous), sodium silicate (Na2SiO3) and caustic
soda (NaOH– Sodium hydroxide) may be used depending on the depth of shade dyed.
Because of the high reactivity of the cold brand reactive dyes with these alkalis, a short
fixation time is enough. However, the pad liquor containing the dye and alkali is stable only
for a short time. Hence, the dye and alkali solutions should be prepared separately and mixed
immediately before use.

Fabric Passage through the Machine :

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RFD fabric Batch

Cooling Drums

Guider roller

Expander

Dyeing Trough

Dye padding mangle

Guider and expander roller

Batching on roller

Chemical used in CPB Dyeing:Salt, Alkali(dye fixing agent), Sequestering agent, Anti
creasing agent, Levelling agent, Defoaming agent.

Observation After CPB Dyeing: No significant change in length is observed.

2.9 Stenter Finishing Process

Stenter machine:
A Stenter is a fabric transport device for bringing dimensional stability to the fabric. This
machine grasps fabric at both selvages simultaneously and continuously and carries it from
one point to another. Two endless chains equipped with either clips or pins grasp the selvages
and move in a proper way, carrying the fabric between them. The width between the two
chains can be automatically adjusted by means of motor arrangements. A stenter is the best
method of handling fabrics that require precise width control.

The following activities are carried out in stenter machine:

1. Application of finishing chemicals.
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2. Drying and stretching

3. Curing
4. Heat setting
5. Pigment dyeing

Details of stenter machine:

Inlet J-scray: This part is used to store the fabric during the batch change and Inlet unit
contains various parts like tension device, draw roll, pressure roll and break roll.The
important functions of the above rollers are to feed the fabric evenly throughout the machine.

Padding mangle: It contains chemical trough, guide rollers and squeezing mangle. Fabric is
dipped into the finish chemical then sent to squeezing mangle. During this time finish
chemicals are applied on the fabric and squeezes out extra chemicals from the fabric.

Mahlo device (weft straightener):It has two bow and three skew rollers which correct the
skewness and bowing and make the weft yarns straight.

Over feed system:To give over feed or under feed of the fabric to respective chain track.

Inlet chain track: To aid proper pinning or clipping of the fabric.

Drying chambers: To dry the fabric or to fix the finishing chemicals by hot air from the
blowers. The blower sucks hot air from radiator and blow it into the nozzles through which
drying occurs. Inside the drying chamber also contains width adjustment spindle and pin/clip
chain track. There are 8-10 drying chambers in stenter machine, each having 3 meter in
length

Outlet chain track: To facilitate de-pinning or De-clipping of fabric from pins/clips. And to
give proper cleaning of the pins & clips.

Batching and plaiting unit:To wind the fabric on A-frame or plaiting of finished fabric in a
suitable box/ trolley.

Fabric requirements for stenter finishing:

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ABSORBENCY: 5-6 Seconds

pH of the fabric : 5.5 to 7
Temperature : 40ºC or below

Fig.2 Stenter Machine

Various finishes and their importance:

Soft finish: This finish gives softness, good luster as well as smoothness to fabric.

Resin finish (Crease resistance):This reduces wrinkling tendency of cotton textiles as well
as blends and avoids the necessity of ironing.

Anti-microbial, dust mite finish:This finish inhibits growth of microbes that causes
unpleasant odour & helps textiles to maintain hygienity.
 24

Stain release/soil release finish:This is a easy care finish which induces easy removal of soil
& stains from the fabric during washing.

3. Variation after stentering process

Observation of meter variation in stenter:
Sample no. Length before stenter (m) Length after stenter (m) Changes in length(m)

1 1950 1990 40
2 390 410 20
3 2140 2170 30
4 2165 2185 20
5 2470 2505 35

Observation of shrinkage variation after stenter:

Sample no. EPI PPI GSM Width(cm) Shrinkage(%)

Before After Before After Warp Weft

wash wash wash wash
1 178 94 272 330 151 136 -8.5 -11
2 88 38 318 424 160 133 -14 -17
3 88 38 327 416 155 131 -10.5 -15
4 151 60 304 444 150 120.5 -12 -22
5 108 66 155 169 160 155 -12 -4

3.1 Peach Finish Process

Peach finish machine is the process where the peach fabric becomes smoother. By this
process especially for twill fabric the diagonal line become lowered with the application of
microsand paper or carbon wire brushing.

Types of Peach Finish

There are 3 types of peach finish

 Light
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 Medium
 Heavy

Objective of Peach Finish

 Wide range of brushing effects which can be replicated through time.
 Completely defect-free fabric processing.
 Flexible drawing-in in the various right-back side combinations.
 High production speed.

Flow diagram of peach finish:

Batcher

Upper roller

Drum

Air sucker

Brush roller

Bush chamber

Folding
↓

Delivery

Practical Procedure of Peach Finish Machine

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Fabric inlet of Peach Finish Machine:Mercerized fabric is feed in the inlet section of the
peach finish machine. Here the fabric is passed over some roller & guider to feed into the
brushing zone.

Brushing unit of Peach Finish Machine: It contain 2 to 6 roller according to design. For
microsand brushing each roller contains 24 rollers which move forward & backward with the
same speed of containing roller. In carbon wire type machine all the roller contain carbon
wire which performed brushing. The entire roller can control individually. Here belt pressure
is 2.6 bar & drum pressure is 9 bar, which depend on quality of fabric.

Fabric outlet & batching: After that the fabric become smooth this is rolled on batcher for
washing.

Control Panel of Peach Finish Machine: From control panel all types of instruction can be
provide to the machinery. This machine has a full manual control panel. The operator
controls every process by control switch.

Peach finish machine

3.2 Variation of shrinkage after peach finish

Sample no. EPI PPI GSM Width(cm) Shrinkage(%)

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Before After Before After Warp Weft

wash wash wash wash
1 82 74 333 438 156 131.5 -12.5 -16
2 80 78 338 437 158 132 -12 -16
3 84 72 343 444 156 134 -12 -14
4 80 78 336 467 159 130 -13 -19.5
5 80 78 344 469 158.5 129.5 -13 -20

3.3 Sanforizing/Anti shrinkage finishing process

Sanforizing:
Sanforizing is a controlled compressive shrinkage process, which is applied on woven fabric
to achieve shrinkage before making the garments. After sanforizing the residual shrinkage of
woven fabric may be zero. In sanforizing process shrinkage is achieve by passing the cotton
fabric onto a movable elastic felt blanket is released it assumes a shortened conditional. Thus
the cotton fabric is forced to conform this compression.

Residual Shrinkage:
Residual Shrinkage is the latent shrinkage of a fiber ,Filament, yarn or fabric.

The shrinkage amount of fabric is dependent on:

1. The nature of fibers
2. The character of threads
3. The way of interlacing of thread in the fabric.
4. Crimp in yarn.
5. Cycle of washing no. of washing.

Sanforizing Process:
Sanforizing is a mechanical finishing process of treating textile fabrics to prevent the normal
dimensional alternation of warp and weft. It is also called anti-shrinkage finishing process. It
is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and most textiles made from natural
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or chemical fibres, patented by Sanford Lockwood Cluett (1874–1968) in 1930. It is a

method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width, before
cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after washin

Fig.3 diagram of the sanforizing method of producing shrinkage

Sanforizing process is based on the principle that when a elastic felt blanket is passed around
a metal roller in contact with it, its outer surface is process extended and the inner surface
contracted. So the process is called controlled compressive shrinkage process

There are 4 variables that are critical for shrinkage, fabric defects and elongation
during sanforizing process:

1. Temperature

2. Moisture

3. Quantity of Pressure

4. Time of Pressure

1.Critical Temperature

There are 3 critical temperatures:

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1. The temperature of the steam-heated cylinder which heats the rubber-belt.

 If this temperature is too high or too low, the surface of the rubber-belt is not able to
provide consistent compression.
 Generally, cotton fabrics are processed easily between 105 and 125 degrees C.
 Heavyweight denims which arrive from weaving with 12-15% potential
shrinkage require about 140 degrees.

2. Temperature of the Palmer Unit for drying the denim.

3. Temperature of the fabric as it enters the rubber-belt.

Fabric that is both hot and moist is easier to compress.

 For heavyweight denim, 14% moisture and 80 degrees centrigrade provides adequate

fabric elasticity.
 For the best control, fabric moisture should be controlled by spray and cooling water
at the Sanforizer, followed by heating before the rubber belt.

2.Sanforizing Moisture Control

 A general rule is that for each oz/square yard, 1% moisture should be applied. For

example, for a 10 ounce fabric, 10% moisture.
 Most denim finishing is now on the “integrated range. Moisture is controlled by the
drying cylinders on the finishing machine, then fabric passes directly to the Sanforizer.
 A final moisture of 4-5% is necessary in order to stabilize the fabric compression.
 If the moisture is higher, the fabric will elongate which increases final shrinkage.
 If the moisture is lower, the denim will elongate after absorbing moisture from the air.
 Sanforizers require consistent steam pressure and should be located close to the steam
source.

Separate Sanforizing

 In separate Sanforizing, the denim is dried to about 6% moisture by the dyeing

cylinders on the finishing range.
 Then the fabric is transported to the Sanforizer where the correct amount of moisture
is applied by water sprays and by the cooling water for the rubber belt.
 This system usually provides better control.

3.Pressure (% of Compression )

 Sanforizing is a form of “mechanical shrinkage”.

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 If a fabric has 12% shrinkage with 20 weft yarns/cm and 3% at 22/cm, then 10%
compression by the rubber belt will result in the weft being pushed together which
increases the weft yarns from 20-22/cm and reduces the shrinkage by 10 points.

4.Time Of Compression

 Denim has a very high % of shrinkage as it arrives from weaving up to 15%.

 The heat, moisture and time of pressure determine the control of shrinkage. – The
time of pressure is determined by the speed of Sanforizing.
 Heavy denims should not be Sanforized at more than 35 meters/min. Slower speeds
result in better control.

Conclusion

 Denim finishing is the most difficult of all apparel fabrics.

 Control of fabric quality requires a higher level of control which begins at weaving
 The moisture and temperature must be monitored and controlled at each step.
 Sanforizing is more complicated than it appears and requires the most attention.

3.4 Variation after sanforizing process (final finishing process)

Observation of total meter changes from grey to sanfor morrison:

Sample no. Length in grey (m) Length after sanforizing (m) Change in length(m)

1 2330 2170 -160

2 2410 2080 -330
3 95 80 -15
4 2550 2170 -380
5 1230 1120 -110

Observation of shrinkage variation after sanforizing process:

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Sample no. EPI PPI GSM Width(cm) Shrinkage(%)

Before After Before After Warp Weft

wash wash wash wash
1 166 64 385 428 150 132 0.0 -12.2
2 152 102 340 378 134 119 0.0 -11.7
3 152 102 339 377 135 120 0.0 -12.2
4 92 42 350 402 153 134 -3 -13
5 154 102 342 380 133.5 119 -1 -11.7

3.5 How to control shrinkage

Shrinkage continues to be a serious problem for drycleaners and consumers alike. Any
shrinkage over 2% will alter the fit of most garments and will be especially noticeable to
consumers with tight and formfitting garments. Shrinkage of 5% in trousers with a 35" waist
and a 32" length will reduce the size over 1 1/2".

To be considered serviceable, a consumer's garment should not shrink more than 2%.
Manufacturers use the following processes to control shrinkage (a) Compressive shrinkage
controls are used on fabrics of cotton, linen and some rayon. A fabric is used to compress or
shrink another fabric by heated rollers. Sanforization and Rigmen are trade names for
compressive shrinkage processes used on woven cloth. (b) Heat setting or stabilization is
used on thermoplastic fabrics. The dimensional stability is maintained by subjecting the
fabric or yarn to a predetermined degree of heat, moisture and pressure. (c) A resin or other
coating is applied to a fabric yarn or fiber to stabilize it. Rayon fabrics are frequently
impregnated with sizing agents. Surface coatings are sometimes used to mask the scales of
the wool fiber and reduce its potential to shrink and felt.

3.6 Conclusion: It is an obvious conclusion from the above observation that one single
treatment of the process is not sufficient to reduce the residual shrinkage in the garments to
say levels below that of 5 percent in both width and length and that multiple treatments of
moisturizing and tumbling can reduce the shrinkage levels appreciably. 
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Heat, moisture and mechanical action are the three factors that produce shrinkage. Depending
upon the fiber, one or more of the factors become dominantly critical. For instance,
thermoplastic fibers are more sensitive to heat; natural fibers and rayon are more sensitive to
moisture.There is no practical way to determine in advance whether a fabric will shrink.

Shrinkage may occur in any type of fabric. Shrinkage will occur because of (1) A lack of a
suitable pre-shrinkage treatment, (2) Faulty heat setting (3) Defective sizing agents. There is
no practical way to test a fabric before drycleaning. When drycleaning a garment that may
shrink, shrinkage may be avoided by proper load classification and limiting the use of
moisture, heat and mechanical action.
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